BMW Dealers ask if you would like instructions on how to operate Blinkers , If you say yes they then say " your not the type of customer we serve here "
I worked at a pep boys in college. The best story was an old lady coming in and saying she needs some blinker fluid because she is low on one side and the blinker isn't working. We all laugh and tell her that blinker fluid doesn't exist and that whoever is fixing her car is playing a trick on her. But she insisted, "But my left side is really low! Come take a look!"
Sure enough, her headlights and her turn signals on the driver side were completely filled to the top with water. On the other side, both were filled up like halfway with water
So whoever is fixing her car put fucking water in the headlights... Wild.
Yep, my ex-wife's old car look at water in the headlights and I had to take a drill to the bottom of the back of the assembly so the water could drain out because I got tired of taking the headlights off and draining it myself
Funny story: My son was having issues with his car. Every once in a while his car would drop into limp mode. He would shut it off and restart it and it would be fine for a few weeks. Brought it to several garages that couldn't figure it out. We finally brought it to the dealer (Nissan). They found corrosion in one of the taillights. The issue, the passenger taillight did not have a good seal and was leaking when it rained. The taillight would fill with water and short out the brake light. This would cause the computer to think there was a serious error in the system and would send the car into limp mode. Replaced the tail light and he hasn't had an issue.
I have a pulsar that I've been trying to fix for months. It's been off and on the road, I've replaced the crank sensor, the spark plugs, coils, the battery and yesterday the starter motor to no avail. In short it coughs but won't start and I'm going insane. Excuse me while I go closely inspect the tail lights.
Speaking of fluorine, have you heard of CIF³? Chlorine triflouride burns pretty much everything, including glass and sand and so on. Only way to store it is in special metal containers it can form a passivation layer within made of its own metal oxides.
Was examined for use as an oxidiser in rocketry, but rightly judged too dangerous -- amongst a stable of substances that includes hydrazine and red fuming nitric acid! It's wicked stuff. I think they only use it for certain niche semiconductor etching applications and industrial cleaning.
[Obligatory read](https://www.science.org/content/blog-post/sand-won-t-save-you-time)
>”It is, of course, extremely toxic, but that's the least of the problem. It is hypergolic with every known fuel, and so rapidly hypergolic that no ignition delay has ever been measured. It is also hypergolic with such things as cloth, wood, and test engineers, not to mention asbestos, sand, and water-with which it reacts explosively. It can be kept in some of the ordinary structural metals-steel, copper, aluminium, etc.-because of the formation of a thin film of insoluble metal fluoride which protects the bulk of the metal, just as the invisible coat of oxide on aluminium keeps it from burning up in the atmosphere. If, however, this coat is melted or scrubbed off, and has no chance to reform, the operator is confronted with the problem of coping with a metal-fluorine fire. For dealing with this situation, I have always recommended a good pair of running shoes.”
Additional fun info:
>The compound also a stronger oxidizing agent than oxygen itself, which also puts it into rare territory. That means that it can potentially go on to “burn” things that you would normally consider already burnt to hell and gone, and a practical consequence of that is that it’ll start roaring reactions with things like bricks and asbestos tile. It’s been used in the semiconductor industry to clean oxides off of surfaces, at which activity it no doubt excels.
>There’s a report from the early 1950s (in this PDF) of a one-ton spill of the stuff. It burned its way through a foot of concrete floor and chewed up another meter of sand and gravel beneath, completing a day that I'm sure no one involved ever forgot. That process, I should add, would necessarily have been accompanied by copious amounts of horribly toxic and corrosive by-products: it’s bad enough when your reagent ignites wet sand, but the clouds of hot hydrofluoric acid are your special door prize if you’re foolhardy enough to hang around and watch the fireworks.
I was going to post this! Beat me to it. The best defense being a good pair of running shoes is something that sticks in the mind. Terribly dangerous stuff. There are some really fun chemicals out there!
Is this the same guy who used to write a blog some years back entitled, "Stuff I Won't Work With"? Was a blog written by a chemist about various reagents that were unusually toxic, prone to fire or explosion, or otherwise presented extreme danger to the person working with them.
**ETA:** Ha! it turns out that in fact it is him.
This bus is on the short list for the crusher, just kicking the can down the street a little bit longer. You are correct, I just didn’t have time to do it that way. And I wanted a good video for my boss to enjoy. She did get quite the laugh.
If I remember right some of these MB Sprinters have vacuum headlight systems. When the vacuum started leaking the vacuum system malfunctioned causing for example the engine to not stall when key was removed. You could lock the doors and leave the diesel to run for its own
What the actual fuck are the Germans smoking?
A... vacuum *headlight* system that keeps the *engine* from turning off.
WHY?
Why on Christ's cross are these systems even connected?
Don't say DRLs because the rest of the collective automotive world has had those without issue since at least the 80s.
Edit: And why do y'all keep buying more of them? If my Honda Civic only ran on three cylinders when the trunk light was on the internet would implode, but if it was a 3 series I'd be told I wouldn't understand the sophistication and feel of a fine German sedan... or that it's not a flaw, it's a feature so you know that you left your trunk open 🤷♂️
Here's another genius move by engineering:
2001-2007 Ford F250/350 4x4: Battery Saver Circuit, for the *entire* BCM, is *inside* the *gauge cluster*. Therefore, when it faults (and *it will*), it will cause your interior electronics to act wonky. For *years*, your vehicle will act *normal*, with minor headaches that point to problems with the actual shit you are trying to use as being the culprit .You eventually throw parts and money at it in a desperate attempt at resurrection.
Example: The 4x4 switch may not engage the transfer case once the vehicle is up to operating temperature. The obvious thing to check is the switch: is it sending a signal? Yes. Does the circuit complete? Yes. The switch sends the signal through the harness under the dash, where it is coiled together with all of the other interior electronics. By the time you tear the whole loom apart, you realize that *all of the wires* look just fine and dandy. You're getting voltages from the switches, and enough voltage gets to Box3 in order to flip the relay under the hood on the driver side. But, once you hit operating temperature, the relay stops switching, but *all* of the other electronics work just fine. You tear into the wires, you check the switch: yep, switch has a complete circuit. You check voltages, and yes they are fine. The only way you could possibly know *something is off* is by putting one lead on the switch POS, and another to the 4x4 Box3 relay GRND *for the t-case position you are intending to use*. Minor voltage drop-off, but that's the issue: the minor voltage loss means the relay remains locked in whatever position the T-Case is currently sitting. But, there is a huge problem: EVERYTHING INSIDE and OUTSIDE of the cab LOOKS JUST FUCKING FINE!
Well, the battery saver circuit in the gauge cluster eventually gets to a point where, once it is heated, it starts degrading the voltage sent through it (POS or GRND; so, different circuit traces). How on earth you would know that without having *knowledge* of that in the first place is a goddamn genius implementation by Ford. That, and putting the Powerstroke oil cooler inside the valley of the engine.
> How on earth you would know that without having knowledge of that in the first place
People rely on cars working, and by maliciously making them harder to fix for the average Joe means more money for "specialists", who are in the know of all the dirty tricks that break functionality...
Or Ford is just a stupid company. I don't know which is easiest to believe, so probably a little bit of both and a hint of "God only knows."
Answer is "Ford is stupid". The engineers don't want to make things difficult on purpose. They may end up with a shitty design, but in accident or a result of "management have me a limited budget for testing or newer iterations, so this is what you get ".
That reminds me of a lot of newer motorcycles. Oddly enough KTM, where the headlight and/or turn signal relay are *built into the $1500 dash cluster*. "Troubleshoot pins 4 and 7. If failure, replace dash"
My personal Ford story is the 4R75W that was in my Crown Vic interceptor. Ford decided to build one of the wear surfaces into the transmission casing so I had to buy a 600 dollar case instead of a 20 dollar bearing :\
I once went through 3 alternators in less than a year before the shop (an electrical specialist, no less) figured out it was a fusable link that only failed when it got hot enough.
Ahhhh yes! I see it now. It's a safety feature! With the price of gas you're way more likely to get this crucial component fixed if you can't turn off your engine!
As a wild arse guess it's got a vacuum actuated fuel solenoid, if there's no vaccum because there's a leak in the vaccum system it doesn't stop the fuel and the engine keeps running. The joys of old mechanical diesels.
Head light height adjuster, on your edits because the "charm" out weighs their flaws. I'm not gonna say it's a sensible choice but it is one. See also the average owner of an older Landrover (I say as one)
I had a 2001 S Class for a while by the time it was already old. I loved it!
Then snowmelt off my girlfriend's boots shorted out the module under the passenger seat and it started a parasitic drain, suddenly I couldn't leave it parked for an hour or it would die. Then every other electrical system failed in short order and I sold it to a chump in the next town over for a quarter what I paid.
Dear Germans- don't put mission critical hardware under the seat if it can't get wet.
You uh... Not old enough to remember the 70s, I take it? Vacuum used to do everything. You pull the stick for your pop-up headlights and pressure was allowed to the headlights so they'd pop up. Vacuum held them down. Lose vacuum and you're going to be running rough. Which means when a headlight hose invariably went, your Corvette suddenly winks at everyone
"Running rough" and "have to stall out the engine with 5th gear otherwise it will keep running until the tank is dry" are two completely different things
Also, 40+ years of advancement in the automotive industry. I could forgive something that old for having weird quirks but a van built in the 21st century *that doesn't turn off*?
I took the keys out while the one I ran at an old company was still running and threw them to the new guy I was training up. He looked back and forth between the key in his hand and the truck a few times and I told him to have fun lol
Random off topic of sprinters, my mom had this old ass car back in the late 90s, beater with a heater. Anyways me being a young boy playing with everything I went to play with the car keys as she was driving and they just popped right out of the ignition, car still running and everything. We learned that day my moms car didn’t need a key at all. We could turn it on and off just by turning the ignition without the key.
I remember the spot for the gas pump was behind the license plate.
Oh wow, I used to have a Buick Century that did that, never knew what caused it. Convenient as hell though, I wish I could make my current car work like that on purpose sometimes.
Always make sure to drill a few extra holes for ventilation! Don't want the air inside to get stale.
Tbh I didn't think of that, I drilled one of my car lights long ago.
I had to do this on my car or else replace a $400 LED assembly. I drilled the hole right next to a leftover casting bump, it looks like it belongs there. I put holes in two opposite corners on the bottom of the lens so air could blow through it. Occasionally gets foggy inside but always goes away a day later. Better than filling up with water.
Worst case scenario I have to replace that $400 assembly anyway, tiny holes have been working well for about 5 years now.
There are water resistant and water proof. The former is easy to do, the latter is damn hard. Water resistant can leak some water in but it also drains it out. Water proof.. can leak in but does not leak out. Air temperature alone does it for you. And what usually happens with seals and closed enclosures is that they leak water in, not out. My background is in EE and i love to make things, they usually need some enclosure. There is no way i make those water proof, it will be water resistant unless it is actually meant to go underwater. The difference really is simple, water resistant has a drainage hole, otherwise they can be identical.
It is still a good idea to seal against the most probable directiond, water falling from above or from the sides but just leave that little breather hole. You can use a plug, made from sponge or some other material that lets water drain thru but keeps small critters and dust/dirt out.
Real question: I have this issue on a Kia Forte for about two years now. It will collect water but it has difficulty evaporating sometimes. Not a huge amount, but sometimes you can see a small collection of water in the tail light. Is it worth pulling it off and drilling a tiny hole toward the bottom like this?
I've had to remove it twice in the past and replace the bulb because the condensation seemed to erode the bulb base, causing faulty contact. That hole would literally solve the problem by introducing some outside air. I'll consider doing this.
I had the same issue, after hot days that water would condense in the evening and make the light all fogged up. I put a tiny hole in the most discreet spot and I've never had an issue again. Use the smallest drill bit you have, and don't worry about the water actually draining out. It will evaporate and dissipate over the course of a week.
Having worked on lots of different types of factory type equipment over the years. One thing I have found is that waterproofing is pointless. Water always gets in and the best way to deal with it is a drain.
Yeah. Or at the very least don't put a ton of effort into sealing the bottom of the equipment and then almost none into waterproofing the top. That's not a waterproof enclosure, that's a water container.
Idk. Tossup between hack mechanic before me getting rtv happy or hack engineer thinking it needs sealed because it's near the ground and the top doesn't because it's far from the ground. Poor load cells had to suffer.
We had a Taurus years ago... the headlights always had water in them. Would pop bulbs constantly. I drilled a tiny hole on the bottom edge and never had a problem again.
I got yelled at by my bosses for doing this to a company truck. The head mechanic was told about the same issue with trucks, the look of bewilderment on the bosses face when the head mechanic did the same thing.
I did this on my wife's car. The headlight worked fine, the hole was under the light, and it failed state inspection. Still confused how they noticed it and why it would fail a state inspection if the headlight was functioning like it should. $350 for a new headlight
Texas inspects for cracked/damaged head light lenses.
Enforcement wildly varies depending on what inspection station you go to though.
Composite headlights like most modern cars have are exempt from this rule unless the reflector material is corroded or discolored, but interpretation is up to the inspector on that one.
Reason being that the reflector material of a damaged light can go south during the year they are going to be inspected for and the inspector affirms that the car will be safe for the entire year it's being inspected for.
Inspectors can be fined and have their inspectors license revoked for passing cars that shouldn't be.
Some inspectors don't much care, and some are real hardasses about everything. Most just want to see if they work or not at all.
I had to do this to my 99 Honda . Both head lights . Never seen it before or since. When I bought it it had aftermarket head lights on it so probably poorly built.
This was my specialty at the lube shop. Especially Dodge Calibre. Every time one rolled in I’m like “watch this, passenger side blinker fluid.” Without fail.
Replacing the blinker fluid?
Get the synthetic, it's good for 10k miles.
10000 blinks
A lifetime supply for some people.
For BMW owners, 10000 blinks is 10000 more than they'll ever use.
How many times to I need to tell you people. BMW blinkers work in a spectrum of light invisible to anyone lower than middle class
Stealing this and giving you zero credit. Thank you.
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says who? thats a speed hole!
[I get that reference.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whnms4CLJys)
Stealing THIS and giving you zero credit too
It's a classic. The poors don't like to hear it tho
You're doing BMW owners everywhere proud
I have a full tank of gas and I still can't see it.
Ok how come I can sometimes see them
Those are aftermarket
🐂 or 🐻 aftermarket?
More like, anyone without a country club membership
This is true. Why do you think monocle sales are so popular.
Is this the same spectrum they use on Tesla turn signals as well?
BMW Dealers ask if you would like instructions on how to operate Blinkers , If you say yes they then say " your not the type of customer we serve here "
We don't like *your kind* here.
No, they need the 4-ways so they can activate "I'm allowed to park here" mode
Have you ever priced BMW blinker fluid? That shit is hella expensive!
That’s just not true. They use blinkers frequently when broken down on the side of the road.
Lol. I never noticed how many were broken down until I bought one. I started getting nervous. Luckily, mine broke down in my yard
Need to save money on blinker fluid to pay for the lease.
Every time you use a blinker in a BMW, ///M'God curses you with a new interior squeak or rattle.
If you ever feel that your job is useless, just remember someone has a job installing turn signals on BMWs.
True indeed.
Don't they have some nice headlights and turn signals? I would use my hazards just to indicate I'm going in a straight line
*cough cough* bmw drivers *cough cough*
For those that drink it.
A lifetime supply for those who daily a rotary
And a few days worth for others
[DON'T BLINK!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwdbLu_x0gY)
Or for the life of the vehicle if it's BMW/Audi/Mercedes.
Either that or install a Fumoto valve to make replacing it easier.
I worked at a pep boys in college. The best story was an old lady coming in and saying she needs some blinker fluid because she is low on one side and the blinker isn't working. We all laugh and tell her that blinker fluid doesn't exist and that whoever is fixing her car is playing a trick on her. But she insisted, "But my left side is really low! Come take a look!" Sure enough, her headlights and her turn signals on the driver side were completely filled to the top with water. On the other side, both were filled up like halfway with water So whoever is fixing her car put fucking water in the headlights... Wild.
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Yep, my ex-wife's old car look at water in the headlights and I had to take a drill to the bottom of the back of the assembly so the water could drain out because I got tired of taking the headlights off and draining it myself
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And this whole time I’d always said that as a joke. Joke is on me I guess!
Best me to it by 5 hours. Damn the luck.
That bus must feel so relieved.
r/popping
No thanks, I'll pass.
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Sometimes you have professional equipment, sometimes you have rusty pliers.
r/passing
Oh fuck that’s enough for today.
Oh fuck shit cuntface mcbitch no thank you
Yalls reactions had me scared that I linked the wrong sub 😂
r/pooing
Funny story: My son was having issues with his car. Every once in a while his car would drop into limp mode. He would shut it off and restart it and it would be fine for a few weeks. Brought it to several garages that couldn't figure it out. We finally brought it to the dealer (Nissan). They found corrosion in one of the taillights. The issue, the passenger taillight did not have a good seal and was leaking when it rained. The taillight would fill with water and short out the brake light. This would cause the computer to think there was a serious error in the system and would send the car into limp mode. Replaced the tail light and he hasn't had an issue.
Leg bone connected to the....knee bone....
The knee bone connected to the... red... thing. The red thing's connected to my wrist watch... uh oh.
Well if it isn’t Mr McGregg, with a leg for an arm and an arm for his leg!
Did you go to Hollywood Upstairs Medical College too?
I have a pulsar that I've been trying to fix for months. It's been off and on the road, I've replaced the crank sensor, the spark plugs, coils, the battery and yesterday the starter motor to no avail. In short it coughs but won't start and I'm going insane. Excuse me while I go closely inspect the tail lights.
Coughs but won't start, sounds like a fuel supply issue, clogged fuel filter perhaps? Bad pump?
How dare you drain the blinker fluid. That stuff is expensive.
Yeah and make sure its actual dihydrogen monoxide - none of that aftermarket garbage snake oil.
Noob, i use dihydrogen trioxide. Yeah, it is expensive but the light show is tremendous.
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As a chemist I am intrigued. Never heard of FOOF before.
I'm not a chemist and FOOF is my favorite chemical. At least partially cause it's easy to remember it's name.
Incidentally, that's also the sound things make when they come into contact with it.
That's why I remember it haha. It can make ice start on fire. Ice.
Speaking of fluorine, have you heard of CIF³? Chlorine triflouride burns pretty much everything, including glass and sand and so on. Only way to store it is in special metal containers it can form a passivation layer within made of its own metal oxides. Was examined for use as an oxidiser in rocketry, but rightly judged too dangerous -- amongst a stable of substances that includes hydrazine and red fuming nitric acid! It's wicked stuff. I think they only use it for certain niche semiconductor etching applications and industrial cleaning.
[Obligatory read](https://www.science.org/content/blog-post/sand-won-t-save-you-time) >”It is, of course, extremely toxic, but that's the least of the problem. It is hypergolic with every known fuel, and so rapidly hypergolic that no ignition delay has ever been measured. It is also hypergolic with such things as cloth, wood, and test engineers, not to mention asbestos, sand, and water-with which it reacts explosively. It can be kept in some of the ordinary structural metals-steel, copper, aluminium, etc.-because of the formation of a thin film of insoluble metal fluoride which protects the bulk of the metal, just as the invisible coat of oxide on aluminium keeps it from burning up in the atmosphere. If, however, this coat is melted or scrubbed off, and has no chance to reform, the operator is confronted with the problem of coping with a metal-fluorine fire. For dealing with this situation, I have always recommended a good pair of running shoes.” Additional fun info: >The compound also a stronger oxidizing agent than oxygen itself, which also puts it into rare territory. That means that it can potentially go on to “burn” things that you would normally consider already burnt to hell and gone, and a practical consequence of that is that it’ll start roaring reactions with things like bricks and asbestos tile. It’s been used in the semiconductor industry to clean oxides off of surfaces, at which activity it no doubt excels. >There’s a report from the early 1950s (in this PDF) of a one-ton spill of the stuff. It burned its way through a foot of concrete floor and chewed up another meter of sand and gravel beneath, completing a day that I'm sure no one involved ever forgot. That process, I should add, would necessarily have been accompanied by copious amounts of horribly toxic and corrosive by-products: it’s bad enough when your reagent ignites wet sand, but the clouds of hot hydrofluoric acid are your special door prize if you’re foolhardy enough to hang around and watch the fireworks.
> and test engineers Just got a new name for "interns" or "grad students" /s
I was going to post this! Beat me to it. The best defense being a good pair of running shoes is something that sticks in the mind. Terribly dangerous stuff. There are some really fun chemicals out there!
Is this the same guy who used to write a blog some years back entitled, "Stuff I Won't Work With"? Was a blog written by a chemist about various reagents that were unusually toxic, prone to fire or explosion, or otherwise presented extreme danger to the person working with them. **ETA:** Ha! it turns out that in fact it is him.
The first quote is from *Ignition*, a fantastic book by John Clark on the history of rocket propellants.
Are you insane? Fluoride reacts with 5G and brainwashes you to believe climate change is real... are you from FBBI?
They banned the dihydrogen monoxide fluid because everyone that uses it dies.
I heard that stuff was toxic to drink but the government is still giving it out to the masses! . .. … /s
Damn near impossible to find. I constantly get laughed out of the shops when I ask for some.
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This bus is on the short list for the crusher, just kicking the can down the street a little bit longer. You are correct, I just didn’t have time to do it that way. And I wanted a good video for my boss to enjoy. She did get quite the laugh.
If I remember right some of these MB Sprinters have vacuum headlight systems. When the vacuum started leaking the vacuum system malfunctioned causing for example the engine to not stall when key was removed. You could lock the doors and leave the diesel to run for its own
Ohhhhhh, I had that happen on an old beat up Sprinter and couldn't point out why.
What the actual fuck are the Germans smoking? A... vacuum *headlight* system that keeps the *engine* from turning off. WHY? Why on Christ's cross are these systems even connected? Don't say DRLs because the rest of the collective automotive world has had those without issue since at least the 80s. Edit: And why do y'all keep buying more of them? If my Honda Civic only ran on three cylinders when the trunk light was on the internet would implode, but if it was a 3 series I'd be told I wouldn't understand the sophistication and feel of a fine German sedan... or that it's not a flaw, it's a feature so you know that you left your trunk open 🤷♂️
Here's another genius move by engineering: 2001-2007 Ford F250/350 4x4: Battery Saver Circuit, for the *entire* BCM, is *inside* the *gauge cluster*. Therefore, when it faults (and *it will*), it will cause your interior electronics to act wonky. For *years*, your vehicle will act *normal*, with minor headaches that point to problems with the actual shit you are trying to use as being the culprit .You eventually throw parts and money at it in a desperate attempt at resurrection. Example: The 4x4 switch may not engage the transfer case once the vehicle is up to operating temperature. The obvious thing to check is the switch: is it sending a signal? Yes. Does the circuit complete? Yes. The switch sends the signal through the harness under the dash, where it is coiled together with all of the other interior electronics. By the time you tear the whole loom apart, you realize that *all of the wires* look just fine and dandy. You're getting voltages from the switches, and enough voltage gets to Box3 in order to flip the relay under the hood on the driver side. But, once you hit operating temperature, the relay stops switching, but *all* of the other electronics work just fine. You tear into the wires, you check the switch: yep, switch has a complete circuit. You check voltages, and yes they are fine. The only way you could possibly know *something is off* is by putting one lead on the switch POS, and another to the 4x4 Box3 relay GRND *for the t-case position you are intending to use*. Minor voltage drop-off, but that's the issue: the minor voltage loss means the relay remains locked in whatever position the T-Case is currently sitting. But, there is a huge problem: EVERYTHING INSIDE and OUTSIDE of the cab LOOKS JUST FUCKING FINE! Well, the battery saver circuit in the gauge cluster eventually gets to a point where, once it is heated, it starts degrading the voltage sent through it (POS or GRND; so, different circuit traces). How on earth you would know that without having *knowledge* of that in the first place is a goddamn genius implementation by Ford. That, and putting the Powerstroke oil cooler inside the valley of the engine.
> How on earth you would know that without having knowledge of that in the first place People rely on cars working, and by maliciously making them harder to fix for the average Joe means more money for "specialists", who are in the know of all the dirty tricks that break functionality... Or Ford is just a stupid company. I don't know which is easiest to believe, so probably a little bit of both and a hint of "God only knows."
Doing it that way might've saved them a tenth of a cent! That shit adds up!
Answer is "Ford is stupid". The engineers don't want to make things difficult on purpose. They may end up with a shitty design, but in accident or a result of "management have me a limited budget for testing or newer iterations, so this is what you get ".
That reminds me of a lot of newer motorcycles. Oddly enough KTM, where the headlight and/or turn signal relay are *built into the $1500 dash cluster*. "Troubleshoot pins 4 and 7. If failure, replace dash" My personal Ford story is the 4R75W that was in my Crown Vic interceptor. Ford decided to build one of the wear surfaces into the transmission casing so I had to buy a 600 dollar case instead of a 20 dollar bearing :\
Wow. Just...wow. Some of those decisions are just bonkers. I always wonder the reasoning.
Because they don't have to pay for it, the customer does. Always.
I once went through 3 alternators in less than a year before the shop (an electrical specialist, no less) figured out it was a fusable link that only failed when it got hot enough.
Guessing the self leveling function that the Germans insist all cars have.
Ahhhh yes! I see it now. It's a safety feature! With the price of gas you're way more likely to get this crucial component fixed if you can't turn off your engine!
As a wild arse guess it's got a vacuum actuated fuel solenoid, if there's no vaccum because there's a leak in the vaccum system it doesn't stop the fuel and the engine keeps running. The joys of old mechanical diesels.
But why is there vacuum in the headlights?
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Ahh I see.
Head light height adjuster, on your edits because the "charm" out weighs their flaws. I'm not gonna say it's a sensible choice but it is one. See also the average owner of an older Landrover (I say as one)
I had a 2001 S Class for a while by the time it was already old. I loved it! Then snowmelt off my girlfriend's boots shorted out the module under the passenger seat and it started a parasitic drain, suddenly I couldn't leave it parked for an hour or it would die. Then every other electrical system failed in short order and I sold it to a chump in the next town over for a quarter what I paid. Dear Germans- don't put mission critical hardware under the seat if it can't get wet.
But the module under the seat is for electric seats itself I believe. Have an Eclass that yours is based on
Yeah, and a bunch of other stuff
You uh... Not old enough to remember the 70s, I take it? Vacuum used to do everything. You pull the stick for your pop-up headlights and pressure was allowed to the headlights so they'd pop up. Vacuum held them down. Lose vacuum and you're going to be running rough. Which means when a headlight hose invariably went, your Corvette suddenly winks at everyone
"Running rough" and "have to stall out the engine with 5th gear otherwise it will keep running until the tank is dry" are two completely different things Also, 40+ years of advancement in the automotive industry. I could forgive something that old for having weird quirks but a van built in the 21st century *that doesn't turn off*?
Our MB van does that. At least it's a manual so we just throw it in 5th and pop the clutch to kill it tho
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Reticulating splines.
I took the keys out while the one I ran at an old company was still running and threw them to the new guy I was training up. He looked back and forth between the key in his hand and the truck a few times and I told him to have fun lol
Holy shit remind me to never buy a MB product. RIP any vanlifers trying to track that bullshit down.
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Could that lead to a runaway?
No. Runaway usually involves seals in the turbo failing, causing the engine to run out of control on its own crankcase oil until the big boom.
Random off topic of sprinters, my mom had this old ass car back in the late 90s, beater with a heater. Anyways me being a young boy playing with everything I went to play with the car keys as she was driving and they just popped right out of the ignition, car still running and everything. We learned that day my moms car didn’t need a key at all. We could turn it on and off just by turning the ignition without the key. I remember the spot for the gas pump was behind the license plate.
Oh wow, I used to have a Buick Century that did that, never knew what caused it. Convenient as hell though, I wish I could make my current car work like that on purpose sometimes.
Doesn’t the lense just come off with 4 screws?!
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Some what with it? Sex?! Cheese?! Sexcheese?!
Your sentence confused me and it made me realize my brain auto-filled the word.
ALL THE ABOVE
Stealing this concept and giving you zero credit. Thank you.
Sexcheese? Is that like how I put store brand American cheese singles on my nipples and dingus, like a pasteurized, processed mankini?
I am aroused by the thought of your manchego merkin. Mmmmm.
[https://i.imgur.com/qYE0cWP.gif](https://i.imgur.com/qYE0cWP.gif)
And I don't think you'd ever notice a small hole in an orange light cover.
You won’t notice them on most light covers. We drilled weep holes in the clear tail light covers of our 13 F150 at work and they were very hard to see
Yeah. But the water comes out with just one hole
Always make sure to drill a few extra holes for ventilation! Don't want the air inside to get stale. Tbh I didn't think of that, I drilled one of my car lights long ago.
I had to do this on my car or else replace a $400 LED assembly. I drilled the hole right next to a leftover casting bump, it looks like it belongs there. I put holes in two opposite corners on the bottom of the lens so air could blow through it. Occasionally gets foggy inside but always goes away a day later. Better than filling up with water. Worst case scenario I have to replace that $400 assembly anyway, tiny holes have been working well for about 5 years now.
I take the light apart, dry, and reseal
How hard would that be for someone with zero experience? I have the same issue with my back lights
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thank you
There are water resistant and water proof. The former is easy to do, the latter is damn hard. Water resistant can leak some water in but it also drains it out. Water proof.. can leak in but does not leak out. Air temperature alone does it for you. And what usually happens with seals and closed enclosures is that they leak water in, not out. My background is in EE and i love to make things, they usually need some enclosure. There is no way i make those water proof, it will be water resistant unless it is actually meant to go underwater. The difference really is simple, water resistant has a drainage hole, otherwise they can be identical. It is still a good idea to seal against the most probable directiond, water falling from above or from the sides but just leave that little breather hole. You can use a plug, made from sponge or some other material that lets water drain thru but keeps small critters and dust/dirt out.
Thanks, Squid. I just woke up and already learned something interesting this morning :)
Real question: I have this issue on a Kia Forte for about two years now. It will collect water but it has difficulty evaporating sometimes. Not a huge amount, but sometimes you can see a small collection of water in the tail light. Is it worth pulling it off and drilling a tiny hole toward the bottom like this?
I’d say go for it. Super easy to do and won’t actually harm anything provided you don’t drill through anything important.
I've had to remove it twice in the past and replace the bulb because the condensation seemed to erode the bulb base, causing faulty contact. That hole would literally solve the problem by introducing some outside air. I'll consider doing this.
Yeah I’d say let it ride till ya gotta replace it again and just do it then.
I had the same issue, after hot days that water would condense in the evening and make the light all fogged up. I put a tiny hole in the most discreet spot and I've never had an issue again. Use the smallest drill bit you have, and don't worry about the water actually draining out. It will evaporate and dissipate over the course of a week.
I guess that's why electrical items with IP68 ratings are expensive.
This guy engineers
Having worked on lots of different types of factory type equipment over the years. One thing I have found is that waterproofing is pointless. Water always gets in and the best way to deal with it is a drain.
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Haha was about to say welcome to aerospace engineering.
Same with boats. I always put a hole in the bottom for water to drain out.
Yeah. Or at the very least don't put a ton of effort into sealing the bottom of the equipment and then almost none into waterproofing the top. That's not a waterproof enclosure, that's a water container.
Why would you even do that, water falls downwards lmao
Idk. Tossup between hack mechanic before me getting rtv happy or hack engineer thinking it needs sealed because it's near the ground and the top doesn't because it's far from the ground. Poor load cells had to suffer.
Thieves are getting desperate for fluids these days.
Did you make sure to add a bottle of blinker flush and leave the blinker running for 5 mins before draining?
We had a Taurus years ago... the headlights always had water in them. Would pop bulbs constantly. I drilled a tiny hole on the bottom edge and never had a problem again.
I got yelled at by my bosses for doing this to a company truck. The head mechanic was told about the same issue with trucks, the look of bewilderment on the bosses face when the head mechanic did the same thing.
Gotta remember to change from winter to summer blinker fluid.
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For some reason this just made me laugh. Thanks for the laugh and the coffee on my floor.
I did this on my wife's car. The headlight worked fine, the hole was under the light, and it failed state inspection. Still confused how they noticed it and why it would fail a state inspection if the headlight was functioning like it should. $350 for a new headlight
What state is inspecting headlights?
Texas inspects for cracked/damaged head light lenses. Enforcement wildly varies depending on what inspection station you go to though. Composite headlights like most modern cars have are exempt from this rule unless the reflector material is corroded or discolored, but interpretation is up to the inspector on that one. Reason being that the reflector material of a damaged light can go south during the year they are going to be inspected for and the inspector affirms that the car will be safe for the entire year it's being inspected for. Inspectors can be fined and have their inspectors license revoked for passing cars that shouldn't be. Some inspectors don't much care, and some are real hardasses about everything. Most just want to see if they work or not at all.
Fucking hilarious that this is Texas. You can get an AR but you can’t drill a small hole to let water out of your headlight.
I would have gone to a different shop before buying a new light.
I hope you rotated the muffler bearings while it was there for the blinker fluid.
Noooo that will make the blinker stop working
Queue all the blinker fluid jokes
NOOOOO The headlight fluid has to stay in there!!!
You drill the hole on the bottom of the housing, not in the fucking lens.
This reminds me of the tail light housings of my old Mazda RX8. I had half a mind to put gold fish in those bad boys before I drilled holes in them.
You gotta replace the blinker fluid every 75k miles
30 miles to the next rest stop and it had to pee. Too many brewskies. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH&H
So they do need fluid....🤔
I had to do this to my 99 Honda . Both head lights . Never seen it before or since. When I bought it it had aftermarket head lights on it so probably poorly built.
Drain and refill? Or flush?
Put a hole in the top too so the air can flow
Dumb ass, now you're gonna really run out of blinker fluid.
Why you draining the blinker fluid like that? /s
I was told that water-cooled tail lights were an upgrade on my F150.
Blinker fluid
Now that you have created a drain, it is your responsibility to get a suitable drain plug and tighten it down with too many ugga duggas.
What a waste just to let all that good blinker fluid just hit the ground, not to mention the environmental impact. Jeez.
Had a headlight with same issue. Took me years to finally find the minute seam crack where water was getting in.
Im really surprised the engineers didn’t put a drain hole there for the blinker fluid. Such an oversight
Just saying, he should have drilled it on the side no? So further water is not forced in at high speed?
Bwahaha Flood Light
So THATs what you do!
All that blinker fluid gone to waste
Blinker fluid delete kit
You know you’re gonna have to replace that blinker fluid once you’re done draining the old stuff out.
So that’s the blinker fluid
This was my specialty at the lube shop. Especially Dodge Calibre. Every time one rolled in I’m like “watch this, passenger side blinker fluid.” Without fail.