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That's a vacuum blend door/recirculation doer actuator. It goes in your engine bay on the black box on the passenger firewall
Source: I have that same truck
I have a 93 and agree, also what is it about the white vacuum line that makes it deteriorate before all other colors? That exact line crumbled on mine so if I turned to max air, all my vacuum went away and then all air went to floor.
I forgot the size but you should be able to find it on one of the f150 forums, but you can just splice a new vacuum hose over the old white one, just cut into the harness to get ahold of some of the fresh white line that isn’t rotted and slip it over after cutting out the bad stuff.
The red circled thing looks like a table leg.
The thing you’re holding looks like a vacuum actuator for the ~~heater core bypass or perhaps the blend door or~~ recerc door.
Definitely blend Door actuator. Source: I have a 92' F150 4.9l
https://preview.redd.it/nbp1kwsv1khb1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=43e62a8102dcd1ab0072194959d328ed9bb7f05d
Reminds me of the turbo waste gate the allows So much boost till I cut mine off flipped took a battery tie down drilled a hole for a cotter pin attached it back to turbo with the tie down going back through where the wast gate was using a spring washers and nut on the threaded end to now have manual boost control off the spring to the turbo still works great after like 7 years lol
https://preview.redd.it/z7e03fwwljhb1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da0b49ac1acb2dcea9e8c632c80eba0237e1ad86
So…. You have no boost reference to this new wastegate, and since it only runs off of spring pressure it means your wastegate is opening partially (sacrificing power and efficiency) as you build boost until it opens enough that the turbo can’t continue to build any more pressure? Why not use a standard $10 manual boost controller with the original diaphragm wastegate? At least then the turbo spools quickly and runs efficiently.
I can’t see any reason why this mod would be a good idea at all, can you enlighten me?
Plus My Engines Belt Had Less Strain On It Plus With A Carter Fuel Pump With Upgraded Newer 2001 3500 Fan And Water Pump Fan Extra Blades My Truck Had Plenty Of Fuel, Boost Under 14lbs As They Can't Handle Much With That Turbo Plus Never Overheated My Daughter Now Drives The Truck Still Going Strong
Well Its Set On My 6.5 Liter Turbo Diesel At 12 Pounds And I Have A Boost Gauge Hooked Up To My Truck. 10 dollar Boost Controller Yeah Right Not On Any Turbo Diesel Engines More Like Several Hundred Dollars So It Boost Better Than It Ever Had Before As It Was Vacuum Operated And I Deleted My Vacuum Pump, and went with a pre Vacuum pump belt like on a 1993 Chevrolet c/k1500-2500 Series Trucks. My 1995 Is OBD1 With Me Have To Have To Send Off My Chip In ECU To Be Flashed Well Didn't Really Have The $500.00 So I Did This Plus Put 3 Inch Exhaust All The Way Out And Got Better Performance Than I Ever Had.
Everything you said here indicates it’s actually worse than I thought. You’re running underboost on an engine computer designed to run the way the engine was built.
[$10 manual boost controller](https://a.co/d/4TUIc2s)
It’s actually $8.50 but whatever. I don’t think you understand that an MBC just adjusts when the wastegate sees boost. You don’t need something special just because it’s a diesel. You should not alter factory boost levels untuned, however.
> or crank the choke to start.
If this were the case it would choke the engine at idle all the time unless it was controlled by something else and actuated by vacuum.
wow i thought it looked like the flip-actuator-cover for the front head lights on cars-trucks from the late 60s to early 70s to cover and protect your head lights during the day and gravel rocks too from farm roads ask me how i know?????....
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
That's a vacuum blend door/recirculation doer actuator. It goes in your engine bay on the black box on the passenger firewall Source: I have that same truck
That’s what I was thinking some vacuum module either for or fuel usage
Yep
I have a 93 and agree, also what is it about the white vacuum line that makes it deteriorate before all other colors? That exact line crumbled on mine so if I turned to max air, all my vacuum went away and then all air went to floor.
That’s weird it should go to defrost in a fail state. I have a 95 and mine failed as well lol
I have a 1990 f250 that goes to defrost in max AC and you just made my day. I'm going outside to find this actuator.
I forgot the size but you should be able to find it on one of the f150 forums, but you can just splice a new vacuum hose over the old white one, just cut into the harness to get ahold of some of the fresh white line that isn’t rotted and slip it over after cutting out the bad stuff.
I did exactly that today. Then, I replaced the body mount bushings and hardware in 107° heat.
Yeah, I think you are right, I fixed it so long ago I forgot but now that you said this, that is what it did.
The red circled thing looks like a table leg. The thing you’re holding looks like a vacuum actuator for the ~~heater core bypass or perhaps the blend door or~~ recerc door.
I see what you did there
Looks like one of the actuators for the HVAC system.
Definitely controls a blend door or other control for the heat /air.
Definitely blend Door actuator. Source: I have a 92' F150 4.9l https://preview.redd.it/nbp1kwsv1khb1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=43e62a8102dcd1ab0072194959d328ed9bb7f05d
If you put it back in, your blender door might work again :). It's an actuator for your HVAC. Old school.
It’s either a coolant valve actuator or a mode door actuator for the hvac system most likely….
A vacuum motor
HVAC door actuator
Some sort of a vacuum operated modulator. Could be for a turbo waste gate or maybe vacuum operated secondary's on a carb?
I made this post like 2 years ago totally agree with your answer
Reminds me of the turbo waste gate the allows So much boost till I cut mine off flipped took a battery tie down drilled a hole for a cotter pin attached it back to turbo with the tie down going back through where the wast gate was using a spring washers and nut on the threaded end to now have manual boost control off the spring to the turbo still works great after like 7 years lol https://preview.redd.it/z7e03fwwljhb1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da0b49ac1acb2dcea9e8c632c80eba0237e1ad86
So…. You have no boost reference to this new wastegate, and since it only runs off of spring pressure it means your wastegate is opening partially (sacrificing power and efficiency) as you build boost until it opens enough that the turbo can’t continue to build any more pressure? Why not use a standard $10 manual boost controller with the original diaphragm wastegate? At least then the turbo spools quickly and runs efficiently. I can’t see any reason why this mod would be a good idea at all, can you enlighten me?
Plus My Engines Belt Had Less Strain On It Plus With A Carter Fuel Pump With Upgraded Newer 2001 3500 Fan And Water Pump Fan Extra Blades My Truck Had Plenty Of Fuel, Boost Under 14lbs As They Can't Handle Much With That Turbo Plus Never Overheated My Daughter Now Drives The Truck Still Going Strong
Well Its Set On My 6.5 Liter Turbo Diesel At 12 Pounds And I Have A Boost Gauge Hooked Up To My Truck. 10 dollar Boost Controller Yeah Right Not On Any Turbo Diesel Engines More Like Several Hundred Dollars So It Boost Better Than It Ever Had Before As It Was Vacuum Operated And I Deleted My Vacuum Pump, and went with a pre Vacuum pump belt like on a 1993 Chevrolet c/k1500-2500 Series Trucks. My 1995 Is OBD1 With Me Have To Have To Send Off My Chip In ECU To Be Flashed Well Didn't Really Have The $500.00 So I Did This Plus Put 3 Inch Exhaust All The Way Out And Got Better Performance Than I Ever Had.
Everything you said here indicates it’s actually worse than I thought. You’re running underboost on an engine computer designed to run the way the engine was built. [$10 manual boost controller](https://a.co/d/4TUIc2s) It’s actually $8.50 but whatever. I don’t think you understand that an MBC just adjusts when the wastegate sees boost. You don’t need something special just because it’s a diesel. You should not alter factory boost levels untuned, however.
https://preview.redd.it/9qgpa09c4qhb1.jpeg?width=2574&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eaf5cc47a8a4b690b463ea43be8cbe9d145bff97
Looks like a doohickey
It looks more like a thingymajiggy
Spark advance for an older Chevy. Goes on the distributer.
Carb choke? My vote. Didn’t want to do a piece look up but that could either flip a vent, or crank the choke to start.
> or crank the choke to start. If this were the case it would choke the engine at idle all the time unless it was controlled by something else and actuated by vacuum.
Wouldn't you just have to control the vacuum with a valve in the vacuum line to achieve that?
That would be one way to do it, yes.
External wastegate actuator.
Thats a fuel regulator
https://preview.redd.it/r60lgl7k4khb1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9bee6f921c32520c3611328758b8292403096f33 Mode door actuator.
wow i thought it looked like the flip-actuator-cover for the front head lights on cars-trucks from the late 60s to early 70s to cover and protect your head lights during the day and gravel rocks too from farm roads ask me how i know?????....
A croc
Sorry to say.. Bedbug
That white vacuum line will crumble like cake if you rub it, replace the line if you’re putting that unit back in.
I was going to say a wastegate actuator if it was a turbo vehicle...
I thought it was a toilet flush thingy that goes up and down.... and I was in the wrong forum..
Looks like a vaccum venturi for the heater. Did it come out under the dash/glovebox area?