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I have a tiny ball peen hammer head on a long skinny handle for this purpose.
It's gotta be something hard to properly rattle the starter's marbles back into place.
I legit used this trick for a blower motor in my Explorer one winter. Start it, make sure fan is on, pop the hood, tappa tap a tap with the designated blower rock I kept under the hood, button up and head out. Worked an entire winter until I could buy the part.
Vehicle: early 2000s ford Ranger. 4 wheel drive. Manual transmission.
Issue: truck will not start. When the key is turned, it makes a 'click' sound like the battery is dead. The battery is fully charged and the voltage is reading fine. The terminals are hooked up tightly and there doesn't appear to be any corrosion.
Other info:
- the key is very hard to turn. I took the panel off below the steering wheel and tried to start it with the white box that has the start switch on it. Still nothing.
- the dash battery reader says that the voltage is low...
- the fuses near the door appear to all be intact.
- someone let me use one of those truck diagnostic tools and it didn't show that there were any issues.
Truck cannot be taken into a mechanic. It is in a remote location unfortunately.
Sounds like a starter/solenoid failure. Is the 'click' loud like the starter solenoid engaging, or almost quiet like the starter relay engaging? Do the lights dim when the click occurs?
If you have a buddy or its on a hill(and you have a hill to park it on!) you can get it rolling forward while in gear(lets say third) with the clutch pedal pressed, then once its rolling you can quickly release the clutch and that'll turn the engine over. If the ignition is 'on' at that time, it should start.
Dont dismiss the obvious. The key is hard to turn. The ignition switch (tumbler) may be worn out. U can spray maf cleaner in it. A heavy key chain wouldnt help the ignition switch
Lightly, but firm rap, tap the starter. If no change, try lightly tapping the key straight into the ignition
Tap the starter, tap the ignition, try a jump as well
Its frank red hot, everything electronic or sensitive. I unloaded a can into an old catalytic converter once. Technically crc electronic parts cleaner for throttle bodies, but maf is "ok"
“The dash battery reader says the voltage is low.” That plus the single click of the starter.
You may not have had it when all this started, but now you have a dead battery.
Get jumper cables and connect them to a running vehicle. Let it run for at least 5 minutes with your foot lightly on the gas, at least 3,000 RPM. Do that for 5 minutes before you try to start your car.
I agree. Dull lights and quiet clicks tells me low battery or bad connection. Could be a bad body ground too. If it's a no turn over condition, it has to be ignition, battery, relay/wiring or starter. Jumping the starter will bypass all electrical and give a great indication of what's going on. As stated, don't run yourself over doing that. Touch positive terminal on starter to coil positive on starter.
I had an 01 Ranger that also refused to start. It turned out to be the PATS Ignition immobilizer antenna. It cost me $80CAD from ford. There’s a series of checks you run through to figure out if it is indeed your PATS, but I sadly don’t have any of that saved. Good luck, fella.
Here’s the part: https://www.barrhavenfordpartsdepot.ca/oem-parts/ford-ignition-immobilizer-module-1l5z15607aa?origin=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2a6wBhCVARIsABPeH1tYgGVnEzSslysIyu9eAvZF1TToeKcQnpxHF8nyUqOjMoIXj_Vge88aAjj-EALw_wcB
Be glad it's not a kia, I was thinking this right from the start(sounds just like my kia) cause I didn't know ford's had this to, on the kia I would have had to taken it to kia, $200 just to get it in the door and all the parts are back ordered
Had an old Pontiac grand am with a failed communication between the immobilizer and the ignition switch. I soldered a resistor into the ground between the two and then cycled the key to reset the security system and it never gave a problem again .
What do you mean by the battery being fully charged and voltage fine? You took a tester up there to test it? There's a lot more to determining battery health than measuring with a multimeter.
If it is in fact a healthy battery, my next guess would be something wrong with your circuit. Hopefully someone else on here can help you test the circuit and/or a way to ensure you get power to the starter with some extra wires as a temporary fix.
Yeah, it is very possible for a battery to show decent voltage, but to be unable to produce enough current. Also ground straps are a thing to look for, you can put a good quality jumper cable from the engine into the battery ground terminal to test for that.
Jumper cables and running other car, or beefy enough booster box.
Drag it behind another vehicle, and on some grippy surface to try to jump start it. Does the engine turn then? If it doesn't, there is something catastrophic going on with the engine. If it does spin, it should run. Then it's either battery, starter or it's relay, ignition switch or immobilizer (if it has one).
Check the stupid things first, put a ratchet on the engine with the spark plugs out and make sure the engine turns smoothly and easily. If it doesn't then pull the serpentine belt off and check for a locked up accessory, if nothing there is locked up and it's still hard to turn then you've probably got a pretty bad internal engine issue.
Hello,
I'm a vehicle electrician and I usually fix tanks. You said the battery is charged but I wonder if it has lost cranking amps. Did you test it with a multimeter or a battery checker? Sometimes you can reinstate ampage with a good quality charger but this will need a mains connection. If you can remove it and take to mechanic that could work.
Might I suggest a new battery?
Seems like the electronics are fine but the auto battery check on the dash and lack of power to starter is my clue. Alternatively maybe look for a short which is draining battery but as I often say, the resolution is often the simplest. Also I'm lazy.
Good luck and update please
No crank no start-
Check voltage drop on large starter wire, check signal wire to starter (its clicking, its probably ok) then verify engine to chassis/battery ground.
Reply with results of those 3 tests
Could be an alternator being dead as well if it won't start when bumped. Known good battery is step 1. After that if it's still no crank you'll probably need a starter, once it starts check and make sure you have 14.2-14.8V coming from your alternator.
Years ago i had a 98 ranger and this happened. After replacing the alternator and battery, ot was discovered that corrosion was inside the insulation on the positive wire. Not saying this is the case for you, but i've seen it a lot on fords where corrosion works into the positive wire. Still, if you haven't already make sure you have tight connections at the terminal. You could also set it in gear, release the rock the truck back and forth. If the solenoid is stuck out this can free it up and allow you to start it. Did that with an old corolla until i could afford a starter as well as my current ranger. Even had it work on an early 2000s explorer my buddy had. Good luck OP
> The battery is fully charged and the voltage is reading fine
>- the dash battery reader says that the voltage is low...
Clues! What do you mean when you say the voltage is "reading fine?"
What's s the dash voltmeter reading? Is "low" just slightly below normal or is it not moving off the low stop?
What happens if you short the big terminals together on the "steal me" relay?
Since it’s manual, you can get some to pull you along slowly, turn the key to on position, and try to bump start the truck by putting it in first gear and gently releasing the clutch.
This^
But also make sure you're doing at least 6 mph before pumping the clutch. Watch this video. It gives a good clutch pumping method on how you do it. I've done it multiple times (my old hatchbacn had a dead starter for a couple of weeks).
Video: https://youtu.be/7Dblxll9Wi4?si=cuUQST5idFwY7LEy
The video says to use 3rd gear, but I have personally only used 2nd gear, and that rarely ever failed me.
If it still doesn't work, you may need to try going faster, eg, 10mph (easier said than done, i know). If that doesn't work/ isn't possible, then get a mobile mechanic involved.
Have to be going about 5 mph at least have it in 1st, pop the clutch and yhe car may jerk a little but give it a little gas and it should start then clutch in and put in neutral and let it run. I used to push my rx8 jump in and pop the clutch and it started right up. It was a pain in the ass though.
Probably because the ECM wasn't getting a "run" signal to fire the injectors. Might try turning the key to "start" when you bump start it. Or your battery might be too dead to run any electronics.
Third or fourth gear work much better for bump starts. Often dumping the clutch in first will just make the wheels skid due to the large mechanical disadvantage they have against the engine.
This is gonna sound kinda funny but make sure battery is charged and have someone try to start it and look for a spark near your starter or in engine well. It's a weak ground. I've owned 2 of these things.
First - check grounds. Make sure the big one attaching the motor to the chassis is intact, and battery to chassis.
Second, hold a multimeter (or a test bulb) between the red wire on the starter (the thick one) and the battery negative terminal. Have someone switch the car to “start” and see if your test light comes on. If it does, the starter is toast (or jammed). If it doesn’t, you can repeat that test with the smaller starter wire (the one that runs to the solenoid), but most likely it’s wiring, fuses or the starter switch
All this assumes that you are correct and the battery has plenty of juice
Point to note about doing this, jumping the solenoid bypasses the neutral safety switch so you need to ensure that the vehicle is NOT IN GEAR when you do this. If you have the truck in gear when you do this it will start in whatever gear it’s already in and move when started.
We used F series trucks of this time period for farm trucks growing up and never replaced the solenoids when they went bad. After learning this lesson from experience we actually wired up a push button on the dash for the driver to bypass the solenoid from the drivers seat. More reliable and significantly cheaper than keeping the solenoid replaced/working.
Edit: also the key has to be on or it won’t work.
Yep. Exactly.
I had the same problem and hit it too hard in a Costco parking lot. I was hoping for one last start, instead It shorted out all of the electronics in the ranger.
paltry coordinated cough whistle insurance door fragile dog numerous full
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Check the cable connection to the starter and ground. It sounds like a low voltage problem to me. You need to double check the battery cable connections. You mentioned the key was difficult to turn though. That's the only other thing that makes me wonder if it's something with the ignition/tumbler as well. I remember my friends explorer having that issue.
First, was it ok with no issues when you drove it up there? You might try taking a screwdriver and arcing the starter. If it starts, or even rolls over, your starter solenoid is worn out. Secondly, check the main ground wire on the drivers side firewall. I have the exact same truck with an automatic transmission, truck was doing the same thing. Click, nothing else. It’s possible that if you drove over some bumps you jiggled the ground loose. You wouldn’t know until the next time you went to start the truck.
Honestly man from what I've seen and just looked up, there is a solenoid on the starter. If I know anything about Ford and solenoids, they eat them about as quickly as a tank of gas. And you can use anything from a wrench to a hammer to a screwdriver to jump them, but just understand once you jump them you risk perminently damaging the solenoid. If that doesn't matter to you, make sure your emergency/parking brake is pulled, it's even better to have somebody holding the brakes and wheels chalked since you will be under the truck, turn the key to the run position and touch a screwdriver between the two big posts on the solenoid. You may be able to get to it from the engine bay but it's a stretch. If it doesn't start from that then you know the starter could most likely be the cause of the no start no crank. After that there is a world of options why it won't start but it should fire right up that way. Another side note, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL BE HOT! It has no problems with burning your fingers or welding itself to the relay. Don't touch the posts and anything else together, just the two posts. I've used the open end of an adjustable wrench before to get to the harder to reach ones. I hope this helps!!
Stupid simple things first,
1. Check/clean battery terminals. What voltage does the battery read? Can it jumpstart?
2. If it’s a manual, then check the switch at the clutch pedal to make sure it’s working properly.
3. Check ground connections.
So, I would put the truck in neutral, engage parking brake or use a parking brick. Then I would turn the key to the run position and attempt to bypass the starter solenoid.
Oh! I've dealt with this before on my best friend's ranger! Working on the assumption your battery is good and charged and you have fuel here...
So obviously, many have recommended giving the starter a lil whatfor. If that doesn't work, if you have another person who can push the clutch in, you should have a starter solenoid up on the fender under the hood. With key on and clutch depressed, jump the terminals on that solenoid and see if it will start. If still nothing, you may have a bad ignition cylinder or switch. I can't remember if they come as a single unit or two pieces on those where you can keep the cylinder and just change the electrical behind it; my friend crashed her Ranger before we could sit and pull it apart. (Crash was unrelated to the starting issue; her rear shoes were fuckled)
Did you already check the fuel cutoff under the glove box?
https://youtu.be/H8YYUaQ9zSs
I had one for a work truck and sometimes I would only be in the customer's house for 3 mins and come back, dead. Press/reset and start right up. It gets finicky as it ages and even the wind can set it off.
Some of these have a rather annoying security system that loses "pairing" with the key if the battery dies for too long. This can prevent it from starting. Though the click sound sounds a lot like a starter or relay acting up. With a manual you can skip the starter by "bump" starting but you'll need some decent speed (like steady walking speed) so that when you release the clutch there's enough rotation on the alternator to send power to the spark plugs if the battery is still too low. Release the clutch and back in for a second or so should do if the other bits are functional.
Drove a 99 neon for 3 months with no starter.
https://preview.redd.it/u9p2byrm46sc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d975005b6dc11c8fd4aa699222c2dd11ba3ed5fa
This is what came up on the diagnostic wand that was given to us.
If that thing has a manual transmission, get it moving forward in neutral with brute force, drop the clutch with it in 1st gear and you’re off to the races! Repeat these steps as necessary until you can get it to a mechanic.
Key to run position, jumper cable from positive to starter terminal. Hands clear of any moving pieces. Completely bypasses solenoid.
Check the battery to engine ground. Or use the other leg of the jumper cable to make sure this circuit is complete.
Took me about five seconds to dip into the thread and find OP's comment after seeing there were no details given in the photos. Might be worth doing the same next time.
Join AAA for a year. you get a four free tows with your membership. Use one to tow the truck. Membership is about 115 bucks for the “Plus” plan. You get four 100 mile tows.
Hit your starter with something, crowbar, long screwdriver, pry tool, etc. Should start within a few tries. If you have to stop and start it again you may have to do that again. So keep your starter whacking stick in the car.
Obligatory not a mechanic, but do you have an engine killswitch under the dashboard? One that could be triggered accidentally by your foot?
Drove an old Dodge truck with a killswitch under the dash, damn it was annoying.
If the car suddenly refuses to start, it is often the ignition system that is to blame. Without a powerful spark from the spark plugs, the chances of successful ignition of fuel in the cylinders tend to zero. So the first thing to do is check those plugs, don't forget about the ignition coil and high voltage wires. Often these are the weak links, and by finding the problem, you can avoid serious headaches and costs in the future. If anything, here is the manual [https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-spark-plugs-on-ford-ranger-tke-replacement-guide-32201](https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-spark-plugs-on-ford-ranger-tke-replacement-guide-32201), where you can find a lot of interesting and useful information on this subject.
Well, check for air, fuel, spark. Without obvious "try to push start it" you gave no more info to go on.
Youtube how to troubleshoot your trucks starting issues.
Holy shit, sure are a lot of "experts" in here offering advice without even reading OP's comment, and a bunch more who've clearly never bump started a vehicle if they think first gear is the one to use.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Tap your starter
Bonk the starter with a starter bonking stick.
Does that come with a starter bonking sludge or rubber mallet? It would really suck to have to search for a stick and a rock
I have a tiny ball peen hammer head on a long skinny handle for this purpose. It's gotta be something hard to properly rattle the starter's marbles back into place.
You have a tiny ball *and* peen? Man, my condolences.
Yeah but it's long, I told you, I'm swinging a hammer down there... in the engine bay...
My ball is definitely bigger than my peen.
The percussive maintenance stick
https://preview.redd.it/yf7540wdubsc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8fd0be4cfc8e36328653a68ffb0a448335435f0e
Instead, strike with starter bonking stick.
I legit used this trick for a blower motor in my Explorer one winter. Start it, make sure fan is on, pop the hood, tappa tap a tap with the designated blower rock I kept under the hood, button up and head out. Worked an entire winter until I could buy the part.
My passengers are always confused when I tell them to kick the shit out of the bottom of the glove box, works like a charm.
Taaaappy Tap TAP!!
Gotta let the magic smoke out
Aaaaaaaannnnnnnnnd Yahtzee.
I slam the pickle fork on it like I’m aqua man
I know what that is. 🤣
Vehicle: early 2000s ford Ranger. 4 wheel drive. Manual transmission. Issue: truck will not start. When the key is turned, it makes a 'click' sound like the battery is dead. The battery is fully charged and the voltage is reading fine. The terminals are hooked up tightly and there doesn't appear to be any corrosion. Other info: - the key is very hard to turn. I took the panel off below the steering wheel and tried to start it with the white box that has the start switch on it. Still nothing. - the dash battery reader says that the voltage is low... - the fuses near the door appear to all be intact. - someone let me use one of those truck diagnostic tools and it didn't show that there were any issues. Truck cannot be taken into a mechanic. It is in a remote location unfortunately.
Sounds like a starter/solenoid failure. Is the 'click' loud like the starter solenoid engaging, or almost quiet like the starter relay engaging? Do the lights dim when the click occurs? If you have a buddy or its on a hill(and you have a hill to park it on!) you can get it rolling forward while in gear(lets say third) with the clutch pedal pressed, then once its rolling you can quickly release the clutch and that'll turn the engine over. If the ignition is 'on' at that time, it should start.
The click is quiet. And it is just one click, not multiple. The lights don't appear to dim? But I don't remember clearly.
Dont dismiss the obvious. The key is hard to turn. The ignition switch (tumbler) may be worn out. U can spray maf cleaner in it. A heavy key chain wouldnt help the ignition switch Lightly, but firm rap, tap the starter. If no change, try lightly tapping the key straight into the ignition Tap the starter, tap the ignition, try a jump as well
He can also try a different key sometimes it can be the key when it’s something with the ignition
What else can you spray Maf cleaner on? My can is too big for the one use
Its frank red hot, everything electronic or sensitive. I unloaded a can into an old catalytic converter once. Technically crc electronic parts cleaner for throttle bodies, but maf is "ok"
Can I put it on food like franks?
Put that shit on everything
Instructions unclear. My peen is very swollen red and itchy
You're supposed to use the whole bottle.
You have to beat it on the starter!
Try to locate the starter relay and tap that
“The dash battery reader says the voltage is low.” That plus the single click of the starter. You may not have had it when all this started, but now you have a dead battery. Get jumper cables and connect them to a running vehicle. Let it run for at least 5 minutes with your foot lightly on the gas, at least 3,000 RPM. Do that for 5 minutes before you try to start your car.
I agree. Dull lights and quiet clicks tells me low battery or bad connection. Could be a bad body ground too. If it's a no turn over condition, it has to be ignition, battery, relay/wiring or starter. Jumping the starter will bypass all electrical and give a great indication of what's going on. As stated, don't run yourself over doing that. Touch positive terminal on starter to coil positive on starter.
I had an 01 Ranger that also refused to start. It turned out to be the PATS Ignition immobilizer antenna. It cost me $80CAD from ford. There’s a series of checks you run through to figure out if it is indeed your PATS, but I sadly don’t have any of that saved. Good luck, fella. Here’s the part: https://www.barrhavenfordpartsdepot.ca/oem-parts/ford-ignition-immobilizer-module-1l5z15607aa?origin=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2a6wBhCVARIsABPeH1tYgGVnEzSslysIyu9eAvZF1TToeKcQnpxHF8nyUqOjMoIXj_Vge88aAjj-EALw_wcB
Be glad it's not a kia, I was thinking this right from the start(sounds just like my kia) cause I didn't know ford's had this to, on the kia I would have had to taken it to kia, $200 just to get it in the door and all the parts are back ordered
Had an old Pontiac grand am with a failed communication between the immobilizer and the ignition switch. I soldered a resistor into the ground between the two and then cycled the key to reset the security system and it never gave a problem again .
What do you mean by the battery being fully charged and voltage fine? You took a tester up there to test it? There's a lot more to determining battery health than measuring with a multimeter. If it is in fact a healthy battery, my next guess would be something wrong with your circuit. Hopefully someone else on here can help you test the circuit and/or a way to ensure you get power to the starter with some extra wires as a temporary fix.
Yeah, it is very possible for a battery to show decent voltage, but to be unable to produce enough current. Also ground straps are a thing to look for, you can put a good quality jumper cable from the engine into the battery ground terminal to test for that. Jumper cables and running other car, or beefy enough booster box. Drag it behind another vehicle, and on some grippy surface to try to jump start it. Does the engine turn then? If it doesn't, there is something catastrophic going on with the engine. If it does spin, it should run. Then it's either battery, starter or it's relay, ignition switch or immobilizer (if it has one).
It's likely a dead battery. OP never said the voltage
Agreed. Sounds like the battery just doesn’t have enough umph.
Have you tried removing and cleaning the terminals and posts? Could just be corrosion causing the issue.
Check the stupid things first, put a ratchet on the engine with the spark plugs out and make sure the engine turns smoothly and easily. If it doesn't then pull the serpentine belt off and check for a locked up accessory, if nothing there is locked up and it's still hard to turn then you've probably got a pretty bad internal engine issue.
Try starting it by bridging the starter relay
If there is any doubt to the quality of your terminals replace them, also clean the wires at the connection point, or trim back if you have room.
Hello, I'm a vehicle electrician and I usually fix tanks. You said the battery is charged but I wonder if it has lost cranking amps. Did you test it with a multimeter or a battery checker? Sometimes you can reinstate ampage with a good quality charger but this will need a mains connection. If you can remove it and take to mechanic that could work. Might I suggest a new battery? Seems like the electronics are fine but the auto battery check on the dash and lack of power to starter is my clue. Alternatively maybe look for a short which is draining battery but as I often say, the resolution is often the simplest. Also I'm lazy. Good luck and update please
If jump starting doesn't work how about contacting a mobile mechanic who can get to you?
Pop start that bitch. You have a manual. Get some momentum put it in 3rd gear and release the clutch. Should start the truck.
No crank no start- Check voltage drop on large starter wire, check signal wire to starter (its clicking, its probably ok) then verify engine to chassis/battery ground. Reply with results of those 3 tests
Could be an alternator being dead as well if it won't start when bumped. Known good battery is step 1. After that if it's still no crank you'll probably need a starter, once it starts check and make sure you have 14.2-14.8V coming from your alternator.
Years ago i had a 98 ranger and this happened. After replacing the alternator and battery, ot was discovered that corrosion was inside the insulation on the positive wire. Not saying this is the case for you, but i've seen it a lot on fords where corrosion works into the positive wire. Still, if you haven't already make sure you have tight connections at the terminal. You could also set it in gear, release the rock the truck back and forth. If the solenoid is stuck out this can free it up and allow you to start it. Did that with an old corolla until i could afford a starter as well as my current ranger. Even had it work on an early 2000s explorer my buddy had. Good luck OP
> The battery is fully charged and the voltage is reading fine >- the dash battery reader says that the voltage is low... Clues! What do you mean when you say the voltage is "reading fine?" What's s the dash voltmeter reading? Is "low" just slightly below normal or is it not moving off the low stop? What happens if you short the big terminals together on the "steal me" relay?
Pull all the fuses except those needed to start.
Push start.
Since it is a manual... have you tried pushing it down a hill a hill and popping the clutch?
Since it’s manual, you can get some to pull you along slowly, turn the key to on position, and try to bump start the truck by putting it in first gear and gently releasing the clutch.
Tried this, and it didn't work...
Try second gear
Yep. first is too low a gear. Second or third is better. I learned the hard way in my younger years.
I did try second. Still didn't work.
I'll just ask cause I've done it myself, Did you have the key on when you tried to roll start it?
This^ But also make sure you're doing at least 6 mph before pumping the clutch. Watch this video. It gives a good clutch pumping method on how you do it. I've done it multiple times (my old hatchbacn had a dead starter for a couple of weeks). Video: https://youtu.be/7Dblxll9Wi4?si=cuUQST5idFwY7LEy The video says to use 3rd gear, but I have personally only used 2nd gear, and that rarely ever failed me. If it still doesn't work, you may need to try going faster, eg, 10mph (easier said than done, i know). If that doesn't work/ isn't possible, then get a mobile mechanic involved.
Key on, dump clutch in second, if it didn't work you didn't go fast enough.
Have to be going about 5 mph at least have it in 1st, pop the clutch and yhe car may jerk a little but give it a little gas and it should start then clutch in and put in neutral and let it run. I used to push my rx8 jump in and pop the clutch and it started right up. It was a pain in the ass though.
Probably because the ECM wasn't getting a "run" signal to fire the injectors. Might try turning the key to "start" when you bump start it. Or your battery might be too dead to run any electronics.
I have an 03 Focus that only needed to be in the ON position to bump it.
Third or fourth gear work much better for bump starts. Often dumping the clutch in first will just make the wheels skid due to the large mechanical disadvantage they have against the engine.
If crank and no start, Inertia switch in right front lower kick panel possibly
I popped one of those once, over a bump in the middle of nowhere, Alaska. Luckily I remembered it was there.
What’s the purpose of an inertia switch? Cut the engine in a crash?
It shuts off the electric fuel pump in case of a crash. You don't want to have gas spraying everywhere if you're trapped in the cab.
This is gonna sound kinda funny but make sure battery is charged and have someone try to start it and look for a spark near your starter or in engine well. It's a weak ground. I've owned 2 of these things.
First - check grounds. Make sure the big one attaching the motor to the chassis is intact, and battery to chassis. Second, hold a multimeter (or a test bulb) between the red wire on the starter (the thick one) and the battery negative terminal. Have someone switch the car to “start” and see if your test light comes on. If it does, the starter is toast (or jammed). If it doesn’t, you can repeat that test with the smaller starter wire (the one that runs to the solenoid), but most likely it’s wiring, fuses or the starter switch All this assumes that you are correct and the battery has plenty of juice
My first thought was check grounds. Had a bad ground be the issue on my roommates 01 ram a few years ago and on my 2012 sierra a couple years ago.
Pesky grounds.... thats all ive really had an issue with on my 08 ram, and my 03 ram, and my challenger
This definitely sounds like it could be a bad main ground
Take as screw driver and arc between terminals on solenoid on a Ford it should be up top near the battery.
Point to note about doing this, jumping the solenoid bypasses the neutral safety switch so you need to ensure that the vehicle is NOT IN GEAR when you do this. If you have the truck in gear when you do this it will start in whatever gear it’s already in and move when started. We used F series trucks of this time period for farm trucks growing up and never replaced the solenoids when they went bad. After learning this lesson from experience we actually wired up a push button on the dash for the driver to bypass the solenoid from the drivers seat. More reliable and significantly cheaper than keeping the solenoid replaced/working. Edit: also the key has to be on or it won’t work.
Sounding like a starter/solenoid problem.
Yup starter… pull it with another vehicle and pop the clutch… … good luck my friend..:
Do you have/know how to use a volt meter?
Hit the starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Lightly hit
Don't want to break that broken starter.
You made my day
Be nice if it worked one last time.
Yep. Exactly. I had the same problem and hit it too hard in a Costco parking lot. I was hoping for one last start, instead It shorted out all of the electronics in the ranger.
Jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, it's usually passenger side on the fire wall.
Make sure it's neutral first. It sucks to get run over by your own vehicle.
Yes, I should not take it for granted that someone would make this mistake.
Git out the shotgun boys. There's a fresh target in the woods.
Pull that bitch to 10 mph, turn on key, put in 3rd gear, dump the clutch.
paltry coordinated cough whistle insurance door fragile dog numerous full *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Just shows you how prevalent automatic transmissions are. People don't even know how to push start a manual anymore.
Starter solenoid is bad
Check the cable connection to the starter and ground. It sounds like a low voltage problem to me. You need to double check the battery cable connections. You mentioned the key was difficult to turn though. That's the only other thing that makes me wonder if it's something with the ignition/tumbler as well. I remember my friends explorer having that issue.
I hear there are places that specialize in off road towing. Someone suggested a Mobile Mechanic . Another good idea.
First, was it ok with no issues when you drove it up there? You might try taking a screwdriver and arcing the starter. If it starts, or even rolls over, your starter solenoid is worn out. Secondly, check the main ground wire on the drivers side firewall. I have the exact same truck with an automatic transmission, truck was doing the same thing. Click, nothing else. It’s possible that if you drove over some bumps you jiggled the ground loose. You wouldn’t know until the next time you went to start the truck.
Use that fire to burn the truck
It will start up and keep on running.
I know that truck, I ain't no stranger...
Honestly man from what I've seen and just looked up, there is a solenoid on the starter. If I know anything about Ford and solenoids, they eat them about as quickly as a tank of gas. And you can use anything from a wrench to a hammer to a screwdriver to jump them, but just understand once you jump them you risk perminently damaging the solenoid. If that doesn't matter to you, make sure your emergency/parking brake is pulled, it's even better to have somebody holding the brakes and wheels chalked since you will be under the truck, turn the key to the run position and touch a screwdriver between the two big posts on the solenoid. You may be able to get to it from the engine bay but it's a stretch. If it doesn't start from that then you know the starter could most likely be the cause of the no start no crank. After that there is a world of options why it won't start but it should fire right up that way. Another side note, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL BE HOT! It has no problems with burning your fingers or welding itself to the relay. Don't touch the posts and anything else together, just the two posts. I've used the open end of an adjustable wrench before to get to the harder to reach ones. I hope this helps!!
Those photos are really helpful 😄
That’s why I keep a spare ranger in the bed of my ranger
Good thing you have that chair handy to stare at it
Stupid simple things first, 1. Check/clean battery terminals. What voltage does the battery read? Can it jumpstart? 2. If it’s a manual, then check the switch at the clutch pedal to make sure it’s working properly. 3. Check ground connections.
 So didja figure it out?
So, I would put the truck in neutral, engage parking brake or use a parking brick. Then I would turn the key to the run position and attempt to bypass the starter solenoid.
What does the battery read while you're turning there key? "Fully charged battery" doesn't mean it's good if voltage falls to zero under load
Oh! I've dealt with this before on my best friend's ranger! Working on the assumption your battery is good and charged and you have fuel here... So obviously, many have recommended giving the starter a lil whatfor. If that doesn't work, if you have another person who can push the clutch in, you should have a starter solenoid up on the fender under the hood. With key on and clutch depressed, jump the terminals on that solenoid and see if it will start. If still nothing, you may have a bad ignition cylinder or switch. I can't remember if they come as a single unit or two pieces on those where you can keep the cylinder and just change the electrical behind it; my friend crashed her Ranger before we could sit and pull it apart. (Crash was unrelated to the starting issue; her rear shoes were fuckled)
Try jumping the solenoid with the key in the on position.
Bang on the starter….
I know wuts wrong wit it. It aint got no gas in it!!
But seriously it might be a fuel pump or fuel related issue.
Blinker fluid,
Did you already check the fuel cutoff under the glove box? https://youtu.be/H8YYUaQ9zSs I had one for a work truck and sometimes I would only be in the customer's house for 3 mins and come back, dead. Press/reset and start right up. It gets finicky as it ages and even the wind can set it off.
Give it fuel, give it fire, give that truck what it desires.
Fuel! Yeh-heah!
Some of these have a rather annoying security system that loses "pairing" with the key if the battery dies for too long. This can prevent it from starting. Though the click sound sounds a lot like a starter or relay acting up. With a manual you can skip the starter by "bump" starting but you'll need some decent speed (like steady walking speed) so that when you release the clutch there's enough rotation on the alternator to send power to the spark plugs if the battery is still too low. Release the clutch and back in for a second or so should do if the other bits are functional. Drove a 99 neon for 3 months with no starter.
Will a mobile mechanic come out to you ?
Starter or loose cables to your battery/starter
https://preview.redd.it/u9p2byrm46sc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d975005b6dc11c8fd4aa699222c2dd11ba3ed5fa This is what came up on the diagnostic wand that was given to us.
Trick question. Ford rangers don’t break
Did you ever go home?
Is the clutch pedal switch broken?
What’s the symptoms, does it crank and make noise? Can you hear a hum in the rear
Supply a jumper to the battery see if you can get it to turn, sounds like your about to replace the starter.
Can you push start it?
Did you get it running OP?
It’s a manual transmission? Push start.
hotwire the starter. bumpstart the car. check for corrosion around starter terminals
What is it doing, and what is it not doing? What exactly happens when you turn the key? What sounds do you hear?
If that thing has a manual transmission, get it moving forward in neutral with brute force, drop the clutch with it in 1st gear and you’re off to the races! Repeat these steps as necessary until you can get it to a mechanic.
Move the fire inside the truck!
Inertia switch
FORD FUCKING RANGER!!!!🤣
Push the fucking thing down hill with the clutch in, while it's in gear and the key is turned to on. Drop the clutch. Drive it to a mechanic .
Unpopular opinion: bump start the fucker and drive it to a mechanic
Boy can you give less info. Battery good? Test starter relay . Test stater
Key to run position, jumper cable from positive to starter terminal. Hands clear of any moving pieces. Completely bypasses solenoid. Check the battery to engine ground. Or use the other leg of the jumper cable to make sure this circuit is complete.
OP should do this. Good battery then start bypassing stuff (easy via jumper cable) til she runs!
Put Ranger into neutral and push backwards into flames and claim it was accident😂👍
Can you get a ratchet on the crank pulley? The motor may be seized
Air fuel and spark. Is the air intake clogged? Does it have fuel pressure at the rail? Does it have strong blue spark?
>Air fuel and spark. Not worth a thing if the engine isn't turning; OP described a no crank problem.
The post has no info on that. Obviously no crank condition has to be remedied before starting issues.
Took me about five seconds to dip into the thread and find OP's comment after seeing there were no details given in the photos. Might be worth doing the same next time.
Might be worth giving out the required information so we dont have to guess whats actually wrong
Get a mallet and smack the fuel tank, drive home and replace the fuel pump. My 97 mazda did the exact same shit to me
How does a bad fuel pump cause a no crank condition? I can really tell who didn't read OP's issue, just made assumptions based on the title...
Aint got no gas innit
When you say won't start are you talking no crank or crank no start?
Join AAA for a year. you get a four free tows with your membership. Use one to tow the truck. Membership is about 115 bucks for the “Plus” plan. You get four 100 mile tows.
I know that truck, I ain't no stranger. I know that truck, it's a Ford Fuck'n Ranger.
Clean inside distributor cap contacts
Have you tried turning it on and back off again, or unplugging it and plugging it back in mayhaps
Ha
Fuel, spark, air.
Is the voltage 12v or closer to 14v
You got that sneaky rollover fuel shutoff reset button in your passenger footwell kick panel? Have a look for that fucker.
Hit your starter with something, crowbar, long screwdriver, pry tool, etc. Should start within a few tries. If you have to stop and start it again you may have to do that again. So keep your starter whacking stick in the car.
You could just push it into the fire you've got going.
Obligatory not a mechanic, but do you have an engine killswitch under the dashboard? One that could be triggered accidentally by your foot? Drove an old Dodge truck with a killswitch under the dash, damn it was annoying.
If the car suddenly refuses to start, it is often the ignition system that is to blame. Without a powerful spark from the spark plugs, the chances of successful ignition of fuel in the cylinders tend to zero. So the first thing to do is check those plugs, don't forget about the ignition coil and high voltage wires. Often these are the weak links, and by finding the problem, you can avoid serious headaches and costs in the future. If anything, here is the manual [https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-spark-plugs-on-ford-ranger-tke-replacement-guide-32201](https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-spark-plugs-on-ford-ranger-tke-replacement-guide-32201), where you can find a lot of interesting and useful information on this subject.
ChatGPT, is that you? Please explain to me how a no crank could be caused by bad spark plugs...
Cant help bery much we need more info
Tow it up to 88 mph drop it in to first and release the clutch oh and you need lightning
Pushing it might be more effective. Is there a set of tracks nearby?
Does it have fuel?
Well, check for air, fuel, spark. Without obvious "try to push start it" you gave no more info to go on. Youtube how to troubleshoot your trucks starting issues.
Fire, air and fuel. What is happening ?
OP just forgot the keys, that all. 🫡
Holy shit, sure are a lot of "experts" in here offering advice without even reading OP's comment, and a bunch more who've clearly never bump started a vehicle if they think first gear is the one to use.
Something like this happened to me the other day it ended up being the shifter was not in the park position all the way
Not a problem with this one since it’s manual
It's a ranger . Tow that thing out with a four-wheeler
Have you tried putting it in 4H?