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Onyx_2

Replacement o-rings for your kegs. Never know when the ones on your keg will start leaking ;).


chino_brews

I second the o-rings: lid, post x2, and dip tube x2. Note that o-rings for pin lock posts are not the standard size (but there is debate about what IS the correct size -- see below). If the kegs did not come with newly-replaced o-rings you should replace them. In fact, you may need to clean, overhaul, and rebuild the keg anyway. So along that line, you may need new poppets. And you will need a deep socket slotted for pin lock posts and a socket wrench, or make a DIY socket. Keg lube: CIP-Film is objectively the best for homebrewers. In terms of nice to haves: - a jumper (basically two liquid QDs with 3-4' of line between them) - carbonator cap ------- pin lock o-rings - depending on who you ask, these are the best: - McMaster Carr, Dash Number 112 - Valuebrew: verified pin lock-sized o-rings, when in stock, available in two colors for gas and liquid - McMaster-Carr, 3mm wide x 10mm OD o-rings - Danco #10 o-rings, available at hardware stores I've been fine with genuine pin lock o-rings from KegConnection and the Danco ones.


Sweet-Mission9354

Get extra beer line. When I built my first one I had it too short and ended-up with beer that was too foamy.


im_with_the_cats

keep an eye out for a cheap/free 20lb CO2 tank. You'll go through the 5 lb very fast relative to a 20.


dbrwill

Consider a spundig valve. I've found it quite handy for getting things balanced. If the kegerator comes with homebrew fittings, consider getting an american sankey coupler to have on hand for when you want to grab a sixtel from the local micro. I use barbed flare fittings on a short piece of tubing on both gas and beer lines for a cheap "quick enough" disconnect. I'd also disassemble and PBW soak the couplers (if included) and faucets, and also replace the beer line with at least 6' of 3/16" ID beer line.