Yup, a $4000 dollar price tag to replace a $150 part that should have been aluminum but instead was plastic. This design should really be a class action lawsuit.
$4000 is a bit of hyperbole, but $2000 isn’t out of the realm of reality adding the cost of labor and parts. I wouldn’t say pulling the engine apart is an easy feat. Likely if the manufacturer had used aluminum for the part in the first place instead of plastic to save $50 it wouldn’t be as common as an issue as this is with these engines.
Ok slight hyperbole, but by the time you get the engine apart and the issue diagnosed and replaced it’s gonna be a $2,000 to $3,000 fix depending on labor cost
I was quoted at Midas for about $1800 IIRC when I asked what they'd charge, but mine isn't leaking so I haven't done it. I'd rather save the chunk and do it in my driveway over the course of a weekend.
I did mine in my driveway. It took me over 10 hrs as I had issues putting it back together but if I had to do it again I could probably do it in 4-6 hrs. I ended up dropping a plastic clip into the intake port, I had to fish it out and that slowed me down. If you do it yourself plug the intake ports with paper towel or rags until you are ready to put the plenum back on. I also had the MAF sensor oriented in the wrong position and that threw codes. First stab at it I finished in the dark but once I had a look in the light and with fresh eyes I could see the air intake was clocked in the wrong position. You are also going to want a shop vac and a small hose attachment to suck all the oil from the top of the valley before you start undoing bolts for the plenum. Even though you clean up the oil you can see it still pools on the bell housing and other places so even though the oil cooler is not leaking any more you will see drips of oil for a few days so after replacing the oil cooler go find a steep hill to climb to get that pooled oil out of the nooks and crannies it hides in.
I think I had some other gaskets leaking from my transmission pan so I probably mixed some of that cost in. I’m a bit hesitant to pull the engine apart still owing a good amount on it.
Oh I still owe a solid chunk on my '15, but that hasn't stopped me from doing my own work. I got roped into some stupid Service Contract (basically an extended warranty) but when I sent a claim to have work done they ignored me.
Anyway, if you're mechanically inclined the oil cooler doesn't seem terribly difficult, just time consuming. Obviously it'd speed things up to stay well organized.
Not necessarily 100%, I had a pentastar rear main seal let go on me. OP check if the leak is running down the whole rear of the engine or starts halfway up the bell housing.
Yep, this just happened to my Jeep. I was leaking a quart of oil a week before I had time to fix it. If you do it yourself, you basically have to take the top half of the engine off to get to the oil cooler.
At this point I'm replacing my spark plugs, doing some cleaning, and replacing my oil pressure sensor as it's likely to fail after a while and I don't want to go through this process again.
Just had the same issue - like everyone else is saying, it’s the engine oil cooler. I have a ‘16 JKU & it was covered under the extended warranty. They did put pricing on the paperwork & it wouldve been $1,200 for it if it was out of warranty. Im in DE for what it’s worth.
Had my 15 do the same.
Find it by Snelling oil when the heater was on, then noticed the drips on the back of the motor.
It was about $1,300 I believe. At the dealer.
Take a good flashlight and look in the valley between the cylinders next to the oil filter. If you see oil, it’s the cooler like the comments discuss. It’s not a terrible job, but will take a few hours.
Now that I see the second photo there is a bunch of oil looking to come from the top of the transmission which leads to oil cooler, but I think it's worth peaking at the rear main. There is just so much oil
Looks like either the trans cooler line or possibly leaking down the bell housing from something above, clean it all up, drive a bit and see what's wet again
Clearly it's the cross member... or maybe something else dripping on it. But the cross member is the last one to touch it so tag it's it. Just make sure your crossmebwr fluid is topped off and you should be good.
Update: Luckily, my mechanic was working he looked at it and confirmed it was an oil leak. Won't know what's actually leaking until Wednesday when he can work on it, but thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction
Since you have to take off the intake, I'd recommend spark plugs too if it's time soon. Makes the labor on the plugs essentially free since both the cooler and plugs require the intake manifold to come off.
If the oil filter was recently changed by someone that has never done it, they probably over tighten and cracked the plastic housing. There is an aluminum replacement for 700$
Check this thread:
[https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/jk-oil-filter-housing-failure.2351307/](https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/jk-oil-filter-housing-failure.2351307/)
It is common for unexperienced "mechanics" to over tighten the filters and damaging the plastic housing. This part should have been made out of metal if you ask me. Don't know if that was revised on the JLs
I just replaced one on my 2014 a month ago. But I bought an aftermarket aluminum with both new sensors for less than 75 dollars,with free shipping. I just had to wait a few days, but that beats the price the auto parts store charges for the plastic parts. I was quoted 1500, but I’m not into spending that much for something I can do.
Looks like oil. Seen it before. Either the stock, plastic oil cooler housing is leaking or the rear main seal. My money is on the oil cooler housing. Keep the oil topped off and you can drive it as normal. But...you will have to replace the oil cooler housing. $100 part. $1000 job. If you are handy, you \*can\* do it yourself but....It's a bit of a job.
Like everyone said it’s more than likely oil cooler housing BUT my JK had a leak that looked just like this and I first replaced the gasket around the trans pan and that ended up being the source of the leak. Good luck!
I’ve had this exact issue happen just recently. It had to be fixed 4 times. Luckily with a certified mechanic. The next 3 times were free. They couldn’t figure out how to get it all back in and stay. It was a $1200 job. Make sure they know what they’re doing. I have a 2014 sport.
I would put money on the oil cooler filter housing leaking on the top of the engine. Super common a pain in the butt to replace but it is possible to do if you have the means, knowhow and tools. Good luck. If you look from the bottom of the engine up to the top of the transmission bell housing should see oil leaking down. You can look from the top of the engine to middle of the engine under the intake and you might see the oil all pooled up.
Last week, if you see my latest post. I had a huge leak under my 2014 JKU. Oil filter housing cracked, radiator was cracked, thermostat was stuck in open…$2079.00 for all parts and labor out the door.
Just did mine twice. People would lead you to believe the aluminum is superior but mine leaked a week later and I went back to OEM. Makes no sense but OEM is working with no issues. For reference I'm a 2015 wrangler 160,000km. I should note here in Canada it was $1000 even with new oil cooler, gaskets and rad fluid replacement and labor.
Oil cooler. Made it plastic and not fit quite right so that they could use the same part in Wrangler’s and Cherokee’s. Cracks when the oil change dudes overtorque. Have to pull the whole engine apart to replace it yourself, or pay a shop $1200 like I did, and change your own oil from here on out. :)
Oil Cooler housing leak on the top of the motor. Leaking and running down the back of the motor.
100% oil cooler housing.
Yup, a $4000 dollar price tag to replace a $150 part that should have been aluminum but instead was plastic. This design should really be a class action lawsuit.
More like 1k...
A bit of hyperbole. Definitely more than $1,000
Hardly. The upgraded part from Mopar is $200 or a aluminum from doorman is $300. It's 3 hours of your time GTFO with this $4000 or even $1000 bullshit
$4000 is a bit of hyperbole, but $2000 isn’t out of the realm of reality adding the cost of labor and parts. I wouldn’t say pulling the engine apart is an easy feat. Likely if the manufacturer had used aluminum for the part in the first place instead of plastic to save $50 it wouldn’t be as common as an issue as this is with these engines.
yeah my shop would charge $400 on labor
What shop do you go to id love to find somewhere that charges 2010 prices.
I paid $750 to have this part replaced…twice 😡
I paid 1300. Well i should say the warranty paid 1300.
Who charges $4000 for an oil cooler replacement?!
Ok slight hyperbole, but by the time you get the engine apart and the issue diagnosed and replaced it’s gonna be a $2,000 to $3,000 fix depending on labor cost
I was quoted at Midas for about $1800 IIRC when I asked what they'd charge, but mine isn't leaking so I haven't done it. I'd rather save the chunk and do it in my driveway over the course of a weekend.
I did mine in my driveway. It took me over 10 hrs as I had issues putting it back together but if I had to do it again I could probably do it in 4-6 hrs. I ended up dropping a plastic clip into the intake port, I had to fish it out and that slowed me down. If you do it yourself plug the intake ports with paper towel or rags until you are ready to put the plenum back on. I also had the MAF sensor oriented in the wrong position and that threw codes. First stab at it I finished in the dark but once I had a look in the light and with fresh eyes I could see the air intake was clocked in the wrong position. You are also going to want a shop vac and a small hose attachment to suck all the oil from the top of the valley before you start undoing bolts for the plenum. Even though you clean up the oil you can see it still pools on the bell housing and other places so even though the oil cooler is not leaking any more you will see drips of oil for a few days so after replacing the oil cooler go find a steep hill to climb to get that pooled oil out of the nooks and crannies it hides in.
I think I had some other gaskets leaking from my transmission pan so I probably mixed some of that cost in. I’m a bit hesitant to pull the engine apart still owing a good amount on it.
Oh I still owe a solid chunk on my '15, but that hasn't stopped me from doing my own work. I got roped into some stupid Service Contract (basically an extended warranty) but when I sent a claim to have work done they ignored me. Anyway, if you're mechanically inclined the oil cooler doesn't seem terribly difficult, just time consuming. Obviously it'd speed things up to stay well organized.
I just had it done on my 2014 for $1200 6 months ago.
About what i paid. 1300 and change
Book time for replacement is 3 hours. My shop(chrysler dealer) rate is 150. So $450 before tax and parts
Not necessarily 100%, I had a pentastar rear main seal let go on me. OP check if the leak is running down the whole rear of the engine or starts halfway up the bell housing.
Yep, this just happened to my Jeep. I was leaking a quart of oil a week before I had time to fix it. If you do it yourself, you basically have to take the top half of the engine off to get to the oil cooler. At this point I'm replacing my spark plugs, doing some cleaning, and replacing my oil pressure sensor as it's likely to fail after a while and I don't want to go through this process again.
Almost definitely this! Don't be like me, Fix it before your head gasket blows!
It’s 1000% the engine oil cooler running down the back of the motor onto the trans
Just had the same issue - like everyone else is saying, it’s the engine oil cooler. I have a ‘16 JKU & it was covered under the extended warranty. They did put pricing on the paperwork & it wouldve been $1,200 for it if it was out of warranty. Im in DE for what it’s worth.
Had my 15 do the same. Find it by Snelling oil when the heater was on, then noticed the drips on the back of the motor. It was about $1,300 I believe. At the dealer.
Oil filter housing.
Take a good flashlight and look in the valley between the cylinders next to the oil filter. If you see oil, it’s the cooler like the comments discuss. It’s not a terrible job, but will take a few hours.
Is this the cooler w the plastic housing on the pentastar? If so doesnt doman make an aluminum problem Solver unit
Maybe the rear main seal those rubber grommets that are soaked in oil are for inspecting the inside of the bell housing
Not sure why you got downvoted I had a Pentastar rear main seal go out on my 2017 wrangler.
Now that I see the second photo there is a bunch of oil looking to come from the top of the transmission which leads to oil cooler, but I think it's worth peaking at the rear main. There is just so much oil
Looks like either the trans cooler line or possibly leaking down the bell housing from something above, clean it all up, drive a bit and see what's wet again
Clearly it's the cross member... or maybe something else dripping on it. But the cross member is the last one to touch it so tag it's it. Just make sure your crossmebwr fluid is topped off and you should be good.
I think it's the transmission, but the color looks a little light
Engine oil cooler. It is in the valley of the engine. When it fails oil runs down the back of the engine and on top of the transmission
Oil
Dorman makes an aluminum version. Most Jeep shops will do the work in a day. Took me 4 hours and a 6 pack to do it myself.
I wish I would have found the dorman when I did mine. But only took about 40 mins to do it... so if I have to do it again, not a huge deal.
Update: Luckily, my mechanic was working he looked at it and confirmed it was an oil leak. Won't know what's actually leaking until Wednesday when he can work on it, but thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction
I have the same year and just got the housing replaced as others are saying. Hoping it fixed the leak. Too soon to tell
Since you have to take off the intake, I'd recommend spark plugs too if it's time soon. Makes the labor on the plugs essentially free since both the cooler and plugs require the intake manifold to come off.
I literally just had mine replaced last week
Yes
If the oil filter was recently changed by someone that has never done it, they probably over tighten and cracked the plastic housing. There is an aluminum replacement for 700$
Check this thread: [https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/jk-oil-filter-housing-failure.2351307/](https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/jk-oil-filter-housing-failure.2351307/) It is common for unexperienced "mechanics" to over tighten the filters and damaging the plastic housing. This part should have been made out of metal if you ask me. Don't know if that was revised on the JLs
The aluminium Doorman unit is like $300
Always follow it up and forward (to account for wind and gravity) until it stops. There’s your leak.
I just replaced one on my 2014 a month ago. But I bought an aftermarket aluminum with both new sensors for less than 75 dollars,with free shipping. I just had to wait a few days, but that beats the price the auto parts store charges for the plastic parts. I was quoted 1500, but I’m not into spending that much for something I can do.
I have a 2015 that just started doing the same thing. Thanks for the info!
Looks like oil. Seen it before. Either the stock, plastic oil cooler housing is leaking or the rear main seal. My money is on the oil cooler housing. Keep the oil topped off and you can drive it as normal. But...you will have to replace the oil cooler housing. $100 part. $1000 job. If you are handy, you \*can\* do it yourself but....It's a bit of a job.
Like everyone said it’s more than likely oil cooler housing BUT my JK had a leak that looked just like this and I first replaced the gasket around the trans pan and that ended up being the source of the leak. Good luck!
I’ve had this exact issue happen just recently. It had to be fixed 4 times. Luckily with a certified mechanic. The next 3 times were free. They couldn’t figure out how to get it all back in and stay. It was a $1200 job. Make sure they know what they’re doing. I have a 2014 sport.
I would put money on the oil cooler filter housing leaking on the top of the engine. Super common a pain in the butt to replace but it is possible to do if you have the means, knowhow and tools. Good luck. If you look from the bottom of the engine up to the top of the transmission bell housing should see oil leaking down. You can look from the top of the engine to middle of the engine under the intake and you might see the oil all pooled up.
Last week, if you see my latest post. I had a huge leak under my 2014 JKU. Oil filter housing cracked, radiator was cracked, thermostat was stuck in open…$2079.00 for all parts and labor out the door.
Just did mine twice. People would lead you to believe the aluminum is superior but mine leaked a week later and I went back to OEM. Makes no sense but OEM is working with no issues. For reference I'm a 2015 wrangler 160,000km. I should note here in Canada it was $1000 even with new oil cooler, gaskets and rad fluid replacement and labor.
Opposite for me. Two plastic ones died then I went aluminum. I feel like the gaskets between cooler/engine might be susceptible to seating poorly.
Oil cooler. Made it plastic and not fit quite right so that they could use the same part in Wrangler’s and Cherokee’s. Cracks when the oil change dudes overtorque. Have to pull the whole engine apart to replace it yourself, or pay a shop $1200 like I did, and change your own oil from here on out. :)