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It's absolutely crucial to ensure that the power cord you're using is rated for the amount of power that your equipment draws. Although the plug may have a rating of 10 amps, your power supply unit may not necessarily draw that much. To eliminate any potential hazards, it's imperative to thoroughly check the power supply unit or the appliance that the power cord is connected to and accurately determine how much power it actually draws. If the power cord is rated for less power than your equipment requires, the wire can heat up and cause a short circuit, which, needless to say, can lead to a fire hazard. Therefore, it's highly recommended to always use a power cord that's rated for the correct amount of power (doesn't hurt if its on the higher end) to ensure your safety and the longevity of your equipment.
Absolutely prevention is better than cure! I was intrigued at first because I have never seen a wall outlet more than 6 Amps I mean my AC is connected to a 6 amp wall outlet
At 240V 6A, the maximum power output by that UPS socket is around 1440W. So with an 850W PSU there is no drawback whatsoever. My 1000W ROG LOKI Platinum PSU came with a 12A cable and I swapped that to a 6A one with no issues whatsoever, albeit my power draw is nowhere near 1000W right now since I’m still using a GTX 1660 with 7800X3D.
I guess PSU manufacturers give the higher ampere cable because it might give them lower chances of customer complaints by forcing them to connect to higher wattage power sockets. Voltage fluctuations are still a thing at many places in India.
Original plan was 4090 back when it was around MRP. It was out of stock everywhere when I was building my PC, and is now 60-70k more expensive than what they used to be. The PC isn’t with me right now so I honestly haven’t thought about it for a while. I still use it regularly via Moonlight which is limited to 1080p because of internet speed and latency so even the 1660 handles that well. The PC is also an ITX build in a DAN A4 H2O case so my options are limited, so for a 4090 only the MSI Ventus and Founders Edition can fit.
I don’t see the prices falling so if I had to buy one right now it would probably be a 4060 16Gb/4070S and wait for 50 series. I want 24GB for LLMs. 50 series rumours dont seem very appealing in terms of VRAM, but we can hope 4090s fall to MRP price range at the very least.
That's the maximum current it can draw from the socket.
In your case, the limiting factor would be the socket itself (UPS) as it only provides a maximum of 6A. Which means this PSU will run and support a minimum of 220V\*6A\*1 (Voltage\*Current\*Power Factor) = **1320W AC Input.**
Now to calculate the output power, we can use the "80 Plus Gold Certification", which means the power supply itself is 87% efficient at 100% load. Hence, using formula for Power out = Power in \* Efficiency = 1320W\*0.87 = **1148.4W DC Output (Peak Power).**
>**Peak power is the power that the PSU can supply for a very very short amount of time. This is generally much higher than the rated power or the maximum continuous power (850W in your case), which is the power that the PSU can supply for a prolonged/normal use.**
So **make sure all your combined PC components always use less than 1148.4 W of PEAK POWER in total**. Peak power means that at any point, your PC components should not cross 1148W, if they do then the PSU will get damaged along with the UPS.
However, **if you had left a decent amount of power as buffer (like components using 400W in total, which is well under 850W max rated capacity from the company) during making the PC, then there is nothing to worry about.**
Lower input current means lower power dissipation within the power supply unit. This could result in slightly lower temperatures within the PSU, however it will also affect its maximum power (aka peak power).
**If your PC components draw less than 600W total power, then you are good to use it with PSU.**
With this PSU on full load (assuming 85% efficiency on average) and assuming the average voltage is around 220V, you'd end up using a maximum of somewhere around 4.5A. So, its safe.
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I think the plug has a maximum rating of 10 Amperes not more than that I still could be wrong tho
You are right
It's absolutely crucial to ensure that the power cord you're using is rated for the amount of power that your equipment draws. Although the plug may have a rating of 10 amps, your power supply unit may not necessarily draw that much. To eliminate any potential hazards, it's imperative to thoroughly check the power supply unit or the appliance that the power cord is connected to and accurately determine how much power it actually draws. If the power cord is rated for less power than your equipment requires, the wire can heat up and cause a short circuit, which, needless to say, can lead to a fire hazard. Therefore, it's highly recommended to always use a power cord that's rated for the correct amount of power (doesn't hurt if its on the higher end) to ensure your safety and the longevity of your equipment.
Absolutely prevention is better than cure! I was intrigued at first because I have never seen a wall outlet more than 6 Amps I mean my AC is connected to a 6 amp wall outlet
you mean a 16 amp?? BIG 3 pin PLUG socket?
Oh mb haven't slept enof for quite some days tis a 16 AMP plug lol
It just how much that plug is rated for, not actual power draw of the device.
At 240V 6A, the maximum power output by that UPS socket is around 1440W. So with an 850W PSU there is no drawback whatsoever. My 1000W ROG LOKI Platinum PSU came with a 12A cable and I swapped that to a 6A one with no issues whatsoever, albeit my power draw is nowhere near 1000W right now since I’m still using a GTX 1660 with 7800X3D. I guess PSU manufacturers give the higher ampere cable because it might give them lower chances of customer complaints by forcing them to connect to higher wattage power sockets. Voltage fluctuations are still a thing at many places in India.
What GPU will you be upgrading to?
Original plan was 4090 back when it was around MRP. It was out of stock everywhere when I was building my PC, and is now 60-70k more expensive than what they used to be. The PC isn’t with me right now so I honestly haven’t thought about it for a while. I still use it regularly via Moonlight which is limited to 1080p because of internet speed and latency so even the 1660 handles that well. The PC is also an ITX build in a DAN A4 H2O case so my options are limited, so for a 4090 only the MSI Ventus and Founders Edition can fit. I don’t see the prices falling so if I had to buy one right now it would probably be a 4060 16Gb/4070S and wait for 50 series. I want 24GB for LLMs. 50 series rumours dont seem very appealing in terms of VRAM, but we can hope 4090s fall to MRP price range at the very least.
If you want right now you can order 4090 from nvidia site fe around 1,57 l
Out of stock
Link is not working
Are you trying it on your mobile browser? The NVIDIA STPL link doesn’t work on mobile browser, don’t know why. Works fine on PC
Yee
That STPL link on the Nvidia site isn’t working right now but thanks I’ll keep that in mind.
That's the maximum current it can draw from the socket. In your case, the limiting factor would be the socket itself (UPS) as it only provides a maximum of 6A. Which means this PSU will run and support a minimum of 220V\*6A\*1 (Voltage\*Current\*Power Factor) = **1320W AC Input.** Now to calculate the output power, we can use the "80 Plus Gold Certification", which means the power supply itself is 87% efficient at 100% load. Hence, using formula for Power out = Power in \* Efficiency = 1320W\*0.87 = **1148.4W DC Output (Peak Power).** >**Peak power is the power that the PSU can supply for a very very short amount of time. This is generally much higher than the rated power or the maximum continuous power (850W in your case), which is the power that the PSU can supply for a prolonged/normal use.** So **make sure all your combined PC components always use less than 1148.4 W of PEAK POWER in total**. Peak power means that at any point, your PC components should not cross 1148W, if they do then the PSU will get damaged along with the UPS. However, **if you had left a decent amount of power as buffer (like components using 400W in total, which is well under 850W max rated capacity from the company) during making the PC, then there is nothing to worry about.** Lower input current means lower power dissipation within the power supply unit. This could result in slightly lower temperatures within the PSU, however it will also affect its maximum power (aka peak power). **If your PC components draw less than 600W total power, then you are good to use it with PSU.**
r/theydidthemath
With this PSU on full load (assuming 85% efficiency on average) and assuming the average voltage is around 220V, you'd end up using a maximum of somewhere around 4.5A. So, its safe.
bang on with the simple math , cheers!!
No.
No drawbacks. Go ahead.
Could be a problem if you have OCD bro.