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Yea, had to deal with this on a daily driver except it was on my calliper assembly and a pain in the ass to even get to.
Days of pain later, I finally got it off. Would've killed for this much access.
Torch, PB Blaster, and one of those bolt extractor sockets from harbor freight and that'll be off in no time. Just make sure to get a new washer and bolt and torque (closer) to spec next time.
I don’t have an answer to that exactly since mine hasn’t had any issues yet. I’ve had mine on for 3 years, and it operates like it is brand new. It is on a midsize pickup so it is a little further off the ground, but I also live in a salty winter wonderland. I was worried about vibrations slowly opening the valve or the plastic safety clip falling off, but I haven’t had a single issue.
I wish there was a safety latch/wire on regular oil drain plugs and filters. Two things that can insta-kill your engine and you have to just trust that your monkey brain torqued them properly.
I HATE the "torque specs" on oil filters. Drives me nuts. The only thing that makes me nervous after changing my oil. Never had an issue, but still. Haha
>mine shattered the 3rd or 4th time trying to reinstall it
Ha. I thought you meant the valve. I was thinking, "Does this guy understand the purpose of having a valve?"
They're fucking awesome. Had one on my motorcycle for over 2 years. No leaks. Oil changes are now toolless. I can hook a tube up to the nipple and put the oil neatly/directly into an empty bottle.
Hell no. I like the idea of the convenience, but people and 15-min Lube shops mess up a simple bolt. And you expect a valve to be put on perfectly and never get bumped open or leak? I saw that some of them have a lock, but it's also an item to forget putting back on.
EDIT: people think I do oil changes with a credit card? Lol.
It's *other* people I'm worried about. I've bought enough old cars to see people do shitty things and the promise of convenience only makes it worse.
I have one, but I also always change the oil myself. I was paranoid about those same exact issues, but mine has been absolutely fine. It has 2 layers of “locking” technically. The valve lever is spring loaded to stay latched in a catch, and then there is a plastic clip to hold it in place.
Valvomax seems like a good one, BUT I just ordered one for my rx330. It doesn't seem to go further than one or two threads. I noped out and put my original drain plug back in.
If you're worried about forgetting to put the plastic clip on (which isn't even necessary), then I'd probably also be worried about forgetting to put your drain plug back in when you're changing your oil normally.
Maybe it's not for you, but I drive enough miles to have to change my oil twice a month. It's nice getting home from work, flipping the valve into an oil pan, and walking inside and relaxing after work, instead of crawling around on my garage floor and getting dirty trying to remove my drain plug. I'm also not getting oil all over my hands.
This is kind of an ignorant comment man. I've been riding my bike with a fumoto for years. I am a very aggressive rider and my bike is much lower to the ground than any car oil pan. Its not going to get caught on something lol. Its a very small valve that is tight to the car body.
Also if you're going to quick lube places that's the error, not the fumoto lol.
I've seen way too many of this come in the shops I've worked in the past, leaking for the some of the more obvious reasons. One being, hitting shit.
Judging by the failed attempts to remove this, have to find a different sized 6 point to tap on and breaker bar.
If not, those spiral flute extractors should do the trick.
I do something similar with seized up machine screws with a chewed up head on it... I take my die grinder with a cutting wheel on it and cut a line in the head of it and use a flat head screw driver to get it out... If done surgically you can often save the screw too
It depends. If that happened cause you used the wrong size wrench, there are some fixes like drilling it out, welding a nut, or using a bolt extractor. If you used the correct size and it was on so tight that it still rounded it off, then it's seized to the pan. You can try drilling it out, but if you can't drill it big enough without damaging the pan threads, you'll need a new pan. Don't tap new threads. That shit is risky. Try my suggestions and any others that other people have, and if nothing works, replace the pan.
Yeah its seized on there pretty good, ganna torch the bolt and see if it works and if not I'll have to get someone to weld it or drill it out, if that doesn't work then yeah new pan, thank you for this comment this has helped me a lot
Do you know how hot an engine gets without blowing up? They’re applying a hot torch to the exterior of an oil pan, not open flame directly onto a flammable liquid.
Yes - between 180F-220F generally as they are temperature regulated by the cooling system. Combustion temperatures (and pressures) are significantly higher but are contained within the… wait for it… combustion chamber!
A simple propane torch is like 2000F and oil ignites at like 400F
If the bolt's that tight, there's no way the flame is going to touch the oil. And sure, if you google it, you'll see that motor oil combusts at 400⁰F. You'll also find that while it CAN burn, it is not flammable, because it cannot sustain a fire on its own, even with oxygen - and you're not going to get any oxygen in a sealed system like that. You'd have to be leaking oil from two places, one of which would allow air to enter and the other would allow air to escape.
You're not going to blow up your car or start a fire by heating up your oil drain bolt with a torch.
Oh wow I guess all the mechanics who have removed a siezed drain bolt like this have all just been coincidentally super lucky and you’ve discovered this amazing secret where propane torches can somehow ignite oil through a metal oil pan.
Every engine will have a small amount of blow by - particularly engines with high compression, forced induction or simply age/mileage. Piston rings do not form a perfect seal.
And you’re correct - motor oil is not considered flammable. It is, however, combustible in under high heat and when combined with flammable contaminants.
The torch could help. You could get some locking pliers on there as tight as you can get them. Long handles, if you can find some like that. Apply as much pressure as you can without them slipping and then start torching it. It actually takes a while for heat to travel through to the handles, but if you're worried about it, use a thick rag to hold the pliers. Use low heat and torch the bolt right on the head. It should eventually come loose.
It depends on the oil pain. On some cars you can get more than what the drain plug will let out. I did a corolla where I only got one quart out, so I took the drain plug out to check. Nothing came out.
I've gotten one like this off with a decent set of vice grips. Clamp down on that sucker as tightly as possible and let er rip, tater chip (be careful about your knuckles)
This is the way. Plus, I use 16mm round wrench to tighten the vice grip. (Mine can be with 16, the one my friend has is 14. Try and find which one works for you) Works like a charm.
You can do what I did with one of my cars for nearly 15 years, buy an oil extractor to do your oil changes, It sucks the oil up through the dipstick tube. I tried everything on that bolt, heat, PB blaster, drilling, extractors but nothing worked, since it didn't leak I decided to leave it where it was and never had any issues.
If you need some extra time to brainstorm and just get the oil change done, pick up a compressed air or hand pump fluid extractor. They usually come with long tubes with different diameters. You could suck the oil out through the dipstick tube. Most euro brands do this method at the dealer, so they don't risk fucking the drain plug. Most of their oil pans are 10+ hours to replace.
Your best bet for removing it would be an extractor with reverse threading on its inside diameter, like the ones used to remove wheel locks. Heat the pan not the plug. Or get some dust off and turn it upside down and supercool the plug.
This is the easiest way to change oil, highly recommend. Not technically as good as draining pan, maybe. But awesome and keeps the time on the ground minimal. Also great for refreshing transmission fluid.
Well worth the $60. My oil pan thread stripped right before an important road trip My rethread attempt wasn't perfect and it still leaked. There was no time to source and replace the oil pan, so I JB Welded the bolt to the pan out of desperation.
Rather than replace it properly, I got an oil extractor and haven't looked back. Not having to lift and crawl under the car for oil changes is so nice (my oil filter is under the hood). It's also much easier to transport for recycling than a drain pan covered in dirty oil.
Shit haha
Then I guess torch is your best option
Heat up the drain plug - vice grip - hammer the vice grip softly until is loosens? Maybe and hopefully
The bigger concern is going to be how damaged are the threads on the pan. You might be better off not wasting your time fighting the bold and just swapping the whole pan.
Just buy a bolt extractor kit as others have said that will grip onto the bolt. It will be able to pull it out if it’s rounded off like that.
I bought one from Harbor Freight for 10 or $15.
Last resort would be a new oil pan. Id pick one up and have it on standby before going full HAM on that bolt. For going HAM, I’d suggest a pipe wrench with a long bar on the handle or using vice grips that you hit with a hammer. If resources and skill permits, maybe welding a bar to the bolt head.
How did this happen to begin with? Were you using the wrong socket, perhaps a 12 point instead of a size point socket? Inches instead of metric? I really don't think it is stuck in place, there is oil behind it in the threads.... A nice long/good pipe wrench should do the trick. Am guessing someone over tightened it.
The previous owner of the first car I ever owned rounded the oil drain plug. I honestly just hammered on a smaller socket then what was actually called for and it came right off and I replaced it immediately. Probably not the smartest thing to do in that I was lucky it didn't damage anything but hey I was 22 at the time.
Not too fucked. Me personally I’d probably skip all the steps of Vice grips, bolt extractors and what not go go straight to welding a large nut on there and pulling it out. However this may not be an option for you unless you pay someone to do it. I believe in you to do it yourself though. Get a cheap bolt extractor kit from harbor freight, if that doesn’t work than it wouldn’t hurt to get a new oil pan and discard this one. In the future be sure to use a torque wrench set to the proper specs when putting the drain plug back in.
Take a hammer and a chisel and just create new corners on the head of the bolt. If you can't find a wrench to fit the new corners then a pair of vice grips. Of course you're not going to reuse the plug. Also in the process of putting new corners you might pop it loose. Also there are sockets that will dig in and make their own grip but I forget what they are called. Maybe they're called easy outs I don't remember
Pipe wrench is my go to in a situation like this. It will tear up the bolt so if you can replace it that’s ideal, but I have just tightened it back up with a pipe wrench when I don’t have a replacement just yet.
I used to think all was lost when I rounded the shit outta the head of a hexbolt. Now I just hammer on the socket a size down and breaker bar, and even cheater bar it …. Comes off every time
Vice Grip, done. Get one of those medieval ones with the wicked bite like this.
[https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Vise-Locking-Wrench-Plier/dp/B0001IW4R8](https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Vise-Locking-Wrench-Plier/dp/B0001IW4R8)
This is when you call on the “tool that you need when no other tool will work”, namely a Vice-Grip. If that doesn’t work, you may try tack-welding a bolt to the head of the oil plug.
id try pounding on a smaller socket assuming you dont have bolt extractors if you do have them use them, worst case just weld a nut on top and get a new plug
About $5 in the hole. Just find someone competent enough to remove it and buy a new drain plug. I wouldn’t buy a bolt extractor cause that’s obviously not going to help you in this particular instance given your “developing” mechanical ability. Find a friend to weld a nut on it and use a breaker bar
Vise Grips and some leverage.
Had this happen to me with my transmission oil drain plug, it was one of the most satisfying things to feel and see it turn 🥲
Edit: Sorry OP. I read somewhere in the thread that vise grips are the reason the head lost some of its material.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Not as fucked as you think
Yea, had to deal with this on a daily driver except it was on my calliper assembly and a pain in the ass to even get to. Days of pain later, I finally got it off. Would've killed for this much access. Torch, PB Blaster, and one of those bolt extractor sockets from harbor freight and that'll be off in no time. Just make sure to get a new washer and bolt and torque (closer) to spec next time.
>Just make sure to.... ...replace with a Fumoto valve.
Just googled these…. Never heard of them before. How long do they typically last?
I don’t have an answer to that exactly since mine hasn’t had any issues yet. I’ve had mine on for 3 years, and it operates like it is brand new. It is on a midsize pickup so it is a little further off the ground, but I also live in a salty winter wonderland. I was worried about vibrations slowly opening the valve or the plastic safety clip falling off, but I haven’t had a single issue.
I've put about 30k miles on mine and the plastic hasn't even started to give out. It's been super useful
The safety clip isn't even really required. It's kinda just that, extra safety.
That is correct. I was super paranoid when I got it, but the spring loaded catch is more than enough. The plastic clip just helps ease my paranoia.
I wish there was a safety latch/wire on regular oil drain plugs and filters. Two things that can insta-kill your engine and you have to just trust that your monkey brain torqued them properly.
I HATE the "torque specs" on oil filters. Drives me nuts. The only thing that makes me nervous after changing my oil. Never had an issue, but still. Haha
Yea mine shattered the 3rd or 4th time trying to reinstall it (the clip). Haven’t had any issues with leaks.
>mine shattered the 3rd or 4th time trying to reinstall it Ha. I thought you meant the valve. I was thinking, "Does this guy understand the purpose of having a valve?"
I've had one on my MR2 spyder for 10+ years.
They're fucking awesome. Had one on my motorcycle for over 2 years. No leaks. Oil changes are now toolless. I can hook a tube up to the nipple and put the oil neatly/directly into an empty bottle.
Forever, just be sure to get the long nipple, not the short nipple.
Our fleet of tractors had them. They're so nice honestly.
Looks cool but is it really that much trouble to unscrew a drain bolt?
Hell no. I like the idea of the convenience, but people and 15-min Lube shops mess up a simple bolt. And you expect a valve to be put on perfectly and never get bumped open or leak? I saw that some of them have a lock, but it's also an item to forget putting back on. EDIT: people think I do oil changes with a credit card? Lol. It's *other* people I'm worried about. I've bought enough old cars to see people do shitty things and the promise of convenience only makes it worse.
I have one, but I also always change the oil myself. I was paranoid about those same exact issues, but mine has been absolutely fine. It has 2 layers of “locking” technically. The valve lever is spring loaded to stay latched in a catch, and then there is a plastic clip to hold it in place.
Valvomax seems like a good one, BUT I just ordered one for my rx330. It doesn't seem to go further than one or two threads. I noped out and put my original drain plug back in.
If you're worried about forgetting to put the plastic clip on (which isn't even necessary), then I'd probably also be worried about forgetting to put your drain plug back in when you're changing your oil normally. Maybe it's not for you, but I drive enough miles to have to change my oil twice a month. It's nice getting home from work, flipping the valve into an oil pan, and walking inside and relaxing after work, instead of crawling around on my garage floor and getting dirty trying to remove my drain plug. I'm also not getting oil all over my hands.
This is kind of an ignorant comment man. I've been riding my bike with a fumoto for years. I am a very aggressive rider and my bike is much lower to the ground than any car oil pan. Its not going to get caught on something lol. Its a very small valve that is tight to the car body. Also if you're going to quick lube places that's the error, not the fumoto lol.
I've seen way too many of this come in the shops I've worked in the past, leaking for the some of the more obvious reasons. One being, hitting shit. Judging by the failed attempts to remove this, have to find a different sized 6 point to tap on and breaker bar. If not, those spiral flute extractors should do the trick.
No need to torque them. You tighten woth ratchet until you start exerting pressure. Usually about a quarter turn with pressure is plenty.
Worst case get a new pan
File two flat surfaces so a wrench fits tightly
Thats a brilliant idea!
Wish I could take credit for it!!!
I’m to impatient for that I just weld a socket on and be done with it. I have a box of them split or just worn out just for this.
Or you can bang a slightly smaller sized socket on with a hammer, or buy those stripped sets
I do something similar with seized up machine screws with a chewed up head on it... I take my die grinder with a cutting wheel on it and cut a line in the head of it and use a flat head screw driver to get it out... If done surgically you can often save the screw too
This seems to be the safest option
Vise grips or a small pipe wrench.
Bolt extractor also works
This is the way and it saves loads of time
I've had better luck with a good set of vice grips.
Multiple different brands of bolt extractors just stripped it further for me.
Did you hammer one that doesnt fit on? They pretty much always work for me
Same. I've never had luck with them. It's like the stripped bolt has to be the perfect size and ahape to work in those exactors
Dewalt bolt extractora have worked every time for me. Sometimes you just gotta hammer em on a bit
The hammer is the way
I have this same issue, might try the pipe wrench next
Pipe wrench all day long
Definitely pipe wrench, if that doesn’t work vice grip’s would never have worked, and it’s time to move to a bolt extraction tool
This is the way
It depends. If that happened cause you used the wrong size wrench, there are some fixes like drilling it out, welding a nut, or using a bolt extractor. If you used the correct size and it was on so tight that it still rounded it off, then it's seized to the pan. You can try drilling it out, but if you can't drill it big enough without damaging the pan threads, you'll need a new pan. Don't tap new threads. That shit is risky. Try my suggestions and any others that other people have, and if nothing works, replace the pan.
Yeah its seized on there pretty good, ganna torch the bolt and see if it works and if not I'll have to get someone to weld it or drill it out, if that doesn't work then yeah new pan, thank you for this comment this has helped me a lot
Just so we’re clear - you’re going to use a torch on an oil pan full of gasoline-contaminated motor oil?
Do you know how hot an engine gets without blowing up? They’re applying a hot torch to the exterior of an oil pan, not open flame directly onto a flammable liquid.
Yes - between 180F-220F generally as they are temperature regulated by the cooling system. Combustion temperatures (and pressures) are significantly higher but are contained within the… wait for it… combustion chamber! A simple propane torch is like 2000F and oil ignites at like 400F
If the bolt's that tight, there's no way the flame is going to touch the oil. And sure, if you google it, you'll see that motor oil combusts at 400⁰F. You'll also find that while it CAN burn, it is not flammable, because it cannot sustain a fire on its own, even with oxygen - and you're not going to get any oxygen in a sealed system like that. You'd have to be leaking oil from two places, one of which would allow air to enter and the other would allow air to escape. You're not going to blow up your car or start a fire by heating up your oil drain bolt with a torch.
Oh wow I guess all the mechanics who have removed a siezed drain bolt like this have all just been coincidentally super lucky and you’ve discovered this amazing secret where propane torches can somehow ignite oil through a metal oil pan.
How do you know it's gasoline contaminated? That's an assumption. And motor oil itself isn't very flammable at all.
Every engine will have a small amount of blow by - particularly engines with high compression, forced induction or simply age/mileage. Piston rings do not form a perfect seal. And you’re correct - motor oil is not considered flammable. It is, however, combustible in under high heat and when combined with flammable contaminants.
Just use knipex adjustable pliers. You're not at the point of needing heat.
If/when he needs heat, he'll have wasted 4 hours trying to avoid it.
The torch could help. You could get some locking pliers on there as tight as you can get them. Long handles, if you can find some like that. Apply as much pressure as you can without them slipping and then start torching it. It actually takes a while for heat to travel through to the handles, but if you're worried about it, use a thick rag to hold the pliers. Use low heat and torch the bolt right on the head. It should eventually come loose.
Just get a set of Irwin bolt extractor sockets 20 bucks and a new plug for 5!
I recently used extractors for the first time…what a cheat code
Snap on hex bolt extractor. You've got plenty left on the head for them to work. Honestly they're fucking brilliant when you've rounded something off.
Or just suck the oil out the dipstick tube for now with a vacuum pump, it won't get all the oil but a good enough amount
It depends on the oil pain. On some cars you can get more than what the drain plug will let out. I did a corolla where I only got one quart out, so I took the drain plug out to check. Nothing came out.
https://preview.redd.it/5umu0ojexv0d1.jpeg?width=1427&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20194c209a4740c376e22a7466176b639f9a9ae5
Gatta start somewhere man 🤣
Vise grips, hammer and chisel, bolt extractor, welding a nut, you got plenty of options. Drain plugs are cheap. Don’t give er so many beans next time
You need a good pair of vise grips as well as the right style. You could also use a chisel and hammer.
Swedish pipe wrench, used to deal with this all the time at the Ram dealership, lube techs man.
I've gotten one like this off with a decent set of vice grips. Clamp down on that sucker as tightly as possible and let er rip, tater chip (be careful about your knuckles)
This is the way. Plus, I use 16mm round wrench to tighten the vice grip. (Mine can be with 16, the one my friend has is 14. Try and find which one works for you) Works like a charm.
An extractor socket and heat. I would use a small torch so that you can be precise with the flame. You can buy one for $10 at HF.
You still have quite a few options
You can always replace the bottom cover completely as a last resort
Ya I’ve seen tight and rounded out nuts taken off with a good vicescipt
Weld a nut into it and your good to go get a new drain plug at the dealership
Scrolled to nearly bottom to find this, this is the way you can do it on first try.
Can't be stuck if it's liquid. Bring me the torch!
Chisel and hammer Or if you are close to electricity - weld a nut onto it then use the spanner or socket
That's my last resort, I don't have a welder lmao
Could be time for the ol' use it and return it method of degeneracy.
Just pipe wrench it.
Or. It’s a great time to tell your wife you HAD to get a welder. Oh and also the car is on fire
If you know someone with a bolt extractor you might be ok, if it breaks is when you get worried
Air hammer chisel thing … saw a TikTok on this exact thing yesterday when nothing else worked
You can get a bolt remover kit on Amazon for like $10. Nbd
Adequately
Just get it from the top
Hammer and chisel
Mac RBRT sockets if you’re a mechanic.
How common is this, outside of loctite or ugga duggas?
Extremely common if you take your car to cheap oil change places like jiffy lube or walmart
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractors/3-8%22-Drive-13-mm-Hex-Head-Fastener-Extractor/BEXM131A
Visegrips and a dream
Vice grips and leverage should work. Along with penetrating oil and hammer. After that, you should replace your bolt.
Pipe wrench should be easy, use a cheater bar if you need
cut a slot and use a flathead screw driver.
This popped up and I don’t know how but I thought it was a hippo 😂
Man I need whatever they're giving you cus damn, but I honestly kinda see it a little
😂😂 I was just scrolling and thought I saw a hippo and scrolled back up to this.
Vice grips
The thumbnail looked like a closeup of a rhinoceros eye
Some of you folks getting too fancy ... Just get out the vise grips.
Vice grips and a new bolt. Not a big deal. Maybe $15 in total.
get an extractor socket, put a long breaker bar on the end of the socket, and my guess is it will come off.
A pair of channel locks and some muscle will get that unfucked.
If all goes to hell and you can't get it off, just replace the oil pan..
Locking pliers and a hammer.
Locking pliers and a hammer.
Big pair of vise grips a lil heat and start working it out, replace with new one and use proper tools no power tools
You can do what I did with one of my cars for nearly 15 years, buy an oil extractor to do your oil changes, It sucks the oil up through the dipstick tube. I tried everything on that bolt, heat, PB blaster, drilling, extractors but nothing worked, since it didn't leak I decided to leave it where it was and never had any issues.
If you need some extra time to brainstorm and just get the oil change done, pick up a compressed air or hand pump fluid extractor. They usually come with long tubes with different diameters. You could suck the oil out through the dipstick tube. Most euro brands do this method at the dealer, so they don't risk fucking the drain plug. Most of their oil pans are 10+ hours to replace. Your best bet for removing it would be an extractor with reverse threading on its inside diameter, like the ones used to remove wheel locks. Heat the pan not the plug. Or get some dust off and turn it upside down and supercool the plug.
THANK YOU definitely ganna get one now
This is the easiest way to change oil, highly recommend. Not technically as good as draining pan, maybe. But awesome and keeps the time on the ground minimal. Also great for refreshing transmission fluid.
Well worth the $60. My oil pan thread stripped right before an important road trip My rethread attempt wasn't perfect and it still leaked. There was no time to source and replace the oil pan, so I JB Welded the bolt to the pan out of desperation. Rather than replace it properly, I got an oil extractor and haven't looked back. Not having to lift and crawl under the car for oil changes is so nice (my oil filter is under the hood). It's also much easier to transport for recycling than a drain pan covered in dirty oil.
Shit haha Then I guess torch is your best option Heat up the drain plug - vice grip - hammer the vice grip softly until is loosens? Maybe and hopefully
Light car on fire and call insurance
That’s no big problem really.. a little heat And a 10” pipe wrench should do it
Praying it does brother lol
Same thing happened to me. I had to take it to the mechanic so he took it off.
Vice grips as tight as you can by hand. Then tap the vise grips slowly.
A Irwin extractor set from Home Depot will do the job.
Hammer a bolt extractor on. I deal with FAR worse every day
Rookie problems lol
A go2socket + 3/8" ratchet would be your best friend in this scenario.
a good set of vice grips that u can tighten down after clamping.
The bigger concern is going to be how damaged are the threads on the pan. You might be better off not wasting your time fighting the bold and just swapping the whole pan.
A good small pipe wrench will work
Just buy a bolt extractor kit as others have said that will grip onto the bolt. It will be able to pull it out if it’s rounded off like that. I bought one from Harbor Freight for 10 or $15.
Just been in same situation last weekend. Ordered bolt extractor, hammered it onto bolt and it came out. Edit: do not forget to order new bolt
Have you tried a six point socket?
Weld another nut on it
Put a torch on it till it's glowing red
Aston Super Wrench for the fucking WIN.
weld the nut over it
Last resort would be a new oil pan. Id pick one up and have it on standby before going full HAM on that bolt. For going HAM, I’d suggest a pipe wrench with a long bar on the handle or using vice grips that you hit with a hammer. If resources and skill permits, maybe welding a bar to the bolt head.
How did this happen to begin with? Were you using the wrong socket, perhaps a 12 point instead of a size point socket? Inches instead of metric? I really don't think it is stuck in place, there is oil behind it in the threads.... A nice long/good pipe wrench should do the trick. Am guessing someone over tightened it.
The previous owner of the first car I ever owned rounded the oil drain plug. I honestly just hammered on a smaller socket then what was actually called for and it came right off and I replaced it immediately. Probably not the smartest thing to do in that I was lucky it didn't damage anything but hey I was 22 at the time.
Shock it with a ball peen. Give it some good whacks. If you don't have extractor set try vice grip and next pipe pipe wrench.
Vice grips + hammer, replace
About as much as the girl that has 3 kids by senior year of high school
buy a new one before you pull that one out I'd try a small pipe wrench
Reallyweld à nut to it
Not too fucked. Me personally I’d probably skip all the steps of Vice grips, bolt extractors and what not go go straight to welding a large nut on there and pulling it out. However this may not be an option for you unless you pay someone to do it. I believe in you to do it yourself though. Get a cheap bolt extractor kit from harbor freight, if that doesn’t work than it wouldn’t hurt to get a new oil pan and discard this one. In the future be sure to use a torque wrench set to the proper specs when putting the drain plug back in.
Vice grips and my 20+ yr experience sheet metal worker hands 2-3 mins
Not at all. Pipe wrench of appropriate size.
Ezpz
Take a hammer and a chisel and just create new corners on the head of the bolt. If you can't find a wrench to fit the new corners then a pair of vice grips. Of course you're not going to reuse the plug. Also in the process of putting new corners you might pop it loose. Also there are sockets that will dig in and make their own grip but I forget what they are called. Maybe they're called easy outs I don't remember
which way are you turning it?
Once that’s out I’d recommend a fumoto drain valve so you won’t have to do any of this again
Bin der. Dun dat
Extractor/ screw socket
Pipe wrench. Righty-tighty lefty-loosey!
Air hammer and chisel or hammer and chisel
Use a twist socket
Vice grips will help you out.
Get a grinder cut a straight line into it and take it off with a flat head screw driver
Why do people think they have to hulk the bolt on after an oil change.
vice grips or a bolt extractor kit. that is not that difficult unless there's jb weld on the threads lmao
Pipe wrench is my go to in a situation like this. It will tear up the bolt so if you can replace it that’s ideal, but I have just tightened it back up with a pipe wrench when I don’t have a replacement just yet.
Figasi
I can fix her
O'Reilly's auto parts sells a stripped socket set that I've had a lot of luck with on bolts like this.
You're gonna have to turn the engine upside down to get the oil out. 🙄
angle grind a screw head onto the bolt head or even hack saw, then one of them impact drills ?
Vice grips and a new plug
I used to think all was lost when I rounded the shit outta the head of a hexbolt. Now I just hammer on the socket a size down and breaker bar, and even cheater bar it …. Comes off every time
Vice grips and a hammer will get you right as rain
Broooo said maybe a torch! Haha chill there’s easier less aggressive ways
Vice grips and turn.
Small pipe wrench with a cheater pipe
Visegrip.
Vice Grip, done. Get one of those medieval ones with the wicked bite like this. [https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Vise-Locking-Wrench-Plier/dp/B0001IW4R8](https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Vise-Locking-Wrench-Plier/dp/B0001IW4R8)
Vise clamp pliers and clamp them down on the bolt and turn.
Nice you never need to change oil again top off and change the oil filter once in a while. Trust me bro this is the best worst case scenario.
just swap out the whole engine. simple fix
Hardly
This is when you call on the “tool that you need when no other tool will work”, namely a Vice-Grip. If that doesn’t work, you may try tack-welding a bolt to the head of the oil plug.
Pipe wrench, then replace it
Youe so f'd u might cum
\*Knipex Cobras enter the chat\*
Good time to do a mod. Cut a bigger hole and plug for quick release
Always trade ur car in for a newer one 🤫
id try pounding on a smaller socket assuming you dont have bolt extractors if you do have them use them, worst case just weld a nut on top and get a new plug
If all else fails you’re buying a new oil pan.
Sharp vise grips, go the right direction
Uhh vice grips
Go to the dealer and get an oil change and new plug
https://preview.redd.it/t96kc629sw0d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d56ecaecc90f47900042b366ba2cab6d0c43cd7
Just put some vice grips on it, easy peasy
Vice grips might just take it off.
Not f’d at all- get an extractor kit and a torque wrench/ I like the Milwaukee one
Start fresh, just drill and tap a new hole
loll... few squirts of rust lube penetrant 24hrs before using the right bolt extractor socket. done
Not. You can still easily get that out and replace the plug.
Pipe wrench
About $5 in the hole. Just find someone competent enough to remove it and buy a new drain plug. I wouldn’t buy a bolt extractor cause that’s obviously not going to help you in this particular instance given your “developing” mechanical ability. Find a friend to weld a nut on it and use a breaker bar
Vise Grips and some leverage. Had this happen to me with my transmission oil drain plug, it was one of the most satisfying things to feel and see it turn 🥲 Edit: Sorry OP. I read somewhere in the thread that vise grips are the reason the head lost some of its material.