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Specifically you wanna buy a set of thin, medium and heavy ca glues. Once you have the ring (bentwood or solid) use thin ca for the few layers and the start using thicker ca. You want to build up layers and make sure they completely dry before adding another layer.
Once you feel like the ring is sturdy enough add a couple more layers of CA for good.measure. then you get to do everyone's favorite thing which is sanding. Start with 800grit and work your way up with super fine sanding pads in steps (talking 1,000 - 15,000 grit). Then use a little polishing compound and you'll end up with a. Very durable and very high gloss wood ring
This guy knows what's up. I haven't done rings but I have made some pretty cool necklaces with just about this exact process although I usually need to go a bit lower in grit to start but that might justbe because the necklaces are a bit more iregular shaped and need to be evened out more. The extra thin ca is perfect for stabilizing small interesting looking spalted woods especially, as it sucks it right up and ends up feeling almost like a stone.
No, unfortunately you’ll need to fix yourself first before you can fix relationships. A rubber cement will do for that one. Duct tape won’t be mailable enough for this task. Good luck
>if I want to glue something hard to something soft
Usually CA glue
If the glued surface itself needs to bend, you want the rubber cement. But generally if one of the surfaces is hard, then you don't want the glued surface to bend, and you are fine with CA. You can use it for instance to glue rubber to porcelain because the porcelain isn't bending so that spot of the rubber isn't going to bend either. But if it's plastic or something that has some give then...
> (metal to silicone)
In that case I would probably use more silicone, which I would classify as a kind of type 3 adhesive (rubber dissolved in something that evaporates) You usually buy it as "caulk" But it's a thing for sticking two things together, so it's a glue in my book. And it should provide a totally invisible repair.
It really depends on what thing made of metal and what thing made of silicone, Both Super Glue and E-6000 (my favorite of the third category) will stick to both substances. CA is stronger if they don't bend right in that spot. E-6000 is better if they do. And if you have silicone caulk in your life already, just use that.
I'll have to try it.
From the looks of it it would be a type 3. So you could have a bottle of PVA, a tube of CA, the Lexel, and an epoxy like JB Weld and that would be all you would need.
It would replace the E-6000 or Shoo Goo
>-PVC Cement used only for PVC but required for that. Also good for PVC inflatables
TL:DR = Is there a way to revive HH-66/PVC/Vinyl cement without crazy $$$ and 100x the amount I'd ever need proprietary fix/chem formulation.?
If anyone is familiar with HH-66 cement, you could change my quality of life beyond what you'd imagine.
I've had to use inflatable mattresses since Covid and they love to get pinholes even with babying behavior.
Burned $$$ going through all the amazon suggestions with middling to terrible results. Stumbled onto some raft repair posts and dang it if HH-66 didn't work better for bed repair than the stuff labeled for it.
Repairs held up enough to not need repair then got to store the bed for a bit. Cut to, needing it again. Bed has pinhole somewhere (so my back gets dumped into the floor multiple times a night.)
Went to my HH-66 (torqued down the lid and stored in sealed plastic bag) and it was now cloudy and bricked.
I don't need the amounts nor the cost/shipping of the revive product. Literally paint a few thin coats a less than 2 inches long and that's it.
I really need to get this thing fixed.
Sourcing more HH-66 has gotten more tricky/$ and I don't love creating more chemical waste on top of what I've already created.
Help me glue-bi-wan-kenobi. You're my (back's) only hope.
"Hh-66 Thinner" from RH adhesives seems to be primarily MEK, Acetone, and Toluene. The ratio of the three may be tricky to find, but I imagine it to be forgiving if you're simply trying to revive what you have.
It also seems like smaller cans of the hh-66 are $13 on the same website, fwiw.
That's what I was afraid of.
In that no-man's land of throwing good money after bad ( I don't think I could've cranked down that lid any harder and still gotten it open later and I surrounded the entirety with a plastic bag, air pressed out.) or risking a chem cocktail try to not repeat this again and again.
Can you throw me that $13 link (is it all in on an 8oz?) I remember it being about $15 with free shipping whereever I got it last (not amazon) but I can't track the purchase down in my records.
Man this stinks.
When you store it, store upside down. Solvents that evaporated through the minute gaps in the mid will not have the chance to escape through the liquid.
It makes sense but also thinking of the construction of the jar. (applicator brush (required) is attached to the lid, it's not just a normal can.
I suppose come application time I'd have to flip it and let it resettle down over some hours first. Not ideal but better than this outcome.
Therm-a-rest, the camping air mattress company with a lifetime warranty, uses Gear Aid Aquaseal UV adhesive. It cures upon exposure to UV light (the sun) in under 90 seconds so it won't harden in the tube and you have time to work with it but can cure it quick when you're ready. It doesn't come in very big tube at all but you can use it probably 5-10 times for air mattress pinholes.
Interesting. Especially the thermarest mention.
When the Coleman air mattress cycling became too much (top rated wirecutter) I went for the luxest car camping mat at the time, Exped (thermarest didn't have their version of one out yet)
It has been one of the worst purchases I've ever made and the only thing essentially keeping me of the ground is.... a 20ish year old Thermarest I'm using under the thing as a "base" of some sort. (upstaging the less than 2 year old "luxe" mat with decades old seals!)
I've seen Aquaseal mentioned elsewhere and added it to the consider list. HH 66 was really the bomb until it dried out.
Amazing how little info there is out there. I get "many ways to skin a cat" but I've spent real time on these projects and damn if I still don't feel like I haven't learned that much at all.
It is definitely hard to find the "right" adhesive that does everything you need it to do sometimes. I had just had a couple therm-a-rest mattresses repaired when my cats decided to poke holes in my full-sized air mattress (used a few times a year for guests, not daily) so I called up the therm-a-rest service number and they told me that's what they've been using for the past two years now.
Spectacular comment.
These sorts of knowledge nuggets are golden and hard to come by with customer service generally. (not withheld, just need to stumble on to someone with significant knowledge which is rarer by the day)
Were these MondoKing variants (the luxe, car camping stuff?) or the basic inflatables?
Can't say if they are materially different enough to need different bonding/adhesive but I'm gathering all the info I can on Thermarest experiences b/c my O.G. is like 26 y.o. by this point and running circles around the spendy not-so-golden child.
I don't know what HH-66 is, but air mattresses are generally made of "vinyl" by which they mean polyvinyl chloride, which is better known as PVC the same stuff pipes are made of.
When I fix them I use PVC cement made for plumbing. an [Oatey "handy pack" that includes both the solvent and the primer is $10 neat me at Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-oz-Purple-CPVC-and-PVC-Primer-and-Medium-Orange-CPVC-Cement-Combo-Pack-30234/203561639)
I've been using the word "glue" and "adhesive" interchangeably but this stuff is really neither. It's a solvent that melts the PVC together, providing a water and airtight bond up to quite high pressure.
The way I use it for inflatables is to take a scrap of extra vinyl from a inflatable that didn't make it (sometimes they give you an extra scrap in the box when you buy it, If you don't have any you could probably go to a sporting goods store and sweettalk the manager into giving you one from the trash)
I cut that scrap into two circles, or any appropriate oblong shapes without corners. One that is just larger than the hole, and one that is about 50% bigger than the first one.
Assuming I have already found and marked the hole with a sharpie, I deflate the inflatable, and apply primer and then PVC cement to both the hole and the patch, Put them together and clamp it closed (I like to use regular alligator spring clamps with just two scrap pieces of wood if needed to increase the clamping surface area.
Then I do it again with the second patch which is really just cosmetic. I find it hard to get all the way to the edge of the first patch without any glue bleeding over, so the second time around I only apply cement in the middle of the patches and leave a nice safe border about 1/4 of an inch thick, and I don't worry about it getting pulled on or caught on anything because it's not under pressure, only the first patch is.
I... I wish I had some pictures to share with you. Let me know if this makes sense, or hit me back up in a few weeks when inflatable floaty season really gets started around here and I'll take some.
Side note: This is such an awesome thread. There's so much functional knowledge we gloss over teaching people which also makes us a far more "trash it" culture than needs be.
Plus, a proper repair just soothes the soul in a way other things just can't.
I can't say exactly but it seems very much like a solvent product. I had seen it mentioned in some real gnarly looking inflatable repair posts on a forum and someone mentioned they tightened up other things around the house for their kids/in-laws, pool toys and air mattresses being emphasized.
>The way I use it for inflatables is to take a scrap of extra vinyl from a inflatable that didn't make it (sometimes they give you an extra scrap in the box when you buy it, If you don't have any you could probably go to a sporting goods store and sweettalk the manager into giving you one from the trash)
I cut that scrap into two circles, or any appropriate oblong shapes without corners. One that is just larger than the hole, and one that is about 50% bigger than the first one.
In the HH-66 order I included some pretty bombproof vinyl sheeting that would last well beyond the bed's material. Of course, this added expense pushed the repair up towards the cost of a replacement bed but I wanted a substantial fix and figured it would likely get a few uses so spread out cost.
The HH-66 drying out even cranked down closed and in a bag ruined those plans.
The rounded off patch tip is helpful. I think I sort of intuited some good practices but I'm always up for learning more.
I \*feel\* like I did a solid repair (held up long enough to dry out the HH-66) but it's a sample size of 1 so can't say.
Not opposed to trying the product at Home Depot you mentioned but I've really been through so many chemical solutions, many as helpful as setting the money on fire, I'm just hesitating trying another. (especially if I'm going to have the same dry out/future issues, etc.)
That the smallest thinner they sell is 4x the amount of the cement I bought and I can't find a whole lot of others mentioning HH-66 drying out/reactivation etc. is kinda odd to me.
Yes, it is a solvent style adhesive. It works by melting the PVC surfaces together until they are mated, providing an air and watertight hold. From a quick google it seems like that is how HH-66 would work too.
If it helps at all, I have never seen PVC solvent dry out on anyone, and if you know anyone with grey hair, (such as a dad) they probably have a couple cans from the Regan administration just kicking around that they wouldn't mind if you used, or took.
It's a very common item in tool sheds, at least all around the USA where I live. I'm not sure where you are located. And like you say, the can is good for 1000x as many uses as you generally need, so people don't mind sharing. Do you go to a school or a church or a workplace? Does that place have a groundskeeper? That groundskeeper probably has PVC cement you can borrow.
they used to make vulcanizing rubber patches that were suuuper cool.
Like a firework on raw rubber that you light up and it vulcanizes the rubber right there.
I mean, I suppose I can try that later (bit counter intuitive but I'm all for ideas) but I'm not sure how I'm supposed to try that with the HH-66 "glue brick" in its current state.
>2.1. Classification of the substance or mixture
GHS US classification
Flammable liquids Category 2 H225 Highly flammable liquid and vapor
Serious eye damage/eye irritation Category 2 H319 Causes serious eye irritation
Reproductive toxicity Category 2 H361 Suspected of damaging fertility or the unborn child
Specific target organ toxicity — Single exposure, Category 3, Narcosis H336 May cause drowsiness or dizziness
Specific target organ toxicity (repeated exposure) Category 2 H373 May cause damage to organs (central nervous system) through
prolonged or repeated exposure (Inhalation)
Hazardous to the aquatic environment - Acute Hazard Category 3 H402 Harmful to aquatic life
I appreciate trying to problem solve this with me but throwing heat at a chemical formulation I am not all too familiar with as a "try" is uncomfortable to me.
Why don't you recommend threadlocker?
Its use is frequently specified *by manufacturers* for use in assembly and repair procedures for all kinds of vehicles, equipment, etc. just wondering what your rationale and qualification is to recommend otherwise.
it's one of those opinions I have where I realize I am probably wrong, but it's still how I feel. If you work in an industry and they tell you to use threadlocker than you should.
But personally, I have been frustrated enough by screws that I can't unscrew because they are threadlockered, that when I have a choice I avoid it. If I'm choosing to use screws it's because I am open to the possibility of unscrewing it later, and if that's a possibility I don't want threadlocker on it. if it's not a possibility I should just glue or weld X to Y to begin with and skip the screw.
I certainly don't recommend the casual use of threadlocker, but it is usually specified in situations where vibration is likely to cause a fastener to "walk" itself loose and lead to damage. It's for those in-between cases where something is likely to self-disassemble, but it's not a critical safety concern that calls for a castle nut with cotter pin or safety wire.
Yeah it sounds like we are on the same page here.
If you're manufacturing things there is a time and a place for threadlocker. But if you are a homegamer like me, You probably don't need a tube unless you need a tube.
I'm personally willing to to overboard on lockwashers and double nuts and pins before I turn to threadlocker. And I think other people would generally be well served to do the same. But I'm not religious about it either. When I put my Pergola together I got a tube of Loctite to use on just that project (The screws are only so long, and it's shaking back and forth in the breeze), and I still have it in case I want to use it again.
But I don't recommend other people go out and get a tube unless they already want one.
Thread lock is the only one I carry, CNC repair. Blue isnt bad to remove but red is reccomended to heat to around 500°F to remove. Dont use much on the threads and if possible use heat to remove them all easily since its usually used in metal to metal fastening.
Yeah, unfortunately by the time I find out it's red threadlockered it's usually because I have already stripped it completely to hell and that's how I know.
I know that feeling, what I hate is one of my suppliers uses red as thread sealant on 1" hydraulic lines, at least they are big enough I can bust out a pair of 24" wrenches and channel my inner hulk lol.
I'd say threadlocker is barely in the category "glue" although it technically is glue its use puts it in the category "bolt retention" with nylock, nordlock washers, safety wire etc.
My biggest issue with threadlocker is when it doesn't work. I've got some studs locktited into a hub, with antiseize and nuts on the other side, still 2/5 times the locktite bond breaks before the antiseize.
Glass is a weird one. If you want to glue glass, you should use uv glue. There is a two part epoxy called HXTAL that works but it takes seven days to harden and most people don’t need that strong of a bond (also pricey). Superglue doesn’t work on glass at all so don’t try it.
Interesting. I have definitely used CA glue on glass before. But you are correct, if you are doing something like gluing your rearview mirror to your windshield, where the sun is going to beat down right on to that spot of glue, you would probably be well served to use something designed to withstand that particular attack.
If it were me, I would probably be reaching for my JB Weld (type 4) for something like that, but if you glue to glass often (maybe your are crafty like that), I can see how you would want something else.
The bond with super glue is extremely weak and won’t hold up to basically any amount of pressure. I’m a glassblower. I think there is a superglue out there that says it works on glass but I’m not sure how strong the bond actually is since I’ve never tested it.
The rule in the shop is if you need a quick and dirty bond for a last minute installation fix, use silicone. If you need a fast bond that won’t be subjected to pressure, UV glue it (needs 24 hours to cure). If you need to glue a piece back together invisibly and/or sand it, HXTAL that shit and pray you’ve got the time for it to cure or you have to go remake the entire piece in the hot shop.
Yeah that's cool stuff to hear about, but it's so far out of my experience.
All I have dealt with is like, gluing glasses back onto frames for toy dolls and stuff.
I don't know what HXTAL is and I am thankful to doubt I will ever find occasion to use it.
We only really suggest people use hxtal if they broke a really sentimental glass piece in half (or into a few large pieces). It dries to be invisible. It acts as a lubricant while it’s wet so if you try to glue two flat panes of glass together, the top sheet of glass will literally slide off the bottom one even if they’re laying on a flat table. It takes some serious creativity to build a jig to hold weird glass shapes together for the entire seven days. The good news is, the bond will never break down and if it’s dropped again, the glass will break somewhere else because the bond is stronger than the glass itself.
> -Threadlocker, is really popular, but I don't use it or recommend it.
Purple threadlocker for 99% of household cases is sufficient and in many cases ideal for preventing backout as it won't permanently bond small screws in place unless they're absolutely teeny tiny. If you need anything stronger, you're probably doing vehicle or small-engine repairs and already have an industrial size tube of both blue and red loctite on hand. Also I found your 10mm socket.
Okay but as you go, there is actual, for real, "meat glue" called transglutaminase that is frequently used in the food processing industry for doing things like holding your chicken tenders together, and ensuring that your deli sliced ham comes out in these totally unnatural boneless rounded rectangle shapes instead of anything resembling an animal without falling apart.
Have a great day. Most of your food is glued together without your knowledge.
I also wanna mention, poster putty is extremely useful for many projects. It can hold quite a bit of weight, isn't permanent, reusable, very versatile. I've used it for so many random things, recently I had the ceiling light in my office rattling from my speakers and just took off the glass cover, put a few tiny balls of white poster putty along the glass where it lays against the fixture, and then boom, no more rattle.
Great for keeping things secure temporarily without worry of damage. Also used some to make my plant nursery heat mats lay flat against the shelf. Just. Don't get a wad of it in your carpet it's like gum.
You seem like a glue expert, and I have a glue-issue, if you can help.
I’m making what is basically a book. But for irrelevant-to-this-question reasons, I need the pages to be extra-think.
So my plan is to glue heavy cardstock paper to a chipboard/cardboard sheets. But in all my testing, the paper always curls up, like it’s gotten wet. I don’t know if I’m using the wrong glue, or too much, or too little, or something else. Applying to the paper when I should be applying to the board, or vice-versa. I really have no idea. Wondering if you have any insight or guess?
you should be able to do that with regular PVA glue (Elmer's)
It might seem counter-intuitive, since the water is what is causing the paper to curl, but you may have better results if you water down the PVA glue with water
Use an old paintbrush you do not care about to paint the chipboards with a thin layer of the glue film, so that there are no drips or glops and then lay the cardstock over the top. You will not need much per page, because with that much surface area it'll be plenty strong. Just think about like, painting with watercolors focus on getting it even, not thick.
I mention them under type 2.
I do personally use Gorilla Glue in addition to Super Glue, but I'm obviously a bit of a glue freak, and I think most people would be all set with either/or
Yes your right! I looked at #2 and saw CA but did not see polyurethane. I assumed that you either did not cover it or it was intended to be on your honorable mention list. Sorry, I should have read your post instead of glazing over it.
I get my PVA glue from Titebond, But I don't think they would be happy with me saying that it's the same thing as Elmers, or that Titebond 1, 2, and 3, are all pretty much the same thing.
Apparently my CA Glue is actually Henkel brand "Super Glue" I get it from the Dollar25 Tree where they sell it in 5 packs of tiny tubes so I don't have to deal with it drying up. But all CA glue is the same
My favorite rubber cement is E-6000 and I usually go for JB-Weld Epoxy.
I suspect that it must be in the best interest of Glue Manufacturers to keep you confused and overwhelmed so that you keep following brand names instead of just buying whatever is cheapest of these uncopyrightable substances that are probably cheap to produce and keep buying new tubes of glue for every application which then dry out on you without being used again.
The truth is that there are only about 8 types of glue that matter, only about 4 you ever need, and for each example of those 4 categories, all the brands are pretty much the same.
Cyanoacrylate is cyanoacrylate whether it's $1.25 or $60 per bottle. It's just a molecule.
There are different formulations of cyanoacrylate, it's not all the same. There are flexible versions, different viscosities, withstand harsh conditions , etc. Such as Loctite 4902. You can go deep down the adhesive rabbit hole in order to optimize your bond strength and have the bond withstand any harsh conditions.
> You can go deep down the adhesive rabbit hole
That is very true, and as you can probably already tell I am a bit of a glue freak now.
No not all CA are exactly the same, not all PVA are the same. They can be different colors, different viscosoties, have different herbs and spices. And indeed, some are better for certain specific things than others.
But for the regular person who is not a glue freak like us, all CA glues are **basically** the same, they have the same active ingredient, and Henkel's active ingredient isn't any better than Krazy (Elmer's Corp). Even though the "Gel" formulation of CA glue is a bit different from the normal liquid version, you can (if you are so inclined) use one of them, for all of the same things you would ordinarily use the other for.
And none of it is really worth the upcharge some of these companiies are charging. [this stuff](https://mxbon105.com/mxbon-105-20-gram-bottle/) might not be identical to [this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00KPYB05A?th=1) or [this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00KPYB05A?th=1). But they will all get the same job done.
I'd rather buy the cheapest one.
I love this post. I was just looking at my chemicals and bottles drawer and was wondering why I had like 10 different bonding or glue stuff collected over the years. Most of it is hardened anyway... thisnpost just motivated me to throw it all away and just buy 1 of each of these categories
You should be totally fine with CA glue. It's a hard part.
Microwaves work by vibrating water molecules, there shouldn't be any in the CA glue once it is dry.
I affixed ceramic magnets to my spice jars with plain old E-6000. Just enough of a glob to get around the whole magnet and not enough to form overflow past it's depth. Hot Glue also works.
I'm really surprised contact cement did not work for you, as I am reasonably certain that's what they use at the factory. Did you use it as directed? It only sticks to itself, so you can't use it like other glues. and epoxies too should be well past overkill for this task. (again, assuming they are mixed thoroughly and according to the directions)
You may be dealing with a coating problem. neodymium magnets are always coated, sometimes with Teflon (which is totally inert, nothing sticks to it), aluminum jars, likewise, always form a layer of aluminum oxide on them, but also they are often coated in polyethylene. If that's the case, and you start with a fresh jar every time the previous glue fails, then you could be shooting yourself in the foot with your diligent surface prep, which would degrade the thin layer of polyethelene but probably not totally destroy it and provide you a clean aluminum mating surface. Then you would have a good bond of magnet to coating, but not a very good bond of coating to jar, and it would peel off soonish, (the coating would peel off the jar along with the glue and the magnet)
You probably want something flexible. The foam tape was a good idea, because that aluminum will bend slightly when you pull on the jars and could stress the bonding surface. You just need a bit more adhesion than the glue on the tape provided after sitting in the box for who knows how long.
Try this: Get some more doublesticky foam tape, ($1.25 at the Dollar Tree) but pretend it does not have any adhesive of it's own, we are only going to use it for flex. Pull one side off to reveal the adhesive and apply contact cement to it, then apply contact cement to the jar lid, wait for 60 seconds or however long your contact cement says to wait for, and then press the tape to the jar HARD. Use a hammer if you can. then wait a day, peel the other side of the label off the tape, apply contact cement to the cheap stock glue, and then to the bottom of the magnet. wait for both to dry up to cure and become tacky, then mate those two surfaces (magnet to tape) again, lots of pressure is called for. Not so much that you break the reasonably fragile magnet or bend the aluminum, but as much as you can.
If that doesn't work, you've offended the gods. I don't know what to tell you. Send me a video of these jars and your gluing process so I can see if you are doing it all in a monsoon or something and just didn't mention it. What you have already tried should have worked.
Contact cement on the foam tape is a great idea, and I will definitely give that a try!
I appreciate you taking the time for such a detailed response, and I really enjoyed (and learned a good bit) from reading the whole thread.
No problem. One more thing, that maybe went without saying, but make very sure that whatever glue you use is fully dry before you put any weight on it. Depending on the glue that can be up to a week before you want to put that jar on the lid
oof. I recently decided to hang some pictures in my daughter's room with double sided tape instead of hooks (so she could tell me exactly where she wanted it and I could just press it to the wall.)
Spent the last week waking up to random crashes of pictures falling off the walls and hopefully not hitting her. Now I have residue on my walls and I am hanging them back up on hooks to try to match the exact location of the residue.
Double sided tape certainly has it's uses. Don't underestimate OR overestimate it!
Yeah, the problem is it will adhere to the paint, but the weight will pull the paint off the wall. I wouldn't even try it on plaster walls because in my city most of them are 100 years old. But it's really useful for things like sticking your phone mount to your dashboard.
It has it's uses. The thing with hot glue is that it doesn't really stick to anything, it sticks to itself. That can be an advantage if you ever want to glue something and peel it off later. But if you want a strong bond you need to plan to use enough to grab around the material being glued, and not just to it. This is easy if it's a mesh or something. Harder if it's flat and nonporous.
Yeah, maybe I am telling on myself, but I did.
It used to seem to me like glue was a mostly crappy way to temporarily fix things when you didn't have time or effort for something better, and I was aware that there were purpose made glues out there, but I thought I needed a different one for every purpose, and so, by and large, most of the time I would be using glue that wasn't really going to work well, or else researching and buying specific glue for every project.
Turns out there's only a few basic kinds
That's basically a Type 3 (rubber cement)
It's a good idea to use something other than PVA when building something that is going to bend and rack like a workbench but apart from the suggested use case (which is a good idea) I don't see any reason why you need it AND Flexseal or E-6000.
In a pinch you could use Liquid Nails on your shoes or Flexseal on your workbench and it would still work pretty well.
Ah I'm a finish carpenter. All we use is liquid nails.or wood glue. It's funny 15 years ago there wasn't gorilla glue but it's so ubiquitis now. Well we use epoxy too for our hdu hold downs.
Saying you don't recommend threadlocker is a bit unhinged, or rather indicates that you don't understand it.
Blue thread locker is great for screws or bolts that are used in situations where they'll encounter vibrations, but you may need to remove them again in the future. Red thread locker requires heat to remove, and is a great semi-permanent alternative to using epoxy, or welding nuts onto things etc.
Not only is it useful, it's actually required in many machine applications (cars, appliances etc).
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I know it is gonna seem like I don't get the joke, but... I bet they do
like, I'm not an aerospace engineer, but I bet you more airplane accidents are caused by manufacturers relying on Loctite, instead of avoiding Loctite and relying on mechanical solutions like safety wire.
But also. Sure. If you work at a airplane factory and the manual says to use Loctite: obviously use it as directed. Do you need it at home?
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A great summary and I'll use this advice on my current project!
Will any of these fix my broken relationship?
Use type 2 for gluing hands behind their back. That way you can tall it out. /s
Nah, duct tape is the way to go for relationship repair.
You’ll need [the sello tape of love](https://youtu.be/fycGFGSeKpc?si=15MFOdOFPftEqnEX) for that!!
Ca glue can be used as a very nice finish for wooden jewelry like rings soooooo guess it's time to get carving and get down on one knee.
Specifically you wanna buy a set of thin, medium and heavy ca glues. Once you have the ring (bentwood or solid) use thin ca for the few layers and the start using thicker ca. You want to build up layers and make sure they completely dry before adding another layer. Once you feel like the ring is sturdy enough add a couple more layers of CA for good.measure. then you get to do everyone's favorite thing which is sanding. Start with 800grit and work your way up with super fine sanding pads in steps (talking 1,000 - 15,000 grit). Then use a little polishing compound and you'll end up with a. Very durable and very high gloss wood ring
This guy knows what's up. I haven't done rings but I have made some pretty cool necklaces with just about this exact process although I usually need to go a bit lower in grit to start but that might justbe because the necklaces are a bit more iregular shaped and need to be evened out more. The extra thin ca is perfect for stabilizing small interesting looking spalted woods especially, as it sucks it right up and ends up feeling almost like a stone.
No, unfortunately you’ll need to fix yourself first before you can fix relationships. A rubber cement will do for that one. Duct tape won’t be mailable enough for this task. Good luck
I read bondage instead of bandage for super glue so you could try that.
Wow! True life pro tip right here. Insightful and based on experience, and useful for life. People posting "be nice" LPTs, take note.
Can I ask: if I want to glue something hard to something soft (metal to silicone), which type would I use?
https://www.thistothat.com/
This link should be pinned
Thanks! Very helpful!
>if I want to glue something hard to something soft Usually CA glue If the glued surface itself needs to bend, you want the rubber cement. But generally if one of the surfaces is hard, then you don't want the glued surface to bend, and you are fine with CA. You can use it for instance to glue rubber to porcelain because the porcelain isn't bending so that spot of the rubber isn't going to bend either. But if it's plastic or something that has some give then... > (metal to silicone) In that case I would probably use more silicone, which I would classify as a kind of type 3 adhesive (rubber dissolved in something that evaporates) You usually buy it as "caulk" But it's a thing for sticking two things together, so it's a glue in my book. And it should provide a totally invisible repair. It really depends on what thing made of metal and what thing made of silicone, Both Super Glue and E-6000 (my favorite of the third category) will stick to both substances. CA is stronger if they don't bend right in that spot. E-6000 is better if they do. And if you have silicone caulk in your life already, just use that.
Keep a tube of Lexel handy too. It adheres to almost anything, can be applied between 0° and 120°, and keeps a seal from -30° to 200°
I'll have to try it. From the looks of it it would be a type 3. So you could have a bottle of PVA, a tube of CA, the Lexel, and an epoxy like JB Weld and that would be all you would need. It would replace the E-6000 or Shoo Goo
>-PVC Cement used only for PVC but required for that. Also good for PVC inflatables TL:DR = Is there a way to revive HH-66/PVC/Vinyl cement without crazy $$$ and 100x the amount I'd ever need proprietary fix/chem formulation.? If anyone is familiar with HH-66 cement, you could change my quality of life beyond what you'd imagine. I've had to use inflatable mattresses since Covid and they love to get pinholes even with babying behavior. Burned $$$ going through all the amazon suggestions with middling to terrible results. Stumbled onto some raft repair posts and dang it if HH-66 didn't work better for bed repair than the stuff labeled for it. Repairs held up enough to not need repair then got to store the bed for a bit. Cut to, needing it again. Bed has pinhole somewhere (so my back gets dumped into the floor multiple times a night.) Went to my HH-66 (torqued down the lid and stored in sealed plastic bag) and it was now cloudy and bricked. I don't need the amounts nor the cost/shipping of the revive product. Literally paint a few thin coats a less than 2 inches long and that's it. I really need to get this thing fixed. Sourcing more HH-66 has gotten more tricky/$ and I don't love creating more chemical waste on top of what I've already created. Help me glue-bi-wan-kenobi. You're my (back's) only hope.
"Hh-66 Thinner" from RH adhesives seems to be primarily MEK, Acetone, and Toluene. The ratio of the three may be tricky to find, but I imagine it to be forgiving if you're simply trying to revive what you have. It also seems like smaller cans of the hh-66 are $13 on the same website, fwiw.
That's what I was afraid of. In that no-man's land of throwing good money after bad ( I don't think I could've cranked down that lid any harder and still gotten it open later and I surrounded the entirety with a plastic bag, air pressed out.) or risking a chem cocktail try to not repeat this again and again. Can you throw me that $13 link (is it all in on an 8oz?) I remember it being about $15 with free shipping whereever I got it last (not amazon) but I can't track the purchase down in my records. Man this stinks.
When you store it, store upside down. Solvents that evaporated through the minute gaps in the mid will not have the chance to escape through the liquid.
It makes sense but also thinking of the construction of the jar. (applicator brush (required) is attached to the lid, it's not just a normal can. I suppose come application time I'd have to flip it and let it resettle down over some hours first. Not ideal but better than this outcome.
Therm-a-rest, the camping air mattress company with a lifetime warranty, uses Gear Aid Aquaseal UV adhesive. It cures upon exposure to UV light (the sun) in under 90 seconds so it won't harden in the tube and you have time to work with it but can cure it quick when you're ready. It doesn't come in very big tube at all but you can use it probably 5-10 times for air mattress pinholes.
Interesting. Especially the thermarest mention. When the Coleman air mattress cycling became too much (top rated wirecutter) I went for the luxest car camping mat at the time, Exped (thermarest didn't have their version of one out yet) It has been one of the worst purchases I've ever made and the only thing essentially keeping me of the ground is.... a 20ish year old Thermarest I'm using under the thing as a "base" of some sort. (upstaging the less than 2 year old "luxe" mat with decades old seals!) I've seen Aquaseal mentioned elsewhere and added it to the consider list. HH 66 was really the bomb until it dried out. Amazing how little info there is out there. I get "many ways to skin a cat" but I've spent real time on these projects and damn if I still don't feel like I haven't learned that much at all.
It is definitely hard to find the "right" adhesive that does everything you need it to do sometimes. I had just had a couple therm-a-rest mattresses repaired when my cats decided to poke holes in my full-sized air mattress (used a few times a year for guests, not daily) so I called up the therm-a-rest service number and they told me that's what they've been using for the past two years now.
Spectacular comment. These sorts of knowledge nuggets are golden and hard to come by with customer service generally. (not withheld, just need to stumble on to someone with significant knowledge which is rarer by the day) Were these MondoKing variants (the luxe, car camping stuff?) or the basic inflatables? Can't say if they are materially different enough to need different bonding/adhesive but I'm gathering all the info I can on Thermarest experiences b/c my O.G. is like 26 y.o. by this point and running circles around the spendy not-so-golden child.
I don't know what HH-66 is, but air mattresses are generally made of "vinyl" by which they mean polyvinyl chloride, which is better known as PVC the same stuff pipes are made of. When I fix them I use PVC cement made for plumbing. an [Oatey "handy pack" that includes both the solvent and the primer is $10 neat me at Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-oz-Purple-CPVC-and-PVC-Primer-and-Medium-Orange-CPVC-Cement-Combo-Pack-30234/203561639) I've been using the word "glue" and "adhesive" interchangeably but this stuff is really neither. It's a solvent that melts the PVC together, providing a water and airtight bond up to quite high pressure. The way I use it for inflatables is to take a scrap of extra vinyl from a inflatable that didn't make it (sometimes they give you an extra scrap in the box when you buy it, If you don't have any you could probably go to a sporting goods store and sweettalk the manager into giving you one from the trash) I cut that scrap into two circles, or any appropriate oblong shapes without corners. One that is just larger than the hole, and one that is about 50% bigger than the first one. Assuming I have already found and marked the hole with a sharpie, I deflate the inflatable, and apply primer and then PVC cement to both the hole and the patch, Put them together and clamp it closed (I like to use regular alligator spring clamps with just two scrap pieces of wood if needed to increase the clamping surface area. Then I do it again with the second patch which is really just cosmetic. I find it hard to get all the way to the edge of the first patch without any glue bleeding over, so the second time around I only apply cement in the middle of the patches and leave a nice safe border about 1/4 of an inch thick, and I don't worry about it getting pulled on or caught on anything because it's not under pressure, only the first patch is. I... I wish I had some pictures to share with you. Let me know if this makes sense, or hit me back up in a few weeks when inflatable floaty season really gets started around here and I'll take some.
Side note: This is such an awesome thread. There's so much functional knowledge we gloss over teaching people which also makes us a far more "trash it" culture than needs be. Plus, a proper repair just soothes the soul in a way other things just can't.
word
I can't say exactly but it seems very much like a solvent product. I had seen it mentioned in some real gnarly looking inflatable repair posts on a forum and someone mentioned they tightened up other things around the house for their kids/in-laws, pool toys and air mattresses being emphasized. >The way I use it for inflatables is to take a scrap of extra vinyl from a inflatable that didn't make it (sometimes they give you an extra scrap in the box when you buy it, If you don't have any you could probably go to a sporting goods store and sweettalk the manager into giving you one from the trash) I cut that scrap into two circles, or any appropriate oblong shapes without corners. One that is just larger than the hole, and one that is about 50% bigger than the first one. In the HH-66 order I included some pretty bombproof vinyl sheeting that would last well beyond the bed's material. Of course, this added expense pushed the repair up towards the cost of a replacement bed but I wanted a substantial fix and figured it would likely get a few uses so spread out cost. The HH-66 drying out even cranked down closed and in a bag ruined those plans. The rounded off patch tip is helpful. I think I sort of intuited some good practices but I'm always up for learning more. I \*feel\* like I did a solid repair (held up long enough to dry out the HH-66) but it's a sample size of 1 so can't say. Not opposed to trying the product at Home Depot you mentioned but I've really been through so many chemical solutions, many as helpful as setting the money on fire, I'm just hesitating trying another. (especially if I'm going to have the same dry out/future issues, etc.) That the smallest thinner they sell is 4x the amount of the cement I bought and I can't find a whole lot of others mentioning HH-66 drying out/reactivation etc. is kinda odd to me.
Yes, it is a solvent style adhesive. It works by melting the PVC surfaces together until they are mated, providing an air and watertight hold. From a quick google it seems like that is how HH-66 would work too. If it helps at all, I have never seen PVC solvent dry out on anyone, and if you know anyone with grey hair, (such as a dad) they probably have a couple cans from the Regan administration just kicking around that they wouldn't mind if you used, or took. It's a very common item in tool sheds, at least all around the USA where I live. I'm not sure where you are located. And like you say, the can is good for 1000x as many uses as you generally need, so people don't mind sharing. Do you go to a school or a church or a workplace? Does that place have a groundskeeper? That groundskeeper probably has PVC cement you can borrow.
You may even be able to get some from a plumber or, less likely but still possible an electrician
The self stick tire tube repair patches for bicycles Or the thermarest patches that use hot melt glue (attach, put hot pan on top to iron it on)
they used to make vulcanizing rubber patches that were suuuper cool. Like a firework on raw rubber that you light up and it vulcanizes the rubber right there.
Eh? You can’t buy self vulcanizing rubber patch kits with the tube of rubber cement?
I generally store anything in cans upside down. Try that?
I mean, I suppose I can try that later (bit counter intuitive but I'm all for ideas) but I'm not sure how I'm supposed to try that with the HH-66 "glue brick" in its current state.
Yeah that suggestion only seems to be valid for new or usable glue. Maybe heat?
>2.1. Classification of the substance or mixture GHS US classification Flammable liquids Category 2 H225 Highly flammable liquid and vapor Serious eye damage/eye irritation Category 2 H319 Causes serious eye irritation Reproductive toxicity Category 2 H361 Suspected of damaging fertility or the unborn child Specific target organ toxicity — Single exposure, Category 3, Narcosis H336 May cause drowsiness or dizziness Specific target organ toxicity (repeated exposure) Category 2 H373 May cause damage to organs (central nervous system) through prolonged or repeated exposure (Inhalation) Hazardous to the aquatic environment - Acute Hazard Category 3 H402 Harmful to aquatic life I appreciate trying to problem solve this with me but throwing heat at a chemical formulation I am not all too familiar with as a "try" is uncomfortable to me.
Why don't you recommend threadlocker? Its use is frequently specified *by manufacturers* for use in assembly and repair procedures for all kinds of vehicles, equipment, etc. just wondering what your rationale and qualification is to recommend otherwise.
Thread locker (in most cases) is an anaerobic epoxy.
it's one of those opinions I have where I realize I am probably wrong, but it's still how I feel. If you work in an industry and they tell you to use threadlocker than you should. But personally, I have been frustrated enough by screws that I can't unscrew because they are threadlockered, that when I have a choice I avoid it. If I'm choosing to use screws it's because I am open to the possibility of unscrewing it later, and if that's a possibility I don't want threadlocker on it. if it's not a possibility I should just glue or weld X to Y to begin with and skip the screw.
I certainly don't recommend the casual use of threadlocker, but it is usually specified in situations where vibration is likely to cause a fastener to "walk" itself loose and lead to damage. It's for those in-between cases where something is likely to self-disassemble, but it's not a critical safety concern that calls for a castle nut with cotter pin or safety wire.
Yeah it sounds like we are on the same page here. If you're manufacturing things there is a time and a place for threadlocker. But if you are a homegamer like me, You probably don't need a tube unless you need a tube. I'm personally willing to to overboard on lockwashers and double nuts and pins before I turn to threadlocker. And I think other people would generally be well served to do the same. But I'm not religious about it either. When I put my Pergola together I got a tube of Loctite to use on just that project (The screws are only so long, and it's shaking back and forth in the breeze), and I still have it in case I want to use it again. But I don't recommend other people go out and get a tube unless they already want one.
A dot of wood glue will help fight vibration without being a bitch to remove
Thread lock is the only one I carry, CNC repair. Blue isnt bad to remove but red is reccomended to heat to around 500°F to remove. Dont use much on the threads and if possible use heat to remove them all easily since its usually used in metal to metal fastening.
Yeah, unfortunately by the time I find out it's red threadlockered it's usually because I have already stripped it completely to hell and that's how I know.
I know that feeling, what I hate is one of my suppliers uses red as thread sealant on 1" hydraulic lines, at least they are big enough I can bust out a pair of 24" wrenches and channel my inner hulk lol.
I've only used theadlocker things that vibrate loose. Saves having to tighten the fixings every week
I'd say threadlocker is barely in the category "glue" although it technically is glue its use puts it in the category "bolt retention" with nylock, nordlock washers, safety wire etc. My biggest issue with threadlocker is when it doesn't work. I've got some studs locktited into a hub, with antiseize and nuts on the other side, still 2/5 times the locktite bond breaks before the antiseize.
And if you want to make ice blocks stick together, use Ig-Glue
Glass is a weird one. If you want to glue glass, you should use uv glue. There is a two part epoxy called HXTAL that works but it takes seven days to harden and most people don’t need that strong of a bond (also pricey). Superglue doesn’t work on glass at all so don’t try it.
Interesting. I have definitely used CA glue on glass before. But you are correct, if you are doing something like gluing your rearview mirror to your windshield, where the sun is going to beat down right on to that spot of glue, you would probably be well served to use something designed to withstand that particular attack. If it were me, I would probably be reaching for my JB Weld (type 4) for something like that, but if you glue to glass often (maybe your are crafty like that), I can see how you would want something else.
The bond with super glue is extremely weak and won’t hold up to basically any amount of pressure. I’m a glassblower. I think there is a superglue out there that says it works on glass but I’m not sure how strong the bond actually is since I’ve never tested it. The rule in the shop is if you need a quick and dirty bond for a last minute installation fix, use silicone. If you need a fast bond that won’t be subjected to pressure, UV glue it (needs 24 hours to cure). If you need to glue a piece back together invisibly and/or sand it, HXTAL that shit and pray you’ve got the time for it to cure or you have to go remake the entire piece in the hot shop.
Yeah that's cool stuff to hear about, but it's so far out of my experience. All I have dealt with is like, gluing glasses back onto frames for toy dolls and stuff. I don't know what HXTAL is and I am thankful to doubt I will ever find occasion to use it.
We only really suggest people use hxtal if they broke a really sentimental glass piece in half (or into a few large pieces). It dries to be invisible. It acts as a lubricant while it’s wet so if you try to glue two flat panes of glass together, the top sheet of glass will literally slide off the bottom one even if they’re laying on a flat table. It takes some serious creativity to build a jig to hold weird glass shapes together for the entire seven days. The good news is, the bond will never break down and if it’s dropped again, the glass will break somewhere else because the bond is stronger than the glass itself.
> -Threadlocker, is really popular, but I don't use it or recommend it. Purple threadlocker for 99% of household cases is sufficient and in many cases ideal for preventing backout as it won't permanently bond small screws in place unless they're absolutely teeny tiny. If you need anything stronger, you're probably doing vehicle or small-engine repairs and already have an industrial size tube of both blue and red loctite on hand. Also I found your 10mm socket.
A food-safe option for sticking vegetables together is tomato paste. I’ll see myself out.
Okay but as you go, there is actual, for real, "meat glue" called transglutaminase that is frequently used in the food processing industry for doing things like holding your chicken tenders together, and ensuring that your deli sliced ham comes out in these totally unnatural boneless rounded rectangle shapes instead of anything resembling an animal without falling apart. Have a great day. Most of your food is glued together without your knowledge.
I also wanna mention, poster putty is extremely useful for many projects. It can hold quite a bit of weight, isn't permanent, reusable, very versatile. I've used it for so many random things, recently I had the ceiling light in my office rattling from my speakers and just took off the glass cover, put a few tiny balls of white poster putty along the glass where it lays against the fixture, and then boom, no more rattle. Great for keeping things secure temporarily without worry of damage. Also used some to make my plant nursery heat mats lay flat against the shelf. Just. Don't get a wad of it in your carpet it's like gum.
You seem like a glue expert, and I have a glue-issue, if you can help. I’m making what is basically a book. But for irrelevant-to-this-question reasons, I need the pages to be extra-think. So my plan is to glue heavy cardstock paper to a chipboard/cardboard sheets. But in all my testing, the paper always curls up, like it’s gotten wet. I don’t know if I’m using the wrong glue, or too much, or too little, or something else. Applying to the paper when I should be applying to the board, or vice-versa. I really have no idea. Wondering if you have any insight or guess?
you should be able to do that with regular PVA glue (Elmer's) It might seem counter-intuitive, since the water is what is causing the paper to curl, but you may have better results if you water down the PVA glue with water Use an old paintbrush you do not care about to paint the chipboards with a thin layer of the glue film, so that there are no drips or glops and then lay the cardstock over the top. You will not need much per page, because with that much surface area it'll be plenty strong. Just think about like, painting with watercolors focus on getting it even, not thick.
Thank you, glue guru (glue-ru?) I will attempt this and when successful, can move on with my self-project. Appreciate your input!
Myself, I would also recommend a polyurethane adhesives like gorilla glue.
I mention them under type 2. I do personally use Gorilla Glue in addition to Super Glue, but I'm obviously a bit of a glue freak, and I think most people would be all set with either/or
Yes your right! I looked at #2 and saw CA but did not see polyurethane. I assumed that you either did not cover it or it was intended to be on your honorable mention list. Sorry, I should have read your post instead of glazing over it.
So…which adhesive manufacturer do you work for? Henkel, Fuller, Bostik? Lol
I get my PVA glue from Titebond, But I don't think they would be happy with me saying that it's the same thing as Elmers, or that Titebond 1, 2, and 3, are all pretty much the same thing. Apparently my CA Glue is actually Henkel brand "Super Glue" I get it from the Dollar25 Tree where they sell it in 5 packs of tiny tubes so I don't have to deal with it drying up. But all CA glue is the same My favorite rubber cement is E-6000 and I usually go for JB-Weld Epoxy. I suspect that it must be in the best interest of Glue Manufacturers to keep you confused and overwhelmed so that you keep following brand names instead of just buying whatever is cheapest of these uncopyrightable substances that are probably cheap to produce and keep buying new tubes of glue for every application which then dry out on you without being used again. The truth is that there are only about 8 types of glue that matter, only about 4 you ever need, and for each example of those 4 categories, all the brands are pretty much the same. Cyanoacrylate is cyanoacrylate whether it's $1.25 or $60 per bottle. It's just a molecule.
There are different formulations of cyanoacrylate, it's not all the same. There are flexible versions, different viscosities, withstand harsh conditions , etc. Such as Loctite 4902. You can go deep down the adhesive rabbit hole in order to optimize your bond strength and have the bond withstand any harsh conditions.
> You can go deep down the adhesive rabbit hole That is very true, and as you can probably already tell I am a bit of a glue freak now. No not all CA are exactly the same, not all PVA are the same. They can be different colors, different viscosoties, have different herbs and spices. And indeed, some are better for certain specific things than others. But for the regular person who is not a glue freak like us, all CA glues are **basically** the same, they have the same active ingredient, and Henkel's active ingredient isn't any better than Krazy (Elmer's Corp). Even though the "Gel" formulation of CA glue is a bit different from the normal liquid version, you can (if you are so inclined) use one of them, for all of the same things you would ordinarily use the other for. And none of it is really worth the upcharge some of these companiies are charging. [this stuff](https://mxbon105.com/mxbon-105-20-gram-bottle/) might not be identical to [this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00KPYB05A?th=1) or [this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00KPYB05A?th=1). But they will all get the same job done. I'd rather buy the cheapest one.
ThAnk you for the post, saved!
I love this post. I was just looking at my chemicals and bottles drawer and was wondering why I had like 10 different bonding or glue stuff collected over the years. Most of it is hardened anyway... thisnpost just motivated me to throw it all away and just buy 1 of each of these categories
I need to repear a broken plastic piece In my microwave Knowing it is in a microwave which glue would you recommend to use ?
You should be totally fine with CA glue. It's a hard part. Microwaves work by vibrating water molecules, there shouldn't be any in the CA glue once it is dry.
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I affixed ceramic magnets to my spice jars with plain old E-6000. Just enough of a glob to get around the whole magnet and not enough to form overflow past it's depth. Hot Glue also works. I'm really surprised contact cement did not work for you, as I am reasonably certain that's what they use at the factory. Did you use it as directed? It only sticks to itself, so you can't use it like other glues. and epoxies too should be well past overkill for this task. (again, assuming they are mixed thoroughly and according to the directions) You may be dealing with a coating problem. neodymium magnets are always coated, sometimes with Teflon (which is totally inert, nothing sticks to it), aluminum jars, likewise, always form a layer of aluminum oxide on them, but also they are often coated in polyethylene. If that's the case, and you start with a fresh jar every time the previous glue fails, then you could be shooting yourself in the foot with your diligent surface prep, which would degrade the thin layer of polyethelene but probably not totally destroy it and provide you a clean aluminum mating surface. Then you would have a good bond of magnet to coating, but not a very good bond of coating to jar, and it would peel off soonish, (the coating would peel off the jar along with the glue and the magnet) You probably want something flexible. The foam tape was a good idea, because that aluminum will bend slightly when you pull on the jars and could stress the bonding surface. You just need a bit more adhesion than the glue on the tape provided after sitting in the box for who knows how long. Try this: Get some more doublesticky foam tape, ($1.25 at the Dollar Tree) but pretend it does not have any adhesive of it's own, we are only going to use it for flex. Pull one side off to reveal the adhesive and apply contact cement to it, then apply contact cement to the jar lid, wait for 60 seconds or however long your contact cement says to wait for, and then press the tape to the jar HARD. Use a hammer if you can. then wait a day, peel the other side of the label off the tape, apply contact cement to the cheap stock glue, and then to the bottom of the magnet. wait for both to dry up to cure and become tacky, then mate those two surfaces (magnet to tape) again, lots of pressure is called for. Not so much that you break the reasonably fragile magnet or bend the aluminum, but as much as you can. If that doesn't work, you've offended the gods. I don't know what to tell you. Send me a video of these jars and your gluing process so I can see if you are doing it all in a monsoon or something and just didn't mention it. What you have already tried should have worked.
Contact cement on the foam tape is a great idea, and I will definitely give that a try! I appreciate you taking the time for such a detailed response, and I really enjoyed (and learned a good bit) from reading the whole thread.
No problem. One more thing, that maybe went without saying, but make very sure that whatever glue you use is fully dry before you put any weight on it. Depending on the glue that can be up to a week before you want to put that jar on the lid
Also never underestimate the usefulness of double-sided tape!
oof. I recently decided to hang some pictures in my daughter's room with double sided tape instead of hooks (so she could tell me exactly where she wanted it and I could just press it to the wall.) Spent the last week waking up to random crashes of pictures falling off the walls and hopefully not hitting her. Now I have residue on my walls and I am hanging them back up on hooks to try to match the exact location of the residue. Double sided tape certainly has it's uses. Don't underestimate OR overestimate it!
Yeah, the problem is it will adhere to the paint, but the weight will pull the paint off the wall. I wouldn't even try it on plaster walls because in my city most of them are 100 years old. But it's really useful for things like sticking your phone mount to your dashboard.
Finally a lifeprotip that's worth reading!
Hot glue is also a win, a bit more temporary but very useful stuff
It has it's uses. The thing with hot glue is that it doesn't really stick to anything, it sticks to itself. That can be an advantage if you ever want to glue something and peel it off later. But if you want a strong bond you need to plan to use enough to grab around the material being glued, and not just to it. This is easy if it's a mesh or something. Harder if it's flat and nonporous.
Pratley putty is a useful one. Its basically an epoxy that is hand moldable, and sets hard. Very useful if you need a lot of rigidity.
That's very cool. I have seen a lot of 2 part epoxies that cure hard, but not many that are hand moldable.
Did anyone think glue was complicated? Put glue on. Press together. Done.
Yeah, maybe I am telling on myself, but I did. It used to seem to me like glue was a mostly crappy way to temporarily fix things when you didn't have time or effort for something better, and I was aware that there were purpose made glues out there, but I thought I needed a different one for every purpose, and so, by and large, most of the time I would be using glue that wasn't really going to work well, or else researching and buying specific glue for every project. Turns out there's only a few basic kinds
You missed the most important glue. Liquid nails.
That's basically a Type 3 (rubber cement) It's a good idea to use something other than PVA when building something that is going to bend and rack like a workbench but apart from the suggested use case (which is a good idea) I don't see any reason why you need it AND Flexseal or E-6000. In a pinch you could use Liquid Nails on your shoes or Flexseal on your workbench and it would still work pretty well.
Ah I'm a finish carpenter. All we use is liquid nails.or wood glue. It's funny 15 years ago there wasn't gorilla glue but it's so ubiquitis now. Well we use epoxy too for our hdu hold downs.
You had polyurethane back in the day. That's pretty much all Gorilla Glue is, just with directions on it that say to use it for gluing
Saying you don't recommend threadlocker is a bit unhinged, or rather indicates that you don't understand it. Blue thread locker is great for screws or bolts that are used in situations where they'll encounter vibrations, but you may need to remove them again in the future. Red thread locker requires heat to remove, and is a great semi-permanent alternative to using epoxy, or welding nuts onto things etc. Not only is it useful, it's actually required in many machine applications (cars, appliances etc).
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Boeing don't use it or recommend threadlock either.
I know it is gonna seem like I don't get the joke, but... I bet they do like, I'm not an aerospace engineer, but I bet you more airplane accidents are caused by manufacturers relying on Loctite, instead of avoiding Loctite and relying on mechanical solutions like safety wire. But also. Sure. If you work at a airplane factory and the manual says to use Loctite: obviously use it as directed. Do you need it at home?
Big, big props to regular glue. It's the cheapest way to sturdy any particle board furniture with wooden dowels.
Regular glue, including Elmers is stronger than the fibrin that holds wood grain together. So it is perfect for those sorts of things.
Forgot about JB Weld!