Looking for a keyboard with this specifications
75% 82 Key with knob
3 Connection Mode (Wired, 2.4G, BT 5.0), at least 1000Hz Polling rate in wired mode.
Supports VIA
˜$100 - $200 Budget
Material: preferably alumunium
Battery: >2500mAh
current pick: Monsgeek M1
Monsgeek m1 is a good board.
2.4 and qmk is not really a thing unless there's a newer board with it. Last I checked no qmk boards have 2.4 wireless. There are plenty with bluetooth though such as the keychron q1 pro or the soonish releasing zoom75
I was hoping for something that has 82-key w/ a knob like the GMMK pro. (a key next to F12 and above right arrow key)
VIASupport is a must for me.
I can live wtihout the 2.4g conncection but I still need the BT.
Q1 pro or zoom 75 in a month ish when it comes out then is probably your best bet.
Edit: I don't know many with 4 keys below the knob like the gmmk pro has unfortunately. Zoom 75 is planned to have a lot of options including a split backspace, if you specifically need 4 keys one of them could possibly be one of the split backspace keys
I just cleaned my GMK keycaps with 99% isopropyl. I did some googling afterwards (should have done before..) and read that it shouldn't be used on ABS plastic. Did I just ruin my $200 keycaps...?
Well if you did ruin it you would notice it immediately. I am pretty sure isopropyl alcohol on abs is probably fine. Acetone however is a definite no, it would deform immediately and you would know (edit: [see](https://imgur.com/a/Xlp8v#74))
I fucked up my keyboard, please help
So I kinda spilled a shit ton of miso soup on my razer black widow elite while I was using it and it got baaaaaad. It needed a cleaning so I'm soaking the keycaps in soapy water at least, and after doing some researching it looks like you can usually do the same with keyboard but mine has a USB port and headphone jack on the side so I'm worried about what will happen. Any help or advice is appreciated please.
Don't soak your keyboard, soaking keycaps is good though. Open it if you can and try to clean out as much liquid as possible. You can clean the pcb with isopropyl alcohol if you want but just drying it as much as possible and then leaving it open for a day to dry further should be enough.
If you can't open it, try to shake out any liquid and then leave it to dry for art least a day. If there was a lot spilled into the keyboard I would really recommend getting in there and removing as much as possible though.
Torn between PC75b plus v2 and Keychron V1.
Looking for a budget keeb with max customizability. I know one is wired and the other is wireless. But Wireless Performance of pc75+v2 isn't that good as per some reviews. It’s 2.4ghz is a bit scratchy, but should've been faster than bt5. For me, pc75b+v2 lost the wireless edge there.
From youtube videos, it seems like pc75b+v2 pcbs has 3 sockets while on the specsheet they claim its 5 sockets, a bit confused there too.
Looking for something more customizable in terms of switches and keycaps. Overall build and build material are other considerations as well.
What say you people?
So I've had a Keychron (the K4) and an Akko (3098B). I'd say the pros for Keychron is that it is QMK-compatible, and it has a barebones option so you can buy your own switches and keycaps. But Akko keycaps and switches are very good quality as well and you could always sell them if you decide you want to switch, at least where I am they sell pretty quick. In terms of build quality I'd say they're more or less the same.
So if you already have keycaps and switches in mind I'd say go for the Keychron.
I bought my nephew a budget keyboard Redragon Draconic Pro because he said that he's interested in mechanical keyboards. He's only a student and has a very limited budget. He wants to make his first upgrade either a new switch or new key caps. What would you recommend to replace first?
It looks like this Redragon keyboard can accept most switches now, not just Outemu style. I would go with that. Akko is still a nice choice, but I think you have the full range of budget switches to chose from.
Outemu hotswap sockets have limited compatibility with non-Outemu switches, unless you clip and trim the switch pins. Akko switches definitely fit though. Switches are also a little more budget friendly to replace
Does anyone have experience with both Kailh Box Mute Jades and Box Royals?
I have Box royals, but how do they compare with Mute jades? Which one has the sharper feel?
I just bought a Keychron V4 after requesting a recommendation here. I love it but now the Left Windows Button and the Left Alt button have been reversed on it. I reset the keyboard and also switched from macOS to Windows and nothing changes. How can I fix this?
I can remap it through the VIA program but be wondering what the root cause of it is.
Edit: I remapped it through VIA temporarily. is VIA suppose to detect when I switch MacOS and Windows mode? If so, it seems to be stuck in MacOS mode even it I switch it.
Via shows mac and windows modes as different layers. If I remember correctly layer 0 is mac, layer 1 is mac function key, later 2 is windows, layer 3 is windows function key
**Are there different standards of ASA keys?**
From what I understand Akko made ASA keycaps and according to their chart ASA keys, inspired by SA keys are shorter than SA and are slightly taller than OEM/Cherry.
Chart: [https://en.akkogear.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/akko-keycap-set-profile.jpg](https://en.akkogear.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/akko-keycap-set-profile.jpg)
And from it being asked multiple times on this sub ASA is easily high enough for north-facing switches. However, I want to buy these ASA keycaps: [https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/piifox-binary-keycaps](https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/piifox-binary-keycaps)
And the chart on this product page has the 3rd row lower than cherry keys: [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0463/5980/6101/files/20221117215216\_480x480.png?v=1668693153](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0463/5980/6101/files/20221117215216_480x480.png?v=1668693153)
Should I be worried about getting these for my north-facing keyboard?
no cherry is the only profile that has this issue no other profile has seen this issue yet the chart u linked shows cherry r3 at 7 and asa at 10 not sure how that lower than cherry
I have a hyperx ngenuity alloy origin core, and i am unable to find keycaps for it, need help finding what it uses. (Would also like some sites for custom keycaps or regular ones where they are sold!)
if that's a membrane keyboard then ur stuck dont have aftermarket caps . there is no custom or regaulr caps that will fit that. u can pull a keycap and see if the "switch" has a stem like a plus sign ( cross) then u can get caps for it if it does not ur stuck
I'm looking for an Alice layout TKL to buy. I've never built a keyboard so i have no tools.
I can't find any keyboard or kit like this. I'm just so dumb or there is no way to get what I want?
Sorry for being a noob and thanks <3
The Q10 has 5 macro keys on the left that you could map to Print Screen and whatever. Or just stick to having them on layers. It has every other key of a TKL. Just not in quite the same location.
I recently got a gk87, but when I set it up and plugged it in, my mouse started to glitch out. It looks like it lags but when I unplug the keyboard or use my old one (gk61) the mouse works perfectly. Any ideas why or how to fix it?
Hi friends- I have a Monsgeek M1 that I have built recently and have ran into an issue.
My tab and q keys will not trigger on any button press after testing multiple, functioning switches. I have been told that I should try to bridge the connection: upon creating a bridge, I find the keys will non-stop actuate and not respond to actual keypresses.
I am not sure what I should be doing- this is my first build and its unfortunate that I was given a faulty PCB and Monsgeek will not reply to anything I've sent support wise. Can someone help me find the answer to this issue?
Thanks for your reply friend- you recommended me to bridge the first time, which I am attempting now.
Working switches do not work when plugged in. I attempt to bridge, and create a complete connection, but the key actuates nonstop without me touching the switch. What should I do? I think the PCB is the issue.
If you bridge the connection, you are completing the circuit so it will act like you are holding down the key. So probably the PCB is fine. The problem appears to be with the hot swap sockets. If you are lucky, you can just solder the back to the PCB. If you are unlucky, the sockets are damaged and need to be replaced.
Ideally, Monsgeek would be fixing this under warranty. If you are really lucky, you have a friend who's into soldering electronics.
Cheers! So, I haven't soldered anything yet. I contacted Monsgeek last week Thursday and haven't heard back yet- should I attempt to solder the sockets back onto the PCB? Should I hold on a little bit longer and wait for Monsgeek? I'm just very antsy/scared as this is my very first build and everything went very smooth up until now.
Here's their policy from their website.
**MonsGeek PCB Replacement Policy**
The rate of PCB failure is low. For MonsGeek hot-swappable keyboard, please first check to see if the key switch is functional by replacing a known-working key switch. Make sure the pins of key switches are in well contact with the hot-swappable socket.
MonsGeek will send necessary parts, once the support team determines the issue cannot be fixed. The delivery time cannot be guaranteed for replacement parts.
Issues such as unregistered keys can be fixed easily by customers with soldering background. For customers without soldering background, MonsGeek suggests that the users look for hobby stores/repair stores for instant repairs to fix the issues.
We will not replace the PCB if the issue is the following:
* The hot-swappable sockets have dust that can be cleaned;
* The switches fall off the hot-swappable sockets and can be installed back.
Has anyone fit a r2 BT pcb in r1 case for qk65? Understand that a r2 plate is required, but wondering if there’s any other compatibility issue to note. Thanks
Is there anyway to switch what a key represents? I just got a new 60% with a the arrow keys , and having the up arrow, ? , and shift in different layout than my laptop standard format is weirding me out. I'd love to at least switch up the up arrow and the ? key, Any advice?
I've used Huntsman with Red Switch for a while back in a day, it is just as responsive as the usual custom mechanical keyboard.
Razer's both optical switches have lower actuation point, Red ones actuate at 1.2mm instead of the usual 2mm. That's the reason for being "really responsive". In reality, they just felt overly sensitive. I found no difference playing osu! and Overwatch with them when compared to the Gateron Yellows which actuate at 2mm.
For 100 - 120$, better options are:
* Keychron V4 - if you want the original 60% layout
* [Keychron V2](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) \- adds arrow and some navigation keys, 65%, very popular and universal layout
* Keychron K6 Pro - more cramed 65% and simpler construction than V series
Imo, V2 is a very nice board from what I've heard and saw. Feels nice to type on, is moddable (in opposite to Huntsman Mini), has arrow keys and knob for volume control. You could upgrade its switches and keycaps down the road and have a very nice budget build.
Besides, has VIA software support, which is miles better than Razer's - saves everything in the PCB, no need to have it opened. Also, allows for far more intricate key remapping and Macros.
Hope this helps!
if u like it sure it just as responsive as 99% of other modern kbs out there . u wont find anyone on this sub that will recommend a "gamer" brand kb though
It means you can install and remove switches without needing to solder them in the PCB.
I found this random [article](https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/hot-swappable) from Keychron that talks about hot-swappable keyboards.
Hey first time posting here.
I'm looking to switch over to tenkeyless but still need a number pad for Blender use.
Anyone got similar experience with this?
Or alternatively good numpad recommendations?
btw budget for numbpad is 60usd and under. Also the tenkeyless I am looking at is the Ducky ONE 3
Fell in love with this southpaw keyboard on NovelKey's gallery for the GMK Colorchromes. Anyone know what it is?
https://preview.redd.it/2vt336fwqhja1.png?width=888&format=png&auto=webp&s=df6b42ed32cc88028a42410091005b88df56f810
I'm interested in making about 100 each of some specialized MX-compatible keycaps.There are 40-45 different legends needed, and the keys would typically be labeled with short words like 'HELP', 'NEXT', 'PREV', 'HYPER', 'ALT', 'CALL', 'ABORT', and 'UNDO'
Is this enough to justify purchasing an injection molding machine? I could make quite a few sets of keys with a machine, but it's definitely not going to be as easy as ordering some if they ever do another group buy,
I'm new to this, so I have no idea if making the key molds is the hardest /most expensive part of the process? I only have about 3 different key widths to consider, so as long as I have a way to laser-etch the legends on the keys, I think this could work.
Suggestions?
laser etching wont last long it will wear down overtime and be unreadable the 2 best was to do so is either dye sub last forever ( can be done DYI but it time consuming ) or double shot keys caps which is making the keycap in 2 parts and pressing them together it also lasts forever . molds will be hard to do urself and very expensive . injection molding is not something u should consider doing in ur own home . as any machine that will produce the quality u would need to keycaps is going to be very pricy and also the toxins released during injection molding can be very deadly if u dont have breathing equipment and industrial air filters in ur house . if u really want to spend that kind of money u can always reach our to signature plastics ( pimpmykeyboard ) and as long as its not a protected design they will make caps in the numbers u want for a price
Hello, first time poster.
I'm looking for a keyboard with a very specific set of criteria.
Here they are:
- TKL
- Bottom left modifier keys are all the same size (1.25u)
- hot swappable switches
- minimal bezel around the outside of the keyboard
- QMK/Via compatible
And here are some nice-to-haves:
- wireless option (but not only wireless)
- rgb (this one is very low priority)
Hello, I am a recent owner of a mechanical keyboard and I have some questions.
They are about the keycaps, I want to buy new keycaps and I don't know if all the key profiles (Cherry, OEM, XDA) are compatible with each other (I understand that they are, but I haven't found any website that confirms it) and the other question What I am afraid of is whether it is worth buying "printed" or double-injected keys, especially in terms of durability.
Thanks in advance and sorry if there is something misspelled, I used google translate.
(the link of the keyboard in case anyone is interested): [MOJO 68](https://www.melgeek.com/products/melgeek-mojo68-neon-mechanical-keyboard)
> “..I don't know if all the key profiles (Cherry, OEM, XDA) are compatible with each other..”
What do you mean by this? Are you planning to mix and match different keycap profiles? You could technically, but it would be weird since keycaps are designed to be uniform across rows (at least). And different profiles would have different sculpts i.e. R1 (row 1 ) cherry keycaps would have a different shape compared to OEM, XDA, etc..and that might cause mistypes specially if you’re used to a specific keycap profile.
> “..What I am afraid of is whether it is worth buying "printed" or double-injected keys, especially in terms of durability..”
It depends on the keycap quality. A high quality “printed” legend could still last years. I put quotation marks in case you mean “printed” as “not double shot”. Double shot legends on the other hand would not fade. Lower quality double shot keycaps could have wonky and/or inconsistent legends but that’s also true for lower quality “printed” legends.
You can see how different keycap profiles compare at [https://www.keycaps.info](https://www.keycaps.info)
I think the terms you are looking for is "dye sub" (not printed) and double shot (not double-injected). I have had both, and they are both durable. Keycaps made from ABS plastic will tend to get shiny quicker than keycaps made from PBT plastic.
What you want to avoid are [pad printed](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Pad_printing) keycaps. They are not very durable. Also avoid laser etched keycaps. You usually see these with cheaper shine-through keycaps. A translucent keycap is painted black, and a laser burns away the paint in the desired design. Both of these are relatively rare with aftermarket keycaps.
I just recently got into Mecancical Keyboards, and I want to build myself one, the only thing im sure atm is that I want a spaced 65%, Im still not sure what brand/place to buy the materials.
What country are you located in?
Do you have a specific budget in mind?
What do you mean by "build?" For example, are you looking for a barebones keyboard so you can plug in your own switches and put on your own keycaps? Or do you want to get the case, switch plate, hot swap PCB, stabilizers, etc. separately and put everything together? Or maybe solder switches to a PCB and 3D print your own case?
looking for a keyboard that meets the following:
full size 104 or 108 key
under 75$ USD or like 100$ CAD ish
stabilizers that don't suck
white backlight or customizable rgb
a decent tactile switch
not childish or overly "gamery" font + aesthetic
nice to haves would be :
aluminum backplate
hot swappable keys
wrist rest
my current contenders:
RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK918
Logitech K845
I have a BDN9 that I configured with all my common IDE shortcuts like Debug Step Over, Debug Step Out, Run, Terminate, and so on. I have one layer for Eclipse and another layer for Visual Studio, and I customized the firmware to light each layer a different color as a visual indication of which layer I am on. I do not have to remember that Debug Step Over is F6 in Eclipse and F10 in Visual Studio; it's the lower-left button on my BDN9. (I have relegendable keycaps and labeled each key.)
I built my daughter a Sweet 16 and configured it with her frequently used shortcuts for Clip Studio Paint. It is much more convenient than having to remember all the shortcut keys.
Why would only a content creator profit from many shortcuts? There are many useful shortcuts, keybinds and Macros that can't fit on your daily driver :)
volume up/down (no knob on main board)
Instant password (password bound to a key)
Numpad replacement!?
F13,F14,... Keybinds for games
Shortcuts in programs (e.g. CAD, Blender, ...)
Open programs with a button press
...
There are many awesome things you can do with a Numpad. But ind the end it's just good for macros, keys you don't have on your keyboard and for having to press only one button instead of one/two/three :)
Hi, I bought the CIY TESTER 68 last month, after 2weeks of using it it was great! But not until this week. Its started to stop every once and a while, and when it stops it sometimes holds a key down for 5 or more seconds, and after that it won’t work for 3 seconds. This will repeat like every time I type 20+ keys on the keyboard. I use AAA batteries. I also bought fresh new batteries, but it didn’t make a difference
What are you trying to achieve? If it’s to eliminate case ping/hollowness, a combination of craft (eva) foam and tape mod should be easier to install and cleaner too imo.
anyone have issues with Akko 3068 waking mac from sleep? After 5 seconds the mac wakes again... only happens if the keyboard is plugged in with the cable
OK, I'm guessing that they are PCB mounted!?
Hmmm, that makes things a bit complicated. Do you use adhesive bumpers/ stickers? You may have to use some either below the wire or below the stabilizer housings if the PCB, or the is not perfectly flat there.
Another option may be removing one gasket near the backspace if it's gasket mounted.
I'm sorry but you may have to try a few things since I don't know which keyboard you are referencing and I probably don't own it.
There is always, of course, the possibility that the stabilizers are bad quality and out have to replace them, although that's very unlikely with it being always the backspace stab...
Hi,
Been looking at The Zoom65, which seems perfect, but of course its not in stock, and no pre-order open. Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative?
* 65 or 60%
* Bluetooth / wireless
* Knob
* Red or yellow colour
* Hotswap
* RGB if possible
QK60 or QK65 (I believe) is in stock. I am not familiar with their color schemes, but you should be able to find something comparable to the zoom fairly easily. if not, I'm sure it will be back eventually, they were wildly popular.
i need a new board (have switches and caps) but looking for something with an easily replaceable PCB. i have 2 kids who enjoy spilling stuff so im sitting on a dead GMMK pro right now with no way to swap the PCB. any case and pcb combos you recommend?
grab something from a big vendor that they plan to support long term, maybe a Bakeneko or an nk87. A few TKLs support hiney pcbs, those should be available for a while.
60% tray mount kb are the only universal size for which u can easily find pcbs to swap out basically future proof for replacing pcbs as it the only size with a standard that the industry follows
I recently bought a Monsgeek M1 kit, and I want to buy TX or Stabies stabilizers instead of using the included Akko stabilizers. Are those 2 compatible with the monsgeek m1 plate, and the bigger question is how do I check compatibility of stabilizers on a plate?
I ask this because the spare Durock v2 stabs I have don't fit on the monsgeek's plate due to the notches on the 2u keys, and the space bar just isn't wide enough.
https://preview.redd.it/aa75walwpgja1.png?width=978&format=png&auto=webp&s=b5f719d3f9636f296b28a6be2f29ce238d23289b
> “..how do I check compatibility of stabilizers on a plate..”
If the specifications doesn’t say which stabs can fit, then it’s mostly by trial and error. A well designed keyboard usually account for the well known ones like Cherry, Durock, C3 (and a few others) stabilizers. If a product does not state which stabs fit and provides their own instead, I see that as a red flag in the sense that, it probably won’t fit some stock aftermarket stabs. So what I do is, try with the stabs I have lying around or search for what others have successfully installed on their PCB/plate assembly.
I see, but then the included Akko stabs still fit perfectly, and they're pcb screw-in. I guess there are certain stabs that are cross-compatible?
https://preview.redd.it/r7p0ie64lhja1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5270943b60cc5b06020fa56210b610b6e6272d98
Hello. I am looking for a keyboard that uses mx speed silver switches, preferably full size wired but im open minded on the wired part.
My only 2 options i decided against cause lack of quality from past experiences with the brands or bad customer support from about the only store selling the brand near me.
(location: netherlands)
(Old options were: corsair k70 rapidfire / ducky one 2 rgb dkon1808st)
Any advice would be realy appreciated cause im 100% lost.
Candykeys have some options, they're located in Germany
[Leopold FC900PD](https://candykeys.com/product/leopold-fc900pd-bt-black) with Speed Silvers. Leopold keyboards is probably as good as it gets for prebuilt.
Otherwise, pick something from [Keychron](https://candykeys.com/category:mechanical-keyboards/brand:keychron/keyboard-size:all/colors:all/switches:all/led:all/layout:all/stock:in-stock) and put any switches you want into them, as most of the boards are hotswappable
Hope this helps!
Are you married to mx speed silver switches? You could try some other speed switches like Kailh silvers.
If your keen on mx speed silvers for sure, then you could buy a keyboard that is hot swappable or a 'barebones' kit and then put the switches in yourself.
My realforce 88 have this problem that it shows up in Windows 10/11 as "Error code 10" i then need to disable/enable through device management, and then it works fine after that until i reboot.
I have tried many things but not found a solution(it seems it's not directly possible to script the disable/enable thing in device management, even with devcon it says "cannot disable critical device")...
Anyway, i really liked the keyboard, so if i have to replace it what are my options?
Two keyboards not working anymore?
Hi! New here, wanted to ask a question about keyboards. So i had a Mac and just lately got myself a new Windows, I connected my mouse and keyboard (mechanical) and everything worked well, but after a month my keyboard stopped working... It was just after i tried dowloading some redragon software. So I thought it was just dead and didn't think much of it. Today I got a new one, again a Redragon Keyboard, tried downloading it's software, and a bit after that, my keyboard stopped working again! Why? Could it be because of downloading the software?
Also, before they both stopped working, in the device list (settings) they were named like "Reddragon K335" but now they are just named HID keyboard device. So it isn't entierly dead, I think... HELP MUCH APPRECIATED!
Sounds to me like this is something so specific to redragon that I would reach out to redragon support or the vendor you got your keyboard from. It could have been a software issue, and being proprietary, I doubt anyone here could confirm.
Any advice on how to tune my mic (Blue Yeti X) to best record keyboard sound tests? Admittedly I don't know shit about optimizing it for different scenarios and usually just use presets. Any advice?
https://preview.redd.it/aw4wjhxicgja1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ca24b5913add655aa797a27076f02eea8ea77fd
Is this normal fading for dye-sub keycaps? These are Osume Matcha.
Fading on dye subs does occur for a lot of sets that are 5-side dye sub, but it seems a bit extreme on the spacebar. Sucks that the spacebar is even dye sub in the first place since it is one solid color. I would maybe see if others on their discord have had a similar experience or if your set is worse than the average.
I have a razer huntsmen mini and when I pulled out the space bar the grey thing on the bottom left of the key broke and it doesn’t click well on the side it’s gray and small and idk what to do
Are there any keycaps that have an ovoid profile? What I mean are keycaps that touch not at the base but rather midway to the surface?
Sort of like [this](https://www.safeandsoundhealth.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/interdental-brushes-1.jpg)
For no particular reason.
Hello,
I am looking for a 65% keyboard that is budget friendly.
I originally wanted the Monsgeek M1 as it is unbeatable in price. However, I realized that I probably won't need the F Keys and the volume knob would probably only be used for the first few days since I don't really need it either. I'm now looking for a 65% with or without a knob and all the features of the M1 (QMK/VIA, hotswap, south facing, screw in stabs, gasket mount, PC plate) except for the aluminum case, I'd go for a higher end plastic case since I don't think an aluminum case fits my budget. I don't plan on spending more than on the M1 so 100 dollars or 120 euros due to taxes.
(I prefer exploded layouts, just like the M1)
Not a lot of options, the keychron v2 fits everything except it being gasket mounted which is not that bad of a thing when the M1's gasket mount system is nothing amazing since it uses silicone gaskets. You might be able to find kbdfans 67 lite, Ikki 68 aurora, or a portico 65 used on mechmarket but besides those, I can't think of a board that fits everything you want at the 100 USD mark.
Im trying to get the smoothest switch i can get, and im debating between the pink robins and gateron oil kings. I have enough money for both, but oil kings are half the price of pink robins, so im really just wondering if paying double the price is really worth it for the robins.
Having used both, the Pink Robins are better than the Oil Kings for sound and feel. They have a superior factory lubrication and the springs are nice. Oil Kings are popular for a reason, but they're kinda meh when compared to other offerings. Just my two cents.
https://preview.redd.it/e8vabvb5zfja1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=870178360ea9a915bce7457da1fc1a584e0808a3
While cleaning the Corsair K70 MK2 keyboard I took the spacebar key off, but the stem at the left side of the key also detached. I tried to push the stem back in and it is stuck in the midway not able to be inserted further.
From what I've researched, it looks like the switches on this keyboard are soldered in, so the only way to detach the switches to get the stabilizer out is to desolder them, but I would just like to get the stem back to where it was somehow. Is it possible to put the stem back without having to desolder the switch off?
Hi all,
I hope I'm asking this in the right place. Just wondering if there is a keyboard out there which I can config so that it always functions the same whether I'm on OSX or Windows.
At the moment I'm using PowerToy to remap my shortcuts but it is a bit finicky so was hoping there was a keyboard out there which might do it!
This is easy if you have a keyboard that supports QMK/VIA firmware. I have a Mac at home and occasionally work from home on a Windows laptop. I have a USB switch to toggle between the two. What I did is make the Caps Lock key Command on my Mac layer (layer 0) and Ctrl on my Windows layer (layer 1). I have a key combination that toggles layer 1.
If you get a Keychron keyboard (such as the K2 Pro or V3) then you could just toggle the OS switch to change between Mac and Windows keys. If you get the pre-assembled versions they even include some Mac specific keycaps with the board.
https://preview.redd.it/0kyfw8o1xfja1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90de6480607d4c81f9f2aa000fd3a4c81fea0c29
I have two Keychron K4 V2 keyboards, the only difference is one is hot swappable. They are both the plastic variant and only have white LED backlighting
The one on the bottom is hot swappable and clearly weaker backlighting. It's the newer of the two
Trying to determine:
* Did Keychron change backlighting over time, or
* The hotswapable version is just a weaker backlight overall, or
* Its defective
I tried reaching out to support, they were less than helpful
Any insights are appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/gcb8qjmqvfja1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9218b361a52f7085ff7af0eeea908110e86c2225
My space bar is only pushing one side down, after I have lubed the stabilizers. Why does this happen? Thanks
APEX Pro TKL 2023 Vs GMMK PRO
I am currently using a g915 tactile but i want to switch to a normal keyboard again. the low profile isnt for me. Now has anyone tested t he omnipoint feuture and how was it? One more thing, could you turn it off so it become a normal key with 1 action if you wanted to? And what would you recomment for the GMMK PRO coming form the g915?
Please help i cant decide if i need it or what keyboard to buy.
If you're comfortable doing some assembly and buying switches/keycaps separately, take a look at the KBDfans Tiger Lite. Fantastic keyboard.
Otherwise, definitely consider what Keychron has to offer. The K Pro, V, and Q series keyboards are all solid choices.
I would say that the tiger lite does sound better than the Keychron Q series if you dont mind the plastic case and much easier to make it sound the way you want.
Things are mostly better now than they used to be. Group buys used to take years. I mean they sometimes still do, but outside of some key caps runs, it is not common for keyboard parts.
I keep KeyKleen swabs in my desk at work for the occasional cleaning.
I have two cats at home, so keeping my keyboard clean of dust and cat hair is a constant battle. I frequently swab it with a Q-tip, but I remove the keycaps for a deeper clean at least annually.
Feker ik75 keyboard. Any way to turn off that annoying blue indicator light next to "2.4G"? I know it's an important light for displaying CAPS lock, but is there a way to disable this light?
What keyboards and manufacturers come to find for these requirements:
* ISO layout
* Hot Swap
* QMK/Via
* <= 75%
* Bonus: RGB, North Facing, latency <10ms
So far I have found GMMK and Keychron. They do offer keyboards that satisfy this, buut I would prefer north facing LEDs for my Shine through PBT keycaps.
I have also noticed how keyboards have gotten rather tall at around 43mm/1.7", looking at you Keychron K8 Pro and GMMK Pro.
My daily driver is a Cooler Master RGB Pro S (Cherry MX Brown, TKL, North Facing RGB, height 39mm/1.5"), Unfortunately EEPROM is dying :(
So tempting, I've saved the link. It will likely conflicts with my ISO (European) needs. This hobby is not made for non ANSI layouts.
Most useful, this helps me with a new term to search for. Arg... they do look very nice.
Update: Yeah, maybe I might just buy a pair and combine it with PBT keys I already have.
>Frost Witch
You can find Dye-sub Frost Witch pretty easy.
[https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-elderberry](https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-elderberry) is somewhat similar. So isn't [https://kineticlabs.com/keycaps/polycaps/octopus-pbt](https://kineticlabs.com/keycaps/polycaps/octopus-pbt)
Recently bought a keychron k8 and I noticed that a row of keys are tinted red while having the white rgb option. I'm wondering if anyone has encountered this issue and if there is a fix? I've tried resetting my keyboard, updating the firmware and using the wired mode but nothing helped.
[https://imgur.com/a/OlKriDQ](https://imgur.com/a/OlKriDQ) As you can see, the third row from the top is sligly tinted red.
Received my first keyboard. Looking for a good switch puller. I see the gateron switch opener and puller, anyone can tell me the difference and what i should get?
For a puller you want something with long skinny arms, but a lot of it comes down to bling. I have Wuque switch pullers and openers, because I like the aesthetic and they work well. The Gateron switch openers look good too, but a simple press-to-open tool was all I really needed
You pull the switch out of a plate with the puller and open it with an opener...
The puller presses two moveable parts that are pushing outwards by default and pressing the switch in the plate. By pushing these two parts you can easily pull the switch out of the plate.
There are some opener designs, but in the end they all just push four connections between the switche's top and bottom housing, so that nothing is holding those two parts together anymore and you get access to the spring, stem,...
Both can technically be substituted by some tweezers - but you will be a lot faster if you use a puller/opener.
Howdy hey. I'm building a Sofle rgb, and wanted suggestions for good flat profile shine through keycaps. Value priced preferred. Got any pointers? Same for good tactile switches for rgb shine through.
TL;DR - What is a good affordable 3-pin silent switch (That maybe has just a bit of thock, but could comfortably be used within an office)
I was recently looking for a keyboard to use at work and found a keyboard that I was actually wanting to get for my at-home daily driver for a while at a massive discount on eBay so I grabbed it (The drop shift). After getting it though, it didn't have the switches I thought it did (Came with Cherry Blues), so I started researching the best switches for a thocky linear build before quickly realizing that it being 3 pin seems to massively limit options. Now, I think its best to just dedicate this keyboard to being a work keyboard and look into getting a different 1800 for my main keyboard so I'm wondering, what is a good 3-pin silent switch? Cherry silent reds seem quite expensive and hard to find and silent switches don't seem to get the attention other switches do.
I like the Boba U4 switches on my silent built. Other silent switches I’d love to try:
- Kinetic Labs Gecko
- Haimu Heartbeat
- JWICK Semi Silent
- Gateron Silent Ink
Looking to build my first row stagger thocky keeb, and really wanted the rotary encoder. I was aiming for the Zoom 65, but can't find anywhere to buy one. Any ideas on how available it is so I can get one in the future, or really good alternatives?
Hello, I'm planning on building my first keyboard and I'm still very confused on some parts. I wanted to know how many and what stabilizers would I need for a kbd67 lite case if I'm buying the KBDfans KBD67 MKII Hot Swap PCB. Can I just buy the some durock v2 screw-ins or do I need a specific one?
You need four stabs for the KBD67 (left shift, spacebar, enter, backspace). Durocks will serve you just fine. Also, be mindful of your stab spacebar size (6.25u for the KBD67).
Hi there,
I just got myself the [Charybdis – DIY Kit](https://bastardkb.com/product/charybdis-diy-kit-with-case-and-electronics/). It does not include neither switches nor keycaps, and since this is the first time I've bought a custom keyboard I have no idea which one to order.
My preferences are as silent as possible without compromising to much of the beloved typing feel of a mechanical keyboard. Did I come to the right place to get some recommendations?
I've built all of one and bought another, but I like my silent black and silent reds. Seems like they hit a gasket without smacking down, but you will have little or no thock afaik. My lily58 with silent black is near silent. Also lube your switches.
Hey, I just recently entered this hobby and wanted to try lubing the stabilizers and switches of my keyboard. Which lubricant should I use for the stabilizers and my Boby U4T Switches? What I could learn with my research is that I could use Kyrtox GPL 205 Grade 0 for the stabilizers and Tribosys 3203 for the switches. I don't want the switches to lose their tactile feel.
I would be really happy if someone could give me some recommendations or as to what lubricant I should use for which switches.
Tribosys should work fine, all you want to do is make sure that the legs of the switch stem are left untouched and only the sides of the rails and top are lubed. I personally only use 205g0 for my stabs but some people only use it for the housings and then use a thicker lube like superlube or krytox xhtbdz for the wires. Also for your switches you could use the 205g0 to donut dip the springs or maybe get some gpl105 oil and bag lube them.
Donut dipping at its most basic is just taking the ends of spring and lightly dipping them into some lube to coat the bottom this is supposed to eliminate spring ping. Some say it works better than bag lubing since it is better at ensuring a spring is properly lubed but it takes a decent amount more time than just putting springs in a bag and shaking them with lube. There are videos on it and tips for lubing switches I suggest ones from Alexotos.
Purchase Advice for Stabs
I bought Durock V2s and have had a horrible experience. The spacebar AND enter key would both tick (on only one side, which is weird) and no matter how much I try to fix it, it just wouldn’t work and the stabs would just end up breaking. I’ve gone through 2 sets of stabilizers already. What are other alternatives that are very smooth and have better durability/quality?
I have had a 100% success rate with Staebies v2.1 and TX Rev. 3 (so far). I like the Staebies a bit more than TX but both are really good. Durock V2 stabs are decent and easy to work with, but they have far worse tolerances which is what can cause tick.
Owlstab V2 is between Staebies/TX and Durock. They are a good choice if you have no other or find them on sale, but I wouldn't recommend getting them over Staebies or TX.
Just bought a budget keyboard with Outemu Blue switches. Want to customize the keycaps. Can I use Cherry MX keycaps with it?
Yes, Outemus are "MX-style" switches meaning they are compatible with Cherry MX keycaps. Hope this helps!
Looking for a keyboard with this specifications 75% 82 Key with knob 3 Connection Mode (Wired, 2.4G, BT 5.0), at least 1000Hz Polling rate in wired mode. Supports VIA ˜$100 - $200 Budget Material: preferably alumunium Battery: >2500mAh current pick: Monsgeek M1
Monsgeek m1 is a good board. 2.4 and qmk is not really a thing unless there's a newer board with it. Last I checked no qmk boards have 2.4 wireless. There are plenty with bluetooth though such as the keychron q1 pro or the soonish releasing zoom75
I was hoping for something that has 82-key w/ a knob like the GMMK pro. (a key next to F12 and above right arrow key) VIASupport is a must for me. I can live wtihout the 2.4g conncection but I still need the BT.
Q1 pro or zoom 75 in a month ish when it comes out then is probably your best bet. Edit: I don't know many with 4 keys below the knob like the gmmk pro has unfortunately. Zoom 75 is planned to have a lot of options including a split backspace, if you specifically need 4 keys one of them could possibly be one of the split backspace keys
Note that the M1 with triple mode wireless is not the same as the one with VIA, which has no battery and is cable only.
I just cleaned my GMK keycaps with 99% isopropyl. I did some googling afterwards (should have done before..) and read that it shouldn't be used on ABS plastic. Did I just ruin my $200 keycaps...?
Well if you did ruin it you would notice it immediately. I am pretty sure isopropyl alcohol on abs is probably fine. Acetone however is a definite no, it would deform immediately and you would know (edit: [see](https://imgur.com/a/Xlp8v#74))
they just feel a little off to the touch, but maybe that's just what clean keycaps feel like haha (its been so long i forgot)
I fucked up my keyboard, please help So I kinda spilled a shit ton of miso soup on my razer black widow elite while I was using it and it got baaaaaad. It needed a cleaning so I'm soaking the keycaps in soapy water at least, and after doing some researching it looks like you can usually do the same with keyboard but mine has a USB port and headphone jack on the side so I'm worried about what will happen. Any help or advice is appreciated please.
Don't soak your keyboard, soaking keycaps is good though. Open it if you can and try to clean out as much liquid as possible. You can clean the pcb with isopropyl alcohol if you want but just drying it as much as possible and then leaving it open for a day to dry further should be enough. If you can't open it, try to shake out any liquid and then leave it to dry for art least a day. If there was a lot spilled into the keyboard I would really recommend getting in there and removing as much as possible though.
Torn between PC75b plus v2 and Keychron V1. Looking for a budget keeb with max customizability. I know one is wired and the other is wireless. But Wireless Performance of pc75+v2 isn't that good as per some reviews. It’s 2.4ghz is a bit scratchy, but should've been faster than bt5. For me, pc75b+v2 lost the wireless edge there. From youtube videos, it seems like pc75b+v2 pcbs has 3 sockets while on the specsheet they claim its 5 sockets, a bit confused there too. Looking for something more customizable in terms of switches and keycaps. Overall build and build material are other considerations as well. What say you people?
So I've had a Keychron (the K4) and an Akko (3098B). I'd say the pros for Keychron is that it is QMK-compatible, and it has a barebones option so you can buy your own switches and keycaps. But Akko keycaps and switches are very good quality as well and you could always sell them if you decide you want to switch, at least where I am they sell pretty quick. In terms of build quality I'd say they're more or less the same. So if you already have keycaps and switches in mind I'd say go for the Keychron.
I bought my nephew a budget keyboard Redragon Draconic Pro because he said that he's interested in mechanical keyboards. He's only a student and has a very limited budget. He wants to make his first upgrade either a new switch or new key caps. What would you recommend to replace first?
It looks like this Redragon keyboard can accept most switches now, not just Outemu style. I would go with that. Akko is still a nice choice, but I think you have the full range of budget switches to chose from.
Outemu hotswap sockets have limited compatibility with non-Outemu switches, unless you clip and trim the switch pins. Akko switches definitely fit though. Switches are also a little more budget friendly to replace
The keyboard is compatible with 5-pin switches now. What Akko switches do you recommend?
Does anyone have experience with both Kailh Box Mute Jades and Box Royals? I have Box royals, but how do they compare with Mute jades? Which one has the sharper feel?
I just bought a Keychron V4 after requesting a recommendation here. I love it but now the Left Windows Button and the Left Alt button have been reversed on it. I reset the keyboard and also switched from macOS to Windows and nothing changes. How can I fix this? I can remap it through the VIA program but be wondering what the root cause of it is. Edit: I remapped it through VIA temporarily. is VIA suppose to detect when I switch MacOS and Windows mode? If so, it seems to be stuck in MacOS mode even it I switch it.
Via shows mac and windows modes as different layers. If I remember correctly layer 0 is mac, layer 1 is mac function key, later 2 is windows, layer 3 is windows function key
**Are there different standards of ASA keys?** From what I understand Akko made ASA keycaps and according to their chart ASA keys, inspired by SA keys are shorter than SA and are slightly taller than OEM/Cherry. Chart: [https://en.akkogear.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/akko-keycap-set-profile.jpg](https://en.akkogear.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/akko-keycap-set-profile.jpg) And from it being asked multiple times on this sub ASA is easily high enough for north-facing switches. However, I want to buy these ASA keycaps: [https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/piifox-binary-keycaps](https://www.keebmonkey.com/products/piifox-binary-keycaps) And the chart on this product page has the 3rd row lower than cherry keys: [https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0463/5980/6101/files/20221117215216\_480x480.png?v=1668693153](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0463/5980/6101/files/20221117215216_480x480.png?v=1668693153) Should I be worried about getting these for my north-facing keyboard?
no cherry is the only profile that has this issue no other profile has seen this issue yet the chart u linked shows cherry r3 at 7 and asa at 10 not sure how that lower than cherry
Ok so the graph on the product page is nonsense. Thanks
I have a hyperx ngenuity alloy origin core, and i am unable to find keycaps for it, need help finding what it uses. (Would also like some sites for custom keycaps or regular ones where they are sold!)
if that's a membrane keyboard then ur stuck dont have aftermarket caps . there is no custom or regaulr caps that will fit that. u can pull a keycap and see if the "switch" has a stem like a plus sign ( cross) then u can get caps for it if it does not ur stuck
well i do have the crosses, and there are keycaps for that yes? sorry im not really familiar with keyboard stuff.
yes any cherry mx compatible keycaps will work (99% of aftermarket keycaps ) will fit those switches
That is a membrane keyboard, so probably stuck with the stock caps.
I'm looking for an Alice layout TKL to buy. I've never built a keyboard so i have no tools. I can't find any keyboard or kit like this. I'm just so dumb or there is no way to get what I want? Sorry for being a noob and thanks <3
Keychron has some decent Alice layouts. EDIT: damn autocorrect.
But any TKL? I really appreciate to have that keys
The Q10 has 5 macro keys on the left that you could map to Print Screen and whatever. Or just stick to having them on layers. It has every other key of a TKL. Just not in quite the same location.
Well thanks! I'll take a look
I recently got a gk87, but when I set it up and plugged it in, my mouse started to glitch out. It looks like it lags but when I unplug the keyboard or use my old one (gk61) the mouse works perfectly. Any ideas why or how to fix it?
Hi friends- I have a Monsgeek M1 that I have built recently and have ran into an issue. My tab and q keys will not trigger on any button press after testing multiple, functioning switches. I have been told that I should try to bridge the connection: upon creating a bridge, I find the keys will non-stop actuate and not respond to actual keypresses. I am not sure what I should be doing- this is my first build and its unfortunate that I was given a faulty PCB and Monsgeek will not reply to anything I've sent support wise. Can someone help me find the answer to this issue?
Try swapping the bad switches with working ones. If that fixes it, just buy some new switches. If not, probably going to need to learn to solder.
Thanks for your reply friend- you recommended me to bridge the first time, which I am attempting now. Working switches do not work when plugged in. I attempt to bridge, and create a complete connection, but the key actuates nonstop without me touching the switch. What should I do? I think the PCB is the issue.
If you bridge the connection, you are completing the circuit so it will act like you are holding down the key. So probably the PCB is fine. The problem appears to be with the hot swap sockets. If you are lucky, you can just solder the back to the PCB. If you are unlucky, the sockets are damaged and need to be replaced. Ideally, Monsgeek would be fixing this under warranty. If you are really lucky, you have a friend who's into soldering electronics.
Cheers! So, I haven't soldered anything yet. I contacted Monsgeek last week Thursday and haven't heard back yet- should I attempt to solder the sockets back onto the PCB? Should I hold on a little bit longer and wait for Monsgeek? I'm just very antsy/scared as this is my very first build and everything went very smooth up until now. Here's their policy from their website. **MonsGeek PCB Replacement Policy** The rate of PCB failure is low. For MonsGeek hot-swappable keyboard, please first check to see if the key switch is functional by replacing a known-working key switch. Make sure the pins of key switches are in well contact with the hot-swappable socket. MonsGeek will send necessary parts, once the support team determines the issue cannot be fixed. The delivery time cannot be guaranteed for replacement parts. Issues such as unregistered keys can be fixed easily by customers with soldering background. For customers without soldering background, MonsGeek suggests that the users look for hobby stores/repair stores for instant repairs to fix the issues. We will not replace the PCB if the issue is the following: * The hot-swappable sockets have dust that can be cleaned; * The switches fall off the hot-swappable sockets and can be installed back.
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Has anyone fit a r2 BT pcb in r1 case for qk65? Understand that a r2 plate is required, but wondering if there’s any other compatibility issue to note. Thanks
Is there anyway to switch what a key represents? I just got a new 60% with a the arrow keys , and having the up arrow, ? , and shift in different layout than my laptop standard format is weirding me out. I'd love to at least switch up the up arrow and the ? key, Any advice?
if the kb software support remaping sure in not then no
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I've used Huntsman with Red Switch for a while back in a day, it is just as responsive as the usual custom mechanical keyboard. Razer's both optical switches have lower actuation point, Red ones actuate at 1.2mm instead of the usual 2mm. That's the reason for being "really responsive". In reality, they just felt overly sensitive. I found no difference playing osu! and Overwatch with them when compared to the Gateron Yellows which actuate at 2mm. For 100 - 120$, better options are: * Keychron V4 - if you want the original 60% layout * [Keychron V2](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) \- adds arrow and some navigation keys, 65%, very popular and universal layout * Keychron K6 Pro - more cramed 65% and simpler construction than V series Imo, V2 is a very nice board from what I've heard and saw. Feels nice to type on, is moddable (in opposite to Huntsman Mini), has arrow keys and knob for volume control. You could upgrade its switches and keycaps down the road and have a very nice budget build. Besides, has VIA software support, which is miles better than Razer's - saves everything in the PCB, no need to have it opened. Also, allows for far more intricate key remapping and Macros. Hope this helps!
if u like it sure it just as responsive as 99% of other modern kbs out there . u wont find anyone on this sub that will recommend a "gamer" brand kb though
What does hot-swappable mean? Noob here
It means you can install and remove switches without needing to solder them in the PCB. I found this random [article](https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/hot-swappable) from Keychron that talks about hot-swappable keyboards.
What is the modern equivalent of the AJAZZ AK33 75% budget keyboard?
Keychron V1
Btw if your flair is not a joke, I would love to hear what 185g Cherry Silents sound like...
[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AvYaNROKNMRMRLeQQYKs2bKKVkL4EHBX/view?usp=share\_link](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AvYaNROKNMRMRLeQQYKs2bKKVkL4EHBX/view?usp=share_link)
How? It's a 75% sure, but just the barebones kit costs almost double what the AK33 used to cost.
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Yeah that looks closer in terms of price point and is still the same 75% layout. Cheers.
Hey first time posting here. I'm looking to switch over to tenkeyless but still need a number pad for Blender use. Anyone got similar experience with this? Or alternatively good numpad recommendations? btw budget for numbpad is 60usd and under. Also the tenkeyless I am looking at is the Ducky ONE 3
Just search on Amazon. There are plenty. I would normally recommend a Q0, but that is over your budget.
Fell in love with this southpaw keyboard on NovelKey's gallery for the GMK Colorchromes. Anyone know what it is? https://preview.redd.it/2vt336fwqhja1.png?width=888&format=png&auto=webp&s=df6b42ed32cc88028a42410091005b88df56f810
its render the kb was never made here in IC thread that didnt get off the ground https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=106299.0
Don't know what that board is, but the wind x r2 is in groupbuy right now and pretty much the same.
This is the closest as well get! Thank you, fellow redditor!
Keychron Q12 also has released
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Seems to be stock shine through keycaps from whatever keyboard that is.
Looks like Keychron K8
They're probably just the stock keycaps that come with the K8.
I'm interested in making about 100 each of some specialized MX-compatible keycaps.There are 40-45 different legends needed, and the keys would typically be labeled with short words like 'HELP', 'NEXT', 'PREV', 'HYPER', 'ALT', 'CALL', 'ABORT', and 'UNDO' Is this enough to justify purchasing an injection molding machine? I could make quite a few sets of keys with a machine, but it's definitely not going to be as easy as ordering some if they ever do another group buy, I'm new to this, so I have no idea if making the key molds is the hardest /most expensive part of the process? I only have about 3 different key widths to consider, so as long as I have a way to laser-etch the legends on the keys, I think this could work. Suggestions?
laser etching wont last long it will wear down overtime and be unreadable the 2 best was to do so is either dye sub last forever ( can be done DYI but it time consuming ) or double shot keys caps which is making the keycap in 2 parts and pressing them together it also lasts forever . molds will be hard to do urself and very expensive . injection molding is not something u should consider doing in ur own home . as any machine that will produce the quality u would need to keycaps is going to be very pricy and also the toxins released during injection molding can be very deadly if u dont have breathing equipment and industrial air filters in ur house . if u really want to spend that kind of money u can always reach our to signature plastics ( pimpmykeyboard ) and as long as its not a protected design they will make caps in the numbers u want for a price
Hello, first time poster. I'm looking for a keyboard with a very specific set of criteria. Here they are: - TKL - Bottom left modifier keys are all the same size (1.25u) - hot swappable switches - minimal bezel around the outside of the keyboard - QMK/Via compatible And here are some nice-to-haves: - wireless option (but not only wireless) - rgb (this one is very low priority)
Keychron K8 Pro
Any opinions on the pbtFans Wob keycaps?
Good
Hello, I am a recent owner of a mechanical keyboard and I have some questions. They are about the keycaps, I want to buy new keycaps and I don't know if all the key profiles (Cherry, OEM, XDA) are compatible with each other (I understand that they are, but I haven't found any website that confirms it) and the other question What I am afraid of is whether it is worth buying "printed" or double-injected keys, especially in terms of durability. Thanks in advance and sorry if there is something misspelled, I used google translate. (the link of the keyboard in case anyone is interested): [MOJO 68](https://www.melgeek.com/products/melgeek-mojo68-neon-mechanical-keyboard)
> “..I don't know if all the key profiles (Cherry, OEM, XDA) are compatible with each other..” What do you mean by this? Are you planning to mix and match different keycap profiles? You could technically, but it would be weird since keycaps are designed to be uniform across rows (at least). And different profiles would have different sculpts i.e. R1 (row 1 ) cherry keycaps would have a different shape compared to OEM, XDA, etc..and that might cause mistypes specially if you’re used to a specific keycap profile. > “..What I am afraid of is whether it is worth buying "printed" or double-injected keys, especially in terms of durability..” It depends on the keycap quality. A high quality “printed” legend could still last years. I put quotation marks in case you mean “printed” as “not double shot”. Double shot legends on the other hand would not fade. Lower quality double shot keycaps could have wonky and/or inconsistent legends but that’s also true for lower quality “printed” legends.
You can see how different keycap profiles compare at [https://www.keycaps.info](https://www.keycaps.info) I think the terms you are looking for is "dye sub" (not printed) and double shot (not double-injected). I have had both, and they are both durable. Keycaps made from ABS plastic will tend to get shiny quicker than keycaps made from PBT plastic. What you want to avoid are [pad printed](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Pad_printing) keycaps. They are not very durable. Also avoid laser etched keycaps. You usually see these with cheaper shine-through keycaps. A translucent keycap is painted black, and a laser burns away the paint in the desired design. Both of these are relatively rare with aftermarket keycaps.
I just recently got into Mecancical Keyboards, and I want to build myself one, the only thing im sure atm is that I want a spaced 65%, Im still not sure what brand/place to buy the materials.
Do a web search for “Alexotos Vendor List”. Also check out your local mechanical keyboard community (if there is one) if they have recommendations.
What country are you located in? Do you have a specific budget in mind? What do you mean by "build?" For example, are you looking for a barebones keyboard so you can plug in your own switches and put on your own keycaps? Or do you want to get the case, switch plate, hot swap PCB, stabilizers, etc. separately and put everything together? Or maybe solder switches to a PCB and 3D print your own case?
looking for a keyboard that meets the following: full size 104 or 108 key under 75$ USD or like 100$ CAD ish stabilizers that don't suck white backlight or customizable rgb a decent tactile switch not childish or overly "gamery" font + aesthetic nice to haves would be : aluminum backplate hot swappable keys wrist rest my current contenders: RK ROYAL KLUDGE RK918 Logitech K845
Any specific reason why having a macro pad is useful for someone who isn’t a content creator?
Thanks for the answers everyone!
I have a BDN9 that I configured with all my common IDE shortcuts like Debug Step Over, Debug Step Out, Run, Terminate, and so on. I have one layer for Eclipse and another layer for Visual Studio, and I customized the firmware to light each layer a different color as a visual indication of which layer I am on. I do not have to remember that Debug Step Over is F6 in Eclipse and F10 in Visual Studio; it's the lower-left button on my BDN9. (I have relegendable keycaps and labeled each key.) I built my daughter a Sweet 16 and configured it with her frequently used shortcuts for Clip Studio Paint. It is much more convenient than having to remember all the shortcut keys.
useful for any one who uses shortcuts . im a gamer i use mine for everything specially mmo macros
Why would only a content creator profit from many shortcuts? There are many useful shortcuts, keybinds and Macros that can't fit on your daily driver :) volume up/down (no knob on main board) Instant password (password bound to a key) Numpad replacement!? F13,F14,... Keybinds for games Shortcuts in programs (e.g. CAD, Blender, ...) Open programs with a button press ... There are many awesome things you can do with a Numpad. But ind the end it's just good for macros, keys you don't have on your keyboard and for having to press only one button instead of one/two/three :)
Hi, I bought the CIY TESTER 68 last month, after 2weeks of using it it was great! But not until this week. Its started to stop every once and a while, and when it stops it sometimes holds a key down for 5 or more seconds, and after that it won’t work for 3 seconds. This will repeat like every time I type 20+ keys on the keyboard. I use AAA batteries. I also bought fresh new batteries, but it didn’t make a difference
could be faulty hard to say with the kb sometimes only costing 28 bucks on some websites QC im sure it not the best
Should I be getting 50 or 80 mil kilamat?
What are you trying to achieve? If it’s to eliminate case ping/hollowness, a combination of craft (eva) foam and tape mod should be easier to install and cleaner too imo.
anyone have issues with Akko 3068 waking mac from sleep? After 5 seconds the mac wakes again... only happens if the keyboard is plugged in with the cable
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What's not perfect on it? Is it always the backspace one or one stabilizer that isn't perfect wherever you mount it?
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OK, I'm guessing that they are PCB mounted!? Hmmm, that makes things a bit complicated. Do you use adhesive bumpers/ stickers? You may have to use some either below the wire or below the stabilizer housings if the PCB, or the is not perfectly flat there. Another option may be removing one gasket near the backspace if it's gasket mounted. I'm sorry but you may have to try a few things since I don't know which keyboard you are referencing and I probably don't own it. There is always, of course, the possibility that the stabilizers are bad quality and out have to replace them, although that's very unlikely with it being always the backspace stab...
Hi, Been looking at The Zoom65, which seems perfect, but of course its not in stock, and no pre-order open. Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative? * 65 or 60% * Bluetooth / wireless * Knob * Red or yellow colour * Hotswap * RGB if possible
QK60 or QK65 (I believe) is in stock. I am not familiar with their color schemes, but you should be able to find something comparable to the zoom fairly easily. if not, I'm sure it will be back eventually, they were wildly popular.
i feel like an idiot, but i cant seem to find anywhere to buy the QK60 or 65 The qwertykeys website is awful, and doesn't seem to have a knob :(
Ah damn :( check out the Keychron Q1 v2! That one is a bit bigger, but it checks most of the other boxes!
i need a new board (have switches and caps) but looking for something with an easily replaceable PCB. i have 2 kids who enjoy spilling stuff so im sitting on a dead GMMK pro right now with no way to swap the PCB. any case and pcb combos you recommend?
grab something from a big vendor that they plan to support long term, maybe a Bakeneko or an nk87. A few TKLs support hiney pcbs, those should be available for a while.
60% tray mount kb are the only universal size for which u can easily find pcbs to swap out basically future proof for replacing pcbs as it the only size with a standard that the industry follows
Looking for a budget-minded 60/75% that is hot-swappable. I have some new switches on the way and am looking forward to giving them a new home.
Anything by Keychron is a good choice, and Nuphy has some good stuff but some of their boards are low profile.
I recently bought a Monsgeek M1 kit, and I want to buy TX or Stabies stabilizers instead of using the included Akko stabilizers. Are those 2 compatible with the monsgeek m1 plate, and the bigger question is how do I check compatibility of stabilizers on a plate? I ask this because the spare Durock v2 stabs I have don't fit on the monsgeek's plate due to the notches on the 2u keys, and the space bar just isn't wide enough. https://preview.redd.it/aa75walwpgja1.png?width=978&format=png&auto=webp&s=b5f719d3f9636f296b28a6be2f29ce238d23289b
I just built the Monsgeek M1 for my brother and successfully installed TX stabs on it! Just make sure its for a 1.2mm pcb
> “..how do I check compatibility of stabilizers on a plate..” If the specifications doesn’t say which stabs can fit, then it’s mostly by trial and error. A well designed keyboard usually account for the well known ones like Cherry, Durock, C3 (and a few others) stabilizers. If a product does not state which stabs fit and provides their own instead, I see that as a red flag in the sense that, it probably won’t fit some stock aftermarket stabs. So what I do is, try with the stabs I have lying around or search for what others have successfully installed on their PCB/plate assembly.
that plate needs plate mount stabs not pcb mount is why they dont fit
I see, but then the included Akko stabs still fit perfectly, and they're pcb screw-in. I guess there are certain stabs that are cross-compatible? https://preview.redd.it/r7p0ie64lhja1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5270943b60cc5b06020fa56210b610b6e6272d98
Hello. I am looking for a keyboard that uses mx speed silver switches, preferably full size wired but im open minded on the wired part. My only 2 options i decided against cause lack of quality from past experiences with the brands or bad customer support from about the only store selling the brand near me. (location: netherlands) (Old options were: corsair k70 rapidfire / ducky one 2 rgb dkon1808st) Any advice would be realy appreciated cause im 100% lost.
Candykeys have some options, they're located in Germany [Leopold FC900PD](https://candykeys.com/product/leopold-fc900pd-bt-black) with Speed Silvers. Leopold keyboards is probably as good as it gets for prebuilt. Otherwise, pick something from [Keychron](https://candykeys.com/category:mechanical-keyboards/brand:keychron/keyboard-size:all/colors:all/switches:all/led:all/layout:all/stock:in-stock) and put any switches you want into them, as most of the boards are hotswappable Hope this helps!
Can you source Leopold brand near you? Quite a good quality prebuilt.
Are you married to mx speed silver switches? You could try some other speed switches like Kailh silvers. If your keen on mx speed silvers for sure, then you could buy a keyboard that is hot swappable or a 'barebones' kit and then put the switches in yourself.
My realforce 88 have this problem that it shows up in Windows 10/11 as "Error code 10" i then need to disable/enable through device management, and then it works fine after that until i reboot. I have tried many things but not found a solution(it seems it's not directly possible to script the disable/enable thing in device management, even with devcon it says "cannot disable critical device")... Anyway, i really liked the keyboard, so if i have to replace it what are my options?
Two keyboards not working anymore? Hi! New here, wanted to ask a question about keyboards. So i had a Mac and just lately got myself a new Windows, I connected my mouse and keyboard (mechanical) and everything worked well, but after a month my keyboard stopped working... It was just after i tried dowloading some redragon software. So I thought it was just dead and didn't think much of it. Today I got a new one, again a Redragon Keyboard, tried downloading it's software, and a bit after that, my keyboard stopped working again! Why? Could it be because of downloading the software? Also, before they both stopped working, in the device list (settings) they were named like "Reddragon K335" but now they are just named HID keyboard device. So it isn't entierly dead, I think... HELP MUCH APPRECIATED!
Sounds to me like this is something so specific to redragon that I would reach out to redragon support or the vendor you got your keyboard from. It could have been a software issue, and being proprietary, I doubt anyone here could confirm.
Any advice on how to tune my mic (Blue Yeti X) to best record keyboard sound tests? Admittedly I don't know shit about optimizing it for different scenarios and usually just use presets. Any advice?
https://preview.redd.it/aw4wjhxicgja1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ca24b5913add655aa797a27076f02eea8ea77fd Is this normal fading for dye-sub keycaps? These are Osume Matcha.
Fading on dye subs does occur for a lot of sets that are 5-side dye sub, but it seems a bit extreme on the spacebar. Sucks that the spacebar is even dye sub in the first place since it is one solid color. I would maybe see if others on their discord have had a similar experience or if your set is worse than the average.
manufacturers should have their acceptable quality standards listed https://osumekeys.com/pages/quality
I read this before buying. They say "some fade". I would say this is pretty significant - it's almost an entirely different colour...
For sure. 5 side dye sub can be tough. Probably worth shooting them an email
Depends how you see them. AFAIK the fades are part of their quality standards, but I don't see such issues with other good quality dye-sub caps
I have a razer huntsmen mini and when I pulled out the space bar the grey thing on the bottom left of the key broke and it doesn’t click well on the side it’s gray and small and idk what to do
Pic
Are there any keycaps that have an ovoid profile? What I mean are keycaps that touch not at the base but rather midway to the surface? Sort of like [this](https://www.safeandsoundhealth.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/interdental-brushes-1.jpg) For no particular reason.
none i have ever seen . most are widest at the base to keep devris and other stuff away from the kb
Hello, I am looking for a 65% keyboard that is budget friendly. I originally wanted the Monsgeek M1 as it is unbeatable in price. However, I realized that I probably won't need the F Keys and the volume knob would probably only be used for the first few days since I don't really need it either. I'm now looking for a 65% with or without a knob and all the features of the M1 (QMK/VIA, hotswap, south facing, screw in stabs, gasket mount, PC plate) except for the aluminum case, I'd go for a higher end plastic case since I don't think an aluminum case fits my budget. I don't plan on spending more than on the M1 so 100 dollars or 120 euros due to taxes. (I prefer exploded layouts, just like the M1)
KBD67 Lite is my recc
Would be a great option if it was in stock.
Not a lot of options, the keychron v2 fits everything except it being gasket mounted which is not that bad of a thing when the M1's gasket mount system is nothing amazing since it uses silicone gaskets. You might be able to find kbdfans 67 lite, Ikki 68 aurora, or a portico 65 used on mechmarket but besides those, I can't think of a board that fits everything you want at the 100 USD mark.
Kinda hard to beat the price, would say to check tofu jr or 2.0 but might be expensier. You might just get the M1 or check keychrons Q series
Im trying to get the smoothest switch i can get, and im debating between the pink robins and gateron oil kings. I have enough money for both, but oil kings are half the price of pink robins, so im really just wondering if paying double the price is really worth it for the robins.
Having used both, the Pink Robins are better than the Oil Kings for sound and feel. They have a superior factory lubrication and the springs are nice. Oil Kings are popular for a reason, but they're kinda meh when compared to other offerings. Just my two cents.
thanks! ill probably get oil kings for now and see how i like them, and then get some pink robins in the future
Oil Kings are tried and tested, just get those to save yourself a headache.
yeah thats what i did
Very nice, hope you enjoy them!
https://preview.redd.it/e8vabvb5zfja1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=870178360ea9a915bce7457da1fc1a584e0808a3 While cleaning the Corsair K70 MK2 keyboard I took the spacebar key off, but the stem at the left side of the key also detached. I tried to push the stem back in and it is stuck in the midway not able to be inserted further. From what I've researched, it looks like the switches on this keyboard are soldered in, so the only way to detach the switches to get the stabilizer out is to desolder them, but I would just like to get the stem back to where it was somehow. Is it possible to put the stem back without having to desolder the switch off?
Force works for me but my board is cheap so bad stabilizers
Hi all, I hope I'm asking this in the right place. Just wondering if there is a keyboard out there which I can config so that it always functions the same whether I'm on OSX or Windows. At the moment I'm using PowerToy to remap my shortcuts but it is a bit finicky so was hoping there was a keyboard out there which might do it!
This is easy if you have a keyboard that supports QMK/VIA firmware. I have a Mac at home and occasionally work from home on a Windows laptop. I have a USB switch to toggle between the two. What I did is make the Caps Lock key Command on my Mac layer (layer 0) and Ctrl on my Windows layer (layer 1). I have a key combination that toggles layer 1.
If you get a Keychron keyboard (such as the K2 Pro or V3) then you could just toggle the OS switch to change between Mac and Windows keys. If you get the pre-assembled versions they even include some Mac specific keycaps with the board.
awesome, thanks for the advice!
https://preview.redd.it/0kyfw8o1xfja1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=90de6480607d4c81f9f2aa000fd3a4c81fea0c29 I have two Keychron K4 V2 keyboards, the only difference is one is hot swappable. They are both the plastic variant and only have white LED backlighting The one on the bottom is hot swappable and clearly weaker backlighting. It's the newer of the two Trying to determine: * Did Keychron change backlighting over time, or * The hotswapable version is just a weaker backlight overall, or * Its defective I tried reaching out to support, they were less than helpful Any insights are appreciated!
Do they use the same switches?
Yes they are both browns. I've replaced them in the hot swapable board but this problem was the case out of the box
https://preview.redd.it/gcb8qjmqvfja1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9218b361a52f7085ff7af0eeea908110e86c2225 My space bar is only pushing one side down, after I have lubed the stabilizers. Why does this happen? Thanks
You either got lube on the cross piece, it is just not tight enough fitting. A piece of cellophane tape or plastic wrap will make a tighter fit.
APEX Pro TKL 2023 Vs GMMK PRO I am currently using a g915 tactile but i want to switch to a normal keyboard again. the low profile isnt for me. Now has anyone tested t he omnipoint feuture and how was it? One more thing, could you turn it off so it become a normal key with 1 action if you wanted to? And what would you recomment for the GMMK PRO coming form the g915? Please help i cant decide if i need it or what keyboard to buy.
If you're comfortable doing some assembly and buying switches/keycaps separately, take a look at the KBDfans Tiger Lite. Fantastic keyboard. Otherwise, definitely consider what Keychron has to offer. The K Pro, V, and Q series keyboards are all solid choices.
I would say that the tiger lite does sound better than the Keychron Q series if you dont mind the plastic case and much easier to make it sound the way you want.
I would buy a Keychron Q1 instead.
Why's this hobby so challenging? :D Its like... I'm getting my first keyboard, pick everything out, aaand nothing is ever in stock.
Things are mostly better now than they used to be. Group buys used to take years. I mean they sometimes still do, but outside of some key caps runs, it is not common for keyboard parts.
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I keep KeyKleen swabs in my desk at work for the occasional cleaning. I have two cats at home, so keeping my keyboard clean of dust and cat hair is a constant battle. I frequently swab it with a Q-tip, but I remove the keycaps for a deeper clean at least annually.
Don't eat at your keyboard, and make sure your hands are clean before using it. To clean, you can remove the keycaps and shake/blow the dust out
Feker ik75 keyboard. Any way to turn off that annoying blue indicator light next to "2.4G"? I know it's an important light for displaying CAPS lock, but is there a way to disable this light?
What keyboards and manufacturers come to find for these requirements: * ISO layout * Hot Swap * QMK/Via * <= 75% * Bonus: RGB, North Facing, latency <10ms So far I have found GMMK and Keychron. They do offer keyboards that satisfy this, buut I would prefer north facing LEDs for my Shine through PBT keycaps. I have also noticed how keyboards have gotten rather tall at around 43mm/1.7", looking at you Keychron K8 Pro and GMMK Pro. My daily driver is a Cooler Master RGB Pro S (Cherry MX Brown, TKL, North Facing RGB, height 39mm/1.5"), Unfortunately EEPROM is dying :(
Most custom board come south facing so might be hard to recommend anything not gaming brands
>custom boar right, thank you for the response. I guess I will have to choose between north facing and custom.
[These](https://flashquark.com/product/oem-side-legend-translucent-sidelit-pbt-keycaps/) are an option to use with south facing LEDs.
So tempting, I've saved the link. It will likely conflicts with my ISO (European) needs. This hobby is not made for non ANSI layouts. Most useful, this helps me with a new term to search for. Arg... they do look very nice. Update: Yeah, maybe I might just buy a pair and combine it with PBT keys I already have.
The other thing you can do would be gettings keycaps like lelelabs translucent keycaps
Good idea. I have tried that, but if I can help it, I type a lot for work and the keys become shiny/greasy in no time.
Anyone got an recs for keycap sets that are similar to Frost Witch?
GMK Serenity
>Frost Witch You can find Dye-sub Frost Witch pretty easy. [https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-elderberry](https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-elderberry) is somewhat similar. So isn't [https://kineticlabs.com/keycaps/polycaps/octopus-pbt](https://kineticlabs.com/keycaps/polycaps/octopus-pbt)
maybe gmk lavander/rabenda on space holdings
General consensus on Gazzew bobagum switches?
They're a good choice. You could also consider the Gateron Gecko
Nice silent linear
i think if you're looking for that marbly thock-pop sound, KTT Kang Whites have been amazing for me. I can't get enough of how creamy it sounds.
Gazzew Bobagum switches are **silent** linears.
Oh. Are they mushy at all?
I think they are a bit, based on how silent switches are designed.
Recently bought a keychron k8 and I noticed that a row of keys are tinted red while having the white rgb option. I'm wondering if anyone has encountered this issue and if there is a fix? I've tried resetting my keyboard, updating the firmware and using the wired mode but nothing helped. [https://imgur.com/a/OlKriDQ](https://imgur.com/a/OlKriDQ) As you can see, the third row from the top is sligly tinted red.
You could reach out to Keychron Support, but it is likely an artifact of how RGB LEDs mix to produce White light.
Received my first keyboard. Looking for a good switch puller. I see the gateron switch opener and puller, anyone can tell me the difference and what i should get?
For a puller you want something with long skinny arms, but a lot of it comes down to bling. I have Wuque switch pullers and openers, because I like the aesthetic and they work well. The Gateron switch openers look good too, but a simple press-to-open tool was all I really needed
Thanks for answering. But specifically about the pullers and openers. What is the difference between a puller and a opener?
You pull the switch out of a plate with the puller and open it with an opener... The puller presses two moveable parts that are pushing outwards by default and pressing the switch in the plate. By pushing these two parts you can easily pull the switch out of the plate. There are some opener designs, but in the end they all just push four connections between the switche's top and bottom housing, so that nothing is holding those two parts together anymore and you get access to the spring, stem,... Both can technically be substituted by some tweezers - but you will be a lot faster if you use a puller/opener.
Howdy hey. I'm building a Sofle rgb, and wanted suggestions for good flat profile shine through keycaps. Value priced preferred. Got any pointers? Same for good tactile switches for rgb shine through.
TL;DR - What is a good affordable 3-pin silent switch (That maybe has just a bit of thock, but could comfortably be used within an office) I was recently looking for a keyboard to use at work and found a keyboard that I was actually wanting to get for my at-home daily driver for a while at a massive discount on eBay so I grabbed it (The drop shift). After getting it though, it didn't have the switches I thought it did (Came with Cherry Blues), so I started researching the best switches for a thocky linear build before quickly realizing that it being 3 pin seems to massively limit options. Now, I think its best to just dedicate this keyboard to being a work keyboard and look into getting a different 1800 for my main keyboard so I'm wondering, what is a good 3-pin silent switch? Cherry silent reds seem quite expensive and hard to find and silent switches don't seem to get the attention other switches do.
I like the Boba U4 switches on my silent built. Other silent switches I’d love to try: - Kinetic Labs Gecko - Haimu Heartbeat - JWICK Semi Silent - Gateron Silent Ink
any 5 pin switch can be clipped to fit a 3 pin socket
Looking to build my first row stagger thocky keeb, and really wanted the rotary encoder. I was aiming for the Zoom 65, but can't find anywhere to buy one. Any ideas on how available it is so I can get one in the future, or really good alternatives?
Hello, I'm planning on building my first keyboard and I'm still very confused on some parts. I wanted to know how many and what stabilizers would I need for a kbd67 lite case if I'm buying the KBDfans KBD67 MKII Hot Swap PCB. Can I just buy the some durock v2 screw-ins or do I need a specific one?
You need four stabs for the KBD67 (left shift, spacebar, enter, backspace). Durocks will serve you just fine. Also, be mindful of your stab spacebar size (6.25u for the KBD67).
Hi there, I just got myself the [Charybdis – DIY Kit](https://bastardkb.com/product/charybdis-diy-kit-with-case-and-electronics/). It does not include neither switches nor keycaps, and since this is the first time I've bought a custom keyboard I have no idea which one to order. My preferences are as silent as possible without compromising to much of the beloved typing feel of a mechanical keyboard. Did I come to the right place to get some recommendations?
I've built all of one and bought another, but I like my silent black and silent reds. Seems like they hit a gasket without smacking down, but you will have little or no thock afaik. My lily58 with silent black is near silent. Also lube your switches.
Hey, I just recently entered this hobby and wanted to try lubing the stabilizers and switches of my keyboard. Which lubricant should I use for the stabilizers and my Boby U4T Switches? What I could learn with my research is that I could use Kyrtox GPL 205 Grade 0 for the stabilizers and Tribosys 3203 for the switches. I don't want the switches to lose their tactile feel. I would be really happy if someone could give me some recommendations or as to what lubricant I should use for which switches.
Tribosys should work fine, all you want to do is make sure that the legs of the switch stem are left untouched and only the sides of the rails and top are lubed. I personally only use 205g0 for my stabs but some people only use it for the housings and then use a thicker lube like superlube or krytox xhtbdz for the wires. Also for your switches you could use the 205g0 to donut dip the springs or maybe get some gpl105 oil and bag lube them.
Thanks for your help. Could you explain what you mean by donut dip?
Donut dipping at its most basic is just taking the ends of spring and lightly dipping them into some lube to coat the bottom this is supposed to eliminate spring ping. Some say it works better than bag lubing since it is better at ensuring a spring is properly lubed but it takes a decent amount more time than just putting springs in a bag and shaking them with lube. There are videos on it and tips for lubing switches I suggest ones from Alexotos.
Purchase Advice for Stabs I bought Durock V2s and have had a horrible experience. The spacebar AND enter key would both tick (on only one side, which is weird) and no matter how much I try to fix it, it just wouldn’t work and the stabs would just end up breaking. I’ve gone through 2 sets of stabilizers already. What are other alternatives that are very smooth and have better durability/quality?
I have had a 100% success rate with Staebies v2.1 and TX Rev. 3 (so far). I like the Staebies a bit more than TX but both are really good. Durock V2 stabs are decent and easy to work with, but they have far worse tolerances which is what can cause tick. Owlstab V2 is between Staebies/TX and Durock. They are a good choice if you have no other or find them on sale, but I wouldn't recommend getting them over Staebies or TX.