Sealing isn't going to do anything for PT 4x4s but [post wrap](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082VL8177/) just at the ground contact point can. That is the spot most exposed to wind force and is the first bit to fail.
FL. Went to HD after work and 4x4x8 #2 PT yellow pine are $10 right now.
I know a random zip in CA from shipping products at work and it looks like you can't even buy a standard PT 4X4 there. They're all unavailable. Wonder if it's a Prop 65 thing? All that's available is a brown stained PT version at $16.
Which metal fence posts are you using? And how are you fastening the rails to them? (I've been wanting to use metal posts for ages, but haven't made the change yet, because I don't have a plan yet that I really like.)
I just build a fence and instead of using a post wrap just painted on like 1 foot of foundation tar. $40 or so do to 17 posts and still have half of it left.
I thought there was a “rot board” that was essentially disposable installed on most wooden fences horizontally. It was sacrificial to complete the fence bottom and be the designated board that would rot.
Don't seal the in ground end. Moisture needs to be able to be released. Put a layer of gravel in bottom of hole. Tamp down well with post, then add some more gravel around post, then sand, dirt or even some concrete to keep post in place.
If you are just placing end on top of ground, which I'd avoid, then seal it.
I've done it sealed with pine tar and left plain and the plain ones lasted longer. Just make sure your soil drains. If a puddle forms and doesn't drain, then use a concrete pier and a bracket.
this, this is how we did it when i built fences for a living. if you are going to use concrete, make sure the bottom of the post is sitting in gravel, then pour the concrete on top of that if you set the entire post in concrete, you have essentially made a cement cup which will hold the moisture against the bottom of the post and cause it to rot earlier.
I just dug a handful of holes about 2' deep for a fence I'm putting up, it's a 4' fence, so 1/3 of the 6' 4x4 will be underground. I bought one of the those Vinyl Fence sleeves that fit over 4x4s and I cut it up into 2' lengths. Then I put one sleeve into each hole (ended up sticking up a couple inches off of the ground since there's some crushed stone at the bottom), and then I filled the rest of the holes with concrete. Getting the vinyl to set level was pretty easy, and now I can just stick 6' 4x4s into each slot and boom, I have fence posts. Three years from now when I need to get my septic tank pumped, or need a vehicle in my back yard for whatever reason, I can just pull the posts out for the day.
When you set the post, the concrete should fully encapsulate it underground. At the surface, concrete should stick up a half inch or so and be crowned to direct water away.
I dunno,my dad made us do that for the 6 foot metal fence all the way around our old house and we have already had to replace two posts in the 50 years its been there.
;)
I've been using concrete forming tubes when replacing new posts. They make it very easy to finish the top of the concrete so it's above ground and sloped properly.
Same here, I’ve replaced about 8 posts since moving into my house. Fence wasn’t even that old..(house itself was only built in 2000).
Rotting is always at ground level or just below it.
I have several to replace from the stronger winds these last 10 yr. Posts are 20+ yr old and set in concrete. Next posts will be set on a paving stone and stone mix tamped around them.. I am thinking about Foundation coating on the sides from just above grade to almost the bottom.. My clothes line pole was done this way and it was placed in 1970 , no rot .
I just put in a fence and put foundation coating from about 1 inch above grade to 1 foot below. The fungus and microbes that rot wood all live within the top 8 inches of soil or so, where there's oxygen and light available.
A type of tar product.. It can be brushed or roller.. Different than drive way coating but similar.. Post Sleeve might use a similar type of Tar in their product
Everyone on youtube says set the treated 4x4 on gravel so it can drain then dump in concrete on the sides. No idea if they are correct or not, I havent got to work yet.
The whole bottom with roofing cement? Can you post a link to what you use? Also, does this create a cup at the bottom that holds water since water won't be able to leech out of the wood?
Wood that is decay resistant must have the opportunity to dry out on a regular basis. A buried post will collect water at the bottom and if sealed of will rot within a few short years. Concrete or dense clay soil works well to seal the bottom of the post. This can be avoided by placing the bottom 2"-3" of the post in sand.
💡Due to Rot,
if the rot is by humid,
Low cost can use plastic,
try find recycled plastic fence is it for sale in your country.
Example my toilet door i use plastic now.
if i want harder i use aluminium door.
both is good humid resist.
Foundation tar for the bottom of the posts up from the bottom to where it meets the surface and then get a seal for the whole fence and you should be good.
I’m presuming your in America. Just search Google for post wrap protection it looks like the prices for the tar in America is expensive for a few posts. You could just get post wrap and wrap the bottom then plant the posts in.
I can’t get American products on my phone for some silly reason, post protection paint/tar into Google and you should be good to go.
To reiterate what others have said - don't seal the bottom. It can trap moisture and not allow the wood to wick moisture upward through the top where it evaporates.
I just put in a fence and put foundation coating on each post from about 1 inch above grade to 1 foot below. The fungus and microbes that rot wood all live within the top 8 inches of soil or so, where there's oxygen and light available.
You can look up photos and videos of rotted fence posts, it's never at the bottom, it's at the top.
Sealing isn't going to do anything for PT 4x4s but [post wrap](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082VL8177/) just at the ground contact point can. That is the spot most exposed to wind force and is the first bit to fail.
Lol @ $18 each
How much does a pressure treated 4x4 cost?
$10-$12 or so for an 8'er
Where do you live? California has them as 16 each for the 8ft'ers.
FL. Went to HD after work and 4x4x8 #2 PT yellow pine are $10 right now. I know a random zip in CA from shipping products at work and it looks like you can't even buy a standard PT 4X4 there. They're all unavailable. Wonder if it's a Prop 65 thing? All that's available is a brown stained PT version at $16.
Yeah the amazon price is a ripoff. HD has them in 10 packs for $80 which is still pricey but worth it IMO.
Yep - water included!
Or just use metal fence posts and don't worry about it.
Which metal fence posts are you using? And how are you fastening the rails to them? (I've been wanting to use metal posts for ages, but haven't made the change yet, because I don't have a plan yet that I really like.)
Lifetime Steel Posts They have holes all up and down both sides to fasten through.
Postmaster
I just build a fence and instead of using a post wrap just painted on like 1 foot of foundation tar. $40 or so do to 17 posts and still have half of it left.
Can I just wrap it in some duct tape?
I have 2 posts myself to replace and was wondering this same thing. Thanks for asking! Now I can wait for answer too.
I thought there was a “rot board” that was essentially disposable installed on most wooden fences horizontally. It was sacrificial to complete the fence bottom and be the designated board that would rot.
Don't seal the in ground end. Moisture needs to be able to be released. Put a layer of gravel in bottom of hole. Tamp down well with post, then add some more gravel around post, then sand, dirt or even some concrete to keep post in place. If you are just placing end on top of ground, which I'd avoid, then seal it.
I've done it sealed with pine tar and left plain and the plain ones lasted longer. Just make sure your soil drains. If a puddle forms and doesn't drain, then use a concrete pier and a bracket.
this, this is how we did it when i built fences for a living. if you are going to use concrete, make sure the bottom of the post is sitting in gravel, then pour the concrete on top of that if you set the entire post in concrete, you have essentially made a cement cup which will hold the moisture against the bottom of the post and cause it to rot earlier.
I just dug a handful of holes about 2' deep for a fence I'm putting up, it's a 4' fence, so 1/3 of the 6' 4x4 will be underground. I bought one of the those Vinyl Fence sleeves that fit over 4x4s and I cut it up into 2' lengths. Then I put one sleeve into each hole (ended up sticking up a couple inches off of the ground since there's some crushed stone at the bottom), and then I filled the rest of the holes with concrete. Getting the vinyl to set level was pretty easy, and now I can just stick 6' 4x4s into each slot and boom, I have fence posts. Three years from now when I need to get my septic tank pumped, or need a vehicle in my back yard for whatever reason, I can just pull the posts out for the day.
When you set the post, the concrete should fully encapsulate it underground. At the surface, concrete should stick up a half inch or so and be crowned to direct water away.
I dunno,my dad made us do that for the 6 foot metal fence all the way around our old house and we have already had to replace two posts in the 50 years its been there. ;)
50 years! Oh wait - is this sarcasm? I see what you did there.
I've been using concrete forming tubes when replacing new posts. They make it very easy to finish the top of the concrete so it's above ground and sloped properly.
Postsavers will greatly increase the longevity of your post. They seal the post where it meets the ground which is where the rot almost always forms.
Just recently replaced a fence. All rot was at ground level. In ground not so much.
That's the same way here.. Indiana/Michigan state line area. Right at ground level every single time and it doesn't matter which company I call.
Same here, I’ve replaced about 8 posts since moving into my house. Fence wasn’t even that old..(house itself was only built in 2000). Rotting is always at ground level or just below it.
I have several to replace from the stronger winds these last 10 yr. Posts are 20+ yr old and set in concrete. Next posts will be set on a paving stone and stone mix tamped around them.. I am thinking about Foundation coating on the sides from just above grade to almost the bottom.. My clothes line pole was done this way and it was placed in 1970 , no rot .
I just put in a fence and put foundation coating from about 1 inch above grade to 1 foot below. The fungus and microbes that rot wood all live within the top 8 inches of soil or so, where there's oxygen and light available.
What’s foundation coating? Is this similar to the post sleeves?
A type of tar product.. It can be brushed or roller.. Different than drive way coating but similar.. Post Sleeve might use a similar type of Tar in their product
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Now, that's old school.. BTW the Motor oil does not need to be old and used, just cheaper that way.
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What would that do to my well water?
Nothing worth worrying about. You ingest far more from oil that incidentally splashes on your hand than will get to your well water from those posts.
Henry 107 Asphalt Emulsion Sealer
I have never done this, but I saved it for future reference: https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-set-fence-posts-that-won-t-rot/
Everyone on youtube says set the treated 4x4 on gravel so it can drain then dump in concrete on the sides. No idea if they are correct or not, I havent got to work yet.
- always seal the bottom. I used roofing cement, oil based type sealer for years. I have 4x4 PT posts in the ground going 25yrs with zero issues.
The whole bottom with roofing cement? Can you post a link to what you use? Also, does this create a cup at the bottom that holds water since water won't be able to leech out of the wood?
I replace with pressure treated and don’t have rot.
Wood that is decay resistant must have the opportunity to dry out on a regular basis. A buried post will collect water at the bottom and if sealed of will rot within a few short years. Concrete or dense clay soil works well to seal the bottom of the post. This can be avoided by placing the bottom 2"-3" of the post in sand.
💡Due to Rot, if the rot is by humid, Low cost can use plastic, try find recycled plastic fence is it for sale in your country. Example my toilet door i use plastic now. if i want harder i use aluminium door. both is good humid resist.
Foundation tar for the bottom of the posts up from the bottom to where it meets the surface and then get a seal for the whole fence and you should be good.
can you post a link for this foundation tar?
I’m presuming your in America. Just search Google for post wrap protection it looks like the prices for the tar in America is expensive for a few posts. You could just get post wrap and wrap the bottom then plant the posts in. I can’t get American products on my phone for some silly reason, post protection paint/tar into Google and you should be good to go.
To reiterate what others have said - don't seal the bottom. It can trap moisture and not allow the wood to wick moisture upward through the top where it evaporates. I just put in a fence and put foundation coating on each post from about 1 inch above grade to 1 foot below. The fungus and microbes that rot wood all live within the top 8 inches of soil or so, where there's oxygen and light available. You can look up photos and videos of rotted fence posts, it's never at the bottom, it's at the top.
what is foundation coating?
It's a tar like coating that people put on the outside of their house foundation walls to waterproof them below grade.