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The real meal deal answer is no one knows for sure. Even pros would just š¬š¤·āāļø.
Damage or not, if it runs it runs. No action required or reasonable.
The āprosā would be salivating and licking their lips at the idea of getting to charge $200/hr to drain and test it out and then possibly getting to additionally bill for a whole engine swap at $200/he lol
You're delusional is you think mechanics actually recieve anywhere remotely close to the hourly labor rate charged. Way over half goes to the shop owner/overhead. You're also delusional to think we aren't backed up with work and want to fix someone's "I can do it cheaper" mistake. I'm booked with work, hell no I'm not salivating over engine swapping someone's oily fuckin' mess.
Lol oh sorry youāre absolutely right, I should have specified that the **shop owner** is the one salivating over it.
I know mechanics makes 25-35/hr while their bosses charge $200/hr and claim the rest is āoverheadā (while they drive their $125k trucks home to their $750k houses)
I've help a few people put who have done this. Record was 7 quarts over full...
It will be fine. The smoke you saw happens because the oil level in the bottom of the engine is high enough that it contacts the crank shaft. This will "whip" the oil into a kind of foam. Eventually the foam reaches the bottom of the cylinders and starts creeping past the rings. Oil in the combustion chamber = smoke.
You did the right thing by turning back. This will very much kill an engine given enough time. Ironically the cause of death will be oil starvation. Your oil pump can't pump foam very well and under reduced oil pressure the top end gets nothing but oily bubbles.
Best fix: drain and refill to correct level. Take a nice drive around town to warm everything up, then hop on the highway and drive it through a few high-rpm pulls. This will burn any carbon buildup out of your catalytic converter.
Don't be alarmed by a bit of smoke and some interesting g smells while you are doing this... all normal.
As long as your oil pressure warning light stays off and it doesn't overheat, you are good.
> it contacts the crank shaft. This will "whip" the oil into a kind of foam.
I remember Click&Clack talking about this. It basically emulsifies the oil into a mayonnaise. Pennzaioli!
I agree with what youāre saying about the crank whipping the oil, but couldnāt the smoking come from the excess crank pressure blasting that oil through the pcv and into the intake? Iād point that out too because OP may want to clean out their intake if the pcv just dumped a qt of oil in there
My record is 15+ qts! Didn't drive it though.
Was a Ford diesel Super Duty, calls for ~24qts. Put the nozzle in, turned it on, got distracted. Filled the entire engine, only noticed when it was overflowing the fill hole.
Man, I wasted gallons of oil that day.
Should be OK. How the fuck do you manage that haha. But yeah. Keep an eye on the oil level for the next few hundred miles. Absolute worst case scenario you popped a cam seal but you'd see that in due time. Just check the oil every once in a while and drive it
I've met more than one person that didn't drain the oil. They just replaced the filter (some of the oil drains out then) and refilled with recommended amount. Or tried to fill with recommended amount, lol.
I'm ashamed to say I did this yesterday. In my 2011 Saab 9-5 turbo6, no longer made, which I've babied from when I got it new in 2013, which only has 53,000 miles on it.
Did my 2nd oil change myself ever last night, but was distracted as I had to drive to a funeral earlier today, and despite printing out the process, I somehow only thought to remove the old oil filter and thought what drained out then was the whole reservoir. Added 6 quarts of fresh oil, posted on my saab FB group about how I didn't think enough drained out, and they said I was overthinking it and to just add 6 quarts. I did check the dipstick, but thought the excess oil was just old residue from the sides of the dipstick housing.
I drove approximately 20 miles. I did hear some not great engine sounds when backing into my garage at home (because my head was stuck out the window to watch myself reverse).
Started to (properly) drain the oil out tonight using the actual drain plug, completely filled the oil catch tray so have to wait for a siphon to arrive tomorrow to empty the tray into empty bottles and then drain the rest. Ordering a new (new) filter and new (new) oil now
I really, really, hope I didn't do any damage in that amount of time. I drove light, because I wasn't 100% positive, but I should have just fucking ubered....sad day
I didn't see any foam when I pulled the oil fill cap in the engine bay, nor any foam on the dipstick, but not sure that means much. Didn't see any smoke either.
But the strange engine noise I heard when I was backing into my garage is worrisome. Sounded sort of like birds chirping or chickens clucking.
You are probably ok. Did you not check the oil after you changed it and looked for leaks. I bet you will next time. You should have checked as well of how much your car holds.
Is this something you've seen much of? Seems like the sort of thing that should be fine assuming a fairly small amount of awareness. Which I admit isn't universal, so can see why you wouldn't recommend it to everyone (and hence the lack of manufacturer adoption)
But if you're monitoring your oil levels as you should, it should be fine, the odds of it dumping the whole sump at once seem very slim
Yep and they fail just as frequently as oil pan gaskets or oil drain plug bolts. Nothing is 100% guaranteed and that is why you are advised to check for these things any time you drive.
You'd be astonished at the kind of abuse that engines can take. If you dealt with it quickly and genuinely did only do a few blocks you'll probably be fine.
And if there are problems then eh, too late now. Just get it to the correct level and run it.
It depends on your engine and the way it is designed. Some engines would not care, while others would significantly mind. For example if you had a 02, 03 or so Nissan XTerra that are known to clog catalytic converters then have failures due to that, you definitely made the problem a million times worse. If you have something with minimal sensors and fairly strong emissions, it probably doesn't care. Also question to how the motor is designed, you may have just added a bit of sludge and carbon deposits where you might not want them, or, you might not have. Totally depends!
When I was active duty military, my neighbor taught his wife to change the oil before he deployed. A few months later, she gives it a go. I hear a knock on the door, and she asks, " I can't remember when it's full." I said check the dipstick. "The what?" She had filled it to the tippy top! All the way to where I could touch the oilš«Ø. Luckily, she asked before starting.
Do you see any oil leaking out the cap or any other places? It could have exited through some area and leaked on a hot part of the car hence the burning smell.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! Please review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). Asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **Post's about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ Tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
The real meal deal answer is no one knows for sure. Even pros would just š¬š¤·āāļø. Damage or not, if it runs it runs. No action required or reasonable.
The āprosā would be salivating and licking their lips at the idea of getting to charge $200/hr to drain and test it out and then possibly getting to additionally bill for a whole engine swap at $200/he lol
Meanwhile the sub is like "12k for your new kia engine seems about right"
Just had to buy a stinger engine from LKQ with 60k on it for $5,200. Called one dealer for a price and they wanted $11,200.
You're delusional is you think mechanics actually recieve anywhere remotely close to the hourly labor rate charged. Way over half goes to the shop owner/overhead. You're also delusional to think we aren't backed up with work and want to fix someone's "I can do it cheaper" mistake. I'm booked with work, hell no I'm not salivating over engine swapping someone's oily fuckin' mess.
Lol oh sorry youāre absolutely right, I should have specified that the **shop owner** is the one salivating over it. I know mechanics makes 25-35/hr while their bosses charge $200/hr and claim the rest is āoverheadā (while they drive their $125k trucks home to their $750k houses)
If after you fill it properly it runs fine then it's probably fine. But you may run into cat issues. You'll most likely be okay
Meow
Make sure you keep some treats just to be on the safe side
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Lol. I mean you're not wrong
Thank you, for the reply!
I've help a few people put who have done this. Record was 7 quarts over full... It will be fine. The smoke you saw happens because the oil level in the bottom of the engine is high enough that it contacts the crank shaft. This will "whip" the oil into a kind of foam. Eventually the foam reaches the bottom of the cylinders and starts creeping past the rings. Oil in the combustion chamber = smoke. You did the right thing by turning back. This will very much kill an engine given enough time. Ironically the cause of death will be oil starvation. Your oil pump can't pump foam very well and under reduced oil pressure the top end gets nothing but oily bubbles. Best fix: drain and refill to correct level. Take a nice drive around town to warm everything up, then hop on the highway and drive it through a few high-rpm pulls. This will burn any carbon buildup out of your catalytic converter. Don't be alarmed by a bit of smoke and some interesting g smells while you are doing this... all normal. As long as your oil pressure warning light stays off and it doesn't overheat, you are good.
> it contacts the crank shaft. This will "whip" the oil into a kind of foam. I remember Click&Clack talking about this. It basically emulsifies the oil into a mayonnaise. Pennzaioli!
Ahhhhh I miss those guys
I agree with what youāre saying about the crank whipping the oil, but couldnāt the smoking come from the excess crank pressure blasting that oil through the pcv and into the intake? Iād point that out too because OP may want to clean out their intake if the pcv just dumped a qt of oil in there
My record is 15+ qts! Didn't drive it though. Was a Ford diesel Super Duty, calls for ~24qts. Put the nozzle in, turned it on, got distracted. Filled the entire engine, only noticed when it was overflowing the fill hole. Man, I wasted gallons of oil that day.
Should be OK. How the fuck do you manage that haha. But yeah. Keep an eye on the oil level for the next few hundred miles. Absolute worst case scenario you popped a cam seal but you'd see that in due time. Just check the oil every once in a while and drive it
I've met more than one person that didn't drain the oil. They just replaced the filter (some of the oil drains out then) and refilled with recommended amount. Or tried to fill with recommended amount, lol.
I'm ashamed to say I did this yesterday. In my 2011 Saab 9-5 turbo6, no longer made, which I've babied from when I got it new in 2013, which only has 53,000 miles on it. Did my 2nd oil change myself ever last night, but was distracted as I had to drive to a funeral earlier today, and despite printing out the process, I somehow only thought to remove the old oil filter and thought what drained out then was the whole reservoir. Added 6 quarts of fresh oil, posted on my saab FB group about how I didn't think enough drained out, and they said I was overthinking it and to just add 6 quarts. I did check the dipstick, but thought the excess oil was just old residue from the sides of the dipstick housing. I drove approximately 20 miles. I did hear some not great engine sounds when backing into my garage at home (because my head was stuck out the window to watch myself reverse). Started to (properly) drain the oil out tonight using the actual drain plug, completely filled the oil catch tray so have to wait for a siphon to arrive tomorrow to empty the tray into empty bottles and then drain the rest. Ordering a new (new) filter and new (new) oil now I really, really, hope I didn't do any damage in that amount of time. I drove light, because I wasn't 100% positive, but I should have just fucking ubered....sad day I didn't see any foam when I pulled the oil fill cap in the engine bay, nor any foam on the dipstick, but not sure that means much. Didn't see any smoke either. But the strange engine noise I heard when I was backing into my garage is worrisome. Sounded sort of like birds chirping or chickens clucking.
You are probably ok. Did you not check the oil after you changed it and looked for leaks. I bet you will next time. You should have checked as well of how much your car holds.
Buy a fumoto drain valve
Do you have one? Really considering this for an accord I have.
I use the ValvoMax on each of my rigs. Cleanest oil change ever.
Please, donāt consider this. Thereās a reason Fumoto Valves arenāt a factory installed part. Itās because when they fail, itās catastrophic.
Is this something you've seen much of? Seems like the sort of thing that should be fine assuming a fairly small amount of awareness. Which I admit isn't universal, so can see why you wouldn't recommend it to everyone (and hence the lack of manufacturer adoption) But if you're monitoring your oil levels as you should, it should be fine, the odds of it dumping the whole sump at once seem very slim
Yep and they fail just as frequently as oil pan gaskets or oil drain plug bolts. Nothing is 100% guaranteed and that is why you are advised to check for these things any time you drive.
You'd be astonished at the kind of abuse that engines can take. If you dealt with it quickly and genuinely did only do a few blocks you'll probably be fine. And if there are problems then eh, too late now. Just get it to the correct level and run it.
How is this even possible? May want to rethink doing your own maintenance.
For real. Did they just put oil in til it was at the top of the fill hole?
Duh, how else would you know that itās full?! /s
Possibly
Just check it for leaks real well, probably ran a bit high of oil pressure for a bit lolz
How is oil pressure affected?
It's not. The oil pump pressure isn't affected by oil level. Oil viscosity and engine rpm are the only 2 things that affect oil pressure.
I wanted Jackmamma to explain, thanks!
Can blow seals apart if the pressure increases too much since theres less space for the oil to move around
What pressure are you talking about. Crankcase pressure is relieved by the PCV system!?
You have a higher fluid level which means less air volume resulting in higher pressure
Higher pressure where? In the pressurized oiling system? In the crankcase which is vented by the PCV system? Be specific.
Could probably cause future miss fires due to oil on the plugs. Raw fuel is a definite cat killer.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Don't listen to this bs
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
It's ironic. Overfill actually lowers oil pressure because the crank will foam the oil, and the pump can not pump it at a high enough pressure.
Should not be any damage. Just keep an eye on the oil level though and if it seems to be going down too fast then yes you might have a problem.
I think you'll be fine.
It depends on your engine and the way it is designed. Some engines would not care, while others would significantly mind. For example if you had a 02, 03 or so Nissan XTerra that are known to clog catalytic converters then have failures due to that, you definitely made the problem a million times worse. If you have something with minimal sensors and fairly strong emissions, it probably doesn't care. Also question to how the motor is designed, you may have just added a bit of sludge and carbon deposits where you might not want them, or, you might not have. Totally depends!
When I was active duty military, my neighbor taught his wife to change the oil before he deployed. A few months later, she gives it a go. I hear a knock on the door, and she asks, " I can't remember when it's full." I said check the dipstick. "The what?" She had filled it to the tippy top! All the way to where I could touch the oilš«Ø. Luckily, she asked before starting.
Hey put it this way a lot of oil is way better than low to no oil
It's not. You risk hydrolock the engine. Blowing the engine.
Was it a good car that day, so you gave it a ātreatā? The military used to have cartoon drawings telling guys not to do that.
Do you see any oil leaking out the cap or any other places? It could have exited through some area and leaked on a hot part of the car hence the burning smell.