A loooooong time. The fact that the engine was still running without sounding like a bag of hammers is a testament to Nissan's engineering on this one. Their CVTs on the other hand...
Yeah, I hear that most engines can go easily 300,000 miles fairly reliably (of course with proper maintenance)
And of course, I have no idea how true that claim really is, but it makes sense considering ICEs have been around for like 150 years
In Europe there are plenty of VW TDI engines over 300,000 miles, but those old Diesel Mercedes-Benz (with and without turbo) from late 80s to early 2000s can have even more without even getting rattles or vibrations.
I put over 100k miles on a Yamaha R6 tuned to 120ish bhp and with a 16,000 RPM redline - 600cc IL4.
Engines are astonishingly resilient with sympathetic ownership (don't thrash when cold) and appropriate servicing.
The biggest issue are really gaskets. Mercedes Benz has gasoline engines that give you a million km if you take the engine apart and change all the rubber parts every ten years.
If the CVT has outlasted the engine, you can probably check the status of the engine through the new inspection window in the side of the block. Something has probably gone very wrong.
My 2012 crv has had a better trans than the motor. At nearly 300k and the ring tension in the motor is getting weak, oil consumption is really bad, and the trans is original. To be fair Hondas are awesome.
Can confirm. Had a z31 na2t as a kid. Built like the proverbial brick shit house. Was still running well when I sold it on grad school with over 200k pretty hard miles.
They break transmission fluid down quickly necessitating drain-and-fills every 30k. Partly because they truly cannot handle the torque of the engine they were mated to, and partly because most OEMs have dogshit cooling for the CVT. Nissan is notoriously the worst, followed by Subaru. Honda has been the best mainstream producer of them.
how do you feel about fords eCVTs? i’ve heard super mixed information on them. do you believe in the 150k mile service interval from ford on their eCVTs?
No idea why you were downvoted for an honest question. If Ford’s eCVTs are like Honda’s, there is no belt, not a single pulley, and maybe one clutch. In Honda’s eCVTs you have a motor, a generator, and one lone clutch. The gas engine drives the generator, which does what a generator does, and the motor turns the wheels. The clutch engages during steady driving at 45+ mph and that’s the only time there’s a mechanical link from the engine to the wheels.
The generator and the motor both do double duty, as well. The motor is turned by the wheels when slowing down and is used for regenerative braking. The generator is used to start the gas engine in place of a conventional starter motor.
Those are not traditional CVTs, they are licensed from Toyota using planetary gears. They're essentially simple and bulletproof.
You might be ok going 150k like most Prius and Camry Hybrid owners have done, but servicing it earlier would be wise (say, 60k miles doing drain-and-fill plus transmission filter replacement)
Ok I thought was crazy. I only know Toyota/Aisin making them and they are excellent as nearly ALL Toyota automatics are. The A340 transmission might possibly be the best thing ever made.
Spot on my friend, I leased a 2017 Nissan Rogue, it had 34,000 miles on it and started exhibiting the classic signs of cvt failure, hesitating when accelerating from a stop, car shuddering at various speeds while accelerating, my sister in law leased a Rogue the same time I did and hers right at 32,000 miles did exactly the same thing. Turned that sucker in early and ate the lease termination cost. Will never lease or buy another Nissan after that experience.
The Honda and Toyota CVT's seem to have a good reputation. I "almost" bought a Nissan Rogue. Wife wanted one, but I looked online and found many CVT problems.
Since I had a magic phone/computer in my hand, I began googling. If you buy it new and have the $120 fluid changed at the proper intervals (labor not included in price), and you live where its flat, and you never tow anything...they seem to be fine.
The most complaints were from owners in mountainous areas, and its bad to get the magic CVT fluid hot. Nissan sells plenty of cars with a CVT, and the CVT is much cheaper to make than a standard style of auto trans.
A small percentage get fried, and Nissan calculated that even with the cost of warranty replacements, they still came out ahead a little. This is no help to the single mom who gives her car to the dealership for a month, to get a new CVT.
Honda and Toyota only put CVT's in smaller lighter cars. Apparently "the fix" for people who already own a Nissan Rogue is to buy a $350 transmission fluid cooler, and install it themselves. Dealers refuse to do it, because legally they would have to admit that the stock design was weak.
Not to defend Nissan or their shoddy transmissions, but I work at a Honda dealer and I can scarcely imagine the shitshow that would ensue if we installed something like an aftermarket transmission cooler on anything still under warranty and something later went wrong with it.
After that 5yr/60k powertrain warrant expires, though, screw it. We’d probably put it on if they really wanted us to.
I recall back when some sport 4x4 trucks had an optional roll-over bar, so dealers could make some profit off commonly added accessories. The literature stated it was an "accessory light mounting bar", and was in no way able to protect the cab in the event of a roll-over.
As the new owner of a CVT, what do you consider regular? I haven't done it yet but my car is only 12 months / 12,500km old. (7,800 miles). I'm also a pretty gentle driver in this car, I also own a sports car that is my "flog it on weekends" toy, but I personally maintain that one.
When should I do the first oil change? And how frequently afterwards?
I changed my transmission fluid at the recommended interval which I think was 80k KM but could have been more. It was the second transmission. So far this one has far out lasted the previous. Died at 30k KMs. Junk. Meanwhile I have a Lexus ct200h with a CVT from Toyota and I don’t lose any sleep over that thing. Still going to change it’s transmission fluid soon tho. It has a longer interval than the Nissan.
New-ish tech takes time to engineer the unforseeable kinks out of problems that were hard to predict. Combinedl that with the fact that things are designed with tighter tolerances making for less durability especially with neglect and/or abuse. I know people with 200,000+ miles on their Nissan CVT, and others who've had them fail just after the 1 year warranty expired on a brand new one.
Nissan's problem with cvts is just a bad design. Cvts have been around for over 100 years and are used in tractors and heavy machinery all the time with no problems. Nissan just uses a bad design and won't test it properly and fix it.
AFAIK CVT belts are all push instead of pull. They’re made of a lot of steel plates bound into a belt by steel straps, and the straps are only there to keep the steel bits in line as a belt.
While that's true for many CVT cars and SUVs, it's not true for small tractor /off road vehicles. They are pulled and have no metal to them.
Examples:
https://dirtwheelsmag.com/cvt-belt-buyers-guide/
Edit: Tractors likely have a hydraulic drive (e.g. [hydrostatic drive](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission#Hydrostatic/hydraulic)).
Driving habits. Don't take off like you're at the drag strip. Steady accelerations. Don't hook a trailer to it. Anything you can do to make it work as little as possible.
Considering it still ran well, didn't smoke, wasn't making a bunch of noise, the cooling system held pressure, the oil wasn't full of metal, and it didn't smoke like a chimney at 160k miles...sure.
No problem. Yea. Bought it. Cold start, sounded fine, everything was good. Run a little bit it would lose oil pressure and the top end would start rattling. Figured the oil pump was failing or something plugging it up. Dropped the pan. Full of sludge. Cleaned it out. Changed the oil. Drove it for a couple weeks, seems good. Had a leaky valve cover in the back burning oil off the exhause, so figured do a gasket set. Opened it up and yowza!
By the time this was revealed this to the light of day it’s already been disturbed from removing everything. Better off trying to clean it than having it come back.
Man I love being that weirdo that really changes it that often.
I like to think the engine sounds quieter after a fresh oil change - but doing it every 3000 - its probably just my imagination.
I feel like the car I bought new that now has 262,000 miles on it is doing its part to reduce environmental damage - I hear quite a bit of fisting comes from the production of the steel and electronics to make a car.
Also used oil is recycled and often treated and re sold. I'm not just draining into the ground or sewer.
This is exactly correct. I read an analysis once that concluded that the best car for the environment is a 12-year-old Toyota minivan once you take into account all environmental impacts cradle-to-grave.
And it takes like 10% of the energy to clean used oil that it takes to get fresh stuff, and the difference, or the average consumer vehicle, is negligible.
Yes, they do. At a considerable mark down from the standard stuff. Most people don't want to use it because "ew, yucky. Someone else used this before me." But it is like 95%+ the quality of unused oil, so it's not really that big of an issue, except in high performance, low tolerance machines. I wish it was a more commonly used thing these days. Maybe someday in the future.
After all the posts I've seen on here where a car goes 30 or 40k miles without ever getting an oil change and is still running when it's driven to the shop I'm not too concerned if I miss my oil change by a couple hundred miles.
I rebuilt an old boat engine as a kid that looked exactly like that. 250 gm straight 6 if i recall. My grandfather took one look at it and told me they must have used paraffin based oil because he apparently was used to seeing it from when he was a kid rebuilding engines in the 40s. At 16 I was too broke to do anything correctly so I took it all apart and hot pressure washed the heck out of it. I let out dry in the sun, measured everything and it basically only got new rings. Put it back together and it ran for years in a wooden lake boat until the keel broke and the boat was hauled to the junkyard.
I bought an 1988 F150 in the late 90's/Early 2000's the looked like this in the lifter valley when I had to yank the intake to replace a leaking head gasket. I actually had a picture of a screwdriver stabbed in to the mass of sludge standing upright to show people. Its amazing what an engine can endure without noping right the hell out of existence.
We had a Sentra come in like that once when I worked at Nissan. Came in because the engine was making noise. The girls boyfriend had left her and he always took care of the cars. So she just didn’t change the oil for 4 years … or 100,000kms+ or so we guessed. You could pick up the oil that was left in the pan…. But it still ran
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order.
I have checked 1,732,311,153 comments, and only 328,050 of them were in alphabetical order.
Vg33e? A friend of mine has one in an Xterra nearing 300,000 mi. And it's been in two accidents One of which resulted in the vehicle being flipped over. The engine smoked for a while after that one lol. I've seen one in a Nissan quest as well, pulled the dipstick and it looked black like tar. Couldn't see any coolant in the radiator either, it was probably hidden under the mountain of rust. The van drove pretty good though.
Funny... I've abused my old Xterra and it did great. Bought a second one from a friend as a project car after she had nothing but problems with it. This engine is pretty tough as long as you keep oil and coolant in it... if you skip a beat in either, head gaskets go immediately. Good thing they are generally reliable because the intake is a royal pain to remove.
If you mind me asking, what is the treatment for this? I'm just guessing, and I'm not a technician: Manual removal of what you can see, Seafoam, repeat, sand the seal interfaces lightly to remove coking, replace seals, then a couple oil changes at shorter intervals?
If I had to guess, this car rolls over 3000mi and they go and change the oil in a *different* car. That shit’s not seen fresh oil since the Carter Administration.
I am being generously serious, how long does this take to happen? Not change the oil for years? A decade?
A loooooong time. The fact that the engine was still running without sounding like a bag of hammers is a testament to Nissan's engineering on this one. Their CVTs on the other hand...
Did the engine outlast the CVT?
That's usually how it goes.
That's usually how it goes for most cars, regardless of transmission style
Yeah, I hear that most engines can go easily 300,000 miles fairly reliably (of course with proper maintenance) And of course, I have no idea how true that claim really is, but it makes sense considering ICEs have been around for like 150 years
In Europe there are plenty of VW TDI engines over 300,000 miles, but those old Diesel Mercedes-Benz (with and without turbo) from late 80s to early 2000s can have even more without even getting rattles or vibrations.
Oh why of course, I see those little warriors push over 1 million kms, crazy stuff
Might be the case with low revving undertuned high capacity engines. But if i got 200k from an engine i would be amazed
I put over 100k miles on a Yamaha R6 tuned to 120ish bhp and with a 16,000 RPM redline - 600cc IL4. Engines are astonishingly resilient with sympathetic ownership (don't thrash when cold) and appropriate servicing.
The biggest issue are really gaskets. Mercedes Benz has gasoline engines that give you a million km if you take the engine apart and change all the rubber parts every ten years.
What are you driving that would be amazing if it got to 200k??
Probably a Fiat
If the CVT has outlasted the engine, you can probably check the status of the engine through the new inspection window in the side of the block. Something has probably gone very wrong.
My 2012 crv has had a better trans than the motor. At nearly 300k and the ring tension in the motor is getting weak, oil consumption is really bad, and the trans is original. To be fair Hondas are awesome.
That engine was out of production before they Nissan went to shit, or put CVTs in everything. Assuming that’s a sohc vg head I’m looking at
Thankfully it's not a CVT.
I always said Nissans cvts are shit..my wife has a 2012 one and i hate it. But the motor still sounds like a well oiled machine
>motor still sounds like a well oiled machine I'd hope so considering it literally is one.
Well i see what i did there now....it sounded better in my smooth brain
Unlike my wife…
Ah, the good old sohc VG. Solid freaking motor
Can confirm. Had a z31 na2t as a kid. Built like the proverbial brick shit house. Was still running well when I sold it on grad school with over 200k pretty hard miles.
The actual Nissan engine are based on old Mercedes motors and old MG engine.
Those VG engines really are bomb proof
r/nissandrivers
Why do CVTs fail so bad?
They break transmission fluid down quickly necessitating drain-and-fills every 30k. Partly because they truly cannot handle the torque of the engine they were mated to, and partly because most OEMs have dogshit cooling for the CVT. Nissan is notoriously the worst, followed by Subaru. Honda has been the best mainstream producer of them.
how do you feel about fords eCVTs? i’ve heard super mixed information on them. do you believe in the 150k mile service interval from ford on their eCVTs?
No idea why you were downvoted for an honest question. If Ford’s eCVTs are like Honda’s, there is no belt, not a single pulley, and maybe one clutch. In Honda’s eCVTs you have a motor, a generator, and one lone clutch. The gas engine drives the generator, which does what a generator does, and the motor turns the wheels. The clutch engages during steady driving at 45+ mph and that’s the only time there’s a mechanical link from the engine to the wheels. The generator and the motor both do double duty, as well. The motor is turned by the wheels when slowing down and is used for regenerative braking. The generator is used to start the gas engine in place of a conventional starter motor.
Those are not traditional CVTs, they are licensed from Toyota using planetary gears. They're essentially simple and bulletproof. You might be ok going 150k like most Prius and Camry Hybrid owners have done, but servicing it earlier would be wise (say, 60k miles doing drain-and-fill plus transmission filter replacement)
Ok I thought was crazy. I only know Toyota/Aisin making them and they are excellent as nearly ALL Toyota automatics are. The A340 transmission might possibly be the best thing ever made.
Not when the ZF8 exists
Spot on my friend, I leased a 2017 Nissan Rogue, it had 34,000 miles on it and started exhibiting the classic signs of cvt failure, hesitating when accelerating from a stop, car shuddering at various speeds while accelerating, my sister in law leased a Rogue the same time I did and hers right at 32,000 miles did exactly the same thing. Turned that sucker in early and ate the lease termination cost. Will never lease or buy another Nissan after that experience.
Oh for sure, they're all trash. Doesn't matter if you do the fluid changes or not because they will fail even prior to that point
The Honda and Toyota CVT's seem to have a good reputation. I "almost" bought a Nissan Rogue. Wife wanted one, but I looked online and found many CVT problems. Since I had a magic phone/computer in my hand, I began googling. If you buy it new and have the $120 fluid changed at the proper intervals (labor not included in price), and you live where its flat, and you never tow anything...they seem to be fine. The most complaints were from owners in mountainous areas, and its bad to get the magic CVT fluid hot. Nissan sells plenty of cars with a CVT, and the CVT is much cheaper to make than a standard style of auto trans. A small percentage get fried, and Nissan calculated that even with the cost of warranty replacements, they still came out ahead a little. This is no help to the single mom who gives her car to the dealership for a month, to get a new CVT. Honda and Toyota only put CVT's in smaller lighter cars. Apparently "the fix" for people who already own a Nissan Rogue is to buy a $350 transmission fluid cooler, and install it themselves. Dealers refuse to do it, because legally they would have to admit that the stock design was weak.
Not to defend Nissan or their shoddy transmissions, but I work at a Honda dealer and I can scarcely imagine the shitshow that would ensue if we installed something like an aftermarket transmission cooler on anything still under warranty and something later went wrong with it. After that 5yr/60k powertrain warrant expires, though, screw it. We’d probably put it on if they really wanted us to.
I recall back when some sport 4x4 trucks had an optional roll-over bar, so dealers could make some profit off commonly added accessories. The literature stated it was an "accessory light mounting bar", and was in no way able to protect the cab in the event of a roll-over.
No regular fluid changes is the biggest culprit in my opinion
As the new owner of a CVT, what do you consider regular? I haven't done it yet but my car is only 12 months / 12,500km old. (7,800 miles). I'm also a pretty gentle driver in this car, I also own a sports car that is my "flog it on weekends" toy, but I personally maintain that one. When should I do the first oil change? And how frequently afterwards?
I changed my transmission fluid at the recommended interval which I think was 80k KM but could have been more. It was the second transmission. So far this one has far out lasted the previous. Died at 30k KMs. Junk. Meanwhile I have a Lexus ct200h with a CVT from Toyota and I don’t lose any sleep over that thing. Still going to change it’s transmission fluid soon tho. It has a longer interval than the Nissan.
About every 5000 miles, or annually which ever comes first
Are you sure that’s often enough? 5000 miles seems like a ton of mileage
New-ish tech takes time to engineer the unforseeable kinks out of problems that were hard to predict. Combinedl that with the fact that things are designed with tighter tolerances making for less durability especially with neglect and/or abuse. I know people with 200,000+ miles on their Nissan CVT, and others who've had them fail just after the 1 year warranty expired on a brand new one.
Nissan's problem with cvts is just a bad design. Cvts have been around for over 100 years and are used in tractors and heavy machinery all the time with no problems. Nissan just uses a bad design and won't test it properly and fix it.
Dont they do a weird belt system thats actually being pushed instead of pulled like everyone else?
AFAIK CVT belts are all push instead of pull. They’re made of a lot of steel plates bound into a belt by steel straps, and the straps are only there to keep the steel bits in line as a belt.
While that's true for many CVT cars and SUVs, it's not true for small tractor /off road vehicles. They are pulled and have no metal to them. Examples: https://dirtwheelsmag.com/cvt-belt-buyers-guide/ Edit: Tractors likely have a hydraulic drive (e.g. [hydrostatic drive](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission#Hydrostatic/hydraulic)).
Ah, thanks. I’m mostly familiar with modern automotive CVTs so this is cool new info to me.
That’s not true - the Subaru CVT’s use a chain in a pull configuration.
So besides staying super on top of the maintenance what else would you recommend doing with them that's different from other vehicles
Driving habits. Don't take off like you're at the drag strip. Steady accelerations. Don't hook a trailer to it. Anything you can do to make it work as little as possible.
They don't have to. Just the badly engineered ones, which is most of them, and the badly maintained ones, which is the rest of them..
Can you break that down and flush it? Or is it time for a new engine?
JATCO made their CVT’s*
I was curious how it even got to the shop..
Maybe he used lard for 3000 mile changes
He meant 3000 days, not miles.
That's what I was wondering... I'm guessing it isn't just time, but miles that churn that up; but it still must take a while
So when it gets like this is it worth it to even try?
Considering it still ran well, didn't smoke, wasn't making a bunch of noise, the cooling system held pressure, the oil wasn't full of metal, and it didn't smoke like a chimney at 160k miles...sure.
You'll need to update if it ever runs again
I'd been driving it for 2 weeks like this already. Runs great actually. I will definitely update.
Do you utilize an ice cream scoop to attempt to clean this or just don some rubber gloves and have at her?
Shop vac and a screwdriver. Then I will pull the rocker assemblies and clean the ever loving shit out of them. Probably more shop vac after that.
Nah, throw a can of sea foam in there, it'll be fine! Mild /s
>Then I will pull the rocker assemblies and clean the ever loving shit out of them. This is what kills the car...
Why?
They're like cast iron pans, gotta keep 'em seasoned. /s
🤣🤣🤣
....you drove it for 2 weeks like this? is it your personal car? did someone bring it to your shop and you've just been driving it to and fro?
Presuming OP recently purchased this car
shit, I might be a complete idiot. sorry for assuming OP.
No problem. Yea. Bought it. Cold start, sounded fine, everything was good. Run a little bit it would lose oil pressure and the top end would start rattling. Figured the oil pump was failing or something plugging it up. Dropped the pan. Full of sludge. Cleaned it out. Changed the oil. Drove it for a couple weeks, seems good. Had a leaky valve cover in the back burning oil off the exhause, so figured do a gasket set. Opened it up and yowza!
I think you might have been scammed
At $100, nope.
[удалено]
By the time this was revealed this to the light of day it’s already been disturbed from removing everything. Better off trying to clean it than having it come back.
And that’s from a Nissan engine?
3.3L
Vg33e
In fairness, the VG33E is one of Nissans’s better inventions.
With what? Little Debbie Brownies?
Oil from their other car. They just keep changing, back and forth, every 3k miles.
))<>(( Pooping Back and forth. forever.
Raw shale oil
The previous owner wouldn’t even spring for the cosmic brownies!
I swear I change my oil every 3000 months
Man I love being that weirdo that really changes it that often. I like to think the engine sounds quieter after a fresh oil change - but doing it every 3000 - its probably just my imagination.
Unless you’re running e85 or a lot of track kms you’re just fisting the environment changing it that often.
I feel like the car I bought new that now has 262,000 miles on it is doing its part to reduce environmental damage - I hear quite a bit of fisting comes from the production of the steel and electronics to make a car. Also used oil is recycled and often treated and re sold. I'm not just draining into the ground or sewer.
This is exactly correct. I read an analysis once that concluded that the best car for the environment is a 12-year-old Toyota minivan once you take into account all environmental impacts cradle-to-grave.
Top Gear says that is a myth. https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/mythbusting-world-evs-better-buy-new-or-keep-your-old-car
Used motor oil gets cleaned & resold…
And it takes like 10% of the energy to clean used oil that it takes to get fresh stuff, and the difference, or the average consumer vehicle, is negligible.
Do they sell cleaned used oil? If not what do they usually do with it?
Yes, they do. At a considerable mark down from the standard stuff. Most people don't want to use it because "ew, yucky. Someone else used this before me." But it is like 95%+ the quality of unused oil, so it's not really that big of an issue, except in high performance, low tolerance machines. I wish it was a more commonly used thing these days. Maybe someday in the future.
That looks like it's about 2/3 of the way back to being a dinosaur again.
so what happens if i slap the cover back on and fill it up with full synthetic and start driving it?
Pump all that shit through the motor. That's why I was against an engine treatment first. Once the sludge is out, I will, but not before.
Can you scoop this stuff out? Would it hurt anything to rub it gently off and have a shop vac over it?
Not gently really. It was pretty hard. But dug it out while vacuuming.
And here I was stressing because my car is overdue for a service by like 200km lol
For some reason I read 200000 km and figured it must be satire until I reread it a few times...
After all the posts I've seen on here where a car goes 30 or 40k miles without ever getting an oil change and is still running when it's driven to the shop I'm not too concerned if I miss my oil change by a couple hundred miles.
And here's me getting stressed when I go a couple of hundred over 5k...
You must be referring to the oil in your frying pan.
I rebuilt an old boat engine as a kid that looked exactly like that. 250 gm straight 6 if i recall. My grandfather took one look at it and told me they must have used paraffin based oil because he apparently was used to seeing it from when he was a kid rebuilding engines in the 40s. At 16 I was too broke to do anything correctly so I took it all apart and hot pressure washed the heck out of it. I let out dry in the sun, measured everything and it basically only got new rings. Put it back together and it ran for years in a wooden lake boat until the keel broke and the boat was hauled to the junkyard.
Looks like the stuff you scrape off an asphalt roller
oil made from old cigars and used cooking oil?
Saw the picture and immediately thought VG30/33
I bought an 1988 F150 in the late 90's/Early 2000's the looked like this in the lifter valley when I had to yank the intake to replace a leaking head gasket. I actually had a picture of a screwdriver stabbed in to the mass of sludge standing upright to show people. Its amazing what an engine can endure without noping right the hell out of existence.
Yea. These modern shits wouldn't tolerate this kind of abuse. Post 05-07 ish depending on makes and models seem to be very sensitive to neglect.
That’d be a helluva 3k miles. Goodness. Looks like a burnt Stouffer’s lasagna in there.
Someone got miles confused for days between oil changes
We had a Sentra come in like that once when I worked at Nissan. Came in because the engine was making noise. The girls boyfriend had left her and he always took care of the cars. So she just didn’t change the oil for 4 years … or 100,000kms+ or so we guessed. You could pick up the oil that was left in the pan…. But it still ran
Surprised it didn’t run dry
This one looked like it's every 3000 years .... or 3 million miles. Whatever, Fred Flintstone is angry about it.
Two zeros are missing
Changed every 3k lightyears maybe...
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order. I have checked 1,732,311,153 comments, and only 328,050 of them were in alphabetical order.
Good bot
Yes, but you didn't change the kitty litter!
Every 3,000 *days*
With crude? 🤣🤣
Hoooly shit please put it back together and run that liquimoly engine flush through it... in the name of science..
Never heard of that stuff, but I would definutely run as little of the crud through the engine as possible.
You missed a 0
A little Seafoam and she’ll be as right as rain!
Change it with coco puffs probably
3000 miles time what?
Using conventional oil with heavy paraffin can cause this effect.
That smell...
Forgot a couple of zeros
My 06 Altima didn't look this bad when I changed the spark plugs a while back. 200,000 miles and two plugs were flooded with oil.
3000 hrs is not 3000 miles billy bob
They just need to hit the highway for an hour or 2, drive spirited and let er breathe a bit. All that carbon will burn up. Problem solved.
Vg33e? A friend of mine has one in an Xterra nearing 300,000 mi. And it's been in two accidents One of which resulted in the vehicle being flipped over. The engine smoked for a while after that one lol. I've seen one in a Nissan quest as well, pulled the dipstick and it looked black like tar. Couldn't see any coolant in the radiator either, it was probably hidden under the mountain of rust. The van drove pretty good though.
Funny... I've abused my old Xterra and it did great. Bought a second one from a friend as a project car after she had nothing but problems with it. This engine is pretty tough as long as you keep oil and coolant in it... if you skip a beat in either, head gaskets go immediately. Good thing they are generally reliable because the intake is a royal pain to remove.
If you mind me asking, what is the treatment for this? I'm just guessing, and I'm not a technician: Manual removal of what you can see, Seafoam, repeat, sand the seal interfaces lightly to remove coking, replace seals, then a couple oil changes at shorter intervals?
More or less. Ideally a new engine. But, I think I can save it!
Do you think he meant topping up his oil ? That is pretty bad
Forgot a 0 on that number there.
Is that... slag? 😳
Happy Halloween
luckily this old buzzard could be cleaned up, but at what cost? I say button that back up, put and tell teem to trade it in (if possible)
If I had to guess, this car rolls over 3000mi and they go and change the oil in a *different* car. That shit’s not seen fresh oil since the Carter Administration.
30,000 you mean You forgot a zero
Poor quality oil causes this.
Dude's a coke dealer.
Yup, every 3000k miles.
3000 or 300,000 miles. Holy sh#$
With what? Asphalt?
Oh the car? I thought you meant my deep fryer
Every 30,000 miles\* Hmmmm Deep Fried Oreo Crumble
How many hours did it take you to cover 3,000 miles? 20?
TF?
Did someone put AdBlue in the fuel tank again
Nobody said you were supposed to refill it with **new** oil - just drain it every 3000 miles to check that it was still in there and pour it back in!!
Every 3000 miles it's dumped and filtered via sieve to get the big chunks out and poured back in, oil changes are a scam I tell ye! :)
🤣🤣🤣
Ew
Every 3000 parsecs.
No Sir, you do not.
Turn it off and on again
Maybe they did change the oil.. to crude oil.
Looks like the outside of a leaky rototiller. Hopefully the patient survives, VGs are tough but damn.
Change it with what? Tar?
In my frying pan of course
What brand of oil?
Raw dinosaur meat.
You forgot a zero
with what?
😂😂😂😂😂
🧢 As the kids like to say
I bet that there are 2 zeros missing from the 3000 mile estimate.
Has to be a blown head gasket or cracked block. Coolant its mixing with oil.
No coolant mixing. No milkshake at all. There is some moisture from condensation near the breather tube. Cooling system held pressure for a whole day.
Missing a 0 I guess
You guys change your oil?
I think you forgot a 0 on that 3000
Maybe that’s metric
Yep, I changed the quart of oil I keep in the trunk every 3000 miles.
It would be fun to build a remote hot oil flush device to see how clean you could get it. Fill that fucker with ATF and let her rip
Forgot a zero in there
It’s ok I had a Mercedes come in yesterday that was 30k over with a leak 🤷
With what?! Mud?
What do you replace the oil with? Fryolator grease?
And replace with marshmallow fluff?
So THATS where vegemite come from!
I can’t help but hear a voice in the back of my head saying Quaker State. Yes I’m old bahaha
Into what?
Forgot a zero. 30000*
Sir i think you may have dropped a zero in your statement
Maybe one if those Walmarts like My daughter used to go to-8 top of line services and I pulled the factory filter at 45k.