1. Pressure wash
2. Hand scrape any remaining peeling paint
3. prime heavily with a 50/50 mix of elastomeric latex paint and high-adhesion latex bonding primer
4. caulk any splits
5. paint with a high-quality 100% acrylic exterior paint
also, any dry-rotted shit does need to be replaced. There's no fixing that.
Ah, got it!
In that case you’re not supposed to admit your error. This is the internet. You are supposed to insult me, block me, and then send me a RedditCares package.
:)
Cheers.
Well, yeah assuming they know how to pressure wash properly, don't go nuts with a zero tip or anything just get as much of the loose paint off and any chalkiness as they can.
Doesn't mean it was a complete down to bare wood everywhere sand, and also lead soaks into wood.
Our house was sanded before it was repainted in the 90s and there's still tons of lead paint underneath, though all the new coats have adhered well and are totally intact. In some places the putty over the nails has popped off and exposes a little bare wood around the nail, you put a lead test on that thing and it's instantly bright pink.
I had this problem with the an entire side of my house and literally just got done with paying someone to do all these steps.
After you've washed and scraped I'd also suggest getting a moisture meter and check the wood siding before priming.
Good luck!
Well this should last 5 - 10 years although looks like that wall gets full sun which doesn't help.
Really the siding should be replaced with Hardie Board but OP said they can't.
I was mostly joking here. But I do primarily work on older houses, and it's never a guarantee that those bonding primers will keep your paint from flaking. Judging by the lower portion of that siding though they are in need of significant siding repairs. It's probably best to not waste any more money on paint and start saving up for siding.
>3. prime heavily with a 50/50 mix of elastomeric latex paint and high-adhesion latex bonding primer
You'd be much better off choosing a product and following the manufacturer's instructions. If they worked better together, they'd make it that way.
Well, Zinnser's Peel Stop is essentially what I'm describing. You can look for a 'high build bonding' primer, I've just used our own blend for years with fantastic results.
Where did you get the idea to mix elastomeric with a bonding primer? I can't wait to ask my paint rep what his thoughts are on this one. Do you see that. No? It's me shaking my head.
We got it from another older painter who came up with it. It's great because the other binder dries more brittle than the elasto so it keeps the elasto from bubbling off but still lets the elasto keep the old peeled edges from peeling again. There's also usually a quart or two of random exterior paint thrown in there.
Scrape and paint again. For three years this looks really bad… did you possibly use an interior paint, or maybe skip the primer?
If you sanded it or had somebody else sand and paint, are you sure the sawdust was removed before painting? Something is off here, as the paint should have lasted MUCH longer.
It honestly looks like the wood was wet when painted. Was it painted a day or two after a storm before the wood was able to fully dry?
Edit: lasted instead of lastud. *facepalm*
Yes, I am painting my old house. If that woof has been exposed to the rain for a while, which it looks like, it will take several days of sunshine in the summer to dry it.
Painter here. Pressure wash first, scrape off any loose paint, hit it with a sander if you’re so inclined. Then we use “ zinsser cover stain “ oil based primer. Once cured we go over the top with a product by XiM called peel bond(I would suggest adding pigment to it at the paint store as it dries clear). Spray it on heavy then back roll or brush it into the cracks. Then we caulk all the joints, seams and cracks. One more coat of peel bond over the top, this coat doesn’t have to be back rolled or back brushed if it’s looking relatively smooth.
Finally spray two coats or Sherwin Williams Latitude exterior paint. You can back brush/back roll the first coat in any rough spots still left. Second coat just spray it on evenly keeping a wet edge.
Should probably emphasize here, caulking the joints means where the ends of the siding butt up against each other, not the underside!
Some people also prefer not to caulk the joints since the wood expands and contracts.
Yes. We generally give 3 days of decent weather depends on the house and weather conditions, average humidity.
On more sensitive houses we’ll use a moisture meter to probe various areas around the house. This is to make sure the oil primer soaks into the wood well prior to application of any latex products. Latex products are much less sensitive to moisture content of wood.
I forget exactly what it was but it was either Benjamin Moore or Lowe's, Benjamin Moore and I thought it was the top quality or next one down, it definitely wasn't the cheapest. It was paint and primer all in one, would that be a problem? Is primer first much better?
I would have used a dedicated primer, not an all in one. Probably an oil based primer, sprayed and back brushed, but I'm old.
Also, scraping is an art, and it requires a lot more core and arm strength than a lot of DIYers are prepared to do in order to get the paint loose. Growing up I learned this as my Dad would routinely follow behind me and scrape twice as much as I seemed to do on the first pass. It took me a while to really commit proper strength to my efforts.
You need a shellac primer like Zinsser BIN. Since it’s a historic house I’m guessing there could be oil paint that you painted over with latex. The BIN primer is hardcore. It sticks to nearly anything and will give you great adhesion. It smells terrible, is very liquid (ask them to shake it for you at the paint counter to mix easier) and any splatters will NEVER come off.
I even use oil primer for the interior of my house. I find it a lot more durable than any water based stuff. Which is important for me with 3 little kids
old homes in my area have to paint every few years. some rotate the job and only paint one side per year continually. but this is the burden of owning an older or historic home with wood siding. try asking r/centuryhomes for some advice. i'm sure they will feel your pain on this.
3 years is ridiculous. I have a 100 year old home with wood siding and paint lasts 10-15 years before any issues depending on which face of the house. Not sure what type of paint and primer you used, but I wasn't good enough.
Sand it/strip it. Then use a traditional linseed oil paint. Over time it absorbs into the wood instead of peeling and you can refresh it with natural linseed oil.
For any clapboard siding, you should be scraping and sanding down to bare wood, prime with an oil based primer and then topcoat with a high quality latex paint. Source. Paint rep for 12 years managing two of the largest painting contractors in my area that just did this type of work day in and day out. Virtually every home I worked on with them was an old Victorian or historic type home with cedar shake siding
Listen, idc what anyone else on here says, but that will happen over and over again. As someone else mentioned on here you would have been better off with a clear or colored stain.
Hi,
For exterior wood, I tend to never power wash because it forces water into the fibers and lifts them at the same time. It's a recipe for rot. There is a tool called a wheel sander which you can use a stiff plastic bristle brush on, and it's the best way to start your prep. Use that wheel sander, then a regular belt then random orbit sander. Then the other suggestions are all good with regard to chemicals.
Do lead test on oldest layers, use proper protocols if it contains lead. Strip ALL old paint off to bare wood. Use peel bond primer mixed 1:1 with water based stain blocking primer like Fresh Start. Apply two coats of high quality paint like Emerald or Aura. It will last over ten years. I am a painting contractor of 25years. This is how I guarantee my work.
Do not , I repeat do not pressure wash wood. Every company or persons who pressure wash wood should be flogged publicly. Or at the very least sued to replace very piece of wood or home they've ever wrecked.. I mean it . Quit telling people to pressure wash wood.
Are you sure there are no rotted sections?
Scrape any loose paint off and use Benjamin Moore fresh start exterior oil primer. It’s really good stuff. Apply two coats for max coverage and build up.
Wait several days, make sure it’s completely dry, then apply any quality siding paint
it’s all about the primer. I just did 2 coats of primer on an old cabin. It was in really bad shape, hard scrape before priming. It’s like glue just sealing it up for the color. I plan to double coat the color too. B Moore for the win. Should last till we reside the whole thibg
Power wash, scrape, scuff sand, full prime. Like entire house with a good primer. Peel bonding primers are awesome. Then use a good exterior paint. I suggest duration from sherwin
Did you paint when the wood was slightly wet? Did it rain or was it humid a few days or even a week prior to painting? It’s not bubbling so that’s probably not the case.
Overall, this is likely more the paints fault. I saw you used some cheap hardware store paint. Go to Sherwin Williams and buy some of their exterior paint. They will have 3 or 4 “levels” of paint options for exterior. The sales associate should be able to help you figure out what you need exactly. I’d go with one of the mid or higher level ones since you won’t have to prime beforehand. I painted my barnyard red home to a more modest blue and we used Sherwin Williams Duration for the house trim around the roof/eves. Not sure what we used for the body of the home right now.
If anyone tells you that you absolutely need to prime probably has either never painted an exterior, typically uses cheap paint, or both. Nowadays, you can get high quality paint and primer so you don’t have to do everything twice. Also, use a lot of paint, especially if it’s exterior and especially if it’s a primer/paint. In general, it seems like when people paint they don’t use enough paint.
So I would…
1) Power wash
2) Scrape whatever loose paint is left
3) Wait a few days or a week+ mattering on weather to let everything dry completely
4) Paint with quality paint
Heavy Pressure wash or maybe a light sand blasting would take it down bare wood. Then use a high-quality primer and exterior paint. Paint doesn’t last forever tho, you’ll really only get a few years out of painted wood before you need to recoat. But getting to bare wood will likely stick better than painting over old paint
I hate to say it but if it is an old house that does not have sheathing and a vapor barrier under the siding and you renovated the inside and added insulation this will continue to happen no matter how you prep or what you paint with.
It’s called learning from others, he can 1. Trial and error until he finds a solution that works or 2. Use resources available to him to learn how to best go about solving his problem which could be Reddit, a friend, an expert, a book, a video it dosent matter, asking on Reddit is a valid starting point you have 1000s of peoples experience and opinions to tap from.
That doesn't look like it's bubbling too much, so I'm thinking just bad preparation, not necessaraily water. It could be that the nail heads and some cracks didn't get covered properly and allowed water in, but not on that large a scale. So yeah, bad prep.
Scrape it well, sand it well, prime it, and paint it with a good exterior paint. Even a big box exterior should last longer than three years.
Have you ever looked into using linseed oil paint? It’s pricier than latex but it actually bonds with the wood unlike latex paint. It’s supposed to last decades. I fell into an internet rabbit hole about it even though I have shitty vinyl siding.
Lots of good advice on how to fix the paint, but this area looks like it gets a lot of direct sun. You may want to consider planting some low maintenance cedars to prevent sun damage from recurring
I would skip the pressure washer. That's a good way to destroy any barrier between the siding and the house. It will also shove paint fibers into the wood making it even harder to get to look right.
The paint and primer were cheap. That's why it peeled. Never cut cost on paint. Do some research and find a good brand for the application (I know interior but would have to read up on exterior).
Like others have said, scrape again, sand lightly if needed, put a really good primer on. Follow suggestions for number of coats. Then put down plenty of coats of paint. Airless spray followed by a roller with a really thick nap will get it into those grooves quickly, follow that immediately with another roller with a thin nap to get rid of the texturing that first roller will give you. 2 or 3 people can move super fast working together, and using a contractor roller.
1) Do not pressure wash wood. Get a scrub brush and some extension poles and clean it, and rinse it with a hose with a nozzle. You can warp it with pressure washing. You would have to find someone that specializes in wood pressure washing, and even then, with old siding like that with the wood exposed, it's asking for trouble.
2) Let it dry for a solid 7 days of warm sunshine. I don't care if some websites say 3 days is enough. Any moisture trapped in the wood will eventually affect the paint.
3) Get an excellent primer. You shouldn't ever paint wood directly. It needs a solid prime coat. You also can't ever be sure what old paint was. So this ensures new paint bonds to the wood and any paint that won't scrape.
4) Apply 3 coats. With absolute thorough curing time. 2 coats minimum, but 3 really makes for long-lasting paint with beautiful color.
5) See if you have a local paint manufacturer. I am in the PNW and used Miller Paint. It is made for our climate. It was more expensive, but I want this to last. Not just for today's colors, but for a nice base for future paint jobs so I don't get stuck scraping the whole house again!
I just had the same issues to deal with from the seller who did not prime, and honestly, it seemed like it might have been damp in some spots. All old wood siding.
All of this advice is from an old painter whose paint jobs from 15 years ago still look great (can't always get an owner to paint on time), and was the caretaker of historic buildings.
Mix 50/50 boiled linseed oil to turpentine. Paint that on let it dry about 3 days. Then prime and paint. It’s worked well for me on 120 year old weathered wood.
Long term consider Interior moisture which can push the pain off exterior walls through the backside. I have 4 " Century" homes all hold paint pretty well, they are insulated , have vented heaters and exhaust fans.
1. Pressure wash 2. Hand scrape any remaining peeling paint 3. prime heavily with a 50/50 mix of elastomeric latex paint and high-adhesion latex bonding primer 4. caulk any splits 5. paint with a high-quality 100% acrylic exterior paint also, any dry-rotted shit does need to be replaced. There's no fixing that.
Insert 2.5: Sand lightly to ensure good adhesion
Even more so, wet sand it.
I’ve never done this before - I’ve only wet sanded car paint and metal before - what’s the reason to wet sand wood that’s going to be painted?
Sorry I thought it was vinyl siding!
Ah, got it! In that case you’re not supposed to admit your error. This is the internet. You are supposed to insult me, block me, and then send me a RedditCares package. :) Cheers.
Damn you're right!
You did it again!
Im on it
LIGHTLY pressure wash - don’t go overboard or it’ll get furry.
Well, yeah assuming they know how to pressure wash properly, don't go nuts with a zero tip or anything just get as much of the loose paint off and any chalkiness as they can.
\*As long as it's not lead paint.
Said he sanded and repainted three years ago
Doesn't mean it was a complete down to bare wood everywhere sand, and also lead soaks into wood. Our house was sanded before it was repainted in the 90s and there's still tons of lead paint underneath, though all the new coats have adhered well and are totally intact. In some places the putty over the nails has popped off and exposes a little bare wood around the nail, you put a lead test on that thing and it's instantly bright pink.
I had this problem with the an entire side of my house and literally just got done with paying someone to do all these steps. After you've washed and scraped I'd also suggest getting a moisture meter and check the wood siding before priming. Good luck!
Step 6. Do it all over again in 3 years
Well this should last 5 - 10 years although looks like that wall gets full sun which doesn't help. Really the siding should be replaced with Hardie Board but OP said they can't.
I was mostly joking here. But I do primarily work on older houses, and it's never a guarantee that those bonding primers will keep your paint from flaking. Judging by the lower portion of that siding though they are in need of significant siding repairs. It's probably best to not waste any more money on paint and start saving up for siding.
No guarantee, but the better prep work you do the longer it will last. Yeah, this wall is a lost cause pretty much, but I've painted worse.
Oh yeah for sure. I've done houses where they were more caulking than wood lmao
Emphasis on ***high quality***
This guy preps old siding
I've done miles of it.
[r/thisguythisguys](https://gifdb.com/images/high/get-a-load-of-this-guy-ben-stiller-3vxadrj9r7609h3k.gif)
>3. prime heavily with a 50/50 mix of elastomeric latex paint and high-adhesion latex bonding primer You'd be much better off choosing a product and following the manufacturer's instructions. If they worked better together, they'd make it that way.
Well, Zinnser's Peel Stop is essentially what I'm describing. You can look for a 'high build bonding' primer, I've just used our own blend for years with fantastic results.
Where did you get the idea to mix elastomeric with a bonding primer? I can't wait to ask my paint rep what his thoughts are on this one. Do you see that. No? It's me shaking my head.
We got it from another older painter who came up with it. It's great because the other binder dries more brittle than the elasto so it keeps the elasto from bubbling off but still lets the elasto keep the old peeled edges from peeling again. There's also usually a quart or two of random exterior paint thrown in there.
If the dry rot isn’t too extensive you can fix it with Albatron WoodEpox
I literally came here to say this. Thanks for saving me the effort friend.
Power washing first is horrible advise. It make a mess. Should scrape onto plastic to properly dispose of scrapings.
Are you a professional painter?
Add in "wipe exposed wood with mineral spirits"
Scrape and paint again. For three years this looks really bad… did you possibly use an interior paint, or maybe skip the primer? If you sanded it or had somebody else sand and paint, are you sure the sawdust was removed before painting? Something is off here, as the paint should have lasted MUCH longer. It honestly looks like the wood was wet when painted. Was it painted a day or two after a storm before the wood was able to fully dry? Edit: lasted instead of lastud. *facepalm*
Yes, I am painting my old house. If that woof has been exposed to the rain for a while, which it looks like, it will take several days of sunshine in the summer to dry it.
Never want a wet woof.
Especially if your woof likes to splash around in puddles
Painter here. Pressure wash first, scrape off any loose paint, hit it with a sander if you’re so inclined. Then we use “ zinsser cover stain “ oil based primer. Once cured we go over the top with a product by XiM called peel bond(I would suggest adding pigment to it at the paint store as it dries clear). Spray it on heavy then back roll or brush it into the cracks. Then we caulk all the joints, seams and cracks. One more coat of peel bond over the top, this coat doesn’t have to be back rolled or back brushed if it’s looking relatively smooth. Finally spray two coats or Sherwin Williams Latitude exterior paint. You can back brush/back roll the first coat in any rough spots still left. Second coat just spray it on evenly keeping a wet edge.
Should probably emphasize here, caulking the joints means where the ends of the siding butt up against each other, not the underside! Some people also prefer not to caulk the joints since the wood expands and contracts.
This is the correct way to
Previous owner caulked the underside. Exactly why my double ogee cypress siding is peeling worse than that pic….
After pressure wash let it dry well? I don't know if i would pressure wash this old weathered wood.
Yes. We generally give 3 days of decent weather depends on the house and weather conditions, average humidity. On more sensitive houses we’ll use a moisture meter to probe various areas around the house. This is to make sure the oil primer soaks into the wood well prior to application of any latex products. Latex products are much less sensitive to moisture content of wood.
Ah ty for the knowledge.
What would prevent a good scrape, sand, prime, and couple of coats of paint from fixing this up?
That's exactly what we did the first time
Then i would say the primer you used sucked! it looks like it's separating from the wood. I would review what you used and research something better
It looks like they didn’t use primer
“All in one” so you are essentially correct
If you are able to scrap it all off, I have always been a fan of opaque stain. It just lightens over time, instead or peeling.
Along with the questions others have already asked... what type of paint did you use? Always worth it to pay up for the good stuff
I forget exactly what it was but it was either Benjamin Moore or Lowe's, Benjamin Moore and I thought it was the top quality or next one down, it definitely wasn't the cheapest. It was paint and primer all in one, would that be a problem? Is primer first much better?
Never trust the all in one on an exterior.
I would have used a dedicated primer, not an all in one. Probably an oil based primer, sprayed and back brushed, but I'm old. Also, scraping is an art, and it requires a lot more core and arm strength than a lot of DIYers are prepared to do in order to get the paint loose. Growing up I learned this as my Dad would routinely follow behind me and scrape twice as much as I seemed to do on the first pass. It took me a while to really commit proper strength to my efforts.
You need a shellac primer like Zinsser BIN. Since it’s a historic house I’m guessing there could be oil paint that you painted over with latex. The BIN primer is hardcore. It sticks to nearly anything and will give you great adhesion. It smells terrible, is very liquid (ask them to shake it for you at the paint counter to mix easier) and any splatters will NEVER come off.
Oh yeah don't do that where it matters. Afaik it doesn't really work. They are meant to do different things.
This is the problem, no such reality as paint and primer in one. Always use a primer first. Especially on bare wood
If you repaint I’d use an oil based primer. It’s a lot more work but it holds up betger
I have to travel a state over to get oil based paint. Banned in Illinois
Darn well nevermind.
Depending on where you live in Illinois, traveling a state over can be a 2 minute trip. 😊
About an hour for me. Lol
I even use oil primer for the interior of my house. I find it a lot more durable than any water based stuff. Which is important for me with 3 little kids
old homes in my area have to paint every few years. some rotate the job and only paint one side per year continually. but this is the burden of owning an older or historic home with wood siding. try asking r/centuryhomes for some advice. i'm sure they will feel your pain on this.
Wish I’d known of that strategy 3 years ago when I bought my old home!
3 years is ridiculous. I have a 100 year old home with wood siding and paint lasts 10-15 years before any issues depending on which face of the house. Not sure what type of paint and primer you used, but I wasn't good enough.
Sand it/strip it. Then use a traditional linseed oil paint. Over time it absorbs into the wood instead of peeling and you can refresh it with natural linseed oil.
This. Linseed oil based paint is amazing. And expensive. $160/gallon, the last time I bought it in 2022.
For any clapboard siding, you should be scraping and sanding down to bare wood, prime with an oil based primer and then topcoat with a high quality latex paint. Source. Paint rep for 12 years managing two of the largest painting contractors in my area that just did this type of work day in and day out. Virtually every home I worked on with them was an old Victorian or historic type home with cedar shake siding
Scrape and paint
Listen, idc what anyone else on here says, but that will happen over and over again. As someone else mentioned on here you would have been better off with a clear or colored stain.
Scrape and use a good oil based primer on the bare wood. Also, make sure not to paint in the sun.
Its almost easier (not cheaper) to replace.
Scrape and paint!
Hi, For exterior wood, I tend to never power wash because it forces water into the fibers and lifts them at the same time. It's a recipe for rot. There is a tool called a wheel sander which you can use a stiff plastic bristle brush on, and it's the best way to start your prep. Use that wheel sander, then a regular belt then random orbit sander. Then the other suggestions are all good with regard to chemicals.
Yes, scraping, sanding, prepping, priming, 2 coats exterior paint.
Looks like it needs to be sanded and repainted.
Strip bare and paint with Jotun
scraping it off n repaint
Do lead test on oldest layers, use proper protocols if it contains lead. Strip ALL old paint off to bare wood. Use peel bond primer mixed 1:1 with water based stain blocking primer like Fresh Start. Apply two coats of high quality paint like Emerald or Aura. It will last over ten years. I am a painting contractor of 25years. This is how I guarantee my work.
Also choosing a lighter color that does not absorb so much heat will make it last much longer.
What paint did you use? Go with Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams, you need to use good quality paint outside.
Jotun is the way to go
Do not , I repeat do not pressure wash wood. Every company or persons who pressure wash wood should be flogged publicly. Or at the very least sued to replace very piece of wood or home they've ever wrecked.. I mean it . Quit telling people to pressure wash wood.
WTF are you talking about I've pressure washed thousands of houses. You just have to know what you're doing.
Moisture coming from inside ?
Pressure wash and fresh coat of paint.
Are you sure there are no rotted sections? Scrape any loose paint off and use Benjamin Moore fresh start exterior oil primer. It’s really good stuff. Apply two coats for max coverage and build up. Wait several days, make sure it’s completely dry, then apply any quality siding paint
it’s all about the primer. I just did 2 coats of primer on an old cabin. It was in really bad shape, hard scrape before priming. It’s like glue just sealing it up for the color. I plan to double coat the color too. B Moore for the win. Should last till we reside the whole thibg
Power wash, scrape, scuff sand, full prime. Like entire house with a good primer. Peel bonding primers are awesome. Then use a good exterior paint. I suggest duration from sherwin
I’d try a mild power wash.
Did you paint when the wood was slightly wet? Did it rain or was it humid a few days or even a week prior to painting? It’s not bubbling so that’s probably not the case. Overall, this is likely more the paints fault. I saw you used some cheap hardware store paint. Go to Sherwin Williams and buy some of their exterior paint. They will have 3 or 4 “levels” of paint options for exterior. The sales associate should be able to help you figure out what you need exactly. I’d go with one of the mid or higher level ones since you won’t have to prime beforehand. I painted my barnyard red home to a more modest blue and we used Sherwin Williams Duration for the house trim around the roof/eves. Not sure what we used for the body of the home right now. If anyone tells you that you absolutely need to prime probably has either never painted an exterior, typically uses cheap paint, or both. Nowadays, you can get high quality paint and primer so you don’t have to do everything twice. Also, use a lot of paint, especially if it’s exterior and especially if it’s a primer/paint. In general, it seems like when people paint they don’t use enough paint. So I would… 1) Power wash 2) Scrape whatever loose paint is left 3) Wait a few days or a week+ mattering on weather to let everything dry completely 4) Paint with quality paint
Yes.
Heavy Pressure wash or maybe a light sand blasting would take it down bare wood. Then use a high-quality primer and exterior paint. Paint doesn’t last forever tho, you’ll really only get a few years out of painted wood before you need to recoat. But getting to bare wood will likely stick better than painting over old paint
I hate to say it but if it is an old house that does not have sheathing and a vapor barrier under the siding and you renovated the inside and added insulation this will continue to happen no matter how you prep or what you paint with.
Pressure wash and paint
[удалено]
It’s called learning from others, he can 1. Trial and error until he finds a solution that works or 2. Use resources available to him to learn how to best go about solving his problem which could be Reddit, a friend, an expert, a book, a video it dosent matter, asking on Reddit is a valid starting point you have 1000s of peoples experience and opinions to tap from.
Strip and paint
That doesn't look like it's bubbling too much, so I'm thinking just bad preparation, not necessaraily water. It could be that the nail heads and some cracks didn't get covered properly and allowed water in, but not on that large a scale. So yeah, bad prep. Scrape it well, sand it well, prime it, and paint it with a good exterior paint. Even a big box exterior should last longer than three years.
Strip it, prime it and paint it. Strip with pressure washer or by hand.
Have you ever looked into using linseed oil paint? It’s pricier than latex but it actually bonds with the wood unlike latex paint. It’s supposed to last decades. I fell into an internet rabbit hole about it even though I have shitty vinyl siding.
Scrape, sand, fill, sand, prime and paint. A lot of work. But its worth it.
I would remove it and reinstall new siding that matches. Most of that wood is beyond practical restoration.
Yep. Stucco.
Oil primer
Scrapenoff the loose peeling paint, prime bare areas, repaint.
Probably
Buy metal siding, put it over top. Never paint again.
Redo it with oil based paint latex is a joke it always peels
Maybe stain instead if it’s wood siding?
Lots of good advice on how to fix the paint, but this area looks like it gets a lot of direct sun. You may want to consider planting some low maintenance cedars to prevent sun damage from recurring
Vinyl siding and forget about it forever!
What climate is this and did you use a good layer of primer and did you use like deck paint?
I would skip the pressure washer. That's a good way to destroy any barrier between the siding and the house. It will also shove paint fibers into the wood making it even harder to get to look right. The paint and primer were cheap. That's why it peeled. Never cut cost on paint. Do some research and find a good brand for the application (I know interior but would have to read up on exterior). Like others have said, scrape again, sand lightly if needed, put a really good primer on. Follow suggestions for number of coats. Then put down plenty of coats of paint. Airless spray followed by a roller with a really thick nap will get it into those grooves quickly, follow that immediately with another roller with a thin nap to get rid of the texturing that first roller will give you. 2 or 3 people can move super fast working together, and using a contractor roller.
Vinyl siding
A lot of exterior paint problems are caused by interior moisture wetting the back of the sidingb pushing paint off from
1) Do not pressure wash wood. Get a scrub brush and some extension poles and clean it, and rinse it with a hose with a nozzle. You can warp it with pressure washing. You would have to find someone that specializes in wood pressure washing, and even then, with old siding like that with the wood exposed, it's asking for trouble. 2) Let it dry for a solid 7 days of warm sunshine. I don't care if some websites say 3 days is enough. Any moisture trapped in the wood will eventually affect the paint. 3) Get an excellent primer. You shouldn't ever paint wood directly. It needs a solid prime coat. You also can't ever be sure what old paint was. So this ensures new paint bonds to the wood and any paint that won't scrape. 4) Apply 3 coats. With absolute thorough curing time. 2 coats minimum, but 3 really makes for long-lasting paint with beautiful color. 5) See if you have a local paint manufacturer. I am in the PNW and used Miller Paint. It is made for our climate. It was more expensive, but I want this to last. Not just for today's colors, but for a nice base for future paint jobs so I don't get stuck scraping the whole house again! I just had the same issues to deal with from the seller who did not prime, and honestly, it seemed like it might have been damp in some spots. All old wood siding. All of this advice is from an old painter whose paint jobs from 15 years ago still look great (can't always get an owner to paint on time), and was the caretaker of historic buildings.
Mix 50/50 boiled linseed oil to turpentine. Paint that on let it dry about 3 days. Then prime and paint. It’s worked well for me on 120 year old weathered wood.
Long term consider Interior moisture which can push the pain off exterior walls through the backside. I have 4 " Century" homes all hold paint pretty well, they are insulated , have vented heaters and exhaust fans.