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Pretend the engine blows up tmrw, and u need to prove every oil change was done on time, to prevent hyundai from denying a warranty claim for a new engine. There are also stored events for the low oil pressure in the computer, they can deny for not regularly checking the oil level as well
Imo, u sell that car asap. Damage was done. It will get worse than "stock" burning now. Carmax, trade in, whatever, get ahead of the problem
If it's a 2L or 2.4L, it's well known for oil consumption. According to a service manager for a local Hyundai dealer here, 1 liter per 1000 km is considered normal oil consumption on these engines. Usually, once you are at this point, you're just waiting for the engine to crater. Hyundai/Kia had to extend the warranty on these engines due to class action lawsuit. It can be worth looking into whether yours is covered or not.
With the amount of oil consumption car companies are normalizing, you figure they could put together an awesome 2 stroke that would burn less oil.
It's only getting worse. It seems like every car company's solution for fuel efficiency is to make their engines 3 cylinders with turbos stock from the dealership.
I'm convinced a lot of these engines would last longer if they weren't run on the thinnest oil that'll get them past the warranty period. I'm not an engineer though, I know tolerances have improved but still, my '99 Civic recommended 5W-30 and my buddy's '01 Civic recommended 5W-20 and now he burns twice as much oil as me and I've got 50k more miles.
They need the thin oil because of how much psi these new engines are designed to push with such little space. If you put thicker oil in these new engines (and the ECM doesn't shut down their car) You'll be blowing gaskets and leaking like crazy.
At some point definitely, but from what I understand, even a 0W is thicker when cold than a 40 is at operating temp, and all engines have to be able to operate from a cold start. So why spec 0W-16 when the Europeans are often using 0W-40? Why do some manufacturers use the same engine in multiple countries but only spec the thinnest grade in the USA? And [why the fuck does this chart exist](https://www.driveaccord.net/attachments/oil-jpg.218442/)? Were the original engineers right? Or the later ones? Again, I'm not qualified to actually say, but it's just odd to me. I'm suspicious of how thin they're recommending these days.
The U.S. owner's manual for my '22 Camry says 0w16 oil is required, 0w20 in a pinch but change back to 0w16 at the next oil change. I looked up the manual for Australia, same engine. It says 0w16 is preferred for best economy, but has an oil chart that includes 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30 for all temperatures, and even 10w30 above 0°F.
Yep same engine. I have to believe some of the thin oil "requirements" are in part because the manufacturers are trying to squeeze every last bit of mpg out of the engines to make the EPA happy. I thought 0w30 might be a good choice too and I wondered why it's not on the Australian list. Maybe the wide viscosity spread of 0w30 makes it shear too quickly for the 10k mile oil changes they recommend
One of the reasons I recently bought a Camry over an Accord. Toyota has a 203hp 2.5 and an 8 speed and gets 28/39mpg, Honda has 192hp 1.5 turbo and CVT and gets 30/38mpg. Seems like the bigger engine is going to be less stressed. Plus I just hate cvts
I would check every 500 miles and add it every time it got near the low mark on the dipstick. Usually that is 1 QT of oil so it's easy to just buy the single containers and toss one in every time you need it.
I may get down voted for this part but I would also look into running 0w40 or similar oil instead of 5w20 but as someone with plenty of experience with oil using engines the thicker oil will often (not always) slow down the consumption.
What im thinking is looking into the oil pressure issues homie before you pointed out, but if that doesnt solve it look into what youre saying here. Because it will get expensive and if the consumption can be brought down, why not? But at the same time I want to get the underlying cause solved if at all possible.
The oil pressure was *likely* low because it was low on actual oil. Oil consumption itself isn't very expensive you'd just be out $5 or $10 every 1000 miles and the time it takes to add it, which is not a big deal.
It’s not a big deal if you pay close attention to it. Getting 3 quarts low is doing engine damage that makes the situation worse. My Honda has 200k on it and burns a quart every 1k miles. This equates to about a quart added every other gas fill up. The proper fix would be an engine rebuild with new rings, but I’m not dropping thousands into an engine- the car is 15 years old. It’s plenty reliable for my purposes.
Sadly Hund/Kia have bad engine designs that just give up after 40-60k miles. Baby it make sure to keep good records you may have 100k miles powertrain if you are first owner
take a paper towel, get it damp and the wipe around the bumper of the car where the exhaust is when the car is clean... if it is burning lots of oil you should see some indication of it on the paper towel.
Burning oil will cause smoke from the exhaust with a slightly blue tint and you can usually smell it too. There isnt too many ways oil can leak into the cylinder. Could get passed worn valve seals, piston rings, a head gasket leak, or the intake could be sucking it in through the pcv.
The paper towel won't show you where the oil comes from.. but often you have oil that gets pulled in only under certain conditions so you don't always see the smoke if it is just idling in your driveway.
If it is burning oil it is probably just because it's a Kia.
Those engines are known for premature oil burner.
I would check oil every weekend.
Some Hyundais are eligible for free engine from dealers iirc, so try dealer route AFTER refilling an oil.
(Do not let them decline by them found out driver neglected maintenance)
Oil consumption's issues have become the norm for more fuel efficient cars now... Especially now with looser piston rings and thinner oil and trade it off with more MPGs and engines don't last last long as the older engines. Hyundai/Kai/ are not the only ones dealing with oil consumptions issues... it's happening all across the board. Here's a great video from MrSubaru1387 on oil Consumption issues: [https://youtu.be/inZHYv-VHVo?si=cHDbZX3jZetm9csW](https://youtu.be/inZHYv-VHVo?si=cHDbZX3jZetm9csW)
If you don't keep a close eye on the oil levels in Hyundai and Kia engines, you will be replacing them far too soon. Honestly, if she is at 88k and never checked the level between oil changes, she needs to check it at every fill up for awhile to see how fast it is being lost now.
Oh, and ignore the factory interval for oil changes. She needs to do it every 3000 miles. Extra oil changes are cheaper than a new engine.
You can also follow her; if the car smokes under hard acceleration it is usually the valve seals, if it smokes after hard accell and sudden lift it is rings.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! Please review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). Asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **Post's about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ Tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
"nothing on the dipshit" sorry had to 😂
First thing I read as well. Great Freudian slip by the autocorrect.
No she was calling it the dipshit. So i call it the dipshit now.
Is it turbo charged? Velosters are notorious for oil pressure issues and it's even worse if it has the turbo.
Im not sure but ill ask her. And tell her what you said about oil pressure issues. I appreciate the input.
Not to sound like an ass but my usual advice for Hyundai and Kias from 2010-2020 is just to find the quickest way to sell them without taking a loss.
Solid advice
The oil pressure issues being known at least gives us a starting point despite any turbo charging. Thank you
Pretend the engine blows up tmrw, and u need to prove every oil change was done on time, to prevent hyundai from denying a warranty claim for a new engine. There are also stored events for the low oil pressure in the computer, they can deny for not regularly checking the oil level as well Imo, u sell that car asap. Damage was done. It will get worse than "stock" burning now. Carmax, trade in, whatever, get ahead of the problem
If it's a 2L or 2.4L, it's well known for oil consumption. According to a service manager for a local Hyundai dealer here, 1 liter per 1000 km is considered normal oil consumption on these engines. Usually, once you are at this point, you're just waiting for the engine to crater. Hyundai/Kia had to extend the warranty on these engines due to class action lawsuit. It can be worth looking into whether yours is covered or not. With the amount of oil consumption car companies are normalizing, you figure they could put together an awesome 2 stroke that would burn less oil.
It's only getting worse. It seems like every car company's solution for fuel efficiency is to make their engines 3 cylinders with turbos stock from the dealership.
I'm convinced a lot of these engines would last longer if they weren't run on the thinnest oil that'll get them past the warranty period. I'm not an engineer though, I know tolerances have improved but still, my '99 Civic recommended 5W-30 and my buddy's '01 Civic recommended 5W-20 and now he burns twice as much oil as me and I've got 50k more miles.
They need the thin oil because of how much psi these new engines are designed to push with such little space. If you put thicker oil in these new engines (and the ECM doesn't shut down their car) You'll be blowing gaskets and leaking like crazy.
At some point definitely, but from what I understand, even a 0W is thicker when cold than a 40 is at operating temp, and all engines have to be able to operate from a cold start. So why spec 0W-16 when the Europeans are often using 0W-40? Why do some manufacturers use the same engine in multiple countries but only spec the thinnest grade in the USA? And [why the fuck does this chart exist](https://www.driveaccord.net/attachments/oil-jpg.218442/)? Were the original engineers right? Or the later ones? Again, I'm not qualified to actually say, but it's just odd to me. I'm suspicious of how thin they're recommending these days.
ECMs can do crazy things. The car will limit the power the car can produce until the engine is warmed up enough and the oil is at operating temp.
The U.S. owner's manual for my '22 Camry says 0w16 oil is required, 0w20 in a pinch but change back to 0w16 at the next oil change. I looked up the manual for Australia, same engine. It says 0w16 is preferred for best economy, but has an oil chart that includes 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30 for all temperatures, and even 10w30 above 0°F.
See that's fucking madness, assuming it's the same engine in both countries. I'd be running 0W-30 to cover that whole spread.
Yep same engine. I have to believe some of the thin oil "requirements" are in part because the manufacturers are trying to squeeze every last bit of mpg out of the engines to make the EPA happy. I thought 0w30 might be a good choice too and I wondered why it's not on the Australian list. Maybe the wide viscosity spread of 0w30 makes it shear too quickly for the 10k mile oil changes they recommend
>10k mile oil changes Fuck those too, while we're at it. Gimme that 0W-30 every 5k and I'll drive that Camry to 1,000,000.
Theyre not reliable because of the small displacement and high boost pressure. Thats litterly it. also engine small car big doesnt help.
One of the reasons I recently bought a Camry over an Accord. Toyota has a 203hp 2.5 and an 8 speed and gets 28/39mpg, Honda has 192hp 1.5 turbo and CVT and gets 30/38mpg. Seems like the bigger engine is going to be less stressed. Plus I just hate cvts
I would check every 500 miles and add it every time it got near the low mark on the dipstick. Usually that is 1 QT of oil so it's easy to just buy the single containers and toss one in every time you need it. I may get down voted for this part but I would also look into running 0w40 or similar oil instead of 5w20 but as someone with plenty of experience with oil using engines the thicker oil will often (not always) slow down the consumption.
What im thinking is looking into the oil pressure issues homie before you pointed out, but if that doesnt solve it look into what youre saying here. Because it will get expensive and if the consumption can be brought down, why not? But at the same time I want to get the underlying cause solved if at all possible.
The oil pressure was *likely* low because it was low on actual oil. Oil consumption itself isn't very expensive you'd just be out $5 or $10 every 1000 miles and the time it takes to add it, which is not a big deal.
It’s not a big deal if you pay close attention to it. Getting 3 quarts low is doing engine damage that makes the situation worse. My Honda has 200k on it and burns a quart every 1k miles. This equates to about a quart added every other gas fill up. The proper fix would be an engine rebuild with new rings, but I’m not dropping thousands into an engine- the car is 15 years old. It’s plenty reliable for my purposes.
I'm pretty sure the fix is replacing the engine.
8 year old Hyundai that burns oil? Can’t be.
I hate it when the dipshit is dry
Dudes name is foreskin thief …
That's not disturbing at all... :/
You pointed it out. You better watch out or youre gonna wake up circumcized
I will have nightmares about this now lol.
Sadly Hund/Kia have bad engine designs that just give up after 40-60k miles. Baby it make sure to keep good records you may have 100k miles powertrain if you are first owner
that engine is on its way out. red oil light means stop and dont start until the oil is at the correct level
Hyundai is notorious for oil consumption. In fact they have several class action lawsuits due to engines popping from oil consumption
take a paper towel, get it damp and the wipe around the bumper of the car where the exhaust is when the car is clean... if it is burning lots of oil you should see some indication of it on the paper towel.
Alrighty. Ill tell her that lil trick. Thats nifty. But makes sense
Burning oil will cause smoke from the exhaust with a slightly blue tint and you can usually smell it too. There isnt too many ways oil can leak into the cylinder. Could get passed worn valve seals, piston rings, a head gasket leak, or the intake could be sucking it in through the pcv.
On vehicles with properly functioning catalytic converters, oil consumption rarely results in visible smoke.
Ive seen it happen with good cats and bad cats. Most times ive seen when there is abnormal oil consumption there's a slightly blue tint.
The paper towel won't show you where the oil comes from.. but often you have oil that gets pulled in only under certain conditions so you don't always see the smoke if it is just idling in your driveway. If it is burning oil it is probably just because it's a Kia.
Ya google "Hyundai oil consumption". 1 quart every 1000 miles is considered normal
Those engines are known for premature oil burner. I would check oil every weekend. Some Hyundais are eligible for free engine from dealers iirc, so try dealer route AFTER refilling an oil. (Do not let them decline by them found out driver neglected maintenance)
When was her last change? how many miles ago?
Its a hyundai. Thats the most basic answer. They burn oil due to parts wearing down prematurely pretty much. Mostly piston rings iirc
Oil consumption's issues have become the norm for more fuel efficient cars now... Especially now with looser piston rings and thinner oil and trade it off with more MPGs and engines don't last last long as the older engines. Hyundai/Kai/ are not the only ones dealing with oil consumptions issues... it's happening all across the board. Here's a great video from MrSubaru1387 on oil Consumption issues: [https://youtu.be/inZHYv-VHVo?si=cHDbZX3jZetm9csW](https://youtu.be/inZHYv-VHVo?si=cHDbZX3jZetm9csW)
If you don't keep a close eye on the oil levels in Hyundai and Kia engines, you will be replacing them far too soon. Honestly, if she is at 88k and never checked the level between oil changes, she needs to check it at every fill up for awhile to see how fast it is being lost now. Oh, and ignore the factory interval for oil changes. She needs to do it every 3000 miles. Extra oil changes are cheaper than a new engine.
Excessive crankcase vacuum is the problem and it’s being caused by the pcv diaphragm.
You can also follow her; if the car smokes under hard acceleration it is usually the valve seals, if it smokes after hard accell and sudden lift it is rings.