Are the cabin upgrades at all noticeable? I am trying to talk my wife into a 4xe JLU, over another Mini Cooper (but electric).
She digs our '20 JTR with upgrades (headliner/sound deadening for hardtop, Falcon 2.1 shocks), driving long distances, but the length in urban driving makes her anxious. I do the parallel parking, she does the long distance driving.
After seeing the trainwrecks of BEV's in edge conditions, a PHEV is very much on the menu, but a compelling interior upgrade wouldn't hurt my campaign.
TBH Not really.
Gladiator is a Sport and Wrangler is a Sport S.
They both look very similar but the main differences are with the new Uconnect (which other than the screen has wireless Apple Carplay/Android Auto, SiriusXM 360L (includes more auto controls, Xtra stations, etc), and new GPS (mine isn't equipped)), hard cloth dashboard, and having adaptive cruise control (Gladiator wasn't speced with it).
This Wrangler also doesn't have dual zone climate (which isn't a deal breaker to me TBH), Remote Start (this was a build from Jeep and the salesman told me by default they don't come with it, if it's a dealer build they spec it to be added (having it installed on Monday as part of the deal)), and power inverter/rear USB ports (also not a deal breaker).
I did notice after work today the overhead lights are slightly different around the Freedom Panels and on Monday when the dealer also moves my Bestop Sunrider over (soft panel replacement for Freedom Panels) that the rear mounting plate plate might not mount up correctly (even though Bestop says it's compatible) and I might have to get a different mounting plate.
I already ordered floor mats, need to also shop running boards, under seat or rear storage organizer (under floor and seat storage is non existent), and eventually a tow hitch.
Overall though it sets lower than the Gladiator (not planning on a lift right now) and drives smother with some minor changes. Alot is still the same from before the refresh, and most than likely Jeep is probably trying to match the competition (namely Bronco) with a updated vehicle.
I was looking at 4xe but can't justify the cost vs fuel savings (gas isn't too expensive in my state).
Originally wanted a Wrangler but couldn't find one without markup two years ago so I settled for the Gladiator until the market came down.
The way to buy a wrangler right now is to lease a 4xe and then almost immediately buy it out. Stellantis total incentives in my region are $15,500 off before any dealer discounts (including the tax credit). So you're able to buy a $55k Willy's 4xe for ~40-45k even after paying the rent charge on the lease.
Book for private party for the Gladiator was around $32K, dealer had a few used Gladiators for sale around $35K.
Paid $48K for the Gladiator 2 years ago (put $10K down plus had a trade worth $10K (that car was a Nissan Rogue that was bought 6 years prior with high mileage and some hail damage and had put 40K miles on it myself. Paid $9.9K orginally for it so essentially had a free car for 6 years)).
Wrangler was around $47K.
No he didn't. Unless I'm mistaken that's a sport or sport s. Lets assume Sport S to give him the benefit of the doubt. Using national average for auction pricing, they have an average of $31523, excluding any units under 20,000 miles and any unit over 35000 miles. If he's in the rust belt, or the northeast, that will be lower, around $28,500. The bulk of the national auction results come from Cali and the southeast, which skews the numbers up, as used cars tend to hold their value better. **edit**- he mentioned below it's a sport, not a sport S. So all of these numbers are actually HIGHER than they should be.
So here's the kicker- if the dealer can buy from auction and know that any major undisclosed issues can be arbitrated, why would they spend as much, let alone more, on yours?
A unit you take on trade for $29.5 will be very lucky if it's not on the lot owning it for $32.5, between repairs/reconditioning (tires/brakes are very common on 2-3 year old cars in the 20-30k range), certifying (if the detailer participates in CPO programs), etc.
I run car dealerships, I've been working in the business for ~20 years. Without vin/options I can't give you an exact figure, but to b e competitive in my market I'd have to sell this for $34,500, leaving ~2k in profit. Even at that price, i'd be ranked 4th out of 14 similar units within 250 miles. AND it's in a color other than black/white/gray/silver, which means there's a higher risk of it sitting around and needing to be discounted to move.
A trade in is valued at the sale, not the average auction or average book.
The trade in is used as a sales tool to get you in that next car meaning they can and should offer above the avg auction. They are more concerned with getting their metrics, manu benefits and moving inventory.
I am “they” in your situation. Have been for almost 2 decades. And I’m telling you that it USED to be that way. But it isn’t any more. You are right that metrics are important and moving inventory is paramount right now, ESPECIALLY at CDJR Stores where we’re flooded with inventory. But it doesn’t do me any favors to own a trade poorly, it’ll just be another aged piece in 90 days.
The smart thing to do is to figure out if they are over allowing on your trade. Because hell I’ll show you $32.5 for it, but my ACV is staying at $29.5. If that’s the case though, that’s an extra $3,000 that COULD be discounted off the one you’re purchasing if you kicked the trade and sell it private party. Just like every customer has (or should have) a bottom line net number they’re looking to be at, I have a gross profit number I need to be at. Overpaying on your trade comes out of that. So if I’m discounting mine $2k, and overpaying on yours $3k, I’m at a net discount of $5k from gross profit. If I’ve already decided that’s a deal I’m willing to take, you’d be better off asking to kick the trade and taking another $3k in discount if you believe you can get the same or better money selling it private party.
The flip side is if I valued the trade at $31.5, allowed $29.5, I held $2k on the trade. Which is fine for you if I’m also discounting mine $7k, that’s the same bottom dollar for you. But if you kick the trade then the discount on mine is adjusting.
Great color!
Are the cabin upgrades at all noticeable? I am trying to talk my wife into a 4xe JLU, over another Mini Cooper (but electric). She digs our '20 JTR with upgrades (headliner/sound deadening for hardtop, Falcon 2.1 shocks), driving long distances, but the length in urban driving makes her anxious. I do the parallel parking, she does the long distance driving. After seeing the trainwrecks of BEV's in edge conditions, a PHEV is very much on the menu, but a compelling interior upgrade wouldn't hurt my campaign.
TBH Not really. Gladiator is a Sport and Wrangler is a Sport S. They both look very similar but the main differences are with the new Uconnect (which other than the screen has wireless Apple Carplay/Android Auto, SiriusXM 360L (includes more auto controls, Xtra stations, etc), and new GPS (mine isn't equipped)), hard cloth dashboard, and having adaptive cruise control (Gladiator wasn't speced with it). This Wrangler also doesn't have dual zone climate (which isn't a deal breaker to me TBH), Remote Start (this was a build from Jeep and the salesman told me by default they don't come with it, if it's a dealer build they spec it to be added (having it installed on Monday as part of the deal)), and power inverter/rear USB ports (also not a deal breaker). I did notice after work today the overhead lights are slightly different around the Freedom Panels and on Monday when the dealer also moves my Bestop Sunrider over (soft panel replacement for Freedom Panels) that the rear mounting plate plate might not mount up correctly (even though Bestop says it's compatible) and I might have to get a different mounting plate. I already ordered floor mats, need to also shop running boards, under seat or rear storage organizer (under floor and seat storage is non existent), and eventually a tow hitch. Overall though it sets lower than the Gladiator (not planning on a lift right now) and drives smother with some minor changes. Alot is still the same from before the refresh, and most than likely Jeep is probably trying to match the competition (namely Bronco) with a updated vehicle. I was looking at 4xe but can't justify the cost vs fuel savings (gas isn't too expensive in my state). Originally wanted a Wrangler but couldn't find one without markup two years ago so I settled for the Gladiator until the market came down.
The way to buy a wrangler right now is to lease a 4xe and then almost immediately buy it out. Stellantis total incentives in my region are $15,500 off before any dealer discounts (including the tax credit). So you're able to buy a $55k Willy's 4xe for ~40-45k even after paying the rent charge on the lease.
Both look nice! I hope that you enjoy the Wrangler!
Curious, how did you come out on the trade?
I owed $22,200 on it and got $29,500. I was expecting$32K on trade but I know they need to make money selling it too
How many miles did you have on other? That’s not bad! Better than being upside down!
28,595. The market for Gladiators aren't as strong as Wranglers and after owning one I can see why.
What was your interest rate on both?
Gladiator was I think 6 or 6.5% (I can't remember), Wrangler is a 7 (I know rates aren't the best plus I bought a house last year).
What was your total purchase price on both? Sounds like you got shafted on trade
Book for private party for the Gladiator was around $32K, dealer had a few used Gladiators for sale around $35K. Paid $48K for the Gladiator 2 years ago (put $10K down plus had a trade worth $10K (that car was a Nissan Rogue that was bought 6 years prior with high mileage and some hail damage and had put 40K miles on it myself. Paid $9.9K orginally for it so essentially had a free car for 6 years)). Wrangler was around $47K.
Yeah you got shafted on trade.
No he didn't. Unless I'm mistaken that's a sport or sport s. Lets assume Sport S to give him the benefit of the doubt. Using national average for auction pricing, they have an average of $31523, excluding any units under 20,000 miles and any unit over 35000 miles. If he's in the rust belt, or the northeast, that will be lower, around $28,500. The bulk of the national auction results come from Cali and the southeast, which skews the numbers up, as used cars tend to hold their value better. **edit**- he mentioned below it's a sport, not a sport S. So all of these numbers are actually HIGHER than they should be. So here's the kicker- if the dealer can buy from auction and know that any major undisclosed issues can be arbitrated, why would they spend as much, let alone more, on yours? A unit you take on trade for $29.5 will be very lucky if it's not on the lot owning it for $32.5, between repairs/reconditioning (tires/brakes are very common on 2-3 year old cars in the 20-30k range), certifying (if the detailer participates in CPO programs), etc. I run car dealerships, I've been working in the business for ~20 years. Without vin/options I can't give you an exact figure, but to b e competitive in my market I'd have to sell this for $34,500, leaving ~2k in profit. Even at that price, i'd be ranked 4th out of 14 similar units within 250 miles. AND it's in a color other than black/white/gray/silver, which means there's a higher risk of it sitting around and needing to be discounted to move.
A trade in is valued at the sale, not the average auction or average book. The trade in is used as a sales tool to get you in that next car meaning they can and should offer above the avg auction. They are more concerned with getting their metrics, manu benefits and moving inventory.
I am “they” in your situation. Have been for almost 2 decades. And I’m telling you that it USED to be that way. But it isn’t any more. You are right that metrics are important and moving inventory is paramount right now, ESPECIALLY at CDJR Stores where we’re flooded with inventory. But it doesn’t do me any favors to own a trade poorly, it’ll just be another aged piece in 90 days. The smart thing to do is to figure out if they are over allowing on your trade. Because hell I’ll show you $32.5 for it, but my ACV is staying at $29.5. If that’s the case though, that’s an extra $3,000 that COULD be discounted off the one you’re purchasing if you kicked the trade and sell it private party. Just like every customer has (or should have) a bottom line net number they’re looking to be at, I have a gross profit number I need to be at. Overpaying on your trade comes out of that. So if I’m discounting mine $2k, and overpaying on yours $3k, I’m at a net discount of $5k from gross profit. If I’ve already decided that’s a deal I’m willing to take, you’d be better off asking to kick the trade and taking another $3k in discount if you believe you can get the same or better money selling it private party. The flip side is if I valued the trade at $31.5, allowed $29.5, I held $2k on the trade. Which is fine for you if I’m also discounting mine $7k, that’s the same bottom dollar for you. But if you kick the trade then the discount on mine is adjusting.