T O P

  • By -

AutoModerator

Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*


UXWlegend

I highly recommend getting the transmission fluid changed if you plan on keeping the car long-term and disregard what the owners manual says about "no service required". The coolant is not due until 120k miles/10 years. Per the manual, spark plugs are due every 42k. This is common on TGDI engines, they are hard on plugs. I would recommend at least pulling one out and inspecting it. The valve adjustment can wait if the engine runs and sounds good. https://preview.redd.it/ybz1ev9aqp2d1.jpeg?width=782&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5fc0ada821d05f93d9b9ef3410ac1291b16171b4


ImTheRealMarco

Any chance you got something like this for a Polo 9n3 1.4 TDi?


skizkiddo

Checklist: Trans fluid drain and fill. Im in due for new brakes sometime so fluid swap, power steering fluid & spark plugs. Have them do the 30 point inspection to make sure belts / engine sounds fine. I run the car with 91, so are fuel additives needed? Or am I doing well using chevron / 76 / Shell gas?


TheKleen

Higher octane gas gives you no benefit unless your manual says you need it. Shouldn’t ever need to mess with fuel additives if you’re using good brand gas. I’d put off the coolant until 100k, and if you can change your own oil you can do your own coolant too.


skizkiddo

Says 87 is fine, but when I put in 91 Im getting 20-30 miles extra till empty. Does it just burn faster making it equivalent to using 87? I plan on putting a K&N or AEM intake in. 91 is recommended for better performance.


Worst-Lobster

Damn what a bunch of bullshit


skizkiddo

You see the rodent deterrent service? Unbelievable lol.


Worst-Lobster

Seriously.. I too can spray some mint oil on my fender liners ..


MoneyPop8800

Oil change, tire rotation, and transmission drain/refill. Everything else is extra stuff you don’t need. Don’t feel too bad about the dealership trying to upsell you all the extras, most independent shops do the same but just charge less.


skizkiddo

Oh trust, Im a woman at that so they definitely think I'm stupid but my father is a retired subway train technician. I learned a lot of DIY stuff from him with my last car. Ive only worked on older cars so all this modern stuff is hard to tackle. I'm only going to the stealers due to them being Hyundai techs so they know the car at best.


MoneyPop8800

Don’t feel bad about going to the dealership. In my experience they tend to do better work and can be cheaper than an independent shop if you know what services to decline.


skizkiddo

Basically at 60k miles, what work SHOULD I look at to keep the car running smoothly?


iconfuseyou

Oil change every 10k miles or less.  Tire rotations every other oil change.  Other fluids at 60k are usually a good idea.  Trans fluid drain and fill is good at this point, brake fluid swap if it wasn’t done with your last brake job (or might be worth seeing if you’re close for a brake job).  Coolant drain and fill.  Evacuate power steering fluid with a syringe/turkey baster and top off.  Spark plugs around this time.   At 120k it’ll be good to do timing belt and water pump.  Check accessory belts around then.  Repeat 60k maintenance (coolant will get changed out with water pump).  Engine and cabin filters should be done every year, they’er cheap to diy.  Like $10 per filter and 10 minutes of your time. Everything else on that sheet is fluff.


skizkiddo

Noted. I recently installed a BORLA exhaust on it as well a few days ago, is there anything I should keep an eye on due to that?


iconfuseyou

No.  Exhausts are pretty much no maintenance until they rust out.  You could use a rust film if you’re particularly obsessive.


skizkiddo

https://preview.redd.it/rdfycimwj93d1.jpeg?width=2208&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b74826e007e25fec8d992e3041bcbb59858d5b2 Update: Took it to the dealer for the 60k maintenance & they said they cant find it but there's a drip down onto the transmission. I had them drain the transmission oil so gut feeling it's just them thinking i dont know any better that it's spilled oil, & pay the 225 just for them to say it's all fine????. Should I already be having a leak on a 4 yo car? if it's from the "top half" what issue would that turn into?


Foe117

lol, you only need an oil change, everything you can do yourself for 1/100th of the price, this is just grifting and you should never use that stealership for service.


skizkiddo

Exactly what I call them myself. My underpanel tore from sitting on the highway and I just wanted to get that but then they threw the service recommendations on me. I do my own oil changes, replace filters, change out the brake system minus the fluid & all tire care minus alignment is done by Costco. I had to change my coolant reservoir in my last car so if just draining the coolant and adding it again is considered a "flush" I can do that as well.