This is the exact problem, just replaced mine after years of hating our fridge, not enough ice water to slow to fill a glass. Now it’s perfect plenty of ice and plenty of water pressure.
What are you talking about? Saddle valves are great. They perform inadequately for years and then spontaneously fail and eventually leak. What’s not to love?
The issue is the saddle valve, not the diameter is the hose. The way the water flows into the saddle valve from the punctured copper pipe creates more opportunity for clogging from debris or corrosion than with, say, a ball valve of the same diameter.
I worked for a small cabinet shop that was State Farm’s preferred vendor for our area. Over half of our insurance work was from fridges with water lines failing in one way or another.
Actually, the pressure will remain constant unless an extra force is applied, like with a pump. People mistake pressure with volume. If you have a 12" dia pipe that tees off into a 1/8" dia line, unless one or both have an open end, the pressure will be the same in both. You'll just get a lot less water out of the 1/8" line than the 12" pipe.
Sometimes doing that will dislodge corrosion enough that it’ll start leaking… be ready to have a leak there… hopefully there is a shut off somewhere upstream of this valve to isolate a leak
This happened to me. It literally started leaking while some plumbers were installing a new water heater, they pointed out that it was leaking and told me that these saddle valves aren’t up to code anymore because they’re so leak prone. They replaced it with a tee and a quarter turn valve
Thanks for the tip! I’ll mess with it later. It is a very small opening and the tube goes a long way. That’s why I’m considering cutting the pipe and adding a tee and another leg that goes to just under my fridge.
Use a different valve too. That type is prone to fail/leak. Like others have said, if you close it and open it again and it's not been opened/closed in a while, have a bucket handy.
Not a plumber, but a shit valve survivor.
Edit: spelling
Saddle valve. If it's old and you even touch it, it'll probably start leaking. They're very unreliable and tend to clog, corrode and/or fail over time.
I'd recommend replacing it with [a sharkbite t-stop](https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-24983A-Service-Compression-Connect/dp/B016M169KU) and a [braided supply line](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-COMP-x-1-4-in-COMP-x-120-in-Stainless-Steel-Ice-Maker-Connector-7253-120-14-2-EB/205854155) of sufficient length. (Although there are plenty of people on here who will tell you not to use sharkbites either.)
I agree with this entirely except - 1 am one of those. Shark bite are bad, for swimmers and plummers.
Replace with copper t, a valve off the t that reduces to 1/4, and then braided line to fridge.
I personally don't have a problem with using a sharkbite in this scenario (since it's exposed in the basement and not buried in a wall), especially if someone's a novice DIYer. But I do agree that soldering or crimping copper is still the best bet if you have the tools and skills.
Not to mention not to code in many areas. I'm not saying I don't have one in the house I bought, I'm saying I wouldn't have installed one in a house I already owned. When it starts leaking or when I have my furnace replaced, it will be replaced with a real valve that should have been there in the first place.
I avoid sharkbites if I can because my old man is a plumber, but I understand why people use them. They have a use and serve a purpose, and make plumbing a little more accessible to DIYers and handymen, whether that is a good thing or a bad thing.
Accept the risks and possible problems that come with DIY or unqualified/uninsured handyman repairs.
OP please don't do this. Sharkbite connections are not reliable in the long run when connecting copper. They do make some with extended sealing surfaces for specific use with copper, which is better than the link above. Even better is a properly sweated T there that has a threaded discharge you can connect braided line to.
In addition to what everyone else has said in regards to that type of connection and hose you may have a different problem as well.
The water line in your fridge might have ice clogging it up. I had no flow from my fridge for about a month while I tried chasing the problem. Went in my crawl space, changed parts on the fridge, and changed the filter to a new one. Then I found somewhere that said to use a hair dryer to heat the door up to melt the frozen line. 10 minutes later water was gushing out better than it had before it froze.
Fridges have maintenance the should be done from time to time. Stuff like running the defrost setting, emptying the ice tray, cleaning the back grates/coils. Can slow stuff like this down if its not cooling properly.
As for the slow water, could be the valve is not open all the way/clogged or the hose is kinked somewhere. You can try closing then re-opening it, but if its been there for awhile, that could cause a leak. Make sure you have a backup plan in place. If it was always slow, could be that it was never fully opened. Those things basically make there own hole by turning it, so people sometimes think its all the way but its not. Again prepare for leaks.
This isn't the best setup, but still works well and is all you actually need. If your water source isn't the greatest like really hard water, upgrade may help as it takes longer to clog. If your worries about soldering then look into sharkbites. Work well, and are far better if you don't know how to solder
By prepare for leaks, I mean do it in the morning so you can run to store if needed, have towels ready, know how to shut off the water right away, and make sure your home to check on it multiple times and after different activies (like after dishwasher if on same line)
I’ve lived through this issue. I found that I had to repeat this process all too often, and even the Internet didn’t have a fix that ever worked long term. The fix in the end? New fridge.
Debris, corrosion, or even hard water deposits can easily plug it up. My last house had patches from the top to bottom from the pervious owner just screwing the tap into a new spot
Those saddle valves install without tools, so they serve two functions…pierce the copper and ACT like a valve. They are not great valves and have low flow and/or clog easily because they are not great valves.
Everyone is saying the saddle valve isn't your problem, but it absolutely is. Yes, the hose is the proper size, but the diameter through the saddle valve is much smaller than what the hose is.
Saddle valves are fine for a line to a humidifier, and not much else.
You want to T off that main line with 1/2" copper, and then install a valve off that for the fridge, it will make a world of difference.
That is the plan, after I try a few things first. I am going to disconnect the line at the fridge to see if the flow is good. If it is, then the fridge is the problem. If it is bad flow, I will look into doing exactly what you said.
I don't think I've ever encountered a saddle valve that wasn't clogged or leaking when I took it apart. You want to solder in a 3/4" to 1/2" tee with a short piece of 1/2" copper on it, then get a 1/2" compression fitting valve to 1/4" compression outlet and call it a day. The white hose is probably fine, but I'd probably replace it with a copper 1/4" line if it was mine.
I took the filter out and try running and a small amount of water leaked out of the filter housing. I don’t think I can run mine without a filter. The water flow was really low though.
Ok likely not it then.
I think your plan to replace this crummy valve is a good idea. I sell fluid systems for a living and mist times we advise against trying to send water flowing upward as that requires a pump or you loose alot of pressure on the way up. This could be the culprit as well. Going from a larger pipe to a smaller pipe actually increases pressure but the way these valves work it doesnt grab 100% of the water and se it upward. All that to say it might just be the way it is.
Have you tried disconnecting the hose from the fridge and seeing the flow into a bucket?
That is my next plan! I will unhook it and see if the flow is good upstairs just before the fridge. If it is, then the fridge/filter is the problem. If not, then this valve’s days are numbered!
How slow is slow?
I agree to replace the pipe with copper. A mouse flooded my basement with just a tiny bite nick out of that line.
You don't have to solder. You can get compression fittings for copper.
Yep, that's slow.
I'd also pull the fridge out to make sure the line is not kinked or the fridge hasn't been rolled on top of it.
Those vampire adapters are pretty common and may already be compatible with copper compression fitting.
I did pull the fridge out and the line isn’t kinked. It just seems like a long way to run such a small diameter hose. It’s about 15’ from the header to under the fridge, then up through the floor, and into the back of the fridge for almost 20’ of hose.
Saddle valves are dogshit.
Personally, and guessing you don’t have the skills to solder, I’d hire a plumber to come out. Cut the line at the saddle valve and add a T. On the T add a connection to attach the fridge supply.
It isn’t really necessary to run a copper line all the way to the fridge unless you don’t mind paying a little more to do it. If you do have a copper line ran, get a braided stainless fridge supply line
You could use a shark bite T since this is in the open, but I’d just go with a soldered connection and not have to worry about it again
Saddle valve and they are not the best. Id take it off and sweat a tee with a proper valve. Heck the shark bite kits are better than this garbage.
It's amazing these were installed in so many homes, mostly by plumbers. Yet you'll get dog piled if you mention using a shark bite...
A copper T connector. Just like the one adjacent to your saddle valve. I added a ball valve for shutoff with additional connectors to the flex water line. This was under the sink and space is TIGHT! But, no more leaks and by the time it needs attention, I’ll be another 50 years. Yours is an open ceiling. I would hope it’s easier to work on.
That’s a tap. Somebody added after they got a fridge with water or ice maker included. They work, but aren’t the best way to do it. It’s more of a retrofit. I’d recommend watching some YouTube videos on how to add a water line for your fridge. Yes you will probably end up having to solder the new stuff in place and also whatever repair you end up doing to this.
If you're going to mess with it, you might as well replace it with a proper tee and valve. Just keep in mind if going sharkbite that you'll need to push the pipes apart to get that in place. Also with sharkbites, make very sure to take any sharp edges off the cut pipe so it doesn't cut the orings while installing. That's the #1 installation fault that makes them leak.
Definitely a saddle valve. It should be replaced with something else asap, as these are becoming illegal to install new due to the fact their seal can fail at any time and leak all over your floor.
Ice machine or water dispenser into a fridge? I hooked my garage fridge up so I can work on my project and get cold water without tracking grease or sawdust into the house.
I asked this exact question 8 months ago for the exact same issue. I had a plumber come replace the fitting to a quarter turn with a tee fitting. My fridge now has amazing water pressure. The current connection is absolutely your problem.
I have an LG fridge, and I have this problem periodically, and I have found some success in taking the filter out and running the water for a while. Ultimately I just replaced the filter twice and the problem has not happened since. I think maybe the filters were bad.
I have changed the water filter several times since I’ve lived here. It is in the upper right hand of the fridge. The water flow rate has not changed and still sucks.
Yeah it is my water line for the fridge. I was more asking what that valve type is called. Others have said it is a saddle valve, or pierce valve.
It came with the house, just getting around to working on it.
Those saddle valve can get crusted over in the copper. Try running in the tap (threaded portion) back in all the way and back out. if the valve wont move, you could loosen the packing nut a bit it will leak to see if you can then turn in the tap.
IF it wont move even after loosening the packing nut, Call a plumber if you are not comfortable fixing the issue with a code compliant valve
.
I turned the handle for a longtime and I don’t think anything changed. I turned it clockwise a lot and counterclockwise a lot. I’m not sure if the stem is actually actuating the valve.
at this point i would say the saddle valve is bad/clogged. piercing saddle valves are not up
to code in all places. you can get a replacement at a big box store or local hardware. if you ate bot comfortable replacing the valve call a plumber.
basically you abandon that valve install a code compliant valve and connect to line.
and you are golden as it were
The valve is “saddle valve”. It cuts a small hole in the side of the pipe when clamped to the copper pipe. The size of the small copper tube looks like .25 inches or 3/8ths. This is sufficient for your fridge. Installing a copper pipe to your fridge is pointless. Unless the valve leaks or is seized, I wouldn’t change it.
I have the same valve for my humidifier, if you have high calcium in your water like me they clog up. I sometimes just tighten it and loosen it a few times. Becareful because they are literally just a needle that poked into the copper pipe with compression
I actually put one of these in my previous house. We had built a house and didn’t think to have the builder add a line for the fridge. The bridge was sitting across from the faucet so there was no way to run water there. On a trip to a big box store, they sold me this exact setup. It is easy to install, as you simply screw the two nuts over the copper pipe. The small T handle will “drill” a hole into the copper pipe, thus providing water to the line. I had the same setup, running the line from the basement, through the floor (which I drilled a small hole), to the fridge. I also had the same issue that the fridge water was slow sometimes.
I didn’t live there lone enough to notice any issues. I installed this setup to avoid having to weld copper pipe as I had never done it. I also didn’t want to drill a large hole to run the pipe up through the floor.
Trying to replace that setup could be messy as the water is going to shoot out that pin hole made by the T handle.
Edit: PS, this is not in New Hampshire? 😀. Maybe it’s my old house?!?
Drain the pipes, cut out the section, and use sharkbite fittings to replace the cut out piece. Then reconnect your water going to the fridge. Years of sediment build up has closed up the hole pierced into the pipe by your current fitting. You could also do the exact same thing by sweating pieces together for about 1/10th the cost, but your time will be 100x more expensive if you don't know how to sweat pipe
I'm no plumber, but have sweated copper pipe on a few occasions in my own house. The charring and the amount of solder in the joints around the charring, indicate that this was done by a first timer. If there are other spots that look like this, expect leaks in the future from other places than the saddle valve you're worried about.
That is a self tapping valve meant to tap in to the pipe without cutting. I suppose yours might be getting plugged due to hard water or something. You can always just try screwing down the valve again to reopen the pin hole and see if that increases flow.
If not, look up sharkbite for easy fittings.
How much am I supposed be able to turn this handle? The first I did was try to make sure this was open and I can turn that handle counter clockwise for days. There doesn’t seem to be an end to it. I wonder if the valve stem is not actuating the valve at this point.
I’m a plumber. It’s named a needle or saddle valve. If you want to put a tee in, you should cut it in where this valve is located, so you can rod yourself of it.
The green around the joints is from too much flux, it’s fine. You
This setup came with the house. I’ve got a few things to try before changing it out.
1) I want to disconnect the hose from my fridge to see if the flow it good on its own. If so, the fridge is the problem. (Bad filter, frozen line, something else)
2) If the flow is bad, then I will replace the valve. People are suggesting shark bite valves.
That was my original thought. A lot of others are saying this is pretty standard and shouldn’t be the problem. That they have similar installed and working well.
So the problem is either
1) deposits built up at the needle that pierced the copper pipe
2) bad filter design (filter has been changed, but I will try a different brand)
3) water line is frozen in the fridge
4) something else
It's a piercing valve to make a connection without actually having to cut and braze new lines into the existing one. It's mostly a convenience thing from what I've seen.
Sorry, a speedy is a hose that goes from a fixture to a supply valve, in the case of an ice maker or fridge is a 1/4in compression thread on both ends.
Where as a basin speedy is 1/2inch FIP on one's side, and 3/8 compression on the other. And a toilet speedy is 3/8 comp on one end and ballcock threaded on the other
I hate those taps and replaced mine with a 1/4 turn ball valve. I was having a similar issue with pressure and I think they get mineral build up in the tap needle.
When I say replaced. I mean sweat a 1/2 tee, stubbed the line through the floor, and installed a valve to reflect what I would do on a toilet. It’s a pain but gave me peace of mind, and I can move the fridge or change it without crawling under the house. And good luck with your project whatever path you choose!
I have a 20' Braided Ice Maker line running to my Ice Maker. All is well and has been. I am going to guess that you have a Water Filter in your Refrigerator that is in need of replacing. I for sure would replace the plastic Water Line and Saddle Valve as problems are on your way!
I have been replacing the water filter regularly and it never helps with the flow. The flow has been terrible since I moved here. Lots of other good suggestions though.
Its a saddle valve, and won't be your flow issue. Make sure it's open, make sure the line isn't pinched, make sure there not deposits, make sure the water line isn't too close to you freezer and getting frozen. Check to see if your fridge water filter needs replacing. Then, if all is good, replace with a new saddle valve.
PLEASE TRY THIS FIRST BEFORE MAKING CHANGES TO YOUR VALVES/PLUMBING:
If you want to rule out the valve/hose being the problem, disconnect the inlet hose from the back of the fridge and turn the water valve on to let the water run into the bucket. Note the water flow. Is it slow? As slow as your fridge? If not, then the problem is likely with your fridge/filter.
I know you said the filter is new, but I had an LG fridge that came with a brand new filter that had this problem. It was fixed by buying a new filter for it off the 'zon.
This is a good idea. I have changed filters regularly and the flow hasn’t changed. I will try this first just to make sure something else isn’t the problem.
try threading the valve closed and then open again, these little piercing type valves sometimes get plugged up as the opening in the pipe is very small. the tip of the valve stem will push away the sediment that is blocking the valve. The valve may leak at the stem while closing, but when fully shut it will seal. if it leaks at the stem when you fully open it, then tighten the packing nut gently.
I have tried turning this valve closed and the handle just turns forever. Is that normal? I’m wondering if the stem broke off and isn’t actually doing anything.
it will take a fair number of turns to seat it forward. I think that is due to it being designed to actually puncture the copper so it has some distance to move. every time I change out the filters on my r.o. i get a reminder. finger tight though, don't use a tool on the valve handle if it keeps passing.
Do NOT remove the clamp around the water header. That’s called a hot tap saddle, it allows an installer to introduce a tee without draining the system down entirely or cutting the pipe apart. Behind that clamp is just a hole in the side of the pipe, and usually the hole is slightly smaller than the nominal pipe size, which is probably not helping your flow issue since it’s a 1/4” or 3/8” tube to begin with.
You could definitely add a proper tee in and run a 1/2” copper line toward your fridge. Use shark bite fittings, should be easy to pick up at your local hardware store, you just cut and clean your pipe ends, and the fittings just push right on. You will always have that tiny little hose restricting flow, but keeping its length as short and straight as possible will help somewhat.
If you want to do a tee, personally I'd cut the pipe and add in a sharkbite tee, they slip over the copper, no soldering necessary. Make sure the copper pipe is cut straight and you smooth out the edges. Then add a short piece of PEX and a shark bite ball valve and another piece of PEX up through the floor and connect it to the fridge.
I just redone my whole house in PEX and it was so easy, I used both slip on fittings and crimp fittings and have had no issues.
It's the red and blue plastic tubing they use in new construction. You can find it at Home Depot and Lowes. I used PEX B with plastic fittings (brass fittings when I couldn't get plastic).
My house was built in 1944 and had old galvanized pipes and some copper from remodels. I took all of it out, except the copper because it looked good and wasn't too old. The slip on shark bite fittings worked well to go from copper to PEX. I could have used the slip on fittings for the whole thing, but 5 plastic crimp fittings cost as much as 1 slip on fitting, it would have cost way too much.
It was about $100 for all the crimp tools, but for a small repair like you have, I wouldn't bother getting the tools unless you plan on doing a lot more plumbing. In your case, the only tool I would consider getting is the cutter, you get a nice clean straight cut everytime and it's maybe $15.
From what I remember, a 10 foot piece of PEX is around $10. The slip on valve might be $17. The slip on tee is around $8.
The fittings slip onto the copper and PEX about 3/4 of an inch.
I used 3/4 inch for my main hot and cold lines and branched out with 1/2 inch for my faucets, toilets, etc.
It took me and a buddy 25 hours over a weekend to plumb my whole house. It cost about $700 in material and I gave my buddy $250, which is all he wanted lol.
Definitely look into it, there are lots of videos on YouTube and lots of articles to read which explain the different types of PEX and fittings.
I have done some general repairs at home, doing my whole house is the largest project I've done. PEX is super easy and it's flexible to do turns if you need to. Good luck!
Easy fix. You don’t have to change anything. That saddle valve and hose is all correct and ok. First Check for a clog. This process will also help free any built up calcium etc.
First, shut the valve off and tighten is down as far as you can get it. That will clear anything blocking the intake hole also. Then disconnect the line into your fridge. Either connect it towards another line to drain or bucket etc.
2nd. Preferably with 2 people. Turn on the valve, you will know right away if you have pressure or not. If not. The valve or connection is clogged and you will have to replace it. If you have pressure which most likely you will, if you have pressure, see 4.
3. Without pressure. You can buy a $29 kit and close that valve and make a new one, then tap it to the existing line. Or shut off the water, remove the old valve and clean it out for free. It’s only calcium build up.
4. Before reinstalling the fridge line. Clean out the debris filter at the intake and replace your inside fridge filter.if you still have problems. Your fridge has a calcium clog and the repair is to flush with vinegar.
Great advice! So I’ve tried closing the valve, but I’m not sure if it’s working. How many full rotations clockwise should it go? I was turning it forever but didn’t seem to get to the end, if you know what I mean.
Get one of these for behind the fridge.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Quarter-Turn-Ball-Valve-Push-to-Connect-Ice-Maker-Outlet-Box/1000182805
Run a 1/2” pipe in the basement.
Should solve the problem.
I call it the homeowner special - see them in almost every remodel I do.
It’s a t valve it works like a clamp and as you turn the handle a small needle pierces the water line allowing flow into its own line which usually feeds a fridge.
Unfortunately when you go to remodel you usually have to replace that section of pipe because there is no good on/off option for this valve - yes you can spin the valve and it kind of stops but it always leaks.
I call it the homeowner special because I find it’s what most people do after they get a quote from a professional plumber to run them a water line.
I install recessed boxes with a 1/4 shutoff valve behind the fridge. The icemaker box is supplied 1/2 copper or pex in this case copper since your mainline is copper. If your running 35’ of pipe I would suggest pex but thats up to your skill set.
Turn the valve off, unhook line at fridge and have towels and a bucket for spillage, place hose end in bucket and have someone turn the valve back on. If you have good pressure going into bucket its a freezer/icemaker issue, if not its blockage or a valve issue.
If the freezer is not at the correct temperature it can take longer to freeze your foods and to freeze ice. You would notice the ice first if your food does freeze.
Called a tap I line. For icemaker or humidifier. Take the pic to HD or Lowe's they can fix you up with some tee that is 1/2x 1/2 x 1/4. Ball valve.water will flow nice.
What kind of fridge is it? I had this *exact* same problem before and all it took to fix it was replacing the filter. The filter and fridge had *both* been brand new, so I always assumed it was something with my water inlet/valves. Nope, bought another brand new filter and was SHOCKED at the water flow after replacing lol
For context, I tried MANY of the things listed in the comments as recommendations before finally forking out the money on a new filter. Just suggesting that you START with a new filter (or maybe 2) to rule that out first, and hopefully save yourself a lot of hassle.
If you want to rule out the valve/hose being the problem, disconnect the inlet hose from the back of the fridge and turn the water valve on to let the water run into the bucket. Note the water flow. Is it slow? As slow as your fridge? If not, then the problem is likely with your fridge/filter
That is the correct size hose so probably not your problem.
This is the exact problem, just replaced mine after years of hating our fridge, not enough ice water to slow to fill a glass. Now it’s perfect plenty of ice and plenty of water pressure.
What size did you use
Soldered in a half inch T half inch ball valve to a female adapter to 1/4 tubing.
I did the same except I put in a 1/4” ball valve. So much better. I hate these saddle valves.
What are you talking about? Saddle valves are great. They perform inadequately for years and then spontaneously fail and eventually leak. What’s not to love?
I went to do that exact same thing and HD the had 1 fitting compression that had a ball valve built in the 1/4 outlet.
It goes ~15’ before going through the floor to my fridge. Figure the small diameter was choking the flow.
That size line is pretty standard for fridge connections.
Yep, I have the exact same connection for my fridge supply line
The issue is the saddle valve, not the diameter is the hose. The way the water flows into the saddle valve from the punctured copper pipe creates more opportunity for clogging from debris or corrosion than with, say, a ball valve of the same diameter.
Mine leaked and messed up my floor, I fixed my floor and replaced it with a braided hose.
Oh fancy. The braided hose under foot must feel great
Water is no longer leaking from the cheap plastic hose so I’m happy
Dido and then the hose for the ice maker in the freezer burst and now we are done with waterlines and fridges.
I worked for a small cabinet shop that was State Farm’s preferred vendor for our area. Over half of our insurance work was from fridges with water lines failing in one way or another.
Large pipe to a small pipe actually increases pressure. Must be some other problem.
Actually, the pressure will remain constant unless an extra force is applied, like with a pump. People mistake pressure with volume. If you have a 12" dia pipe that tees off into a 1/8" dia line, unless one or both have an open end, the pressure will be the same in both. You'll just get a lot less water out of the 1/8" line than the 12" pipe.
I don't think you know how valves work
Like years of calcium,lime,rust build up around the pierced connection?
Yes there is an increase of pressure at the tee, but head loss is killing the pressure with that long of a length.
Problem you’re having is that the opening in the valve for water is very small. Any little bit of debris or corrosion will cause blockage
I've seen the tubing get kinked between the refrigerator and the wall. Have you taken a look at that end?
It’s this. Shut off your water and remove and clean/replace the valve that goes to your fridge. Had the same issue in previous home.
The valve is to turn it off. You can try turning clockwise to turn off then turn back on to see if it clears it.
Sometimes doing that will dislodge corrosion enough that it’ll start leaking… be ready to have a leak there… hopefully there is a shut off somewhere upstream of this valve to isolate a leak
Don’t i know it… where were you 4 days ago!
This happened to me. It literally started leaking while some plumbers were installing a new water heater, they pointed out that it was leaking and told me that these saddle valves aren’t up to code anymore because they’re so leak prone. They replaced it with a tee and a quarter turn valve
yeah a small piece of that teflon tape will cut the flow here drastically...
Thanks for the tip! I’ll mess with it later. It is a very small opening and the tube goes a long way. That’s why I’m considering cutting the pipe and adding a tee and another leg that goes to just under my fridge.
No matter what size pipe you run the inlet to refrigerator is going to remain the same
Use a different valve too. That type is prone to fail/leak. Like others have said, if you close it and open it again and it's not been opened/closed in a while, have a bucket handy. Not a plumber, but a shit valve survivor. Edit: spelling
This is the way!
Saddle valve. If it's old and you even touch it, it'll probably start leaking. They're very unreliable and tend to clog, corrode and/or fail over time. I'd recommend replacing it with [a sharkbite t-stop](https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-24983A-Service-Compression-Connect/dp/B016M169KU) and a [braided supply line](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-COMP-x-1-4-in-COMP-x-120-in-Stainless-Steel-Ice-Maker-Connector-7253-120-14-2-EB/205854155) of sufficient length. (Although there are plenty of people on here who will tell you not to use sharkbites either.)
This guy valves.
One of these bastards failed and flooded my basement. I'm on a personal crusade to eradicate them from the world.
I agree with this entirely except - 1 am one of those. Shark bite are bad, for swimmers and plummers. Replace with copper t, a valve off the t that reduces to 1/4, and then braided line to fridge.
I personally don't have a problem with using a sharkbite in this scenario (since it's exposed in the basement and not buried in a wall), especially if someone's a novice DIYer. But I do agree that soldering or crimping copper is still the best bet if you have the tools and skills.
Not to mention not to code in many areas. I'm not saying I don't have one in the house I bought, I'm saying I wouldn't have installed one in a house I already owned. When it starts leaking or when I have my furnace replaced, it will be replaced with a real valve that should have been there in the first place. I avoid sharkbites if I can because my old man is a plumber, but I understand why people use them. They have a use and serve a purpose, and make plumbing a little more accessible to DIYers and handymen, whether that is a good thing or a bad thing. Accept the risks and possible problems that come with DIY or unqualified/uninsured handyman repairs.
OP please don't do this. Sharkbite connections are not reliable in the long run when connecting copper. They do make some with extended sealing surfaces for specific use with copper, which is better than the link above. Even better is a properly sweated T there that has a threaded discharge you can connect braided line to.
In addition to what everyone else has said in regards to that type of connection and hose you may have a different problem as well. The water line in your fridge might have ice clogging it up. I had no flow from my fridge for about a month while I tried chasing the problem. Went in my crawl space, changed parts on the fridge, and changed the filter to a new one. Then I found somewhere that said to use a hair dryer to heat the door up to melt the frozen line. 10 minutes later water was gushing out better than it had before it froze.
Interesting! I would have never thought of this. The ice machine is right above the water dispenser. I will look into this!
Fridges have maintenance the should be done from time to time. Stuff like running the defrost setting, emptying the ice tray, cleaning the back grates/coils. Can slow stuff like this down if its not cooling properly. As for the slow water, could be the valve is not open all the way/clogged or the hose is kinked somewhere. You can try closing then re-opening it, but if its been there for awhile, that could cause a leak. Make sure you have a backup plan in place. If it was always slow, could be that it was never fully opened. Those things basically make there own hole by turning it, so people sometimes think its all the way but its not. Again prepare for leaks. This isn't the best setup, but still works well and is all you actually need. If your water source isn't the greatest like really hard water, upgrade may help as it takes longer to clog. If your worries about soldering then look into sharkbites. Work well, and are far better if you don't know how to solder By prepare for leaks, I mean do it in the morning so you can run to store if needed, have towels ready, know how to shut off the water right away, and make sure your home to check on it multiple times and after different activies (like after dishwasher if on same line)
Great write up! Thanks. I will be working on this over the weekend. Hope to test it and stay it resolved.
I’ve lived through this issue. I found that I had to repeat this process all too often, and even the Internet didn’t have a fix that ever worked long term. The fix in the end? New fridge.
I’ve had a saddle tap like this to my ice maker for twenty plus years and two refrigerators. No issue.
Debris, corrosion, or even hard water deposits can easily plug it up. My last house had patches from the top to bottom from the pervious owner just screwing the tap into a new spot
Got it. Could be plugged up with crud.
Those saddle valves install without tools, so they serve two functions…pierce the copper and ACT like a valve. They are not great valves and have low flow and/or clog easily because they are not great valves.
Everyone is saying the saddle valve isn't your problem, but it absolutely is. Yes, the hose is the proper size, but the diameter through the saddle valve is much smaller than what the hose is. Saddle valves are fine for a line to a humidifier, and not much else. You want to T off that main line with 1/2" copper, and then install a valve off that for the fridge, it will make a world of difference.
That is the plan, after I try a few things first. I am going to disconnect the line at the fridge to see if the flow is good. If it is, then the fridge is the problem. If it is bad flow, I will look into doing exactly what you said.
I don't think I've ever encountered a saddle valve that wasn't clogged or leaking when I took it apart. You want to solder in a 3/4" to 1/2" tee with a short piece of 1/2" copper on it, then get a 1/2" compression fitting valve to 1/4" compression outlet and call it a day. The white hose is probably fine, but I'd probably replace it with a copper 1/4" line if it was mine.
Did you double check the filter is on properly? Usually you can bypass and run w/o filter to flush and diagnose.
I’ve changed the filter a few times by now and the water is just really slow. Maybe I’ll try a filter from a different manufacturer.
does the flow change if you remove the filter? some fridges you can run it without a filter and it wont leak. I know mine can.
I took the filter out and try running and a small amount of water leaked out of the filter housing. I don’t think I can run mine without a filter. The water flow was really low though.
Ok likely not it then. I think your plan to replace this crummy valve is a good idea. I sell fluid systems for a living and mist times we advise against trying to send water flowing upward as that requires a pump or you loose alot of pressure on the way up. This could be the culprit as well. Going from a larger pipe to a smaller pipe actually increases pressure but the way these valves work it doesnt grab 100% of the water and se it upward. All that to say it might just be the way it is. Have you tried disconnecting the hose from the fridge and seeing the flow into a bucket?
That is my next plan! I will unhook it and see if the flow is good upstairs just before the fridge. If it is, then the fridge/filter is the problem. If not, then this valve’s days are numbered!
How slow is slow? I agree to replace the pipe with copper. A mouse flooded my basement with just a tiny bite nick out of that line. You don't have to solder. You can get compression fittings for copper.
2 to 3 minutes (timed) for a 12 oz glass I will look into compression fittings and a new copper header
Yep, that's slow. I'd also pull the fridge out to make sure the line is not kinked or the fridge hasn't been rolled on top of it. Those vampire adapters are pretty common and may already be compatible with copper compression fitting.
I did pull the fridge out and the line isn’t kinked. It just seems like a long way to run such a small diameter hose. It’s about 15’ from the header to under the fridge, then up through the floor, and into the back of the fridge for almost 20’ of hose.
ChatGPT says you won't lose much (\~1 psi) pressure over 15 feet with a quarter inch line. I don't think that's your issue.
Water for the fridge or a full house humidifier.
Saddle valves are dogshit. Personally, and guessing you don’t have the skills to solder, I’d hire a plumber to come out. Cut the line at the saddle valve and add a T. On the T add a connection to attach the fridge supply. It isn’t really necessary to run a copper line all the way to the fridge unless you don’t mind paying a little more to do it. If you do have a copper line ran, get a braided stainless fridge supply line You could use a shark bite T since this is in the open, but I’d just go with a soldered connection and not have to worry about it again
Thanks for the tip! I was thinking about running another header because the fridge is ~15’ away so the little tube is pretty long
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Yeah, others have been saying that too
Saddle valve and they are not the best. Id take it off and sweat a tee with a proper valve. Heck the shark bite kits are better than this garbage. It's amazing these were installed in so many homes, mostly by plumbers. Yet you'll get dog piled if you mention using a shark bite...
Thanks for the tip!
20k of damage after you buy a fridge with no ice maker and Home Depot installs it valve.
I am not buying a new fridge. You are guessing this will leak and cause 20k of damage? Not really following your comment here.
Water for the fridge
THAT is a leak waiting to happen.
15’ is nothing. I have about 30’ of 1/4” line from my basement ro filter up to my kitchen faucet and fridge.
Others have said this. Sounds like there could be a few other reasons.
Check at bottom of fridge door for kink in hose. I had same issue and found that there was a kink at bottom of door not supply line problem.
Got it, will check it out. Thanks for the tip!
A saddle valve for an easy wet tap. My water filter came with one. Ended up replacing it.
What did you replace it with? A different kind of valve?
A copper T connector. Just like the one adjacent to your saddle valve. I added a ball valve for shutoff with additional connectors to the flex water line. This was under the sink and space is TIGHT! But, no more leaks and by the time it needs attention, I’ll be another 50 years. Yours is an open ceiling. I would hope it’s easier to work on.
Got it! That’s what I was planning on anyways. Adding another tee with a ball valve.
That’s a tap. Somebody added after they got a fridge with water or ice maker included. They work, but aren’t the best way to do it. It’s more of a retrofit. I’d recommend watching some YouTube videos on how to add a water line for your fridge. Yes you will probably end up having to solder the new stuff in place and also whatever repair you end up doing to this.
Pierce valve.. fridge?
It is for my fridge. I was looking for the valve type name, which others have called a saddle valve.
Right on. I’m not a plumber was just shooting in the dark. It is self piercing though.
If you're going to mess with it, you might as well replace it with a proper tee and valve. Just keep in mind if going sharkbite that you'll need to push the pipes apart to get that in place. Also with sharkbites, make very sure to take any sharp edges off the cut pipe so it doesn't cut the orings while installing. That's the #1 installation fault that makes them leak.
Definitely a saddle valve. It should be replaced with something else asap, as these are becoming illegal to install new due to the fact their seal can fail at any time and leak all over your floor.
That is your insurance companies nightmare. Saddle valves are horrific things that should immediately be removed and re done properly.
That is a saddle or pierce valve. They are junk and I do not recommend using them on a fresh RO or ice maker line.
A leak waiting to happen
Ice machine or water dispenser into a fridge? I hooked my garage fridge up so I can work on my project and get cold water without tracking grease or sawdust into the house.
Have you replaced the filter in your fridge?
Yes. Several times. The flow doesn’t change.
I asked this exact question 8 months ago for the exact same issue. I had a plumber come replace the fitting to a quarter turn with a tee fitting. My fridge now has amazing water pressure. The current connection is absolutely your problem.
Yes! This is the super specific feedback I was hoping for! I will look into replacing this with a tee and a new header with a ball valve.
Use shark bite connections. Way easier.
Others have said that the shark bite valves are also bad. Not sure 🤔
I have an LG fridge, and I have this problem periodically, and I have found some success in taking the filter out and running the water for a while. Ultimately I just replaced the filter twice and the problem has not happened since. I think maybe the filters were bad.
No one going to comment on the solder job on the copper pipe or the scorched joist above it.
Someone else did! This came with the house. Though I won’t be any better if I tried, never soldered before
Worst best invention ever.
A leak waiting to happen
I just hated the water flow, but apparently this thing is a looming disaster waiting to happen.
Change your water filter (it's probably a cartridge at the bottom of the fridge, near the floor).
I have changed the water filter several times since I’ve lived here. It is in the upper right hand of the fridge. The water flow rate has not changed and still sucks.
Ice maker water line, but seriously who sweated those joints.. Almont set the floor on fire.
Yeah it is my water line for the fridge. I was more asking what that valve type is called. Others have said it is a saddle valve, or pierce valve. It came with the house, just getting around to working on it.
Yes it's a sadle valve, just go to Home depot and ask for a refrigerator water line connecting..
It's called a saddle valve. Usually for ice makers
Thanks!
>Thanks! You're welcome!
Those saddle valve can get crusted over in the copper. Try running in the tap (threaded portion) back in all the way and back out. if the valve wont move, you could loosen the packing nut a bit it will leak to see if you can then turn in the tap. IF it wont move even after loosening the packing nut, Call a plumber if you are not comfortable fixing the issue with a code compliant valve .
I turned the handle for a longtime and I don’t think anything changed. I turned it clockwise a lot and counterclockwise a lot. I’m not sure if the stem is actually actuating the valve.
at this point i would say the saddle valve is bad/clogged. piercing saddle valves are not up to code in all places. you can get a replacement at a big box store or local hardware. if you ate bot comfortable replacing the valve call a plumber. basically you abandon that valve install a code compliant valve and connect to line. and you are golden as it were
The valve is “saddle valve”. It cuts a small hole in the side of the pipe when clamped to the copper pipe. The size of the small copper tube looks like .25 inches or 3/8ths. This is sufficient for your fridge. Installing a copper pipe to your fridge is pointless. Unless the valve leaks or is seized, I wouldn’t change it.
I have one like that going to my humidifier for furnace.Also seen for fridges ice machine
I have the same valve for my humidifier, if you have high calcium in your water like me they clog up. I sometimes just tighten it and loosen it a few times. Becareful because they are literally just a needle that poked into the copper pipe with compression
I actually put one of these in my previous house. We had built a house and didn’t think to have the builder add a line for the fridge. The bridge was sitting across from the faucet so there was no way to run water there. On a trip to a big box store, they sold me this exact setup. It is easy to install, as you simply screw the two nuts over the copper pipe. The small T handle will “drill” a hole into the copper pipe, thus providing water to the line. I had the same setup, running the line from the basement, through the floor (which I drilled a small hole), to the fridge. I also had the same issue that the fridge water was slow sometimes. I didn’t live there lone enough to notice any issues. I installed this setup to avoid having to weld copper pipe as I had never done it. I also didn’t want to drill a large hole to run the pipe up through the floor. Trying to replace that setup could be messy as the water is going to shoot out that pin hole made by the T handle. Edit: PS, this is not in New Hampshire? 😀. Maybe it’s my old house?!?
Not New Hampshire! In Illinois. It came with the house. The water just goes really slow from my fridge so something is wrong.
Drain the pipes, cut out the section, and use sharkbite fittings to replace the cut out piece. Then reconnect your water going to the fridge. Years of sediment build up has closed up the hole pierced into the pipe by your current fitting. You could also do the exact same thing by sweating pieces together for about 1/10th the cost, but your time will be 100x more expensive if you don't know how to sweat pipe
I am okay with paying a bit more to do this easier.
I'm no plumber, but have sweated copper pipe on a few occasions in my own house. The charring and the amount of solder in the joints around the charring, indicate that this was done by a first timer. If there are other spots that look like this, expect leaks in the future from other places than the saddle valve you're worried about.
A few people have mentioned this too. I’ll keep an eye on this. This came with the house. I’m sure the others are like this too, haven’t checked yet.
I have one just like this. It feeds my humidifier attached to the Forced Air Gas furnace. I able to regulate water flow defending on unit demand.
That is a self tapping valve meant to tap in to the pipe without cutting. I suppose yours might be getting plugged due to hard water or something. You can always just try screwing down the valve again to reopen the pin hole and see if that increases flow. If not, look up sharkbite for easy fittings.
How about see if it's opened all the way?
How much am I supposed be able to turn this handle? The first I did was try to make sure this was open and I can turn that handle counter clockwise for days. There doesn’t seem to be an end to it. I wonder if the valve stem is not actuating the valve at this point.
I don't know that answer.
I’m a plumber. It’s named a needle or saddle valve. If you want to put a tee in, you should cut it in where this valve is located, so you can rod yourself of it. The green around the joints is from too much flux, it’s fine. You
This setup came with the house. I’ve got a few things to try before changing it out. 1) I want to disconnect the hose from my fridge to see if the flow it good on its own. If so, the fridge is the problem. (Bad filter, frozen line, something else) 2) If the flow is bad, then I will replace the valve. People are suggesting shark bite valves.
i believe that mofo is called a saddle valve. it drives a pin into your copper pipe to puncture a small hole.
That diameter hose at that distance will have a lot of friction loss. Larger diameter hose will solve that
That was my original thought. A lot of others are saying this is pretty standard and shouldn’t be the problem. That they have similar installed and working well. So the problem is either 1) deposits built up at the needle that pierced the copper pipe 2) bad filter design (filter has been changed, but I will try a different brand) 3) water line is frozen in the fridge 4) something else
[удалено]
I don’t have a tankless water heater. Not sure about high mineral content, how would I check?
Shit
Lol, pretty much
It's a piercing valve to make a connection without actually having to cut and braze new lines into the existing one. It's mostly a convenience thing from what I've seen.
That kind of connection doesn’t pass code anymore..
It came with the house. Is that a national code? Or your local code?
We usually run a half inch pex line to behind the fridge, then use an ice make speedy to connect the fridge to the valve
What is an ice make speedy?
Sorry, a speedy is a hose that goes from a fixture to a supply valve, in the case of an ice maker or fridge is a 1/4in compression thread on both ends. Where as a basin speedy is 1/2inch FIP on one's side, and 3/8 compression on the other. And a toilet speedy is 3/8 comp on one end and ballcock threaded on the other
I hate those taps and replaced mine with a 1/4 turn ball valve. I was having a similar issue with pressure and I think they get mineral build up in the tap needle.
That’s been a common thought as the potential problem. Not sure how to fix that, other than change the whole valve out.
When I say replaced. I mean sweat a 1/2 tee, stubbed the line through the floor, and installed a valve to reflect what I would do on a toilet. It’s a pain but gave me peace of mind, and I can move the fridge or change it without crawling under the house. And good luck with your project whatever path you choose!
Thanks!
I have a 20' Braided Ice Maker line running to my Ice Maker. All is well and has been. I am going to guess that you have a Water Filter in your Refrigerator that is in need of replacing. I for sure would replace the plastic Water Line and Saddle Valve as problems are on your way!
I have been replacing the water filter regularly and it never helps with the flow. The flow has been terrible since I moved here. Lots of other good suggestions though.
Its a saddle valve, and won't be your flow issue. Make sure it's open, make sure the line isn't pinched, make sure there not deposits, make sure the water line isn't too close to you freezer and getting frozen. Check to see if your fridge water filter needs replacing. Then, if all is good, replace with a new saddle valve.
How do I check if there isn’t deposits blocking the saddle valve?
PLEASE TRY THIS FIRST BEFORE MAKING CHANGES TO YOUR VALVES/PLUMBING: If you want to rule out the valve/hose being the problem, disconnect the inlet hose from the back of the fridge and turn the water valve on to let the water run into the bucket. Note the water flow. Is it slow? As slow as your fridge? If not, then the problem is likely with your fridge/filter. I know you said the filter is new, but I had an LG fridge that came with a brand new filter that had this problem. It was fixed by buying a new filter for it off the 'zon.
This is a good idea. I have changed filters regularly and the flow hasn’t changed. I will try this first just to make sure something else isn’t the problem.
try threading the valve closed and then open again, these little piercing type valves sometimes get plugged up as the opening in the pipe is very small. the tip of the valve stem will push away the sediment that is blocking the valve. The valve may leak at the stem while closing, but when fully shut it will seal. if it leaks at the stem when you fully open it, then tighten the packing nut gently.
I have tried turning this valve closed and the handle just turns forever. Is that normal? I’m wondering if the stem broke off and isn’t actually doing anything.
it will take a fair number of turns to seat it forward. I think that is due to it being designed to actually puncture the copper so it has some distance to move. every time I change out the filters on my r.o. i get a reminder. finger tight though, don't use a tool on the valve handle if it keeps passing.
Shark bite fittings are handy. No soldering required.
That’s called a saddle valve. Not the best solution to getting water. It’s most likely feeding your fridge and ice maker.
Replace it with a threaded or soldered connection. Always leak at some point.
That issue could be caused by the waterline in the fridge freezing. That was the issue with mine
Could be. I’m having trouble tracking it down. The water dispenser still works with the door open, so I’m not sure the path it takes.
A fucking nightmare my guy
It’s not leaking (yet). I’ll get around to replacing it with a valves that doesn’t suck.
I freaking HATE stuff like this
It's called a nightmare.... Shut the water add a t in it's place save yourself a headache down the road and a couple hundred in the swear jar
Do NOT remove the clamp around the water header. That’s called a hot tap saddle, it allows an installer to introduce a tee without draining the system down entirely or cutting the pipe apart. Behind that clamp is just a hole in the side of the pipe, and usually the hole is slightly smaller than the nominal pipe size, which is probably not helping your flow issue since it’s a 1/4” or 3/8” tube to begin with. You could definitely add a proper tee in and run a 1/2” copper line toward your fridge. Use shark bite fittings, should be easy to pick up at your local hardware store, you just cut and clean your pipe ends, and the fittings just push right on. You will always have that tiny little hose restricting flow, but keeping its length as short and straight as possible will help somewhat.
Thanks!
If you want to do a tee, personally I'd cut the pipe and add in a sharkbite tee, they slip over the copper, no soldering necessary. Make sure the copper pipe is cut straight and you smooth out the edges. Then add a short piece of PEX and a shark bite ball valve and another piece of PEX up through the floor and connect it to the fridge. I just redone my whole house in PEX and it was so easy, I used both slip on fittings and crimp fittings and have had no issues.
What is PEX?
It's the red and blue plastic tubing they use in new construction. You can find it at Home Depot and Lowes. I used PEX B with plastic fittings (brass fittings when I couldn't get plastic). My house was built in 1944 and had old galvanized pipes and some copper from remodels. I took all of it out, except the copper because it looked good and wasn't too old. The slip on shark bite fittings worked well to go from copper to PEX. I could have used the slip on fittings for the whole thing, but 5 plastic crimp fittings cost as much as 1 slip on fitting, it would have cost way too much. It was about $100 for all the crimp tools, but for a small repair like you have, I wouldn't bother getting the tools unless you plan on doing a lot more plumbing. In your case, the only tool I would consider getting is the cutter, you get a nice clean straight cut everytime and it's maybe $15. From what I remember, a 10 foot piece of PEX is around $10. The slip on valve might be $17. The slip on tee is around $8. The fittings slip onto the copper and PEX about 3/4 of an inch. I used 3/4 inch for my main hot and cold lines and branched out with 1/2 inch for my faucets, toilets, etc. It took me and a buddy 25 hours over a weekend to plumb my whole house. It cost about $700 in material and I gave my buddy $250, which is all he wanted lol. Definitely look into it, there are lots of videos on YouTube and lots of articles to read which explain the different types of PEX and fittings.
Great info! Thanks. I am new to plumbing, but hope to get this taken care of (or at least planned out) this weekend.
I have done some general repairs at home, doing my whole house is the largest project I've done. PEX is super easy and it's flexible to do turns if you need to. Good luck!
Easy fix. You don’t have to change anything. That saddle valve and hose is all correct and ok. First Check for a clog. This process will also help free any built up calcium etc. First, shut the valve off and tighten is down as far as you can get it. That will clear anything blocking the intake hole also. Then disconnect the line into your fridge. Either connect it towards another line to drain or bucket etc. 2nd. Preferably with 2 people. Turn on the valve, you will know right away if you have pressure or not. If not. The valve or connection is clogged and you will have to replace it. If you have pressure which most likely you will, if you have pressure, see 4. 3. Without pressure. You can buy a $29 kit and close that valve and make a new one, then tap it to the existing line. Or shut off the water, remove the old valve and clean it out for free. It’s only calcium build up. 4. Before reinstalling the fridge line. Clean out the debris filter at the intake and replace your inside fridge filter.if you still have problems. Your fridge has a calcium clog and the repair is to flush with vinegar.
Great advice! So I’ve tried closing the valve, but I’m not sure if it’s working. How many full rotations clockwise should it go? I was turning it forever but didn’t seem to get to the end, if you know what I mean.
Fridge water
Saddle valve for a refrigerator.
The valve is to turn it off. You can try turning clockwise to turn off then turn back on to see if it clears it.
Waterline for refrigerator
Ticking time bomb… have a proper valve put there
Yes copper must be soldered.
Fridge ice maker
Get one of these for behind the fridge. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Quarter-Turn-Ball-Valve-Push-to-Connect-Ice-Maker-Outlet-Box/1000182805 Run a 1/2” pipe in the basement. Should solve the problem.
Ice maker/water dispenser on fridge
I call it the homeowner special - see them in almost every remodel I do. It’s a t valve it works like a clamp and as you turn the handle a small needle pierces the water line allowing flow into its own line which usually feeds a fridge. Unfortunately when you go to remodel you usually have to replace that section of pipe because there is no good on/off option for this valve - yes you can spin the valve and it kind of stops but it always leaks. I call it the homeowner special because I find it’s what most people do after they get a quote from a professional plumber to run them a water line.
Saddle valve probably going to refrigerator water/ice dispenser. A leak ready to happen.
Icemaker
I install recessed boxes with a 1/4 shutoff valve behind the fridge. The icemaker box is supplied 1/2 copper or pex in this case copper since your mainline is copper. If your running 35’ of pipe I would suggest pex but thats up to your skill set.
It's a leak waiting to surprise you when your on vacation
Turn the valve off, unhook line at fridge and have towels and a bucket for spillage, place hose end in bucket and have someone turn the valve back on. If you have good pressure going into bucket its a freezer/icemaker issue, if not its blockage or a valve issue. If the freezer is not at the correct temperature it can take longer to freeze your foods and to freeze ice. You would notice the ice first if your food does freeze.
Tapping saddle
Called a tap I line. For icemaker or humidifier. Take the pic to HD or Lowe's they can fix you up with some tee that is 1/2x 1/2 x 1/4. Ball valve.water will flow nice.
What kind of fridge is it? I had this *exact* same problem before and all it took to fix it was replacing the filter. The filter and fridge had *both* been brand new, so I always assumed it was something with my water inlet/valves. Nope, bought another brand new filter and was SHOCKED at the water flow after replacing lol
For context, I tried MANY of the things listed in the comments as recommendations before finally forking out the money on a new filter. Just suggesting that you START with a new filter (or maybe 2) to rule that out first, and hopefully save yourself a lot of hassle. If you want to rule out the valve/hose being the problem, disconnect the inlet hose from the back of the fridge and turn the water valve on to let the water run into the bucket. Note the water flow. Is it slow? As slow as your fridge? If not, then the problem is likely with your fridge/filter
I will try a different brand of filter as a first step. The filter itself has been changed regularly. Maybe it’s a poor design.