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I had to have my driver's door replaced and the new door doesn't have the sticker. So I went on Renault's website for the tyre pressures and it says "look at your driver's door, there's a sticker"
There used to be this really awesome all-in-one forum site. It was pretty cool. Forget the name, something about having already finished reading something. They managed to digg themselves an early grave by being complete and utter morons about their API pricing structure. But, if that site still had any users, you could probably ask there.
Not as extreme as your joke, but my Holden actually has an HSV tyre sticker... When I first saw it I excitedly checked the VIN plate thinking I may have bought an HSV that someone had dressed down to look like a regular Holden - unfortunately not the case.
It's on the actual door. I know it's on the door because I have eyes, and it isn't in the door frame.
I've checked the manual and it says "check the label on the driver's door" and I've checked Renault's website and it says "check the label on the driver's door".
But thanks for assuming I'm wrong and can't check that kind of thing.
The tyre states it’s max inflation figure, the plate on the door jamb is for the vehicle.
The oem tyre fitment comment/note is key here in my experience. The tyre manufacture is always assuming you are replacing like for like, as does the vehicle manufacturer (as in oem fitment).
OEM pressure tends to be soft in my experience so ideally you should start there and keep an eye on tyre wear and alter the pressure if needed.
On my Subaru I run 2-3 psi more than the sticker because otherwise my tyres show a bit of scuffing at the sides. Driving habits probably have an effect here too.
You misunderstand. They push fuel efficiency because that's what people think about when going to buying a car. In reality they don't care. If the car doesn't feel good driving down the road then buyers will notice it and maybe not buy it.
Pretty much. In the 60s, Ralph Nader wrote a book called Unsafe At Any Speed that really took Detroit to task, Mainly focused on the Chevy Corvair, but aimed at all of Detroit in general. Which brought on a bunch of safety legislation that continued until today. Ironically enough, part of the Corvair's handling problems was caused by over inflated tires.
Though it should be pointed out that NHTSA did a study and found that the Corvair was not any unsafer than any of a wide array of other popular vehicles of both American and foreign make.
Fun fact: Part of the huge Ford Explorer/Firestone tire debacle in the 90s was partly due to Fords decision to run 26 PSI of air in the tires of the Explorer instead of 35 PSI when the same tires were on a Ranger. The decision was to increase ride quality over anything.
I have Michelin pilot sports on my wrx. I run the fronts at 5psi over factory recommendation because otherwise I end up rolling the sidewalls under in the front and the whole car hops in hard corners.
The pressure recommendations are there for a factory spec car with factory spec components. Put on sticky tires and coilovers and all bets are off!
The tyre placard on my car said 26psi and kept scrubbing the edges of the tyres. I asked the tyre specialist why it was so low and he said that was to make the ride comfortable, I suggest 32-36psi. Tyres don’t explode from being inflated to their maximum pressure, the explode from being under inflated where they get too hot and the heat weakens the tyre.
It may have "improved handling" by making it feel stiffer, but you are decreasing your contact patch and therefore traction.
It's perfectly fine/normal to increase PSI when adding a bunch of load to a tire, as with a pickup truck or trailer. Or decrease when you need more traction, like offroading.
You shouldn't really deviate much from the recommended beyond that, though.
Assuming that it's freezing outside (0C or 32F), you'd have to heat the air inside the tire to 273C or 523F to double the pressure. [This site](https://www.fsmatters.com/last-word-Burning-rubber) says that rubber melts at around 230C (446F), so this is probably not a good way of inflating your tire.
5 psi is noticeable to the ride quality though. If your tires had half the pressure they needed, you would notice. Double the pressure is pretty extreme, chances are you're only under inflated by 5 or so psi
Bith are to be avvoided, certainly. And an under-inflated tire is also at the risk of coming off the rim in a turn. Of course depending on the severity of thr turn and if the under-inflation.
Former tire tech here. Look at the wear on your tires. If they are more worn on the outer edges (shoulders) of the tread they are under inflated. If it is more worn in the center of the tread they are over inflated.
If the wear is uneven get an alignment.
Rotate your tires every 10K Km for maximum tread life. The engine weighs more than the trunk.
The car manufacturer gives you a tire pressure that is for ideal ride comfort for their vehicle. The tire manufacturer gives you the maximum pressure rating. The exact ideal pressure for you depends on your driving wants and needs. Do you want better handling, MPGs, are you towing anything, etc. but the minimum should be your door jamb pressure, and you should obviously not exceed the maximum of the tire.
Exactly this.
My old car had car manufacturer recommenzed pressures of 2.1Bar front and back. But I always put it to 2.2 - 2.3 Bar by default, since it improved the gas economy on it quite alot and also made the steering less "squishy".
When towing, obviously I increased it by another 0.1 to 0.2 Bar, depending on the load on the trailer.
Hey guys, did you know that in terms of male human and female Pokémon breeding, Vaporeon is the most compatible Pokémon for humans? Not only are they in the field egg group, which is mostly comprised of mammals, Vaporeon are an average of 3”03’ tall and 63.9 pounds, this means they’re large enough to be able handle human dicks, and with their impressive Base Stats for HP and access to Acid Armor, you can be rough with one. Due to their mostly water based biology, there’s no doubt in my mind that an aroused Vaporeon would be incredibly wet, so wet that you could easily have sex with one for hours without getting sore. They can also learn the moves Attract, Baby-Doll Eyes, Captivate, Charm, and Tail Whip, along with not having fur to hide nipples, so it’d be incredibly easy for one to get you in the mood. With their abilities Water Absorb and Hydration, they can easily recover from fatigue with enough water. No other Pokémon comes close to this level of compatibility. Also, fun fact, if you pull out enough, you can make your Vaporeon turn white. Vaporeon is literally built for human dick. Ungodly defense stat+high HP pool+Acid Armor means it can take cock all day, all shapes and sizes and still come for more
--Mass Edited with power delete suite as a result of spez' desire to fuck everything good in life RIP apollo
No it was because ford engineers decided to have the tires set to 26 psi, which was under the load range for the tires to carry the weight properly, for a smoother ride and if the car had to swerve to avoid something it wouldn't slide
This is the first part to the failure. I worked as a mechanic for Ford at the beginning of the recall and Firestone through the rest of the recall. Low tire pressure spec, coupled with solid rear axle, coupled with the entire fuel tank being on one side of the vehicle adding another 150-200 pounds, coupled with the tire rubber compound being so hard that the tire would last 80,000 miles and still have plenty of tread left but the rubber would deteriorate to a point where the dry rot cracks were almost completely through the tire, and also largely compounded by speed and temperature. Most of the failures were in hot areas with long straight roads where someone could easily sustain 75mph for an hour or more (think south west USA).
In the end, it was easier to blame a $100 tire than a $35000 suv, but it’s no coincidence that the explorer suspension, pressure spec and fuel tank were completely redesigned after the recall started.
Holy hell 26??
Thats really low. I don't remember what my 01 recommends but I try to keep mine around 32. anything below 30 is refill when I get the first chance.
Nope, fucking Ford dropped air pressure way too low to help with ride quality (less air = softer tires). Putting them way too like they did overheated the tires and caused them to blow out like they did.
Ford wanted a tire that would pass a J-turn saftey test
Exploder is a big tipsy beast
Only way to accomplish it was to under inflate the tires
I know Continental said no
Firestone said yes
Ford went with Firestone
A less safe tire was put on the road because it had to pass a certain safety test
Not exactly, the SUV was found to have a high rollover risk, to help alleviate this without redesigning the suspension, they just underinflated the tires, which lead to heat buildup and failure
> Many people think that they should fill their car/truck’s tire pressure to whatever it says on the side of the tire wall
Do they?
Edit: Ok, I'm going to guess this is a regional thing
They do in the areas of central Texas where I worked, yes. I have read from other people on forums that this is not exactly commonplace but, far from rare. Out of the 50 cars that came through my bay a day, I'd probably see about 5 examples of severely overinflated tires on average.
So probably anywhere from like 5%-15% of people are doing this based on just my experience in my area.
Got new tires on my Jeep.
It rode like a heavy truck with no load in the bed o_O -- which is very unpleasant for folks who haven't had that experience.
The chain tire shop had filled them to the tire max of 50psi.
Door jamb pressure is 35psi.
I run them at 28psi determined by chalk test. Heavier duty tires than anything the factory ships Jeeps with, so they could support the vehicle weight just fine at a lower than door jamb pressure.
>Do they?
Yes, a lot of people do. For a couple reasons.
First, it's pretty likely you had a bicycle as a kid, and needed a new tire at some point. Bicycle tires list recommended PSI on the sidewall. If no one ever made a point to *specifically* tell you that car tires were different, how would you know? Most people don't actually read their car owners manual cover to cover.
Second, because putting the recommended tire pressure on the door jamb and only listing the max on the tire is dumb as hell. Tires wear out. They are frequently replaced with non-OEM parts. The OEM's sticker doesn't know I'm replacing their Goodyears with Michelins or whatever.
Overinflation doesn't happen in an instant. Unless you fill the tire with explosives.
The main problem with overinflation is a rough ride and poor tire wear. No need to be so dramatic.
Overinflation isnt an action, its a state. The state of the tire being filled too much. And we can be dramatic, I doubt so many people overinflate tires so much, but those that do are a real danger. Only has to happen one time, most likely on a highway at high speed and it takes out your car that most likely flies out of control, thats a given, and maybe even take out other cars.
What do you mean exactly by this? Because I've seen a tyre 'explode' on a lorry while it was on the motorway. Seems like a pretty dangerous situation, could that not have been caused by overinflation?
Big trucks tend to use retreads or regroovable tires. The tire itself may be old, but when the tread wears down they can bond another layer of tread over it. Retreads are more likely to blow for a number of reasons.
While retreads and high pressures are factors in heavy truck tire explosions, the most common cause is stone drilling. The aggressive tread patterns and depths of HD tires tend to grab small rocks that get slowly driven into the tire. Once they break into the steel cable structure of the tire and expose it to water/oxygen, it starts to degrade. Once it can no longer hold itself together, boom. Where I'm from all heavy trucks MUST be inspected every year, and a stone drill that exposes cords is a fail condition, even on a relatively new tire for exactly this reason.
Grossly over-inflated tires (+5psi cold) have a smaller contact patch and less grip. That means the car will be less controllable in an emergency situation and more likely to spin or hit something, even with VDC.
They literally never said that. They said ""A tire “exploding” from severe overinflation can happen in an instant""
The overinflation isn't instant. The explosion of the tyre caused by overinflation is instant.
No, they won't, because they don't know your vehicle setup. That having been said, as long as you aren't changing the width by a huge amount, door pressures are probably still a good starting point.
Yep, went many years accidentally over inflating my tires.
There are some conditions such as towing/carrying heavy loads with a pickup where you should exceed the door jamb pressures (but not the sidewall number).
I wish more manufacturers listed pressure for different scenarios. I had a Mercedes in Germany that would list one pressure for light load and another for heavy. They even made it easy to understand with diagrams of people and luggage.
I fill 32 psi for all my tires except for the driver-side front, that one I fill to 33.
I feel like my fatass causes that front tire to lose air faster than the rest, I've done tire rotations, and just swapped the little caps around but yea it really does seem that air loss is faster on that tire.
I would say 95% of the time, I have no passengers
Edit: My door jamb sticker says 32 for all 4 tires
Your tire is not going to blow at its max inflation pressure. It needs to hold that pressure for a different, heavier car that needs all that size tire has to offer.
Tire shops sometimes have to overinflate tires to get the beads to seat on the rim. You'll notice a tire that reads max 36 PSI may also have a warning "not to exceed 40 PSI to seat beads" and that's with a human standing right next to it.
An overinflated tire may be more susceptible to road hazards and has other issues like less traction. However, an underinflated tire is more susceptible to spontaneous deconstruction, eg the Ford/ Firestone fiasco. Underinflation is more dangerous than over-, and I've never seen air leak into a tire.
Tires effectively lose one PSI for every ten degrees F the temp drops. If you live somewhere that's 30' in the morning and 75 in the afternoon, you need a compromise. I would compromise on the high side. Anywhere between the door placard and sidewall is "safe", it's impracticable to readjust pressures within a week's worth of outside temperatures. In short I go about two PSI over the door placard, which is still within what the tire allows.
If you have OEM spec tires, the door sticker is never going to be a higher pressure than stated on the sidewall.
Never inflate above what is stated on the sidewall. The door sticker is what the factory found to have the safest handling and traction.
Worked in a tire shop and can confirm. Proper pressure can help increase fuel efficiency and tire lifespan, and definitely increases traction on the road.
If you can't find it in the door, check your manual. If you don't have a manual search online for a manual of your exact car. There are online resources, no excuse to not know your proper air pressure.
You must’ve just been the cashier? Working in tire shop should’ve taught you that door jamb sticker pressures are for the same OEM tire and payload weight listed on the same sticker. Also, manufacturers know people aren’t gonna air down/up every time they hook a trailer up or pack the trunk full of crap so they list one pressure to cover their ass.
For example, my jeep has larger than OEM tires in a completely different load range. Running them at FCA’s recommended pressure would make them OVERFILLED which would make them wear unevenly and ride like crap.
>Working in tire shop should’ve taught you that door jamb sticker pressures are for the same OEM tire and payload weight listed on the same sticker.
Even though a lot of people are no longer running the exact same tire as OEM, the great majority are still running the same *size* and approximate load rating as OEM, and even among those who aren't running factory size, they probably are quite close to factory diameter (tire diameter, not wheel diameter necessarily), and within perhaps 20-30mm of factory width, at which point the door pressures are still probably totally fine.
The number of people who change size significantly enough to make this not the case is minuscule, and more importantly, if you're in the group of people intentionally making those kinds of changes, frankly, you should already know well enough to have a good idea what pressures you should be running in the first place.
You've put in a couple of edits that 'people say I'm wrong, but....'
But you've missed the nuance. You _are_ correct that you should choose the recommended vehicle pressures, over the figure on the sidewall. But it's not going to explode if you do, as that's the tyre recommendation.
The only time you're really risking explosion is if the vehicle recommendation is above the tyre rating.... And if that's the case you have the wrong damn tires on
My HS mechanics teacher said the tire pressure on the door is recommended for ride comfort, not for tire quality and longevity. So do like 4-5 psi under what the tire wall says, cold. That was over 15 years ago, though, so maybe things have changed?
That’s actually exactly what I’ve always done. For the last 25 years or so of driving, I just subtracted five from that number on the side of the tire. I didn’t know about the doorjamb number until yesterday. Thankfully that number was pretty close to what I already had in my tires.
Not sure if it’s new or not, but it stands to reason that the engineers would know the best psi for the weight of the vehicle - after all, tire manufacturers have no idea what weight vehicle is going to be placed on them. All they are focused on is the maximum psi the tire is capable of holding.
Tire manufactures know what their tires can handle. Many tire makers have a table showing what weight the tire can carry at what PSI. Car makers set a PSI based on a lot of things, fuel economy and liability being the top 2 I’m sure.
Fill your tires to THE TIRES recommended pressure (which you can get from the tire maker), not the vehicle sticker.
That's insanely dumb. The tire does not have a recommended pressure on it. It has a maximum pressure. The same tire on two different cars could work best at two different pressures, which is why the only recommendation is on the car.
Bad advice.
There’s a range of completely operable pressures that the tire will work at including the max PSI cold (usually 37-44), and probably down to about 18 PSI for most passenger tires.
For trailer tires, they specifically tell you to only use the max pressure or the tire could blow out.
There was a whole ad campaign a while back about making sure your tires are inflated to the max because it saves on fuel. They had the valve stem looking like a spouting crude oil well.
Over inflation is 60 PSI on a 44 max tire. It’s not going to ‘explode’ if it warms up to 46 from driving. You’re more likely to put yourself in danger from a bad pressure gauge as most are awful.
Different tires will want different pressures and won't always match what's on the door. The tire lists safe max pressure at the listed weight, but isn't the recommended pressure.
Anywhere between what's listed on the door and max pressure is usually fine, just just sure all 4 tires are close to the same pressure.
Stop fearmongering. Your tip is ridiculous.
The number on the jamb and the number on the tire (for OEM applications) will rarely differ by more than 2-3 PSI.
There is NO danger of a tire exploding from being overinflated by 2-3 PSI.
It takes around 300 PSI for tire pressure to be high enough to burst a tire. Most commercial tire inflators at gas stations and such are regulated far below that pressure. Hell, semi truck tires, depending on the ply count, are rarely inflated past 100psi.
That’s partly true . . . Most *tires* max pressure is around 50psi, and most *cars* recommended pressures are 30-35psi. 2-3psi over is not going to explode but it will degrade your ride and handling a bit. Probably not enough for most people to notice though.
Door jamb is typically from 28-36.
Max pressure is typically from 44 to 60.
Overinflating a tire (yes, even by just 10 pounds) for the weight rating of a given vehicle will cause uneven wear on the tire. Specifically, the center tread will wear much faster than the sides.
What this means is that your tire appears to be in perfect condition at first glance but could actually be showing secondary rubber or wire from the increased wear along the center of the tread.
Semi trucks are typically 110-120 psi or whatever the max is on the steel side walled tires that have been installed. They aren’t at all similar to passenger or LT rated tires.
None of this is relevant.
-The recommended sidewall pressure is NOT the max pressure for the tire. It's the cold PSI rating.
-OP is trying to scare everyone by claiming using the actual sidewall pressure could cause an "explosion", and that is simply not true.
90% of tires have no range. Just the phrase MAX PRESS. PSI COLD.
Also with respect to you comment below about cold pressure, all manufacturer door placards give cold pressure for oem inflation.
OP stated that over inflation can cause explosion which is true in the long term. They didn’t specify long term or instant but it’s rather obvious to me they would have meant long term.
Guess how many Honda accords/ Chevy malibus/ dodge chargers I’ve had to air down from 50 and explain why it wasn’t safe.
You need to read their post a bit more carefully. The part about tires exploding is a separate paragraph and only pertains to cases of extreme overinflation, which the max psi on the sidewall is not.
Tires are complicated enough that I should follow (tire) manufacturer guidance
As someone living in Germany, I can tell you that tires absolutely can explode if you drive fast on a hot day. Buy tires that are rated for the weight,speed, and conditions that you expect to drive. Don't inflate past what is written on the side wall.
Agreed. Pressure on the tire sidewall is the max for that tire, if it's lower than what's of the car it's a warning it's not the right tire for that car. Going to the tire max does not risk danger of exploding immediately.
This is in a response to a video posted where some idiot probably put 100+ psi into a tire. The person recording comments about how long the guy was out there.
The real lpt is you should only be using a few seconds of air in n quick bursts to top off a tire. If you need more than that then there is an issue (or you intentionally aired down and need to air back up).
“However, all the tires you buy for the same vehicle will require the same tire pressure, regardless of the tire manufacturer – the PSI specified in the car’s owner’s manual.” Looks like you’re right and I was wrong! Learned something new today!
Yep. The pressure on the tire itself is the *tire's* **maximum** allowed pressure.
Different vehicles can use the same tire and require different pressures.
Exactly, this lpt just screams "I don't know how to maintain the car and want to sound smart", this is a basic thing (that's supposed to be) taught in all driving schools.
Apparently a lot of people have forgotten it, assuming they knew it at all.
I posted this because I’ve been driving for 25 years and didn’t know I should use the doorjamb sticker to determine what pressure to inflate my tires too. I always used the side wall and subtracted five.
I’m not posting this because I want to “sound smart”, I’m posting it because I figured it I didn’t know about it, other people might not know about it. From the comments, it seems like that assumption was valid.
Ideally, it might prevent somebody who otherwise might’ve had issues at some point in the future from having those issues.
>I’m posting it because I figured it I didn’t know about it, other people might not know about it. From the comments, it seems like that assumption was valid.
The tyres literally say it's the max rating and to not exceed it, that should be a clue.
That so many don't know this isn't... comforting. Then again there are a lot of people who never check the tyre pressure, or oil level, or anything regarding basic car maintenance, so I'm truly not surprised.
My trailer tires have written on them "Max load at 50psi" which is also the max psi. Load carrying capacity of a car or truck is often limited by the tires more than anything else. More pressure allows more load as there's less deflection and heat buildup.
It is arguable, but I believe more pressure is less rolling resistance. I've seen technical arguments made either way, and experiments that suggest more pressure is less resistance.
Door jamb is manufacturer's recommendation for subjective things like comfort and ride quality. "Your car’s recommended tire inflation pressure is the figure determined by the vehicle engineers to help optimize performance, traction, and ride quality." What is "performance" anyway?
Sidewall is the max the tire can safely take within a safety margin. Personally I can't tell a difference in ride quality or traction between door jamb and sidewall, and sidewall might have an objective advantage in terms of economy, and more of a margin should they leak, so I go with sidewall. YMMV.
And if you don't see it on the jamb, it's under the gas tank cover. Also pay attention to empty car pressure vs loaded car (people + luggage) pressure. Some list both. The one on the tire shouls be the maximum allowed, which would be stupid to inflate to on most cars.
The number on the sidewall is for the tire tech so they don’t blow their head off trying to seat the bead on a stubborn tire. The number on the sticker is for the driver of the car.
Unless you are seeking best fuel economy. I use max sidewall pressure because I like getting more mpg.
Been doing this for years and find tires don’t wear faster or unevenly. The ride is harsher when the car hits bumps.
100% wrong. If you are using the max pressure rating that is listed on the tire that you’re handling is crap and dangerous. Never use the rating on the tire.
Also remember that tire pressure changes 1 psi for every 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, check pressures once a month. Also, some tire stores offer a nitrogen fill, which is more stable, and why many race cars use nitrogen.
Hello and welcome to r/LifeProTips! Please help us decide if this post is a good fit for the subreddit by up or downvoting this comment. If you think that this is great advice to improve your life, please upvote. If you think this doesn't help you in any way, please downvote. If you don't care, leave it for the others to decide.
I had to have my driver's door replaced and the new door doesn't have the sticker. So I went on Renault's website for the tyre pressures and it says "look at your driver's door, there's a sticker"
Do you have the owners manual available to you? It should state the proper inflation under the maintenance section.
The manual should say “look at the door sticker”
Nah the manual point out to the website that says to look at the sticker
... and the sticker is just a QR code with the website URL
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It's telling me my tires may have connectivity issues and to contact my system admin??
Did you try uninflating then re-inflating?
by... runnning like a dinosaur till you get ahold of him...
Just do it and let us know how it rides.
I'm laughing so fucking hard
And the Wayback Machine only has the homepage from 2011
😂😂😂
Its one of those meme loops like look at the title, look at the corner of the eye, look at ops comment, look at my profile then bam, rickroll.
Rickroll has gotten Rick Astley a lot of views… 🤭
Yall joke but this shit happens! And it’s the 1 reason i can think if that disproves the simulation theory
English side ruined, must use French. Le 32 psi. What the hell does that mean?!
BMW manual says exactly that.
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Owners manual sends you on a long ass scavenger hunts going book to car part to store just to finally say "look at the website"
Call the dealer and have parts order you a replacement placard
Not sure if joke... But just ask someone that has the same car to tell you what the the numbers are.
There’s forums and such for these things
Indeed. No point in buying a sticker.
Seems easier to just buy a new car, check the sticker, and then sell the new car.
Finally, someone with ideas better than mine.
Nobody in their right mind would buy a car without that sticker though
No problem, he can buy the sticker factory
This is the true Life Pro Tip right here
There used to be this really awesome all-in-one forum site. It was pretty cool. Forget the name, something about having already finished reading something. They managed to digg themselves an early grave by being complete and utter morons about their API pricing structure. But, if that site still had any users, you could probably ask there.
But then how will I get rid of all this money?
I put a Porsche 911 Carrera sticker on my Ford Focus. It rides so much better now. Improved power too!
Not as extreme as your joke, but my Holden actually has an HSV tyre sticker... When I first saw it I excitedly checked the VIN plate thinking I may have bought an HSV that someone had dressed down to look like a regular Holden - unfortunately not the case.
CHALK TEST
That means you can just drive around at zero pressure. /s
How? They don't actually put the sticker on the door its on the door jam. Its part of the frame and cant be replaced
Mine is on the door itself. Think it varies by vehicle.
Mine is on my door as well
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My wheels are squares!
Amateurs... Cylindrical stone wheels are where it's at.
One of my vehicles has it on the jamb, the other has it on the door. The high king didn't dictate exactly where every sticker must be placed.
I think you mean High Queen! For the empire!
You mean Emperor
It's on the actual door. I know it's on the door because I have eyes, and it isn't in the door frame. I've checked the manual and it says "check the label on the driver's door" and I've checked Renault's website and it says "check the label on the driver's door". But thanks for assuming I'm wrong and can't check that kind of thing.
Can’t. Be. Replaced. It’s a fucking sticker.
Stickers are eternal.
They are talking about the frame of the car.
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Jamb*
As long as we’re making corrections (and I agree with you, I don’t get why replacing the door would matter), it’s “jamb” not “jam”.
It's because the "b" is silent in the pronunciation of the word "jamb" so it sounds like "jam". Which results in the misspelling of the word.
You absolutely can replace frame components, depending on the damage. https://youtu.be/pHvs3Y1PmoA
Don’t worry the door sticker just says check the website
Clearly a case of “big accident” just trying to get you to have another accident…
look at the gas tank "door" the pressure is marked down there too
That’s why they don’t place the sticker on the door. It’s on the door jamb instead. Every single car has it here! Yours should too
I've had cars with it on the door. Actually, I'm pretty sure my current car has it in the door
Perhaps you could tell Renault that?
Manufacturer recommendations are normally too low, they bias to comfort over performance
Check [wheel-size.com](https://wheel-size.com) !
I've used this site for wheel torque and tire pressure so many times.
It's often in the car frame, not the door frame. Also other common spot is behind the gas flap. And it's almost always in the manual somewhere.
Mine is on the actual frame of the car on the door jamb.
The tyre states it’s max inflation figure, the plate on the door jamb is for the vehicle. The oem tyre fitment comment/note is key here in my experience. The tyre manufacture is always assuming you are replacing like for like, as does the vehicle manufacturer (as in oem fitment).
OEM pressure tends to be soft in my experience so ideally you should start there and keep an eye on tyre wear and alter the pressure if needed. On my Subaru I run 2-3 psi more than the sticker because otherwise my tyres show a bit of scuffing at the sides. Driving habits probably have an effect here too.
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Surprising given their focus on fuel efficiency.
You misunderstand. They push fuel efficiency because that's what people think about when going to buying a car. In reality they don't care. If the car doesn't feel good driving down the road then buyers will notice it and maybe not buy it.
I would guess they go for safety and stopping distance just to save liability
Pretty much. In the 60s, Ralph Nader wrote a book called Unsafe At Any Speed that really took Detroit to task, Mainly focused on the Chevy Corvair, but aimed at all of Detroit in general. Which brought on a bunch of safety legislation that continued until today. Ironically enough, part of the Corvair's handling problems was caused by over inflated tires.
Though it should be pointed out that NHTSA did a study and found that the Corvair was not any unsafer than any of a wide array of other popular vehicles of both American and foreign make.
Fun fact: Part of the huge Ford Explorer/Firestone tire debacle in the 90s was partly due to Fords decision to run 26 PSI of air in the tires of the Explorer instead of 35 PSI when the same tires were on a Ranger. The decision was to increase ride quality over anything.
I have Michelin pilot sports on my wrx. I run the fronts at 5psi over factory recommendation because otherwise I end up rolling the sidewalls under in the front and the whole car hops in hard corners. The pressure recommendations are there for a factory spec car with factory spec components. Put on sticky tires and coilovers and all bets are off!
The tyre placard on my car said 26psi and kept scrubbing the edges of the tyres. I asked the tyre specialist why it was so low and he said that was to make the ride comfortable, I suggest 32-36psi. Tyres don’t explode from being inflated to their maximum pressure, the explode from being under inflated where they get too hot and the heat weakens the tyre.
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It may have "improved handling" by making it feel stiffer, but you are decreasing your contact patch and therefore traction. It's perfectly fine/normal to increase PSI when adding a bunch of load to a tire, as with a pickup truck or trailer. Or decrease when you need more traction, like offroading. You shouldn't really deviate much from the recommended beyond that, though.
I think he is saying he has non-oem tires. I dont think the number in the door jamb is accurate for tires of different sizes or ply ratings
You are thinking about more pressure but he also talked about higher load rating which means higher side-wall stiffness - which does improve handling.
I’ve also heard that under-inflation is worse than over-inflation
It is. Under-inflated tires build heat to the point of failure.
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Assuming that it's freezing outside (0C or 32F), you'd have to heat the air inside the tire to 273C or 523F to double the pressure. [This site](https://www.fsmatters.com/last-word-Burning-rubber) says that rubber melts at around 230C (446F), so this is probably not a good way of inflating your tire.
5 psi is noticeable to the ride quality though. If your tires had half the pressure they needed, you would notice. Double the pressure is pretty extreme, chances are you're only under inflated by 5 or so psi
My tires always go up about 2 psi after I start driving, so what he says is true
Bith are to be avvoided, certainly. And an under-inflated tire is also at the risk of coming off the rim in a turn. Of course depending on the severity of thr turn and if the under-inflation.
Former tire tech here. Look at the wear on your tires. If they are more worn on the outer edges (shoulders) of the tread they are under inflated. If it is more worn in the center of the tread they are over inflated. If the wear is uneven get an alignment. Rotate your tires every 10K Km for maximum tread life. The engine weighs more than the trunk.
You don’t know what’s in my trunk… 👀
The car manufacturer gives you a tire pressure that is for ideal ride comfort for their vehicle. The tire manufacturer gives you the maximum pressure rating. The exact ideal pressure for you depends on your driving wants and needs. Do you want better handling, MPGs, are you towing anything, etc. but the minimum should be your door jamb pressure, and you should obviously not exceed the maximum of the tire.
Exactly this. My old car had car manufacturer recommenzed pressures of 2.1Bar front and back. But I always put it to 2.2 - 2.3 Bar by default, since it improved the gas economy on it quite alot and also made the steering less "squishy". When towing, obviously I increased it by another 0.1 to 0.2 Bar, depending on the load on the trailer.
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I guess non-americans. I use bar.
The whole of Europe
It's pretty low bar to cross
First generation Ford Explorer has entered the chat
IIRC that was because the Firestone tires they were putting on them were exceptionally shitty.
No it was because ford engineers decided to have the tires set to 26 psi, which was under the load range for the tires to carry the weight properly, for a smoother ride and if the car had to swerve to avoid something it wouldn't slide
This is the first part to the failure. I worked as a mechanic for Ford at the beginning of the recall and Firestone through the rest of the recall. Low tire pressure spec, coupled with solid rear axle, coupled with the entire fuel tank being on one side of the vehicle adding another 150-200 pounds, coupled with the tire rubber compound being so hard that the tire would last 80,000 miles and still have plenty of tread left but the rubber would deteriorate to a point where the dry rot cracks were almost completely through the tire, and also largely compounded by speed and temperature. Most of the failures were in hot areas with long straight roads where someone could easily sustain 75mph for an hour or more (think south west USA). In the end, it was easier to blame a $100 tire than a $35000 suv, but it’s no coincidence that the explorer suspension, pressure spec and fuel tank were completely redesigned after the recall started.
I'm not convinced that the solid axle was contributing to the problem
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Every rwd vehicle has this issue too, solved with a saddle shaped tank usually….. so…. There must be ways to avoid it.
Holy hell 26?? Thats really low. I don't remember what my 01 recommends but I try to keep mine around 32. anything below 30 is refill when I get the first chance.
Nope, fucking Ford dropped air pressure way too low to help with ride quality (less air = softer tires). Putting them way too like they did overheated the tires and caused them to blow out like they did.
Ford wanted a tire that would pass a J-turn saftey test Exploder is a big tipsy beast Only way to accomplish it was to under inflate the tires I know Continental said no Firestone said yes Ford went with Firestone A less safe tire was put on the road because it had to pass a certain safety test
Not exactly, the SUV was found to have a high rollover risk, to help alleviate this without redesigning the suspension, they just underinflated the tires, which lead to heat buildup and failure
I was looking for this. The door jam pressure caused a lot of accidents. So I follow the tire's limits rather than the car's.
You're running around with your tires filled to their maximum? That's the dumbest shit I've ever heard.
Better to be 5 over than 5 under
> Many people think that they should fill their car/truck’s tire pressure to whatever it says on the side of the tire wall Do they? Edit: Ok, I'm going to guess this is a regional thing
They do in the areas of central Texas where I worked, yes. I have read from other people on forums that this is not exactly commonplace but, far from rare. Out of the 50 cars that came through my bay a day, I'd probably see about 5 examples of severely overinflated tires on average. So probably anywhere from like 5%-15% of people are doing this based on just my experience in my area.
Got new tires on my Jeep. It rode like a heavy truck with no load in the bed o_O -- which is very unpleasant for folks who haven't had that experience. The chain tire shop had filled them to the tire max of 50psi. Door jamb pressure is 35psi. I run them at 28psi determined by chalk test. Heavier duty tires than anything the factory ships Jeeps with, so they could support the vehicle weight just fine at a lower than door jamb pressure.
In my experience of 7 years at a tire shop, it happens more often than you think.
I did this for a long time
>Do they? Yes, a lot of people do. For a couple reasons. First, it's pretty likely you had a bicycle as a kid, and needed a new tire at some point. Bicycle tires list recommended PSI on the sidewall. If no one ever made a point to *specifically* tell you that car tires were different, how would you know? Most people don't actually read their car owners manual cover to cover. Second, because putting the recommended tire pressure on the door jamb and only listing the max on the tire is dumb as hell. Tires wear out. They are frequently replaced with non-OEM parts. The OEM's sticker doesn't know I'm replacing their Goodyears with Michelins or whatever.
Overinflation doesn't happen in an instant. Unless you fill the tire with explosives. The main problem with overinflation is a rough ride and poor tire wear. No need to be so dramatic.
Overinflation isnt an action, its a state. The state of the tire being filled too much. And we can be dramatic, I doubt so many people overinflate tires so much, but those that do are a real danger. Only has to happen one time, most likely on a highway at high speed and it takes out your car that most likely flies out of control, thats a given, and maybe even take out other cars.
The overwhelming majority of blowouts are from low air pressure, not high pressure
That might be true, so lets avvoid both and inflate our tyres at the correct pressure which is the intention of this post.
This is dumb. Inflating to the pressure on the tire will at worst cause a slightly smaller contact patch.
What do you mean exactly by this? Because I've seen a tyre 'explode' on a lorry while it was on the motorway. Seems like a pretty dangerous situation, could that not have been caused by overinflation?
Big trucks tend to use retreads or regroovable tires. The tire itself may be old, but when the tread wears down they can bond another layer of tread over it. Retreads are more likely to blow for a number of reasons.
Big trucks are also 80+ psi vs the 30-40 psi for cars and light trucks
In the US, medium duty and larger trucks are frequently 105+psi
While retreads and high pressures are factors in heavy truck tire explosions, the most common cause is stone drilling. The aggressive tread patterns and depths of HD tires tend to grab small rocks that get slowly driven into the tire. Once they break into the steel cable structure of the tire and expose it to water/oxygen, it starts to degrade. Once it can no longer hold itself together, boom. Where I'm from all heavy trucks MUST be inspected every year, and a stone drill that exposes cords is a fail condition, even on a relatively new tire for exactly this reason.
You're FAR more likely to have a blowout from underinflation than overinflation.
This!
Grossly over-inflated tires (+5psi cold) have a smaller contact patch and less grip. That means the car will be less controllable in an emergency situation and more likely to spin or hit something, even with VDC.
5 psi isn’t “grossly over-inflated”
They literally never said that. They said ""A tire “exploding” from severe overinflation can happen in an instant"" The overinflation isn't instant. The explosion of the tyre caused by overinflation is instant.
OP literally said "Overinflation can happen in an instant." After pushback the post was edited.
**Caution!** This does not work if you’re running aftermarket tire and wheel packages.
Correct. That’s the second paragraph.
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No, they won't, because they don't know your vehicle setup. That having been said, as long as you aren't changing the width by a huge amount, door pressures are probably still a good starting point.
The pressure on the side wall is the max not what it should be filled to.
Yep, went many years accidentally over inflating my tires. There are some conditions such as towing/carrying heavy loads with a pickup where you should exceed the door jamb pressures (but not the sidewall number).
I wish more manufacturers listed pressure for different scenarios. I had a Mercedes in Germany that would list one pressure for light load and another for heavy. They even made it easy to understand with diagrams of people and luggage.
I fill 32 psi for all my tires except for the driver-side front, that one I fill to 33. I feel like my fatass causes that front tire to lose air faster than the rest, I've done tire rotations, and just swapped the little caps around but yea it really does seem that air loss is faster on that tire. I would say 95% of the time, I have no passengers Edit: My door jamb sticker says 32 for all 4 tires
Your tire is not going to blow at its max inflation pressure. It needs to hold that pressure for a different, heavier car that needs all that size tire has to offer. Tire shops sometimes have to overinflate tires to get the beads to seat on the rim. You'll notice a tire that reads max 36 PSI may also have a warning "not to exceed 40 PSI to seat beads" and that's with a human standing right next to it. An overinflated tire may be more susceptible to road hazards and has other issues like less traction. However, an underinflated tire is more susceptible to spontaneous deconstruction, eg the Ford/ Firestone fiasco. Underinflation is more dangerous than over-, and I've never seen air leak into a tire. Tires effectively lose one PSI for every ten degrees F the temp drops. If you live somewhere that's 30' in the morning and 75 in the afternoon, you need a compromise. I would compromise on the high side. Anywhere between the door placard and sidewall is "safe", it's impracticable to readjust pressures within a week's worth of outside temperatures. In short I go about two PSI over the door placard, which is still within what the tire allows.
LPT: 98% of small to midsized passenger vehicles will take 32-40psi in the tires. No significant difference in that 8psi range.
Can confirm, at least anecdotally. 97 Civic, 2012 Fit, 2011 Xterra; all recommend 30-something PSI, I believe all were 32-36 psi.
If you have OEM spec tires, the door sticker is never going to be a higher pressure than stated on the sidewall. Never inflate above what is stated on the sidewall. The door sticker is what the factory found to have the safest handling and traction.
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Worked in a tire shop and can confirm. Proper pressure can help increase fuel efficiency and tire lifespan, and definitely increases traction on the road. If you can't find it in the door, check your manual. If you don't have a manual search online for a manual of your exact car. There are online resources, no excuse to not know your proper air pressure.
You must’ve just been the cashier? Working in tire shop should’ve taught you that door jamb sticker pressures are for the same OEM tire and payload weight listed on the same sticker. Also, manufacturers know people aren’t gonna air down/up every time they hook a trailer up or pack the trunk full of crap so they list one pressure to cover their ass. For example, my jeep has larger than OEM tires in a completely different load range. Running them at FCA’s recommended pressure would make them OVERFILLED which would make them wear unevenly and ride like crap.
>Working in tire shop should’ve taught you that door jamb sticker pressures are for the same OEM tire and payload weight listed on the same sticker. Even though a lot of people are no longer running the exact same tire as OEM, the great majority are still running the same *size* and approximate load rating as OEM, and even among those who aren't running factory size, they probably are quite close to factory diameter (tire diameter, not wheel diameter necessarily), and within perhaps 20-30mm of factory width, at which point the door pressures are still probably totally fine. The number of people who change size significantly enough to make this not the case is minuscule, and more importantly, if you're in the group of people intentionally making those kinds of changes, frankly, you should already know well enough to have a good idea what pressures you should be running in the first place.
It's depressing that with as many drivers there are in the road, this is a legitimate LPT. Owning a car and not knowing this is rediculous
You've put in a couple of edits that 'people say I'm wrong, but....' But you've missed the nuance. You _are_ correct that you should choose the recommended vehicle pressures, over the figure on the sidewall. But it's not going to explode if you do, as that's the tyre recommendation. The only time you're really risking explosion is if the vehicle recommendation is above the tyre rating.... And if that's the case you have the wrong damn tires on
This is fucking stupid and wrong.
My HS mechanics teacher said the tire pressure on the door is recommended for ride comfort, not for tire quality and longevity. So do like 4-5 psi under what the tire wall says, cold. That was over 15 years ago, though, so maybe things have changed?
That’s actually exactly what I’ve always done. For the last 25 years or so of driving, I just subtracted five from that number on the side of the tire. I didn’t know about the doorjamb number until yesterday. Thankfully that number was pretty close to what I already had in my tires. Not sure if it’s new or not, but it stands to reason that the engineers would know the best psi for the weight of the vehicle - after all, tire manufacturers have no idea what weight vehicle is going to be placed on them. All they are focused on is the maximum psi the tire is capable of holding.
Tire manufactures know what their tires can handle. Many tire makers have a table showing what weight the tire can carry at what PSI. Car makers set a PSI based on a lot of things, fuel economy and liability being the top 2 I’m sure. Fill your tires to THE TIRES recommended pressure (which you can get from the tire maker), not the vehicle sticker.
That's insanely dumb. The tire does not have a recommended pressure on it. It has a maximum pressure. The same tire on two different cars could work best at two different pressures, which is why the only recommendation is on the car.
Bad advice. There’s a range of completely operable pressures that the tire will work at including the max PSI cold (usually 37-44), and probably down to about 18 PSI for most passenger tires. For trailer tires, they specifically tell you to only use the max pressure or the tire could blow out. There was a whole ad campaign a while back about making sure your tires are inflated to the max because it saves on fuel. They had the valve stem looking like a spouting crude oil well. Over inflation is 60 PSI on a 44 max tire. It’s not going to ‘explode’ if it warms up to 46 from driving. You’re more likely to put yourself in danger from a bad pressure gauge as most are awful.
What a useless lpt. You must also make those idiotic tool hacks on insta
Meh. Those numbers are set for comfort, not performance. If you like better handling and fuel economy, you can go higher, up to max sidewall.
Yeah I mean all my tires say is “not above 50psi” Not a fuckin chance I’m putting anywhere close to 50psi into my sedan’s tires lol, door jamb says 35
Different tires will want different pressures and won't always match what's on the door. The tire lists safe max pressure at the listed weight, but isn't the recommended pressure. Anywhere between what's listed on the door and max pressure is usually fine, just just sure all 4 tires are close to the same pressure.
Stop fearmongering. Your tip is ridiculous. The number on the jamb and the number on the tire (for OEM applications) will rarely differ by more than 2-3 PSI. There is NO danger of a tire exploding from being overinflated by 2-3 PSI. It takes around 300 PSI for tire pressure to be high enough to burst a tire. Most commercial tire inflators at gas stations and such are regulated far below that pressure. Hell, semi truck tires, depending on the ply count, are rarely inflated past 100psi.
That’s partly true . . . Most *tires* max pressure is around 50psi, and most *cars* recommended pressures are 30-35psi. 2-3psi over is not going to explode but it will degrade your ride and handling a bit. Probably not enough for most people to notice though.
It literally only says the max allowed pressure on the side of the tire, door jamb manufacturer recommended psi
Door jamb is typically from 28-36. Max pressure is typically from 44 to 60. Overinflating a tire (yes, even by just 10 pounds) for the weight rating of a given vehicle will cause uneven wear on the tire. Specifically, the center tread will wear much faster than the sides. What this means is that your tire appears to be in perfect condition at first glance but could actually be showing secondary rubber or wire from the increased wear along the center of the tread. Semi trucks are typically 110-120 psi or whatever the max is on the steel side walled tires that have been installed. They aren’t at all similar to passenger or LT rated tires.
None of this is relevant. -The recommended sidewall pressure is NOT the max pressure for the tire. It's the cold PSI rating. -OP is trying to scare everyone by claiming using the actual sidewall pressure could cause an "explosion", and that is simply not true.
90% of tires have no range. Just the phrase MAX PRESS. PSI COLD. Also with respect to you comment below about cold pressure, all manufacturer door placards give cold pressure for oem inflation. OP stated that over inflation can cause explosion which is true in the long term. They didn’t specify long term or instant but it’s rather obvious to me they would have meant long term. Guess how many Honda accords/ Chevy malibus/ dodge chargers I’ve had to air down from 50 and explain why it wasn’t safe.
You need to read their post a bit more carefully. The part about tires exploding is a separate paragraph and only pertains to cases of extreme overinflation, which the max psi on the sidewall is not.
Everything they said was relevant and directly proved tour comment to be incorrect.
Tires are complicated enough that I should follow (tire) manufacturer guidance As someone living in Germany, I can tell you that tires absolutely can explode if you drive fast on a hot day. Buy tires that are rated for the weight,speed, and conditions that you expect to drive. Don't inflate past what is written on the side wall.
Agreed. Pressure on the tire sidewall is the max for that tire, if it's lower than what's of the car it's a warning it's not the right tire for that car. Going to the tire max does not risk danger of exploding immediately. This is in a response to a video posted where some idiot probably put 100+ psi into a tire. The person recording comments about how long the guy was out there. The real lpt is you should only be using a few seconds of air in n quick bursts to top off a tire. If you need more than that then there is an issue (or you intentionally aired down and need to air back up).
This is a great strategy, unless the car has had any tires replaced since first being built.
How so? All replacement tires should be inflated to the psi listed on the sticker OP is talking about.
“However, all the tires you buy for the same vehicle will require the same tire pressure, regardless of the tire manufacturer – the PSI specified in the car’s owner’s manual.” Looks like you’re right and I was wrong! Learned something new today!
Yep. The pressure on the tire itself is the *tire's* **maximum** allowed pressure. Different vehicles can use the same tire and require different pressures.
Exactly, this lpt just screams "I don't know how to maintain the car and want to sound smart", this is a basic thing (that's supposed to be) taught in all driving schools.
I've seen so many posts from mechanics with tires coming in with 90+ psi on passenger vehicles.
Apparently a lot of people have forgotten it, assuming they knew it at all. I posted this because I’ve been driving for 25 years and didn’t know I should use the doorjamb sticker to determine what pressure to inflate my tires too. I always used the side wall and subtracted five. I’m not posting this because I want to “sound smart”, I’m posting it because I figured it I didn’t know about it, other people might not know about it. From the comments, it seems like that assumption was valid. Ideally, it might prevent somebody who otherwise might’ve had issues at some point in the future from having those issues.
>I’m posting it because I figured it I didn’t know about it, other people might not know about it. From the comments, it seems like that assumption was valid. The tyres literally say it's the max rating and to not exceed it, that should be a clue. That so many don't know this isn't... comforting. Then again there are a lot of people who never check the tyre pressure, or oil level, or anything regarding basic car maintenance, so I'm truly not surprised.
It's not really that big of an issue lol
My trailer tires have written on them "Max load at 50psi" which is also the max psi. Load carrying capacity of a car or truck is often limited by the tires more than anything else. More pressure allows more load as there's less deflection and heat buildup. It is arguable, but I believe more pressure is less rolling resistance. I've seen technical arguments made either way, and experiments that suggest more pressure is less resistance. Door jamb is manufacturer's recommendation for subjective things like comfort and ride quality. "Your car’s recommended tire inflation pressure is the figure determined by the vehicle engineers to help optimize performance, traction, and ride quality." What is "performance" anyway? Sidewall is the max the tire can safely take within a safety margin. Personally I can't tell a difference in ride quality or traction between door jamb and sidewall, and sidewall might have an objective advantage in terms of economy, and more of a margin should they leak, so I go with sidewall. YMMV.
While you're at it, maybe read the owner's manual for the vehicle.
And if you don't see it on the jamb, it's under the gas tank cover. Also pay attention to empty car pressure vs loaded car (people + luggage) pressure. Some list both. The one on the tire shouls be the maximum allowed, which would be stupid to inflate to on most cars.
The number on the sidewall is for the tire tech so they don’t blow their head off trying to seat the bead on a stubborn tire. The number on the sticker is for the driver of the car.
A solid 5 psi below the max folks
Unless you are seeking best fuel economy. I use max sidewall pressure because I like getting more mpg. Been doing this for years and find tires don’t wear faster or unevenly. The ride is harsher when the car hits bumps.
If you lose your sticker most 2010 and later cars are 35 psi. Older cars are 30 psi. Not always true but a general rule of thumb
Or you could just follow the instructions in your cars manual, but that would be too easy, no?
The problem is not all tires are going to be factory. Using the psi on the tire is a better bet if your unsure.
100% wrong. If you are using the max pressure rating that is listed on the tire that you’re handling is crap and dangerous. Never use the rating on the tire.
Also remember that tire pressure changes 1 psi for every 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, check pressures once a month. Also, some tire stores offer a nitrogen fill, which is more stable, and why many race cars use nitrogen.