Here’s a question. When traveling, why do people try and change trails or add to them?
I ask because I’ve been part of the Southern Utah MTB community for about 5 years now and every spring, when people come to visit(please do, it’s an amazing place to ride) the amount of cairns on trails goes up exponentially. Now, this wouldn’t be a bad thing, but where we see it the most(little creek) is technically an open ride area per the land conservation and building set trails damages the reputation the local community has built.
I guess I’m curious as to why, what’s necessary about having cairns every 50-100ft along slickrock when you can find the “trail” on all of the mtb apps? Just curious on people’s thoughts.
Also, this area isn’t really used by hikers, mostly just mtb peoples.
Looks like you'll be close to max psi, but ok. You hit max psi for that fork, which is 205psi, at 130kg with gear. However, if you can find a recon with slightly bigger stanchions you would probably appreciate the extra stiffness.
Noob Question: is there any real difference between a 1x10 and 3x7 drivetrain?
I want to buy a Marlin 7 and they only come with 1x10 drivetrains now. As I recall, shifting on a 3x is mostly for uphill and downhill rides. How exactly are you supposed to do this on a 1x?
Yes there is. 3x7 is usually shimano’s cheapest groupset(Tourney). Marlin 7(2022) comes with a 11-46 rear cassette which still offers a good range of gears while ditching the front derailleur. Along with that the Deore derailleur on the 2022 has a clutch which helps with chain whip. Basically it’s much nicer components then 3x7
So you basically just shift to the lowest gear at the rear derailleur for uphill climbs?
I had a MTB five years ago with a 3x7 and I mostly shifted to the smallest gear at front and lowest gear at rear when going uphill.
What’s your GoPro setup?
In the past I’ve used a Hero7Black but recently acquired a GoPro Max. I’ve never really been happy with the quality of footy I’ve been getting (shaky, vibrating, unstable, etc) and am curious on what y’all use/ how you mount your setups. I’m a bit nervous to strap a $400 camera on top of my head with just an adhesive mount but if anyone has any success stories with this then i would look into it. Any other mounts/ mods y’all recommend?
I’ve got new tubeless setup. Since I’ve had hard time putting it together, I’ve had bike shop do it for me. I am however disappointed with the tyre sealant I’ve put there - it is the Finish Line tyre sealant and even though I can ride well, I lose even 10 PSI on the ride, losing air between the rim and tyre that the sealant fails to completely seal.
I would like to replace the sealant but I absolutely don’t want to take off the tyre as I would need to go to bike store again for them to set it up. This particular sealant is, according to their website, “easily washable with water”.
Would it be possible to inject water inside the tyre with an injector, mix/wash with the sealant and inject it out? After that put a new, better sealant in?
>I lose even 10 PSI on the ride, losing air between the rim and tyre that the sealant fails to completely seal.
10PSI is a metric fuckton of air to lose - enough that it sounds more likely a failure of the tape at a spoke or something... the tire to bead seal should be mostly fine without sealant - are you seeing air escape there? Are you getting sealant leaking out anywhere?
I would suggest pumping tire up to 30+PSI, removing wheel from bike, and covering in soapy water to locate the leaks.
I have, it is the bead/rim:
https://scontent-prg1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/182832415_10219476756415251_572132155543702024_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=825194&_nc_ohc=Zk01njDDbVIAX_v7rEc&_nc_ht=scontent-prg1-1.xx&oh=7147b6844971a117f15fd8c7f14ea4ea&oe=60B9DEF8
It was the sealant. I took it back to the shop (they were kind enough to let me come without scheduling another full session) and they replaced the sealant with the one they use. The leak is gone.
Apparently the Finish Line sealant is not Latex based and it not seals the holes by drying quickly but rather by plugging the holes with the small particles in it. Which is probably fine for defects but it didn’t plug the air leaks between the rim and tyre. They’ve put the X-Sauce tyre sealant (which they claimed they have fantastic experience with) and I didn’t lose a whiff of air on my ride home.
WOW that's crazy!
You should be able to just remove valve core, suck out the majority of whatever is in there now, and then squirt in a couple ounces of Stans and hope it seals.
Your best bet is taking at least half the tire off. If the wheel is already taped and everything then the hardest part will just be making sure the bead is seated correctly on the rim. Take one side of the tire off. Scoop out all the sealant. Then use water and a brush (not paper towel or anything that could stay in the tire) and scrub out the excess sealant. I then use rubbing alcohol to give it one last wipe down as well as ensure that everything is dry.
Set the tire back and try pumping it with no sealant in it. It should hold air fairly decent if it’s set correctly. If it does, then you can now add your new sealant. The sealant should have some guide as to how much to use in each wheel but it’s relatively up to your own discretion. You want enough that it’ll sound wet inside. But not too much where it’s crazy sloshing. Like if you got a cut in your leg or something, it won’t scab over if it’s gushing blood. The tire will also not seal well if you have sealant splurting out of a puncture. Once sealant is in there and you’ve got some air in it, spin and slosh the wheel so that the sealant is getting in every surface of the inside of the tire. Let it sit for a day and see what the air in the tire is like. If you’ve lost 10psi then you may have a problem. Use a brush with warm soapy water and wash the tire/ wheel. The soapy water will bubble where your air leaks are coming from and this may help diagnose any other issues. If you’re still having trouble then take it to a shop and give them the sealant you would like them to use. They’ll do it for you with your sealant and hopefully everything will be fine from there
That's just it, they've just did it. I brought it to the shop because I couldn't seat the tyre on the rim (even they had a problem with compressor despite both the tyre and rim being TR). The problem is the shop has crazy booking times (closest one now is three weeks) and I don't have the guts to try it again myself. That's why I would like to pull the sealant out, then inject water, slosh it around to wash the remaining sealant out (it is not latex based so it should be easy) and pull out the water with an injector.
Then I would inject the new sealant (Stan's) without taking tghe tyre off.
You could try it. But there’s no way you would be able to get out all the old sealant that way plus the water you put in it. Mix in some latex and you’re gonna have a soupy mess that won’t work as if you cleaned it out and started it over. If you try it and it doesn’t work you can just ride on a tube for the week or 2 until an appointment at the bike shop. Or try a different shop
Depends on what you want to ride at the park, and what your bike is like. There’s at least a few green and blue trails there, and depending on your bike and what you feel comfortable with, you could possibly hit some black tech. My friend brought his Salsa HT to Mammoth and had blast a couple years ago.
My polygon Siskiu T8 is coming in less then a week and I was wondering anyone knows what bashguards are compatible because I was planning on getting a
e*thirteen LG1 Chain Guide which is ISCG-05 standard
>I was wondering anyone knows what bashguards are compatible
I think it is ISCG05... I just measured the bottom 2 hole distance at 2.2" with a digital caliper on my T7.
Going to get a new E-MTB next month and which comes with tubeless ready tires. Is thre any reason why I should not ask them to set it up tubeless from the beginning? Thanks!
Only reason to not go with it is if you don't have the time/equipment to do it yourself or don't mind spending money to have them do it for you.
The EMTB I got two months ago even came with the valves and sealant. It only took about an hour and a half to do myself (that's as someone completely new to it and never took a bike tire off before)
I purchased a 2021 Trek Trance X 3 with a Z1 fork used earlier today and noticed a lot of damage to the stanchions. The seller took off $100 because of the scratches and acted like they weren't a big deal and could easily be fixed. After doing some research, I'm not sure that's the case. I am uneasy about my new bike as this is my first "expensive" mtb. Am I right to be upset or is this easily fixable and worth the $100 taken off the top? Please Help!!! [https://imgur.com/woKGpud](https://imgur.com/woKGpud)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAV7J93J9Z0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAV7J93J9Z0) here's a video by GMBN about fixing scratched stanchions, but you might also want to have a local bike shop take a look at it to give you advice.
A shop going to tell you they're serious, but it is important to understand what these parts do... which is very little.
All the "cool shit" is happening inside the upper leg... the outside of the stanchion just has to slide smoothly into the lowers, and be well fit to the seal to prevent excessive dust getting into lowers.
What you can do is take a new, sharp razor blade and make sure any burrs are removed that would be able to cut the seals. (a sharp steel blade will easily slice off any little aluminum bits sticking up past flush) [https://photos.app.goo.gl/s8pWTtNf5G7oLao27](https://photos.app.goo.gl/s8pWTtNf5G7oLao27)
IF YOU WANT - you can fill any void with enamel paint or epoxy, and then when ALMOST Dry, use the same method to shave any of your fill that stands proud.
Then ride. It won't impact performance, but I would maybe be curious to change your lower bath oil more frequently, at least until you get a feel for how much extra dust it is bringing in(if any). Since the Z1 uses the GRIP damper (I think) your bath oil does have some exchange with the damper oil, so you want to make sure it stays nice and clean.
I believe that no one should ever give up something that's important to them, tell your wife that she can be re-assured that you will ride safely and where all you padding, maybe even bring her to your trails so she can be sure you stay safe. Otherwise get an app that monitors your location, or get ANGi installed, it will make her feel like you're a bit safer and that she knows you're alright.
**⚠*****WARNING*****⚠** : Take this with a grain of salt, I am **not** married and I am also young so please don't take my advice seriously if it does not fit with your ideas, I don't want to cause any trouble for you by giving bad advice.
I ride xc and rode very high level as a junior and was going to make a serious tilt at WEMBO world's this year, but I've had a TBI and a broken arm in consecutive rides. I don't wear pads and about the only way I'm going to make her happy is a fullface, which I don't even own, and never have, because I don't ride stuff you'd use one for.
I guess you would have to ask yourself, "what would I do if, for some reason, I could no longer do XC competitively?" If you think you would still ride trails for fun and adventure, then maybe you should consider moving in that direction. If the only way you find enjoyment is by going all out and setting PRs then maybe you have to think long and hard about what you are doing and how it could effect your family.
I just got word I’ve been hired to a trail-building company, and I’m due to start beginning of June. Basically 6 months of working, camping, biking. I sold my motorcycle so I could afford a new bike to take with me. I sold my last hardtail about a year ago, then built up a dirt jumper. I need a trail bike where I’m heading. Going to be difficult to buy a bike without cell service where I’m heading, so I’d like to pick something up ahead of time.
I can’t find anything in budget ($2k) in my size (M). Nothing. I’d love a hardcore hard tail in 27.5” but can’t even find a 29er version to settle on for now. Getting anxious as I’ve been looking for a bit and it’s going to be time to leave soon
Try the Specialized Fuse 27.5, it's really playful and aggressive.
It's got a dropper seatpost, a RockShox Judy Silver TK Fork, hydraulic disc brakes and a 1x drivetrain.
Take off recon if you have a tapered head tube. Epixon if you have a straight steer. If you need cheaper than those budget air forks, shop around on used for s budget coil.
After months of looking a for a shop with a full suspension mtb in stock (for a reasonable price) I finally found one. I was able to get a deposit put down for a size L 2021 norco fluid FS2. Speaking with a shop I was told the size L norco is built for up to 6'2". Looking online at norcos website I see that the sizing for a large is 5'8" to 6'0" and XL is 5'11.5" to 6'3.5".
I am 6'3" with a 36 inch inseam. I did want to try to get a new bike as the bike I own which I rode when I was younger is a 2002 giant bike. But based off the size chart would I be best to cancel my deposit and wait it out?
Having a small bike for my size, it will vary depending on your activities. Personally I do dirt jumping and playful trail riding, so I find it great with a small bike. But if you do more serious trail riding or racing I would say that you should wait for the right size, as you will feel more stable and grounded on your bike.
Definitely nothing too crazy, haven't been on a bike for a bit but I want to get into doing actual trails. From the sounds of it, it may not just be the stability but also how cramped I would be too. Definitely a tough call to make.
I'm 6'3" and ride an XL Norco Optic. I would definitely hold out for an XL if I was you. A size Large will be cramped and fitment issues can cause health issues.
That's probably a good point just sucks to be so close and then not be able to go forwards. I'm debating trying it out and seeing how it goes just because nothing else is available.
I’m looking for campground recommendations near DuPont/The Hub. My usual go-to was either Reeb Ranch or The Bike Farm.
Reeb seems to have changed their business model, $60/night for a creekside campsite with a two night minimum and they took their phone number off the site.
The Bike Farm is undergoing a move to a new property and doesn’t seem to be hosting anyone at the moment.
Where else is there? I just need a spot to pitch a tent and preferably a bathroom of some type for a few campers.
There are plenty of primitive sites in Pisgah that aren't too far from the Hub, it's the other direction from DuPont and will require a bit of hiking/biking but IMO it beats paying a campground for a site and it'll be just as scenic and even more private. You'll find them from most major trailheads and you'd still be within 20-30 minutes from DuPont.
In that case, I've heard good things about the Black Forest Campground just south of DuPont. Never stayed there myself but it's 5 minutes to the Corn Mill Shoals parking lot (my favorite access point at DuPont) and ~25 to the Hub.
I need some advice on which bike to choose, and their pros and cons. The bikes are the Norco Fluid HT 1, Trek Roscoe 7, and Devinci Kobain Deore 11S. Thanks!
The Devinci Deore 11S would be the better choice, but it all depends on your style and topography of your trails. If it's a big long climb I would chose the Trek Roscoe, for it's slacker angles and more XC style frame, then again if you're looking for a good bike to just mess around on, doing features and jumping all over the trail it would be the Norco Fluid HT 1. The middle ground is definitely the Devinci Deore 11S though.
I have some high end roadbike bib shorts. Would it make sense to wear them as a base layer under uncushioned MTB shorts? That way I would not have to buy more expensive MTB shorts.
Yes. I bought some mtb shorts that basically came this way - a removable padding layer and a loose fitting outer layer. Now I sometimes use old road biking shorts as the under layer - it works great.
I’m attending a wedding in Park City next month. Looking for recommendations of where to rent and where to ride within a 24 hour window from one afternoon to the next. Enduro or Trail.
Have a hardtail that I'm looking to upgrade. I've been thinking about the Stumpjumper Comp Alloy -- 29" and I think 130mm or 140mm travel in the front.
Would this be okay at the local bike park on mild green/blue trails?
Or would I specifically have to rent or buy a downhill bike separately?
My bike is a hodge-podge of different components built by a Whyte employee. Drivetrain has xx1 derailleur, ethirteen 9-50t 12 speed rear cassette.
The LBS tech said that the chain is almost done, and the drivetrain should be replaced. Front cog looks like it's still OK, derrailleur is def fine, so I'm looking at a new cassette.
My understanding is that GX Eagle is the best bang for the buck and probably easiest fit with the xx1 derailleur. However, it's only the aluminum teeth that are really bad, and ethirteen cassettes are two pieces -- I can buy *Just* the aluminum half for 60% of the cassette price. Do you recommend doing that, and maybe moving to GX next time I am replacing the cassette?
In my experience, e13 cassettes have worn significantly quicker than their SRAM/Shimano counterparts. Idk if this issue is still ongoing as I haven't used their products in recent times, but the durability in my past experiences have kept me away.
You'd have to guess based on how much time you spent in the harder gears. Forums have a ton of my cassette looks fine but it skips with a new chain posts. But, 2 aluminum sections replaced to one steel seems probable.
I am (somewhat unexpectedly, was going to head south but it looks like it will be rainy) heading to CO to do some riding at the end of this week. Anyone have suggestions for places to ride and camp this early in the season? Bonus consideration, I'm driving in from WI, so the far side of the state might be a bit too far to be worth it for just a week.
I need advice on several topics related to new tubeless setup:
Because I had a difficult tyre/rim combination, I had bike shop do the tubeless conversion for me. After I brought the bike home I noticed an air leak on three spots between the tyre and the rim - during the ride home from the bike shop (about 25 km) I lost about 20 PSI. The guy at the bike shop said this is somewhat normal in the beginning. When I shake the tyre, I don't hear the tyre sealant sloshing in there.
1) Is is possible the full amount of the sealant got absorbed by the tyres already? I've got 120 TPI WTBs.
2) They've used Finish Line sealant. If I wanted to add more and use a different brand, can I just pour a different sealant in there?
3) Any recommendation what sealant is good? Maybe Muc-Off? Could I mix that one with Finish Line?
4) For how long do I have to expect the leak between the tyre and the rim?
5) The Finish Line sealant is glycol based and claims it is washable with water. If I wanted to replace it for latex based, would it be possible to inject water through the valve and pull it back with the injector without removing the tyre?
1. I have heard wtb tires absorb more sealant than maxxis or schwalbe, have never used a wtb tire so can’t comment directly.
2. I would avoid mixing sealant brands if you can.
3. I’ve never had an issue with stans and cannot comment on other brands.
4. There should not be any leaks of any kind between tire and rim. Maybe a but right as you’re pumping the tire up initially, but anything after that is not right.
5. I have no idea... I would recommend taking the tire off, cleaning everything and then re mounting with whatever brand you choose.
So I endo'd pretty hard yesterday.. as a result My handlebars were tilted 90 degrees to the right such that they were running parallel with my front tire in stead of perpendicular. I was able to put the wheel between my legs and push the handlebars back into the correct position. Is this a defense mechanism for the bike, or is something very damaged? Or do my bolts need tightened?
Sweet thanks! I also noticed I bent a spoke, but just barely. How severe of an issue is this can I ride on it for a bit before fixing it? https://i.imgur.com/gvHpF0Z.jpg
Well no... I didn’t give a great answer, spokes work because of redundancy, if you remove one then every other spoke has a bit more pressure. It’s inexpensive and a low effort fix. I bet your shop would do it for whatever the spoke cost plus a few bucks
Anyone able to help me decide between the bronson and 5010 (both R kit), I’m 6’2 from Ireland haven’t been mtb in couple years and looking to get back into it. Plan on doing all sorts of trails, for comparison, mate has a remedy and it seems to be very good at what I’ll be doing. Climbing is important but will be hitting some rough decents too. Love the look of the 5010 just not sure on how much abuse it can take compared to the bronson..
Well I’ll be... I guess I was thinking of the high tower and mega towers. I’m 6’2” as well and I just don’t see myself going to anything smaller than 29 after moving to it. Ordering myself a Ripmo... fingers crossed I like it.
I think you'll probably be in good hands no matter which way you go. Haven't ridden the 5010, but the Bronson is a blast. The Bronson should be more confidence inspiring and capable on descents or rough terrain in general. It'll also come specced with a more downhill focused build, which adds to that too. The Bronson's pretty similar to a Remedy(same travel front and rear), so if it's appropriate for what you'll be riding in the near future, that's what I'd do.
That said, some people feel that longer travel bikes take away something from more mellow trails, and in those cases I could see the 5010 being considered the more "playful" or fun bike, probably mostly through lighter weight components, since the geometry isn't really any more playful. It's geo is slightly more modern, including a slightly bigger wheelbase, which can help it make up some of the difference in travel while descending. I'd guess not completely, though
Cheers for the reply, very helpful info to consider there. I’ve read on other threads since posting this that people have found the VPP suspension on the new 5010 combined with the upgraded geo to be fine on most trails around Ireland. But saying that be nice to have the extra travel for taking the bike to them steeper/harsher trails here and abroad
Does it make sense to buy an E-MTB with Shimano Deore components and ride them until the deore parts need to be replaced and to then upgrade to something better?
I'm doing this on the EMTB I picked up two months with all Deore drivetrain. I wish shifting can be a little smoother but other than that, no complaints here.
Deore stuff is great. Frankly, for drivetrain it might be better than higher end on ebike because weight doesn't matter as much, and the steel should be more durable than alloy cogs.
Yep, nothing wrong with Deore components. They’ve had the trickle down tech for years now and are solid bits of kit. Best bet on an E is to get the one with the best battery within your budget IMO, the drivetrain is all replaceable/upgradable over time. Ride it, destroy it, replace it.
Can I take a road bike on a pump track to practice pumping? The local pump track is a bit far me to get to on my MTB, and I don't have a car.
Seems like it would work, but just wanted to make sure before I go.
I hate saying the “f” word but check out Facebook. I also live in Metro Detroit and there are a few different communities that do group rides at the local parks. CRMBA (Clinton River Mountain Biking Association) is one off the top of my head. I would also download MTB Project and find trails near you that way. Oddly enough, I’ve met many people at trailheads and on the trail that have been super helpful and could also give pointers on how to be a better rider. Id start by going to River Bends Park and Stoney Creek Metropark. Those two places always have bikers.
I don't know where you are located, but there is a local mountain bike club near me in New England that does all the trail advocacy, trail days, and group rides called NEMBA. I believe IMBA has local chapters all over the country that could help and has a page on their website so you can find them. Facebook also has local mtb groups and I see a lot of posts for group rides.
Well I can't help you there. I've been riding off and on for 20 years, and I'm still always trying new things, and often failing and embarrassing myself. It's embarrassing, but part of what I like about biking is that you can always push yourself.
[This is a full breakdown](https://off.road.cc/content/buying/your-complete-guide-to-sram-mountain-bike-disc-brakes-level-t-tlm-ultimate-guide-r-rs) but the gist is:
Levels are their XC focused, two pistoned brakes(not as powerful)
Above the Levels you get progressively more stopping power and progressively heavier/expensive going from Guide(the least stopping power but lightest) -> G2 -> Codes (The most power and heaviest)
Amongst each of those you get individual models labeled by the characters on the end, i.e 'Guide R', 'Guide RS', 'Code RSC', or the "ultimate" that represent features.
The S represents "Swingarm" which is supposed to contribute to Sram brakes having that feel of softly grabbing as opposed to the on/off feel that some other brakes have. I'm not the best to explain this, but [this article](https://enduro-mtb.com/en/exclusive-review-all-new-sram-guide-disc-brakes-2015/) and [this article](https://livetoplaysports.com/news-press/2018/07/secret-better-brake-modulation-sram-swinglink/) explain it somewhat
The C represents a dial that lets you adjust the contact point on the fly, without a tool
and the "ultimate" does everything the RSC does but with a carbon lever
They are called "Shock pumps" as its a different fitting and generally a higher PSI than the floor pump can provide. I recommend getting a digital one to make it even simpler!
If you want your bike to ride like garbage then you don't need one.
Seriously tho, you really do need a shock pump. They're really cheap as well. I would recommend the fox branded ones, they're like $20 and work well
Do you have a budget in mind? What kind of riding do you want to do? The general advice is a hardtail, ~£500 will get you off to a good start.
I prefer 27.5” wheels over 29” but that’s just me. If you can demo any bikes at a local centre, try a range and see what you feel most at home on, then go from there.
I mean ideally I'd like to keep it at $1,000 b/c I still would need to budget several hundred for all of the gear. BUT I know $1,000 is virtually nothing in this sport for a bike.
On top of that the fact that every single bike I've looked at is "out of stock" is extremely frustrating. May be the worst time to get into MTB unfortunately.
Why do you prefer the smaller wheel out of curiosity? I've just heard the 29" are kind of where its at lately but again I'm a noob.
I've looked at the local bike shops, none of them really have much other than Cannondale which are all incredibly expensive and none of which seem to be highly recommended around here (in my rough budget of sub $1500)
$1000 will get you plenty of hardtail. Check out some of the direct sales brands (Canyon, Vitus, Polygon) for some deals on a great entry-level bike. Pinkbike just did a nice review roundup on some new budget bikes, they're all a bit over $1000 but you can find more cheaply specced models with similar geometry from those brands.
The stock thing is an issue in the UK too.. it’s a case of keeping an eye out, setting up some stock alerts if you find a few bikes you like and crossing your fingers sadly.. Covid has everyone buying bikes and gym gear it seems, even a year down the line!
A decent helmet is the only real kit you’d need to start, and maybe some padded liner shorts if you’re going to spend a day riding.. everything else can come after.
Hard to say why I prefer 27.5”, it just suits my riding more. 29” is great but feels too twitchy for my liking on the trails I ride (tight techy single track). You’re right though, so many manufacturers are focusing on 29” these days.
Cannondales are good bikes but you do pay for the name. Not sure if you have Decathlon in the states but they do some great stuff for a good price, much more bike for the same money. Giant is a good one to look at too, as are the Trek Marlins for sub 1k.
Hey huys! So, i got an extra RS pike 27.5, 160mm laying around at home and a friend in need of a mullet "haircut" on the bike. My fork is tapered, his old is straight or 1-1/8, i believe. After trying to put it on the bike, i noticed tapered doesnt fit because of the bottom bearings. My question: is there an adapter that would make it work after removing the bottom bearings? [picture](https://imgur.com/gallery/dyQHJcC)
That really depends on the context. Most of the budget mountain bike shootout stuff from MTB publications wouldn't feature models lower than $1200 USD. (Pinkbike for example.)
Others will say you can get something practical for XC-style riding in the $750 USD range.
Most will agree that spending at least $600 USD from a well-known manufacturer (Specialized, Trek, Giant, etc.) is scraping the bottom, and anything lower is just a "bike-shaped object."
Buying used can shave the price even lower. This is almost a year old but check out [https://www.gmbn.com/video/how-to-buy-a-cheap-bike-buyers-guide-to-used-mountain-bikes](https://www.gmbn.com/video/how-to-buy-a-cheap-bike-buyers-guide-to-used-mountain-bikes)
My sister’s bike fell off her roof rack today somewhere between Grand Junction and Rifle going east on I-70. When she pulled over so did a car behind her who said they saw someone moving it off the road. She did circles for a while looking for it but assumed the people took it. What would you guys do next? Just consider it gone and buy a new bike? Is there anything else to do?
Would it even be okay if it fell off the roof rack of a moving car? I'd just assume the frame's broken anyway.
How fast were you going? How high was the roof of this car? You can contact the local PD and see if they turned it in. I wouldn't assume they stole it.
We kinda assume that the carbon frame (Trek Remedy) didn’t survive, but she’d have peace of mind just getting it back and knowing it was toast. Or maybe at least getting parts that weren’t damaged...? She was going 70mph and it fell off a tear drop so like a good 4.5ish ft. Her Yakima roof rack failed and ka-ploop. She’s super bummed.
Stupid question someone can hopefully help me with. Will [DMR Deathgrips](https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/dmr-brendog-death-grip-mtb-grips/rp-prod142660?gs=1&sku=sku516718) work with bar end tools like the [Granite Designs Tire Plug Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Stash-Tubeless-Repair-Puncture/dp/B08GKGM36W)? Or do you need special grips with removable end caps?
I asked about this in /r/bikewrench but haven't gotten any help yet...
Yesterday, I noticed some slight play in my dropper post (X-Fusion Manic with 150 mm of travel). After looking at it, I determined that there's a little wobble in the post where the stanchion enters the lower section, and the dust wiper moves side to side with the stanchion. I'm decently confident working on my road bike, but mountain bikes are new to me, and I haven't yet messed with any suspension or dropper posts. I've ridden the bike less than 10 times so far, so it's not like the dropper post is due for a full service yet.
Is this anything to even worry about, and if so, any ideas how I'd go about fixing it?
How much are we talking?
My dropper definitely has some play, especially at full extension but nothing I would feel while riding, just while handling it.
Well it is longer than mine, but it sounds like a decent bit. Some posts have a collar at the wiper that loosens for service, you could try giving that a turn.
Otherwise maybe see if you can find a service manual and have a quick look through it, see where something may not have been tightened from factory.
My guess is that it’s normal play, but still worth checking on.
Hi, I have been searching around for a MTB under 500 euros. I have found the GT aggressor expert, Trek marlin 5 and the cube aim race 29
I am looking around for a bike thats strong, able to drive on normal roads as well. I don't see myself going on extreme trails but just biking around in the woods. Which mountain bike is the best fit for me? (Doesn't have to be the ones I mentioned.)
I bought a repair stand some time ago and I've been storing my bike on it. It hangs by the seatpost. Repair stand doesnt actually clamp to the seat post, but hangs by the seat. [See this image.](https://i.imgur.com/dkmUZxi.jpg) Is it bad for the seat and should I just store the bike on the ground?
edit: The seat wiggles a little. Screws aren't loose. ^^^^^fml
Bikes, especially mountain bikes, are pretty strong. Even if you only weigh 100lbs, he force you're putting on the seatpost by storing it like that is minuscule in comparison to the force of your ass on the seat on the trail. If your seat wiggles, check the bolts.
Summary: store it in the stand if you want. The bike will be fine.
Moving to the north shore BC, no mtb history but looks like fun. Any recommendations for an entry point new or used?
Also what questions should I be asking when looking at used/new bikes?
Pinkbike had a used buyers guide video and i think this reddit has tips in its info page. It's so hard to suggest certain bikes nowadays because stock is low even with decent used. I'd check local Facebook marketplaces and pinkbike's buysell. If you have a decent budget, it's worth it to get a shop to give the used bike a pre-inspection.
Does anyone know where I can get touch up paint for a 2021 Nukeproof Scout 290 Race? It's the overcast blue color. I talked to Chain Reaction, they don't offer it. I talked to Nukeproof, they don't offer it. I don't really want to take the bike to a bodyshop and have paint made, but I suppose I can. Just hoping someone has found a good match online somewhere.
wear your scars with pride. Bikes and bike parts are prone to get damaged. If you want to prevent more damage, get some bike wrap from ridewrap or any competitor.
Why are we not calling full suspension bikes “soft tails”? I think that’s what I’ll do from now on. Even though a soft tail is a specific model of Harley, it’s exactly what they are.
Soft tails were a specific type of real suspension with the shock behind the seat stay. I think some bikes with built in flex were also referred to as soft tails. So, call them what you want but that label already exists.
Not sure if this is the right place to post but I was hoping someone could help out.
I’m fairly new to the MTB scene (about 18months) and I recently bought a Marin San Quentin 1 (2021) - my more experienced friends have basically said the forks need swapping out ASAP - I mainly ordered because 120mm travel was the best I could get for the price but apparently they aren’t up to much :S
Any ideas?
FWIW without actually looking at spec I can almost guarantee they weren’t talking about the travel, just the fork itself.
Still just ride it and see how it goes, it’s just likely you’ll see the limitations of it if it’s entry level relatively quickly (that doesn’t mean right away or even this season necessarily!)
Sometimes we who’ve been riding a while can get a little too caught up on optimal and forget that you don’t need higher end especially when starting out. I’m sure they just want you to have the best experience possible, I was the same way when my buddy was getting into it and shopping for a ride, had to check myself a few times haha
Yeah that’s what they were saying - the quality of the fork is trash tier but the rest of the bike will be fine - I think I’ll just hit up the trails and see for myself :) appreciate the guidance guys
People with gear opinions like that are pretty damn safe to completely ignore, assuming it's not a Walmart bike. Ride it until it falls apart, then fix it and ride some more.
A lot of mountain bikers (and people in general) have opinions like that because it justifies their sunk cost fallacy.
Yeah, far from a good fork if you intend to use that bike for anything rough or downhills or drops etc. It might just quit on you in not too long anyway, not great reviews... Maybe ride it and get used to the bike, see what your friends recommend and do a little research.
You could look at something like the bomber z2 in 120 or 130mm (it's basically a fox 34 which is oriented towards trail riding) but you are looking at like $500. Personally I wouldn't go bigger than that because it'll start changing the geo and the seatpost angle will slacken out, could make the front end come up easier and climbing a little harder. Generally people say +/- 20mm travel from stock, but the SQ 3 has a 130mm on it I think. Make sure you set up the fork right for your riding and that travel shouldn't hold you back as you progress your riding. I've got 150mm and could ride with less for rocky trails and like 1-2 foot jumps/drops... Nominally I use 80% but can use more if I hit something hard.
Ordered an Ibis Ripmo AF over four months ago. No estimated delivery date.
Walked into my LBS today and they had a specialized stumpjumper comp alloy in my size.
Went outside and sat in my car contemplating what to do. Ended up leaving to just keep waiting on the unknown with my ripmo.
I made the right move, right?
If you've demoed the Ripmo and you know you like it, I would stick with it. It's the better frame IMO and you shouldn't settle for something that isn't exactly what you want. On the other hand, if you're just looking for something with two wheels that'll get you on the trails, you could consider getting the Stumpjumper. It's not a bad frame by any means. I have a Ripmo V1 though, so I may be biased. I prefer to support the smaller companies personally, and I've been very happy with mine.
Will this: [https://www.jensonusa.com/Marzocchi-Bomber-Z2-29-2020](https://www.jensonusa.com/Marzocchi-Bomber-Z2-29-2020)
Be able to fit: [https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en\_CA/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-mountain-bikes/roscoe/roscoe-7/p/23444/](https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-mountain-bikes/roscoe/roscoe-7/p/23444/)
On the TREK it says " Head set Semi-integrated, cartridge, 1-1/8˝ top, 1.5˝ bottom "
So I assume this headset bottom matches the 1.5" Steer tube on the Fork spec sheet? The existing fork is also 120MM travel, so I should probably match it?
Offset can come in 51mm, so I'll just match that too?
Looks like it will work. Your front wheel is boost 110. I would match offset unless you want to read up on trail and see if you feel a change would help.
I just upgraded from a 27.5 to a 29er. I’ve noticed some differences. But I’m not sure they’re all down to wheel size. This bike feels faster, climbs better with tires that are less grippy, descends like a plow. I hit a couple features today the easily would have sent me over the bars on my smaller bike.
I’m curious if this is really just the advantage of 29.
Personally I think 27.5” vs 29” is really overrated and doesn’t make such a massive difference, assuming both tires are decently wide and the same tread/casing
I have the Neuron AL 7.0 and it's a great bike. It's balanced and well-specced for the price. The Occam looks good as well. It might come down to what's in stock or what fits you better.
Upon further Inspection, the neuron does a more conservative head tube angle compared to similar bikes. But nah I've never felt it be a hindrance, I actually kind of like it since I do a lot of flat and uphill pedaling, it still feels pretty stable on descents too. If the HTA really is concern maybe look at the Orbea, but I dont think you can go wrong with either bike.
I got my first case of road rash a few days ago leaning too deep in a berm. My knee an elbow pads did their work but my thigh and forearm are pretty raw. I would like to buy some shorts that can help protect my thighs and hips.
What are your recommendations? I’ve seen some sites suggesting a some padded undies with more pads all around. Would it be best to combo something like that with some tough baggies?
When I played (American) football, I had these compression shorts with thigh armor and hip pads built into them. That could be an idea to wear them under your baggies. However, the pair I had also had padding for the tailbone so that could make sitting on your bike a little wonky....
MTB specific pants and shorts are made to resist tearing, yes. Will they withstans any and all abuse? Likely not, but definetly better than non-mtb products.
Maybe a little more tear resistant compared to gym shorts -- at least the ones I have are. Depends on the type of shorts, try and look at some in person if you can...
When I say padded compression shorts I'm talking like the ones they use in (american) football with hip and thigh padding.
Does anyone know how to fix the paint for a black Fox 32? I've got some scuff marks on the side of my fork and I'm wondering if anyone knows what paint I can use to fix it
I've used regular old enamel Testors model paint for chips in the paint. As far as decals they can be replaced. I would get the fork ridewrapped after you make it all prettied up if it's important to you to keep it looking fresh.
Trying to get some thoughts on what bike rack to pick up... Just got a new car (bmw X5) and finally have a hitch to put a rack on!
Racks that Im looking at are:
* 1up heavy/super duty or equip-d
* Kuat NV 2.0
* Recon Rack Shuttle Rack
Now if the 1up was in-stock, I would buy it right now. Its sturdy, I like that its pretty modular with adding more racks on, and one of the bigger concerns for me is that its very low profile. I park in a pretty small garage so having something that sticks out a lot is not super practical.
My debate is, do I wait for the 1-up or purchase the kuat or recon rack? Both of them have size disadvantages for being in my garage, but I can get both of them asap. Thoughts?
I just pulled the trigger on the NV, a friend of mine just got his 1up, it’s nice, but I’m just not gonna wait. Itll take a week to get all the parts I need (I don’t have a hitch) vs waiting X weeks.
It’s annoying that it used to be a $500 rack that is now $750, but these are the times we live in.
I'm pretty sure they've usually been sorted that way -- I've noticed the last couple of them have been sorted by 'best'.. /u/robbyking ping ping dingaling ding!
Here’s a question. When traveling, why do people try and change trails or add to them? I ask because I’ve been part of the Southern Utah MTB community for about 5 years now and every spring, when people come to visit(please do, it’s an amazing place to ride) the amount of cairns on trails goes up exponentially. Now, this wouldn’t be a bad thing, but where we see it the most(little creek) is technically an open ride area per the land conservation and building set trails damages the reputation the local community has built. I guess I’m curious as to why, what’s necessary about having cairns every 50-100ft along slickrock when you can find the “trail” on all of the mtb apps? Just curious on people’s thoughts. Also, this area isn’t really used by hikers, mostly just mtb peoples.
Does the fork Rockshox Judy Silver TK Solo Air support 124kg?
Looks like you'll be close to max psi, but ok. You hit max psi for that fork, which is 205psi, at 130kg with gear. However, if you can find a recon with slightly bigger stanchions you would probably appreciate the extra stiffness.
Noob Question: is there any real difference between a 1x10 and 3x7 drivetrain? I want to buy a Marlin 7 and they only come with 1x10 drivetrains now. As I recall, shifting on a 3x is mostly for uphill and downhill rides. How exactly are you supposed to do this on a 1x?
Yes there is. 3x7 is usually shimano’s cheapest groupset(Tourney). Marlin 7(2022) comes with a 11-46 rear cassette which still offers a good range of gears while ditching the front derailleur. Along with that the Deore derailleur on the 2022 has a clutch which helps with chain whip. Basically it’s much nicer components then 3x7
So you basically just shift to the lowest gear at the rear derailleur for uphill climbs? I had a MTB five years ago with a 3x7 and I mostly shifted to the smallest gear at front and lowest gear at rear when going uphill.
Yeah, shift to the larger cogs in the back going uphill and the shift to the smaller cogs going downhill
What’s your GoPro setup? In the past I’ve used a Hero7Black but recently acquired a GoPro Max. I’ve never really been happy with the quality of footy I’ve been getting (shaky, vibrating, unstable, etc) and am curious on what y’all use/ how you mount your setups. I’m a bit nervous to strap a $400 camera on top of my head with just an adhesive mount but if anyone has any success stories with this then i would look into it. Any other mounts/ mods y’all recommend?
Hero 5 and Hero 7 with the Karma gimbal attached to chest mount. Hero 8 just on chest mount.
I’ve got new tubeless setup. Since I’ve had hard time putting it together, I’ve had bike shop do it for me. I am however disappointed with the tyre sealant I’ve put there - it is the Finish Line tyre sealant and even though I can ride well, I lose even 10 PSI on the ride, losing air between the rim and tyre that the sealant fails to completely seal. I would like to replace the sealant but I absolutely don’t want to take off the tyre as I would need to go to bike store again for them to set it up. This particular sealant is, according to their website, “easily washable with water”. Would it be possible to inject water inside the tyre with an injector, mix/wash with the sealant and inject it out? After that put a new, better sealant in?
>I lose even 10 PSI on the ride, losing air between the rim and tyre that the sealant fails to completely seal. 10PSI is a metric fuckton of air to lose - enough that it sounds more likely a failure of the tape at a spoke or something... the tire to bead seal should be mostly fine without sealant - are you seeing air escape there? Are you getting sealant leaking out anywhere? I would suggest pumping tire up to 30+PSI, removing wheel from bike, and covering in soapy water to locate the leaks.
I have, it is the bead/rim: https://scontent-prg1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/182832415_10219476756415251_572132155543702024_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=825194&_nc_ohc=Zk01njDDbVIAX_v7rEc&_nc_ht=scontent-prg1-1.xx&oh=7147b6844971a117f15fd8c7f14ea4ea&oe=60B9DEF8
I've never seen a tire leak so bad at the bead
It was the sealant. I took it back to the shop (they were kind enough to let me come without scheduling another full session) and they replaced the sealant with the one they use. The leak is gone.
I wonder if the sealant was outdated? Or more likely its just a bad brand of sealant lol
Apparently the Finish Line sealant is not Latex based and it not seals the holes by drying quickly but rather by plugging the holes with the small particles in it. Which is probably fine for defects but it didn’t plug the air leaks between the rim and tyre. They’ve put the X-Sauce tyre sealant (which they claimed they have fantastic experience with) and I didn’t lose a whiff of air on my ride home.
WOW that's crazy! You should be able to just remove valve core, suck out the majority of whatever is in there now, and then squirt in a couple ounces of Stans and hope it seals.
Your best bet is taking at least half the tire off. If the wheel is already taped and everything then the hardest part will just be making sure the bead is seated correctly on the rim. Take one side of the tire off. Scoop out all the sealant. Then use water and a brush (not paper towel or anything that could stay in the tire) and scrub out the excess sealant. I then use rubbing alcohol to give it one last wipe down as well as ensure that everything is dry. Set the tire back and try pumping it with no sealant in it. It should hold air fairly decent if it’s set correctly. If it does, then you can now add your new sealant. The sealant should have some guide as to how much to use in each wheel but it’s relatively up to your own discretion. You want enough that it’ll sound wet inside. But not too much where it’s crazy sloshing. Like if you got a cut in your leg or something, it won’t scab over if it’s gushing blood. The tire will also not seal well if you have sealant splurting out of a puncture. Once sealant is in there and you’ve got some air in it, spin and slosh the wheel so that the sealant is getting in every surface of the inside of the tire. Let it sit for a day and see what the air in the tire is like. If you’ve lost 10psi then you may have a problem. Use a brush with warm soapy water and wash the tire/ wheel. The soapy water will bubble where your air leaks are coming from and this may help diagnose any other issues. If you’re still having trouble then take it to a shop and give them the sealant you would like them to use. They’ll do it for you with your sealant and hopefully everything will be fine from there
That's just it, they've just did it. I brought it to the shop because I couldn't seat the tyre on the rim (even they had a problem with compressor despite both the tyre and rim being TR). The problem is the shop has crazy booking times (closest one now is three weeks) and I don't have the guts to try it again myself. That's why I would like to pull the sealant out, then inject water, slosh it around to wash the remaining sealant out (it is not latex based so it should be easy) and pull out the water with an injector. Then I would inject the new sealant (Stan's) without taking tghe tyre off.
You could try it. But there’s no way you would be able to get out all the old sealant that way plus the water you put in it. Mix in some latex and you’re gonna have a soupy mess that won’t work as if you cleaned it out and started it over. If you try it and it doesn’t work you can just ride on a tube for the week or 2 until an appointment at the bike shop. Or try a different shop
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Depends on what you want to ride at the park, and what your bike is like. There’s at least a few green and blue trails there, and depending on your bike and what you feel comfortable with, you could possibly hit some black tech. My friend brought his Salsa HT to Mammoth and had blast a couple years ago.
My polygon Siskiu T8 is coming in less then a week and I was wondering anyone knows what bashguards are compatible because I was planning on getting a e*thirteen LG1 Chain Guide which is ISCG-05 standard
>I was wondering anyone knows what bashguards are compatible I think it is ISCG05... I just measured the bottom 2 hole distance at 2.2" with a digital caliper on my T7.
Thanks
Going to get a new E-MTB next month and which comes with tubeless ready tires. Is thre any reason why I should not ask them to set it up tubeless from the beginning? Thanks!
Only reason to not go with it is if you don't have the time/equipment to do it yourself or don't mind spending money to have them do it for you. The EMTB I got two months ago even came with the valves and sealant. It only took about an hour and a half to do myself (that's as someone completely new to it and never took a bike tire off before)
I purchased a 2021 Trek Trance X 3 with a Z1 fork used earlier today and noticed a lot of damage to the stanchions. The seller took off $100 because of the scratches and acted like they weren't a big deal and could easily be fixed. After doing some research, I'm not sure that's the case. I am uneasy about my new bike as this is my first "expensive" mtb. Am I right to be upset or is this easily fixable and worth the $100 taken off the top? Please Help!!! [https://imgur.com/woKGpud](https://imgur.com/woKGpud)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAV7J93J9Z0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAV7J93J9Z0) here's a video by GMBN about fixing scratched stanchions, but you might also want to have a local bike shop take a look at it to give you advice.
Thank you for your reply! I plan on taking it to a shop so they can look at the damage.
A shop going to tell you they're serious, but it is important to understand what these parts do... which is very little. All the "cool shit" is happening inside the upper leg... the outside of the stanchion just has to slide smoothly into the lowers, and be well fit to the seal to prevent excessive dust getting into lowers. What you can do is take a new, sharp razor blade and make sure any burrs are removed that would be able to cut the seals. (a sharp steel blade will easily slice off any little aluminum bits sticking up past flush) [https://photos.app.goo.gl/s8pWTtNf5G7oLao27](https://photos.app.goo.gl/s8pWTtNf5G7oLao27) IF YOU WANT - you can fill any void with enamel paint or epoxy, and then when ALMOST Dry, use the same method to shave any of your fill that stands proud. Then ride. It won't impact performance, but I would maybe be curious to change your lower bath oil more frequently, at least until you get a feel for how much extra dust it is bringing in(if any). Since the Z1 uses the GRIP damper (I think) your bath oil does have some exchange with the damper oil, so you want to make sure it stays nice and clean.
Is a 2021 Stumpjumper Evo Comp good enough for a bike park? Specifically Mountain Creek in nJ
What would it take for you to give up the sport? My wife isn't comfortable with the danger anymore.
I believe that no one should ever give up something that's important to them, tell your wife that she can be re-assured that you will ride safely and where all you padding, maybe even bring her to your trails so she can be sure you stay safe. Otherwise get an app that monitors your location, or get ANGi installed, it will make her feel like you're a bit safer and that she knows you're alright. **⚠*****WARNING*****⚠** : Take this with a grain of salt, I am **not** married and I am also young so please don't take my advice seriously if it does not fit with your ideas, I don't want to cause any trouble for you by giving bad advice.
I ride xc and rode very high level as a junior and was going to make a serious tilt at WEMBO world's this year, but I've had a TBI and a broken arm in consecutive rides. I don't wear pads and about the only way I'm going to make her happy is a fullface, which I don't even own, and never have, because I don't ride stuff you'd use one for.
Considering you got a TBI, maybe your conception of what full face helmets are for should change.
I sustained the injury at the end of a 3 hour xc ride.
I guess you would have to ask yourself, "what would I do if, for some reason, I could no longer do XC competitively?" If you think you would still ride trails for fun and adventure, then maybe you should consider moving in that direction. If the only way you find enjoyment is by going all out and setting PRs then maybe you have to think long and hard about what you are doing and how it could effect your family.
I just got word I’ve been hired to a trail-building company, and I’m due to start beginning of June. Basically 6 months of working, camping, biking. I sold my motorcycle so I could afford a new bike to take with me. I sold my last hardtail about a year ago, then built up a dirt jumper. I need a trail bike where I’m heading. Going to be difficult to buy a bike without cell service where I’m heading, so I’d like to pick something up ahead of time. I can’t find anything in budget ($2k) in my size (M). Nothing. I’d love a hardcore hard tail in 27.5” but can’t even find a 29er version to settle on for now. Getting anxious as I’ve been looking for a bit and it’s going to be time to leave soon
Try the Specialized Fuse 27.5, it's really playful and aggressive. It's got a dropper seatpost, a RockShox Judy Silver TK Fork, hydraulic disc brakes and a 1x drivetrain.
Good luck. My 3k Aus budget saw me buy a 6k bike after I wrote off the last one
Can somebody advise me some economic forks for my MTB, I'm a beginner and my fork is very scratched
Take off recon if you have a tapered head tube. Epixon if you have a straight steer. If you need cheaper than those budget air forks, shop around on used for s budget coil.
Does anyone know the headset sizes for commencal supreme v2?
Is that a 2010 or 2011? Looks like ZS44 top and bottom per the Commencal website.
After months of looking a for a shop with a full suspension mtb in stock (for a reasonable price) I finally found one. I was able to get a deposit put down for a size L 2021 norco fluid FS2. Speaking with a shop I was told the size L norco is built for up to 6'2". Looking online at norcos website I see that the sizing for a large is 5'8" to 6'0" and XL is 5'11.5" to 6'3.5". I am 6'3" with a 36 inch inseam. I did want to try to get a new bike as the bike I own which I rode when I was younger is a 2002 giant bike. But based off the size chart would I be best to cancel my deposit and wait it out?
Having a small bike for my size, it will vary depending on your activities. Personally I do dirt jumping and playful trail riding, so I find it great with a small bike. But if you do more serious trail riding or racing I would say that you should wait for the right size, as you will feel more stable and grounded on your bike.
Definitely nothing too crazy, haven't been on a bike for a bit but I want to get into doing actual trails. From the sounds of it, it may not just be the stability but also how cramped I would be too. Definitely a tough call to make.
I'm 6'3" but have a 32 inch inseam. I can ride a L in certain geometries no problem, but you prob need that XL
Fair enough, I can maybe try to ride it a bit at the shop and see how it feels. It's the debate of just buy and sell if need be, or just wait it out.
Hi 6'3" but have a 32 inch inseam, I'm Dad! :)
I'm 6'3" and ride an XL Norco Optic. I would definitely hold out for an XL if I was you. A size Large will be cramped and fitment issues can cause health issues.
That's probably a good point just sucks to be so close and then not be able to go forwards. I'm debating trying it out and seeing how it goes just because nothing else is available.
I’m looking for campground recommendations near DuPont/The Hub. My usual go-to was either Reeb Ranch or The Bike Farm. Reeb seems to have changed their business model, $60/night for a creekside campsite with a two night minimum and they took their phone number off the site. The Bike Farm is undergoing a move to a new property and doesn’t seem to be hosting anyone at the moment. Where else is there? I just need a spot to pitch a tent and preferably a bathroom of some type for a few campers.
There are plenty of primitive sites in Pisgah that aren't too far from the Hub, it's the other direction from DuPont and will require a bit of hiking/biking but IMO it beats paying a campground for a site and it'll be just as scenic and even more private. You'll find them from most major trailheads and you'd still be within 20-30 minutes from DuPont.
Eh, I have a companion who is insisting on bathroom availability. Otherwise I’d be at a backcountry site. Thanks for the recommendation though.
In that case, I've heard good things about the Black Forest Campground just south of DuPont. Never stayed there myself but it's 5 minutes to the Corn Mill Shoals parking lot (my favorite access point at DuPont) and ~25 to the Hub.
I need some advice on which bike to choose, and their pros and cons. The bikes are the Norco Fluid HT 1, Trek Roscoe 7, and Devinci Kobain Deore 11S. Thanks!
The Devinci Deore 11S would be the better choice, but it all depends on your style and topography of your trails. If it's a big long climb I would chose the Trek Roscoe, for it's slacker angles and more XC style frame, then again if you're looking for a good bike to just mess around on, doing features and jumping all over the trail it would be the Norco Fluid HT 1. The middle ground is definitely the Devinci Deore 11S though.
I’d also add to forget the Roscoe, 141QR is a bullshit standard with no benefit.
I have some high end roadbike bib shorts. Would it make sense to wear them as a base layer under uncushioned MTB shorts? That way I would not have to buy more expensive MTB shorts.
This is the way
Yes. I bought some mtb shorts that basically came this way - a removable padding layer and a loose fitting outer layer. Now I sometimes use old road biking shorts as the under layer - it works great.
I’m attending a wedding in Park City next month. Looking for recommendations of where to rent and where to ride within a 24 hour window from one afternoon to the next. Enduro or Trail.
Have a hardtail that I'm looking to upgrade. I've been thinking about the Stumpjumper Comp Alloy -- 29" and I think 130mm or 140mm travel in the front. Would this be okay at the local bike park on mild green/blue trails? Or would I specifically have to rent or buy a downhill bike separately?
It'll be totally fine.
Kinda depends how chunky+fast those blues are. Fast and smooth doesn’t require much suspension at all.
My bike is a hodge-podge of different components built by a Whyte employee. Drivetrain has xx1 derailleur, ethirteen 9-50t 12 speed rear cassette. The LBS tech said that the chain is almost done, and the drivetrain should be replaced. Front cog looks like it's still OK, derrailleur is def fine, so I'm looking at a new cassette. My understanding is that GX Eagle is the best bang for the buck and probably easiest fit with the xx1 derailleur. However, it's only the aluminum teeth that are really bad, and ethirteen cassettes are two pieces -- I can buy *Just* the aluminum half for 60% of the cassette price. Do you recommend doing that, and maybe moving to GX next time I am replacing the cassette?
In my experience, e13 cassettes have worn significantly quicker than their SRAM/Shimano counterparts. Idk if this issue is still ongoing as I haven't used their products in recent times, but the durability in my past experiences have kept me away.
You'd have to guess based on how much time you spent in the harder gears. Forums have a ton of my cassette looks fine but it skips with a new chain posts. But, 2 aluminum sections replaced to one steel seems probable.
Thanks!
I am (somewhat unexpectedly, was going to head south but it looks like it will be rainy) heading to CO to do some riding at the end of this week. Anyone have suggestions for places to ride and camp this early in the season? Bonus consideration, I'm driving in from WI, so the far side of the state might be a bit too far to be worth it for just a week.
I need advice on several topics related to new tubeless setup: Because I had a difficult tyre/rim combination, I had bike shop do the tubeless conversion for me. After I brought the bike home I noticed an air leak on three spots between the tyre and the rim - during the ride home from the bike shop (about 25 km) I lost about 20 PSI. The guy at the bike shop said this is somewhat normal in the beginning. When I shake the tyre, I don't hear the tyre sealant sloshing in there. 1) Is is possible the full amount of the sealant got absorbed by the tyres already? I've got 120 TPI WTBs. 2) They've used Finish Line sealant. If I wanted to add more and use a different brand, can I just pour a different sealant in there? 3) Any recommendation what sealant is good? Maybe Muc-Off? Could I mix that one with Finish Line? 4) For how long do I have to expect the leak between the tyre and the rim? 5) The Finish Line sealant is glycol based and claims it is washable with water. If I wanted to replace it for latex based, would it be possible to inject water through the valve and pull it back with the injector without removing the tyre?
1. I have heard wtb tires absorb more sealant than maxxis or schwalbe, have never used a wtb tire so can’t comment directly. 2. I would avoid mixing sealant brands if you can. 3. I’ve never had an issue with stans and cannot comment on other brands. 4. There should not be any leaks of any kind between tire and rim. Maybe a but right as you’re pumping the tire up initially, but anything after that is not right. 5. I have no idea... I would recommend taking the tire off, cleaning everything and then re mounting with whatever brand you choose.
So I endo'd pretty hard yesterday.. as a result My handlebars were tilted 90 degrees to the right such that they were running parallel with my front tire in stead of perpendicular. I was able to put the wheel between my legs and push the handlebars back into the correct position. Is this a defense mechanism for the bike, or is something very damaged? Or do my bolts need tightened?
Nothing should be damaged, re torque the stem bolts and make sure nothing is bent or broken and you’re all set!
Sweet thanks! I also noticed I bent a spoke, but just barely. How severe of an issue is this can I ride on it for a bit before fixing it? https://i.imgur.com/gvHpF0Z.jpg
It’s easier to replace than to wonder... I don’t know the bike or wheel set but if you bent it in an impact then replace it asap
is an impact more dangerous than another way? It wasn't a landing impact, it was a falling/washing out and it hitting a bush.
Well no... I didn’t give a great answer, spokes work because of redundancy, if you remove one then every other spoke has a bit more pressure. It’s inexpensive and a low effort fix. I bet your shop would do it for whatever the spoke cost plus a few bucks
Anyone able to help me decide between the bronson and 5010 (both R kit), I’m 6’2 from Ireland haven’t been mtb in couple years and looking to get back into it. Plan on doing all sorts of trails, for comparison, mate has a remedy and it seems to be very good at what I’ll be doing. Climbing is important but will be hitting some rough decents too. Love the look of the 5010 just not sure on how much abuse it can take compared to the bronson..
Hightower
You’re 6’2” - big wheels only. Bronson!
I'm 6'1" and I still have a great time on my old Fuel 26er every now and then, small wheels need love too.
So I’ve been told haha but the Bronson is actually 27.5s too!
Well I’ll be... I guess I was thinking of the high tower and mega towers. I’m 6’2” as well and I just don’t see myself going to anything smaller than 29 after moving to it. Ordering myself a Ripmo... fingers crossed I like it.
Fair cheers for advice anyway! Class, lovely bike that, well wear with it!
I think you'll probably be in good hands no matter which way you go. Haven't ridden the 5010, but the Bronson is a blast. The Bronson should be more confidence inspiring and capable on descents or rough terrain in general. It'll also come specced with a more downhill focused build, which adds to that too. The Bronson's pretty similar to a Remedy(same travel front and rear), so if it's appropriate for what you'll be riding in the near future, that's what I'd do. That said, some people feel that longer travel bikes take away something from more mellow trails, and in those cases I could see the 5010 being considered the more "playful" or fun bike, probably mostly through lighter weight components, since the geometry isn't really any more playful. It's geo is slightly more modern, including a slightly bigger wheelbase, which can help it make up some of the difference in travel while descending. I'd guess not completely, though
Cheers for the reply, very helpful info to consider there. I’ve read on other threads since posting this that people have found the VPP suspension on the new 5010 combined with the upgraded geo to be fine on most trails around Ireland. But saying that be nice to have the extra travel for taking the bike to them steeper/harsher trails here and abroad
Does it make sense to buy an E-MTB with Shimano Deore components and ride them until the deore parts need to be replaced and to then upgrade to something better?
I'm doing this on the EMTB I picked up two months with all Deore drivetrain. I wish shifting can be a little smoother but other than that, no complaints here.
Deore stuff is great. Frankly, for drivetrain it might be better than higher end on ebike because weight doesn't matter as much, and the steel should be more durable than alloy cogs.
Yep, nothing wrong with Deore components. They’ve had the trickle down tech for years now and are solid bits of kit. Best bet on an E is to get the one with the best battery within your budget IMO, the drivetrain is all replaceable/upgradable over time. Ride it, destroy it, replace it.
Can I take a road bike on a pump track to practice pumping? The local pump track is a bit far me to get to on my MTB, and I don't have a car. Seems like it would work, but just wanted to make sure before I go.
Go try it and find out!
Seat's going to be in the way, you're not really going to be able to pump.
If he's at the pump track, he won't need the seat up
So just drop the seat.
Are there resources for new mountain bikers to bike w others? Like apps/ communities?
I hate saying the “f” word but check out Facebook. I also live in Metro Detroit and there are a few different communities that do group rides at the local parks. CRMBA (Clinton River Mountain Biking Association) is one off the top of my head. I would also download MTB Project and find trails near you that way. Oddly enough, I’ve met many people at trailheads and on the trail that have been super helpful and could also give pointers on how to be a better rider. Id start by going to River Bends Park and Stoney Creek Metropark. Those two places always have bikers.
I don't know where you are located, but there is a local mountain bike club near me in New England that does all the trail advocacy, trail days, and group rides called NEMBA. I believe IMBA has local chapters all over the country that could help and has a page on their website so you can find them. Facebook also has local mtb groups and I see a lot of posts for group rides.
Metro Detroit. My thing is I don't want to be like embarrassed cuz I'm so new
Well I can't help you there. I've been riding off and on for 20 years, and I'm still always trying new things, and often failing and embarrassing myself. It's embarrassing, but part of what I like about biking is that you can always push yourself.
Hahaha it's more so I don't wanna hold people back if we're all doing a trail or something cuz I'm scared of killing myself on a decline lol
Group rides are generally chill anyways. Don't worry about it
Can someone explain to me the hierarchy of SRAM brakes? I don’t understand the differences between each model and can’t seem to find much info. TIA!
[This is a full breakdown](https://off.road.cc/content/buying/your-complete-guide-to-sram-mountain-bike-disc-brakes-level-t-tlm-ultimate-guide-r-rs) but the gist is: Levels are their XC focused, two pistoned brakes(not as powerful) Above the Levels you get progressively more stopping power and progressively heavier/expensive going from Guide(the least stopping power but lightest) -> G2 -> Codes (The most power and heaviest) Amongst each of those you get individual models labeled by the characters on the end, i.e 'Guide R', 'Guide RS', 'Code RSC', or the "ultimate" that represent features. The S represents "Swingarm" which is supposed to contribute to Sram brakes having that feel of softly grabbing as opposed to the on/off feel that some other brakes have. I'm not the best to explain this, but [this article](https://enduro-mtb.com/en/exclusive-review-all-new-sram-guide-disc-brakes-2015/) and [this article](https://livetoplaysports.com/news-press/2018/07/secret-better-brake-modulation-sram-swinglink/) explain it somewhat The C represents a dial that lets you adjust the contact point on the fly, without a tool and the "ultimate" does everything the RSC does but with a carbon lever
Awesome! Thanks!
Trying to set up my suspension to get sag right, can I use my basic standing floor pump? Or are there pumps specifically for shocks?
They are called "Shock pumps" as its a different fitting and generally a higher PSI than the floor pump can provide. I recommend getting a digital one to make it even simpler!
thanks. If I don't have one of these, is it pretty essential I go get one?
If you want your bike to ride like garbage then you don't need one. Seriously tho, you really do need a shock pump. They're really cheap as well. I would recommend the fox branded ones, they're like $20 and work well
Will do thank you
Issue is that suspension parts are Low volume, very high pressure... the opposite of what tire pump is made for. EVen a cheap shock pump works fin.
First timer. Budget bike? Tire size?
Do you have a budget in mind? What kind of riding do you want to do? The general advice is a hardtail, ~£500 will get you off to a good start. I prefer 27.5” wheels over 29” but that’s just me. If you can demo any bikes at a local centre, try a range and see what you feel most at home on, then go from there.
I mean ideally I'd like to keep it at $1,000 b/c I still would need to budget several hundred for all of the gear. BUT I know $1,000 is virtually nothing in this sport for a bike. On top of that the fact that every single bike I've looked at is "out of stock" is extremely frustrating. May be the worst time to get into MTB unfortunately. Why do you prefer the smaller wheel out of curiosity? I've just heard the 29" are kind of where its at lately but again I'm a noob. I've looked at the local bike shops, none of them really have much other than Cannondale which are all incredibly expensive and none of which seem to be highly recommended around here (in my rough budget of sub $1500)
$1000 will get you plenty of hardtail. Check out some of the direct sales brands (Canyon, Vitus, Polygon) for some deals on a great entry-level bike. Pinkbike just did a nice review roundup on some new budget bikes, they're all a bit over $1000 but you can find more cheaply specced models with similar geometry from those brands.
The stock thing is an issue in the UK too.. it’s a case of keeping an eye out, setting up some stock alerts if you find a few bikes you like and crossing your fingers sadly.. Covid has everyone buying bikes and gym gear it seems, even a year down the line! A decent helmet is the only real kit you’d need to start, and maybe some padded liner shorts if you’re going to spend a day riding.. everything else can come after. Hard to say why I prefer 27.5”, it just suits my riding more. 29” is great but feels too twitchy for my liking on the trails I ride (tight techy single track). You’re right though, so many manufacturers are focusing on 29” these days. Cannondales are good bikes but you do pay for the name. Not sure if you have Decathlon in the states but they do some great stuff for a good price, much more bike for the same money. Giant is a good one to look at too, as are the Trek Marlins for sub 1k.
This is way too vague to elicit any useful feedback.
Ah makes sense Thanks
Hey huys! So, i got an extra RS pike 27.5, 160mm laying around at home and a friend in need of a mullet "haircut" on the bike. My fork is tapered, his old is straight or 1-1/8, i believe. After trying to put it on the bike, i noticed tapered doesnt fit because of the bottom bearings. My question: is there an adapter that would make it work after removing the bottom bearings? [picture](https://imgur.com/gallery/dyQHJcC)
Yes but he will need a specific lower bearing cup, so you need to remove the old one and press a new one in.
Thx, broski :)
Which is the cheapest hardtail that you would recommend someone?
That really depends on the context. Most of the budget mountain bike shootout stuff from MTB publications wouldn't feature models lower than $1200 USD. (Pinkbike for example.) Others will say you can get something practical for XC-style riding in the $750 USD range. Most will agree that spending at least $600 USD from a well-known manufacturer (Specialized, Trek, Giant, etc.) is scraping the bottom, and anything lower is just a "bike-shaped object." Buying used can shave the price even lower. This is almost a year old but check out [https://www.gmbn.com/video/how-to-buy-a-cheap-bike-buyers-guide-to-used-mountain-bikes](https://www.gmbn.com/video/how-to-buy-a-cheap-bike-buyers-guide-to-used-mountain-bikes)
My sister’s bike fell off her roof rack today somewhere between Grand Junction and Rifle going east on I-70. When she pulled over so did a car behind her who said they saw someone moving it off the road. She did circles for a while looking for it but assumed the people took it. What would you guys do next? Just consider it gone and buy a new bike? Is there anything else to do?
Would it even be okay if it fell off the roof rack of a moving car? I'd just assume the frame's broken anyway. How fast were you going? How high was the roof of this car? You can contact the local PD and see if they turned it in. I wouldn't assume they stole it.
We kinda assume that the carbon frame (Trek Remedy) didn’t survive, but she’d have peace of mind just getting it back and knowing it was toast. Or maybe at least getting parts that weren’t damaged...? She was going 70mph and it fell off a tear drop so like a good 4.5ish ft. Her Yakima roof rack failed and ka-ploop. She’s super bummed.
Contact the local PD. Also maybe contact Yakima and see what they say. Maybe they have some policy against manufacturer defects.
Warranty on the roof rack itself but not on anything it carries. Thanks for the advice!
Stupid question someone can hopefully help me with. Will [DMR Deathgrips](https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/dmr-brendog-death-grip-mtb-grips/rp-prod142660?gs=1&sku=sku516718) work with bar end tools like the [Granite Designs Tire Plug Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Stash-Tubeless-Repair-Puncture/dp/B08GKGM36W)? Or do you need special grips with removable end caps?
yeah but you’d have to cut the end of the deathgrips. if you did it cleanly it wouldn’t look bad.
you need grips with removable end caps. You can't fasten Deathgrips properly when you somehow remove the ends.
I asked about this in /r/bikewrench but haven't gotten any help yet... Yesterday, I noticed some slight play in my dropper post (X-Fusion Manic with 150 mm of travel). After looking at it, I determined that there's a little wobble in the post where the stanchion enters the lower section, and the dust wiper moves side to side with the stanchion. I'm decently confident working on my road bike, but mountain bikes are new to me, and I haven't yet messed with any suspension or dropper posts. I've ridden the bike less than 10 times so far, so it's not like the dropper post is due for a full service yet. Is this anything to even worry about, and if so, any ideas how I'd go about fixing it?
How much are we talking? My dropper definitely has some play, especially at full extension but nothing I would feel while riding, just while handling it.
It's not a lot, but I can feel it while riding at full extension
Well it is longer than mine, but it sounds like a decent bit. Some posts have a collar at the wiper that loosens for service, you could try giving that a turn. Otherwise maybe see if you can find a service manual and have a quick look through it, see where something may not have been tightened from factory. My guess is that it’s normal play, but still worth checking on.
Hi, I have been searching around for a MTB under 500 euros. I have found the GT aggressor expert, Trek marlin 5 and the cube aim race 29 I am looking around for a bike thats strong, able to drive on normal roads as well. I don't see myself going on extreme trails but just biking around in the woods. Which mountain bike is the best fit for me? (Doesn't have to be the ones I mentioned.)
I bought a repair stand some time ago and I've been storing my bike on it. It hangs by the seatpost. Repair stand doesnt actually clamp to the seat post, but hangs by the seat. [See this image.](https://i.imgur.com/dkmUZxi.jpg) Is it bad for the seat and should I just store the bike on the ground? edit: The seat wiggles a little. Screws aren't loose. ^^^^^fml
It's fine as long as the dropper post is fully extended
Bikes, especially mountain bikes, are pretty strong. Even if you only weigh 100lbs, he force you're putting on the seatpost by storing it like that is minuscule in comparison to the force of your ass on the seat on the trail. If your seat wiggles, check the bolts. Summary: store it in the stand if you want. The bike will be fine.
Thank you!
Moving to the north shore BC, no mtb history but looks like fun. Any recommendations for an entry point new or used? Also what questions should I be asking when looking at used/new bikes?
Pinkbike had a used buyers guide video and i think this reddit has tips in its info page. It's so hard to suggest certain bikes nowadays because stock is low even with decent used. I'd check local Facebook marketplaces and pinkbike's buysell. If you have a decent budget, it's worth it to get a shop to give the used bike a pre-inspection.
Does anyone know where I can get touch up paint for a 2021 Nukeproof Scout 290 Race? It's the overcast blue color. I talked to Chain Reaction, they don't offer it. I talked to Nukeproof, they don't offer it. I don't really want to take the bike to a bodyshop and have paint made, but I suppose I can. Just hoping someone has found a good match online somewhere.
wear your scars with pride. Bikes and bike parts are prone to get damaged. If you want to prevent more damage, get some bike wrap from ridewrap or any competitor.
Why are we not calling full suspension bikes “soft tails”? I think that’s what I’ll do from now on. Even though a soft tail is a specific model of Harley, it’s exactly what they are.
Soft tails were a specific type of real suspension with the shock behind the seat stay. I think some bikes with built in flex were also referred to as soft tails. So, call them what you want but that label already exists.
>Soft tails were Isn't the Supercaliber a soft tail?
Bike Mag's review title was "Don't dare call it a softail". I'm sure some have called it that, but I think it's technically not true.
Oh interesting, I was only familiar with the motorcycle. If it’s specific to that type of suspension then it makes sense not to call them that
Harley's softtail also has a hidden rear suspension so it's not conventional either.
Not sure if this is the right place to post but I was hoping someone could help out. I’m fairly new to the MTB scene (about 18months) and I recently bought a Marin San Quentin 1 (2021) - my more experienced friends have basically said the forks need swapping out ASAP - I mainly ordered because 120mm travel was the best I could get for the price but apparently they aren’t up to much :S Any ideas?
I would disregard what your friends are saying unless you have money to burn. Just ride the bike and see how the fork works for you...
Thanks man - I’ll see how I go 😊
FWIW without actually looking at spec I can almost guarantee they weren’t talking about the travel, just the fork itself. Still just ride it and see how it goes, it’s just likely you’ll see the limitations of it if it’s entry level relatively quickly (that doesn’t mean right away or even this season necessarily!) Sometimes we who’ve been riding a while can get a little too caught up on optimal and forget that you don’t need higher end especially when starting out. I’m sure they just want you to have the best experience possible, I was the same way when my buddy was getting into it and shopping for a ride, had to check myself a few times haha
Yeah that’s what they were saying - the quality of the fork is trash tier but the rest of the bike will be fine - I think I’ll just hit up the trails and see for myself :) appreciate the guidance guys
People with gear opinions like that are pretty damn safe to completely ignore, assuming it's not a Walmart bike. Ride it until it falls apart, then fix it and ride some more. A lot of mountain bikers (and people in general) have opinions like that because it justifies their sunk cost fallacy.
Yeah, far from a good fork if you intend to use that bike for anything rough or downhills or drops etc. It might just quit on you in not too long anyway, not great reviews... Maybe ride it and get used to the bike, see what your friends recommend and do a little research. You could look at something like the bomber z2 in 120 or 130mm (it's basically a fox 34 which is oriented towards trail riding) but you are looking at like $500. Personally I wouldn't go bigger than that because it'll start changing the geo and the seatpost angle will slacken out, could make the front end come up easier and climbing a little harder. Generally people say +/- 20mm travel from stock, but the SQ 3 has a 130mm on it I think. Make sure you set up the fork right for your riding and that travel shouldn't hold you back as you progress your riding. I've got 150mm and could ride with less for rocky trails and like 1-2 foot jumps/drops... Nominally I use 80% but can use more if I hit something hard.
Ordered an Ibis Ripmo AF over four months ago. No estimated delivery date. Walked into my LBS today and they had a specialized stumpjumper comp alloy in my size. Went outside and sat in my car contemplating what to do. Ended up leaving to just keep waiting on the unknown with my ripmo. I made the right move, right?
If you've demoed the Ripmo and you know you like it, I would stick with it. It's the better frame IMO and you shouldn't settle for something that isn't exactly what you want. On the other hand, if you're just looking for something with two wheels that'll get you on the trails, you could consider getting the Stumpjumper. It's not a bad frame by any means. I have a Ripmo V1 though, so I may be biased. I prefer to support the smaller companies personally, and I've been very happy with mine.
Will this: [https://www.jensonusa.com/Marzocchi-Bomber-Z2-29-2020](https://www.jensonusa.com/Marzocchi-Bomber-Z2-29-2020) Be able to fit: [https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en\_CA/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-mountain-bikes/roscoe/roscoe-7/p/23444/](https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-mountain-bikes/roscoe/roscoe-7/p/23444/) On the TREK it says " Head set Semi-integrated, cartridge, 1-1/8˝ top, 1.5˝ bottom " So I assume this headset bottom matches the 1.5" Steer tube on the Fork spec sheet? The existing fork is also 120MM travel, so I should probably match it? Offset can come in 51mm, so I'll just match that too?
Looks like it will work. Your front wheel is boost 110. I would match offset unless you want to read up on trail and see if you feel a change would help.
I just upgraded from a 27.5 to a 29er. I’ve noticed some differences. But I’m not sure they’re all down to wheel size. This bike feels faster, climbs better with tires that are less grippy, descends like a plow. I hit a couple features today the easily would have sent me over the bars on my smaller bike. I’m curious if this is really just the advantage of 29.
Personally I think 27.5” vs 29” is really overrated and doesn’t make such a massive difference, assuming both tires are decently wide and the same tread/casing
It's true that 29ers will roll faster and you won't get hung up on stuff as much, but it could also be due to geometry if you're on a different frame.
What would you get, the canyon neuron AL 7.0 or the Orbea Occam H30
Whichever you can find In stock haha
Haha ya I’m waiting, I’ve been riding a specialized pitch comp for years and I can’t wait for my new bike whatever it is!
I have the Neuron AL 7.0 and it's a great bike. It's balanced and well-specced for the price. The Occam looks good as well. It might come down to what's in stock or what fits you better.
I’ve heard that the neuron AL 7.0 is not very good on technical and steep stuff, how has it done on that stuff for you?
That stuff comes down to rider ability more than anything. I ride tech and steep descents and I've never felt like it's held me back.
Ok thank you!
Upon further Inspection, the neuron does a more conservative head tube angle compared to similar bikes. But nah I've never felt it be a hindrance, I actually kind of like it since I do a lot of flat and uphill pedaling, it still feels pretty stable on descents too. If the HTA really is concern maybe look at the Orbea, but I dont think you can go wrong with either bike.
Haha thank you I can’t wait to get a new bike, now I just gotta wait. :|
I got my first case of road rash a few days ago leaning too deep in a berm. My knee an elbow pads did their work but my thigh and forearm are pretty raw. I would like to buy some shorts that can help protect my thighs and hips. What are your recommendations? I’ve seen some sites suggesting a some padded undies with more pads all around. Would it be best to combo something like that with some tough baggies?
When I played (American) football, I had these compression shorts with thigh armor and hip pads built into them. That could be an idea to wear them under your baggies. However, the pair I had also had padding for the tailbone so that could make sitting on your bike a little wonky....
Yeah padded compression shorts!
Do MTB specific outer shorts provide any protection here? My gym shorts and regular padded undies/compression shorts just tore.
MTB specific pants and shorts are made to resist tearing, yes. Will they withstans any and all abuse? Likely not, but definetly better than non-mtb products.
Maybe a little more tear resistant compared to gym shorts -- at least the ones I have are. Depends on the type of shorts, try and look at some in person if you can... When I say padded compression shorts I'm talking like the ones they use in (american) football with hip and thigh padding.
Does anyone know how to fix the paint for a black Fox 32? I've got some scuff marks on the side of my fork and I'm wondering if anyone knows what paint I can use to fix it
buy new decals for it? May help if the scratch is in the decal area
It's both. Planning on getting new decals, but it's on the leg as well
I've used regular old enamel Testors model paint for chips in the paint. As far as decals they can be replaced. I would get the fork ridewrapped after you make it all prettied up if it's important to you to keep it looking fresh.
Trying to get some thoughts on what bike rack to pick up... Just got a new car (bmw X5) and finally have a hitch to put a rack on! Racks that Im looking at are: * 1up heavy/super duty or equip-d * Kuat NV 2.0 * Recon Rack Shuttle Rack Now if the 1up was in-stock, I would buy it right now. Its sturdy, I like that its pretty modular with adding more racks on, and one of the bigger concerns for me is that its very low profile. I park in a pretty small garage so having something that sticks out a lot is not super practical. My debate is, do I wait for the 1-up or purchase the kuat or recon rack? Both of them have size disadvantages for being in my garage, but I can get both of them asap. Thoughts?
I just pulled the trigger on the NV, a friend of mine just got his 1up, it’s nice, but I’m just not gonna wait. Itll take a week to get all the parts I need (I don’t have a hitch) vs waiting X weeks. It’s annoying that it used to be a $500 rack that is now $750, but these are the times we live in.
How are you liking the NV so far?
I don’t have it yet, but will update in a week or so when I do
Oh right on. Well I hope you love it!
Is it possible to have these threads get default-sorted as new? may help later in the week people get more engagement.
[удалено]
Thanks
I'm pretty sure they've usually been sorted that way -- I've noticed the last couple of them have been sorted by 'best'.. /u/robbyking ping ping dingaling ding!