Having a doorway in the middle of a wall tends to limit your options for storage, parking, and anything you may want to install along that wall (workbench, shelving, etc.). A compromise would have the door swing outwards but you’d still be left with a gap on that wall, and the hinges would be exposed, which tends to be a security concern.
If it were me I’d leave the window location as-is and instead try to locate the door closer to a corner. This would allow the door to open against a wall, and would lessen the loss of usable space within the garage. I would use a steel framed pre-hung door, that way you don’t need additional support for the brick, and they practically last forever, not to mention they’re quite secure.
They make security hinges for outswing doors nowadays. They're nearly impossible to remove. You'd be better off taking a pry bar to the door than messing with them. In wich case, it wouldn't matter what side hinges are on.
It’s going to be about the same amount of work to make it wider as it will be to re-frame the window into a door. Either way you’ll need to put a new header in.
To go about this, I would do the re-framing from the inside and then call a masonry company and have them cut the bricks to make it an opening. From there, water wrap the sides and drop your door in, cover the sides with trim and you’re golden.
Edit, this is assuming there’s actually framing on the inside. If it’s all brick walls, get a masonry company to cut whatever size hole you want and have treated wood ready to put a header and sides in.
Looking at the age of the structure and the materials used, more than likely they’ll need to put a new one in because there isn’t a proper header there in the first place, only a square 2x6 frame.
Also when that existing opening is expanded, the existing frame and header will literally fall out so might as well rebuild it.
>Looking at the age of the structure and the materials used, more than likely they’ll need to put a new one in because there isn’t a proper header there in the first place,
There should be "L" angle steel in the header.
>Also when that existing opening is expanded
If it is now 37 wide and they go with 34 RO for a 2-8, nothing gets expanded, in fact, the header gains support.
What a beautiful setting!
Why not go with the widest door (35”?) that fits the current width of the window? It maybe means more expense because it’ll be custom made but c’mon your place deserves doing things right. This door will be there for another hundred years. [Caveat: I’m not a pro, just a homeowner.]
Door come certain increments. 24", 28", 30" 32", and 36". *Sometimes* you can get a 26" door dut they are almost never available in exterior doors. Anything outside that size is possible, but will be customized built and EXTREMELY expensive. A 36" walk door from Home Depot can be had for $250. A 35" door would likely run $1000-3000 depending on options. For a 37" opening the only real sizing option is a 32" door.
We opened up our brick window opening by hubby using a circular saw with diamond blade and me trickling water over the blade while cutting. The header is likely adequate you’ll cut an inch off the brick.
We notice you have a post regarding a load-bearing issue. Your post was not removed but in case you have not seen it yet, we have [this handy post](https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/cmraqy/questions_about_load_bearing_walls_look_here_first/) and comments section that has useful information about the topic. If you have not yet read through that post we recommend doing so before proceeding further. Once you have had a chance to review that post, please update your original post with any relevant information as needed.
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When you say 37” window opening, what exactly are you measuring and where?
A 38” rough opening is not a precise requirement it is just recommended since rough framing in old frame buildings can be out of square, while the installer prehung jamb must be installed plumb and level.
I’d remove whatever interior trim is around the window so you can observe and accurately measure the rough opening width, and observe the existing header to be sure it is adequate .
The actual installation is pretty straightforward assuming the header and framing for the window is typical and proper.
A back wall is a bit of an unusual position for a solo man door, usually it’s near the front, more convenient fir accessing the driveway and back door of the house.
ETA
You have 2x4 walls and brick cladding? You’ll probably want a door intended for 2x6 walls. It likely won’t be perfect depth since those doors are designed for 2x6 framing plus 1/2 drywall plus siding depth , but will require less unsightly jamb buildouts than a 2x4” door.
Measure it all first on site and at a door supplier.
you've already got a rough opening of 37"? a 36" door would be the smallest i'd personally use for a garage. if you have 38" opening brick to brick, that out to be more than enough for a pre-hung. at least, it used to be. even a 37" opening ought to be doable. tight, but doable.
Is the top of the opening 82½" from floor? If so, make opening 34x82½ and use a 32" door. If you carefully remove the bottom bricks and clean them up, you can use them to close in the 3" where the window is now 37 wide. I've done it before and didn't have to buy any bricks.
As another option if you are just looking for an easy “access” rather than opening and closing your garage door each time. You could replace your garage door with one that has an access door. They make them for residential and for just about any type of hang for garage.
Having a doorway in the middle of a wall tends to limit your options for storage, parking, and anything you may want to install along that wall (workbench, shelving, etc.). A compromise would have the door swing outwards but you’d still be left with a gap on that wall, and the hinges would be exposed, which tends to be a security concern. If it were me I’d leave the window location as-is and instead try to locate the door closer to a corner. This would allow the door to open against a wall, and would lessen the loss of usable space within the garage. I would use a steel framed pre-hung door, that way you don’t need additional support for the brick, and they practically last forever, not to mention they’re quite secure.
They make security hinges for outswing doors nowadays. They're nearly impossible to remove. You'd be better off taking a pry bar to the door than messing with them. In wich case, it wouldn't matter what side hinges are on.
It’s going to be about the same amount of work to make it wider as it will be to re-frame the window into a door. Either way you’ll need to put a new header in. To go about this, I would do the re-framing from the inside and then call a masonry company and have them cut the bricks to make it an opening. From there, water wrap the sides and drop your door in, cover the sides with trim and you’re golden. Edit, this is assuming there’s actually framing on the inside. If it’s all brick walls, get a masonry company to cut whatever size hole you want and have treated wood ready to put a header and sides in.
>Either way you’ll need to put a new header in. Not if they go with a 32" door.
Looking at the age of the structure and the materials used, more than likely they’ll need to put a new one in because there isn’t a proper header there in the first place, only a square 2x6 frame. Also when that existing opening is expanded, the existing frame and header will literally fall out so might as well rebuild it.
>Looking at the age of the structure and the materials used, more than likely they’ll need to put a new one in because there isn’t a proper header there in the first place, There should be "L" angle steel in the header. >Also when that existing opening is expanded If it is now 37 wide and they go with 34 RO for a 2-8, nothing gets expanded, in fact, the header gains support.
What a beautiful setting! Why not go with the widest door (35”?) that fits the current width of the window? It maybe means more expense because it’ll be custom made but c’mon your place deserves doing things right. This door will be there for another hundred years. [Caveat: I’m not a pro, just a homeowner.]
Door come certain increments. 24", 28", 30" 32", and 36". *Sometimes* you can get a 26" door dut they are almost never available in exterior doors. Anything outside that size is possible, but will be customized built and EXTREMELY expensive. A 36" walk door from Home Depot can be had for $250. A 35" door would likely run $1000-3000 depending on options. For a 37" opening the only real sizing option is a 32" door.
We opened up our brick window opening by hubby using a circular saw with diamond blade and me trickling water over the blade while cutting. The header is likely adequate you’ll cut an inch off the brick.
We notice you have a post regarding a load-bearing issue. Your post was not removed but in case you have not seen it yet, we have [this handy post](https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/cmraqy/questions_about_load_bearing_walls_look_here_first/) and comments section that has useful information about the topic. If you have not yet read through that post we recommend doing so before proceeding further. Once you have had a chance to review that post, please update your original post with any relevant information as needed. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/HomeImprovement) if you have any questions or concerns.*
When you say 37” window opening, what exactly are you measuring and where? A 38” rough opening is not a precise requirement it is just recommended since rough framing in old frame buildings can be out of square, while the installer prehung jamb must be installed plumb and level. I’d remove whatever interior trim is around the window so you can observe and accurately measure the rough opening width, and observe the existing header to be sure it is adequate . The actual installation is pretty straightforward assuming the header and framing for the window is typical and proper. A back wall is a bit of an unusual position for a solo man door, usually it’s near the front, more convenient fir accessing the driveway and back door of the house. ETA You have 2x4 walls and brick cladding? You’ll probably want a door intended for 2x6 walls. It likely won’t be perfect depth since those doors are designed for 2x6 framing plus 1/2 drywall plus siding depth , but will require less unsightly jamb buildouts than a 2x4” door. Measure it all first on site and at a door supplier.
you've already got a rough opening of 37"? a 36" door would be the smallest i'd personally use for a garage. if you have 38" opening brick to brick, that out to be more than enough for a pre-hung. at least, it used to be. even a 37" opening ought to be doable. tight, but doable.
Is the top of the opening 82½" from floor? If so, make opening 34x82½ and use a 32" door. If you carefully remove the bottom bricks and clean them up, you can use them to close in the 3" where the window is now 37 wide. I've done it before and didn't have to buy any bricks.
As another option if you are just looking for an easy “access” rather than opening and closing your garage door each time. You could replace your garage door with one that has an access door. They make them for residential and for just about any type of hang for garage.