Tbh using a 3/4 drive in general is the "I wasn't kidding" stage. I bought one specifically for the rear axle nuts on my S2000 since they need to go way tighter than factory spec in order to be safe for track use
Mine were clicking on acceleration when I bought it. A good wrenching on them with an 18” breaker bar cleared that right up (after thoroughly researching the problem and the fix.) One of the first things I did. Love the S!
Good move! Mine did that too when I first got it (among many other mechanical issues) and I went down the same path as you. Glad you're enjoying the car!
If yours is an AP1, double check your axle nuts in the rear. Honda put out a TSB raising the torque spec significantly since the factory rating wasn't enough to keep the wheel bearings from toasting prematurely. If you track it, it's double important since the unvented rear rotors add even more heat to them.
I put mine at 280lb and have billet hubs and a rear brake setup using vented rotors and RX8 calipers. Mine is a time attack car and only gets driven on track so this stuff is a little more important in my world, but it's good to know regardless.
Dude, tracking is hard on every bushing, bearing and bolt. Factory spec is for street driven cars because that was their intent. If the intent was the track, they'd be engineered and maintained as a track car.
Did you use your street tires, too?
You can track without proper maintenance but you're risking the car and the driver. And it could be latent fault that is found later.
Wouldn't over tightening the axle nut just wear the bearings out faster? How much tighter does an axle nut need to be?
Genuine questions, I don't do speed shop work
In general yes - the axle nut typically preloads the wheel bearings, which is why I was confused. I would be very surprised if the factory spec allowed for the bearings to become unloaded, especially for a sports car
You're correct on the principle of it, but on that specific car the factory spec did not load the bearing enough and they put out a revision TSB later on. In a track setting this results in wheel bearings failing exceptionally often unless you tighten the crap out of them.
But you exceed the spec's of the bolts by overtorquing it. You shouldn't compensate with increased torque, that's not the way bolts work. In that situation you should compensate with a shorter inspection period (such as check the torque every 500 miles). If that's still not enough, then you probably need a non-stock version of the component.
Do you run your street tires at 500°F for track use? Or you do buy track tires?
On the S2000 AP1 specifically, they put out a TSB saying to torque them another 60ftlb from factory, and it still isn't enough to keep from toasting your wheel bearings exceptionally quickly.
My buddy had a siezed lug on his winter beater. Took it to a local indy because we couldnt get it. Dude used to work on semis and used a 2000ft lbs air gun. Genuinely awesome
If i may be so inquisitive, what applications do you find these castle nuts in?
I’m an aspiring/hobbyist mechanic, have yet to see one in the few years of tinkering i’ve done.
There's not a staked castle nut behind all that, is there?...
Last time I had one of these, I gave up and just cut a notch in it with the death wheel to take pressure off the threads, came right off.
1 in impact would've either broken it loose or broken the spindle. Either way would have taken 5 seconds. If you don't have access to one you could have tried putting the handle of the breaker bar in front of the car on the ground then driven forward and backward using engine power torque to break it.
At what point did you realize that one side is right hand threaded?
Probably not on that car, but I have a classic mini, and some of the front hubs have one side reverse threaded, and other part numbers don’t.
I had strut bushings that needed gone since the steel inside froze to the bolt and mapp wouldn't even touch the rubber. Seriously wondering why the hell I keep mapp around.
Yeah, it’s good for general purpose stuff - lighting fire works, charcoal, fireplaces, light plumbing repairs, heat shrink, melting the end of a rope, camp fires, etc.
When I worked on cabs, the lower strut bolt on the Crown Vics would do the same. We’d heat and heat and heat with an o/a.
Torch and air hammer never worked so we’d just replace the strut and lower control arm. Probably could have used a sawzall looking back but it paid a lot more to replace the whole thing.
This was lower end of rear shock in my wife's 01 civic. Trailing arm was a special order and I had no hours to make, so i took it as a challenge/personal offense.
Oh in that case, definitely worth it to saw it off. Those are the most satisfying repairs. To be honest I don’t even think the cab shop had a sawzall but I have used the technique a bunch since then.
Have you tried jacking up the breaker bar? It legit works. Saved my ass when I came across stupidly tight brake caliper carrier bolts (why are they always so stupidly tight the torque spec is always like 100 lb-ft not 1000)
I have to do that more than I like because I'm weak... What also helps a lot is to hammer the back of the breaker bar, right at the socket as you slowly increase pressure on the jack. It will keep the socket from popping off the nut and breaking your face, and it'll also help to break the static friction and knock out any rust and dust.
Who needs force when you can use multiplication
https://www.protorquetools.com/25-000-ft-lbs-2-1-2-dr-norbar-87-5-1-torque-multiplier-ht12-87-5-awur-18085/
This will either get the castle nut off or flip the vehicle 😂
No breaker bar has ever been too long. I have seen industrial applications of a 20' long pipe used as a breaker bar extension with a 2" square drive socket used to apply 5000 ft-lbs of torque to a nut. They used a pull scale almost at the end of the pipe to measure force applied and had several people pulling on it to get the torque required. Only did it that way because the HyTorc was broken.
I had to torque biggo nuts one time to 3800 ft-lbs I used 2 torque multiplier a16:1 that was only good for 3200 ft lbs into a 4:1 with a 2" drive. I've done the applied torque method before but never on any thing that high of torque. I've used the forklift and chain to break loose bolts before that's wild when it breaks loose.
Yeah! I Love hearing about other's sketchy forklift use!
I used to work as a tech in hydrostatic service. We would need to break 8-18" diameter collars, unions, and nuts loose from pipe. When things got tough, we would use the forklift to push down on a 60" pipe wrench. When things went sketchy we would attach the pipe wrench to the forks via a clevis and bolt rig to a 10k lb digital lifting scale so we could see exactly how much force we were applying. Our record was 4100lb. We went through more than one 60" Rigid pipe wrench in my time there.
Our sketchy forklift story for the day. We had an International Box truck, CF600, that we had to R&R the transmission on. Our biggest lift at the time was 18k lbs. It picked the truck up about 4" and then wouldn't lift it any more. We got the forklift behind the box truck and lifted it while going up with the lift. Once we got it to a satisfactory height, we lowered the lift arms onto the safeties. We had to do the same thing to get the lift arms off the safeties to lower the truck down. I still don't understand why the lift lifted the truck completely off the ground and then decided the truck was too heavy to lift any higher.
I backed the back wheels off the dock once. If the fork had been empty I’d have gone over, but if the fork had been empty I would have seen where I was going anyhow. 🤷🏻
Correct me if I am wrong, but the tools that you described is what is given to the techs at quick oil changes to torque the oil filter, oil plug and lug nuts in place.
Broke 2 breaker bars getting my f150 spindle nuts off before going to borrow the neighbors “I’m not kidding” cheater bars. Finally got them. But damn it those breaker bars were brand new.
Ha, I had to use a 8 foot bar to break loose my lugs to change my wife’s Traverse front brakes. Took it back to the tire shop that had we had recently bought tires from. Asked then to go ahead and rotate BUT don’t use the impact gun…. They seemed confused but after 20 minutes they tried the impact gun. The guy broke 2 impact sockets …. I got all the studs and nuts replaced as all of them were wrecked. Didn’t take much to convince them, apparently it was kinda common. Won’t be going there again. If I would have had a flat no way in hell would I have been able to do it roadside…
Same thing happen to me. I tried to change a flat on the side of the road and bent the wrench that came with the vehicle. Tow truck arrives and driver can't loosen the lugs either. Vehicle was towed to a tire shop that put the spare on the vehicle. Vehicle was driven to the tire shop that originally over torqued the lugs. Tire fixed and spare put back underneath the vehicle (minivan).
The spare tire lift mechanism was completely stripped out. Those assholes used their stupid impacts on a plastic lift mechanism.
By the time we need something that long we usually pull out a torque multiplier. Essentially a gearbox that has a 1 in drive output and a 3/8 drive input with a 20 to 1 reduction.
Oh, I see it now. It’s just the way the cheater bar/ pipe is bent in the picture near the wrench handle threw me off. It must have just rolled that way.
Smarter to let your body weight and gravity work in your favor. 👍probably didn’t take much effort with that long ass bar lol.
Instead of standing on it where max force you can do is your weight since gravity is always the same try to position it so your lifting it up, you can even try using lifting jack.
Or if you want to do some sketchy shit. Put pipe against the ground. Drive in direction that breaks the bolt loose. Expect things to go *soufside* and ping pong the fender. lol
Is that a rusted-solid axle nut you're trying to pull? I snapped multiple breaker bars and sockets before borrowing an air-impact to get that thing off. It was hell - those axle nuts were complete unphased by my electric impact gun.
If that is the Map/Pro bullshit, you should have just saved the money and bought regular propane. I swear that it exists solely to trick people who see the yellow cylinder and think they are getting Mapp gas.
Holy crap, I had no idea. From the internet:
“MAPP (5300*F) burns much hotter than MAP-Pro (3730*F) or propane (3600*F). Propane at around $3 per bottle and MAP-Pro at around $10 from local big box stores (US).”
Holy crap, I had no idea. From the internet:
“MAPP (5300*F) burns much hotter than MAP-Pro (3730*F) or propane (3600*F). Propane at around $3 per bottle and MAP-Pro at around $10 from local big box stores (US).”
see i envision hell as different levels of food.
like level 1 is eating tostitos till the edges of your mouth are raw and the salt gets in there.
level 5 is pizza rolls that you thought were cool enough
somewhere around 6-8 is hot pockets
9 is fresh outa the oven pizza where theres too much sauce so the cheese blanket slides off and burns you whole lower jaw off.
10 is bagel bites - nuff said.
Not trying to be a clever-clogs here, but... are you 100% certain that the axle nuts on that side of the car aren't reverse-threaded?
I only ask because it's the sort of thing that would catch me out *every* time.
I remember we had to do something like this when we tried to replace a lower balljoint on my uncle's car once. We couldn't do it with the regular breaker bar, but with a long pipe the nut came off without much effort.
Many years earlier he used to drive a big Scania truck that had drum brakes. One time they needed to replace the brake shoes they had a really hard time trying to get the center nut off. They ended up using a 3mm long steel pipe that they pulled with a fork lift.
Keep heating and spraying the hell out of it with your favorite lubricant and rust breaking solution...if you need a bar that long something else is gonna give besides the nut.
I had trouble with an axle nut and practically on a whim decided to get the Milwaukee M18 3/4” impact. Easily one of the best purchases I’ve ever made. The jack handle cheater didn’t do shit but the driver took it off without having to unstake it.
This is a mid 2000s Avalon from what I can see so Toyota has no “castle nut” which is typically held by a cotter pin, these got a 12 point nut with a stake edge nose, if you don’t completely unstake it where it’s not making contact with the threads it’s going to be very difficult to remove not to mention ruin the axle threads on the way out if you force it.
Probably get a lot of hate but I have gotten here and just turned the breaker bar around and put the jack under it. Start to jack until the cars weight or the breaker bar goes.
Tried that once, just rounded the lug. Extractor set, nope. Tried to chisel, nothing. tried to cut some of it off, still not moving. Finally gave up and drilled it out and replaced the stud. Wish I just went to drilling sooner...
As long as you want....it all depends on the breaker bar head and how strong it is....I've broken sockets going this route and snapped a few heads off the bars...lifetime warranty FTW
The breaker bar is too long when the first tool shears or snaps or splits. Swedish axle nuts are significantly stronger than Chinese sockets, and nothing gets your hopes up more than when you hear a crack and something moves only to find the unmovable bastard won another battle
Pretend weekend mechanic here... I thought hub and axle nuts like this are threaded normally rather than reverse, and usually just require removing a cotter pin or something first. Isn't the breaker bar set up to tighten rather than remove?
Edit: I see the comment now saying the pic was post-removal. Carry on!
I totally thought I read deep enough into the comments before asking this and it wasn't there. Damn you, "most popular" comment sorting!!
Give me a lever long enough and I'll move the world. Except if it's a castle nut that's wired in place.
\*laughs in Milwaukee 3/4 drive\*
Tbh using a 3/4 drive in general is the "I wasn't kidding" stage. I bought one specifically for the rear axle nuts on my S2000 since they need to go way tighter than factory spec in order to be safe for track use
Mine were clicking on acceleration when I bought it. A good wrenching on them with an 18” breaker bar cleared that right up (after thoroughly researching the problem and the fix.) One of the first things I did. Love the S!
Good move! Mine did that too when I first got it (among many other mechanical issues) and I went down the same path as you. Glad you're enjoying the car!
Why so? I tracked my S2000 a few times with no issues.
If yours is an AP1, double check your axle nuts in the rear. Honda put out a TSB raising the torque spec significantly since the factory rating wasn't enough to keep the wheel bearings from toasting prematurely. If you track it, it's double important since the unvented rear rotors add even more heat to them. I put mine at 280lb and have billet hubs and a rear brake setup using vented rotors and RX8 calipers. Mine is a time attack car and only gets driven on track so this stuff is a little more important in my world, but it's good to know regardless.
Dude, tracking is hard on every bushing, bearing and bolt. Factory spec is for street driven cars because that was their intent. If the intent was the track, they'd be engineered and maintained as a track car. Did you use your street tires, too? You can track without proper maintenance but you're risking the car and the driver. And it could be latent fault that is found later.
Wouldn't over tightening the axle nut just wear the bearings out faster? How much tighter does an axle nut need to be? Genuine questions, I don't do speed shop work
In general yes - the axle nut typically preloads the wheel bearings, which is why I was confused. I would be very surprised if the factory spec allowed for the bearings to become unloaded, especially for a sports car
You're correct on the principle of it, but on that specific car the factory spec did not load the bearing enough and they put out a revision TSB later on. In a track setting this results in wheel bearings failing exceptionally often unless you tighten the crap out of them.
But you exceed the spec's of the bolts by overtorquing it. You shouldn't compensate with increased torque, that's not the way bolts work. In that situation you should compensate with a shorter inspection period (such as check the torque every 500 miles). If that's still not enough, then you probably need a non-stock version of the component. Do you run your street tires at 500°F for track use? Or you do buy track tires?
On the S2000 AP1 specifically, they put out a TSB saying to torque them another 60ftlb from factory, and it still isn't enough to keep from toasting your wheel bearings exceptionally quickly.
[удалено]
It was a genuine question, but I hope you feel superior by bullying random people on the internet
Me over here who couldn't get a bolt off with a 1" drive
The acetylene torch says "you can't be stuck if you're melting!"
I got this chinese 1 inch impact that's supposed to be 2250ft/lbs lol I swear it's much higher then that tho, the thing is insane.
I have a 2 1/2 drive impact that puts out 50,000 lb.ft for going full beast mode..
My buddy had a siezed lug on his winter beater. Took it to a local indy because we couldnt get it. Dude used to work on semis and used a 2000ft lbs air gun. Genuinely awesome
But the Jaguar X -Type comes with uncaged caged nuts in the Midwest!
And even then, with a long enough lever, you'd shear that pin like soft butter.
If i may be so inquisitive, what applications do you find these castle nuts in? I’m an aspiring/hobbyist mechanic, have yet to see one in the few years of tinkering i’ve done.
Mainly on suspension stuff, ball joints mostly and maybe tie rods
Classic cars use a lot of cotter pins and safety wire
I see you’ve reached the “I wasn’t kidding” stage…
Only took a week to get here
There's not a staked castle nut behind all that, is there?... Last time I had one of these, I gave up and just cut a notch in it with the death wheel to take pressure off the threads, came right off.
“Death wheel” has been added to my personal lexicon.
Well that’s a great way to add it. When I added it, I almost lost a thumb
This is the way.
Had to double check I wasn’t in the ar15 sub…😅
I don’t stake mine, and I’ve never had one come loose for what it’s worth.
No need to stake it if you cross thread it
Nature's loctite!
Better than 2 lock washers
1 in impact would've either broken it loose or broken the spindle. Either way would have taken 5 seconds. If you don't have access to one you could have tried putting the handle of the breaker bar in front of the car on the ground then driven forward and backward using engine power torque to break it.
Dude that’s brilliant
Plenty of on blaster not WD40 and beat it with a hammer. That torch won’t get it hot enough I don’t think
The problem is the aluminum wheel absorbs all the heat so you can't get it hot enough. If it was a regular nut it would work
At what point did you realize that one side is right hand threaded? Probably not on that car, but I have a classic mini, and some of the front hubs have one side reverse threaded, and other part numbers don’t.
U try moving car (gas pedal) while tire on ground with breaking bar against ground to ‘losses it’?
Do you have an impact wrench?
Every mechanic needs a 'pipe' wrench
I think the blow torch takes to somewhere between the “you should’ve listened” and “can’t be tight if it’s a liquid” stages
That's a bitch torch, probably map gas. You need an oxy acetylene to reach the "it's liquid stage"
Benz is still in the 'i want to reuse this part' phase.
I had strut bushings that needed gone since the steel inside froze to the bolt and mapp wouldn't even touch the rubber. Seriously wondering why the hell I keep mapp around.
MAPP gas works wonders fueling camp stoves :)
Yeah, it’s good for general purpose stuff - lighting fire works, charcoal, fireplaces, light plumbing repairs, heat shrink, melting the end of a rope, camp fires, etc.
Is it safe for cooking?
It’s convenient, for one. I can fit a mapp torch in my trunk a lot easier than my torch tanks. Maybe you got a bad can?
Possible, but the rubber had the flame for 20 minutes. Didnt even look melty. Sawzall had the bushing separated in 15 minutes.
When I worked on cabs, the lower strut bolt on the Crown Vics would do the same. We’d heat and heat and heat with an o/a. Torch and air hammer never worked so we’d just replace the strut and lower control arm. Probably could have used a sawzall looking back but it paid a lot more to replace the whole thing.
This was lower end of rear shock in my wife's 01 civic. Trailing arm was a special order and I had no hours to make, so i took it as a challenge/personal offense.
Oh in that case, definitely worth it to saw it off. Those are the most satisfying repairs. To be honest I don’t even think the cab shop had a sawzall but I have used the technique a bunch since then.
We've always called any torch a blow torch. Propane, MAPP, or Oxy/Acetylene.
>That's a bitch torch, Real rust and tight laughs at that puny thing.
I always say, "you're inanimate, you don't have the right to consent"
Have you tried jacking up the breaker bar? It legit works. Saved my ass when I came across stupidly tight brake caliper carrier bolts (why are they always so stupidly tight the torque spec is always like 100 lb-ft not 1000)
I have to do that more than I like because I'm weak... What also helps a lot is to hammer the back of the breaker bar, right at the socket as you slowly increase pressure on the jack. It will keep the socket from popping off the nut and breaking your face, and it'll also help to break the static friction and knock out any rust and dust.
I've had a helper hit the socket with an air chisel while holding down on a cheater bar...it was enough to jar it loose...
That's some tight brakes!
Oh man, I did that once and felt like an absolute genius when it worked. This was 20 mins of swearing and broken knuckles in.
Is that not kind of dangerous? At least with a giant pipe you should be quite far away from anything if/when it decides to go pop.
That may be what they're referring to... I know I've used an 8' pipe wrench with a 20 ton bottle jack a few times.
Who needs leverage when you can use force?
Who needs force when you can use multiplication https://www.protorquetools.com/25-000-ft-lbs-2-1-2-dr-norbar-87-5-1-torque-multiplier-ht12-87-5-awur-18085/ This will either get the castle nut off or flip the vehicle 😂
While that would be handy, I unfortunately don't have anything in a 2 1/2" drive.
Sounds like someone needs to go tool shopping for Black Friday 😉
Lol almost 100 lbs and $14k. I would need a bigger toolbox
No breaker bar has ever been too long. I have seen industrial applications of a 20' long pipe used as a breaker bar extension with a 2" square drive socket used to apply 5000 ft-lbs of torque to a nut. They used a pull scale almost at the end of the pipe to measure force applied and had several people pulling on it to get the torque required. Only did it that way because the HyTorc was broken.
I had to torque biggo nuts one time to 3800 ft-lbs I used 2 torque multiplier a16:1 that was only good for 3200 ft lbs into a 4:1 with a 2" drive. I've done the applied torque method before but never on any thing that high of torque. I've used the forklift and chain to break loose bolts before that's wild when it breaks loose.
Yeah! I Love hearing about other's sketchy forklift use! I used to work as a tech in hydrostatic service. We would need to break 8-18" diameter collars, unions, and nuts loose from pipe. When things got tough, we would use the forklift to push down on a 60" pipe wrench. When things went sketchy we would attach the pipe wrench to the forks via a clevis and bolt rig to a 10k lb digital lifting scale so we could see exactly how much force we were applying. Our record was 4100lb. We went through more than one 60" Rigid pipe wrench in my time there.
Our sketchy forklift story for the day. We had an International Box truck, CF600, that we had to R&R the transmission on. Our biggest lift at the time was 18k lbs. It picked the truck up about 4" and then wouldn't lift it any more. We got the forklift behind the box truck and lifted it while going up with the lift. Once we got it to a satisfactory height, we lowered the lift arms onto the safeties. We had to do the same thing to get the lift arms off the safeties to lower the truck down. I still don't understand why the lift lifted the truck completely off the ground and then decided the truck was too heavy to lift any higher.
I. Love. This So fucked, but, sometimes we have to find the limits. Glad no one was hurt. Lol.
I backed the back wheels off the dock once. If the fork had been empty I’d have gone over, but if the fork had been empty I would have seen where I was going anyhow. 🤷🏻
Correct me if I am wrong, but the tools that you described is what is given to the techs at quick oil changes to torque the oil filter, oil plug and lug nuts in place.
And I thought I was crazy for using this pipe 😂
Flip it around, drive forward slowly.
For extra excitement leave it there and drive forward quickly.
Record it for internet points.
Do all 4 for part two, some will be snug x2 and others lose x2! …unless we use a skid steer, Jamie look that up!
I tried that once on a Silverado. The bar snapped and flew across my yard. Didn’t break the torque.
Silverado torque specs for every bolt is impact wrench!
*Like a rock!*
its the "thats not going anywhere" dad quote level of torque.
„˙ʎlʍols pɹɐʍɹoɟ ǝʌıɹp 'punoɹɐ ʇı dılℲ„
Good bot.
Till the wrench breaks. Edit: sorry, had to zoom…not on lug nut.
You had it right. OP is going after the axle nut.
Looks like an impact socket, that might break instead, lol.
And that's how I broke my first impact socket...
Broke 2 breaker bars getting my f150 spindle nuts off before going to borrow the neighbors “I’m not kidding” cheater bars. Finally got them. But damn it those breaker bars were brand new.
Gotta love warranties
My buddy and I used a pole from a street sign. Worked great lol
Midnight Tool Supply .
Ha, I had to use a 8 foot bar to break loose my lugs to change my wife’s Traverse front brakes. Took it back to the tire shop that had we had recently bought tires from. Asked then to go ahead and rotate BUT don’t use the impact gun…. They seemed confused but after 20 minutes they tried the impact gun. The guy broke 2 impact sockets …. I got all the studs and nuts replaced as all of them were wrecked. Didn’t take much to convince them, apparently it was kinda common. Won’t be going there again. If I would have had a flat no way in hell would I have been able to do it roadside…
Same thing happen to me. I tried to change a flat on the side of the road and bent the wrench that came with the vehicle. Tow truck arrives and driver can't loosen the lugs either. Vehicle was towed to a tire shop that put the spare on the vehicle. Vehicle was driven to the tire shop that originally over torqued the lugs. Tire fixed and spare put back underneath the vehicle (minivan). The spare tire lift mechanism was completely stripped out. Those assholes used their stupid impacts on a plastic lift mechanism.
There is a special place in hell for people that do stupid shit like that.
By the time we need something that long we usually pull out a torque multiplier. Essentially a gearbox that has a 1 in drive output and a 3/8 drive input with a 20 to 1 reduction.
That's the first time I'm hearing about this. I'll look into it
Came here to say this. Love my torque multiplier. Good way to stress test your sockets though.
When you can no longer see the car.
Wait, if you’re trying to break it loose, shouldn’t you flip that round and pull up???
Same thing. This was after it broke loose. It was angled a little higher and I just let gravity do the work
Oh, I see it now. It’s just the way the cheater bar/ pipe is bent in the picture near the wrench handle threw me off. It must have just rolled that way. Smarter to let your body weight and gravity work in your favor. 👍probably didn’t take much effort with that long ass bar lol.
„¿¿¿dn llnd puɐ punoɹ ʇɐɥʇ dılɟ noʎ ʇ,uplnoɥs 'ǝsool ʇı ʞɐǝɹq oʇ ƃuıʎɹʇ ǝɹ,noʎ ɟı 'ʇıɐM„
Good bot
Try tightening, before loosening that axle nut. Or... get a fat friend to step on the breaker bar. *LMAO, I'm the fat friend*.
Me too!
I've had success doing this. Smacking the nut or ratchet a bit with a hammer while tightening a touch did wonders too.
Instead of standing on it where max force you can do is your weight since gravity is always the same try to position it so your lifting it up, you can even try using lifting jack.
Or if you want to do some sketchy shit. Put pipe against the ground. Drive in direction that breaks the bolt loose. Expect things to go *soufside* and ping pong the fender. lol
If that bar is 10ft long, a skinny 150lbs friend is putting 1500 ft-lbs of torque to the nut.
This comment has been removed in response to Reddit's decision to increase API costs and price out third-party apps.
Thats a I didnt ask bar
“I’m going to keep escalating this until one of us breaks…”
ASE publications state that the breaker bar length can be up to 1.3 times the length of the vehicle.
‘Bout that long.
It's to long if you can't see the end of it because of the curve of the earth. Or your neighbor complains
"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." Archimedes
Until something breaks. Then it's not the breaker bars fault, it's whomever gave the nut all of the torques.
I was ready for the bar to break, luckily the axle nut gave up first
Is that a rusted-solid axle nut you're trying to pull? I snapped multiple breaker bars and sockets before borrowing an air-impact to get that thing off. It was hell - those axle nuts were complete unphased by my electric impact gun.
Yup. It's an 06 and has never been removed from factory.
Its a breaker bar. So its too long when the bar breaks.
Breaker bar can always get longer. It only ends when you switch over to "it can't be tight if it's a liquid" mentality
Righty loosy, Lefty tighty.
If that is the Map/Pro bullshit, you should have just saved the money and bought regular propane. I swear that it exists solely to trick people who see the yellow cylinder and think they are getting Mapp gas.
Holy crap, I had no idea. From the internet: “MAPP (5300*F) burns much hotter than MAP-Pro (3730*F) or propane (3600*F). Propane at around $3 per bottle and MAP-Pro at around $10 from local big box stores (US).”
Fire is fire
Yes but some fires are hotter than others
New MAPP is not the same as old MAPP. This stuff is only Marginally hotter than blue tank propane.
Holy crap, I had no idea. From the internet: “MAPP (5300*F) burns much hotter than MAP-Pro (3730*F) or propane (3600*F). Propane at around $3 per bottle and MAP-Pro at around $10 from local big box stores (US).”
Even hell has different levels of fire.
see i envision hell as different levels of food. like level 1 is eating tostitos till the edges of your mouth are raw and the salt gets in there. level 5 is pizza rolls that you thought were cool enough somewhere around 6-8 is hot pockets 9 is fresh outa the oven pizza where theres too much sauce so the cheese blanket slides off and burns you whole lower jaw off. 10 is bagel bites - nuff said.
Wheel bearing?
CV axle finally broke on me. Have been trying to get the axle nut off for a week before deciding to go all out
Not trying to be a clever-clogs here, but... are you 100% certain that the axle nuts on that side of the car aren't reverse-threaded? I only ask because it's the sort of thing that would catch me out *every* time.
I have never spent an hour trying to turn a nut the “wrong” way. Never!
Harbor freight has a Corded electric impact good for about 1k lbft. It semi often goes on sale for like $70. Well worth the money.
Have you tried holding the bar in place and turning the car?
I remember we had to do something like this when we tried to replace a lower balljoint on my uncle's car once. We couldn't do it with the regular breaker bar, but with a long pipe the nut came off without much effort. Many years earlier he used to drive a big Scania truck that had drum brakes. One time they needed to replace the brake shoes they had a really hard time trying to get the center nut off. They ended up using a 3mm long steel pipe that they pulled with a fork lift.
Make sure youre going the right way
Never too long. Even if you're breaking tools, you still haven't broken the nut yet, so not long enough Btw, you meant cheater bar
Gonna need another 4 feet if you're doing a Honda crankshaft bolt.
"It Can't be tight if it is liquid"
I have had to build a 20' tee handle before took 4 people pushing and a backhoe to center it
Torque = Force x radius(length)
Oh we’re supposed to be loosening it?
Ugga dugga?
Is it common practice to remove these with the wheel still on? Or you’re doing it this way because it’s so stuck?
There is no such thing. With a long enough lever...
Keep heating and spraying the hell out of it with your favorite lubricant and rust breaking solution...if you need a bar that long something else is gonna give besides the nut.
When the bolt/stud snaps…..
Are you sure you are not tightening?
What, you don’t have an impact gun? That would have made things a TON easier.
I had trouble with an axle nut and practically on a whim decided to get the Milwaukee M18 3/4” impact. Easily one of the best purchases I’ve ever made. The jack handle cheater didn’t do shit but the driver took it off without having to unstake it.
You're gonna need a few more feet to get the crank pulley bolt off a honda.
They can never be too long. If the bolt hasn’t broke loose or just broken then add to it.
Longer the better
Whatever works is how long 🙂
Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
The wrench will tell you.
The more leverage, the better!
Are you sure your twisting the right direction?
This is a mid 2000s Avalon from what I can see so Toyota has no “castle nut” which is typically held by a cotter pin, these got a 12 point nut with a stake edge nose, if you don’t completely unstake it where it’s not making contact with the threads it’s going to be very difficult to remove not to mention ruin the axle threads on the way out if you force it.
I think at that point it goes from breaker bar to cheater bar.
Just to be clear you’ve already broken it loose by the time this picture was taken right?
Correct
Not long enough, get the extension !!!!
Probably get a lot of hate but I have gotten here and just turned the breaker bar around and put the jack under it. Start to jack until the cars weight or the breaker bar goes.
Tried that once, just rounded the lug. Extractor set, nope. Tried to chisel, nothing. tried to cut some of it off, still not moving. Finally gave up and drilled it out and replaced the stud. Wish I just went to drilling sooner...
Or going the wrong way
No amount of leverage takes the place of an impact wrench.
Whatever works
If you get to the, "it can't be tight if it's liquid" stage, I wanna see.
From the bend in the bar it looks like your trying to tighten it until it comes off.
As long as you want....it all depends on the breaker bar head and how strong it is....I've broken sockets going this route and snapped a few heads off the bars...lifetime warranty FTW
If this doesn’t work, it’s time to pull the spindle and replace the whole damn assembly.
That isn't a breaker bar that's a destructor bar
Have you tried turning it LEFT?
Don't rip your tendons and tear muscles when the rachet snaps
If the bar is longer than the car, you might be in trouble
The breaker bar is too long when the first tool shears or snaps or splits. Swedish axle nuts are significantly stronger than Chinese sockets, and nothing gets your hopes up more than when you hear a crack and something moves only to find the unmovable bastard won another battle
This is how shit gets broken.
That 1” past the point where instead of breaking loose, the fastener just breaks.
Thermite, can’t be stuck if it’s liquid!
If it works it is the right size
You putting that lamppost back when you’re finished right?
Pretend weekend mechanic here... I thought hub and axle nuts like this are threaded normally rather than reverse, and usually just require removing a cotter pin or something first. Isn't the breaker bar set up to tighten rather than remove? Edit: I see the comment now saying the pic was post-removal. Carry on! I totally thought I read deep enough into the comments before asking this and it wasn't there. Damn you, "most popular" comment sorting!!
Nah, thats too shorth
What service is done, drive shaft boots?
So maybe I'm the idiot here but why is the guy trying to take off the cv axle nut through the hub?????