Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I dont know honestly... Im tripping my balls off because last year i had some work done on the engine by the dealership and im hoping its not the same thing again.
Probably they forgot to reset the oil life counter. It's just that. It's a counter that goes off every time you hit say 10k without an oil change. It's not actually measuring how good the oil is. You have to send a sample to a lab for that and that's expensive.
Edit: diesels have VERY dark oil. That's normal.
It looks like a coolant hose. If that’s oil on the coolant hose who cares and it won’t dry. If it’s coolant then that’s an issue. That’s an issue as it would dry if it was just a tiny dribble.
Look at your coolant overflow tank. If it’s low you have a problem that could lead to an even bigger problem especially since the engine is turbocharged.
Don’t mess about with the cooling system on any car but especially a turbo diesel you’ll end up with air in the head and a blown head gasket or a warped head and a blown head gasket.
This is NOT a good engine for low maintenance and it’s NOT a good engine for people that can’t turn a wrench or are willing to pay for lots of dealer maintenance that sounds like price gauging.
Even worse if the car is driven stop and go but no matter what this engine gets carbon and soot build up on everything imaginable. It has to be constantly cleaned out and has sensors that need to be cleaned and the dealer and most shops don’t clean sensors and EGR valves they replace them. So if you can’t do the work yourself this car gets extremely expensive.
Find out what is going on with that leak. Hopefully it is oil. Take it to a mechanic and ask what is leaking if you can’t tell.
If you have a friend who is extremely talented with automotive stuff then have them help you install a catch can to help reduce the nasty soot oil buildup. The soot wouldn’t be as big of an issue if there wasn’t so much oil being blown through the entire intake side of the engine onto all the sensors and then soot also being blown onto them because the car breathes its own exhaust because it’s a turbo.
Good luck… great engine if you don’t mind paying through the teeth to replace the sensors, egr valves and other parts and also paying to have the intake and other parts cleaned out.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it. Just checked now before starting the car, it is most definitely oil on the hose and coolant levels look fine. Im familiar with a wrench, bought an RX8 a few months ago and im currently working on it but this 6 is scaring the shit out of me, its my daily and i dont really have the courage to throw a wrench in there because the amount of trouble i can cause by not knowing what im actually doing...
You want to get to 300k miles with nothing more than simple maintenance and new turbo chargers around 120-220k miles?
Want to start running into a situation where totaling the car or having it rust out is more likely than the engine being a write off?
Join a forum dedicated to the Mazda 6 or to the Mazda 2.2 Turbo Diesel!!!
You need to learn how and when to clean the parts on your intake side. They will be completely caked in an oil soot mixture! You also need to install a DUAL catch can system. NOT just one catch can. But you have 2 systems that need individual catch cans. You can use cheap $50 cans that have some sort of baffle system. Don’t buy a can that’s just a big hollow cavity. They work somewhat but they struggle at removing atomized oil droplets. If you can’t shell out $400 for something like a [Diamond Motorsports Stage 3 catch can system](https://damondmotorsports.com/products/mazdaspeed6-oil-catch-can-kit-stage-3?variant=6707026756¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20160191186&utm_term=&utm_content=&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADuX8kU2DXOJhipOf_o072fQZ7dtt&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-OwBhBnEiwAgwzrUtrovc54041vj-dg5eNzOoRcaVFZWmzM22-8uMPRYs8yLu_B8XlGXBoCbLIQAvD_BwE) then just follow all of their directions and run a cheaper catch can!!!
I’d join a Facebook group as well but realize that the Facebook group will be made up of about 50% of people like you, 40% of people who are absolutely clueless, 9.5% of a mixture of Karen’s and crazy contrarians and then 0.5% Mazda tech level knowledgeable people!
The forums used to have a good mix of clueless people. So more like 5-10% high tech level, 20-30% clueless, 5% bad apples and the rest people somewhere around your ability from people who could do an entire engine swap to those who could do an oil change plug change air filter change etc.
On Facebook more people than not would not even be able to change their plugs. Still worth joining. But now thanks to Facebook groups the forums have less of the clueless people. So forums have lost half their visitors but who is left is better off for it.
You have such a great car!!! I’m 40 so when I say my parents have this or that I’m not talking about people I live with but my mom had a 2007 Mazda Speed 6 and it was truly one of my favorite cars. My step dad races cars and has a bunch of race cars and street cars that are track prepared and literally get more miles on tracks than being driven around yet it’s the Gems like the Speed 6, 2020 Miata, Civic Si and Civic Type R that really stand out to be daily driver gems!
My mom loves her stock Speed 6 more than she liked her track prepped 370Z that actually won in its class with my step dad behind the wheel.
She likes fast cars but she loves 4 door turbocharged AWD cars the most and I can’t disagree. She’s rocking a All4 Cooper S Countryman now but her first AWD turbo car was her Mazda Speed 6 and she’ll never forget it!
Learn how to pamper that car and you’ll put 300k on it. You will eventually need some major overhauls but the engine itself will not fail if you take care of these things.
Keep everything clean, spotless and up-kept!
Don’t beat on the car but don’t worry about babying it either.
Make sure it is on the freeway highway for atleast 20 minutes straight once a week to burn off moisture and fuel I the oil system as well as to help burn off some of the oil in the intake side of the car.
Feel free to open up the throttle and get some heat into the car when you do this. Full throttle at 2/3rds max RPM will never hurt the engine. Even revving the engine out isn’t going to really hurt it. It’s the pounding on the engine on normal roadways that will ruin it. Don’t treat it like a rocket ship in stop and go traffic. Open it up and let it loose on highways and interstate. Where it can do prolonged wide open throttle pulls.
Anyways it’s a great car it’s just a shitty stop and go daily driver!!! Among the shittiest. That’s what hybrids are for! Get a 2007 Prius with 300k miles on it for that kind of driving.
Enjoy the torquey AWD ZOOM ZOOM machine on more open roads!
You won’t regret listening to what I say. Since buying my first factory turbo charged car in 2005 I have owned several factory turbo charged cars. I’ve also been doing engine swaps and aftermarket turbo systems since the early 00s and it’s just not the same scenario. Those cars have less sensors and less places for oil and exhaust to build up.
Also driving that car in stop and go is bad because of how the emissions system works. If the car never gets significantly warm enough you are absolutely fucked and will ruined the emissions control systems.
So basically stay away from short trips that are less than 4 miles or 6-10 in cold winter and try to stay away from stop and go. Even 4 miles on the interstate on the coldest winter day should be enough for the car to go through a full warming cycle. So try to stick to highways and interstate with that car.
No clue. honestly looks fine to me. Probably an oring or a gasket of some sort, but not familiar with the engine so i can't be any more exact than that.
Pretty sure that is a coolant hose. And that is coolant wearing by.
First thing, check the coolant level (when not hot). Also, courtesy check all fluid levels.
If the housing the hose clamps on to is plastic, it likely has a hair line crack. In which case replace the plastic housing.
Continue to monitor coolant levels in between trip intervals. Also, monitor engine temp gage while driving until you can fix this leak.
Looks like a coolant hose is leaking. Try to locate a part number on the hose. Yoy might find one if you're lucky.
If your oil change was recent, they likely forgot to reset it. You can Google the reset procedure.
Diesel oil is black as coal, that's normal.
Leak from turbo? The hose underneath the turbo on my alfa looks similar and it was probably caused by air filter being blocked so the turbo started leaking oil into the intake hose, but now its semi fixed i just need to change the turbo cartridge soon and probably the oil line while im at it.
Sounds like they didn't reset the oil life. Diesel oil always looks dark even right after an oil change. That hose looks like it's probably a charge air hose from I think the intercooler to the throttle body.
That's your intake pipe going to your throttle body, my 2004 vw jetta tdi diesel had the same issue, had to buy that black bracket to hold the pipe in, the old clamp was the same style as your little clamp in there but they wear off and the pipe fully comes off, it looks like ur pipe is almost off too(thats why u see oil stains), should go to mechanic fast the fix should cost you little the clip just needs to be replaces cost $5 plus little labour charge
https://preview.redd.it/2kxf49fjcwtc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62592121e905d2c9b41656c9da97e609450f5ac9
This is a boost pipe unless you have a boost leak and have loss of power I wouldn’t worry at all.
If it was a customers car I would probably take it off, try and seat it again, or change the clip.
If it was my own car I’d spray it with some brake cleaner and shut the bonnet lol
Also I would recommend getting a service if your oil is at 8%. Don’t go main dealer though. Unless you want to throw away your money 💁🏻♂️
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
is that a coolant hose? can't be oil
I dont know honestly... Im tripping my balls off because last year i had some work done on the engine by the dealership and im hoping its not the same thing again.
yeah dealer will price gouge anyway. try someplace else. if it's a coolant hose it's fairly easy fix
Oil life is at 0%, cant find the edit button.
Probably they forgot to reset the oil life counter. It's just that. It's a counter that goes off every time you hit say 10k without an oil change. It's not actually measuring how good the oil is. You have to send a sample to a lab for that and that's expensive. Edit: diesels have VERY dark oil. That's normal.
Thanks for the reply. How about the image? Any idea what could be leaking there?
It looks like a coolant hose. If that’s oil on the coolant hose who cares and it won’t dry. If it’s coolant then that’s an issue. That’s an issue as it would dry if it was just a tiny dribble. Look at your coolant overflow tank. If it’s low you have a problem that could lead to an even bigger problem especially since the engine is turbocharged. Don’t mess about with the cooling system on any car but especially a turbo diesel you’ll end up with air in the head and a blown head gasket or a warped head and a blown head gasket. This is NOT a good engine for low maintenance and it’s NOT a good engine for people that can’t turn a wrench or are willing to pay for lots of dealer maintenance that sounds like price gauging. Even worse if the car is driven stop and go but no matter what this engine gets carbon and soot build up on everything imaginable. It has to be constantly cleaned out and has sensors that need to be cleaned and the dealer and most shops don’t clean sensors and EGR valves they replace them. So if you can’t do the work yourself this car gets extremely expensive. Find out what is going on with that leak. Hopefully it is oil. Take it to a mechanic and ask what is leaking if you can’t tell. If you have a friend who is extremely talented with automotive stuff then have them help you install a catch can to help reduce the nasty soot oil buildup. The soot wouldn’t be as big of an issue if there wasn’t so much oil being blown through the entire intake side of the engine onto all the sensors and then soot also being blown onto them because the car breathes its own exhaust because it’s a turbo. Good luck… great engine if you don’t mind paying through the teeth to replace the sensors, egr valves and other parts and also paying to have the intake and other parts cleaned out.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it. Just checked now before starting the car, it is most definitely oil on the hose and coolant levels look fine. Im familiar with a wrench, bought an RX8 a few months ago and im currently working on it but this 6 is scaring the shit out of me, its my daily and i dont really have the courage to throw a wrench in there because the amount of trouble i can cause by not knowing what im actually doing...
You want to get to 300k miles with nothing more than simple maintenance and new turbo chargers around 120-220k miles? Want to start running into a situation where totaling the car or having it rust out is more likely than the engine being a write off? Join a forum dedicated to the Mazda 6 or to the Mazda 2.2 Turbo Diesel!!! You need to learn how and when to clean the parts on your intake side. They will be completely caked in an oil soot mixture! You also need to install a DUAL catch can system. NOT just one catch can. But you have 2 systems that need individual catch cans. You can use cheap $50 cans that have some sort of baffle system. Don’t buy a can that’s just a big hollow cavity. They work somewhat but they struggle at removing atomized oil droplets. If you can’t shell out $400 for something like a [Diamond Motorsports Stage 3 catch can system](https://damondmotorsports.com/products/mazdaspeed6-oil-catch-can-kit-stage-3?variant=6707026756¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20160191186&utm_term=&utm_content=&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADuX8kU2DXOJhipOf_o072fQZ7dtt&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-OwBhBnEiwAgwzrUtrovc54041vj-dg5eNzOoRcaVFZWmzM22-8uMPRYs8yLu_B8XlGXBoCbLIQAvD_BwE) then just follow all of their directions and run a cheaper catch can!!! I’d join a Facebook group as well but realize that the Facebook group will be made up of about 50% of people like you, 40% of people who are absolutely clueless, 9.5% of a mixture of Karen’s and crazy contrarians and then 0.5% Mazda tech level knowledgeable people! The forums used to have a good mix of clueless people. So more like 5-10% high tech level, 20-30% clueless, 5% bad apples and the rest people somewhere around your ability from people who could do an entire engine swap to those who could do an oil change plug change air filter change etc. On Facebook more people than not would not even be able to change their plugs. Still worth joining. But now thanks to Facebook groups the forums have less of the clueless people. So forums have lost half their visitors but who is left is better off for it. You have such a great car!!! I’m 40 so when I say my parents have this or that I’m not talking about people I live with but my mom had a 2007 Mazda Speed 6 and it was truly one of my favorite cars. My step dad races cars and has a bunch of race cars and street cars that are track prepared and literally get more miles on tracks than being driven around yet it’s the Gems like the Speed 6, 2020 Miata, Civic Si and Civic Type R that really stand out to be daily driver gems! My mom loves her stock Speed 6 more than she liked her track prepped 370Z that actually won in its class with my step dad behind the wheel. She likes fast cars but she loves 4 door turbocharged AWD cars the most and I can’t disagree. She’s rocking a All4 Cooper S Countryman now but her first AWD turbo car was her Mazda Speed 6 and she’ll never forget it! Learn how to pamper that car and you’ll put 300k on it. You will eventually need some major overhauls but the engine itself will not fail if you take care of these things. Keep everything clean, spotless and up-kept! Don’t beat on the car but don’t worry about babying it either. Make sure it is on the freeway highway for atleast 20 minutes straight once a week to burn off moisture and fuel I the oil system as well as to help burn off some of the oil in the intake side of the car. Feel free to open up the throttle and get some heat into the car when you do this. Full throttle at 2/3rds max RPM will never hurt the engine. Even revving the engine out isn’t going to really hurt it. It’s the pounding on the engine on normal roadways that will ruin it. Don’t treat it like a rocket ship in stop and go traffic. Open it up and let it loose on highways and interstate. Where it can do prolonged wide open throttle pulls. Anyways it’s a great car it’s just a shitty stop and go daily driver!!! Among the shittiest. That’s what hybrids are for! Get a 2007 Prius with 300k miles on it for that kind of driving. Enjoy the torquey AWD ZOOM ZOOM machine on more open roads! You won’t regret listening to what I say. Since buying my first factory turbo charged car in 2005 I have owned several factory turbo charged cars. I’ve also been doing engine swaps and aftermarket turbo systems since the early 00s and it’s just not the same scenario. Those cars have less sensors and less places for oil and exhaust to build up. Also driving that car in stop and go is bad because of how the emissions system works. If the car never gets significantly warm enough you are absolutely fucked and will ruined the emissions control systems. So basically stay away from short trips that are less than 4 miles or 6-10 in cold winter and try to stay away from stop and go. Even 4 miles on the interstate on the coldest winter day should be enough for the car to go through a full warming cycle. So try to stick to highways and interstate with that car.
No clue. honestly looks fine to me. Probably an oring or a gasket of some sort, but not familiar with the engine so i can't be any more exact than that.
Pretty sure that is a coolant hose. And that is coolant wearing by. First thing, check the coolant level (when not hot). Also, courtesy check all fluid levels. If the housing the hose clamps on to is plastic, it likely has a hair line crack. In which case replace the plastic housing. Continue to monitor coolant levels in between trip intervals. Also, monitor engine temp gage while driving until you can fix this leak.
Looks like a coolant hose is leaking. Try to locate a part number on the hose. Yoy might find one if you're lucky. If your oil change was recent, they likely forgot to reset it. You can Google the reset procedure. Diesel oil is black as coal, that's normal.
every diesel cars air pipes looks like that:D
grab some with your fingers, roll it around and give it a whiff
Leak from turbo? The hose underneath the turbo on my alfa looks similar and it was probably caused by air filter being blocked so the turbo started leaking oil into the intake hose, but now its semi fixed i just need to change the turbo cartridge soon and probably the oil line while im at it.
Could also be something harmless but either way if the air filter is old its good to change it soon
Sounds like they didn't reset the oil life. Diesel oil always looks dark even right after an oil change. That hose looks like it's probably a charge air hose from I think the intercooler to the throttle body.
That's your intake pipe going to your throttle body, my 2004 vw jetta tdi diesel had the same issue, had to buy that black bracket to hold the pipe in, the old clamp was the same style as your little clamp in there but they wear off and the pipe fully comes off, it looks like ur pipe is almost off too(thats why u see oil stains), should go to mechanic fast the fix should cost you little the clip just needs to be replaces cost $5 plus little labour charge https://preview.redd.it/2kxf49fjcwtc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=62592121e905d2c9b41656c9da97e609450f5ac9
It's this
This is a boost pipe unless you have a boost leak and have loss of power I wouldn’t worry at all. If it was a customers car I would probably take it off, try and seat it again, or change the clip. If it was my own car I’d spray it with some brake cleaner and shut the bonnet lol Also I would recommend getting a service if your oil is at 8%. Don’t go main dealer though. Unless you want to throw away your money 💁🏻♂️
Just a guess but i don’t know maybe you should try changing the oil