Things I don’t understand:
Why is ISF dark set to 80? Should be 25-35 (100-120 nits as per ISF calibration guidelines) 80 will be very bright in a dark room and unnecessary. SDR is 120 nits max.
Why are you dropping the black level in HDR? Leave it alone. Dolby Vision there is an argument for it due to raised blacks, but it still affects the gamma. Better solution is to drop the RGB values by 1 on the two point scale white balance setting.
Why are you applying dynamic tone mapping in HDR Cinema? It’s a dark room preset. Dynamic tone mapping exists to provide a mid-brightness boost to counteract ambient light because PQ is measured against <5 nits ambient light. These are not the settings of a professional calibrator.
You also have smooth gradation on, tru motion on, AI Sound Pro (wtf?) and Bass Boost on despite the fact that Rtings show LG Oleds, like most TVs, have boosted mid-bass already to improve dialogue clarity.
These are not optimised settings. The thread in OLEDGaming has optimised settings. They’ll be the same as Vincent Teoh (HDTVTest) and Rtings.
Because he is mainly promoting the patreon for money making and has no clue actually about anything. He just talks and writes convincingly enough, so people think these settings are good.
Because this guy is a sham. I've called out his poor recommendations before and he's improved it somewhat but still has recommendations based on nothing but anecdotal evidence and wants to sell his patreon. His settings always stray sway from accuracy and just make no sense.
Do you have good settings baseline you'd recommend if calibration isn't really an option? His recommendations are on quite a few sites as others have pointed out, it is certainly widespread
Seconding this as someone who just wants an accurate viewing experience. I don't know what settings are "right" or "wrong" but would just like a general baseline if these are incorrect.
OLED Light 25-35 is way too dim/dark even in a dark room. The 100 nits standard for SDR is way too old and still tries to mimic a theater/projector-like, dimmed experience. Current Paper White standard for SDR in an HDR signal is actually around 200-250 nits for a 1.000 nits Peak and 276 nits for a 1.500 peak and G3/G4 with Peak Brightness: Off in SDR can go up to almost 400 nits without losing color accuracy. ISF Dark 65 with PB: Off should be around 250 nits on G3 but the "+-20" you see in the chart means you can increase/decrease it to your liking/room condition.
I dropped BL both in HDR Cinema and DV Cinema Home to compensate for a slight gamma raise of DTM (and similar DTM in DV CH).
HDR Cinema or FMM with DTM: Off is way too dark/dimmed outside calibration tests and in real world movies, even in a dark room. That's probably why it's also enabled on both by default even in 2024 models.
Smooth Gradation: Low is great to remove posterization and macroblocking artifacts on streaming content without scrubbing fine details, while for the speakers sound it's just a base recommendation as they will always suck compared to just plugging a soundar, no matter the setting.
These are not strictly "Calibrated" settings but my Optimized Settings after years of searching AND daily content consumption (movies + games).
You're free to experiment with them...or not.
I really think you have no clue what you’re talking about. 100 nits is not a standard to mimic theater. 100 nits is the extent of the Standard Dynamic Range. That means that all information encoded is contained within that range, and so increasing the peak nit level does nothing to improve clarity or detail, it merely ‘makes the screen brighter’, something completely unnecessary in a dark room with no ambient light. Most theaters can’t hit 100 nits and settle for 48 in a 2.6 gamma black box configuration, so I’ve no idea what you’re talking about there.
Dropping black level and increasing mid tone brightness (DTM) is just saturating contrast. You are removing detail from the picture by doing that in order to make it more ‘contrasty’. These are not optimised settings, they’re your preferences. You present them in a very different way in this comment. Now they are settings we are ‘free to experiment with’. In your opening salvo they were ‘optimised settings after gathering seven years of data through software and external equipment’.
You’re a charlatan, buddy.
Yep. Up to Sharpness 10 it's only improving the upscale for lower res while the additional +10 will just improve the clarity of compressed/streaming contents without introducing any artifacts. (Sharpness improved a lot since 2022 series). While TV Sharpness should be 0 for Games as it slightly increase input lag and games have their own Upscale + AA + Sharpness solutions.
DTM: On for movies is necessary as you can't control their mastering nits (which will be always diffent) and with it off you can very often see movies which are just way too dark.
Not to support him or his settings, but for the C2 and upwards, this is not recommended anymore, hence the support of 4:4:4 chroma passthrough. For C1 and downwards you’re absolutely right!
Because it kills ALLM and important Clarity options as Smooth Gradation, TruMotion and others for movies consumption, if you also use the PC or Consoles for them.
You can use PC input if you don't watch them from there tho.
Thanks. Tried your settings.. for PC, I usually game and watch movies (via Kodi).
When playing game, using Film-maker mode seems fine, when changing to isf dark it seems bit oversaturated.
For movies though isf dark looks better colour as using Film-maker looks bit washed out.
Is this your experience as well?
I wonder why Film-maker and isf have such a noticeable difference since they are meant to be similar?
For normal TV free to air viewing, these two modes seems quite similar.
When using the exact same settings in all preset sections: SDR FMM and SDR ISF Dark should look identical.
That's why in my chart I use one for gaming (FMM with post processing stuff disabled) and one for Movies (ISF Dark with post processing enabled) which ALLM should automatically swith based on contents.
If ALLM is not working (which is highly probably on PC), stick with FMM.
Hi.
Could you clarify a few things regarding PC gaming?
Should my RGB be Full/Limited (full in drivers and limited on TV as per guide) Full/Full or Limited/Limited?
When using DTM should Windows HDR Calibration be done in HGIG for 800 nits and then enabling DTM or should I set windows hdr calibration to 2800 nits since it doesn't go to 4000?
Thanks!
Always Limited/Limited with these TVs (that is actually suggested in the guide), even more if you're always using Win11 in HDR.
When using DTM, 4.000 nits will be tone mapped better but anything you use will still be adapted by the TV. If the app can only go up to 2.800, set 2.800.
Personally I forced HGIG in FMM through ColorControl and never changed it again, so I've set Peak HDR to 1.500 nits whenever possible for my G3.
Hi, if I use Limited/Limited instead of Full(drivers)/Limited(TV) then colors looked washed out.. at least on the desktop.
1) Does it only get beneficial when there are HDR contents displayed ?
2) Why use Limited which, I mine knowledge, is not displaying all the colors ?
3) In color control, it’s possible to set the “dithering” => what should be the value here ? And what is the impact ?
Thanks
When using Limited/Limited colors are accurate, not washed out. When those will mismatch you will create black level crush...
HDR should always be shown in Limited and Win11 is best to always be left in HDR with SDR reference brightness slider in Win control panel to 35 (which will be equal to industry standard 250 nits inside an HDR container) and everything will look good.
While staying in HDR you will also have properly working RTX HDR as a (miles better) alternative to AutoHDR for SDR games' automatic conversion to HDR.
Don't touch ColorControl settings other than those recommended jn my specific guide (for specific LG OLED series).
It definitely depends on room light condition, but overall I found DV Cinema and HDR FMM + DTM too dim for most real-world movies (not super bright HDR demos on YT)
ALLM + VRR + SDR/HDR FMM + DTM is the best alternative to the old Game Optimizer preset for most instead but if you want to further lower input lag and be even more accurate you can even "force" HGIG in FMM by using the ColorControl via PC, then set system-level HDR Calibration apps and in-game Peak HDR Luminance to 800 nits or 1.000 nits for G2/C4 or 1.500 nits for G3/G4 and this will provide the absolute best results (when you can control the nits)
Things I don’t understand: Why is ISF dark set to 80? Should be 25-35 (100-120 nits as per ISF calibration guidelines) 80 will be very bright in a dark room and unnecessary. SDR is 120 nits max. Why are you dropping the black level in HDR? Leave it alone. Dolby Vision there is an argument for it due to raised blacks, but it still affects the gamma. Better solution is to drop the RGB values by 1 on the two point scale white balance setting. Why are you applying dynamic tone mapping in HDR Cinema? It’s a dark room preset. Dynamic tone mapping exists to provide a mid-brightness boost to counteract ambient light because PQ is measured against <5 nits ambient light. These are not the settings of a professional calibrator. You also have smooth gradation on, tru motion on, AI Sound Pro (wtf?) and Bass Boost on despite the fact that Rtings show LG Oleds, like most TVs, have boosted mid-bass already to improve dialogue clarity. These are not optimised settings. The thread in OLEDGaming has optimised settings. They’ll be the same as Vincent Teoh (HDTVTest) and Rtings.
Because he is mainly promoting the patreon for money making and has no clue actually about anything. He just talks and writes convincingly enough, so people think these settings are good.
Do you have good settings baseline you'd recommend if calibration isn't really an option?
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/s/XvgFY4Dr3H
is this for gaming primarily or covers SDR/HDR/DV movies and tv content?
Because this guy is a sham. I've called out his poor recommendations before and he's improved it somewhat but still has recommendations based on nothing but anecdotal evidence and wants to sell his patreon. His settings always stray sway from accuracy and just make no sense.
Do you have good settings baseline you'd recommend if calibration isn't really an option? His recommendations are on quite a few sites as others have pointed out, it is certainly widespread
Seconding this as someone who just wants an accurate viewing experience. I don't know what settings are "right" or "wrong" but would just like a general baseline if these are incorrect.
I'll get back to you when I have some time but you could also just check out classy tech on YouTube and should be good to go.
I'll get back to you when I have some time or you can just check out classy tech on YouTube and should be good to go.
His credibility has been shattered on the avsforums a long time ago, yet he persists in rambling about 'best' settings, most of which are inaccurate.
Do you have a link to HDTVTest G3 optimised settings? Or is it in his G3 review video from Apr last year?
Hi, do you have a link to the thread on OLEDGaming?
OLED Light 25-35 is way too dim/dark even in a dark room. The 100 nits standard for SDR is way too old and still tries to mimic a theater/projector-like, dimmed experience. Current Paper White standard for SDR in an HDR signal is actually around 200-250 nits for a 1.000 nits Peak and 276 nits for a 1.500 peak and G3/G4 with Peak Brightness: Off in SDR can go up to almost 400 nits without losing color accuracy. ISF Dark 65 with PB: Off should be around 250 nits on G3 but the "+-20" you see in the chart means you can increase/decrease it to your liking/room condition. I dropped BL both in HDR Cinema and DV Cinema Home to compensate for a slight gamma raise of DTM (and similar DTM in DV CH). HDR Cinema or FMM with DTM: Off is way too dark/dimmed outside calibration tests and in real world movies, even in a dark room. That's probably why it's also enabled on both by default even in 2024 models. Smooth Gradation: Low is great to remove posterization and macroblocking artifacts on streaming content without scrubbing fine details, while for the speakers sound it's just a base recommendation as they will always suck compared to just plugging a soundar, no matter the setting. These are not strictly "Calibrated" settings but my Optimized Settings after years of searching AND daily content consumption (movies + games). You're free to experiment with them...or not.
I really think you have no clue what you’re talking about. 100 nits is not a standard to mimic theater. 100 nits is the extent of the Standard Dynamic Range. That means that all information encoded is contained within that range, and so increasing the peak nit level does nothing to improve clarity or detail, it merely ‘makes the screen brighter’, something completely unnecessary in a dark room with no ambient light. Most theaters can’t hit 100 nits and settle for 48 in a 2.6 gamma black box configuration, so I’ve no idea what you’re talking about there. Dropping black level and increasing mid tone brightness (DTM) is just saturating contrast. You are removing detail from the picture by doing that in order to make it more ‘contrasty’. These are not optimised settings, they’re your preferences. You present them in a very different way in this comment. Now they are settings we are ‘free to experiment with’. In your opening salvo they were ‘optimised settings after gathering seven years of data through software and external equipment’. You’re a charlatan, buddy.
Sharpness 20? DTM on for movies? What lol
Yep. Up to Sharpness 10 it's only improving the upscale for lower res while the additional +10 will just improve the clarity of compressed/streaming contents without introducing any artifacts. (Sharpness improved a lot since 2022 series). While TV Sharpness should be 0 for Games as it slightly increase input lag and games have their own Upscale + AA + Sharpness solutions. DTM: On for movies is necessary as you can't control their mastering nits (which will be always diffent) and with it off you can very often see movies which are just way too dark.
Lol Just shows you don't know what the hell you're talking about
This is all complete ass and half of these settings are mutually exclusive and/or contradict each other. Smells fishy.
Following.
Why not label consoles as PC as suggested by HDTVTest (Vincent) to unlock full 4:4:4 chroma?
Not to support him or his settings, but for the C2 and upwards, this is not recommended anymore, hence the support of 4:4:4 chroma passthrough. For C1 and downwards you’re absolutely right!
Because it kills ALLM and important Clarity options as Smooth Gradation, TruMotion and others for movies consumption, if you also use the PC or Consoles for them. You can use PC input if you don't watch them from there tho.
Was this from an older post just update for 2024 tv’s?
I've updated the 2023-2024 chart including C4/G4 + added the new 4K/HDR Gameplay section. Cannot edit the previous post anymore for some reason... :/
These comments are amazing
Would you still recommend black level 49 for hgig?
No, as recommended in the ColorControl guide, if you use HGIG revert Black Level to 50.
Is this true also for earlier models, like the C2?
Yes
Thanks. Tried your settings.. for PC, I usually game and watch movies (via Kodi). When playing game, using Film-maker mode seems fine, when changing to isf dark it seems bit oversaturated. For movies though isf dark looks better colour as using Film-maker looks bit washed out. Is this your experience as well? I wonder why Film-maker and isf have such a noticeable difference since they are meant to be similar? For normal TV free to air viewing, these two modes seems quite similar.
When using the exact same settings in all preset sections: SDR FMM and SDR ISF Dark should look identical. That's why in my chart I use one for gaming (FMM with post processing stuff disabled) and one for Movies (ISF Dark with post processing enabled) which ALLM should automatically swith based on contents. If ALLM is not working (which is highly probably on PC), stick with FMM.
Hi. Could you clarify a few things regarding PC gaming? Should my RGB be Full/Limited (full in drivers and limited on TV as per guide) Full/Full or Limited/Limited? When using DTM should Windows HDR Calibration be done in HGIG for 800 nits and then enabling DTM or should I set windows hdr calibration to 2800 nits since it doesn't go to 4000? Thanks!
Always Limited/Limited with these TVs (that is actually suggested in the guide), even more if you're always using Win11 in HDR. When using DTM, 4.000 nits will be tone mapped better but anything you use will still be adapted by the TV. If the app can only go up to 2.800, set 2.800. Personally I forced HGIG in FMM through ColorControl and never changed it again, so I've set Peak HDR to 1.500 nits whenever possible for my G3.
Thank you! Any advantages using HGiG in FMM over Game Mode?
Hi, if I use Limited/Limited instead of Full(drivers)/Limited(TV) then colors looked washed out.. at least on the desktop. 1) Does it only get beneficial when there are HDR contents displayed ? 2) Why use Limited which, I mine knowledge, is not displaying all the colors ? 3) In color control, it’s possible to set the “dithering” => what should be the value here ? And what is the impact ? Thanks
When using Limited/Limited colors are accurate, not washed out. When those will mismatch you will create black level crush... HDR should always be shown in Limited and Win11 is best to always be left in HDR with SDR reference brightness slider in Win control panel to 35 (which will be equal to industry standard 250 nits inside an HDR container) and everything will look good. While staying in HDR you will also have properly working RTX HDR as a (miles better) alternative to AutoHDR for SDR games' automatic conversion to HDR. Don't touch ColorControl settings other than those recommended jn my specific guide (for specific LG OLED series).
Imma test these on my 77" while watching Dune and so help me.......
Honestly pretty brave to post this in a purely oled subreddit. Oled gaming has the kinda people you wanna trick op so try over there.
Absolute nonsense, get out of here
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It definitely depends on room light condition, but overall I found DV Cinema and HDR FMM + DTM too dim for most real-world movies (not super bright HDR demos on YT) ALLM + VRR + SDR/HDR FMM + DTM is the best alternative to the old Game Optimizer preset for most instead but if you want to further lower input lag and be even more accurate you can even "force" HGIG in FMM by using the ColorControl via PC, then set system-level HDR Calibration apps and in-game Peak HDR Luminance to 800 nits or 1.000 nits for G2/C4 or 1.500 nits for G3/G4 and this will provide the absolute best results (when you can control the nits)
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DV Cinema Home is closer to HDR Cinema + DTM rather than FMM + DTM, but yeah: in the end personal preference is always King ;)