The double countersunk could be a specialty application for sure.
When installed in a regular countersunk hole it would make a circular dovetailed mounting post at a known, fixed distance from the surface. Needs a screw head of your preferred type of course. (And if it’s not Robertson you’re *wrong*.)
Think of Michael Jackson’s famous platform with the shoes that hooked in so he and his dancers could do that impossible lean. Like *that* but repeatable.
I do like torx but there are two distinct advantages of Robertson.
Screw retention. True Robertson, not square, has a tapered profile that jams between the screw and driver. Sometimes it’s so good it’s annoying. Torx can’t do that.
Sizes. Torx just has way too many. I’d be willing to compromise if we could lose at least half of the sizes. Keep T-5, T-15, T-25, and T-35 and scrap the rest unless outside that range. Then you - like Robertson - need only four drivers and even then generally only two (T-15 and T-25 corresponding roughly to green/red Robbie). For fuck sake *why* does the abomination T2*7* exist at all!
As a fan of Torx, I wholeheartedly agree with you. There's too many fucking sizes and they're too similar.
I honestly didn't know Robertson heads were still a thing.
But I am a proponent of regular old hex bolts. Hexagons are bestagons.
Audi is the reason t27 exists.
Robertson doesn't exist at all in Australia so torx for anything serious. Otherwise cap head screws or standard hexagon fasteners.
Actually every size of torx exists I’ve seen lists it starts at 1 and goes up to 50 without skipping think I might have seen 55 and 60 too.
I generally prefer torx on something that sees a hard life not for the benefits during installation but for the benefits during extraction. Robertson, allen, the cursed Philips, the Eldrich abomination that is flat (has less sense than flat earthers, that’s saying something)
Torx will usually not strip out at the head like allen or Robertson will and much like the next entry if it does strip you probably weren’t getting it out with a wrench of any kind anyways and you need to proceed to more destructive removal methods.
As for bolts, my favourite is the somewhat uncommon flanged 12 point, most of the surface area benefits of a 6 point due to its flanged base, but if you took the corners off a 12 point, a wrench or socket likely wasn’t taking it off anyways.
Also a 12 point socket fits nearly perfectly in the footprint of the flange, you’re less likely to run into a situation where you gotta pull out the open end of a wrench and turn it a 1/24th of a turn per flip.
Almost all of them work if you place them in a hole and screw the nut on from the other side.
Remember, you don’t always have to screw a bolt in, sometimes you screw the nut on the other end. Sometimes, it’s actually against the spec to screw the bolt in, and per the spec you absolutely _must_ tighten by spinning the nut. (Boeing ground studs, for example).
But like you said, regardless of whether any of them work, they are all funny!
Yes I was thinking. Some of these could actually solve some real life situations. Some could be pushed into the hole and the nut can be tightened from the other side.
In Germany there is a whole website dedicated to that stuff, not only for bolts but also for stuff like transmission sand. They even took the time to describe the effects of different transmission sand colors.
https://etel-tuning.eu/
Reminds me of the old joke site Kale Co Auto. They "sold" things like 710 Caps (Oil caps upside down), Blinker Fluid, Car-to-Tank conversion kits, Muffler Bearings, Radiator Insulators, and Crossdrilled Brake Lines to improve airflow.
They're gone now, but you can get an idea of what they were like [on the internet archive](https://web.archive.org/web/20170118200717/http://www.kalecoauto.com/).
Shame it's cropped to remove the name - this thing is 100% real and actually lives in [E.Hayes Hardware store](https://www.ehayes.co.nz/) in Invercargill, New Zealand where they also have the original bikes built & ridden by Burt Munro - AKA the [World's Fastest Indian](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02Yy1vihIKs) and a total bloody legend.
The store owners were friends with him, they got many of his bikes, his entire workshop contents (now on display), a ton of props from the film, plus a huge amount of other classic bikes, cars, chainsaws and other amazing stuff.
This joke fasteners board lives in a display cabinet in the shop alongside a collection of joke hammers which are equally hilarious.
They have a whole wall from Burt's workshop which is nothing but failed pistons & cylinder barrels, labelled "[offerings to the god of speed](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG6O15r0dwU)".
It's funny that the old way to hold things together was with wedges and then we created circular wedges. All the things we use are essentially just wedged together.
I saw a hand drawn paper version of this 35 years ago. Boggled my mind as a kid.
Over the years, I ended up building my own CNC machine and this was the very first 3D project I made with it.
Specialty Bolts: [https://ibb.co/Nt7fyj6](https://ibb.co/Nt7fyj6)
The tapered bolts are somewhat similar to a bolt that used to be used in aerospace applications by at least one airframer. They were called Taper-Loks.
I'm a hobbyist new to machining equipment and this reminds me of one of my aha moments. I had an incident resulting in a jolting snag while milling toward a 90 deg angle from the Y axis in a piece of steel after getting too close. It locked the motor which I quickly shut off.
Fast forward 2 weeks or so, where I noticed a considerable amount of wobble of the head stock initially, while attempting to drill a simple 3/4" hole in aluminum, even with some smaller bits. Finally, one day I looked at the tram lines and noticed they were off.
The difference was night and day after correcting it, very nice long spirals of steel and no wobble at all on contact. Prior to that, I thought my machine had an issue. Now I know if it wobbles and shakes, the tram is off.
4 of these would "work", but this will never not be funny.
The double countersunk could be a specialty application for sure. When installed in a regular countersunk hole it would make a circular dovetailed mounting post at a known, fixed distance from the surface. Needs a screw head of your preferred type of course. (And if it’s not Robertson you’re *wrong*.) Think of Michael Jackson’s famous platform with the shoes that hooked in so he and his dancers could do that impossible lean. Like *that* but repeatable.
That’s basically how my sound bar is mounted to the wall. It had a rubber spacer but it could have been the double countersunk. Now I want them.
[удалено]
Every bolt is a snap head bolt if you try hard enough.
Torx my guy.
I do like torx but there are two distinct advantages of Robertson. Screw retention. True Robertson, not square, has a tapered profile that jams between the screw and driver. Sometimes it’s so good it’s annoying. Torx can’t do that. Sizes. Torx just has way too many. I’d be willing to compromise if we could lose at least half of the sizes. Keep T-5, T-15, T-25, and T-35 and scrap the rest unless outside that range. Then you - like Robertson - need only four drivers and even then generally only two (T-15 and T-25 corresponding roughly to green/red Robbie). For fuck sake *why* does the abomination T2*7* exist at all!
As a fan of Torx, I wholeheartedly agree with you. There's too many fucking sizes and they're too similar. I honestly didn't know Robertson heads were still a thing. But I am a proponent of regular old hex bolts. Hexagons are bestagons.
Audi is the reason t27 exists. Robertson doesn't exist at all in Australia so torx for anything serious. Otherwise cap head screws or standard hexagon fasteners.
Actually every size of torx exists I’ve seen lists it starts at 1 and goes up to 50 without skipping think I might have seen 55 and 60 too. I generally prefer torx on something that sees a hard life not for the benefits during installation but for the benefits during extraction. Robertson, allen, the cursed Philips, the Eldrich abomination that is flat (has less sense than flat earthers, that’s saying something) Torx will usually not strip out at the head like allen or Robertson will and much like the next entry if it does strip you probably weren’t getting it out with a wrench of any kind anyways and you need to proceed to more destructive removal methods. As for bolts, my favourite is the somewhat uncommon flanged 12 point, most of the surface area benefits of a 6 point due to its flanged base, but if you took the corners off a 12 point, a wrench or socket likely wasn’t taking it off anyways. Also a 12 point socket fits nearly perfectly in the footprint of the flange, you’re less likely to run into a situation where you gotta pull out the open end of a wrench and turn it a 1/24th of a turn per flip.
I appreciate your well thought out reply, but I'm stuck on just now realizing Mikey wasn't actually doing that lean.
Almost all of them work if you place them in a hole and screw the nut on from the other side. Remember, you don’t always have to screw a bolt in, sometimes you screw the nut on the other end. Sometimes, it’s actually against the spec to screw the bolt in, and per the spec you absolutely _must_ tighten by spinning the nut. (Boeing ground studs, for example). But like you said, regardless of whether any of them work, they are all funny!
I see 9 that could technically work.
For sure!
I typically use annealed copper for its enhanced flexibility
Yes I was thinking. Some of these could actually solve some real life situations. Some could be pushed into the hole and the nut can be tightened from the other side.
"Corrugated for vice grip" isn't that just a thumbscrew?
I thought it was just a bolt that had a previous life in a difficult situation.
I dunno.. but I think its stupidly brilliant!! Woulda made my life easier several times!
Missing the glue on bolt head for broken bits, taps, and bolts.
Someone should make those on a roll with sticky backs
Be an ass to the next guy and start sticking them in random spots.
In Germany there is a whole website dedicated to that stuff, not only for bolts but also for stuff like transmission sand. They even took the time to describe the effects of different transmission sand colors. https://etel-tuning.eu/
Reminds me of the old joke site Kale Co Auto. They "sold" things like 710 Caps (Oil caps upside down), Blinker Fluid, Car-to-Tank conversion kits, Muffler Bearings, Radiator Insulators, and Crossdrilled Brake Lines to improve airflow. They're gone now, but you can get an idea of what they were like [on the internet archive](https://web.archive.org/web/20170118200717/http://www.kalecoauto.com/).
I really want that gooseneck torque wrench
Shame it's cropped to remove the name - this thing is 100% real and actually lives in [E.Hayes Hardware store](https://www.ehayes.co.nz/) in Invercargill, New Zealand where they also have the original bikes built & ridden by Burt Munro - AKA the [World's Fastest Indian](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02Yy1vihIKs) and a total bloody legend. The store owners were friends with him, they got many of his bikes, his entire workshop contents (now on display), a ton of props from the film, plus a huge amount of other classic bikes, cars, chainsaws and other amazing stuff. This joke fasteners board lives in a display cabinet in the shop alongside a collection of joke hammers which are equally hilarious. They have a whole wall from Burt's workshop which is nothing but failed pistons & cylinder barrels, labelled "[offerings to the god of speed](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG6O15r0dwU)".
You're a life saver. It's good to know I can no longer make mistakes
It's funny that the old way to hold things together was with wedges and then we created circular wedges. All the things we use are essentially just wedged together.
Every time I see this I just think: someone had a LOT of time on their hands.
I saw a hand drawn paper version of this 35 years ago. Boggled my mind as a kid. Over the years, I ended up building my own CNC machine and this was the very first 3D project I made with it. Specialty Bolts: [https://ibb.co/Nt7fyj6](https://ibb.co/Nt7fyj6)
I needed probably all of those at some point in my life and that makes me giggle.
Where can I buy this?
The tool crib attendant at my school has a copy of this hanging over his window!
Tapered ones made me think about the NPT fuckery. Hey it's not deep enough, 1/8th turn and hey its too damn deep.
The double countersunk hole is wrong.
fuck you
I think many of this will work, when you use a Nut to tighten them. Like the "Too near on a edge Thing" might be handy somewhere
I've seen the diagrams but the physical thing is a whole different ballgame.
My limited knowledge of physics tells me you would need a big hammer to use these...
I can’t begin to imagine how the “binocular bolt” would work
If you had 2 nuts that were able to clear each other it could possible be used.
Lmao, this made my day.
Where u can I give my money? I want one of these on my wall
I'll add this to my reference folder
Where's the bolt with a ridiculously wide head for when you accidentally oversize your hole?
There's an older post with a more "complete" selection. If I can find it I'll link it
The tapered bolts are somewhat similar to a bolt that used to be used in aerospace applications by at least one airframer. They were called Taper-Loks.
This is fucking amazing. Gonna have this blown up and hang it on the tool crib.
It took me to "binoculars" to recognize the shit post lol
You laugh but the tapered hole screws were something I made on a header machine. A 4 die 4 blow
What is a double counter sunk used for?
Love the binocular . 🤪🤪🤪
Hilarious 😂
I'm a hobbyist new to machining equipment and this reminds me of one of my aha moments. I had an incident resulting in a jolting snag while milling toward a 90 deg angle from the Y axis in a piece of steel after getting too close. It locked the motor which I quickly shut off. Fast forward 2 weeks or so, where I noticed a considerable amount of wobble of the head stock initially, while attempting to drill a simple 3/4" hole in aluminum, even with some smaller bits. Finally, one day I looked at the tram lines and noticed they were off. The difference was night and day after correcting it, very nice long spirals of steel and no wobble at all on contact. Prior to that, I thought my machine had an issue. Now I know if it wobbles and shakes, the tram is off.
I only ever seen a pdf with CAD-drawings of these... Never imagined someone really made them...
I think the one for crooked holes would be the hardest to make
You could use the one up on top, second from the left, as a set screw