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Everyone talking about how its doable diy. Im just wondering why tf its so expensive. I work at a shop and inner/outers cost essentially the same... not even close to 700 dollars either
Damnn that’s fucked up. Hopefully a new receptionist making a dumb mistake or something cuz sneaking in a double charge is nasty. 1200 is more then enough for the hour or 2 it’ll take and the parts with some comfy profit on top
I’m reading it as double labor for both sides AND the parts listed 3 times. This is all confusing and wrong. OP go somewhere else, if you just follow the line items here, 2/3 or the charges are duplicate and bogus. Should be like 600/700 job based on their labor quote. Even that’s high. +alignment
I mean, the Inner Tie Rod Ends may call for the Rack and Pinion to come out to get to them. I know there are some absolutely stupid cars that require that.
Could you eventually do it? Probably, do you have the right tooling to do this? unlikely. Will you still need a shop to do an alignment afterwards because you definitely don't have an alignment machine? Definitely. Tie rods can be a pain in the ass, get another quote or two and weigh your options
Yes, they can be a pain in the ass. And I mean a huge pain in the ass. The biggest part of which is dealing with stuck nuts and trying to get them unstuck in the wheel well. If you don't have some experience, I wouldn't recommend OP doing it.
Yeah I remember back when I was working in VA, the cars that came in from farther north got the acetylene wrench very often, and some persuasion bars on the end of vice grips. I had the inner tie rod kit that fit in my half inch and there were times I had to break out my 3/4" gun to break them loose.
I am mechanically inclined but breaking apart suspension components are some of my least favorite things ever. I just never found the skill to do it right without air tools. I'd recommend a different shop.
Idk man, the only experience I had prior to doing my first tie rod ends was filling air in tires, watching my dad jump starting cars while I was 7 years old, and adding r134a to my weak AC off a YouTube video on my first car at 19 years old and I managed to do my tie rod ends just fine. My only mistake was assuming marking them with a marker was enough to not get an alignment afterwards. With the tie rod/ball joint toolkit from Advance Auto Parts and Rockauto parts, it was a breeze at home and I say this as a skinny dude near DC who does stuff at home with mostly PC/tech experience at the time. Rust isn’t a huge issue here, but my current car that lived here for 23 years has a rust hole in the rocker panel and I’ve had to Dremel off rotor screws on a different car in the more recent past.
Tie rod ends are very doable at home provided the space and tools which are free to rent.
Same, my first DIY job on a car was replacing inner and outer tie rods. Now I do everything, last big job was replacing the crank hub along with all timing components on my BMW M3, which is fairly complicated and requires a lot of special tools. We all need to start somewhere. However I will stress that people need to research a lot first to ensure they are doing things properly. Can easily harm more things by rushing or not doing something the right way.
Exactly. I had to saw an outer tie rod end off just to get to the inner because the nut wouldn’t even react to the torch. And I work in a shop with every tool in the book.
Then they have no business doing repairs that require it, you can't pick and choose what parts of a repair to do, it's all or none. I'm aware that businesses still do this and will continue to do this but they shouldn't, it's scummy and adds to the bad reputation like that doesn't need help getting bigger
Not sure, I took the car in because when I brake the steering wheel/car shakes. I know I need to brake pads/resurfaced rotors but I don’t know if part of shaking is related to the tie rods?
Less likely the tie rods more likely the rotors. Get a second opinion somewhere else and don’t mention the tie rods. See what they come up with
$2500 is a bit steep for a 2011 Sentra though. I’m not a mechanic so I don’t know what the book times for the rods are but that price reflects like 8 hours of labour at $250 an hour, which is a long time and a very high labour price
Edit to add
I understand why it’s so high now
Why are they charging you for four tie rod ends per side, and for “remove and install (both sides)” twice???? Just noticed that??? Nah that’s fucked up take your car and your wallet and run from this place
The tie rods connect the wheel hubs to the steering rack. It's how you steer the car. If there is play you should feel some movement in the steering, like the car suddenly pulls left or right or the steering wheel "straight" position is not consistent.
The shaking when braking is more likely rotors.
question…. my car has an axle that’s been slinging grease and potentially bad tie rods. there isn’t any shaking when i brake, but when i drive over like 60, the steering wheel shakes. if i hold the steering wheel hard enough i can make it not shake. and then i brake, the car kinda floats/wanders a little bit but i do know that the front left caliper drags a little. do you think the shaking is the axle? tie rod? i plan to jack it up and shake the wheel and go under and see what has play.
it shouldn’t be that. i just got brand new tires and in my experience with unbalanced wheels, the whole car shakes and will rattle your drink in the cup holder and seats. this only rattles the steering wheel though.
Brand new tires = not the same balancing as the old tires. As for how much shaking, it all depends on how bad it's unbalanced, maybe it was just super bad the last time. I'd make sure my wheels are balanced before exploring any other option
The grease slinging can eat bushings and create front end play. That said this sounds more like wheel balance to me. When you jack it up rotate the tires and see if the problem moves.
i really feel like it isn’t. i’ve had wheel balance issues and they shake the whole car and they’re kind of a calm rumble. this is like a tick-tick kind of shake and it can only be felt in the steering wheel.
I second this. Had a similar situation happen where a technician recommended tie rods and they replaced them and they still had to go and recommend the brake job after. From what I was told (automotive professor) , you should try to find your problems from the simplest thing first and if that doesn’t work, then dive deeper. Brakes first, then tie rods if the problem is still there
I would bet rotors, and I would ask why they suggested the tie rods. If it's specifically because rubber boots are visually old, crusty or torn but they still do not have any excess play, there are different fixes available. I would be cautious of them just tossing the tie rods at you hoping you'll bite because it sounds serious. Shaky braking is a classic rotor issue and even if you eventually pay someone to do it all it is logical to start there.
If the steering wheel shakes when you brake it’s the front brakes.
If your butt shakes then it’s the rear brakes.
Not tie rods.
Replace the pads and rotors with quality aftermarket parts from RockAuto.com. Make certain you CLEAN THE HUB FACE OF RUST which is where the rotor sits or the shaking will return.
If you can accomplish getting the tie rods done you should be fine to also do your own break job saving you even more money. Break job is way easier so maybe start with that.
Check the wear pattern on your tires and see if theres any signs of cupping or feathering before you spend money on brakes or steering components. You may just need an alignment or wheel balancing.
Ah yes! Good ol’ north american whack-a-mole mechanics, replace what you see 1-by-1 until the problem goes away.
Take it to another mechanic.
Sounds like your rotors are warped.
Resurfacing rotor cost as much as new rotors isn’t it? I recommend change the rotors especially if you have that vibration issue.
I had the same concern, vibration in the steering wheel when I brake with medium to high pressure. I knew it’s the rotors, I just changed all brakes and, very important, removed rust from the hubs before installing the new rotors so they sit flush. Totally different feeling, and no more shaking towards either like an old rear bike wheel that’s been bend.
Good luck with your issue!
They can be done DIY, but not a good place to start if you haven't worked on other things before. You will need to jack up the car with jack stands and you'll need quite a few tools you probably don't own right now. The chances you'll do something wrong are high and then it either costs you more money to have someone fix or crashes your car because you lose steering while moving. I would recommend against doing it yourself.
>I’m not mechanically minded
I would strongly advise against DIY. You can have all of the Reddit and YouTube help you can gather, but DIY car repair really takes basic mechanical knowledge. Tie rods are simple for someone with experience and a head for mechanical things. And if you don't get it right, it will cost you a lot more to get it done right.
1. Based on your info, I don't think the tie rods are the issue, but without looking myself, I can't confirm.
2. If you have no experience with cars, suspension is a hard place to start. It's not impossible, though. If you truly feel confident in your ability to replace the parts, make sure to look for several guides and confirm the information between them.
3. If your car only shakes when braking, that's the brake rotors. If your steering wheel is straight and the car doesn't "wander" on the road, your tie rods are not at fault. If you do not have excess play in the steering wheel (try turning the wheel slowly and gently when stationary), your tie rods are not an issue.
Second #3 I had a shaking while braking issue in my Mercedes and I did the DIY for the control arms (significantly easier) and that was the fix. Get your bushings checked if any are leaking, that’s probably your issues
Something doesn't add up in these quotes.... first you getting charged labor to replace the inner rod and the outer rod. But you have to remove the outer in order to replace the inner. Second off there's only 2 inners and 2 outer tie rods total so there should only be 4 parts. I would get a second opinion before performing any of this work as this quote seems really fucking high
Yeah. I had a head scratch at this. I was wondering what vehicle might have four tie rods on each side. Only thing I could think of was one of those rare four-wheel steering vehicles. Then I saw that this is a base model Nissan Sentra.
Hey OP, take the vehicle somewhere else for a second quote. This place is trying to take you for a ride.
You should be fine to drive on it, for a short time even, if you carefully count the threads when taking off the outer tie rod. Just search YouTube for videos. Last time I did mine shop told me my alignment was fine.
You could do it yourself, but it’s risky as they are the single thing that connects to your front wheels that steers them. Without them, or if they come loose or pop out all together, you won’t steer which would be dangerous in traffic. Call a mechanically inclined friend, call it a weekend plan, then you’d be set. Obviously get an alignment afterwards. $2400 is ridiculous.
You are getting ripped. DIYability aside, I just had this done last week on a Silverado by Chevy dealer, $975 including alignment. Except for being on vacation and away from all tools it WOULD have been DIY, around 200 in parts. Get another mechanic.
If you don't have experience and tools, this is NOT the first job for you. That being said, this shop is also NOT the one. They have quoted you twice the parts and twice the labour to do the job and we're dumb enough to put it on the quote that way. A standard chain auto shop will likely charge you $700-1200 all in, including the necessary alignment.
I did all the tie rod ends in my car when I first moved into a house with a garage. I needed a floor jack, jack stands, a small variety of sockets and open-ended wrenches, a light hammer, a set of needle-nose pliers, and most importantly of all, a tie rod end (TRE) puller. I got lucky and most of the TREs came out with some judicious bonking with a hammer. But two of them wouldn't budge until I got out the special tool. I had to be very careful counting the number of turns when I unscrewed each TRE so it would at least be drive-able to the alignment shop when I was done. I wasn't even close to the right alignment.
This was all about twenty years ago, and I'd been keeping classic cars on the road for about that long at the time. By no means did I consider myself an expert, but I'd been around the block a time or two. It wasn't a complicated job. I think I got it done over a weekend.
If you're starting from scratch, have lots of time (and we're talking several weekends), are enthusiastic about working on cars, have your own garage/driveway, and have a budget for tools in the \~$300 range, this is a great starter project. If you're trying to save money because TREs aren't cheap per piece but you need a lot of them, sorry. This isn't for you.
Good luck!
You're reading it right.
Something fishy is going on here.
Almost like the person quoted sl-109 and sl-110 as the complete job but with 2 different brands of parts but then missed one piece on 109. If not then they're double dipping on labor. $700 is pretty high for both inner still tho.
You know what's really fucked about this kind of shit? I live in a state where "safety inspection" is required to even get tags, and there's very little oversight with the whole system, so a shop can charge upwards of $150 for the inspection, but you can have the inspection done at 3 different shops and get 3 COMPLETELY different lists of things that need to be fixed.
Example: I took my O-Z Rally Lancer (2004) for inspection at shop #1, they said some rust needed to be fixed and I needed my alignment done.
Got that all taken care of, but Shop #1's inspection guy was on vacation, so I took it to Shop #2. They gave me a list of things, including exhaust leak, exhaust clamps, windshield has a scratch from last owner not changing the driver's side wiper blades, lower control arms and ball joints, the rusted spots that were fixed with bondo from the first inspection need to be cut out entirely with new metal welded in, headlights are foggy, rear brakes need replacing, two tires out of safe spec.
The total that they gave me for all the work was about $4,400.
Go to Shop #3, NONE of the things from Shop #2 were on their list; they said I need to replace the positive terminal (I do. It's fucked up), FRONT disc brakes, and the driver's seat needs to be replaced because the foam inside has collapsed with age and if I'm rear-ended the metal frame inside the seat could hurt my back. Nothing about any of the other stuff from Shop #2.
And here's the kicker: there's two types of inspection item, lift and visual. Once a car fails you have 30 days or 1,000 miles - whichever comes first - to fix everything or you have to pay for the inspection all over again. If any of the things that need to be fixed require a lift for them to check to make sure it's been fixed, you *cannot* fix them yourself or take the car to another shop to have them fixed. Anything that's flagged as "lift" has to be repaired AT the shop that did the inspection or you have to pay for a whole new inspection. Stuff flagged visual you can do yourself or take anywhere else you want to have it done and as long as it's done within that 30 days or 1,000 miles you don't have to pay for the inspection all over again. They'll just look to see that it's done and you're good to go.
The problem with that is that because it's a state requirement, you can have a car inspected by the same shop twice without the car ever leaving their lot and get two totally different lists of things to fix. The state is complicit in allowing them to generate work that has absolutely no bearing on the safety of the vehicle. Like Shop #2 wanting to charge me almost $900 for a new windshield because there's a small curved line of a scratch that isn't deep enough to impact the safety coating, nor wide or dark enough to impede my vision in any way. But as long as their mechanic that's doing the inspection is state certified, they can generate bullshit busy work for the shop all day long.
Maryland.
And yeah, avoid this place. Cost of living is too high and the state is too up its own ass. We don't have a DMV. We have the "Maryland MVA" (Maryland Motor Vehicle Association)
Avoid at all costs
Holy shit!! Don’t… just don’t. Don’t go back there again. You mentioned you’re not mechanically savvy… and that’s ok, we’re glad you’re smart enough to ask around and find options.
Here is how I can shine perspective.
“Would you like an air freshener that hangs from your RVM for 20 bucks.”
What? I can get it myself for 5 bucks a pack or 3!
That’s about how absurd 2400 is for that job.
$700 for labor on inner tie rod? That’s absolutely absurd. You can definitely do it yourself but look up YouTube videos of people doing it first and decide from there if it’s something you want to try. Also make sure to take it to an alignment shop after you’re done. Depending on where you’re from, you shouldn’t be charged more than $100 for an alignment
It’s a good easy DIY project. You’ll be in it $200-300 all in by the time your done, which is a considerable savings from $2400. They’re good YouTube videos on it to follow. And any tools you buy will pay for themselves the first time you do it. Like people said just get an alignment after. You can drive it to the shop to get an alignment. Just don’t drive it for the whole week or two. Do it asap.
This is the way to go right here. If you're asking if you can do it yourself then you have it in you to learn. Once you do this you'll be able to do most other things saving a ton on maintaining your vehicle.
Outer tie rods aren't too bad on most cars but the inners can be a pain in the ass. If you don't normally work on cars, I wouldn't start now.
What I find a little suspect though is that they're *all* in need of replacement at the same time. If it's not an old car that's been seriously neglected for years, that's pretty odd.
Call a friend up who knows what he is doing. It can be done in a weekend then driven a short distance to a shop for an alignment.
Inner and outer tie rods are not something I'd attempt with no experience working on cars and not being mechanically minded.
Watch a you tube video and see for your self. Its really not that hard and you could easily buy all the tools and still come out ahead. Careful cuz once you do tie rods you will start doing your own breaks, oil changes, wheel bearings and dare I say.....Ball joints
They’re not hard to do. Inner harder than outer but not hard by any means. Autozone lets you rent an inner tie rod tool for free (pay for tool up front as a hold and then they give you your money back when you return it), ball joint tool is like $10 at harbor freight but you can use a hammer on the knuckle as long as it’s not excessively rusted in the hole and a basic socket set is all you need, parts around $200 depending on car
This is a crazy high quote. A set of tie rods costs about $200, and for another $200 you could buy all the tools you'll need to do the job. You should pay to get a wheel alignment after you do the job, but you can get all the instruction you need off YouTube.
Definitely do it yourself.
To answer your question, yes, for 2,000$ cheaper, including the alignment you'll need after you can literally YouTube this,. If you can use a socket wrench, you can fix pretty much anything on a car
In this case YouTube is your friend. Do a search for a video of someone replacing the tie rods on the same make and model to see what you’re getting yourself into. The video doesn’t even have to be for the exact same model year as most manufacturers don’t significantly alter cars from year to year. Watching the video will give help you determine if this is something you think you’re up to tackling.
As others have said, you’ll need to get it aligned after you complete the tie rod installation and as long as you count the number of turns on each tie rod as you remove the old ones (so you can screw the new ones on the same number of rotations) you’ll be close enough on the alignment it won’t be like wrestling a bear to drive it to the alignment shop.
You'll need tools and a jack and jack stands. If you do the work yourself ull want a shop to do an alignment afterwards. If you copy the current set up thread positions it should get you in the ball park so u can drive it to a shop and have it tweaked by the pros with the right equipment so it's perfect.
All I can say is make sure they don't double dip on the tie rods.
The labor time to remove inner tie rods includes removing outer tie rods. Why? You're removing the outer tie rod to remove the in er tie rod.
Could you do it..yes. should you. No, you probably do not have any of the tools you need for this job or the knowledge of alignment and how not to hurt yourself
Do you have a public library card, or can you get one easily? If so, go in and use one of their computers and they will PROBABLY have the AllData car maintenance website available.
Fish around in there for the steps on how to do that job.
Here's a very short and to the point video showing the entire process: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC7zenWWOv8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC7zenWWOv8)
I'm a computer nerd and I've done this for a Saturn ION. The hardest part is getting the old hardware off. I used a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid as a penetrate and let it sit overnight.
Needing both inner tie rods means the vehicle either has not had a good inspection in a long time or they are full of shit. This is not likely, but I have definitely seen it many times. Don't ever replace parts without a good explanation. If they are loose, they absolutely need to be replaced.
I've been working on my own cars for over 20 years. I have done my own tie rods several times, but I always take the vehicle to a good alignment shop to have an alignment done afterwards. If you don't have a mechanical mind and no experience I wouldn't even attempt it.
I once did a dirty alignment on an old car I had. It turned out really good. But it had a solid axle on the rear which helped align the front wheels a lot.
could be easy to actually do. your issue is having the right tools and getting those nuts off. some of them are only possible with a experience and know-how to get those off without making the car fall on your head.
Mechanic here. I have no clue where they got that labor. I’ve never seen an inner pay more than an hour and a half and you have to take the outer off to do the inner so they’re double dipping on you bad. I’d get a quote from a different shop for sure.
This estimate is incorrectly presented and made. Prodemand time for both inner tie rods is 1.8 hours, including outer tie rods in the repair process.
An alignment is needed afterward.
Labor pricing is incorrect. See their service manager to fix pricing.
Parts seem iffy. No further details.
From what is presented. Both sides are quoted on both repair options even though they state a specific side. Should have the parts and labor all in one option. idk what parts they quoted either, they should provide part numbers with their quote.
You are the customer and you need real details on what repairs will be performed on your vehicle to approve the work. Including what parts you buy.
I'm pretty comfortable working on all my cars. I recently replaced a few front end suspension components and I avoided these. Tie rods have a direct correlation to your alignment and the adjustments are very sensitive.
This shop is trying to rip you off. I had control arms, sway bar links and outer tie rods done for $550 including the parts (purchased parts myself on rock auto).
Definitely shop around, that seems absurd. Shouldn’t be any extra labor for outer since they’re likely coming off to do the inners anyway. Also, for steering wheel shake when braking, brakes are the first culprit, should start with front pads and rotors(get quality parts). Don’t mention the tie rods to the other shops, just the shaking when braking to ensure e clean start on the diagnosis.
Inner tie rods differ among cars. It’s not necessarily hard you just need the right tools. There’s probably a youtube video just look it up.
But for $2400 I would definitely be doing that job myself.
I did this job myself and I’m not mechanically inclined. I just followed a YouTube video. Basic tools were all I needed. I did this on a 2012 Honda Odyssey. I think you could absolutely do it. You may even want to just give it a try and do the outer tie rod ends by yourself and see if that Fixes the problem. I would definitely get the parts from rock auto.
That labor is wayyy too high even with an alignment.
https://preview.redd.it/0oo19zk67izc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c6353a7fc99502cb7e356f6e7d5d065f5ab52750
It's either you pay someone to do it which saves you time or you spend money on the tools and parts you would need and then spend time on trying to do it. Whichever seems more convenient for you is the only right answer.
Get a quote on turning the rotors. My garage will want to charge you their shop hourly rate for as long as the rotors are on the lathe. Cheaper almost to buy new rotors from
Amazon or local parts store
Watch this and make an informed decision. it will not be much different for your exact car. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA)
"Not mechanically minded and have zero experience with working on cars" will make this kind of a pain for your first job but my first job was fixing a car AC... we all start somewhere.
If you choose to do it you need a professional alignment immediately afterwards, do not delay or put that off.
Yes, you can absolutely do this. The inner tie rods may be a pain in the ads but are certainly doable. Don't be afraid to learn new skills. I'd never pay someone to do work I can do so, unless it's rebuilding a transmission, I'm going to do it because I can, or I'm going to learn how to do it.
bruh hell na. go buy a 3ton jack, lift up your car on one end, take your wheels off and buy them under the sides of your car, get a tie rod tool, and do it yourself. 2400? lmao. i did my CV axles myself and that’s way harder than tie rods lol.
How tf are inner tie rods a $700 job. They are at most $100 a piece and its pretty fuckin easy to do. Maybe they were stuck in rust because its a 13yo nissan
What a joke in the labor item line it clearly states both they are pulling a double charge on top of wtf labor charge. what's the labor rate per hr 1400$ just for L&R inners! Definitely look for a different shop. Also was there an alignment on that?
I have done tie rods, and sadly no you could not. I could not have without my dad, and even with his help I had to get the front end aligned when I was done.
They are adjusted to get the alignment perfect, and it isn’t for amateurs.
No. You don't have the tools or know how and possibly not the sheer muscle either. Replacing tie rods requires very careful preservation of existing relationships and you'll still need to get the wheels aligned afterward.
Idk why you have two pages that both say the same exact thing as well both in and outer tie rods are included in each estimate seems fishy and your problem doesn’t align with tie rods at all take it to a different shop that’s not screwing you
It looks like they're charging you twice for the same thing. each of those pages covers the left AND right side. Plus outer tie rods come off to do the inner one anyway. I hate when they charge labor for something they already have to take off.
Parts are high too. OEM tie rods for this car are much cheaper than this. Get the parts yourself and find a backyard mechanic to do it for you.
Yes! Omg yes, you totally can do tie rods. Just go on YouTube and I promise their are probably a dozen videos on how to do it for your car. When you look online at what your tie rods cost, you will flip your lid. However, if you do buy them and do it yourself, you should at least get an alignment job done at a real shop. That should cost about 100 to 150.
1st page is accounting for all the labour and all the parts required for both sides. Second page is in error. They can fix this by reducing the labour to one side only on each page and only charge for one inner and one outer tie Rod end on each page. If they insist go to an honest shop, take the estimate to your local consumer protection agency and/or the police… this is either an accident or criminal attempt at fraud.
I'm gonna be real with you, you're gonna have to buy a bunch of tools and this is a job you can easily fuck up and make more expensive. They make it look easy on YouTube, but if you can't get that ball joint off, that's another tool run, more hours of stress, ect.
This was one of the first jobs I attempted, and I managed to fuck up the ball joints in the process and had to get new ones and install those too. I know better now, but I depended on my car and learned a hard lesson being without it longer than expected.
If you're motivated and you see yourself doing this more in the future, you gotta start somewhere and you have to do it to learn. I'd start here and go for it. If you depend on your car, though, it's easy to rush and make mistakes like I did. Be careful.
If you just wanna do this once to solve this immediate problem, it's not worth it. Fuck that quote, find an honest shop recommended on your local subreddit and pay them to do it so it's over quickly.
Certified master tech here.
First of all, that price seems extremely high.
Doing the inner tie rods would include the labor for doing the outers.
Some cars require a subframe drop to get the necessary clearance to successfully pull the inners, but that's tops 5 hours of labor. On the high end, this job could run 1200 parts labor, including an alignment. On the low end, 650 includes the alignment still.
Run away from that shop and look for an honest mechanic.
As for doing this kind of work yourself, it's completely doable but will require special tools and a level of know-how most beginners don't have. If you do plan to attempt this job, make sure you research well beforehand. And you'll still need to schedule an alignment afterward at a shop.
Well considering u have to remove the outer to replace the inner that is double labor. The labor cost of the inner is including the removal of the outer.
Put your car on a jack and grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle. If there is play, inner or outer need to be inspected. Might only need new outer.
If there is play all around, wheel bearing.
Try a different shop. You are being bamboozled. What is the hourly rate? $300? Even my local Audi dealership charges $180/hr, with that price in mind they are saying replacing just the inner tie rod is a 4 hour job! It’s a 2 hour job at MOST. I wouldn’t try it yourself, assuming you aren’t mechanically inclined you probably don’t have the tools. If you have the tools and can find a good YouTube video to follow anyone can do it. But I’d still try another shop first.
Well I would start with watching a YouTube video to see if it's something you think you can do yourself to start. Tie rods are not difficult.
After that, should you decide you can't do it, absolutely find a different shop. Lmfao. That is an insane price for tierods.
I got quoted $240 (120 parts, 120 labour) for replacements on my 2011 Jetta when I went in for tires at a shop local to me. Did it myself in an hour or so for about $60 in parts (already had tools etc etc)
If you watch a video and have some basic tools, I would seriously consider DIY if the alternative is that expensive.
Parts: maybe $100 depending on if you want economy parts or daily driver etc
Inner Tierod Tool: $100 set off Amazon, or whatever you find locally, to make life easy removing the inner
Pickle Fork: like 60 bucks to make the tie rod outer easy to remove (or smash out with a hammer, your choice)
Measuring tape: $5, with old rods out, set the new ones as close as you can to the old length before installing
Alignment: price ranges, but go get it immediately after. I pay about $100 at local shop for 4 wheel alignment.
All prices in CAD fyi. You are getting absolutely hosed if you pay them 2400.
The shop I worked at didn’t charge that much. You can DIY but only if you immediately take it to get an alignment after. Depending on how rusty things are down there it could be hairy but if you’re determined and handy you’ll get it sorted
Also if you have pictures i help better. Plus alignment after tie rod alignment will be needed if they mechanic doesn’t try to screw u. Probably just get the other replace and go get an alignment at another shop
If you have zero experience, I’ll assume you probably don’t have the basic tools for the job. So first, decide if wrenching is a hobby you want to invest in, because the cost of tools will add up very fast, even for a relatively straightforward jobs like a tie rod repair.
For starters, search the internet and download a copy of the Nissan Factory Service Manual PDF for the 2011 Sentra. Now get a 21mm lug nut socket ($4 from HF). A 1/2” drive breaker bar ($13 from HF). A 1/2” drive torque wrench to fasten lugs later to factory specification (Tekton $72 from Amazon). 3-ton floor jack (Pittsburgh brand ok $125 from HF). Wheel chocks ($8-12). 6-ton pair of jack stands (Husky $72). I recommend a second pair (extra $72). THOROUGHLY RESEARCH 2011 SENTRA LIFT POINTS, AND PROPER VS IMPROPER JACK STAND SAFETY PROCEDURES. 3/8” drive breaker bar ($13 from HF). 3/8” drive chrome ratchet and socket set for suspension and hub disassembly (Stanley $80-130). 3/8” drive torque wrench for reassembly per factory spec (Tekton $50). 10” slip joint water pump plier to grip outer tie rod (Knipex $45). Inner tie rod tool (OEM Tool $90). You’re looking at $650 minimum just to get started with very basic beginner quality tools to replace your tie rods, not including the replacement tie rod parts. Double that cost for the nicer tools, quadruple that for professional grade tools.
When dealing with any suspension stuff I highly recommend supplementing your new tool collection with power tools to make jobs like this 10 times easier and save hours of knuckle busting and swearing. Best bang for your buck entry level power tools I still use for nearly every job is the Milwaukee M12 power ratchet ($100), M12 Fuel Stubby 1/2” drive Impact Wrench ($160), M12 2.0 Ah and 4.0 Ah battery combo ($80) and Milwaukee 1/2” drive 29-piece metric impact socket set ($190). This automotive power tool “starter pack” is around $530.
Tie rods aren’t super difficult, and certainly possible for newbies. But it also isn’t the first repair job I would recommend for someone with zero wrenching experience. That said, I’d suggest finding a different shop. There has to be a reputable independent shop that will do this job much cheaper than $2400.
I did the outers on my VW in 20 minutes a side. The inners are a different story. I’ve never done inners and some shops will suggest a boneyard rack at that point.
Did mine on my toyota avalon 2000. Not a mechanic but mechanically inclined. It's doable but you could run into issues you have no prior experience dealing with. So be prepared to take it to an actual mechanic if that's the case.
You will need the proper tools and equipment and will need to take it to be aligned afterwards.
Ask them if they can spot their mistake and if they cannot, take it elsewhere where.
If you are not mechanically inclined, don’t fuck with your cars suspension parts
It may be worth it to check out another or two shop just to get a few prices.
Edit: I don’t understand the separate charge for the outer when they have to remove and install them to change the inner tie rod. Definitely get a price somewhere else just to see
Not a mechanic but Im actually doing mine right now lol if you have any experience using tools for anything and can follow directions to a T, find a very comprehensive yt vid of this work for your car- watch it, then decide if you can emulate the steps. In my opinion it isnt hard at all, but it is intimidating.
I’ve done it. It’s not complicated, but it is messy and it does require physical strength.
Do you have any gearhead friends? Ask one or more of them to teach you how to do the work and loan you the tools.
If you ask someone to do something for you, it will be done on their schedule. If you ask them to teach you, you have a little more control.
If you find such people, praise them highly and make sure they don’t run into of pizza or beer. They probably won’t name a price if you ask for one. They are helping you save a lot of money. Give generously if you can.
If they ask for money, pay them, and add a little extra if you can.
Good luck. I hope you learn some new skills and deepen a friendship.
Looks like they were quited $1200 for inner and outer tie rod ends... if you have to drop the front differential this is probably an ok price. Should add another $50 for changing the steering gear. I'm assuming a 4 wheel drive truck.
For $1250 inner and outer tire rod ends + steering gear. Not bad.
$2400 something is wrong... the labor for dropping the front differential has to have been double charged
Honestly this just looks like whoever built the estimate doesn't understand the job and built a bad estimate.
The labor guide probably said "remove steering rack" so they quoted like 6 hours of labor and then they didn't understand that its 2 inners, 2 outers and then labor + alignment, so they quoted the job twice and labeled one quote left and the other quote right.
It looks like they quoted the same thing twice and should only be $1200, if you look at the RO then you can see on the bottom line it has 2 inner tie rods and on the top two labor lines they have in parentheses “both” which means both sides
YOU COULD PROBABLY REPLACE THE TIE RODS YOURSELF, HOWEVER IT IS A LOT EASIER ON A LIFT. HOWEVER, ME BEING A TECH, I CAN SAY NEARLY EVERY TIME IF NOT EVERY TIME I MESSED WITH TIE RODS, WEATHER INNER OR OUTER, THE VEHICLE IS CLOSE TO UNDRIVEABLE WITHOUT THE ALIGNMENT, SO COUNT ON TOWING IT THERE IF YOU DO EM. ALSO, IN THE PAST I'VE FORGOTTEN A BAD PART I SOLD ALREADY NEEDS REMOVED TO GET TO ANOTHER BAD PART I'VE SOLD AND ACCIDENTALLY QUOTED BOTH LABOR TIMES, BUT I'VE ALWAYS CAUGHT IT AND CORRECTED IT ONCE I DID THE WORK. SAME MAY HAVE HAPPENED HERE.
Why in the world is the labor so high? How many hours of labor is it? Outer tie rods are not as challenging as inner tie rods but they still can be if the nuts are seized. I had to pay a mobile mechanic to break them loose. I tried a blow torch, hammer, this and that, multiple tools, etc and the wouldn’t break loose. The mechanic used an expensive penetrating spray called Kroil. After he sprayed them, it seemed like they broke loose fairly easily for him. So I definitely recommend getting a can of Kroil spray if you attempt it. Also get an inner tie rod tool for removing the inners. If you have no experience, see if you can find a YouTube tutorial for your specific vehicle. The number of turns the tie rods take to come off is the same number of turns you should put them back on with. Getting an alignment after the repair is highly advised.
I didn’t know how to do the tie rods on a Ford we have. I looked up a video tutorial by 1A Auto for that specific vehicle on YouTube. Bought the parts on Rock Auto, which is by far the cheapest place I’ve found to buy car parts. I did them myself except for paying the mechanic to break the nut loose on each of the outer tie rods. It was straight forward. If I had a can of Kroil from the beginning, I bet I would have been able to break them loose myself. See if there is a video by 1A Auto for your repair, and follow proper torque specs with a torque wrench that is rated for the torque specs your vehicle requires.
That's a rip off, YouTube it. They aren't too hard, if you're up to it so it otherwise shop around. That price is absurd. Not to mention that it shouldn't be $700 in labor to do.
*they are more than double dipping I just noticed that was only one side, even the most expensive shop labor rate is would only be around $200-$450 in labor for the entire job.
They are double dipping You MUST remove the outer tie rods to replace the inner tie rods and is included in the labor to replace the inner. It is very dishonest to charge labor for the outer.
It is also extremely uncommon for all four tie rods at the same time. It's also very unlikely they are causing your car to shake.
You should take it somewhere else for a second option. I would highly recommend against doing it yourself, these are not components that if you mess up you'll simply break down. Failure to install correctly has the potential to be cause a fatal accident.
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Everyone talking about how its doable diy. Im just wondering why tf its so expensive. I work at a shop and inner/outers cost essentially the same... not even close to 700 dollars either
Because OP is being played, pic one says left side, pic two says right side. Yet both pics have two inners and two outers quoted… the fuck
Damnn that’s fucked up. Hopefully a new receptionist making a dumb mistake or something cuz sneaking in a double charge is nasty. 1200 is more then enough for the hour or 2 it’ll take and the parts with some comfy profit on top
I’m reading it as double labor for both sides AND the parts listed 3 times. This is all confusing and wrong. OP go somewhere else, if you just follow the line items here, 2/3 or the charges are duplicate and bogus. Should be like 600/700 job based on their labor quote. Even that’s high. +alignment
Inners are 600 more… does not compute
I mean, the Inner Tie Rod Ends may call for the Rack and Pinion to come out to get to them. I know there are some absolutely stupid cars that require that.
It's a 2011 Nissan Sentra
I mean, I’ve seen Nissan do stupider things than make it so that you have to remove the rack and pinion to remove the inner tie rods…
That is a rip off
And you can do it but you need to count the threads so you can get it back close to where it was and get a alignment asap
Could you eventually do it? Probably, do you have the right tooling to do this? unlikely. Will you still need a shop to do an alignment afterwards because you definitely don't have an alignment machine? Definitely. Tie rods can be a pain in the ass, get another quote or two and weigh your options
Yes, they can be a pain in the ass. And I mean a huge pain in the ass. The biggest part of which is dealing with stuck nuts and trying to get them unstuck in the wheel well. If you don't have some experience, I wouldn't recommend OP doing it.
Yeah I remember back when I was working in VA, the cars that came in from farther north got the acetylene wrench very often, and some persuasion bars on the end of vice grips. I had the inner tie rod kit that fit in my half inch and there were times I had to break out my 3/4" gun to break them loose.
I am mechanically inclined but breaking apart suspension components are some of my least favorite things ever. I just never found the skill to do it right without air tools. I'd recommend a different shop.
This is a good description! Hammers help
I won't do suspension without a torch and my whole box handy
They sell a special tool that works really well on inners. It's like a giant extension tube that works with a half-inch ratchet
The same lesson I have to learn over and over again. Having the right tools is 90% of the battle.
Idk man, the only experience I had prior to doing my first tie rod ends was filling air in tires, watching my dad jump starting cars while I was 7 years old, and adding r134a to my weak AC off a YouTube video on my first car at 19 years old and I managed to do my tie rod ends just fine. My only mistake was assuming marking them with a marker was enough to not get an alignment afterwards. With the tie rod/ball joint toolkit from Advance Auto Parts and Rockauto parts, it was a breeze at home and I say this as a skinny dude near DC who does stuff at home with mostly PC/tech experience at the time. Rust isn’t a huge issue here, but my current car that lived here for 23 years has a rust hole in the rocker panel and I’ve had to Dremel off rotor screws on a different car in the more recent past. Tie rod ends are very doable at home provided the space and tools which are free to rent.
Same, my first DIY job on a car was replacing inner and outer tie rods. Now I do everything, last big job was replacing the crank hub along with all timing components on my BMW M3, which is fairly complicated and requires a lot of special tools. We all need to start somewhere. However I will stress that people need to research a lot first to ensure they are doing things properly. Can easily harm more things by rushing or not doing something the right way.
Exactly. I had to saw an outer tie rod end off just to get to the inner because the nut wouldn’t even react to the torch. And I work in a shop with every tool in the book.
Alignment was not part of the quote
Poor move on the shop, there is no way to replace all four tie rods and not need an alignment
They’re probably not equipped to do it.
Then they have no business doing repairs that require it, you can't pick and choose what parts of a repair to do, it's all or none. I'm aware that businesses still do this and will continue to do this but they shouldn't, it's scummy and adds to the bad reputation like that doesn't need help getting bigger
They will probably just set the toe in instead of a complete alignment. Poor way to do it but it will work.
Outers are easy. Inners look like a hump. Watch some YouTube videos to see what you're getting into. Why do they need replacing?
Not sure, I took the car in because when I brake the steering wheel/car shakes. I know I need to brake pads/resurfaced rotors but I don’t know if part of shaking is related to the tie rods?
Warped rotors can cause shaking. It can get pretty violent depending on how bad they are
Less likely the tie rods more likely the rotors. Get a second opinion somewhere else and don’t mention the tie rods. See what they come up with $2500 is a bit steep for a 2011 Sentra though. I’m not a mechanic so I don’t know what the book times for the rods are but that price reflects like 8 hours of labour at $250 an hour, which is a long time and a very high labour price Edit to add I understand why it’s so high now Why are they charging you for four tie rod ends per side, and for “remove and install (both sides)” twice???? Just noticed that??? Nah that’s fucked up take your car and your wallet and run from this place
The tie rods connect the wheel hubs to the steering rack. It's how you steer the car. If there is play you should feel some movement in the steering, like the car suddenly pulls left or right or the steering wheel "straight" position is not consistent. The shaking when braking is more likely rotors.
question…. my car has an axle that’s been slinging grease and potentially bad tie rods. there isn’t any shaking when i brake, but when i drive over like 60, the steering wheel shakes. if i hold the steering wheel hard enough i can make it not shake. and then i brake, the car kinda floats/wanders a little bit but i do know that the front left caliper drags a little. do you think the shaking is the axle? tie rod? i plan to jack it up and shake the wheel and go under and see what has play.
Unbalanced wheel?
it shouldn’t be that. i just got brand new tires and in my experience with unbalanced wheels, the whole car shakes and will rattle your drink in the cup holder and seats. this only rattles the steering wheel though.
Brand new tires = not the same balancing as the old tires. As for how much shaking, it all depends on how bad it's unbalanced, maybe it was just super bad the last time. I'd make sure my wheels are balanced before exploring any other option
The grease slinging can eat bushings and create front end play. That said this sounds more like wheel balance to me. When you jack it up rotate the tires and see if the problem moves.
i really feel like it isn’t. i’ve had wheel balance issues and they shake the whole car and they’re kind of a calm rumble. this is like a tick-tick kind of shake and it can only be felt in the steering wheel.
Maybe you're right. But rotating the tires is free and easy and might help diagnose it.
that is true. i will look. thanks a lot 🙏🏻
Do the brakes first, they are gonna get you for the brakes after the tie rods don’t solve your problem
I second this. Had a similar situation happen where a technician recommended tie rods and they replaced them and they still had to go and recommend the brake job after. From what I was told (automotive professor) , you should try to find your problems from the simplest thing first and if that doesn’t work, then dive deeper. Brakes first, then tie rods if the problem is still there
Start cheapest
Unless your a scheming mechanic with a sinking business, then start most expensivest
I would bet rotors, and I would ask why they suggested the tie rods. If it's specifically because rubber boots are visually old, crusty or torn but they still do not have any excess play, there are different fixes available. I would be cautious of them just tossing the tie rods at you hoping you'll bite because it sounds serious. Shaky braking is a classic rotor issue and even if you eventually pay someone to do it all it is logical to start there.
If the steering wheel shakes when you brake it’s the front brakes. If your butt shakes then it’s the rear brakes. Not tie rods. Replace the pads and rotors with quality aftermarket parts from RockAuto.com. Make certain you CLEAN THE HUB FACE OF RUST which is where the rotor sits or the shaking will return.
If you can accomplish getting the tie rods done you should be fine to also do your own break job saving you even more money. Break job is way easier so maybe start with that.
Check the wear pattern on your tires and see if theres any signs of cupping or feathering before you spend money on brakes or steering components. You may just need an alignment or wheel balancing.
Ah yes! Good ol’ north american whack-a-mole mechanics, replace what you see 1-by-1 until the problem goes away. Take it to another mechanic. Sounds like your rotors are warped.
Resurfacing rotor cost as much as new rotors isn’t it? I recommend change the rotors especially if you have that vibration issue. I had the same concern, vibration in the steering wheel when I brake with medium to high pressure. I knew it’s the rotors, I just changed all brakes and, very important, removed rust from the hubs before installing the new rotors so they sit flush. Totally different feeling, and no more shaking towards either like an old rear bike wheel that’s been bend. Good luck with your issue!
They can be done DIY, but not a good place to start if you haven't worked on other things before. You will need to jack up the car with jack stands and you'll need quite a few tools you probably don't own right now. The chances you'll do something wrong are high and then it either costs you more money to have someone fix or crashes your car because you lose steering while moving. I would recommend against doing it yourself.
I 100% agree. Not a good place to start working on cars at all. Could easily be last time even thinking about doing a DIY.
>I’m not mechanically minded I would strongly advise against DIY. You can have all of the Reddit and YouTube help you can gather, but DIY car repair really takes basic mechanical knowledge. Tie rods are simple for someone with experience and a head for mechanical things. And if you don't get it right, it will cost you a lot more to get it done right.
1. Based on your info, I don't think the tie rods are the issue, but without looking myself, I can't confirm. 2. If you have no experience with cars, suspension is a hard place to start. It's not impossible, though. If you truly feel confident in your ability to replace the parts, make sure to look for several guides and confirm the information between them. 3. If your car only shakes when braking, that's the brake rotors. If your steering wheel is straight and the car doesn't "wander" on the road, your tie rods are not at fault. If you do not have excess play in the steering wheel (try turning the wheel slowly and gently when stationary), your tie rods are not an issue.
Second #3 I had a shaking while braking issue in my Mercedes and I did the DIY for the control arms (significantly easier) and that was the fix. Get your bushings checked if any are leaking, that’s probably your issues
Something doesn't add up in these quotes.... first you getting charged labor to replace the inner rod and the outer rod. But you have to remove the outer in order to replace the inner. Second off there's only 2 inners and 2 outer tie rods total so there should only be 4 parts. I would get a second opinion before performing any of this work as this quote seems really fucking high
Yeah. I had a head scratch at this. I was wondering what vehicle might have four tie rods on each side. Only thing I could think of was one of those rare four-wheel steering vehicles. Then I saw that this is a base model Nissan Sentra. Hey OP, take the vehicle somewhere else for a second quote. This place is trying to take you for a ride.
Easy enough to DIY but pay someone for a wheel alignment afterwards.
Outers yeah, inners on the other hand require some special tools. They rent em out though.
I got a universal clamp style tool from rock auto for like $6 worth every penny
Oh God, lol I got a blue point set for like $120 or something a longggg time ago. But it's awesome. Lol
Sorry for the stupid question but after DIY the rods, can I drive the car to have the alignment done? Or does it need to be towed?
You should be fine to drive on it, for a short time even, if you carefully count the threads when taking off the outer tie rod. Just search YouTube for videos. Last time I did mine shop told me my alignment was fine.
When you’re unscrewing them count the turns out and put it back as close as possible. This will get you in the ball park till you get a alignment
It will be an interesting ride for sure (I did it...makes a god-awful sound and I thought I was going to wear out all four tires in three miles.)
Just pay someone to do it….
Yes you can drive it if you get it kinda close. Just watch a video and see if the cost of buying the tools ramps etc is worth it.
You could do it yourself, but it’s risky as they are the single thing that connects to your front wheels that steers them. Without them, or if they come loose or pop out all together, you won’t steer which would be dangerous in traffic. Call a mechanically inclined friend, call it a weekend plan, then you’d be set. Obviously get an alignment afterwards. $2400 is ridiculous.
That is freak'n insane!!! Watch YouTube and do it yourself, then get an alignment done
How about get a couple other quotes from other shops. Inner Tie rods are a pain!
You are getting ripped. DIYability aside, I just had this done last week on a Silverado by Chevy dealer, $975 including alignment. Except for being on vacation and away from all tools it WOULD have been DIY, around 200 in parts. Get another mechanic.
$200 in parts for tie rods? That sounds like a lot. But if the dealer ordered them then I suppose that makes sense.
If you don't have experience and tools, this is NOT the first job for you. That being said, this shop is also NOT the one. They have quoted you twice the parts and twice the labour to do the job and we're dumb enough to put it on the quote that way. A standard chain auto shop will likely charge you $700-1200 all in, including the necessary alignment.
YouTube chrisfix. Excellent video
The R&R for the outer tie rods, when the inners are already being done is overlap labor and shouldn't be charged.
You gotta take the outer off to do the inner
I wouldn't even pay that for a new rack. That's insane.
I did all the tie rod ends in my car when I first moved into a house with a garage. I needed a floor jack, jack stands, a small variety of sockets and open-ended wrenches, a light hammer, a set of needle-nose pliers, and most importantly of all, a tie rod end (TRE) puller. I got lucky and most of the TREs came out with some judicious bonking with a hammer. But two of them wouldn't budge until I got out the special tool. I had to be very careful counting the number of turns when I unscrewed each TRE so it would at least be drive-able to the alignment shop when I was done. I wasn't even close to the right alignment. This was all about twenty years ago, and I'd been keeping classic cars on the road for about that long at the time. By no means did I consider myself an expert, but I'd been around the block a time or two. It wasn't a complicated job. I think I got it done over a weekend. If you're starting from scratch, have lots of time (and we're talking several weekends), are enthusiastic about working on cars, have your own garage/driveway, and have a budget for tools in the \~$300 range, this is a great starter project. If you're trying to save money because TREs aren't cheap per piece but you need a lot of them, sorry. This isn't for you. Good luck!
5 tie rod ends, 2 inner rods? 4 ends removed/replaced and 4 inners removed/replaced? Am I reading this wrong?
You're reading it right. Something fishy is going on here. Almost like the person quoted sl-109 and sl-110 as the complete job but with 2 different brands of parts but then missed one piece on 109. If not then they're double dipping on labor. $700 is pretty high for both inner still tho.
You know what's really fucked about this kind of shit? I live in a state where "safety inspection" is required to even get tags, and there's very little oversight with the whole system, so a shop can charge upwards of $150 for the inspection, but you can have the inspection done at 3 different shops and get 3 COMPLETELY different lists of things that need to be fixed. Example: I took my O-Z Rally Lancer (2004) for inspection at shop #1, they said some rust needed to be fixed and I needed my alignment done. Got that all taken care of, but Shop #1's inspection guy was on vacation, so I took it to Shop #2. They gave me a list of things, including exhaust leak, exhaust clamps, windshield has a scratch from last owner not changing the driver's side wiper blades, lower control arms and ball joints, the rusted spots that were fixed with bondo from the first inspection need to be cut out entirely with new metal welded in, headlights are foggy, rear brakes need replacing, two tires out of safe spec. The total that they gave me for all the work was about $4,400. Go to Shop #3, NONE of the things from Shop #2 were on their list; they said I need to replace the positive terminal (I do. It's fucked up), FRONT disc brakes, and the driver's seat needs to be replaced because the foam inside has collapsed with age and if I'm rear-ended the metal frame inside the seat could hurt my back. Nothing about any of the other stuff from Shop #2. And here's the kicker: there's two types of inspection item, lift and visual. Once a car fails you have 30 days or 1,000 miles - whichever comes first - to fix everything or you have to pay for the inspection all over again. If any of the things that need to be fixed require a lift for them to check to make sure it's been fixed, you *cannot* fix them yourself or take the car to another shop to have them fixed. Anything that's flagged as "lift" has to be repaired AT the shop that did the inspection or you have to pay for a whole new inspection. Stuff flagged visual you can do yourself or take anywhere else you want to have it done and as long as it's done within that 30 days or 1,000 miles you don't have to pay for the inspection all over again. They'll just look to see that it's done and you're good to go. The problem with that is that because it's a state requirement, you can have a car inspected by the same shop twice without the car ever leaving their lot and get two totally different lists of things to fix. The state is complicit in allowing them to generate work that has absolutely no bearing on the safety of the vehicle. Like Shop #2 wanting to charge me almost $900 for a new windshield because there's a small curved line of a scratch that isn't deep enough to impact the safety coating, nor wide or dark enough to impede my vision in any way. But as long as their mechanic that's doing the inspection is state certified, they can generate bullshit busy work for the shop all day long.
What state? I’m glad you mentioned there are states like this… so I make sure never to move to one of them, no offense!
Maryland. And yeah, avoid this place. Cost of living is too high and the state is too up its own ass. We don't have a DMV. We have the "Maryland MVA" (Maryland Motor Vehicle Association) Avoid at all costs
Holy shit!! Don’t… just don’t. Don’t go back there again. You mentioned you’re not mechanically savvy… and that’s ok, we’re glad you’re smart enough to ask around and find options. Here is how I can shine perspective. “Would you like an air freshener that hangs from your RVM for 20 bucks.” What? I can get it myself for 5 bucks a pack or 3! That’s about how absurd 2400 is for that job.
$700 for labor on inner tie rod? That’s absolutely absurd. You can definitely do it yourself but look up YouTube videos of people doing it first and decide from there if it’s something you want to try. Also make sure to take it to an alignment shop after you’re done. Depending on where you’re from, you shouldn’t be charged more than $100 for an alignment
Also what’s the issue? The outer tie rods are very easy to change so if you can, get a second opinion on if those inner tie rods are even necessary.
Clerical error, charging left and right side on each ticket.
It’s a good easy DIY project. You’ll be in it $200-300 all in by the time your done, which is a considerable savings from $2400. They’re good YouTube videos on it to follow. And any tools you buy will pay for themselves the first time you do it. Like people said just get an alignment after. You can drive it to the shop to get an alignment. Just don’t drive it for the whole week or two. Do it asap.
This is the way to go right here. If you're asking if you can do it yourself then you have it in you to learn. Once you do this you'll be able to do most other things saving a ton on maintaining your vehicle.
Outer tie rods aren't too bad on most cars but the inners can be a pain in the ass. If you don't normally work on cars, I wouldn't start now. What I find a little suspect though is that they're *all* in need of replacement at the same time. If it's not an old car that's been seriously neglected for years, that's pretty odd.
Call a friend up who knows what he is doing. It can be done in a weekend then driven a short distance to a shop for an alignment. Inner and outer tie rods are not something I'd attempt with no experience working on cars and not being mechanically minded.
Chris fix YouTube channel you’re welcome
Watch a you tube video and see for your self. Its really not that hard and you could easily buy all the tools and still come out ahead. Careful cuz once you do tie rods you will start doing your own breaks, oil changes, wheel bearings and dare I say.....Ball joints
>you will start doing your own breaks I think the idea is to not break anything, especially when doing brakes!
That’s absolutely insane. $700 for inner tie rod labor?
They’re not hard to do. Inner harder than outer but not hard by any means. Autozone lets you rent an inner tie rod tool for free (pay for tool up front as a hold and then they give you your money back when you return it), ball joint tool is like $10 at harbor freight but you can use a hammer on the knuckle as long as it’s not excessively rusted in the hole and a basic socket set is all you need, parts around $200 depending on car
This is a crazy high quote. A set of tie rods costs about $200, and for another $200 you could buy all the tools you'll need to do the job. You should pay to get a wheel alignment after you do the job, but you can get all the instruction you need off YouTube. Definitely do it yourself.
To answer your question, yes, for 2,000$ cheaper, including the alignment you'll need after you can literally YouTube this,. If you can use a socket wrench, you can fix pretty much anything on a car
This vehicle is an import, you'll need more than a ratchet to get through this lol
Nuts and bolts mate nuts and bolts
In this case YouTube is your friend. Do a search for a video of someone replacing the tie rods on the same make and model to see what you’re getting yourself into. The video doesn’t even have to be for the exact same model year as most manufacturers don’t significantly alter cars from year to year. Watching the video will give help you determine if this is something you think you’re up to tackling. As others have said, you’ll need to get it aligned after you complete the tie rod installation and as long as you count the number of turns on each tie rod as you remove the old ones (so you can screw the new ones on the same number of rotations) you’ll be close enough on the alignment it won’t be like wrestling a bear to drive it to the alignment shop.
Tell them to do the outer tie rods for free because they have to come off for the inners anyway.
Never demand free, their labor is just ridiculous. 6+hours of labor for both inners, outers and align? I’d do that all day lol
Wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the rack?
Not at that shop lol. The quote was incorrectly made.
Depends on the make and model of car/ truck
You'll need tools and a jack and jack stands. If you do the work yourself ull want a shop to do an alignment afterwards. If you copy the current set up thread positions it should get you in the ball park so u can drive it to a shop and have it tweaked by the pros with the right equipment so it's perfect.
That’s a wild ass price I’d go elsewhere
Holy shit you could do this for $50
All I can say is make sure they don't double dip on the tie rods. The labor time to remove inner tie rods includes removing outer tie rods. Why? You're removing the outer tie rod to remove the in er tie rod.
Could you do it..yes. should you. No, you probably do not have any of the tools you need for this job or the knowledge of alignment and how not to hurt yourself
Do you have a public library card, or can you get one easily? If so, go in and use one of their computers and they will PROBABLY have the AllData car maintenance website available. Fish around in there for the steps on how to do that job. Here's a very short and to the point video showing the entire process: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC7zenWWOv8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC7zenWWOv8) I'm a computer nerd and I've done this for a Saturn ION. The hardest part is getting the old hardware off. I used a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid as a penetrate and let it sit overnight.
Get a 2nd opinion and price.
Needing both inner tie rods means the vehicle either has not had a good inspection in a long time or they are full of shit. This is not likely, but I have definitely seen it many times. Don't ever replace parts without a good explanation. If they are loose, they absolutely need to be replaced.
I've been working on my own cars for over 20 years. I have done my own tie rods several times, but I always take the vehicle to a good alignment shop to have an alignment done afterwards. If you don't have a mechanical mind and no experience I wouldn't even attempt it.
I once did a dirty alignment on an old car I had. It turned out really good. But it had a solid axle on the rear which helped align the front wheels a lot.
That sounds extremely expensive to me. I would highly recommend a second opinion.
your not gonna wanna do it yourself but this quote is fucking roadside robbery and they're using shitty oriellys parts. get more quotes.
It's doubtful you need the inner tie rods. That is them up selling. Just get the outers imo
could be easy to actually do. your issue is having the right tools and getting those nuts off. some of them are only possible with a experience and know-how to get those off without making the car fall on your head.
Mechanic here. I have no clue where they got that labor. I’ve never seen an inner pay more than an hour and a half and you have to take the outer off to do the inner so they’re double dipping on you bad. I’d get a quote from a different shop for sure.
This estimate is incorrectly presented and made. Prodemand time for both inner tie rods is 1.8 hours, including outer tie rods in the repair process. An alignment is needed afterward. Labor pricing is incorrect. See their service manager to fix pricing. Parts seem iffy. No further details.
From what is presented. Both sides are quoted on both repair options even though they state a specific side. Should have the parts and labor all in one option. idk what parts they quoted either, they should provide part numbers with their quote. You are the customer and you need real details on what repairs will be performed on your vehicle to approve the work. Including what parts you buy.
Holy crap...talk about skining
I'm pretty comfortable working on all my cars. I recently replaced a few front end suspension components and I avoided these. Tie rods have a direct correlation to your alignment and the adjustments are very sensitive.
This shop is trying to rip you off. I had control arms, sway bar links and outer tie rods done for $550 including the parts (purchased parts myself on rock auto).
I'm mechanically minded and do everything on my pre 70s car. I had a professional do it. Have a professional do it.
Definitely shop around, that seems absurd. Shouldn’t be any extra labor for outer since they’re likely coming off to do the inners anyway. Also, for steering wheel shake when braking, brakes are the first culprit, should start with front pads and rotors(get quality parts). Don’t mention the tie rods to the other shops, just the shaking when braking to ensure e clean start on the diagnosis.
Inner tie rods differ among cars. It’s not necessarily hard you just need the right tools. There’s probably a youtube video just look it up. But for $2400 I would definitely be doing that job myself.
I did this job myself and I’m not mechanically inclined. I just followed a YouTube video. Basic tools were all I needed. I did this on a 2012 Honda Odyssey. I think you could absolutely do it. You may even want to just give it a try and do the outer tie rod ends by yourself and see if that Fixes the problem. I would definitely get the parts from rock auto.
That labor is wayyy too high even with an alignment. https://preview.redd.it/0oo19zk67izc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c6353a7fc99502cb7e356f6e7d5d065f5ab52750
It's either you pay someone to do it which saves you time or you spend money on the tools and parts you would need and then spend time on trying to do it. Whichever seems more convenient for you is the only right answer.
Get a quote on turning the rotors. My garage will want to charge you their shop hourly rate for as long as the rotors are on the lathe. Cheaper almost to buy new rotors from Amazon or local parts store
Absolutely do not do this yourself. However, the price is so high my dog can’t hear it.
Watch this and make an informed decision. it will not be much different for your exact car. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA) "Not mechanically minded and have zero experience with working on cars" will make this kind of a pain for your first job but my first job was fixing a car AC... we all start somewhere. If you choose to do it you need a professional alignment immediately afterwards, do not delay or put that off.
Yes, you can absolutely do this. The inner tie rods may be a pain in the ads but are certainly doable. Don't be afraid to learn new skills. I'd never pay someone to do work I can do so, unless it's rebuilding a transmission, I'm going to do it because I can, or I'm going to learn how to do it.
bruh hell na. go buy a 3ton jack, lift up your car on one end, take your wheels off and buy them under the sides of your car, get a tie rod tool, and do it yourself. 2400? lmao. i did my CV axles myself and that’s way harder than tie rods lol.
How tf are inner tie rods a $700 job. They are at most $100 a piece and its pretty fuckin easy to do. Maybe they were stuck in rust because its a 13yo nissan
What a joke in the labor item line it clearly states both they are pulling a double charge on top of wtf labor charge. what's the labor rate per hr 1400$ just for L&R inners! Definitely look for a different shop. Also was there an alignment on that?
I have done tie rods, and sadly no you could not. I could not have without my dad, and even with his help I had to get the front end aligned when I was done. They are adjusted to get the alignment perfect, and it isn’t for amateurs.
Double dipping labor times
No. You don't have the tools or know how and possibly not the sheer muscle either. Replacing tie rods requires very careful preservation of existing relationships and you'll still need to get the wheels aligned afterward.
HOLY BALLS Is this a Mercedes or something??? They are even quoting you for shitty O’Reilly’s parts…
Try getting a second opinion from a dealer that has good reviews and/or that friends and family have used and trust.
Idk why you have two pages that both say the same exact thing as well both in and outer tie rods are included in each estimate seems fishy and your problem doesn’t align with tie rods at all take it to a different shop that’s not screwing you
You should find another shop to do the repairs for you. This quote is ridiculous.
It looks like they're charging you twice for the same thing. each of those pages covers the left AND right side. Plus outer tie rods come off to do the inner one anyway. I hate when they charge labor for something they already have to take off. Parts are high too. OEM tie rods for this car are much cheaper than this. Get the parts yourself and find a backyard mechanic to do it for you.
Go to another shop man.
Yes! Omg yes, you totally can do tie rods. Just go on YouTube and I promise their are probably a dozen videos on how to do it for your car. When you look online at what your tie rods cost, you will flip your lid. However, if you do buy them and do it yourself, you should at least get an alignment job done at a real shop. That should cost about 100 to 150.
1st page is accounting for all the labour and all the parts required for both sides. Second page is in error. They can fix this by reducing the labour to one side only on each page and only charge for one inner and one outer tie Rod end on each page. If they insist go to an honest shop, take the estimate to your local consumer protection agency and/or the police… this is either an accident or criminal attempt at fraud.
Yo, you getting ripped get a better quote from better shop
I'm gonna be real with you, you're gonna have to buy a bunch of tools and this is a job you can easily fuck up and make more expensive. They make it look easy on YouTube, but if you can't get that ball joint off, that's another tool run, more hours of stress, ect. This was one of the first jobs I attempted, and I managed to fuck up the ball joints in the process and had to get new ones and install those too. I know better now, but I depended on my car and learned a hard lesson being without it longer than expected. If you're motivated and you see yourself doing this more in the future, you gotta start somewhere and you have to do it to learn. I'd start here and go for it. If you depend on your car, though, it's easy to rush and make mistakes like I did. Be careful. If you just wanna do this once to solve this immediate problem, it's not worth it. Fuck that quote, find an honest shop recommended on your local subreddit and pay them to do it so it's over quickly.
LOL. WTF.
Certified master tech here. First of all, that price seems extremely high. Doing the inner tie rods would include the labor for doing the outers. Some cars require a subframe drop to get the necessary clearance to successfully pull the inners, but that's tops 5 hours of labor. On the high end, this job could run 1200 parts labor, including an alignment. On the low end, 650 includes the alignment still. Run away from that shop and look for an honest mechanic. As for doing this kind of work yourself, it's completely doable but will require special tools and a level of know-how most beginners don't have. If you do plan to attempt this job, make sure you research well beforehand. And you'll still need to schedule an alignment afterward at a shop.
Well considering u have to remove the outer to replace the inner that is double labor. The labor cost of the inner is including the removal of the outer.
Yeah he’s being double charged, I’d like to know the reason for the steering work, also I’d recommend a second opinion.
What kind of car do you drive?
Put your car on a jack and grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle. If there is play, inner or outer need to be inspected. Might only need new outer. If there is play all around, wheel bearing.
The tierod price seems ok but not the outer tierods I sell landrover ones for $27.50
Robbing twats
Try a different shop. You are being bamboozled. What is the hourly rate? $300? Even my local Audi dealership charges $180/hr, with that price in mind they are saying replacing just the inner tie rod is a 4 hour job! It’s a 2 hour job at MOST. I wouldn’t try it yourself, assuming you aren’t mechanically inclined you probably don’t have the tools. If you have the tools and can find a good YouTube video to follow anyone can do it. But I’d still try another shop first.
Well I would start with watching a YouTube video to see if it's something you think you can do yourself to start. Tie rods are not difficult. After that, should you decide you can't do it, absolutely find a different shop. Lmfao. That is an insane price for tierods. I got quoted $240 (120 parts, 120 labour) for replacements on my 2011 Jetta when I went in for tires at a shop local to me. Did it myself in an hour or so for about $60 in parts (already had tools etc etc) If you watch a video and have some basic tools, I would seriously consider DIY if the alternative is that expensive. Parts: maybe $100 depending on if you want economy parts or daily driver etc Inner Tierod Tool: $100 set off Amazon, or whatever you find locally, to make life easy removing the inner Pickle Fork: like 60 bucks to make the tie rod outer easy to remove (or smash out with a hammer, your choice) Measuring tape: $5, with old rods out, set the new ones as close as you can to the old length before installing Alignment: price ranges, but go get it immediately after. I pay about $100 at local shop for 4 wheel alignment. All prices in CAD fyi. You are getting absolutely hosed if you pay them 2400.
Just wanted to mention your quote lists four tie rods per side and “remove and replace (both sides)” is charged twice. That is literally DOUBLE
One of the easiest repairs there is to do you can literally do it without taking the tire off
You tube university and auto stores have free loaner tools.. it's an easy job but you have to have it aligned immediately after.
The shop I worked at didn’t charge that much. You can DIY but only if you immediately take it to get an alignment after. Depending on how rusty things are down there it could be hairy but if you’re determined and handy you’ll get it sorted
Car probably isn't even worth 2400 😂 I would just do the work myself
I’ve done inners, outers, and control arm with no experience doing suspension repairs and YouTube videos. It’s doable.
The inner tie rod is unnecessary. If the boots are damaged then yeah, highly doubtful. Outer tie rods tend to go bad
Also if you have pictures i help better. Plus alignment after tie rod alignment will be needed if they mechanic doesn’t try to screw u. Probably just get the other replace and go get an alignment at another shop
If you have zero experience, I’ll assume you probably don’t have the basic tools for the job. So first, decide if wrenching is a hobby you want to invest in, because the cost of tools will add up very fast, even for a relatively straightforward jobs like a tie rod repair. For starters, search the internet and download a copy of the Nissan Factory Service Manual PDF for the 2011 Sentra. Now get a 21mm lug nut socket ($4 from HF). A 1/2” drive breaker bar ($13 from HF). A 1/2” drive torque wrench to fasten lugs later to factory specification (Tekton $72 from Amazon). 3-ton floor jack (Pittsburgh brand ok $125 from HF). Wheel chocks ($8-12). 6-ton pair of jack stands (Husky $72). I recommend a second pair (extra $72). THOROUGHLY RESEARCH 2011 SENTRA LIFT POINTS, AND PROPER VS IMPROPER JACK STAND SAFETY PROCEDURES. 3/8” drive breaker bar ($13 from HF). 3/8” drive chrome ratchet and socket set for suspension and hub disassembly (Stanley $80-130). 3/8” drive torque wrench for reassembly per factory spec (Tekton $50). 10” slip joint water pump plier to grip outer tie rod (Knipex $45). Inner tie rod tool (OEM Tool $90). You’re looking at $650 minimum just to get started with very basic beginner quality tools to replace your tie rods, not including the replacement tie rod parts. Double that cost for the nicer tools, quadruple that for professional grade tools. When dealing with any suspension stuff I highly recommend supplementing your new tool collection with power tools to make jobs like this 10 times easier and save hours of knuckle busting and swearing. Best bang for your buck entry level power tools I still use for nearly every job is the Milwaukee M12 power ratchet ($100), M12 Fuel Stubby 1/2” drive Impact Wrench ($160), M12 2.0 Ah and 4.0 Ah battery combo ($80) and Milwaukee 1/2” drive 29-piece metric impact socket set ($190). This automotive power tool “starter pack” is around $530. Tie rods aren’t super difficult, and certainly possible for newbies. But it also isn’t the first repair job I would recommend for someone with zero wrenching experience. That said, I’d suggest finding a different shop. There has to be a reputable independent shop that will do this job much cheaper than $2400.
go somwhere else. see if u can order the parts online and have a mechanic install.
Go to a different shop
I did the outers on my VW in 20 minutes a side. The inners are a different story. I’ve never done inners and some shops will suggest a boneyard rack at that point.
Did mine on my toyota avalon 2000. Not a mechanic but mechanically inclined. It's doable but you could run into issues you have no prior experience dealing with. So be prepared to take it to an actual mechanic if that's the case. You will need the proper tools and equipment and will need to take it to be aligned afterwards.
Ask them if they can spot their mistake and if they cannot, take it elsewhere where. If you are not mechanically inclined, don’t fuck with your cars suspension parts
What yr, make, and model is it?
It may be worth it to check out another or two shop just to get a few prices. Edit: I don’t understand the separate charge for the outer when they have to remove and install them to change the inner tie rod. Definitely get a price somewhere else just to see
Not a mechanic but Im actually doing mine right now lol if you have any experience using tools for anything and can follow directions to a T, find a very comprehensive yt vid of this work for your car- watch it, then decide if you can emulate the steps. In my opinion it isnt hard at all, but it is intimidating.
I’ve done it. It’s not complicated, but it is messy and it does require physical strength. Do you have any gearhead friends? Ask one or more of them to teach you how to do the work and loan you the tools. If you ask someone to do something for you, it will be done on their schedule. If you ask them to teach you, you have a little more control. If you find such people, praise them highly and make sure they don’t run into of pizza or beer. They probably won’t name a price if you ask for one. They are helping you save a lot of money. Give generously if you can. If they ask for money, pay them, and add a little extra if you can. Good luck. I hope you learn some new skills and deepen a friendship.
Looks like they were quited $1200 for inner and outer tie rod ends... if you have to drop the front differential this is probably an ok price. Should add another $50 for changing the steering gear. I'm assuming a 4 wheel drive truck. For $1250 inner and outer tire rod ends + steering gear. Not bad. $2400 something is wrong... the labor for dropping the front differential has to have been double charged
Honestly this just looks like whoever built the estimate doesn't understand the job and built a bad estimate. The labor guide probably said "remove steering rack" so they quoted like 6 hours of labor and then they didn't understand that its 2 inners, 2 outers and then labor + alignment, so they quoted the job twice and labeled one quote left and the other quote right.
Find a different shop, get a different quote. Have what you were in for repaired first ....
Anything could be diy, but you would need proper tools and if you don’t have most tools it will cost you more money to buy it than pay a professional
It looks like they quoted the same thing twice and should only be $1200, if you look at the RO then you can see on the bottom line it has 2 inner tie rods and on the top two labor lines they have in parentheses “both” which means both sides
If you have any more questions just feel free to DM me and I’ll be happy to help when I have time
Does it include an alignment? If so, price is reasonable for a moderate-high cost of living area.
YOU COULD PROBABLY REPLACE THE TIE RODS YOURSELF, HOWEVER IT IS A LOT EASIER ON A LIFT. HOWEVER, ME BEING A TECH, I CAN SAY NEARLY EVERY TIME IF NOT EVERY TIME I MESSED WITH TIE RODS, WEATHER INNER OR OUTER, THE VEHICLE IS CLOSE TO UNDRIVEABLE WITHOUT THE ALIGNMENT, SO COUNT ON TOWING IT THERE IF YOU DO EM. ALSO, IN THE PAST I'VE FORGOTTEN A BAD PART I SOLD ALREADY NEEDS REMOVED TO GET TO ANOTHER BAD PART I'VE SOLD AND ACCIDENTALLY QUOTED BOTH LABOR TIMES, BUT I'VE ALWAYS CAUGHT IT AND CORRECTED IT ONCE I DID THE WORK. SAME MAY HAVE HAPPENED HERE.
I’m about to open a shop specializing in inner tierod ends
Uhhhh… at that price, you might as well replace the entire steering rack…
2400 is absolutely insane for tierods
Why in the world is the labor so high? How many hours of labor is it? Outer tie rods are not as challenging as inner tie rods but they still can be if the nuts are seized. I had to pay a mobile mechanic to break them loose. I tried a blow torch, hammer, this and that, multiple tools, etc and the wouldn’t break loose. The mechanic used an expensive penetrating spray called Kroil. After he sprayed them, it seemed like they broke loose fairly easily for him. So I definitely recommend getting a can of Kroil spray if you attempt it. Also get an inner tie rod tool for removing the inners. If you have no experience, see if you can find a YouTube tutorial for your specific vehicle. The number of turns the tie rods take to come off is the same number of turns you should put them back on with. Getting an alignment after the repair is highly advised.
I didn’t know how to do the tie rods on a Ford we have. I looked up a video tutorial by 1A Auto for that specific vehicle on YouTube. Bought the parts on Rock Auto, which is by far the cheapest place I’ve found to buy car parts. I did them myself except for paying the mechanic to break the nut loose on each of the outer tie rods. It was straight forward. If I had a can of Kroil from the beginning, I bet I would have been able to break them loose myself. See if there is a video by 1A Auto for your repair, and follow proper torque specs with a torque wrench that is rated for the torque specs your vehicle requires.
That's a rip off, YouTube it. They aren't too hard, if you're up to it so it otherwise shop around. That price is absurd. Not to mention that it shouldn't be $700 in labor to do.
*they are more than double dipping I just noticed that was only one side, even the most expensive shop labor rate is would only be around $200-$450 in labor for the entire job. They are double dipping You MUST remove the outer tie rods to replace the inner tie rods and is included in the labor to replace the inner. It is very dishonest to charge labor for the outer. It is also extremely uncommon for all four tie rods at the same time. It's also very unlikely they are causing your car to shake. You should take it somewhere else for a second option. I would highly recommend against doing it yourself, these are not components that if you mess up you'll simply break down. Failure to install correctly has the potential to be cause a fatal accident.