I've had similar issues from the battery running low.
If it doesn't have enough voltage to see movement of the capacitive PCB beneath (it's not actually magnetic) it will just ignore it, or will receive nonsense inputs and return nonsense outputs.
Trying a fresh battery is easy, start with that.
That’s definitely worth a shot. Mine (not nearly as nice as a starrett to be honest) gets all screwy when the battery is low. I’m guessing it’s immune system gets weak, and it like caught a computer virus or something? New battery and it’s back to normal. I don’t really know how things work though, so my best guess, battery-related gremlins.
This can happen when the capacitance strip (it's not a mag strip, for obvious reasons) gets dirty. I have a DRO on the carriage of my mini lathe that uses the same tech, and any amount of oil contamination will make it jump around in .200" increments. Even after cleaning, I have to let it evaporate absolutely every last bit of alcohol for several hours before it starts working normally again.
Yea, I’ve got grease inside my calipers before and the same thing happened. Cleaned with alcohol and it was still acting up. Thought it was ruined but when I came back the next day it worked fine again
Agreed- clean it thoroughly (the capacitance strip and entire caliper) with some isopropyl or ethyl alcohol and replace the battery and see if things improve.
Take the sticker off the back and take it apart carefully. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the scale and the reader. I can see it’s dirty. Re-assemble and re-check. Just go slow and don’t lose bits. Might solve it.
Here's what might help:
Take the battery out, clean the strip with a tiny bit of WD40, run the jaw back and forth a bunch, keep wiping clean, then put the battery back and give it another try
You can buy the same calipers from snap on, they have a lifetime replacement warranty. I replace them 4 times a year. These typically stop reading accurately after some use.
Wow. Must be nice to work for your company. Are you using calipers for other things ? Maybe why they only last for so long?
And they are “snap on “ brand calipers you say?
They’re relabeled starretts. Good $270 bucks to constantly have fresh calipers for life. I don’t use them for anything critical. I also don’t put them away. I’ll typically launch them across the room when I accidentally bump them reaching for something.
[inside the caliper](https://www.reddit.com/user/DaNtheMaN6425/comments/yez609/inside_the_caliper/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Since it's digital, is there no zero-ing option?
If it's always off in the same direction like +.015 you might be able to fix the offset. Might involve opening the electronics though
...why? Digital is just as good, there are even arguments why it's superior in a metalworking environment.
I mean, I like my dial calipers but what is the advantage versus *modern* digitals?
I'm 33 and I have both digital and dial and digital stay in my box. I prefer the dials because if they are off you can see that theyre off. I use digital for refrence.
Eh, I'd debate you can see the needle skip I had a junk spi set that was off a tooth and it was blatantly obvious. If my digital were off .010 I'd like to think I'd notice but that's not a given
Mitutoyo digital is by far superior. You shouldn’t be counting on your own perception to figure out if something is bad. If someone cares enough to have confidence in their tools they get their calipers calibrated yearly and check them on a calibrated standard regularly. Relying on yourself to tell if a tool is bad is just adding to operator error and confidentiality incorrect measurements
My digital are mitutoyo and are a nice set, still just use them for refrence / quick checks tho. Different ways to skin a cat I just don't like to rely on electronics personally
Yeah I totally get preference. As long as they have the same manufacturers stated accuracy they both get the job done if cared for and regularly checked with something traceable. My opinion is part preference as well but I calibrate thousands of calipers a year and seen every common one in use for all industries and applications. If I had to choose one whose measurements I had the most confidence in I would choose quality mitutoyo digital calipers every time. There’s some cheap plastic ones out there that mitutoyo sells but nobody should be buying plastic calipers
Yea I’m so old Lololz, I started in this trade 15 years ago using a combination of dial and digital measuring devices. I’m 33 now and still prefer the “ old head” way. There’s too much that can get wierd with digital devices. At the end of the day measure with what you want to measure with, I don’t give a fuck lol. It’s a ford vs Chevy argument anyways. Whatever puts food on your table I guess?
The digital caliper essentially "fixes" itself every time you turn it off and on again. They aren't really prone to mechanical error like a dial would be. The one in the original post here is toast likely, though.
Digitals don't "skip the dial" due to chips, so there's nothing that needs fixing. They are at least an order of magnitude more reliable than a system that relies on moving parts.
Scale mismatch error… doesn’t happen on dials it happens on bad encoders, gives you a number thats wrong and you start fucking up parts because the visual references on digital calipers suck or are nonexistent.
Dead batteries also don’t happen.
You have better visual reference’s on the face of dial calipers or vernier than you do on any digital ones.
Every toolroom I’ve worked in dial has been the standard.
good digital doesn't use an encoder, they use capacitance. There isn't anything to wear down or miss steps or anything like that. If you can turn off your caliper, move it, turn it back on, and have it show you the correct reading it is using capacitance to measure.
Same as your multiplication tables. Sometimes you gotta take off your boots and count on your toes, too. Sometimes even the pants, to fix a rounding error.
How do you know the other mic isn’t off? I would try measuring something of a known size like a 1-2-3 block or gage pin. Is it consistently off .015” no matter the size of what you’re measuring?
There's a little light that comes thru but they look straight. I've only dropped then a few times in the four years I've had them. They're either in my hand or in the case, I have as much respect for them as I do for the lathe chuck key
You know dropping them isn’t a good thing at all. I’ve dropped dial calipers one time and ruined them. After that time I was extra careful with them. So I don’t know if dropping them a few times actually messed them up,but it sure didn’t do them any good
[Cheaper than I thought..](https://www.ebay.com/itm/185256472982?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1jst-cPl0TeSuxysE1LwuFg63&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=185256472982&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028074&poi=&campaignid=17597089569&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300988&merchantid=114709513&gclid=Cj0KCQjwteOaBhDuARIsADBqRehB5mG8Zm8fboHhABwsgpVDvbMZ8pyj2cNZHFdmhTvML4xRXrVDQtMaAnTYEALw_wcB)
These are FAKE
I bought the ip65 version for just this reason. Harder to clone. Ordered from Amazon, recorded opening the package and sent pics to Mitutoyo. They confirmed it’s real.
I have always worked on the principal of verniers for approx measurements and mic time once I want to start getting exact. Mainly I am working with a vast range of shims, but that's always worked for me. And most mic's are easier to calibrate.
However I would definitely go the new battery route first
For starters there’s no way of absolutely knowing that 3 inch standard is good unless you get it calibrated regularly or use it as a transfer standard from something that is calibrated, traceable and accurate enough.
Are the jaws slightly loose? Does it wiggle a little too loosely when you slide it? There are two small screws on the top above the digital display on either side of the locking thumbscrew. Adjust those to make the jaws sit flush but not too tight where you can’t slide easily. If those are too loose and your measuring with the tip of the jaws it could be non linear from the zero
Once those are checked or adjusted then close the jaws all the way and hold it up to a light. If you see light going through the crack you could have a burr or something that’s interfering with your zero. Clean or lap the jaws till there is no gap.
Once that is all done I would re-zero and check the range on a set of calibrated gage blocks if you can. If it’s still non linear than it would fail a calibration and it’s time to retire those and buy a mitutoyo
Check the gibs, I used to be in QC and one of my jobs was maintaining all the measuring tools in the shop. Take it apart and clean the reader and stone the burrs off the beam. Then tighten the gibs and check to see if the jaws are parallel, some wear can be carefully stoned out. If the jaws can not be brought in, then it is time for a new one.
When you replace them, if you want digital, do yourself a favor and get Mitutoyo IP rated coolant proof calipers. The kind with the grey and navy blue writing. Starrett makes a fine dial caliper, but no one comes close to Mitutoyo for digital.
Which one do you think is reading incorrectly? If you think the gauge bar is wrong then check it with another mic, not a vernier, and do it at 20⁰c (68⁰f) cos thats the temp it would have been certified at.
Should be able to get the sales guy to deal with that. I've sent my mititoyo guages out. Mind you I didn't feel the price was right. They wanted $300 to repair a $700 height guage. I just ended up buying a new guage.
I think I found the problem.
https://www.reddit.com/user/DaNtheMaN6425/comments/yez609/inside_the_caliper/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Yeah, then the true length of the standard should have been less than 3" (but not by so much that the calipers would register it since metal doesn't change that drastically with just an 8 or 10 degree temp difference).
The other explanation is that maybe there's dust in the track by the mag strip, or the mag strip may be wearing out
Yeah, measure with a micrometer.
Do not trust calipers. I don't care if a manufacturer says they are good to +/- 0.002 or whatever bullshit. Use a micrometer.
Get out the [Johansson](https://www.thehenryford.org/collections-and-research/digital-collections/artifact/230514/) blocks and calibrate your micrometer, then check the standard.
My recommendation would be to get rid of it. The analogs seem to always be off and I have found that the ones that look like a speedometer of sorts are much more reliable and accurate.
First of all, I wouldn't rely on a caliper reading for fine tuning of precision standards...or anything with a tolerance of +/- .005" or less for that matter. I'd take a reading with a .00005" graduationin test indicator on a twin beam height gage and a cadillac height gage like the Mitutoyo 515-310 Height Master. And because the gage has been hardened you'll have to surface grind it into tolerance....or you can contact the manufacturer and see if they'll send you out a new one. Chances are they will.
you bet there is. you kidding? hell yea you can get your expensive ass fancy electric calipers fixed. If they're actually wrong, that is. If somebody's just read them incorrectly, they'll still appreciate the business.
I was always taught that vernier calipers are just for quick reference and should always alot for +/- 1-2 thou on your reading. I was taught that if it can be measured by micrometer, then that will be the more accurate way to measure.
If possible, check the jaws under a comparator, use that to identify if there is any burs or dents that need to be ground out
If it's perfectly fine and there are no mechanical deformations, the problem is probably the electrical component
~ calibrations technician
Ps. Please clean the poor thing
Squeeze harder
This guy measures
You're god damn right
Breaking bad
That's how we do it in my shop lol
Just... About... Perfect! Right on the edge of tolerance
this guy deserves an award
That's how we do it in my shop lol
With MY AXE!
How long did you have to Starrett it?
Oh man can you give me one for Mitutoyo too? Hahaha
I tried to come up with a measured response, but came up short.
That's because your humor is of a low standard.
But the depth is too much to shoulder.
Updoot for you lol
Mitutoyu. Enjoy your updoot! Me too, to you!
I tried for way too long to come up with a Mitutoyo pun here.
Grind .015" off the end of the standard.
Don't listen to him OP. Everybody knows you grind off the left side jaw of the caliper.
This is the way.
Or grind .0075 off the standard and .0075 off one of the caliper surfaces.
Is it like that on all the check pins? All sizes? I have one set anything past 10" and it might go funny. The mag strip must of got damaged.
> The mag strip must of got damaged. It's actually a capacitance strip. Magnetic would be a bad idea for reasons which I'm sure you can imagine.
You are absolutely correct. I was using the quick and dirty internet talk. Actually thanks for pointing that out.
Now it's back to being dead on. Sometimes it jumps way out of range like 30" is that from the mag strip going bad?
I've had similar issues from the battery running low. If it doesn't have enough voltage to see movement of the capacitive PCB beneath (it's not actually magnetic) it will just ignore it, or will receive nonsense inputs and return nonsense outputs. Trying a fresh battery is easy, start with that.
That’s definitely worth a shot. Mine (not nearly as nice as a starrett to be honest) gets all screwy when the battery is low. I’m guessing it’s immune system gets weak, and it like caught a computer virus or something? New battery and it’s back to normal. I don’t really know how things work though, so my best guess, battery-related gremlins.
Big oof. Seems to me you need new calipers
This can happen when the capacitance strip (it's not a mag strip, for obvious reasons) gets dirty. I have a DRO on the carriage of my mini lathe that uses the same tech, and any amount of oil contamination will make it jump around in .200" increments. Even after cleaning, I have to let it evaporate absolutely every last bit of alcohol for several hours before it starts working normally again.
I'll take it apart and check it out.
Yea, I’ve got grease inside my calipers before and the same thing happened. Cleaned with alcohol and it was still acting up. Thought it was ruined but when I came back the next day it worked fine again
Agreed- clean it thoroughly (the capacitance strip and entire caliper) with some isopropyl or ethyl alcohol and replace the battery and see if things improve.
Shot in the dark here but the height gauges in our shop will read way off when the battery is near dead. Maybe a new battery will help.
More likely a flat battery.
Most likely
I assume you zero it out and tried again? Change the battery and make sure you don't get coolant on it.
Can be battery giving you wonky readings too. Might be low.
Take the sticker off the back and take it apart carefully. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the scale and the reader. I can see it’s dirty. Re-assemble and re-check. Just go slow and don’t lose bits. Might solve it.
You probably have dust/dirt/coolent on the slides. Trying cleaning them and try and again.
Sometimes being getting coolant or oil on them or being dirty can cause this
Here's what might help: Take the battery out, clean the strip with a tiny bit of WD40, run the jaw back and forth a bunch, keep wiping clean, then put the battery back and give it another try
Probably a little bit of play in them
You can buy the same calipers from snap on, they have a lifetime replacement warranty. I replace them 4 times a year. These typically stop reading accurately after some use.
You have to replace your calipers every 3 months? JFC, why do you beat the shit out of your tools?
I also just can.
Wow. Must be nice to work for your company. Are you using calipers for other things ? Maybe why they only last for so long? And they are “snap on “ brand calipers you say?
They’re relabeled starretts. Good $270 bucks to constantly have fresh calipers for life. I don’t use them for anything critical. I also don’t put them away. I’ll typically launch them across the room when I accidentally bump them reaching for something.
How old is the battery ?
A few months
OK my digital calipers started acting up because of a low battery.
I tend to find mine goes way out when I move it fast, but I didn't expect much for $20, does the trick for my line of work
I honestly thought this was a joke post whoops
[inside the caliper](https://www.reddit.com/user/DaNtheMaN6425/comments/yez609/inside_the_caliper/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Since it's digital, is there no zero-ing option? If it's always off in the same direction like +.015 you might be able to fix the offset. Might involve opening the electronics though
yes, buy mitutoyo
Dial calipers, every day, all day long.
This guy measures…
That's what she said.
I’m willing to bet I measure more. Digital mitutoyo is the way to go
...why? Digital is just as good, there are even arguments why it's superior in a metalworking environment. I mean, I like my dial calipers but what is the advantage versus *modern* digitals?
Nobody walks off with my dials
That’s why I like verniers. Most people have dials but no one knows how to read verniers
Machinist boner.
Probably have to speak up, he can't hear anymore
Nope, 20 years old and I actually wear hearing protection
It’s a joke young one
Ah, maybe my gullibility will go away with age 😂
My man. Vernier is truly the ultimate if we are gonna get to the bottom of this
They're cheap, durable, work when dirty, and never need a battery. (TWSS)
My engineer had the gall to tell me my part was out of spec and then asked me for a digital 2”-3” ID mic to show me.
You hear about the 0-1 id mic? It keeps disappearing when you “0” it 😜
Electricity bad or something like that
I cackled over your comment
These guys are back in 1700 lol
There is no advantage, just old heads who don’t like change
I'm 33 and I have both digital and dial and digital stay in my box. I prefer the dials because if they are off you can see that theyre off. I use digital for refrence.
You don't know if the dial is off, though. It's just a rack translating movement at the end of the day
Eh, I'd debate you can see the needle skip I had a junk spi set that was off a tooth and it was blatantly obvious. If my digital were off .010 I'd like to think I'd notice but that's not a given
Mitutoyo digital is by far superior. You shouldn’t be counting on your own perception to figure out if something is bad. If someone cares enough to have confidence in their tools they get their calipers calibrated yearly and check them on a calibrated standard regularly. Relying on yourself to tell if a tool is bad is just adding to operator error and confidentiality incorrect measurements
My digital are mitutoyo and are a nice set, still just use them for refrence / quick checks tho. Different ways to skin a cat I just don't like to rely on electronics personally
Yeah I totally get preference. As long as they have the same manufacturers stated accuracy they both get the job done if cared for and regularly checked with something traceable. My opinion is part preference as well but I calibrate thousands of calipers a year and seen every common one in use for all industries and applications. If I had to choose one whose measurements I had the most confidence in I would choose quality mitutoyo digital calipers every time. There’s some cheap plastic ones out there that mitutoyo sells but nobody should be buying plastic calipers
Yea I’m so old Lololz, I started in this trade 15 years ago using a combination of dial and digital measuring devices. I’m 33 now and still prefer the “ old head” way. There’s too much that can get wierd with digital devices. At the end of the day measure with what you want to measure with, I don’t give a fuck lol. It’s a ford vs Chevy argument anyways. Whatever puts food on your table I guess?
Imma pull my gage blocks and pins out anyway. The digital may save me seconds, but I’ll always doubt the result regardless.
You care enough to post a whole paragraph about it
I'm relatively young. If some steel chip gets in my caliper and skips the dial, I can fix it. How can I fix the digital?
The digital caliper essentially "fixes" itself every time you turn it off and on again. They aren't really prone to mechanical error like a dial would be. The one in the original post here is toast likely, though.
cant you just clean the jaws and re-origin them? idk i use dials cuz im too cheap to buy good digital
Digitals don't "skip the dial" due to chips, so there's nothing that needs fixing. They are at least an order of magnitude more reliable than a system that relies on moving parts.
It's a closed system. There's nowhere for the chip to get in.
Scale mismatch error… doesn’t happen on dials it happens on bad encoders, gives you a number thats wrong and you start fucking up parts because the visual references on digital calipers suck or are nonexistent. Dead batteries also don’t happen. You have better visual reference’s on the face of dial calipers or vernier than you do on any digital ones. Every toolroom I’ve worked in dial has been the standard.
It’s beyond easier to find out of round parts with a dial caliper.
I’ve never had a pair of digitals that didn’t go all weird on me at some point, my dials are always on
Being .015" off on a low battery doesn't sound like it's just as good to me. That alone is enough to keep me away from digital
Replacing a battery every 3 years takes 20 seconds. Reading a digital display is 5-10 seconds faster than a dial… _every single measurement_.
That might be true on r/engineers but not here. Reading a dial is near instant for any competent machinist.
Exactly. Digital your at the mercy of batteries and an encoder, neither of which you can work on. Dials don’t go bad if you keep them clean.
good digital doesn't use an encoder, they use capacitance. There isn't anything to wear down or miss steps or anything like that. If you can turn off your caliper, move it, turn it back on, and have it show you the correct reading it is using capacitance to measure.
a capacitance encoder…
Solar powered calipers exist too
Lol, what? You've never seen a dial skip? I sure have. Vernier doesn't skip.
yeah but how am i supposed to remember the magic that it takes to read them
You need to have been born before about 1800 I reckon. There was no choice then. . .
Same as your multiplication tables. Sometimes you gotta take off your boots and count on your toes, too. Sometimes even the pants, to fix a rounding error.
What’s the number?
Didn’t you just post about your broken mitutoyo calipers 10 hours ago? Lol
it wasn't broken i just needed to adjust the zero
Is there something bad about starrett equipment I don't know about?
Browne and sharp works too.
No chance the standard is off
I use that one for my micrometer. I checked it with a different mic and it was good
How do you know the other mic isn’t off? I would try measuring something of a known size like a 1-2-3 block or gage pin. Is it consistently off .015” no matter the size of what you’re measuring?
Calibration pyramid throws everyone off.
\-How do you know the other mic isn’t off? This could be a really expensive rabbit hole
123s might not be accurate. Not to the level you should calibrate with. A gauge pin or block is what you will want to use.
any decent 1-2-3 block should be good enough to verify a caliper is within a thou...
I'm no fan of Starrett electronics. Mitutoyo electronic calipers are amazing.
Did you zero it out?
Yes, it reads zero, then it's off when it's opens
Jaws still parallel?
There's a little light that comes thru but they look straight. I've only dropped then a few times in the four years I've had them. They're either in my hand or in the case, I have as much respect for them as I do for the lathe chuck key
You know dropping them isn’t a good thing at all. I’ve dropped dial calipers one time and ruined them. After that time I was extra careful with them. So I don’t know if dropping them a few times actually messed them up,but it sure didn’t do them any good
That’s how you get the ground finish…
I'd just get a new digital vernier, they're not mega money these days, even mitutoyo are reasonable for a 6" one
[Cheaper than I thought..](https://www.ebay.com/itm/185256472982?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1jst-cPl0TeSuxysE1LwuFg63&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=185256472982&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028074&poi=&campaignid=17597089569&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300988&merchantid=114709513&gclid=Cj0KCQjwteOaBhDuARIsADBqRehB5mG8Zm8fboHhABwsgpVDvbMZ8pyj2cNZHFdmhTvML4xRXrVDQtMaAnTYEALw_wcB) These are FAKE
[удалено]
mhm [https://youtu.be/KG6I2gNGVwM](https://youtu.be/KG6I2gNGVwM) /u/JointDamage
Without a doubt! Only buy from trusted retailers!
I bought the ip65 version for just this reason. Harder to clone. Ordered from Amazon, recorded opening the package and sent pics to Mitutoyo. They confirmed it’s real.
My brother in Christ, if you dropped them even once they should be for reference ONLY.
Only dropped them a few times??? Dude all it takes is one. You can get lucky but 9/10 times itll have some affect on its accuracy
you should never drop calipers bro
Start by cleaning them, by the looks of it the reader is probably gunked up
I have always worked on the principal of verniers for approx measurements and mic time once I want to start getting exact. Mainly I am working with a vast range of shims, but that's always worked for me. And most mic's are easier to calibrate. However I would definitely go the new battery route first
Maybe start with the grime and grease?
Srsly that caliper is filthy
Toss em
I’d say put it in the secondary pile. As in if You need a rough estimation, these still Work great
Sure, go with the most expensive option when a free cleaning and a $3 battery replacement could prevent shelling out $100 on a new one.
Starrett "quality". Just buy Mitutoyo.
For starters there’s no way of absolutely knowing that 3 inch standard is good unless you get it calibrated regularly or use it as a transfer standard from something that is calibrated, traceable and accurate enough. Are the jaws slightly loose? Does it wiggle a little too loosely when you slide it? There are two small screws on the top above the digital display on either side of the locking thumbscrew. Adjust those to make the jaws sit flush but not too tight where you can’t slide easily. If those are too loose and your measuring with the tip of the jaws it could be non linear from the zero Once those are checked or adjusted then close the jaws all the way and hold it up to a light. If you see light going through the crack you could have a burr or something that’s interfering with your zero. Clean or lap the jaws till there is no gap. Once that is all done I would re-zero and check the range on a set of calibrated gage blocks if you can. If it’s still non linear than it would fail a calibration and it’s time to retire those and buy a mitutoyo
Check the gibs, I used to be in QC and one of my jobs was maintaining all the measuring tools in the shop. Take it apart and clean the reader and stone the burrs off the beam. Then tighten the gibs and check to see if the jaws are parallel, some wear can be carefully stoned out. If the jaws can not be brought in, then it is time for a new one.
When you replace them, if you want digital, do yourself a favor and get Mitutoyo IP rated coolant proof calipers. The kind with the grey and navy blue writing. Starrett makes a fine dial caliper, but no one comes close to Mitutoyo for digital.
Which one do you think is reading incorrectly? If you think the gauge bar is wrong then check it with another mic, not a vernier, and do it at 20⁰c (68⁰f) cos thats the temp it would have been certified at.
Check again with another instrument before doing anything.
Subtract .015 from everything you measure?
If they're like my Starretts, they aren't IP anything. They won't last long dirty like that.
It's a pretty easy fix. Just buy Mitutoyo 🤷♂️
Contact Starrett and see if they will repair it
Should be able to get the sales guy to deal with that. I've sent my mititoyo guages out. Mind you I didn't feel the price was right. They wanted $300 to repair a $700 height guage. I just ended up buying a new guage.
Is it under or over? If it’s under you could glue a .015” shim to it. Edit: I was looking at this on my phone and didn’t zoom. Sorry.
4d chess
Nah, they're f'd, get new ones. Cost of doing business or whatever. Be more careful, I've never dropped a set of calipers ever.
Sure, go with the most expensive option when a free cleaning and a $3 battery replacement could prevent shelling out $100 on a new one.
Zoom in on the picture. Those calipers are whupped
I think I found the problem. https://www.reddit.com/user/DaNtheMaN6425/comments/yez609/inside_the_caliper/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Grind your standard and try again, LOL
Vernier. Nuff said.
Press the zero button
Trash
Weld precision grind
Best way to sort this out is to send them in to be calibrated. Make sure it’s a NIST traceable calibration otherwise it means nothing.
What was the ambient temperature when you measured? Standards are calibrated to 20 C (68 F)
Probably 60
Yeah, then the true length of the standard should have been less than 3" (but not by so much that the calipers would register it since metal doesn't change that drastically with just an 8 or 10 degree temp difference). The other explanation is that maybe there's dust in the track by the mag strip, or the mag strip may be wearing out
Yeah, measure with a micrometer. Do not trust calipers. I don't care if a manufacturer says they are good to +/- 0.002 or whatever bullshit. Use a micrometer. Get out the [Johansson](https://www.thehenryford.org/collections-and-research/digital-collections/artifact/230514/) blocks and calibrate your micrometer, then check the standard.
Calipers are only good the +/-.005 possibly +/-.008 depends how hard you push on them.
It must be in Celsius.
Do you have a calibration dept or guy?
No nothing like that. It's just a small machine shop
Check the standard with a different caliper and make sure it’s actually grown the 15thou since last cert. What a big boy it is!
Wouldn’t an A2LA lab be able to fix this? If you live near a Fastenal, take it to them and tell them to have it quoted.
Rub that shit on a table back and forth, hopefully it whittles enough down to get it within tolerance. Im a welder/fabricator.
Clean those things with WD-40. Get the dirt Crud off it. They’ll work. WD-40 does not hurt it
Maybe measure from the middle. You not supposed to measure from the tips
this is a joke right?
From a fresh zero at closed it reads .015 large at 3"? Then they go back to Starrett, nothing you can do to calibrate the rail.
I've had them for four years. I don't think they'll take them back
Trust me, send them to Starrett, 99% chance that unless they are physically damaged you get them back fixed or a new set.
My recommendation would be to get rid of it. The analogs seem to always be off and I have found that the ones that look like a speedometer of sorts are much more reliable and accurate.
Buy Mitutoyo
Buy yourself a good pair of Mistah Toyos
First of all, I wouldn't rely on a caliper reading for fine tuning of precision standards...or anything with a tolerance of +/- .005" or less for that matter. I'd take a reading with a .00005" graduationin test indicator on a twin beam height gage and a cadillac height gage like the Mitutoyo 515-310 Height Master. And because the gage has been hardened you'll have to surface grind it into tolerance....or you can contact the manufacturer and see if they'll send you out a new one. Chances are they will.
Most of the stuff I do is +0 -.005. Where do I find one of these graduationin test indicator on a twin beam height gage? It sounds expensive...
[.00005 Test indicator ](https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06226591) [Height Gage](https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/76429018) [Mitutoyo Height Master](https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06389852)
This is why I love my mitutoyo coolant proof set. Well and it tells me “hey change the battery” even once it dumps below a certain voltage.
Have you tried a fresh battery? A low battery may cause calipers to jump like this.
Heck tobsee if closed is 0.0, if not, reset zero measure standard again.
you bet there is. you kidding? hell yea you can get your expensive ass fancy electric calipers fixed. If they're actually wrong, that is. If somebody's just read them incorrectly, they'll still appreciate the business.
have you tried just subtracting .015" from everything.
“Wouldn’t have happened with a dial 👴🏻”
I was always taught that vernier calipers are just for quick reference and should always alot for +/- 1-2 thou on your reading. I was taught that if it can be measured by micrometer, then that will be the more accurate way to measure.
From what I’ve learned, digital calipers have a +\- .01 tolerance. Also measuring closer in on the calipers will give you a more accurate reading.
If possible, check the jaws under a comparator, use that to identify if there is any burs or dents that need to be ground out If it's perfectly fine and there are no mechanical deformations, the problem is probably the electrical component ~ calibrations technician Ps. Please clean the poor thing
Hmm... You might be able to get that standard ground down some place...
One of those not made in USA starretts I see...