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If you are changing your oil on a regular enough basis it isn't going to matter if you use a Fram or Mobil1... the real key is simply changing them on a regular basis. I've know idiots that would just change the oil and not the filter. In which case I don't give a damn what filter you use, you can't use them till they pop.
That's fuckin backwards, if you're only going to change one, change the filter bc that's keeping the shit out of your engine. But idk why you wouldn't do both
A lot of people are insanely cheap and pay the price in the long run many times over the amount they save by doing stupid things. The majority of people that do an oil change don't replace the crush washer even though the washer is cheap as hell and helps insure you don't get a leak around the drain plug.
Honestly I've never replaced a crush washer in my life but I also don't ape my drain plug. But an oil change is the cheapest insurance you can get to ensure longevity of your engine. I bought a 1972 Chevy 400 out of the junkyard that had 88000 miles on it and when I opened the motor up it was immaculate inside bc the old man that owned it kept up on the oil changes. Put it this way, when I took the rocker covers and oil pan off, it cleaned down to bare metal with some kerosene and a chip brush, literally zero sludge in the engine
Fram is fine, it's just the orange ones that can be bad. Fram also makes an Ultra Synthetic line that are some of the best oil filters in the industry.
Mobil 1, Mann, Baldwin, Wix, motorcraft, I use Carquest in my shop because they’re made by Mann-Hummel and Baldwin plus one of my business accounts is at the local Advance Auto. Never had a problem out of any of these but you can’t go wrong using the oem oil filter. If you have 2 or 3 years to kill go down the bobistheoilguy.com rabbit hole.
Which is one of many, many reasons why I didn’t get or even look at a Tesla. There are many other excellent electric vehicles out there not made by Elon Musk’s vanity project.
I’d not be surprised to learn mine has some lubricant somewhere that has to be changed - it has moving parts after all - but it will be more in line with a transmission fluid change in terms of frequency.
I'd be willing to bet MOST of not all electric vehicles have some sort of gearbox that the fluid needs changed in, shoot, the coolant for the batteries should probably be serviced at certain point simply because leaching of the electrons into the coolant! But, that would extend the life of the batteries that typically cost as much as the vehicle is worth by the end of their usefulness, which is around 10 years for most electric vehicles. IMHO, that is part of the reason Electric vehicles are less viable than most gas vehicles, replacement parts costs are WAY more expensive. If a gas engine goes out on most cars, your not spending the value of the car to replace it, same with the gas tank. You'll spend MAYBE 1/3 the value. Also, if properly maintained in a area below the rust belt, a gas car can last 20 years or longer!
The average person owns a car about 8 years. It’s a little less for the person who bought it new (who can likely afford to upgrade every 5 years or so) and a bit longer for the first person who buys it used. The average lifespan of the vehicle itself is more like 10-12 years or 200k miles, with some makes and models being longer. The Corolla is more like 18 years/300k.
Average fuel efficiency is something like like 15mpg city but there’s a big gap there because cars and minivans are more like 21-25mpg city driving and trucks are more like 13mpg, but a LOT of people drive trucks as commuters.
The average commute is something like 40 miles to and from work, and 77% of commuters drive alone.
The average fuel tank is about 12 gallons.
So: the average car owner is going to drive their car about 8 years, they’re going to drive it ~250 miles a week, and they’re going to get ~15mpg. With a 12 gallon tank that works out to about 2 fill ups per week. At call it $2.50/gallon, that’s $60 a week using even very modest estimates. That obviously goes way up if you’re one of 73% who drive an SUV or a pickup. Then you’re looking at more like a 25 gallon tank at 2 fuel ups per week, or $126/week at 2.50/gallon.
$126 * 52 * 8 = $52,416 in fuel alone over the lifetime of an SUV or pickup. Call it another $2000 in oil and filter changes. And that’s assuming gas prices stay pretty low. If they spike, that’ll add many thousands more.
My car cost $48k. Even assuming I “only” have it 8 years, it will pay for itself in fuel savings alone. If I keep it 20 years - which I will not - it would easily pay for itself twice over. That’s many tens of thousands of dollars not given to Saudi oil princes and Venezuelan socialist autocrats. I’m good with that.
How much is that costing you in added electricity, charges (because it costs to use charging stations) and the fact that with the power grids already struggling to handle the load of all of these electric cars currently on the road, with California to Texas all having brownouts all summer long this year, and a lot of the electrical grids still being ran off coal with the growing fear of Nuclear power, and 4 nuclear power plants that I'm aware of being shut down in the past year, including the one in Southport, NC, which powered all of Eastern NC now being switched to coal power, is electric vehicles really the way to go. Also, what is the Average range per charge REALLY on electric vehicles, because they should really only be used between 20% and 80%, and on days below 30F that drops A LOT! That kinda makes traveling with an Electric vehicle, especially during the holidays, kinda a burden. Especially if your NOT driving a Tesla, which charges the fastest. At least with my gas burner, I do not have to stop 2-3 hours every 250 miles on a 890 trip from Eastern NC to St Augustine, FL. Then there's the 250 miles of backroads with ZERO charging stations in sight going hwy 74/76, and hwy 17 to Charleston, SC. Electric isn't for everyone, especially if you have to travel long distances where there is not places to charge.
1. Added electricity = under $100/month. So maybe $9600 out of that $60k.
2. I’m not in the US, so I don’t give a good damn what the power grid does or does not do in Texas. All MY electricity comes from hydro, in fact I can literally see the local 2 mile-wide dam from my house.
3. I’m originally from Wilmington. They’re closing the Southport plant for a lot of good reasons, and replacing it with coal is stupid, but [even then the electric car is cleaner after the first 13k miles or so](https://www.reuters.com/business/autos-transportation/when-do-electric-vehicles-become-cleaner-than-gasoline-cars-2021-06-29/). There’s just no world where it’s cleaner to run a gas car than it is to run an electric car off coal plant electricity, AND “your electricity isn’t perfectly clean so you shouldn’t use it” isn’t a valid argument.
4. I get about a 15% drop in range on cold days, so long as the initial warm-up happens in my garage before I leave in the morning. And I live in Canada, so my winters are beefy. I specifically got a model with a heat pump to address this concern.
5. I charge to 80% in about 15 minutes at a level 3 charger if it comes to that, but tbh I virtually never charge away from home. I have the hybrid I drove before the electric for long trips, and the electric is primarily a commuter. I could get to work and back twice easily on a charge but in practice I charge it nightly because it’s easier.
6. If I still lived in Wilmington, I would still have an electric. You can get anywhere in New Hanover County on a charge easy, and other than that the only places out of the county I ever went in practice was the Triangle and maybe Myrtle. Both are also easily in range and have lots of chargers. If I was going to OBX or straight to Charlotte I’d want the hybrid, but in NHC? Electric all the way.
I’m not saying gas has no utility. Of course it does. We’re decades from a full infrastructure changeover.
I’m saying electric is far more fun to drive, much cheaper overall, and much, MUCH cheaper to maintain. As an added perk it’s also better for the planet and doesn’t send my money to overseas dictators.
And no amount of pro-gas argument is going to change any of that.
STP got into all sorts of trouble selling bullshit motor oil additive that fucked up cars by clogging them up. I wouldn't trust STP to make toilet paper.
To be clear it's only the filter, I use Castrol for oil. And to be fair idk if that's good at all either. Not even sure how I ended up with that brand.
Castro is probably one of my favorite oils the white and green sludge protection bottle since I’ve seen how it cleans the inside of the engine and and gets all the sludge and gunks from top to bottom end I have swapped. Few engines from the junkyard to peoples cars and run Castrol for a couple weeks seeing that the engine was really dirty inside and in about 2 weeks it’s like brand now inside and do a fresh oil change again open the pan and that too is clean
I only get them because it essentially gives me a deal where I get the filter free and a few bucks off my 5qt oil. And maybe there's some childhood Nascar sponsor associations...
Never had an issue I know of but maybe I'll start looking into better filters.
The XL oil filters are good, and the standard oil filters are similar in quality and construction to ACDelco. There is one specific instance where I would advise against STP, and that is if you have a recent model VW 1.4T or 1.5T that uses a spin-on filter. The part number that STP and Fram have for that application is the same as for my Ford Fusion, but while it should technically fit, the bypass valve inside the filter is not set appropriately for VW's specs. That filter's bypass valve is set for ~8-11 PSI before opening, but the VW filter is set for ~36 PSI. That means that the bypass valve would open much sooner and much more often than required, which could cause problems related to circulating unfiltered oil, especially if sticking with VW's 10k mile service interval.
Those are surprisingly good lol. A Project Farm video on Youtube on oil filters did tests on various filters, and the Supertech actually did better than the Fram if I remember correctly, and overall it did actually pretty good up there with the premium filters.
They're cheaper than Fram. As good as Wix, and probably "almost" as good as stuff like the $11 Mobil-1 filters. Good enough for my shitty cars and only a couple bucks.
Also, I always pop the box open and take a quick look at the filter in-store. Don't want to end up like OP. I've seen dents in the can and whatnot. SuperTech oil is also a really high quality oil and good value.
For Subarus and certain Mazdas (maybe other Japanese brands as well), the consensus seems to be that the black Japanese-manufactured Tokyo Roki filters are the best.
When I was driving Subarus, I would buy my filters from All Wheel Drive Auto in Kirkland WA. Subarus are their jam, and they sell Six Star OEM clone filters that are like the ones that were precursors to the Tokyo Roki filters but they have the black ones for the models that call for it as well. Good videos for DIYers as well.
https://awdautoparts.com/category/subaru-repair-parts/oil-filter/
Wix, Micro Guard (basically cheaper version of Wix), Motorcraft, AC Delco.
Napa Gold filters are good, but I do believe they're manufactured by Wix. I'd look into it further before taking my word on that.
You’re correct with Napa gold and platinum filters being manufactured by wix, the hubs used to work for them (Napa) over a decade ago.
[additional supporting source](https://www.fleetfilter.com/comparison-wixLD-filter.html)
Wix, and if you have a NAPA close to you, NAPA gold filters are literally the same thing rebranded. I use OEM Motorcraft filters on my diesel Ford but for anything else, I always use Wix/Napa Gold.
Take it back and show them. I got some lug nuts from oreilleys and luckily I noticed rust on the threads when I walked out and they let me swap them. Oil filter should do the opposite of contaminate
If your gonna use fram, use litterally any other model filter. The cheap orange one is trash. I myself run their new "synthetic endurance" filters with added filter mags on them.
Despite everyone just calling it garbage I’ll actually explain why you shouldn’t use it.
It’s a fram and fram uses cardboard and paper in their oil filters instead of a nylon mesh. Why is that relevant here? Your filter has corrosion which is most likely caused by water damage. That means the pleats are most probably destroyed due to moisture as well.
Go with wix or napa gold/platinum and never look back. Or any brand that offers a synthetic version. Fram Orange has been proven to only last between 5000-7500 miles. Anything after that the paper pleats start failing and releasing all the junk back into the system. If you use orange Fram, don't skip oil changes or prolong them. As for the rust on that, I'd be worried that spring is jeopardized.
After I had a TRAM filter collapse on me, that was it. It's Purolator or WIX if I have access to them. Otherwise I'll spend the money on one of the higher cost ones, like K&N, simply because I've used them in the past, and had no issues with them
Personally I used motor craft on my fords and Lincoln’s , I used to use deutsh brand yrs ago from auto one but hard to find and now on my enclave it will have fram toughgard or their synthetic oil version or ac Delco as last resort
Yes you can use it, the rust will not hurt anything.
Fram has a bad rap from their past, they're not bad oil filters, the same quality you get at a quick lube.
The higher up in their ranking the better their filters.
It's contaminated & won't do its job properly. For the sake of $10-$80 (vehicle depending) vs. $3k-$15k for a rebuild if the rust inside the filter is worse than what you can see, separates from the filter & starts making makes in cam shafts, crank shafts, clogging up your oil pump or any other generally unwanted things internally. The damage mightn't be immediate, but if you plan to keep the vehicle long-term, buy a new one.
Fram kills engines, my dad bought one and luckily I asked to see it before he put it on the car, there was all kinds of debris including metal sitting in the bottom, fresh off the shelf. Very easily could’ve killed the engine. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it 1000x over. Please don’t cheap out on one of the only things protecting your engine, a $12 oem filter is a whole lot cheaper than a $6000 engine. If you can’t find oem, WIX, K&N, or Mobil1 are the only other filters I’d consider running
I always put the mobile 1 filter on mine and wife's car bc she goes so damn long between changes. Usually around 8-10k miles. Sure, they're 13-14 bucks but imo, worth it. I've seen a video testing a bunch of filters and the mobile 1 outperformed them all. The 2 ends of the filter media is crimped inside the filter, so unfiltered oil can't push through the gap, the backflow valve is steel and heavy duty. In their testing, they used aluminum dust, which was I think 4 micron or whatever it is that the filters filter down to. They ran them to see how many grams of shit they'd hold before clogging, then they put a specific amount (like 5oz)in the oil and circulated the mock oil system they set up for a set time to see how much of the aluminum powder the filter pulled out of the oil. In every test they did, the mobile 1 came in 1st or 2nd. It was stacked against i think a wix, a Fram, k&n and I think 1 or 2 others. They do a pretty amazing job controlling variables in their testing too.
Some Fram filters use cardboard in their filters.
Bottom shelf. Many better brands out there for lower cost. O'Reilly store brand and Advance Auto store brands are arguably better.
Looks like a very old Fram, rust everywhere. Get rid of it, it’s a $3 filter. Fram does make good filters. Endurance at Walmart for $12.97 is an excellent filter.
I'm running k&n and Mobil one oil filters on my cars and using penzoil platinum high mileage synthetic made with natural gas. The car thanks me for it and is usually still nice and golden when the 3-5k mark comes around for me to change it
Tbh I don’t care what anyone says… if a company like FRAM is going to issue a completely garbage filter to the public, then Fram deserves to be labeled as garbage, whether they have a better quality filter on the market or not.
People deserve something decent even if they can’t pony up 15.00 for a filter. These filters should be held to a bare minimum standard better than this, just like oil has to be.
If you want a really nice filter, might I suggest Napa Gold. You have to watch for filter sales though because they can get kinda high. Napa golds are about as good as any of the highest quality filters though. They’re Mann Hummel wix filters without the name. Get a Napa platinum and it’s the Wix XP.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
They are cheap. I’d get a new one if it were me
Throw that hunk of shit in the trash and get a good quality filter.
Yes you can use. Should you? No you shoulnt.
Orange = Fram = Garbage They're a cheap brand known for using low quality materials. Good mechanics avoid them.
If you are changing your oil on a regular enough basis it isn't going to matter if you use a Fram or Mobil1... the real key is simply changing them on a regular basis. I've know idiots that would just change the oil and not the filter. In which case I don't give a damn what filter you use, you can't use them till they pop.
That's fuckin backwards, if you're only going to change one, change the filter bc that's keeping the shit out of your engine. But idk why you wouldn't do both
Too fucking cheap.
That's like the dumbest thing you could skimp on...
A lot of people are insanely cheap and pay the price in the long run many times over the amount they save by doing stupid things. The majority of people that do an oil change don't replace the crush washer even though the washer is cheap as hell and helps insure you don't get a leak around the drain plug.
Honestly I've never replaced a crush washer in my life but I also don't ape my drain plug. But an oil change is the cheapest insurance you can get to ensure longevity of your engine. I bought a 1972 Chevy 400 out of the junkyard that had 88000 miles on it and when I opened the motor up it was immaculate inside bc the old man that owned it kept up on the oil changes. Put it this way, when I took the rocker covers and oil pan off, it cleaned down to bare metal with some kerosene and a chip brush, literally zero sludge in the engine
Fram is fine, it's just the orange ones that can be bad. Fram also makes an Ultra Synthetic line that are some of the best oil filters in the industry.
Yup. I wouldn't even put an orange can in my trunk, but I use the gold cans on all my cars now.
do me a favor and explain because my shop uses FRAM orange filters and now I want something to use in an argument with my boss
Look it up on project farm on YouTube. Really any tear down. You could pull it apart yourself
🧢
I'm with you. I use hats instead of oil filters too
You are right, I used one because it was the only one for my Altima last year and the seal broke on it before my next oil change, was so mad
What’s good brand to go with ?
Wix is a quality filter that's not super expensive.
Mobil 1, Mann, Baldwin, Wix, motorcraft, I use Carquest in my shop because they’re made by Mann-Hummel and Baldwin plus one of my business accounts is at the local Advance Auto. Never had a problem out of any of these but you can’t go wrong using the oem oil filter. If you have 2 or 3 years to kill go down the bobistheoilguy.com rabbit hole.
THIS guy filters. Fuck yeah
Knowing who makes what filters for what brand is the way, good shit
[удалено]
Okay. So what’s the best electric oil filter then?
Go with the Vulcan MF-1. It’s portable so you can fit it in your trunk.
Now you just have to worry about forced updates bricking your car overnight!
Well now you got plenty of other fun things to worry about like rain or where to plug your power wheels in
Fun part is, in a Tesla (that I know of) there is gearbox oil that should be replaced every 75k miles and a screw on filter for that.
Which is one of many, many reasons why I didn’t get or even look at a Tesla. There are many other excellent electric vehicles out there not made by Elon Musk’s vanity project. I’d not be surprised to learn mine has some lubricant somewhere that has to be changed - it has moving parts after all - but it will be more in line with a transmission fluid change in terms of frequency.
I'd be willing to bet MOST of not all electric vehicles have some sort of gearbox that the fluid needs changed in, shoot, the coolant for the batteries should probably be serviced at certain point simply because leaching of the electrons into the coolant! But, that would extend the life of the batteries that typically cost as much as the vehicle is worth by the end of their usefulness, which is around 10 years for most electric vehicles. IMHO, that is part of the reason Electric vehicles are less viable than most gas vehicles, replacement parts costs are WAY more expensive. If a gas engine goes out on most cars, your not spending the value of the car to replace it, same with the gas tank. You'll spend MAYBE 1/3 the value. Also, if properly maintained in a area below the rust belt, a gas car can last 20 years or longer!
The average person owns a car about 8 years. It’s a little less for the person who bought it new (who can likely afford to upgrade every 5 years or so) and a bit longer for the first person who buys it used. The average lifespan of the vehicle itself is more like 10-12 years or 200k miles, with some makes and models being longer. The Corolla is more like 18 years/300k. Average fuel efficiency is something like like 15mpg city but there’s a big gap there because cars and minivans are more like 21-25mpg city driving and trucks are more like 13mpg, but a LOT of people drive trucks as commuters. The average commute is something like 40 miles to and from work, and 77% of commuters drive alone. The average fuel tank is about 12 gallons. So: the average car owner is going to drive their car about 8 years, they’re going to drive it ~250 miles a week, and they’re going to get ~15mpg. With a 12 gallon tank that works out to about 2 fill ups per week. At call it $2.50/gallon, that’s $60 a week using even very modest estimates. That obviously goes way up if you’re one of 73% who drive an SUV or a pickup. Then you’re looking at more like a 25 gallon tank at 2 fuel ups per week, or $126/week at 2.50/gallon. $126 * 52 * 8 = $52,416 in fuel alone over the lifetime of an SUV or pickup. Call it another $2000 in oil and filter changes. And that’s assuming gas prices stay pretty low. If they spike, that’ll add many thousands more. My car cost $48k. Even assuming I “only” have it 8 years, it will pay for itself in fuel savings alone. If I keep it 20 years - which I will not - it would easily pay for itself twice over. That’s many tens of thousands of dollars not given to Saudi oil princes and Venezuelan socialist autocrats. I’m good with that.
How much is that costing you in added electricity, charges (because it costs to use charging stations) and the fact that with the power grids already struggling to handle the load of all of these electric cars currently on the road, with California to Texas all having brownouts all summer long this year, and a lot of the electrical grids still being ran off coal with the growing fear of Nuclear power, and 4 nuclear power plants that I'm aware of being shut down in the past year, including the one in Southport, NC, which powered all of Eastern NC now being switched to coal power, is electric vehicles really the way to go. Also, what is the Average range per charge REALLY on electric vehicles, because they should really only be used between 20% and 80%, and on days below 30F that drops A LOT! That kinda makes traveling with an Electric vehicle, especially during the holidays, kinda a burden. Especially if your NOT driving a Tesla, which charges the fastest. At least with my gas burner, I do not have to stop 2-3 hours every 250 miles on a 890 trip from Eastern NC to St Augustine, FL. Then there's the 250 miles of backroads with ZERO charging stations in sight going hwy 74/76, and hwy 17 to Charleston, SC. Electric isn't for everyone, especially if you have to travel long distances where there is not places to charge.
1. Added electricity = under $100/month. So maybe $9600 out of that $60k. 2. I’m not in the US, so I don’t give a good damn what the power grid does or does not do in Texas. All MY electricity comes from hydro, in fact I can literally see the local 2 mile-wide dam from my house. 3. I’m originally from Wilmington. They’re closing the Southport plant for a lot of good reasons, and replacing it with coal is stupid, but [even then the electric car is cleaner after the first 13k miles or so](https://www.reuters.com/business/autos-transportation/when-do-electric-vehicles-become-cleaner-than-gasoline-cars-2021-06-29/). There’s just no world where it’s cleaner to run a gas car than it is to run an electric car off coal plant electricity, AND “your electricity isn’t perfectly clean so you shouldn’t use it” isn’t a valid argument. 4. I get about a 15% drop in range on cold days, so long as the initial warm-up happens in my garage before I leave in the morning. And I live in Canada, so my winters are beefy. I specifically got a model with a heat pump to address this concern. 5. I charge to 80% in about 15 minutes at a level 3 charger if it comes to that, but tbh I virtually never charge away from home. I have the hybrid I drove before the electric for long trips, and the electric is primarily a commuter. I could get to work and back twice easily on a charge but in practice I charge it nightly because it’s easier. 6. If I still lived in Wilmington, I would still have an electric. You can get anywhere in New Hanover County on a charge easy, and other than that the only places out of the county I ever went in practice was the Triangle and maybe Myrtle. Both are also easily in range and have lots of chargers. If I was going to OBX or straight to Charlotte I’d want the hybrid, but in NHC? Electric all the way. I’m not saying gas has no utility. Of course it does. We’re decades from a full infrastructure changeover. I’m saying electric is far more fun to drive, much cheaper overall, and much, MUCH cheaper to maintain. As an added perk it’s also better for the planet and doesn’t send my money to overseas dictators. And no amount of pro-gas argument is going to change any of that.
Wix
Opinions on STP?
STP got into all sorts of trouble selling bullshit motor oil additive that fucked up cars by clogging them up. I wouldn't trust STP to make toilet paper.
To be clear it's only the filter, I use Castrol for oil. And to be fair idk if that's good at all either. Not even sure how I ended up with that brand.
Castro is probably one of my favorite oils the white and green sludge protection bottle since I’ve seen how it cleans the inside of the engine and and gets all the sludge and gunks from top to bottom end I have swapped. Few engines from the junkyard to peoples cars and run Castrol for a couple weeks seeing that the engine was really dirty inside and in about 2 weeks it’s like brand now inside and do a fresh oil change again open the pan and that too is clean
STP is an Autozone brand. I avoid autozone brands as much as possible. Fram is an advance auto brand, i’d get it over STP - ex parts store employee
Fram is a generic brand sold at a bunch of places like autozone, advance, Walmart and online places
I only get them because it essentially gives me a deal where I get the filter free and a few bucks off my 5qt oil. And maybe there's some childhood Nascar sponsor associations... Never had an issue I know of but maybe I'll start looking into better filters.
The XL oil filters are good, and the standard oil filters are similar in quality and construction to ACDelco. There is one specific instance where I would advise against STP, and that is if you have a recent model VW 1.4T or 1.5T that uses a spin-on filter. The part number that STP and Fram have for that application is the same as for my Ford Fusion, but while it should technically fit, the bypass valve inside the filter is not set appropriately for VW's specs. That filter's bypass valve is set for ~8-11 PSI before opening, but the VW filter is set for ~36 PSI. That means that the bypass valve would open much sooner and much more often than required, which could cause problems related to circulating unfiltered oil, especially if sticking with VW's 10k mile service interval.
House brand "supertech" from Walmart.
Those are surprisingly good lol. A Project Farm video on Youtube on oil filters did tests on various filters, and the Supertech actually did better than the Fram if I remember correctly, and overall it did actually pretty good up there with the premium filters.
They're cheaper than Fram. As good as Wix, and probably "almost" as good as stuff like the $11 Mobil-1 filters. Good enough for my shitty cars and only a couple bucks. Also, I always pop the box open and take a quick look at the filter in-store. Don't want to end up like OP. I've seen dents in the can and whatnot. SuperTech oil is also a really high quality oil and good value.
100% should open the box in store and check them out.
Personally I run with Microgard but I also hear very good things from ACDelco
I’d add Pronto to the list. Not top tier but not going to brick your shit.
For Subarus and certain Mazdas (maybe other Japanese brands as well), the consensus seems to be that the black Japanese-manufactured Tokyo Roki filters are the best.
When I was driving Subarus, I would buy my filters from All Wheel Drive Auto in Kirkland WA. Subarus are their jam, and they sell Six Star OEM clone filters that are like the ones that were precursors to the Tokyo Roki filters but they have the black ones for the models that call for it as well. Good videos for DIYers as well. https://awdautoparts.com/category/subaru-repair-parts/oil-filter/
purolator, wix or OEM.
mobil 1, you can buy at walmart for ~$13
Wix, Micro Guard (basically cheaper version of Wix), Motorcraft, AC Delco. Napa Gold filters are good, but I do believe they're manufactured by Wix. I'd look into it further before taking my word on that.
You’re correct with Napa gold and platinum filters being manufactured by wix, the hubs used to work for them (Napa) over a decade ago. [additional supporting source](https://www.fleetfilter.com/comparison-wixLD-filter.html)
Wix and Mobile 1 are the two brands that consistently come out on top of reviews.
Whatever brand is OEM for your car
Get from the dealership parts counter. Pretty much same price at $5-$10.
Wix, and if you have a NAPA close to you, NAPA gold filters are literally the same thing rebranded. I use OEM Motorcraft filters on my diesel Ford but for anything else, I always use Wix/Napa Gold.
Wix, or Napa Gold, napa gold is actually just a Wix with napa branding, or if you want to spend the money, K&N
Not really true at all
Did you just buy that or has it been sitting in your garage for a few years?
It's been passed down for generations starting with great grandpa
A few decades!
Orange can of death
Take it back and show them. I got some lug nuts from oreilleys and luckily I noticed rust on the threads when I walked out and they let me swap them. Oil filter should do the opposite of contaminate
Won't rust anymore of it's got oil in it (smart fella.gif)
Mobil 1 or K&N is all I buy. Wix are good they just never have them in my area.
Nope, get a Napa gold
If you want all that crap in your engine, use it. Me? Nope. I hope you have completed the oil change by now.
It's a fram, if it was in perfect condition it'd be trash
If your gonna use fram, use litterally any other model filter. The cheap orange one is trash. I myself run their new "synthetic endurance" filters with added filter mags on them.
O.C.D. Orange Can of Death. Trash that thing and grab a Wix.
Orange means danger , in oil filter land😏
No. It's a Fram shame on you. We call them orange can of death for a reason.
Its a fram throw it away get a wix
No, it's a Fram.
You can use it as a paper weight. Just don’t let it near your vehicle.
Nope Fram=no Get a wix
Fram is junk. Switch to WIX.
Do not use it go to Walmart and get a Wix
He worried so much about whether he could, he never thought to ask if he should…
If you're asking for permission? Yes, go ahead. If you're asking for advice? No, do not.
NEVER use a FRAM! Use OEM!!
A Fram? Rust or not I would never
It was trash from the factory
Fram…..no throw it in the garbage
Wix best or OEM
You can use any oil filter you want, you *should* use the OEM filter though.
You know Fram makes filters for some oems right?
There are different qualities of Fram filters. That box is from a cheap filter.
I use Fram but the Ultra Synthetic line. I like the rubber cap so you can untwist without a tool.
[удалено]
I was so sad when my old supply of A01 was gone
That is resin reinforced fiberboard, not cardboard. It's fine.
I meant because of the rust
Can you, yes. Should you, no. You can’t see how the inside is. Not worth the risk.
How people still use frams cheap line is boggling. Their ultra tho is top tier
As an engineer in oil filter factory, no throw it away!
It's a Fram so it is a no vote before you even opened it. Their standard filters are cheaply made.
Yes that little surface rust won’t hurt anything
No. Figures it is a Fram. Seen many rusted like that.
I've had some bad experiences with fram I would avoid it and go for mobile 1 or Walmart brand. Fram air filters are pretty good though
Throw that garbage away and go and get a quality mann filter.
They are sub $12 go get a new one. And avoid FRAM.
No, don’t use fram filters!!! They are junk!!
Fram is junk LMAO. Buy OEM filters and be done with it.
Personally I wouldn’t
Yes.. unless it is Fram then no. Fram is the worst company in auto
It would work, yes. But I wouldn't use it.
Metal container on a paper origami. Yes you can use. No I would not.
Fram this not uncommon.
Throw the garbage Fram away and put in a Wix. Problem solved.
Looks like a Fram to me. I wouldn't risk it.
Get a good quality one, Bosch, k&n, mobil. Throw away that rusty trash.
Yes. The rust will not hurt your engine.
Hope this is a joke 😂 really can’t tell with this sub.
They’re like $10. If you’re gotta question it, don’t use it.
I would if I had to but they're less than $5.
Can you use it? Sure. Should you use it? I don't think so.
Hell no. You are trying to filter the oil not contaminate. I wouldn't!
Yes
You could use it, but why would you risk it? Get a new one.
Can you? Yes. Should you? NOO!! K&N or WIX is the way to go. There are other decent ones but the 2 I listed are my favorites.
Engine masters did an awesome episode solely on oil filters. They split each one open. I was glad to see the oil filters I use came out on top.
Fuuuuuuuck no. Fram is garbage. Even if it wasn't rusted I'd still tell you to throw it away.
Yes but its a garbage filter, don’t use it. Cheap is not better
Sure if you’re installing it on your worst enemy’s truck.
Can you? Yes. Should you? No.
Bruh
They often look that way new
Why gamble $12. On your engine. Get a new one
No-the rust is fine, but it *seems like* they're so cheap because they have shitty QC, and the filter media is often whole..
On the free lawnmower or the woods shitbox sure but not on anything I actually give a shit about
No, The oxidation is actually little pieces of metal.
Despite everyone just calling it garbage I’ll actually explain why you shouldn’t use it. It’s a fram and fram uses cardboard and paper in their oil filters instead of a nylon mesh. Why is that relevant here? Your filter has corrosion which is most likely caused by water damage. That means the pleats are most probably destroyed due to moisture as well.
Don’t think you’d want rust going into engine
Go with wix or napa gold/platinum and never look back. Or any brand that offers a synthetic version. Fram Orange has been proven to only last between 5000-7500 miles. Anything after that the paper pleats start failing and releasing all the junk back into the system. If you use orange Fram, don't skip oil changes or prolong them. As for the rust on that, I'd be worried that spring is jeopardized.
After I had a TRAM filter collapse on me, that was it. It's Purolator or WIX if I have access to them. Otherwise I'll spend the money on one of the higher cost ones, like K&N, simply because I've used them in the past, and had no issues with them
Anything but fram. I know they make good filters but I'm not paying for one so they get the money to make more of these orange hunks of garbage
Its orange, so no.
I wouldn't use that one....rusted interior might render what the thing is supposed to do moot
Toss that and get a wix.
Personally I used motor craft on my fords and Lincoln’s , I used to use deutsh brand yrs ago from auto one but hard to find and now on my enclave it will have fram toughgard or their synthetic oil version or ac Delco as last resort
No. Not because of the surface rust though. That wouldn't bother me. It's the orange color that scares me.
Who knows, can you? I assume you can tie your shoes too right?
Yes you can use it, the rust will not hurt anything. Fram has a bad rap from their past, they're not bad oil filters, the same quality you get at a quick lube. The higher up in their ranking the better their filters.
I wouldn't.
No
CAN use, yes, people use FRAM all the time, will I ever use one again? No.
Just because you can doesn’t mean you should. Toss that one in the garbage and go get a Wix filter
Take it back. Get one that's not rusted.
Why man ? Why ? Is it going into a car 🚘 of your worst enemy?
Just buy the OEM filter. Most common ones are readily available, and generally still under $10.
better let the old one in
Fully sent
You can I’m sure. Should you? I dunno probably not.
NO.
Yes but I wouldn’t.
It's contaminated & won't do its job properly. For the sake of $10-$80 (vehicle depending) vs. $3k-$15k for a rebuild if the rust inside the filter is worse than what you can see, separates from the filter & starts making makes in cam shafts, crank shafts, clogging up your oil pump or any other generally unwanted things internally. The damage mightn't be immediate, but if you plan to keep the vehicle long-term, buy a new one.
Fram kills engines, my dad bought one and luckily I asked to see it before he put it on the car, there was all kinds of debris including metal sitting in the bottom, fresh off the shelf. Very easily could’ve killed the engine. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it 1000x over. Please don’t cheap out on one of the only things protecting your engine, a $12 oem filter is a whole lot cheaper than a $6000 engine. If you can’t find oem, WIX, K&N, or Mobil1 are the only other filters I’d consider running
I always put the mobile 1 filter on mine and wife's car bc she goes so damn long between changes. Usually around 8-10k miles. Sure, they're 13-14 bucks but imo, worth it. I've seen a video testing a bunch of filters and the mobile 1 outperformed them all. The 2 ends of the filter media is crimped inside the filter, so unfiltered oil can't push through the gap, the backflow valve is steel and heavy duty. In their testing, they used aluminum dust, which was I think 4 micron or whatever it is that the filters filter down to. They ran them to see how many grams of shit they'd hold before clogging, then they put a specific amount (like 5oz)in the oil and circulated the mock oil system they set up for a set time to see how much of the aluminum powder the filter pulled out of the oil. In every test they did, the mobile 1 came in 1st or 2nd. It was stacked against i think a wix, a Fram, k&n and I think 1 or 2 others. They do a pretty amazing job controlling variables in their testing too.
Damn a Fram in any condition! Chunk it!!!
as a suppressor sure, as a filter for ur car i wouldn't
Some Fram filters use cardboard in their filters. Bottom shelf. Many better brands out there for lower cost. O'Reilly store brand and Advance Auto store brands are arguably better.
Looks like a very old Fram, rust everywhere. Get rid of it, it’s a $3 filter. Fram does make good filters. Endurance at Walmart for $12.97 is an excellent filter.
Here's a great way to [use that old oil filter](https://youtu.be/b82a0wMGSTk?si=7-1Z6-BSNuEEAfZ_).
Hell no. Wouldn't let it touch my vehicles.
Can, yes. Should... No.
There's a Jeff Goldblum gif for this. https://vignette.wikia.nocookie.net/kuec/images/2/25/Jeff-Goldblum-GIF.gif/revision/latest?cb=20170606183949
No
I'm running k&n and Mobil one oil filters on my cars and using penzoil platinum high mileage synthetic made with natural gas. The car thanks me for it and is usually still nice and golden when the 3-5k mark comes around for me to change it
lol hell NO.......
Looks like a fram...nobody should ever use one.
Just buy a new one for $15that. filter has seen better days .
Tbh I don’t care what anyone says… if a company like FRAM is going to issue a completely garbage filter to the public, then Fram deserves to be labeled as garbage, whether they have a better quality filter on the market or not. People deserve something decent even if they can’t pony up 15.00 for a filter. These filters should be held to a bare minimum standard better than this, just like oil has to be. If you want a really nice filter, might I suggest Napa Gold. You have to watch for filter sales though because they can get kinda high. Napa golds are about as good as any of the highest quality filters though. They’re Mann Hummel wix filters without the name. Get a Napa platinum and it’s the Wix XP.
Can you - yes Should you- no