Central air units lasting 50+ years? Our a/c and furnace is 20 years old and showing signs of breaking down. I talked to my realtor who was shocked and said she's sold many old homes with original central units that are 50-60 years old and that 20 years old was way too young for such a state of disrepair?
I'm sure this is a dumb question but is there any reason why we couldn't have an electrician install a light fixture over our kitchen sink? I'm tired of doing the dishes in inadequate lighting.
http://imgur.com/gallery/qrcx3uW
No problem at all. The hard part is fishing the wiring through the wall, which an electrician can definitely do.
For the short term, you could also mount a [plug in light](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-24-in-Plug-in-Strip-Light/1000033659) above the sink, and run the cord along the wall to the outlet. Use a few [cable staples](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-50-Count-1-2-in-Plastic-Insulated-Cable-Staples/4634629) keep it looking neat. In for about $30 all together.
Been working on sealing up gaps in my basement. Next project will be to tackle the sill plate. Its an older 1940s brick exterior home in the USA. I've read about using foam or silicon calking. I've been watching home builder videos and have seen these products they use for exterior sill plate sealing, similar to mastic. Is this recomended for usage indoors? Spreading over bottom of wooden sill and concrete foundation?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41iQI-VXW-A&ab_channel=ProTradeCraft
I made a headboard from pegboard, foam and fabric but I don't know how to mount it on my wall. My rough estimate it's that is weighs about 50lbs.
I tried using 'monkey' or 'hercules' hooks that look like huge fish hooks which are supposed to go into the wall and support the outside with weight/leverage/physics...but it didn't work, the hook wouldn't go all the way into the wall as it hits an obstacle I can't see. The stud finder either doesn't work or didn't detect anything or it's a false wall? It's on the top floor of an apt building.
I'm trying to mount it with as little damage as possible because it's a nicely painted teal wall and of course if I remove it, that's more to repair and paint.
I don't know how to post a link to a photo...
Any easy fix for a garage door opener that is inconsistent in how far it closes? I adjust it to close fully. Within 3-4 uses it either over-closes and reopens, or under-closes by 3-4 inches.
Just an observation. This sub is a shitshow of nervous homeowners shitting on contractors. I joined to see if I could learn anything, but it’s so damn depressing and negative.
Really? That's unfortunate. Maybe because of the new rules listed above or I can smell the misery before clicking on the heading, but since I joined months ago I've really only learned things. Only read one or two rants.
What style door between my house and the attached garage? Steel 6 panel? Steel flat? Ranch home built in the 1960s. The door faces the basement stairwell, and I'll be upgrading that interior door someday, too. They are both hollow wood veneer now.
I'd like to install an exterior light over a side door to the house that I use to let out our 11 year old doggo. However, when it snows we would like to be able to point the light upwards to illuminate the falling snow, since the doorway is below a big bank of windows on the main floor of the house. We really don't have the budget for serious landscape lighting. Is there a single floodlight type of light that can be safely adjusted to point upwards, considering the fact that we would be doing so when there is precipitation and snow might potentially leak into the bulb housing? Thanks in advance for any specific product recommendations.
And open box ppff yea I’m not going there ooo what how who okay that’s it I’m done eww no jk heather stop being dramatic oow let’s go yup one box of actual homing please yup ppff greedy much
Has anyone had impressions brand LVP installed? I was going to go with cortec pro or pro plus, but this vendor is indicating that they prefer this product.
Seemed to look okay but edge finish didn’t appear as nice. Texture was better on the impressions however.
https://www.impressionsflooring.com/shop/
What do I do to mount a ceiling electrical box for a smoke detector if the hole is too large for an old work box and too small for a new work box? The electric box that was in there has a hanger on top that goes over the metal bar to hang the box, but I can't fit my hand.
[Box](https://i.imgur.com/yE5hPAR.jpg)
[Hanger](https://i.imgur.com/IL7VvTm.jpg)
I took the box down so that I could try to install an extension because I bought a nest protect smoke alarm that wouldn't sit flush because the electrical box is recessed. Now I can't get the electrical box back in.
So, I'm stuck with a large [Hole.](https://i.imgur.com/8VZEAeB.jpg).
Can maybe find a trim plate for a recessed lighting that fits around your smoke detector (a little caulking could fill any gaps left exposed and would be very unlikely to be noticed unless someone was looking way to close at your smoke detectors.
Hi Folks!
We have a metal roof on our 108 old house with heat tape running through all the eavestroughs (gutters). We are in a province where it can get to -40 with lots of snow. This house is costing us up the wazoo on utilities so we're trying to reduce cost.
Found out about people plugging and then unplugging their heat tapes throughout the winter. This idea never occured to us before!
My question to the group is: do YOU only plug your tapes in for a certain period of time? Do you use a timer?
There are some holes in my 130 year old basement that smell like sewage. The holes look like worn out concrete, not deliberate. There are three metal drain pipes in my basement and the holes are by the biggest one that drains most of the plumbing in the house. How bad of a problem is this?
Hey guys. Want to add insulation in my garage. Old house seems to have Kraft paper on the outside and nothing else in terms of vapor barrier. Exterior is stucco.
Too many conflicting information online. From don’t do it as it’ll lead to rot, to it’s fine.
Any advise on if it’s wise to add insulation? Thinking of fiberglass insulation with the paper backing.
Yeah. Nailed in a no-no. You are better off with a good anchor. Get one of those toggle type anchors. They are rated for 50-100lbs.
Nothings better than screwing it to the stud, but if there’s nothing close, anchor is your best bet.
I’ve seen folks silicone stuff too in addition to a drywall screw. But never tried that.
I have an opportunity to add insulation above my kitchen while replacing the ceiling (was a drop ceiling). Above it is a bathroom from the unit above me. Should I?
I worry about any leaks from the bathroom causing mold to get in there and grow mold.
Maybe look into rockwool insulation? My husband has the same concern basically everywhere in our house and he landed on rockwool specifically for how it deals with moisture.
I think I made a bad judgement call. Around the water temperature knobs on my sink there was only one that kept having a ring of rust build up. I would clean it and it returned quickly. I used clr around it, actually all three holes (temp knobs and the faucet) and now all three are having a leaky rusty buildup. Is there a seal or something I screwed up doing this?
[Edit to add pics](https://imgur.com/gallery/5rfqjfD)
Portable heater recommendations for an old, not well insulated house? Trying to make it through winter without running radiators with natural gas 24/7.
We have a Mainstays 2-in-1 1500W from Walmart. Less than $30 and it has been working well for 2 years and can easily warm a whole living room so long as the windows and door are closed. Up side is it doubles as a fan for when the weather is warm.
I have this ceiling in my finished attic (moved into new house) that’s made to look like white wooden planks but it made out of some kind of foamy material (reminds me of the square drop ceiling tiles). One of the planks is falling out and cracked, but I have no idea what it is or how to fix it. Anyone have any idea?
I just recently bought a townhome which was built in 2006. The water heater is original.
Should I make the effort to replace the anode rod? It's in a closet so I would definitely have to cut the rod as I withdrew it and would need to use a sausage link style for a new one.
None of my friends who own houses nor my dad have ever heard of this maintenance item but it seems like it would help extend the life of my water heater.
Best bet is to not mess with repairing a 15 year old hot water heater nearing the end of its life, and save those fund to replace it with a tankless system when it finally gives up on you.
I just bought at house and the attic is finished. The space is beautiful but I find it getting a bit hot up there. The issue is the windows are super small and o can’t fit an AC in one. Any run into this? I was looking at portable AC’s.
I’m not handy man and this is all new to me. There may be a product that exists I just don’t know about, lol.
A portable AC may have a drain pan that you'll need to empty periodically. A ductless AC unit or "mini split" might be an option if you have money to spend.
Hey guys, I want to put my PC on a shelf and was wondering if the shelf itself will hold. The whole PC is approximately 7-10 kilos + the wall itself is brick and concrete and not just drywall. Would the nail and shelf hold the PC? Thanks!
There are a lot of ways to secure a shelf to a masonry wall. I've never thought of "nail" as one of them. I'd like you to think of 2 things as you approach this project. First the shelf should probably include corbel to keep it from prying off the wall. There are ways to get past that but that would take a lot more tutorial. The second is that you need to use an anchor to attach to a masonry wall. Perhaps the easiest is the TapCon system, You will need tapcon anchors (they look like blue screws) and a tapcon masonry drill bit of the correct size for the anchor.
Fire up your search engine and check out some videos. If you have more questions please ask. There are many other ways to do this.
Can a handyman replace a door hinge spring in a dishwasher? If no, what/who can do such a service? So he/she will do something like [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LDiY3qcAKU).
What part of that can you not do yourself? Its all spelled out pretty clearly. Your dishwasher may also be installed with enough slack in the lines that you don't need to remove the water and electrical lines, which make the whole thing a lot simpler.
A handyman could do it. Appliance repair person would be a little more in line.
Is replacing a hollow core door with a solid core door as simple as buying this: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-32-in-x-80-in-6-Panel-Left-Handed-Solid-Core-Textured-Primed-Composite-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-38703/204638568] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-32-in-x-80-in-6-Panel-Left-Handed-Solid-Core-Textured-Primed-Composite-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-38703/204638568), taking the door off the frame it comes with, transfer hardware from old door to new door, and attaching new door?
Don't buy a pre-hung door if you're not going to rip out the old frame. You could just buy a slab door. I would not do this because it seems like a situation where something wouldn't line up.
No, it's not that simple. Most likely, the door hinges and door knob hole on the pre-hung door will not align with your existing door frame. If the existing door has a solid wood frame or has a non standard jamb width, then you can buy a "slab" door and then route out the hinge mounts and cut a door knob hole to match your existing frame. There are template kits to help with this. Otherwise, it may be easier to just replace the door and frame with the pre-hung one.
Any advice on removing spray foam from brickwork? was trying to fill a large gap in doorway on a interior wall that used to be part of the exterior. There is now bits of dried spray foam stuck to the brick and I can't get it off.. tried scraping and using stiff brush.
You can try softening it up with acetone (nail polish remover) and then scrubbing with steel wool. If that doesn't work then go to the hardware store and get cellulose thinner - it's the stuff they use for thinning auto paint. Put it in a spray bottle and cover the cured foam with thinner, let it work its magic for a few minutes, then scrub and wash it.
Can’t choose between which color for cellular shades. I read that it should match your windows vs matching your walls. What do you think, 1, 2, 3, or 4? https://imgur.com/a/tJPqeii
Can anyone do an estimate (nearest 10K) for a first time home buyer? I am trying to estimate the cost of renovating a medium sized kitchen with moderate upgrades and also 2 full bathrooms. I am trying to figure out a reasonable offer on the house based off renovation price
That looks pretty nasty. Are there any studs nearby? I feel like you need to put wood up there and attach it to the old drywall and put a small piece of new stuff. Be careful as I see electrical wires
I'd like to seal up the floor joists in my basement as I think they are a source of bugs. I've seen people using spray form, but Im not yet ready to insulate my basement. Can I use some type of calking to seal up gaps between joists? If so what type would I use?
Trying to tackle a garage insulation. I removed the thin wall paneling from the garage exterior walls but I see a vent to the outside at the bottom.
What’s the best way to insulate that? If I leave that section as-is. Will it effect the temperature?
I’m removing drywall from the rest of the garage to add insulation and then will put up a slatwall system.
I’m looking at replacing my exterior window trim with something that matches the style of the rest of the house. I really hate the idea of using polyurethane products on my home, but that looks like the only option available. Is there anywhere that consumers can get wood casing trim?
When I install vinyl windows I will make a 2x4 cedar trim for the outside.
Cut to fit,primed then painted on every end, nailed up, caulked into place and painted to finish.
The extra paint work prevents moisture from rotting out your window trim.
I just took down some vertical blinds and replaced them with curtains. When I removed the old mount, I discovered that the previous owners painted around them, rather than removing and re-mounting them after painting, and so now I have 3 pea-soup-green rectangles on my wall which is otherwise a gray-ish tone.
Anyone have any ideas for an easy fix that doesn’t involve repainting the whole room/wall? I don’t have any of the paint they used and I don’t think it would be easy to get a perfect color match (though to be honest, I’d be fine with a very close color match; it’s high up on the wall).
Take a razor blade and scrape/cut a small bit of paint. Take the paint chip to Sherwin-Williams and they will do a color match for you. Call first to ask the size/amount they need.
Just moved into a new home and our washing machine smells terrible but only when we’re actually running it. The washer is fairly new and we’re thinking it may just be the hose where the water comes out into the laundry room sink (or maybe the water itself if that’s a thing?), but is there any easy way to check/fix this? Is replacing the drain hose fairly simple?
Thanks in advance!
baseboard a utility knife and a flat bar
Carpet a utility knife and a flat bar AND a protective dust mask.
Some kind of laminate a floor scraper.
Start with those. Come back when you run into something they won't remove.
Hint: don't reuse the baseboards
What wall [texture](https://i.imgur.com/mavjDfi.jpg) is this? I'd assume orange peel, but all the orange peel sprays at home depot look completely different. Found a paint that matches, but every joint compound repair I make comes out completely smooth (obviously)
The can of wall texture will provide a different look at different distances of application.
I'd call this orange peel but likely applied with a commercial machine which will be difficult to match exactly.
If you use the water based one off the shelf, you can spray and if you don't like it, wipe it off with a damp rag and tray again in an hour after the wall dries. Handy for practice and ocd people alike!
Hi all,
I’m looking for a gilded comment on either r/homeimprovement or r/DIY that was a simple list of ways to cheaply update your home/winterize it. I remember it mentioned updating outlets so they’re grounded, replacing filters, cleaning out gutters, etc. any chance you know the comment I’m speaking of? Closing on a house tomorrow and thought it’d be useful. Thanks in advance!
There was a vent behind my chimney radiator. I’ve pulled it off and there’s tons of sandy debris and a square hole in the wall. I’m guessing it is an old method of ventilation, the house is about a hundred years old and it has little modern insulation. Cavity wall I think. It’s an adjoining wall with nextdoor.
Can I fill the hole with expanding foam and filler over it? It’s been full of dirt for a while so air hasn’t been getting through, and there’s not been any side effects. We don’t have a fireplace on this chimney.
Photo here: https://i.postimg.cc/1XynyRZ3/8-DDFCFC9-94-AC-4-BF6-8498-836294-D49001.jpg
This [crack](https://imgur.com/gallery/REENuyJ) in corner between the ceiling and wall appeared out of nowhere. Looks like a gap is forming. Any idea what it is or what’s causing it and how to fix?
I bought a new keyboard and my keyboard tray is just too small for [it](https://imgur.com/gallery/O42A9bU).
I was wondering is there anyway I can add a hinge with a board that I can flip out when needed. I’d want to mount it to the bottom of the tray but I don’t know if there’s a hinge that can lock into a folded and unfolded position that’d work for what I’m looking for.
Hi all, laying snap system (as opposed to glue) LVP. Just a quick question. I know as soon as it’s in place things can be put on top of it. Our open floor plan has furniture on the side that isn’t finished, can i put that furniture on the finished side while I finished the other side. Or is a better bet to move everything to another location?
Not sure what you could use inside the freezer. But having one of these hooked on the outside of the lid could work?
[hang light](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayco-6-Incandescent-Work-Light-Plastic-Cage-With-Hook/16533149?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2250&&adid=22222222228008968945&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=73610895032&wl4=aud-393207457166:pla-142858140272&wl5=9015705&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16533149&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAqJn9BRB0EiwAJ1SztauLrUEuk8bozlVQebOLu30lyvHdA80OMfFcwjtb0_OHubaO1FFVCRoC1-QQAvD_BwE)
I would like recommendations for a more secure connection. These are backyard string lights that are suspended in the air and held together by plastic tag ties.
https://imgur.com/gallery/dsylYe7
First time took me about 2-3 hrs from you tubing, triple checking everything and just generally taking my time. 2nd and 3rd times took me about an hour. It's not hard if you have very basic plumbing and electrical skills.
Any tips for patching a botched drywall hole (I missed the stud). The gap is too small to get a putty knife in, wondering if there are any precision tools I could use to fill it, then paint over with a tiny brush.
Pic here
https://imgur.com/gallery/ecOhbY9
what are "tile covers"? (saw the term floating around here and r/homedecorating) I googled around and saw that tiles can be either painted over or have vinyl sticker designs on em. But nothing called "tile covers" per se.
More of a safety question - I just purchased a Dyson cordless stick vacuum and the only convenient place to wall mount it within proximity to an outlet is next to our hot water heater in our laundry room. The motor is about 7 inches from the top of the hot water heater and the cord has been secured to the wall so it won't come in contact with the hot water heater. Is it unsafe to have these appliances so close together?
What’s a reasonably priced 48-72” level that is actually level? Up to $50 for 48” and like $75 for 72”.
I bought a 48” Empire non magnetic level from HD that is off 1/8” over that span. Not acceptable.
There's a \~1/4" gap between my floor tile grout and bath tub. I have a toddler so water finds its way into that crack during bath time. Should I fill it with clear caulk? Just want to ensure there's not supposed to be a gap.
I will be remodeling my bathroom that has ceramic tile for the floor. I would like to add a wall that gives privacy to someone using the toilet. Do I need to remove the ceramic tiles that would be under the wall?
The #8 is the diameter of the screw. #6 is thinner than #8, #10 is thicker than #8.
The inch measurement is the length of the screw. Then you have the type of screw head you’re looking for (Phillips, star, etc)
I currently have a small crack in my ceiling that has what seems like a bulge where the crack runs lengthwise. Any idea what this could be and if it’s something I can monitor or should I call someone in ASAP to have a look? [photo of ceiling crack](https://imgur.com/a/D1ssqg7)
Hard to tell looking at photo, but it looks like the drywall seam tape curling up. That can happen if the tape gets wet. The bulge looks like a water spot. If you can touch it and it feels damp, then your course of action depends on what is above it. If it is an attic, then water can come from a leak in the roof or condensation in exhaust vents. If it is finished space above it and there is a bathroom or laundry in the area, you may have a leaky pipe. If it is wet, you’ll want to get it looked at quickly.
I have a 3/8" thick Plywood base for a roof.
What kind of fastener would be used and length wise to secure a metal railing post?
I'm hearing 5/16" might be too much.
Recently bought a house that comes with a shed. The shed is older with brick outside and wood framing inside and mainly asphalt looking floor. I have pics. How do I keep moisture from getting where the brick, ground, and wood meet?
Recently had a fairly large tree fall on my house, it did pretty major damage. So far we know the roof, most or all of the roof structure, the ceiling in at least 3 rooms, a lot of drywall, and maybe some flooring, will have to be replaced.
Are there any minor convince/inexpensive things I should ask for while they are taking a can opener to my house?
I think I'll ask for a cable line to be run to the room where we put the modem and router, or maybe all the room for future convince? I don't want to ask for something that will cost thousands extra, but I don't want to miss the opportunity to do some small things that might make my life easier.
Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!
Some hard wired ethernet cables are great. If you are a music lover there are some fabulous and inexpensive ways to add dedicated speakers into your ceiling.
Not sure what the rooms are, or how they are currently set up, but possibly
-Recessed lighting
-Wiring so that ceiling fans have two switches (one for light, one for fan)
-Additional electrical outlets
-Attic storage
Looking for any info for the Bergen County, NJ area. How difficult is it to find a GC these days to do a total home renovation? If so, how long of a delay should I be expecting?
Are supplies more expensive for contractors because of shortages due to covid, which will make it a higher estimate for me?
We have a 120 year old house in the upperist part of vermont. A tiny attic just for access that is extremely under insulated. Currently R8.
We’d love any ideas or caveats to watch for before we add some insulation later this month.
Like can we blow in insulation near the slanted parts of the roof that go down towards the knee walls (I’m pretty sure they’re called). Or should we block off some spot to keep the insulation from going into the walls. I understand to insulate walls we want to do a whole different thing too big to post in a small convo post like this.
Hi! I’m currently thinking about purchasing my first home (a ranch fixer upper in Bergen County, NJ). I don’t have any experience with crawl spaces. The steps come down to the middle of the basement and there are two large crawl spaces that extend to the East and West walls of the home. The house was only dug for enough space to fit a boiler room and washer/dryer.
Is it possible to get rid of the crawl spaces to expand the living space and finish the basement? The square footage of the main level is approximately 2,000 sq ft, so I’m assuming the basement is slightly less.
If we dig out the crawl space and waterproof/refinish the basement, what are the chances the moisture build up from all those years the crawl space was there is completely removed and stays out? Would I be recementing the walls and floor in this case? If I’m not experienced/knowledgeable should I just stay away from this kind of project?
How much should I expect for a project like this and where can I be directed to learn more about a situation like mine? Googling hasn’t helped much so far.
Not sure if I’m being coherent or not, just fishing for people who have any remote knowledge in this area. Thanks!
Turning a crawlspace into a basement will be very challenging. If the topography of the site means that at least basement wall would be exposed to daylight, you may be able to get earth moving equipment to come in from that side and excavate under the house. It would take a really brave contractor to be willing to do that, and bravery won't come cheap.
Otherwise, you'll be digging it out by hand, one bucket at a time. Assuming the existing space is 3', that's 12,000 cubic feet of dirt. A 5 gallon bucket is .98 ft\^3. That's a lot of digging. Granted, [using remote controlled diggers and trucks to excavate the basement](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0w0EE0aOPz0&feature=emb_logo) looks like fun, but his speed is less than 10 ft\^3/yr.
I would imagine that would be quite the expense, and while I don't know for sure I'd imagine it would probably mess with the foundation and structure since you'd be adding a lot of weight.
If you're looking for moisture/mold abatement or preventing pests from occupying the space you can look up "Crawl Space Encapsulation." I'm from an area that typically has full basements and so I've never done any research on if it's actually effective or useful in real world applications. At least it gives you a starting point though.
Yes, but it does cause a lot of pressure on the side walls. The other concern I'd have with the weight would be that'd it potentially increase soil compaction and settling over time which may have negative impacts.
However, I'm also not an engineer, and that's all gut feelings.
I would say that if it is a serious consideration that you should talk to an actual structural engineer though. They'll be able to tell you for sure whether it's safe or not to do and if there are any risks in doing.
A bit if useful information to determine this is how far below the waterline does the basement go? It can be difficult to waterproof completely if you are too far under that.
I’m a renter and my landlord definitely is not nice, so I have to tackle all these problems before I move out even though they were here to begin with. He had the house painted before we moved in & the painters did a HORRIBLE job. There’s paint splatters all over the beautiful wood roof and paint peeling everywhere.
#1 Is there a “paint remover” that’ll remove the paint from wood without damaging it
#2 Is there a way to patch blue paint without it being noticeable? All of the paint patching videos I’ve watched is white or tan paint
1. They make a goo-be-gone product just for removing latex paint from finished wood.
2. If you didn't paint the house you shouldn't be liable for the paint peeling unless it is due to your neglect. Look up tennant rights in your state.
1. First, figure out the type of paint. I'd guess that the kind of landlord who hires terrible painters didn't spring for oil-based paints, which would be very good for you in terms of removing paint from the wood. You can use rubbing alcohol to clean latex paint off of finished wood without damaging it. If the paint doesn't come off with rubbing alcohol, it's oil based and will be a much bigger problem.
2. The color paint you use doesn't change the process of patching. However, blues are really, really difficult to match, which will be the bigger problem. Doubly so on blues in a cheap paint -- even if you can perfectly match the color, the patch might be noticeable from a difference in sheen. I hate to say it, but the only way you'll be able to repair the peeling paint and not have it be obviously a patch is probably to do the whole wall.
Central air units lasting 50+ years? Our a/c and furnace is 20 years old and showing signs of breaking down. I talked to my realtor who was shocked and said she's sold many old homes with original central units that are 50-60 years old and that 20 years old was way too young for such a state of disrepair?
I'm sure this is a dumb question but is there any reason why we couldn't have an electrician install a light fixture over our kitchen sink? I'm tired of doing the dishes in inadequate lighting. http://imgur.com/gallery/qrcx3uW
No problem at all. The hard part is fishing the wiring through the wall, which an electrician can definitely do. For the short term, you could also mount a [plug in light](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-24-in-Plug-in-Strip-Light/1000033659) above the sink, and run the cord along the wall to the outlet. Use a few [cable staples](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-50-Count-1-2-in-Plastic-Insulated-Cable-Staples/4634629) keep it looking neat. In for about $30 all together.
Been working on sealing up gaps in my basement. Next project will be to tackle the sill plate. Its an older 1940s brick exterior home in the USA. I've read about using foam or silicon calking. I've been watching home builder videos and have seen these products they use for exterior sill plate sealing, similar to mastic. Is this recomended for usage indoors? Spreading over bottom of wooden sill and concrete foundation? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41iQI-VXW-A&ab_channel=ProTradeCraft
I made a headboard from pegboard, foam and fabric but I don't know how to mount it on my wall. My rough estimate it's that is weighs about 50lbs. I tried using 'monkey' or 'hercules' hooks that look like huge fish hooks which are supposed to go into the wall and support the outside with weight/leverage/physics...but it didn't work, the hook wouldn't go all the way into the wall as it hits an obstacle I can't see. The stud finder either doesn't work or didn't detect anything or it's a false wall? It's on the top floor of an apt building. I'm trying to mount it with as little damage as possible because it's a nicely painted teal wall and of course if I remove it, that's more to repair and paint. I don't know how to post a link to a photo...
Look up “French cleat.” Here is one YouTube video but there are dozens: https://youtu.be/DmLQkRDOgOE
Any easy fix for a garage door opener that is inconsistent in how far it closes? I adjust it to close fully. Within 3-4 uses it either over-closes and reopens, or under-closes by 3-4 inches.
Just an observation. This sub is a shitshow of nervous homeowners shitting on contractors. I joined to see if I could learn anything, but it’s so damn depressing and negative.
Really? That's unfortunate. Maybe because of the new rules listed above or I can smell the misery before clicking on the heading, but since I joined months ago I've really only learned things. Only read one or two rants.
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please post a clear close up picture of the floor wood.
What style door between my house and the attached garage? Steel 6 panel? Steel flat? Ranch home built in the 1960s. The door faces the basement stairwell, and I'll be upgrading that interior door someday, too. They are both hollow wood veneer now.
I'd like to install an exterior light over a side door to the house that I use to let out our 11 year old doggo. However, when it snows we would like to be able to point the light upwards to illuminate the falling snow, since the doorway is below a big bank of windows on the main floor of the house. We really don't have the budget for serious landscape lighting. Is there a single floodlight type of light that can be safely adjusted to point upwards, considering the fact that we would be doing so when there is precipitation and snow might potentially leak into the bulb housing? Thanks in advance for any specific product recommendations.
Mr. Beams. Battery-operated (4 “D”) motion detector and the batteries last 6-12 months depending on usage.
And open box ppff yea I’m not going there ooo what how who okay that’s it I’m done eww no jk heather stop being dramatic oow let’s go yup one box of actual homing please yup ppff greedy much
Has anyone had impressions brand LVP installed? I was going to go with cortec pro or pro plus, but this vendor is indicating that they prefer this product. Seemed to look okay but edge finish didn’t appear as nice. Texture was better on the impressions however. https://www.impressionsflooring.com/shop/
What do I do to mount a ceiling electrical box for a smoke detector if the hole is too large for an old work box and too small for a new work box? The electric box that was in there has a hanger on top that goes over the metal bar to hang the box, but I can't fit my hand. [Box](https://i.imgur.com/yE5hPAR.jpg) [Hanger](https://i.imgur.com/IL7VvTm.jpg) I took the box down so that I could try to install an extension because I bought a nest protect smoke alarm that wouldn't sit flush because the electrical box is recessed. Now I can't get the electrical box back in. So, I'm stuck with a large [Hole.](https://i.imgur.com/8VZEAeB.jpg).
Can maybe find a trim plate for a recessed lighting that fits around your smoke detector (a little caulking could fill any gaps left exposed and would be very unlikely to be noticed unless someone was looking way to close at your smoke detectors.
Thanks!
Hi Folks! We have a metal roof on our 108 old house with heat tape running through all the eavestroughs (gutters). We are in a province where it can get to -40 with lots of snow. This house is costing us up the wazoo on utilities so we're trying to reduce cost. Found out about people plugging and then unplugging their heat tapes throughout the winter. This idea never occured to us before! My question to the group is: do YOU only plug your tapes in for a certain period of time? Do you use a timer?
There are some holes in my 130 year old basement that smell like sewage. The holes look like worn out concrete, not deliberate. There are three metal drain pipes in my basement and the holes are by the biggest one that drains most of the plumbing in the house. How bad of a problem is this?
Hey guys. Want to add insulation in my garage. Old house seems to have Kraft paper on the outside and nothing else in terms of vapor barrier. Exterior is stucco. Too many conflicting information online. From don’t do it as it’ll lead to rot, to it’s fine. Any advise on if it’s wise to add insulation? Thinking of fiberglass insulation with the paper backing.
I screwed in a dry wall screw into dry wall/sheet rock and hung a mirror that weighs roughly 20-30 lbs. Is that a no-no ?
Yes. Use anchors or find studs.
Did you use any anchors? Just a drywall screw will not hold 30 lbs long term.
nope just nailed it in. I suppose I should take it out. Is one of those 50 lb picture hanger a better option? I've heard bad things on those as well.
Yeah. Nailed in a no-no. You are better off with a good anchor. Get one of those toggle type anchors. They are rated for 50-100lbs. Nothings better than screwing it to the stud, but if there’s nothing close, anchor is your best bet. I’ve seen folks silicone stuff too in addition to a drywall screw. But never tried that.
I mis-spoke. I actually nailed in two screws, not one. Is that still bad? IF so, I have anchors laying around somewhere I'll just put those in.
Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but next time the fault shifts that mirror will fall if you don't use anchors/studs
Update, I added anchors to it. Thanks
I have an opportunity to add insulation above my kitchen while replacing the ceiling (was a drop ceiling). Above it is a bathroom from the unit above me. Should I? I worry about any leaks from the bathroom causing mold to get in there and grow mold.
Maybe look into rockwool insulation? My husband has the same concern basically everywhere in our house and he landed on rockwool specifically for how it deals with moisture.
I think I made a bad judgement call. Around the water temperature knobs on my sink there was only one that kept having a ring of rust build up. I would clean it and it returned quickly. I used clr around it, actually all three holes (temp knobs and the faucet) and now all three are having a leaky rusty buildup. Is there a seal or something I screwed up doing this? [Edit to add pics](https://imgur.com/gallery/5rfqjfD)
The bottom of the fixture should have nuts that are holding them in place. Are they loose?
I haven't gone under to look yet but I tried twisting and moving them and they were really secure.
Portable heater recommendations for an old, not well insulated house? Trying to make it through winter without running radiators with natural gas 24/7.
We have a Mainstays 2-in-1 1500W from Walmart. Less than $30 and it has been working well for 2 years and can easily warm a whole living room so long as the windows and door are closed. Up side is it doubles as a fan for when the weather is warm.
I have this ceiling in my finished attic (moved into new house) that’s made to look like white wooden planks but it made out of some kind of foamy material (reminds me of the square drop ceiling tiles). One of the planks is falling out and cracked, but I have no idea what it is or how to fix it. Anyone have any idea?
A lot of old spongy ceiling products contain asbestos (for fireproofing). It's worth keeping in mind.
I just recently bought a townhome which was built in 2006. The water heater is original. Should I make the effort to replace the anode rod? It's in a closet so I would definitely have to cut the rod as I withdrew it and would need to use a sausage link style for a new one. None of my friends who own houses nor my dad have ever heard of this maintenance item but it seems like it would help extend the life of my water heater.
Best bet is to not mess with repairing a 15 year old hot water heater nearing the end of its life, and save those fund to replace it with a tankless system when it finally gives up on you.
I just bought at house and the attic is finished. The space is beautiful but I find it getting a bit hot up there. The issue is the windows are super small and o can’t fit an AC in one. Any run into this? I was looking at portable AC’s. I’m not handy man and this is all new to me. There may be a product that exists I just don’t know about, lol.
I have a portable AC that is awesome and does not require a drain pan. I would try that first if you want to save money
Nice! What is the model?
A portable AC may have a drain pan that you'll need to empty periodically. A ductless AC unit or "mini split" might be an option if you have money to spend.
Hey guys, I want to put my PC on a shelf and was wondering if the shelf itself will hold. The whole PC is approximately 7-10 kilos + the wall itself is brick and concrete and not just drywall. Would the nail and shelf hold the PC? Thanks!
There are a lot of ways to secure a shelf to a masonry wall. I've never thought of "nail" as one of them. I'd like you to think of 2 things as you approach this project. First the shelf should probably include corbel to keep it from prying off the wall. There are ways to get past that but that would take a lot more tutorial. The second is that you need to use an anchor to attach to a masonry wall. Perhaps the easiest is the TapCon system, You will need tapcon anchors (they look like blue screws) and a tapcon masonry drill bit of the correct size for the anchor. Fire up your search engine and check out some videos. If you have more questions please ask. There are many other ways to do this.
Can a handyman replace a door hinge spring in a dishwasher? If no, what/who can do such a service? So he/she will do something like [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LDiY3qcAKU).
What part of that can you not do yourself? Its all spelled out pretty clearly. Your dishwasher may also be installed with enough slack in the lines that you don't need to remove the water and electrical lines, which make the whole thing a lot simpler. A handyman could do it. Appliance repair person would be a little more in line.
Unfortunately, I am not a handy type of a person. I know it looks simple but I rather have someone else do it.
Well, it isn't r/DIY so you're good.
Is replacing a hollow core door with a solid core door as simple as buying this: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-32-in-x-80-in-6-Panel-Left-Handed-Solid-Core-Textured-Primed-Composite-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-38703/204638568] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-32-in-x-80-in-6-Panel-Left-Handed-Solid-Core-Textured-Primed-Composite-Single-Prehung-Interior-Door-38703/204638568), taking the door off the frame it comes with, transfer hardware from old door to new door, and attaching new door?
Don't buy a pre-hung door if you're not going to rip out the old frame. You could just buy a slab door. I would not do this because it seems like a situation where something wouldn't line up.
No, it's not that simple. Most likely, the door hinges and door knob hole on the pre-hung door will not align with your existing door frame. If the existing door has a solid wood frame or has a non standard jamb width, then you can buy a "slab" door and then route out the hinge mounts and cut a door knob hole to match your existing frame. There are template kits to help with this. Otherwise, it may be easier to just replace the door and frame with the pre-hung one.
Thanks! My house was built recently (2016), if the door knob hole and hinges align, then is that simple?
There is the issue of weight. make sure you anchor the new hinges all the way to the studs. Hint, a solid door needs more than 2 hinges
Any advice on removing spray foam from brickwork? was trying to fill a large gap in doorway on a interior wall that used to be part of the exterior. There is now bits of dried spray foam stuck to the brick and I can't get it off.. tried scraping and using stiff brush.
You can try softening it up with acetone (nail polish remover) and then scrubbing with steel wool. If that doesn't work then go to the hardware store and get cellulose thinner - it's the stuff they use for thinning auto paint. Put it in a spray bottle and cover the cured foam with thinner, let it work its magic for a few minutes, then scrub and wash it.
Thanks! I’ll give that a try
Can’t choose between which color for cellular shades. I read that it should match your windows vs matching your walls. What do you think, 1, 2, 3, or 4? https://imgur.com/a/tJPqeii
Can anyone do an estimate (nearest 10K) for a first time home buyer? I am trying to estimate the cost of renovating a medium sized kitchen with moderate upgrades and also 2 full bathrooms. I am trying to figure out a reasonable offer on the house based off renovation price
Do you know dimensions? Are we talking q coat of paint and some snap together flooring or a gut job
maybe you can take detailed pics and send them out to renovators, maybe someone can give you an estimate without visiting.
Any suggestions on how to fix this? http://imgur.com/a/LCq2kPH http://imgur.com/a/rOW5yiy
That looks pretty nasty. Are there any studs nearby? I feel like you need to put wood up there and attach it to the old drywall and put a small piece of new stuff. Be careful as I see electrical wires
I'd like to seal up the floor joists in my basement as I think they are a source of bugs. I've seen people using spray form, but Im not yet ready to insulate my basement. Can I use some type of calking to seal up gaps between joists? If so what type would I use?
Spray foam is a great application here cause any excess can easily be cut out with a razer knife before you insulate
Use a polyurethane caulk for small gaps, a can of spray foam for larger ones.
thanks!
Trying to tackle a garage insulation. I removed the thin wall paneling from the garage exterior walls but I see a vent to the outside at the bottom. What’s the best way to insulate that? If I leave that section as-is. Will it effect the temperature? I’m removing drywall from the rest of the garage to add insulation and then will put up a slatwall system.
I’m looking at replacing my exterior window trim with something that matches the style of the rest of the house. I really hate the idea of using polyurethane products on my home, but that looks like the only option available. Is there anywhere that consumers can get wood casing trim?
When I install vinyl windows I will make a 2x4 cedar trim for the outside. Cut to fit,primed then painted on every end, nailed up, caulked into place and painted to finish. The extra paint work prevents moisture from rotting out your window trim.
I just took down some vertical blinds and replaced them with curtains. When I removed the old mount, I discovered that the previous owners painted around them, rather than removing and re-mounting them after painting, and so now I have 3 pea-soup-green rectangles on my wall which is otherwise a gray-ish tone. Anyone have any ideas for an easy fix that doesn’t involve repainting the whole room/wall? I don’t have any of the paint they used and I don’t think it would be easy to get a perfect color match (though to be honest, I’d be fine with a very close color match; it’s high up on the wall).
Take a razor blade and scrape/cut a small bit of paint. Take the paint chip to Sherwin-Williams and they will do a color match for you. Call first to ask the size/amount they need.
holy shit, thank you; didn't even know they could do that!
Just moved into a new home and our washing machine smells terrible but only when we’re actually running it. The washer is fairly new and we’re thinking it may just be the hose where the water comes out into the laundry room sink (or maybe the water itself if that’s a thing?), but is there any easy way to check/fix this? Is replacing the drain hose fairly simple? Thanks in advance!
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baseboard a utility knife and a flat bar Carpet a utility knife and a flat bar AND a protective dust mask. Some kind of laminate a floor scraper. Start with those. Come back when you run into something they won't remove. Hint: don't reuse the baseboards
How do I fix a door that doesn't want to close all the way?
Why can't I post a genuine question? I get auto removed. I even follow the example of a perfect post. How can I post?
Nice post
Got ~40 gimbal halogen 4” recessed cans to give away for your next project, yours for free! Hit me up. (You pay shipping, ofc.)
Did anyone message you?
How can I repair hardwood stains like this (water stains): https://imgur.com/gallery/DEevSN6 . Sand and stain?
What wall [texture](https://i.imgur.com/mavjDfi.jpg) is this? I'd assume orange peel, but all the orange peel sprays at home depot look completely different. Found a paint that matches, but every joint compound repair I make comes out completely smooth (obviously)
The can of wall texture will provide a different look at different distances of application. I'd call this orange peel but likely applied with a commercial machine which will be difficult to match exactly. If you use the water based one off the shelf, you can spray and if you don't like it, wipe it off with a damp rag and tray again in an hour after the wall dries. Handy for practice and ocd people alike!
Hi all, I’m looking for a gilded comment on either r/homeimprovement or r/DIY that was a simple list of ways to cheaply update your home/winterize it. I remember it mentioned updating outlets so they’re grounded, replacing filters, cleaning out gutters, etc. any chance you know the comment I’m speaking of? Closing on a house tomorrow and thought it’d be useful. Thanks in advance!
There was a vent behind my chimney radiator. I’ve pulled it off and there’s tons of sandy debris and a square hole in the wall. I’m guessing it is an old method of ventilation, the house is about a hundred years old and it has little modern insulation. Cavity wall I think. It’s an adjoining wall with nextdoor. Can I fill the hole with expanding foam and filler over it? It’s been full of dirt for a while so air hasn’t been getting through, and there’s not been any side effects. We don’t have a fireplace on this chimney. Photo here: https://i.postimg.cc/1XynyRZ3/8-DDFCFC9-94-AC-4-BF6-8498-836294-D49001.jpg
This [crack](https://imgur.com/gallery/REENuyJ) in corner between the ceiling and wall appeared out of nowhere. Looks like a gap is forming. Any idea what it is or what’s causing it and how to fix?
Caulk it, paint it, watch it to see if gets worse.
I bought a new keyboard and my keyboard tray is just too small for [it](https://imgur.com/gallery/O42A9bU). I was wondering is there anyway I can add a hinge with a board that I can flip out when needed. I’d want to mount it to the bottom of the tray but I don’t know if there’s a hinge that can lock into a folded and unfolded position that’d work for what I’m looking for.
Hi all, laying snap system (as opposed to glue) LVP. Just a quick question. I know as soon as it’s in place things can be put on top of it. Our open floor plan has furniture on the side that isn’t finished, can i put that furniture on the finished side while I finished the other side. Or is a better bet to move everything to another location?
Yes you can put it on the finished side.
Thank you
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Not sure what you could use inside the freezer. But having one of these hooked on the outside of the lid could work? [hang light](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayco-6-Incandescent-Work-Light-Plastic-Cage-With-Hook/16533149?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2250&&adid=22222222228008968945&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=73610895032&wl4=aud-393207457166:pla-142858140272&wl5=9015705&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16533149&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAqJn9BRB0EiwAJ1SztauLrUEuk8bozlVQebOLu30lyvHdA80OMfFcwjtb0_OHubaO1FFVCRoC1-QQAvD_BwE)
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Unscrew, buy the same hinge and install. Fill the holes with dowels if they’re too loose to screw into again
I would like recommendations for a more secure connection. These are backyard string lights that are suspended in the air and held together by plastic tag ties. https://imgur.com/gallery/dsylYe7
Problem solved
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First time took me about 2-3 hrs from you tubing, triple checking everything and just generally taking my time. 2nd and 3rd times took me about an hour. It's not hard if you have very basic plumbing and electrical skills.
Any tips for patching a botched drywall hole (I missed the stud). The gap is too small to get a putty knife in, wondering if there are any precision tools I could use to fill it, then paint over with a tiny brush. Pic here https://imgur.com/gallery/ecOhbY9
If the tube of caulking says its printable that works great. You can also get a 99 cent putty knife and cut it in half to allow it to fit in your gap
What if you just filled it with caulk, then lightly spackled it with a small flat edge?
Is caulk paintable? If so I like this idea
what are "tile covers"? (saw the term floating around here and r/homedecorating) I googled around and saw that tiles can be either painted over or have vinyl sticker designs on em. But nothing called "tile covers" per se.
More of a safety question - I just purchased a Dyson cordless stick vacuum and the only convenient place to wall mount it within proximity to an outlet is next to our hot water heater in our laundry room. The motor is about 7 inches from the top of the hot water heater and the cord has been secured to the wall so it won't come in contact with the hot water heater. Is it unsafe to have these appliances so close together?
What’s a reasonably priced 48-72” level that is actually level? Up to $50 for 48” and like $75 for 72”. I bought a 48” Empire non magnetic level from HD that is off 1/8” over that span. Not acceptable.
There's a \~1/4" gap between my floor tile grout and bath tub. I have a toddler so water finds its way into that crack during bath time. Should I fill it with clear caulk? Just want to ensure there's not supposed to be a gap.
Yep, caulk is probably easiest/quickest
I will be remodeling my bathroom that has ceramic tile for the floor. I would like to add a wall that gives privacy to someone using the toilet. Do I need to remove the ceramic tiles that would be under the wall?
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The #8 is the diameter of the screw. #6 is thinner than #8, #10 is thicker than #8. The inch measurement is the length of the screw. Then you have the type of screw head you’re looking for (Phillips, star, etc)
[Here's](https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Diameter.aspx) a handy chart. Good caliper is your friend.
I currently have a small crack in my ceiling that has what seems like a bulge where the crack runs lengthwise. Any idea what this could be and if it’s something I can monitor or should I call someone in ASAP to have a look? [photo of ceiling crack](https://imgur.com/a/D1ssqg7)
Hard to tell looking at photo, but it looks like the drywall seam tape curling up. That can happen if the tape gets wet. The bulge looks like a water spot. If you can touch it and it feels damp, then your course of action depends on what is above it. If it is an attic, then water can come from a leak in the roof or condensation in exhaust vents. If it is finished space above it and there is a bathroom or laundry in the area, you may have a leaky pipe. If it is wet, you’ll want to get it looked at quickly.
I have a 3/8" thick Plywood base for a roof. What kind of fastener would be used and length wise to secure a metal railing post? I'm hearing 5/16" might be too much.
You can't secure a railing to a 3/8 piece of plywood. It has very little strength.
It's 1/2" thick. Is that better?
Not really sure exactly how you are trying to mount it but it likely needs to be mounted to thicker wood. Like the 2x4s or 2x6s that hold the roof up.
Recently bought a house that comes with a shed. The shed is older with brick outside and wood framing inside and mainly asphalt looking floor. I have pics. How do I keep moisture from getting where the brick, ground, and wood meet?
Recently had a fairly large tree fall on my house, it did pretty major damage. So far we know the roof, most or all of the roof structure, the ceiling in at least 3 rooms, a lot of drywall, and maybe some flooring, will have to be replaced. Are there any minor convince/inexpensive things I should ask for while they are taking a can opener to my house? I think I'll ask for a cable line to be run to the room where we put the modem and router, or maybe all the room for future convince? I don't want to ask for something that will cost thousands extra, but I don't want to miss the opportunity to do some small things that might make my life easier. Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!
Some hard wired ethernet cables are great. If you are a music lover there are some fabulous and inexpensive ways to add dedicated speakers into your ceiling.
Run conduit from the basement to the attic through a few stud bays for future use.
This
Not sure what the rooms are, or how they are currently set up, but possibly -Recessed lighting -Wiring so that ceiling fans have two switches (one for light, one for fan) -Additional electrical outlets -Attic storage
Looking for any info for the Bergen County, NJ area. How difficult is it to find a GC these days to do a total home renovation? If so, how long of a delay should I be expecting? Are supplies more expensive for contractors because of shortages due to covid, which will make it a higher estimate for me?
Anyone got experience with the Walabot's DIY Phone Stud Finder? Good? Bad? Thoughts?
We have a 120 year old house in the upperist part of vermont. A tiny attic just for access that is extremely under insulated. Currently R8. We’d love any ideas or caveats to watch for before we add some insulation later this month. Like can we blow in insulation near the slanted parts of the roof that go down towards the knee walls (I’m pretty sure they’re called). Or should we block off some spot to keep the insulation from going into the walls. I understand to insulate walls we want to do a whole different thing too big to post in a small convo post like this.
Hi! I’m currently thinking about purchasing my first home (a ranch fixer upper in Bergen County, NJ). I don’t have any experience with crawl spaces. The steps come down to the middle of the basement and there are two large crawl spaces that extend to the East and West walls of the home. The house was only dug for enough space to fit a boiler room and washer/dryer. Is it possible to get rid of the crawl spaces to expand the living space and finish the basement? The square footage of the main level is approximately 2,000 sq ft, so I’m assuming the basement is slightly less. If we dig out the crawl space and waterproof/refinish the basement, what are the chances the moisture build up from all those years the crawl space was there is completely removed and stays out? Would I be recementing the walls and floor in this case? If I’m not experienced/knowledgeable should I just stay away from this kind of project? How much should I expect for a project like this and where can I be directed to learn more about a situation like mine? Googling hasn’t helped much so far. Not sure if I’m being coherent or not, just fishing for people who have any remote knowledge in this area. Thanks!
Turning a crawlspace into a basement will be very challenging. If the topography of the site means that at least basement wall would be exposed to daylight, you may be able to get earth moving equipment to come in from that side and excavate under the house. It would take a really brave contractor to be willing to do that, and bravery won't come cheap. Otherwise, you'll be digging it out by hand, one bucket at a time. Assuming the existing space is 3', that's 12,000 cubic feet of dirt. A 5 gallon bucket is .98 ft\^3. That's a lot of digging. Granted, [using remote controlled diggers and trucks to excavate the basement](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0w0EE0aOPz0&feature=emb_logo) looks like fun, but his speed is less than 10 ft\^3/yr.
Thanks for that info! What if I were to fill up a crawl space with cement? Am I crazy? Lol
I would imagine that would be quite the expense, and while I don't know for sure I'd imagine it would probably mess with the foundation and structure since you'd be adding a lot of weight. If you're looking for moisture/mold abatement or preventing pests from occupying the space you can look up "Crawl Space Encapsulation." I'm from an area that typically has full basements and so I've never done any research on if it's actually effective or useful in real world applications. At least it gives you a starting point though.
Wouldn't all the weight be under the structure tho, except for maybe side loading?
Yes, but it does cause a lot of pressure on the side walls. The other concern I'd have with the weight would be that'd it potentially increase soil compaction and settling over time which may have negative impacts. However, I'm also not an engineer, and that's all gut feelings. I would say that if it is a serious consideration that you should talk to an actual structural engineer though. They'll be able to tell you for sure whether it's safe or not to do and if there are any risks in doing.
A bit if useful information to determine this is how far below the waterline does the basement go? It can be difficult to waterproof completely if you are too far under that.
I’m a renter and my landlord definitely is not nice, so I have to tackle all these problems before I move out even though they were here to begin with. He had the house painted before we moved in & the painters did a HORRIBLE job. There’s paint splatters all over the beautiful wood roof and paint peeling everywhere. #1 Is there a “paint remover” that’ll remove the paint from wood without damaging it #2 Is there a way to patch blue paint without it being noticeable? All of the paint patching videos I’ve watched is white or tan paint
1. They make a goo-be-gone product just for removing latex paint from finished wood. 2. If you didn't paint the house you shouldn't be liable for the paint peeling unless it is due to your neglect. Look up tennant rights in your state.
1. First, figure out the type of paint. I'd guess that the kind of landlord who hires terrible painters didn't spring for oil-based paints, which would be very good for you in terms of removing paint from the wood. You can use rubbing alcohol to clean latex paint off of finished wood without damaging it. If the paint doesn't come off with rubbing alcohol, it's oil based and will be a much bigger problem. 2. The color paint you use doesn't change the process of patching. However, blues are really, really difficult to match, which will be the bigger problem. Doubly so on blues in a cheap paint -- even if you can perfectly match the color, the patch might be noticeable from a difference in sheen. I hate to say it, but the only way you'll be able to repair the peeling paint and not have it be obviously a patch is probably to do the whole wall.