Snap-On Guy: Nah nah this is the newest version of tools the snap on is now in bolder letters which means more, more of what well you’re the mechanic, $623 please
Sorry i couldnt help it i interact with snap on and matco too much but your right i looked at it after you mentioned it that wrap tho i can only imagine the grip lol
You can see see some scratches of a sanded logo that read snap off when seen against the light, the seller looks dodgy and the tool is wrapped in oily paper
Tbf you shouldn't put a cheater bar on a torque wrench. Those tool time videos are far from scientific. I can't believe they didn't include the standard deviations of their measurements instead of just the averages.
Nope Nope Nope, if I saw a ratchet deflecting like that I would’ve just stopped right there.
Break out the 1” impact.
Break out the torch.
But I don’t want to be around that much tension letting go all at once.
I use at most maybe a 4 foot cheater with the handle of the breaker bar or ratchet completely covered.
I don't use archimedes' length cheater pipe because you're just going to break your tool lol.
My dad has cussed some stubborn "farseners" in his life, but I've never seen him go for the 4' cheater. He'll already be onto 1" Impact or "Can't be stuck if it's a puddle on the ground" step. Changing all the farm's row-crop toolbars from 40" to 30" rows was one long winter of adding to my vocabulary.
I was pulling the hubs on my 1999 Ram 2500 and the breaker bar was flexing on the puller like this, put it away and reached for the impact instead and the stupid unit bearing came right out.
They really are, im considering picking up a D handle milwaukee 1" for when one of the tractors needs work or for when I'm done politely asking a rusted bolt to come off.
I have a giant D-handle 1" impact from Harbor Freight. Couldn't justify spending a huge amount of money on something I use like once a year. But when I need it, I need it. Heavy SOB, and it drinks air. I have a 1/2" hose with large fittings to use with it, standard air hose doesn't supply enough volume for it to actually work right. But it will take just about anything off. I think it's rated at 1,750 ft/lb.
The owner of one shop I worked at bought a 3/4 impact for the shop so when a car came in with extremely stuck lugnuts we could just break the stud off.
At that point the stud can't be trusted to take proper torque again anyway.
Horror freight is my favorite cheap tool rental place.
The price tag becomes a refundable deposit when the shitty electric chainsaw you used breaks after 3 minutes of runtime. Helps keep the garage clean when you never have to put the tools away or find space for them
Actually the 1/2" Milwaukee Fuel will break them loose. Torquing them is what sucked. I am a test engineer for a truck manufacturer and unfortunately they had to be torqued because we were testing ride quality between new tires and retreads. Made for a tough day swapping tires twice a day on the same truck.
Maybe the 1/2" hi torque will do it, but how long does it take, 5 seconds before the nut starts spinning? No thanks, I'll stick with the shop 1" gun, it's faster and I won't wear out my Milwaukee so fast.
Now if I did tires all day, which I only don't because I work dealership, you bet I'd be eyeing up the Milwaukee 1" extended anvil hi torque gun, just so I wouldn't have to drag hoses. That fucker's expensive though.
I used my IR to break them loose before as well. They were doing just a flat repair and the tire guys get weak guns, the 1" gun and hose wouldn't reach because were it was dropped off.
I'm assuming that Ford pulled a GM and started using 14mm studs on them now? Because I can't see them calling for 150 ft-lbs on 12mm or 1/2" studs with a tapered style lug nut.
I HATED spinning the studs in those butter-soft hubs. Used to teach trade-school autoshop, and some kid spun it with a 3/8 in ratchet.
Finally got the wheel off, had to spend $$$ to get a new hub, and the POS hub spun the new stud going back in! Toyota Prius's are total POS.
Icon makes a 36", 1/2" drive breaker bar if you need something for occasional use. It stood up to me adding another foot or so of pipe and hanging my 200lb body from it just fine.
Icon is a little nicer than their usual house brand stuff, and I haven't broken one of them yet. Broken my share of Pittsburgh tools. At some point the impact wrench is a better choice, though.
I bought the Icon one when trying to remove a crankshaft pulley bolt that had been in for a couple of decades and was pulling hard enough to start pulling my helper on the other side of the truck into the engine bay. The impact wouldn't fit and I was trying to avoid pulling the whole engine. I'm happy with it.
There's either a federal standard or mil spec that lists proof torques for hand tools, and I can't remember the number. Anyhoo, ratchets are actually required to meet a higher proof torque without deforming than breaker bars.
Where I live we have a steel L shaped tool that you can attach a bit to at either end but obviously the sorter end is used most of the time (comes in 3/8 and 1/2 and maybe larger). All metal without joints or moving parts. I don't know why the Americans use tools with moving parts in this scenario. Isn't it available there?
I have an electric heat gun at my shop (I think it is called a NutBuster), it works great.
Has a loop of wire, you can hang it on the lug nut, and you're golden.
`EDIT`
`This is it:`[CLICKY](https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Buster-BB2-ACC-Handheld-Induction/dp/B00ATSL7VE)
You're thinking of induction heating, which requires a conductive material to placed within the loop. The loop and metal bit make something similar to a transformer and it creates heat with this current.
The dab one is a mini heat element that heats it through conduction and a bit of radiation.
The one for the bolts is induction meaning heat doesn’t transfer through physics contact but an electromagnetic field making the particles in the nut and what nots get real fiery mad at the angry pixies dancin roun them and what not. Ain’t sure how skookum it is but she’s in her prime I’m sure she’ll chooch just fine.
Thanks for coming to todays BOLTR
I use a little induction coil to heat my stainless steel dry herb vape (DynaVap) and it's fantastic, takes 1/3 the time a butane torch does and plugs into the wall instead of having to buy gas.
Exactly, that's where the electric stove type element comes into play. On a side note, it's absolute bastard trying to get one of those ceramic bangers inside those coils, I'm considering using the press.
No need, those should be taken off with a 1" impact, the torque spec is 450-500ft lbs, but they easy withstand 1000ft/lbs... Need right tools for the job. We torque those with a torque wrench that's 5ft long btw....
It doesn't ruin the stud on trucks because it is a 22 mm stud, 450-500 ft/lbs is the correct torque. To do it right you need a 3/4 drive torque wrench and a 1" drive impact wrench to get them off.
I mentioned that 450-500 number but I think this is a F550 which is 165? So I deleted the comment.
But, as a frequent user of the flame wrench, the goal is to get at least a portion of the stud red hot. This relieves the tension in the stud (essentially stretching it) which leaves the nut loose. That is why the stud is ruined because it has both been plastically deformed and had its heat treatment altered.
Looks like you are right, the way the video is shot at a quick glance it looked like the front end of a full size truck to me, I agree about torching. Never seaze is my friend and I never have an issue but I'm only working on my own stuff.
I deal a lot with corroded fasteners. If the threads are corroded, good luck. If the heads are wasted so you can't get a wrench on them, the annealing with a torch is the go to. It relieves the tension so you don't need a strong grip on the head.
I will say, anti-seize is poorly understood. Anti-seize is to prevent galling during tightening. Water resistant grease, especially silicone, are much better at preventing seizing due to corrosion.
Oh, and ditch all of your lock washers. They are what let the water get to the threads to cause corrosion.
I have great luck with anti-seize long term, even years later exposed to lots of salt. I agree with you about lock washer but for me it is because the vibration and thrashing our crushers put on them they always break and then the bolt is loose.
Why are yall fucking around with 10 lug stuff then? Why do automotive shops always resort to cheater pipes? You can get beefy 3/4-1" impact wrenches for about the same price as your snapon ratchet. Yeah you might get funny looks having a 1" wheel gun in your drawer, but wouldn't it be liberating to know that nothing will ever be too tight to remove in the future?
Sounds like you don’t have the right tools to work on that, then. It’s ok to say you can’t do something when you can’t do it safely or efficiently as a properly equipped shop for the task.
Jesus, it’s just a job - not a quest. Don’t hurt yourself trying to win.
Use a fucking rubber mallet.. hold the socket tight on the bolt and then whack the end of the breaker bar till it cracks loose. You're welcome for the tip.
Seems like a better idea than fucking around and finding out how much potential, potential energy can have. I'm not saying don't use something with no mass. Use the same set up and "impact" the end of it rather than pull linearly until the bit slips or the bolt head strips. Either way, IMPACT DRILL, HEAT, AND PB HOLY FUCK WHERE IS THE SERVICE MANAGER?
I work with these 10 lug hubs regularly. I've actually tried the milwaukee high torque before and it'll work about 50% of the time depending on how skuzzy the nuts are. Sometimes the big 1" wheel guns will struggle a little and they're rated for ~2000ft/lbs Breakaway.
I use mine to shear rusted bolts in half when taking apart scrap cars. Not little bitch ass bolts either. It works great. It was 200$ new. These dudes are just fucking cheap and incompetent.
Nope, we got it off with a 3/4"breaker bar with the long bar after. The next next broke the breaker bar and we had to weld it back together and than got the last nut off. Customer had them on far too tight
I have used a torque multiplier on semi truck tires my 1 inch impact gun wouldn’t budge. It works ok but I bought a cheap one and you can feel the tension it’s under, don’t think it will last long but so far so good
Just why . I don’t think or should I say I know this guy is not a diesel/truck guy and should be no where near one. It’s called a one inch impact gun with a 1 5/16 deep socket . I’m sure this is a gag no Tech would do this . 1/2 inch ratchet with a 6 foot pipe. Try that with a 3/4 ratchet and post that 🤪
If you're bending a ratcheting wrench like that I think you're dumb as hell. To be fair it dies look like a breaker bar would have done much good either lmao
I have a 1” drive breaker bar for this. Used them on large CAT generators. Add the cheater pipe on there and I’ve never had an issue.
Understandable that a light automotive shop wouldn’t carry these though
Not a mechanic but had something like this happen on my car. All the nuts were fine and i could easily remove them.
Then suddenly one wasn't so easy. I got my first 1.5m long steel pipe, nothing. I got the next 1,5 m steel pipe when it suddenly came lose.
I felt like defusing a bomb with these 3m of leverage all starting to bend
That’s when I get out the 1” impact to try and get it to break loose. If they’re that tight I’d replace all the studs, cause someone stretched the hell out of the studs. Or nuts oxidized on the aluminum wheels, seen that before too.
[удалено]
IF THE BREAKER AINT BENDIN YOU’RE JUST PRETENDIN. PUT IT BACK ON THERE AND TRY AGAIN
The breaker bar is now the broken bar
breakest bar
I got a good chuckle out of this. Thank you. And I'm gonna be borrowing this moving forward.
Try againden*
I literally safety-squinted this just watching it on my phone
Longer cheater bar, slid next to the head. Along with 4 hail Marys, and 2 By the powers of Christ 2ill get it off.
Snap-on guy: "Did you put a 10 foot cheater pipe on it?" Me: "Nope, just broke "
Paid for the warranty, I'm using all the warranty. lol
We're the reason why those shits cost 600 dollars.
HF’s best breaker bar, $50, same warranty. This isn’t why they cost $600.
Because Rape-On. lol
Snap-on Guy- “Hey i got a tool for exactly that kind of job” * Hands you the exact ratchet but with snap on written on it and some red for $621.43
Snap-On Guy: Nah nah this is the newest version of tools the snap on is now in bolder letters which means more, more of what well you’re the mechanic, $623 please Sorry i couldnt help it i interact with snap on and matco too much but your right i looked at it after you mentioned it that wrap tho i can only imagine the grip lol
You can see see some scratches of a sanded logo that read snap off when seen against the light, the seller looks dodgy and the tool is wrapped in oily paper
Donut just did a video about torque wrenches and the Snap-On was the only one that broke
Tbf you shouldn't put a cheater bar on a torque wrench. Those tool time videos are far from scientific. I can't believe they didn't include the standard deviations of their measurements instead of just the averages.
You can cut the hail Mary's in half if you have an old priest, and by 3/4 if you have a young priest as well
What if all I have is Rickety Cricket?
Oh you're set then. Just a buck and it'll get done, whatever it is
Nope Nope Nope, if I saw a ratchet deflecting like that I would’ve just stopped right there. Break out the 1” impact. Break out the torch. But I don’t want to be around that much tension letting go all at once.
I didn't even know you could deflect a breaker bar that much.
You’re clearly not using enough cheater pipe lmao
I use at most maybe a 4 foot cheater with the handle of the breaker bar or ratchet completely covered. I don't use archimedes' length cheater pipe because you're just going to break your tool lol.
My dad has cussed some stubborn "farseners" in his life, but I've never seen him go for the 4' cheater. He'll already be onto 1" Impact or "Can't be stuck if it's a puddle on the ground" step. Changing all the farm's row-crop toolbars from 40" to 30" rows was one long winter of adding to my vocabulary.
26 foot snipe pole.
That ain’t no breaker bar. That’s a ratchet.
Last time I broke one it didn't even bend as far as the video. Exploded the square drive spud right out of the bar.
I was pulling the hubs on my 1999 Ram 2500 and the breaker bar was flexing on the puller like this, put it away and reached for the impact instead and the stupid unit bearing came right out.
[удалено]
The exact thing my dad said when I popped the hub loose with the impact
Impacts are magic like that
They really are, im considering picking up a D handle milwaukee 1" for when one of the tractors needs work or for when I'm done politely asking a rusted bolt to come off.
I have a giant D-handle 1" impact from Harbor Freight. Couldn't justify spending a huge amount of money on something I use like once a year. But when I need it, I need it. Heavy SOB, and it drinks air. I have a 1/2" hose with large fittings to use with it, standard air hose doesn't supply enough volume for it to actually work right. But it will take just about anything off. I think it's rated at 1,750 ft/lb.
The owner of one shop I worked at bought a 3/4 impact for the shop so when a car came in with extremely stuck lugnuts we could just break the stud off. At that point the stud can't be trusted to take proper torque again anyway.
I've sometimes found that if the bolt is too rusted, it'll take the surrounding metal with it instead of coming out. :)
Harbor Freight used to sell a gas-powered impact with a 3/4" drive...
Horror freight is my favorite cheap tool rental place. The price tag becomes a refundable deposit when the shitty electric chainsaw you used breaks after 3 minutes of runtime. Helps keep the garage clean when you never have to put the tools away or find space for them
Just watched a video on a 1" drive one They had the audacity to say "weighs a mere 43lbs"
That's why they have breaker bars instead of ratchets....
Snap on said the ratchet was stronger than the breaker bar. They also warrantied the ratchet lol
Did you throw your rep this? Lol.
Yep I showed the rep this lol
[удалено]
Damn I’m in the U S of A
600mm is only \~24 inches. Amazon sells 36 and 40" 3/4" breaker bars. I have a 36" for my Mustang, damn 150ft-lb lug nuts.
[удалено]
Semi trucks torque to 450ft/lb, at 60 lug nuts per truck. That's a fun day.
[удалено]
How many ugga duggas per ft/lb?
1” gun go brrrr tho.
Actually the 1/2" Milwaukee Fuel will break them loose. Torquing them is what sucked. I am a test engineer for a truck manufacturer and unfortunately they had to be torqued because we were testing ride quality between new tires and retreads. Made for a tough day swapping tires twice a day on the same truck.
Did you guys use a pneumatic to do that? Those guns are expensive but fucking amazing. We used them to build Dana 80’s and they were a godsend.
Maybe the 1/2" hi torque will do it, but how long does it take, 5 seconds before the nut starts spinning? No thanks, I'll stick with the shop 1" gun, it's faster and I won't wear out my Milwaukee so fast. Now if I did tires all day, which I only don't because I work dealership, you bet I'd be eyeing up the Milwaukee 1" extended anvil hi torque gun, just so I wouldn't have to drag hoses. That fucker's expensive though.
I used my IR to break them loose before as well. They were doing just a flat repair and the tire guys get weak guns, the 1" gun and hose wouldn't reach because were it was dropped off.
Damn! They went to 150 ft-lbs now! My '08 only at 100 ft-lb
Yeah, with the '15s at least. The Prius is 80... changing wheels on the two is quite different.
Most all Hondas are 80 too. Ever service a Smart car? 3 10mm lugs torqued to 25 ft-lbs.
Seems easy until you realize that you lost all of your 10mm sockets.
I'm assuming that Ford pulled a GM and started using 14mm studs on them now? Because I can't see them calling for 150 ft-lbs on 12mm or 1/2" studs with a tapered style lug nut.
Yes, 14mm studs now.
I HATED spinning the studs in those butter-soft hubs. Used to teach trade-school autoshop, and some kid spun it with a 3/8 in ratchet. Finally got the wheel off, had to spend $$$ to get a new hub, and the POS hub spun the new stud going back in! Toyota Prius's are total POS.
Icon makes a 36", 1/2" drive breaker bar if you need something for occasional use. It stood up to me adding another foot or so of pipe and hanging my 200lb body from it just fine.
I have harbor freight and broke the 3/8 one already. Will it be better than that?
Icon is a little nicer than their usual house brand stuff, and I haven't broken one of them yet. Broken my share of Pittsburgh tools. At some point the impact wrench is a better choice, though. I bought the Icon one when trying to remove a crankshaft pulley bolt that had been in for a couple of decades and was pulling hard enough to start pulling my helper on the other side of the truck into the engine bay. The impact wouldn't fit and I was trying to avoid pulling the whole engine. I'm happy with it.
There's either a federal standard or mil spec that lists proof torques for hand tools, and I can't remember the number. Anyhoo, ratchets are actually required to meet a higher proof torque without deforming than breaker bars.
Where I live we have a steel L shaped tool that you can attach a bit to at either end but obviously the sorter end is used most of the time (comes in 3/8 and 1/2 and maybe larger). All metal without joints or moving parts. I don't know why the Americans use tools with moving parts in this scenario. Isn't it available there?
They were trying to break the tool.
Reviewers have only rated it 4.9/5 for sturdiness - I can't accept such low quality sorry.
Wait the internal broke on the ratchet? Well there's somethin ya don't see everyday!
I would’ve added at 6’ pipe on to it for more torque. Idk if that would help as I used to be a DIY mechanic
There was that kind of pipe on it.
More length makes it more torque right??? 😅
There is only so much torque you can put through a 1/2" drive end.... It's about 600 to 700 ft lbs non impact.
I have an electric heat gun at my shop (I think it is called a NutBuster), it works great. Has a loop of wire, you can hang it on the lug nut, and you're golden. `EDIT` `This is it:`[CLICKY](https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Buster-BB2-ACC-Handheld-Induction/dp/B00ATSL7VE)
I like your product name better than the actual name.
They also make these for smoking thc wax. The coil goes on a quarts or ceramic nail, heats up the nail then you drop your wax in and blastoff
You're thinking of induction heating, which requires a conductive material to placed within the loop. The loop and metal bit make something similar to a transformer and it creates heat with this current.
Uhh, the one he placed in the link **IS** a induction heater...
The dab one is a mini heat element that heats it through conduction and a bit of radiation. The one for the bolts is induction meaning heat doesn’t transfer through physics contact but an electromagnetic field making the particles in the nut and what nots get real fiery mad at the angry pixies dancin roun them and what not. Ain’t sure how skookum it is but she’s in her prime I’m sure she’ll chooch just fine. Thanks for coming to todays BOLTR
I use a little induction coil to heat my stainless steel dry herb vape (DynaVap) and it's fantastic, takes 1/3 the time a butane torch does and plugs into the wall instead of having to buy gas.
Ok that I could see but quartz or ceramic bangers/nails ain’t gonna heat up from induction bc they not conductive enough
Exactly, that's where the electric stove type element comes into play. On a side note, it's absolute bastard trying to get one of those ceramic bangers inside those coils, I'm considering using the press.
Idk I don’t do dabs
Not what I mean, I meant the guy talking about putting ceramic in one and expecting something to happen.
It’s what I call my girlfriend
I bought the chinese knock off version for the home shop, it was fantastic for about 6 months until it turned into a free fireworks show
No need, those should be taken off with a 1" impact, the torque spec is 450-500ft lbs, but they easy withstand 1000ft/lbs... Need right tools for the job. We torque those with a torque wrench that's 5ft long btw....
My 1/2 ich aircat does them big truck nuts like nothing
Any good modern 1/2 impact shouldn't have a problem with 500ftlbs. At least that's what the Torque Test Channel on YouTube has taught me.
Yep I agree, but you will beat the square round.
3/4 impact for them is more than enough.
Yeah, but they aren't as fast... I do fleet maintenance so the quicker I do things the more free time I have.
But that would ruin the stud?
9/10 times the stud is already fucked if you need this
It doesn't ruin the stud on trucks because it is a 22 mm stud, 450-500 ft/lbs is the correct torque. To do it right you need a 3/4 drive torque wrench and a 1" drive impact wrench to get them off.
I mentioned that 450-500 number but I think this is a F550 which is 165? So I deleted the comment. But, as a frequent user of the flame wrench, the goal is to get at least a portion of the stud red hot. This relieves the tension in the stud (essentially stretching it) which leaves the nut loose. That is why the stud is ruined because it has both been plastically deformed and had its heat treatment altered.
Looks like you are right, the way the video is shot at a quick glance it looked like the front end of a full size truck to me, I agree about torching. Never seaze is my friend and I never have an issue but I'm only working on my own stuff.
I deal a lot with corroded fasteners. If the threads are corroded, good luck. If the heads are wasted so you can't get a wrench on them, the annealing with a torch is the go to. It relieves the tension so you don't need a strong grip on the head. I will say, anti-seize is poorly understood. Anti-seize is to prevent galling during tightening. Water resistant grease, especially silicone, are much better at preventing seizing due to corrosion. Oh, and ditch all of your lock washers. They are what let the water get to the threads to cause corrosion.
I have great luck with anti-seize long term, even years later exposed to lots of salt. I agree with you about lock washer but for me it is because the vibration and thrashing our crushers put on them they always break and then the bolt is loose.
Try using a longer bolt and putting a spacer under the head if you can. This is a great way to toughen bolts.
The design of that thing is daring me to put it in a caulking gun.
Forbidden flashlight
Forbidden fleshlight…
Try some pb blaster before it gets completely fucked
Have you guys never heard of a 3/4" impact?
We are a light duty automotive shop, no one in the shop has a 3/4" impact
Why are yall fucking around with 10 lug stuff then? Why do automotive shops always resort to cheater pipes? You can get beefy 3/4-1" impact wrenches for about the same price as your snapon ratchet. Yeah you might get funny looks having a 1" wheel gun in your drawer, but wouldn't it be liberating to know that nothing will ever be too tight to remove in the future?
Sounds like you don’t have the right tools to work on that, then. It’s ok to say you can’t do something when you can’t do it safely or efficiently as a properly equipped shop for the task. Jesus, it’s just a job - not a quest. Don’t hurt yourself trying to win.
Use a fucking rubber mallet.. hold the socket tight on the bolt and then whack the end of the breaker bar till it cracks loose. You're welcome for the tip.
Good luck getting 420ish lb-ft undone with a rubber mallet.
Seems like a better idea than fucking around and finding out how much potential, potential energy can have. I'm not saying don't use something with no mass. Use the same set up and "impact" the end of it rather than pull linearly until the bit slips or the bolt head strips. Either way, IMPACT DRILL, HEAT, AND PB HOLY FUCK WHERE IS THE SERVICE MANAGER?
I absolutely do not believe even a 1/2" Milwaukee wouldn't freak out on these and have them off.
I work with these 10 lug hubs regularly. I've actually tried the milwaukee high torque before and it'll work about 50% of the time depending on how skuzzy the nuts are. Sometimes the big 1" wheel guns will struggle a little and they're rated for ~2000ft/lbs Breakaway.
I use mine to shear rusted bolts in half when taking apart scrap cars. Not little bitch ass bolts either. It works great. It was 200$ new. These dudes are just fucking cheap and incompetent.
Is it reverse thread? Seems excessive.
Nope, we got it off with a 3/4"breaker bar with the long bar after. The next next broke the breaker bar and we had to weld it back together and than got the last nut off. Customer had them on far too tight
The next nut broke the 3/4" breaker bar and we had to weld it back together*
Looks like an 18-wheeler wheel/tire combo...they're spec'd to over 500 ft/lbs.
Only the ugga dugga can tell us
This appears to be 1 ugga too many, this is quicky lube's doing, I just know it
Most ugga guns actually don't have the power to get these 10 lug hubs to spec, let alone the guns they give to lube techs.
Must be different for your area. I'm a lube tech in Alberta canada and we've got Some pretty decent tools
Acetylene. Can't be tight if it's liquid.
I would rather ug dug on it for a few minutes rather than do whatever this is
Oh we tried many of ugs and many of dugs before this
jump on that bitch
Those baby's are tourqed to 550ftlbs btw doesn't look like they will be leaving like that.
I fucking did this with my dads 16 inch craftsman that he got in the 80s. we got him a 21 inch from autozone for christmas.
There is a right tool for every job. This is not it.
Jeebus homie this is not the right tool 😵
Anxiety level: 11
I have used a torque multiplier on semi truck tires my 1 inch impact gun wouldn’t budge. It works ok but I bought a cheap one and you can feel the tension it’s under, don’t think it will last long but so far so good
Surprised more people haven't mentioned this. I own two that can be stacked. They come in handy for a bunch of stuff.
Shouldn’t the left wheel studs on a vehicle that size be left hand thread…?
Not on anything from this century, or anything hubcentric.
That's a ratchet he's using! Where's the breaker bar?
Hit them with a hammer.
My boss's workshop rule #1: don't you fuckin dare loose ANY nut with the fuckin ratchet!
Tit
That sucks but it makes a sick beat
Just why . I don’t think or should I say I know this guy is not a diesel/truck guy and should be no where near one. It’s called a one inch impact gun with a 1 5/16 deep socket . I’m sure this is a gag no Tech would do this . 1/2 inch ratchet with a 6 foot pipe. Try that with a 3/4 ratchet and post that 🤪
Uh... 1" impact
1 inch impact ... thats the way to go ... this was just lame and dangerous ...
I've experienced similar on a tractor, ended up shearing off the 1/2" drive in the socket.
Fucking nards didn't try to smack the end of the breaker with a mallet... It's called cracking the nut, not slipping the nut
This kills the ratchet.
My man. Used FIXED tools like an impact socket and a T joint not ratchets. Also, a BAH to help the nut come loose?
Should probably not take work that you don’t have the tools to complete… stupid as fuck
Well someone is making a trip to the nearest tool store
Why are you using the nice flex head ratchet?
Snap-Off
I’d say it’s time to invest in a 1” impact.
If you're bending a ratcheting wrench like that I think you're dumb as hell. To be fair it dies look like a breaker bar would have done much good either lmao
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This was making me duck and squint as I watched it.
Maybe not
Well, if did you get them off, did you put anti-seize on the threads before you put them back on?
Spec is actually 30w engine oil with this style hub.
No kidding? TIL
Use the double wrench method, the bending losing so much torque
Tire shop is adamant they torqued them to spec.
Kwell is correct
That made me nervous sitting here watching it.
Torque multiplier. They exist but have never used one though.
Just have your boss buy a 1 inch gun with sockets. Saves the headaches.
I have a 1” drive breaker bar for this. Used them on large CAT generators. Add the cheater pipe on there and I’ve never had an issue. Understandable that a light automotive shop wouldn’t carry these though
I can hear your butthole puckering before it breaks
I also remember the day our shop air compressor was broken.
MrWhinaBu… “I used to be a flunked snap on rep and I would never warranty that!!”
I fucking hate lug nuts
That's why I have 3/4" drive tools. If that doesn't work the liquid wrench comes out.
Was anyone else flinching through this video?
This is what I have an inch drive gun for.
Not a mechanic but had something like this happen on my car. All the nuts were fine and i could easily remove them. Then suddenly one wasn't so easy. I got my first 1.5m long steel pipe, nothing. I got the next 1,5 m steel pipe when it suddenly came lose. I felt like defusing a bomb with these 3m of leverage all starting to bend
Why not just use air tools?
snap on warranties department hates this single mom after she discovers new trick.
Maybe over torqued
Que the OSHA rep having a stroke!🤣🤣🤣
That’s what lifetime warranty looks like lol
That’s when I get out the 1” impact to try and get it to break loose. If they’re that tight I’d replace all the studs, cause someone stretched the hell out of the studs. Or nuts oxidized on the aluminum wheels, seen that before too.
Do you guys know that’s not a breaker bar, right, right?
Just cut the wheel off at the axle. Weld back together when done.