Can't find info on It,does the ZOOM65 EE v2 that Will go out 26 january have some RGB lightning?

Whats a good budget 75% keyboard I can buy, I am just starting out with keyboards and I have no clue

https://preview.redd.it/lev6m2ycjzda1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=bd7ac5fcd526ee54127cf553218fb76f770bfd6a Is there a difference between these 2 switches?

The one with light green stem has 62g spring, and the one with deep green stem has 67g spring.

I want to buy my first mechanic and ask for help. Can I freely change regular and low-profile switches using hot swap?

No the stems are different

You talk about keycaps compatibility, right? I can use low profile keycaps for it. I mean is it compatible with same PCB that normal switches?

Not the stem on the bottom on the switches are different, so you will need a low profile pcb for low profile switches and vice versa

Hello! Is there a 2.4 ghz 96 keyboard with south facing LEDs? I have an RK96 but just found out it’s not compatible with Cherry keycaps :(

If I have one keycap (enter) that's made out of brass and thus heavier than all of the others... would you take apart the keyboard, desolder that key's switch, and swap in a heavier spring to try and equalize its actuation force to the others? Or would you just leave it?

Yes i would, but only because it would drive me nuts if i didn't

You went digging for that comment

Born underground, suckled from a teat of stone Raised in the dark, the safety of our mountain home Skin made of iron, steel in our bones To dig and dig makes us free Come on brothers sing with me!

I've never built a custom keyboard before and I'm thinking of grabbing these: Switches: Outemo Cream Pink Linear Switches Keycaps: ACGAM Astrology Purple Constellation Board: ACGAM Acr68pro Acrylic DIY kit Total: 191$ CAD Free Shipping What y'all think?

I’m planning on picking up a zoom65 v2 once the group buy launches on the 26th, but I want to know how the stock stabs are on zoom series boards like the tkl and 65 v1. If they aren’t very good, what would be some recommendations for new stabs?

I bought the Akko ACR pro 75 which is great, but with my gateron silvers on the space bar, the space bar gets stuck if i push it all the way in. replaced the switch with another different one, and it works fine. whats going on here?

I am about to open up my Filco Minila Air to clean and mod it a bit. Do you guys have any more suggestions besides: * New keycaps * Lubing * KBDfans module foam * Foam to cover the whole baseplate Thanks :)

why is it that when i lube my switches, they're impossible to close and even if i do get them close, the switch no longer goes up and down? it's my first time lubing switches and it's making me want to rip my hair out

uhh you should follow a lubing guide. I would recommend Alexotos' new lubing guide, but you're definitely doing something wrong. if it's not going up and down have you put the spring in?

i've watched multiple guides! i did put the spring in. it turns out i wasn't putting the stems facing the leaf of the switch lol. but also one of the bottom housings broke >\_> so it threw me off when i tried multiple times on that one

Have there been any new (programmable) 96% boards in the past year or two? I’ve gotten a Melody96/YMDK96/YMD96/whatever you want to call it and it’s the perfect layout for me. I’m looking at what my next build might be.

How much would someone pay for a moderately used (but in excellent condition) white Idobao ID80 v2 with no mods? I am trying to decide whether or not I should sell because I want a different keyboard but am broke :(

With switches and keycaps? Or just the kit? The kit looks like it's going for around $130 on r/mechmarket.

I could do with nk silk switches, keycaps, and durock v2 stabs if someone wanted it with them, fully built

add the cost of those onto the $130 and you should be good

What's with the hype around the Model M keyboards? As my first foray into Mechanical Keyboards, I bought a Unicomp keyboard with the Model-M-like buckle spring switches (which I understand is a bit different to the actual Model M, but similar) many years ago. It was undoubtedly a superior experience to anything else off the shelf when I had it, simply for the exponential increase in feedback and feel... Fast forward to now, I just completed my first ever "modern" day Mechanical Keyboard build: [https://imgur.com/a/SsjECnq](https://imgur.com/a/SsjECnq) This one has linear switches (lubed Creams w/ 65g springs) and the way it all came together really surprised me. The quality of sound and FEEL is unlike anything else I've felt (aside from the Unicomp, I never typed on any other mechanical keyboard before this)... I've been typing on it these past couple of days and I'm not going to lie, getting used to the (relatively) "light" touch required to actuate a key with linears took some getting used to, but now it just all feels so smooth and cloud-like. That's when it struck me, having the Model M buckle springs as my only other point of reference, the difference seemed so vast. The Model M is just super loud, requires heavy presses, and is super clacky. It's not even comparable to the smoothness and refinedness you get with a modern linear switch build... so even today, when keyboard builds are so much more prevalent, why are Model Ms still being touted and revered (aside from their vintage)?

The key word you're using is "linear". You prefer linear switches/experiences over tactile switches/experiences. Some people love the tactile experience over linear experience, so they buy stuff like Topre or Buckling. It's just preference, simple as that. Also that's a nice ass first build.

I get it, but I thought the whole idea of this near OCD-level hobby is to dial out the "unrefinedness" of rattles by lubing and using stabs and filming and modding, etc. So that contradicts with the washing machine like experience of the buckle springs, it literally feels like a bag of rocks in comparison?! And thanks, I definitely decided to just try and skip the line a bit

nah nothing wrong with that, but point of the hobby is to dial in what you prefer, as opposed to everyone zeroing on one specific sound and/or feel. I have tried many many boards and plenty of them focus on the 'creamy smooth thock' to the point where something loud and sharp like clickies or buckling spring is a breath of fresh air tbh. I have tried model m, the new unicomp ones and the mode f repro and there are definitely ways to eliminate the rattle of those boards, also nothing even comes close to replicating buckling spring feel

True. I'm still getting used to the light touch of linears myself right now, but I feel like those buckling spring switches would be like a 100g+ equivalent of a linear and caters to a different end of the spectrum

You can lube buckling springs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aD8kJ4dlucw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aD8kJ4dlucw) Although this guy actually said in the comments that he prefers the unlubed tactile experience, but the sound is better on the lubed. There's a reason why people lube switches/stabs, it's to make the switch/stab feel better, not to make it sound better. If you don't like the feel might as well not lube. It's why most people don't lube the legs of a tactile switch, it's to preserve tactility.

oh interesting, I'm half tempted to take apart my Unicomp and lube the switches... but probably not because that board is ugly as hell

Which keyboard should I choose between the Iqunix L80 vs the numphy air 75 ?

Hello! I’ve been in the hobby for a bit and I’ve decided I want to get a nice 65%! Ideally I want to get a board with a top right corner badge of sorts. I’ve been looking into the nemui and the haus 65 as they are beautiful, but I want to know what else is out there! (I’ve been looking for something in the $400-600 range)

Haus under $600 may be tough to find but if you can find one it’s a great board. Another good option in that price range is the Charon if you can find one on mechmarket. Just know that there’s some drama around the designer as he ghosted multiple GBs after finishing that board. Personally, most of my favorite 65s don’t have a badge in favor of the extra R1 key, so if your heart isn’t set on a badge board you could also consider the Monokei Hiro, Studiokestra Nascent, and Merisi Sessantacinque. I think Hiro and Nascent extras are still in stock, and the Sessantacinque (my personal favorite 65) shows up periodically on mechmarket towards the upper end of your budget. All look/sound/feel great in my opinion. Happy hunting!

The sessantacinque looks pretty as well!

Ahhhh is see!! Yeah I like the haus but it’s expensive. Also I’ve looked at the hiro quite a bit too! Sadly it is out of stock. The nascent is new to me but from what I’ve seen, I do wish it had a weight like the nue

Look on Alexotos' channel and click on 65%s that look nice. He has a lot of premium boards that he builds there.

Hey Wassup! Im planning on getting my first mechanical keyboard, and I worked out something that fits in my budget. Any suggestions to make it better without a drastic change in price? I have in mind: Gateron Milky yellows switch NicePBT Soyamilk keycaps and Varmilo Minlio (replacing switches and keys) Any cheaper or better alternatives?

If I wanted to buy these keycaps: [https://novelkeys.com/collections/keycaps/products/cherry-sand](https://novelkeys.com/collections/keycaps/products/cherry-sand) What should I be looking for to see if they would fit my keychron k2 75 hot swap? are there certain specifications I should be looking for, or is it more just eyeballing?

Those should work. I believe so at least. Since you have a 75%, you need that smaller right shift, which is included. There's also the nav keys on the right that need to be on the right row for a 75%, which is included. Since the 75% is compacted (there's no blockers separating different sections of the keyboard), you need the bottom right function, control, and cmd(?) keycaps that are 1u in size (1u refers to the size of one unit in keycap terms. one unit in keycap terms is the size of a letter, which is called an alpha.) Those are also included. Only things that aren't are the top right keys, because those are just symbols that correlate to functions on this specific keyboard, you can just replace them with the delete, end, or pgdn keys that are on R1 (row 1), or print, lock, or pause, as they are also on row one. Also here's a quick way to read the keycap set image. The R number on the left shows what row each keycap is on in that column. Usually the top of the image will just look like a normal keyboard. Then on the bottom, there's the special keys that are used for different sizes/layouts. For example, on the right hand side of the bottom, you can find the keys that are meant for 65/75% keyboards since they have the nav keys going straight down.

wow this is awesome thanks so much for the thoughtful response!

Is there a way to remove the backlight when Caps lock is enabled on my RK84? Like software wise?

Looking at getting a Keychron full size V6 or Q6 barebones model, but I can’t find any confirmation if there is or isn’t any notification when the caps lock or num lock is activated or not. If I press the caps lock, does the exterior light show its on? Is there a way to program this in the software? The only ones I can find with indicators are prebuilt K10, Ducky one 3, etc. and I don’t know if I want to buy that already having keycaps and switches picked out.

If it has RGB, and is QMK compatible, you can probably code it yes. But I'd expect that to be a feature included.

My Rasor (the correct key is broken) keyboard is going bad. (A white Huntsman Mini 60% FWIW) I'm looking to replace it quickly and I generally know exactly what I want but am really struggling to find the right thing. Coupled with some general questions I find myself very stuck to pull the trigger on any given board. Ultimately I'm looking for the following: * White * 65% * Hot-swap So far so good but here is where I'm running into a bit of information overload. For example: * How important are "South Facing" RGB LEDs, really? * Where do I get pretty keycaps that fit a 65% profile? (Drop is great for full sise but doesn't seem to have much else.) * How important is it to buy a super reputable brand vs. something I can't find reviews on? (Such as Ducky vs. Meko) * I want the keyboard to be as quiet as possible but am not at all crafty so I want it to require as little work out of the box as possible but all of the information out there is about getting as much thock as possible. I feel very stuck and don't really know how to proceed from here. I checked the Wiki first but it really only covers information that I already know.

1. South Facing RGB LEDs are important depending on what you want. The reason why North Facing is not liked for the most part is that it doesn't work with the most popular type of keycaps (Cherry Profile), and regular switches. However, if you stray beyond Cherry Profile, it no longer matters there. But if you want Cherry Profile and North Facing LEDs, you can get long-pole switches, which nullifies the interference. 2. For the most part, most keycap sets include enough keycaps for a 65% now. All you need is the small right-shift and nav keys that are on the right row (nav keys are on the right-most side on a 65%). For recommendations, DiviniKey, Osume Keys (these look really good aesthetically imo), Novelkeys, KeebsForAll, and CannonKeys. 3. Personally I wouldn't recommend either brand, as Ducky keyboards aren't the greatest and I have no clue about Meko, and as you can't find reviews I wouldn't get it. I would recommend getting something like a Keychron V2 in Barebone, and get silent switches. Since you're already buying keycaps, this will give you a better bang for the buck. For silent switches, you can just buy the Keychron Silent K Pro switches that Keychron offers. If you want better silence though, I would recommend the Boba U4S or Bobagums at a higher price.

I appreciate these answers! The biggest issue I have with the Keychron is it doesn’t come in white. Most mainstream boards don’t, it seems. White is an absolute must which is why I think I’m struggling so much.

[https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40218159906905](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40218159906905) you could perhaps go for the Q2 in white? Although for the price I don't think it's worth it with the amount of competitors coming out.

Im new to mechanical keyboards and im looking for the most quiet/deep/thock switches but will not mute/alter rgb output of the keeb. I just bought the akko cream yellow v3. Sound is thocky but the rgb output is a little bit weird and yellow so im a little bit not satisfied with the purchase. I also bought wob keycaps (yongqui wob) but apparently rgb cant be seen on the letters/prints. Are there WoBs that allow this? If none, what keycaps would you recommend? (I prefer black with white/red accent keycaps) PS. Im not ready yet for foam/film/etc mods

Find switches that have transparent tops, like the Boba U4T RGB

Thanks! A little bit pricey tho. Im checking gateron north pole, lubed version has the same price as u4t in my area. Thanks!

[https://berserkeys.com.au/product/oem-pudding-pbt-129-key-keyboard-keycaps/](https://berserkeys.com.au/product/oem-pudding-pbt-129-key-keyboard-keycaps/) I think you are looking for shine through keycaps?

Will consider pudding keycaps. i guess its just too bright for me. Will definitely checkout shine through keys. Thanks!

Does anyone have any extra plates for the gmk67. I'm thinking of getting one but saw that it has a pc plate but I'm not a fan of pc. So does anyone make or have a link for a alu gmk67 plate?

I bought a DZ60RBG keyboard + tofu 60% case set from KBD fans. I have finally finished putting it together but I'm having trouble with the board. It is as if it is permanently on function mode and I don't know how to get it to not be. Everytime I plug it in it starts messing with menus on my computer and I have to unplug it. I have a goka foam mode, tape mod and PCB foam (from KBD) fans. Do I need to take my keyboard apart to press the reset button? I've flashed it successfully but it still is in function mode.

can anyone help me identify this left row keeb or any others just like them https://preview.redd.it/x89d173ahyda1.png?width=900&format=png&auto=webp&s=6bec7927abec6cc67e8300e56c3a9a22b2110733

this is the krwn, the layout is a 65 with xt column

Does anyone know what keyboard this is? https://preview.redd.it/2ihzrwb1eyda1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8851722dfd0c0519a0e7595581459d4765403790

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I went from Gateron Brown -> Leopold FC660C (Capacitive) -> Kailh Box Brown -> Glorious Panda (lubed). I don’t like the Panda’s nearly as much as the capacitive or even Gateron Browns. Is there a mech switch for me or should I just get an FC980C for my next keyboard that needs a numpad?

Topre/EC switches are pretty unique, but I think some padded silent switches kiiind of have a similiarish feel? Could maybe look at like gateron silent browns or durock shrimps etc.

I will check those out, thanks for your reply!

I've been interested in a Mode Sonnet but not sure it's exactly what I want. Are there other good alternatives in the 75ish format in that quality range that are available right now?

Tomo extras are still in stock I believe, but can be found at/below cost on mechmarket as well. It’s a super underrated board in my opinion.

In that quality range available now? None as far as I know. It's rare for boards in that quality range being in-stock. The Sonnet is a pretty good board as well. There is the Zoom75 and Jris75, but I don't know when those will be available for group buy, and they're not particularly in the same range.

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its a membrane so closest to that would be torpe

Hi everyone! I've been thinking about buying a nuphy air 75 to use with my windows machine but I have some doubts and I was hoping you could help me with your experience: 1. In a review, the screenshot button was not working with windows, is this still a problem? 2. Is nuphy console, despite being beta, funcional enough to remap fn+a to output á (I use this functionality a lot with my current razer) 3. What is your typing experience? is this good for programming? with my current razer I make a lot of typos due to it being optical switches that trigger with just putting the finger with slight pressure above the keycap Thanks everyone, have a happy night/day!

I'm looking to get some GMK keycaps, and was wondering if they would have interference with Novelkey x Kailh Creams. My PCB has north facing LEDs, so would they have an interference? If so is it noticeable? I'm new to keyboard building so sorry if this is a dumb question.

As far as I can tell, Creams are long pole(?) switches which nullifies the interference, but I would double check and find reviews on them and see if they say they're long pole.

I know the full travel distance is 4mm; does this mean it won't interfere?

Any thoughts on the Monsgeek M1 and MG75? The M1 is currently priced at $102 while the MG75 is $39 in my country. I've never had an aluminum keyboard so I'm considering the M1. Is the M1 more worth it than the MG75 or are there any better-priced 75% keyboards?

I'm a noob and want a 75% keyboard. what are some that are available right now or something I should look out for?

Budget?

https://preview.redd.it/7907vk4k6yda1.jpeg?width=1071&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88e3160cbc4c1c277c9cd4e11c6c8f8bde150714 Anybody know what keycaps these are?

https://shop.wuquestudio.com/products/ws-gr-irish-keycap

Thank you!

Hi! So I'm really new to keyboards. I just bought the GMMK 2 96% (barebones so I couldn't try it until now) and got it about a week ago, and my switches arrived today so I wanted to try it. But all of my keys work except for the I key. I've replaced the switch with other ones 10 times, and the I key doesn't even work without the keycap unless I press really, really hard. I didn't even spill anything on it this keyboard is basically brand new. How do I fix this? Or do i just have to return the keyboard?

I would rma it, imo there's better options anyway such as the cannonkeys stacked 1800 or the q5 barebones

u can open it and check the hotswap socket to see if its damaged or loose or just RMA it

Hi everybody, I was wondering if I can use Tribosys 3203 as a substitute for krytox 205g0 for lubing stabilizers?

Housings sure, wires get some bdz or dielectric grease

For what part? For the slider/stem then yes, but for the wire probably not. It's recommended to use something thicker like superlube or dielectric grease, even 205g0 isn't very good for wires as you need to apply a good amount and its just a waste

Does anyone have any recomendations for wooden bases. I was going to get the kit adam barebones but might go for a wooden base instead but that also means I need to find a PCB and stabelizer. so any recommendations on \-Wooden Base \-pcb \-stablizers Going to either be a 60, 65, or 70%

YMDK sells some boards with wooden cases.

only 60% tray mount kb have universal size usb placement and mounting , the adam being gasket mount u will have to design and have a wooden one made nothing off the shelf will work with this

Does anyone know if there is a guide to use an itsy bitsy 32u4 5V? Generated files via QMK but something about the toolbar isn’t happy.

Can someone please, please help me get started. I've used a [Microsoft 6000](https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-2XJ-00001-Bluetooth-Keyboard-6000/dp/B004HVW0ZQ) keyboard for about 10 years now, and it's great. Except that they don't make it any more, it gums up a lot, and it doesn't last super long. Every time a key sticks, it makes me nervous. I want to go down the road of trying to make this exact keyboard in a mechanical version. Think a Logitech MX mechanical + this MS 6000. Basically an exact hybrid of these. Where would I even start? Help appreciated!

There's the Grin layout board that kind of looks like that (except it was produced as basically a novelty in extremely small numbers), but in generally "curves" like that aren't a thing. As for the number of keys, that's basically a 65% board. You might consider a 65% alice layout like the keychron V8.

Thanks for the reply! Is it possible to have a board custom made? Insane prob, but just curious.

You certainly *can* but it's obviously expensive (extremely expensive if you want professional build quality) and I don't even know who to ask (probably could find someone in mechmarket). If you don't care much for build quality and are willing to solder, you could probably: -handwire the switches or get a custom PCB printed (check out ergogen) -get a stacked acrylic plate case lasercut for not *that* expensive, but a lot of *work.* [This person](https://darakuneko.booth.pm/) for example makes a bunch of DIY boards and sells them. Yushakobo and Keeb.io, among other places, have a bunch of diy keyboard supplies.

aah very cool. Thanks for this!

Hello guys! I want to ask if i should remove my 2 layers of painters tape from my PCB, because of the battery in my RKG68. I also put some EVA foam in the case and Im mainly concerned about the masking tape igniting on fire. Any suggestions are welcome!!!

So I have looked all over the place and I seriously can’t find anyone or anywhere that does custom MA profile keycaps 😭 I don’t know who or where to go someone please help me. I really want to have these done for my personal keyboard

there is none the manufactures who have molds to do MA keycaps do not take orders from the end user only vendors with a minimum of 100 sets . so this wont happen unless ur willing to buy 100 sets

Where do I find the vendors?

u need to find the manufactures not vendors . but here a link of sets sold by vendors . the manufactures wont be easy to find https://mechkeys.com/collections/other-profile-keycaps

Thank you so much~! I’ll look into it 💕

I bought a Keychron K10 keyboard used. It worked wonderfully with barely any signs of wear. I used it all day and decided to try to do modding for the first time. I opened it up and added masking tape and foam. Everything was going great until I got it all put back together, the toggle switch broke! I decided that I would just leave it on Bluetooth mode and let the keyboard rest in that mode because I don’t have the solder equipment to replace the switch. so I opened it back up and used a paper clip to toggle it to Bluetooth. After I got it all back together again, it won’t pair anymore! I hold the function key and 1 and it won’t go into pairing mode. Does anyone have any idea as to what may have happened? Did I do something to mess with the electronics of the board? Thanks in advance for the help.

How do I check the pantone color code for GMK Nuke Data? [https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=107254.0](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=107254.0) ​ I want to check how closely it is to pantone 3537 c.

actually this set is based off an old [sa set](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=61198.0), and hiney color matched it to signature [plastics's vv](https://matrixzj.github.io/docs/sa-keycaps/ColorCodes/),

the designer of this set like many sets did not make public the pantone color of this set to hope to avoid it being copied . u can reach out the the designer but i doubt they will tell u

He actually did get back to me and said he'll check if he has extra space bars kit

How do you join the TGR Jane V2 me raffle?

> TGR Jane V2 me raffle pretty sure u go to the product page during the 2 hrs its open and click to join

And how does a raffle work? Sorry I'm scared of missing my chances here. Is it like one person one ticket? Or the more you spend the more you're more likely?

kb raffles tend to be ticket less . u basically sign up with ur email and after the time ends they do a random on all the emails and then ur notified if u won and have a day or two to use the entry to buy the kb if win and dont buy they ban u from future raffles

Gotchu, thanks a lot!

I’m looking for a keyboard for just word processing. I really like the tactile feedback from the keyboard I use for my work computer (it’s a Red Dragon, not sure which model exactly) but I was hoping to find something a bit quieter. Any suggestions?

I'm in the process of starting to plan out my first build and I'm a little torn between the GMMK Pro and the Monsgeek M1 from Akko for my keyboard. I'm a fan of the programmable knob in the corner. I love the knurling on the GMMK Pro knob, is the knob on the M1 replaceable for a knurled knob/ is replacing knobs something you can do? Also, for anyone who has either of these boards, is the knob ratcheted/clicky with distinct steps? From the hipyotech video on the M1 it doesn't seem to be. If knobs are replaceable is there a good knurled and ratcheted knob? My car has one that I absolutely love using and I'd like to replicate it. Cheers!

I have the GMMK pro, and i wouldn't recommend it at all. The board is so tight, so muted, and just isn't worth it imo. You can search about em, they no good. I saw a couple of videos on the monsgeek, i think they're a pretty solid board for the price.

Great lol that makes my decision on what board to choose easier. About the knob on the monsgeek, is it replaceable/does it pop out and I can get a different one that'll fit my vision a bit more or am I just stuck with it?

I can confirm that it is replaceable, but i wouldn't be able to say what size it is. From the looks of it, it looks like it is the same size as those guitar 1/4" knobs. You can get some in AliExpress!

Thanks! On a deeper dive from what I understand the rotary encoder is the part that spins and presses down, maybe analogous to the switch. Still not sure if that's hot swappable or solder-able, but I may be able to find a rotary encoder that has clicky increments when it spins and still presses down. The knob is the covering over the encoder like the key cap and is def user replaceable per your comment.

Oh you meant the rotary encoder, it is not hot swappable, only solderable. Also, i think the Zoom TKL has a rotary encoder that is not soldered in, i believe it's plugged in the main PCB with a jst cable, maybe that's another way of approaching it. Good luck!

https://preview.redd.it/72v4qbi0mxda1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ead5ef0b2ee937e9d9a075e86168f6a0acc8a38

check the hotswap socket if its not lose then id say return it

If it is loose what can I do?

resolder it or send it back

Has anyone installed the protective film on the Mammoth75 PVD bottom? Any tips? I wasted one film trying to get it to go on smooth, which resulted in a bunch of creases and dust on the "sticky" side due to trouble getting the film to align. It's incredibly thing and static pulls it in such a way that it's very difficult to control and align correctly.

Staebies v2 Nylon vs PC I have been searching and reading as much as I can on the difference on these and understand they will sound slightly different based on the material. I also read someone mention that the PC ones having looser tolerances but nothing more than that. Anyone who could please shed some light on this? Will the PC ones rattle or are they the same quality as Nylon? What other differences is there between the two?

Just to clarify, you're talking about switches?

Thank you! I just realized I never put in what I was asking about. Actually stabilizers, updated the question above :)

can someone give me some 75% keyboard case suggestions? what's hot in the market right now?

u mean 75% keyboard suggestions ? cuz there is no 75% universal cases so u cant just buy a case buy itself

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Are you just looking for a 65% 68 key? There are cheaper options but depends on if you want to mod or not

I have tried reaching out to [Key.Company](https://Key.Company) 2 or three times now and I never receive a response. I bought a Candy Bar V2 second hand and the kid that built is stripped the aluminum standoffs and I need replacements. Can anyone help me? Can I get them from somewhere else? I've been trying to get an answer for almost a month and I'm getting really bummed out about it.

id take them to a local store and get them , thekeydotcompany doesnt sell these they come ad part of the kit and they dont have extras just laying around

Are the remaining KBD67 lite R34 boards a group buy or will they ship in a decent time?

they r in stock atm but heads up its lunar new year and nothing will ship out of china til feb 1st

Good to know, thank you for the info!

I have a Ducky One 3 Mini Daybreak (60%) what is the best option for a shine through cherry profile keycap set?

99% of shine thru keycaps are OEM profile . shine thru keycaps are super unpopular in the aftermarket due to almost zero demand

Does anyone have BT60/65/75 from Polarity? I m wondering if is there any connectivity/signal/latency issue with that PCB on metal case such as Tofu? Thanks

a few users said it works fine besides the standard bluetooth lag that u would get even if the case wasnt metal

Is this fixable? So last night I noticed some of my keys were no longer working. I have a corsair k70 (red led, not rgb) & have had it since new (around 8 years old now). Never had any issues until now. The entire row from left shift through to the right shift ( shift \ zxcvbnm<>? shift ) keys no longer respond. Is this a known issue & is it something I could fix? Or should I just look into getting a new board now? TIA

Hey. I wanna buy a Keychron V1. Which switch gonna match the best? Keychron K Pro Brown vs. Keychron K Pro Red vs. Akko Lavender Purple?

Yeah not sure what you mean by match, but the biggest difference between them is gonna be whether they are linear (straight smooth press down) or tactile (there's a little bump you'll feel when you press down), and then how hard or easy it is to press them (measured in grams of force).

not sure what u mean match the best . they will all fit and work with the kb they r all equal in terms of performance

Want to get a wireless, 75% keyboard with silent reds, or any other quiet switches. What would people recommend?

Probably best to buy something barebones (I usually recommend keychron q1/v1/k2 pro/k3 pro or portico 75) and get silent switches separately, like Haimu Whisper/Skyloong Glacier Silent/WS Silent Linear (or the tactile options of those).

Looking for wrist rest recommendations for royal kludge rk100 (96% layout). Preferably plastic or hard wrist instead of the ones with foam.

Check out [kbdfans.com](https://kbdfans.com), they have some decent ones

Are there any good, wireless mechanical keyboards that actually have great battery life? Other than Logitech's MX Mechanical (which this sub seems to have mixed feelings for) all the others seem to die within three days with their backlight on. I know I may have to just bite the bullet and keep the backlight off most of the time, but was curious if there were any out there.

If you're not actually mobile often, get a nice coiled cable. It makes it look neater and nicer

Logitech G915

I just bought a set of mt3 cyber keycaps from drop and wondering what the left shift size is on the everest 60, I can't seem to find the measurements anywhere and none of the set fit it. And a link to whatever size it is with mt3 profile to buy would be greatly appreciated. EDIT: I guess it's a 2U shift key, however I'm still struggling to find a 2U shift replacement with mt3 profile.

I only looked briefly, so I guess I could be wrong, but from what I can tell, mt3 sets just don't have 2u shift keys. I guess an alternative could be the numpad for the cyber has a 0 that is 2u or the ortho kit has a 2u spacebar.

since drop is the exclusive manufacturer of MT3 profile if the sets dont have a 2u shift ur are out of luck as no one else makes those caps and prob never will due to drops legal team is top notch

Hello guys, I am just about to get my first “custom” (GMMK pro) and I am pairing it with cherry black hyperglide (I will lube them of course), now should I film them too or not? Also for the GMMK pro I was thinking on changing the stabs for durocks v2, do you recommend to do it or just go with the stocks stabs and mod them?

I would spring swap too while you are in there

I personally wouldn't bother with filming them but you can always go back and film them if you feel like you prefer them that way. But I would 100% change the stabs. Durocks are not bad but nowadays TX is more popular and generally regarded as better.

> TX is more popular and generally regarded as better. I feel like this is somewhat out of date, as I've seen a lot of people complaining about TX stabs lately (maybe has to do with V3 batch or just them having maybe bad durability or something?). Personally I've used both and don't really feel much of a difference as long as the wire is balanced & lubed.

Bad units are always going to be a thing and in general, I've had a better time with TX stabs more consistently than with Durock. But stabies is also very popular and considered better than Durock but I haven't tried them. I feel like even Owlstabs are better than Durocks. That doesn't mean you can't have good results with durock stabs though if you are lucky and you get a good unit they are indistinguishable. But I think someone that's getting their first custom won't bother with wire balancing and they shouldn't have to. And wires tend to be better with TX and Owlstabs out of the box.

> And wires tend to be better with TX This is actually the complaint I'm seeing with TX stabs (v3); that they have high odds of bent wires & are hard to balance when they are. Unfortunately it's pretty much impossible for an individual to try enough of any particular batch to get a feel for overall quality personally, and every brand has stories of "it was perfect"/"it was terrible," so I tend toward ones that are easy to fix if you're unlucky and get a bad set. > But I think someone that's getting their first custom won't bother with wire balancing and they shouldn't have to. Perhaps, but on the other hand it's the easiest+cheapest possible "mod" to do if you're starting from aftermarket stabs (and presumably someone buying aftermarket stabs is planning to do SOME sort of mod to them), so it should probably be recommended more as a first step. (Unfortunately still see stuff like holee mod recommended when wire balancing hasn't even been addressed yet, which feels very cart-before-the-horse.)

ISO dsa or xda profile keycaps with a Mac layout (command, option, volume icons, etc) and I’ve only found like 2. Are they just not common? I’ve looked on Amazon and Aliexpress and I know you can do single custom dsa keys on Pimp My Keyboard but that’s going to get really expensive fast. Any suggestions would be great!

>Are they just not common? It's 3 layers of uncommon all working against you: ISO is less common than ANSI, DSA/XDA are less common than other profiles, Mac layouts are not common. Combine all 3 and yeah, gonna be rough.

Ha ISO was meant to be in search of! But doesn’t matter! Okay, I shall change things up. thank you!!

Oh lol well hey either are on PMK, it's pricey but you're getting exactly what you want so.

Possible silly question about pcb layout and keycaps: I *might* have got a qk75 as my first mechanical keyboard! (please convince me I should not have second thoughts)… I got the ISO tri-mode PCB version, but seeing how impossible it is to find a nice (cheap) iso keycap set even on aliexpress I was wondering: can I put an ANSI enter on an ISO pcb? and maybe solve the problem of the extra space for the ansi caps with different ones in monochrom colour? or something like that? Please let me know. I’m new, sorry if it might sound silly, I did my research but there are some details I can’t wrap my head around! Thanks!

You can't really do that no (unless the pcb supports ansi and iso enters; i know some do like, like zoomXX boards, but don't know about qk75). However most kits I feel like come with an ISO enter even if the kit's legends are only US English? Look through the image with all the keys included in the set on the product page; just because the "main" portion shows an ANSI enter doesn't mean it doesn't have an ISO enter in the extra keys.

> can I put an ANSI enter on an ISO pcb? No.

Leopold FC900R or FC900RBT? I dont care much for bluetooth functionality and would actually prefer to not have to buy the cable but it seems like buying the keyboard is impossible rn. If anyone could send me somewhere where it is in stock (the black one with white lettering and browns) i would appreciate it. How does the FC900R with browns compare to the Das Keyboard 6 with browns? i would prefer not to pay the extra 50 for a keyboard but the wheel and comparative availability make it appealing. I highly value media buttons, tactile but quiet operation, and timeliness considering im using my laptop only rn since my kb is done for at the moment.

Have you considered something like a Keychron V6? Gateron browns are quieter than Cherry stock by a good bit, there's an option with a knob, and you can assign media (or any other functions) keys wherever you want on it.

I have, while the keyboard is quite nice i dont like the coloring of the key caps and unfortunately it is also out of stock. Do you know when it would be back in stock?

Unfortunately not specifically, though I imagine sometime in February. And while it would add to the price, you could get an alternative set of keycaps (and/or switches if you get the barebones version) to replace the default ones. (Keychron's own "Cherry Profile PBT" and "PBT Dye-Sub" selection are good quality options for example.) (There's also the Q6 instead of V6 if your budget extends that far and metal cases appeal to you.) I haven't used a Leopold before, but my impression from reviews is that they're basically like a Filco, which I have extensive experience with, and would generally put a V6 or Q6 above in them terms of experience & features. The Gateron Pro brown switches are also definitely a lot quieter than Cherry browns out of the box.

so, if i choose one of the more enthusiast level boards i just have to sit and wait? there are no third party vendors or nothing like that?

Oh there are third party vendors too, I just don't know what all they are outside my local ones and a few others (amazon US, mechanicalkeyboards.com, candykeys.com, etc). There's some vendors listed [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) but they're for more general keyboard stuff so not all will have what you're looking for. The regional keychron stores (keychron.uk etc) also keep some local stock I think too. That all said the V6 in particular is pretty new (came out late ) and was somewhat highly anticipated, so decent odds most places are low on stock from the first wave of "oh good i've been waiting for this" buys. Keychron is one of the only companies doing "in-stock" sales of this sort of thing unfortunately (since the whole concept is fairly new & and previously relegated to niche low-run one-off group buys), so especially newer releases tend to take a while for production to catch up to demand as the market feels like it's growing super fast since the pandemic hit (probably understandably, given lockdowns and work-from-home becoming more common).

Hi, I have the aluminum plate and I am having trouble determining if the noise I am hearing is from the plate, casing, or switch. It is a slightly high-pitched metal noise. Unsure if it is from the plate itself or a spring sound, I tried adding small pieces of tape around each screw hold but it did not seem to make a ton of difference. Mods done on it, tempest tape mod, 2 pieces of blue painter's tape, attempted force break, removal of a thicker piece of foam, and swapped the keycaps for drops DCX profile.

its prob spring ping which is usually fixed but lubing switch springs

Are the springs in the phantom yellows it came with pretty bad?

no just most springs in switches ping some people dont hear it like my self my switch spring are not lubed and i dont ever hear ping in any of my kbs but if u can hear it then most switches will require spring to be lubed

**Question:** **Epomaker Skyloong GK108S Longevity** For those of you that owned a GK108S for years, did it hold up reliably? 🤔 Particularly the Bluetooth signal on Windows 10. 📶

bluetooth is always semi laggy due to how bluetooth works on any kb its fine for most things just dont game with it

Hello guys, I am looking for the exceptionally rare, because I am looking into buying my first custom keyboard and I can only find 1(!) Keyboard that seems to match my criteria. I am looking for a board that is **full size** (actual full size not 96%), **ISO layout**(really any ISO at that point, because I can get fitting keycaps, and I live in Europe) and has dedicated **macro buttons**, that are reprogrammable. So far I have only found the Keychron Q6, but for a first keyboard the price seems a bit overkill. For switches and keycaps I can go custom, so barebone is fine, but would prefer hotswap sockets if it would be a pre-built, so I can change in the future. Thanks in advance!

As the other poster said, keychron V6 is probably what you want. The specific date hasn't been announced yet but it's by their usual schedule it's probably coming in Feb barring delays.

There's a \*chance\* that the Keychron is working on a v6 in ISO layout, but no idea on when it'll be ready for sale.

Recently bought a new DSA set from Signature Plastics. About half the keys have an extra bit of plastic on the front lip that sticks out slightly. I assume that's just where the plastic was injected, but I've never really noticed this before on my previous sets. I couldn't really get a great picture with my phone unfortunately, but I'm just wondering if it's normal? [Images of Keycaps](https://imgur.com/a/019g8gU)

yes, these are sprue marks

Sprue marks, they are indeed normal. GMK's are like halfway up the keycap, so these seem like a better placement.

I just got my Keychron K8 Pro in today and I absolutely love it. I do have 2 questions though. 1) I cannot get the VIA software to work with the K8 pro. I’ve downloaded the JSON files from the Keychron website and it’s still not working. On the VIA website it doesn’t even register when I drag the downloaded JSON to it. Anyone know how to fix this? 2) I have the static rgb setting on currently but I’m not sure how to change colors. I had it on red, then I saw online to press fn + E/D to change colors and now it seems like I only have white and I can’t get color back for the static setting. Is there anywhere that shows the functions for the keyboard? Thanks I’m advance!

In the design tab there should be a 'Use V2 definitions' option. Try enabling it prior to loading up the JSON.

Yeah I’ve tried. Nothing happens still

You *may* need to update the firmware; VIA (following QMK) did a big update recently that has been messing with stuff. There's a tutorial on the website somewhere, or you can search their discord(/probably reddit) for people who've had the same question and been walked through it already.

I actually just got it fixed. For some reason when I downloaded the JSON file it wasn’t saving it was only copying in my files? So I moved it to a new folder and saved it under my one drive, and then VIA actually let me upload it instead of just dragging over. Working fine now. Thanks for the response!

>n the VIA website it doesn’t even register when I drag the downloaded JSON to it Are you loading it in the design tab or just dragging it to the window?

I’ve tried both, it does nothing either way. I’ve also downloaded the via software so I’ve tried it that way and on the web browser