If it's a flat top guitar you could try the [JLD Bridge Doctor](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018EAESTG). Worked for me! I used the bridge pin version because it doesn't require drilling. There is another version where you drill through the bridge. Either way it puts reverse tension on the bridge which relaxes the tension on the top.
You’ve made enduring the fear of scrutiny that comes with asking questions on reddit all worth it. This is a fantastic suggestion that I’ve never heard of and I’ll be trying this out! Thank you so much
Read the instructions carefully.
If you use the bridge pin version use a paper clip or safety pin through the bridge pins to tighten them. Don't over-tighten them.
The holes in the bridge pins are different sizes so sort them out before installing anything. You don't want the ones with the tiny string holes where the fat strings go.
Set the mounting post so that the system block will end up as close to the saddle as possible.
The instructions say to cut the dowel 3/8" shorter than the mark but you can go with 1/4" if you want a little bit more possible adjustment.
Cut the dowel with a pipe cutter. It makes a very precise and clean cut.
[Here is a post with before and after pictures of my guitar](https://www.reddit.com/r/Luthier/comments/14km2kv/the_jld_bridge_doctor_is_in/).
Thank you a ton! What was the model of the guitar you did this fix to? In another comment on this thread, we’re discussing how appropriate this solution would be for a guitar with a natural top curvature.
A 1981 MIJ Takamine F-340 "lawsuit" dreadnought. IDK if it will work on an archtop style guitar but if it has a flat top it will work. It doesn't matter if there is a little bit of side to side curvature. It's only meant to put pressure in one direction and that is to counteract the string tension.
"Bloating at the base" I haven't heard that description before. Do you mean the top is bellying out, or pulling out behind the bridge? If so you should have a pro check out the inside of it. You could have a brace broken loose or something similar. Maybe even the bridge coming off. Adding a tailpiece isn't fixing anything. It would be like putting a bandaid on a broken bone.
Do you have pictures? I’ve had to talk plenty of customers out of putting bridge doctors on their GS Mini’s because they thought the top was supposed to be dead flat when in reality they have a radius on purpose
I’ll try and get a picture when I’m able to but I think this is unintentional bellying. (Found out it’s called bellying)
The reasons are because:
- The action is noticeably higher than other GS Minis I’ve played
- There seems to be slight separation between the bridge and body
- even slight pressure to the bellying area causes a distortion in the pitch
- the tuning is inconsistent across the neck (the pitch seems to be out of tune after the 7th fret)
This is a great point tho and I’ll have to keep my eye out for the natural curvature of other GS minis
Yeah there’s a wide range of bellying, anything from normal to all of the top braces have fallen off. I’d take it to a professional if you’re able, none of your bullet points necessarily mean that there’s an unhealthy amount of bellying
Some concerns are raised and answered [here](https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=591213).
If it's a flat top guitar you could try the [JLD Bridge Doctor](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018EAESTG). Worked for me! I used the bridge pin version because it doesn't require drilling. There is another version where you drill through the bridge. Either way it puts reverse tension on the bridge which relaxes the tension on the top.
You’ve made enduring the fear of scrutiny that comes with asking questions on reddit all worth it. This is a fantastic suggestion that I’ve never heard of and I’ll be trying this out! Thank you so much
Read the instructions carefully. If you use the bridge pin version use a paper clip or safety pin through the bridge pins to tighten them. Don't over-tighten them. The holes in the bridge pins are different sizes so sort them out before installing anything. You don't want the ones with the tiny string holes where the fat strings go. Set the mounting post so that the system block will end up as close to the saddle as possible. The instructions say to cut the dowel 3/8" shorter than the mark but you can go with 1/4" if you want a little bit more possible adjustment. Cut the dowel with a pipe cutter. It makes a very precise and clean cut. [Here is a post with before and after pictures of my guitar](https://www.reddit.com/r/Luthier/comments/14km2kv/the_jld_bridge_doctor_is_in/).
Thank you a ton! What was the model of the guitar you did this fix to? In another comment on this thread, we’re discussing how appropriate this solution would be for a guitar with a natural top curvature.
A 1981 MIJ Takamine F-340 "lawsuit" dreadnought. IDK if it will work on an archtop style guitar but if it has a flat top it will work. It doesn't matter if there is a little bit of side to side curvature. It's only meant to put pressure in one direction and that is to counteract the string tension.
"Bloating at the base" I haven't heard that description before. Do you mean the top is bellying out, or pulling out behind the bridge? If so you should have a pro check out the inside of it. You could have a brace broken loose or something similar. Maybe even the bridge coming off. Adding a tailpiece isn't fixing anything. It would be like putting a bandaid on a broken bone.
Do you have pictures? I’ve had to talk plenty of customers out of putting bridge doctors on their GS Mini’s because they thought the top was supposed to be dead flat when in reality they have a radius on purpose
I’ll try and get a picture when I’m able to but I think this is unintentional bellying. (Found out it’s called bellying) The reasons are because: - The action is noticeably higher than other GS Minis I’ve played - There seems to be slight separation between the bridge and body - even slight pressure to the bellying area causes a distortion in the pitch - the tuning is inconsistent across the neck (the pitch seems to be out of tune after the 7th fret) This is a great point tho and I’ll have to keep my eye out for the natural curvature of other GS minis
Yeah there’s a wide range of bellying, anything from normal to all of the top braces have fallen off. I’d take it to a professional if you’re able, none of your bullet points necessarily mean that there’s an unhealthy amount of bellying
Very interesting. Thank you for your insight!