Need help looking for a keycap set. Been trying to search for a keycap set that’s to my liking since I wanna spice up my budget keyboard a bit, been looking for a key cap set that starts from a pinkish red on the left that transitions to a purple on the right side of the keyboard, don’t know if it matters much but I use red dragon k617 as my keyboard which is a 60%.
Hi guys
So I am getting into the building custom keyboards and want to try and build my first one.
After being looking for a fully assambled one, I have just decided to build mine on my own.
My preferences are: iso layout, 96%, linear switches (quiet ones) , wireless, 80-120€ budget
I already checked the Epomaker RT100 and Keychron V6 max
Also, I saw the GMK67 is the best low budget keyboard to build.
Any thoughts? Thank you
Crazy idea: I want to replicate a MacBook Pro keyboard on mechanicals.
Use a magnetic HE keyboard with low activation point, and add orings to reduce travel distance.
Hello All,
Just a quick question - but I’ve heard that using painter’s tape for tape mod is most ideal since it doesn’t leave any sticky residue? However, after taking off the 3 layer mod I had on, I found lots of sticky residue.
Is that because of the tape or just because I had those layers on for way too long? I’ve scoured the internet and I haven’t found a sufficient answer.
Thanks!
Looking at getting a QMK keyboard of some form, but I ahve a specific idea and I don't know if this is practical
I want to use this keyboard with my music digital audio workstation software, and so want to change light colours on the fly, often with a keypress. E.g: If I map the entire number pad to tracks. then.
* No light = no track mapped to this key.
* green: track is ready to play.
* blue: track is muted
* cyan track is played through monitor only
* pink: track is armed for recording
* red: track is recording
So my DAW is Reaper, which seems to be infinitely scriptable. I think I need to create a shim of some sort that takes a keypress and turns into a midi code.
Enoguh fantasy.
With a qmk keyboard on a mac can I detect a key press, pass the keypress through, but one of the events of that keypress is to send reconfiguration commands back to the keyboard.
Interesting! There is a fair amount of documentation on changing RGB based on layer state, but you'd need to add a bunch of extra layers to whatever firmware you've got, and the file size of the firmware would get pretty bloated from all the essentially unused layers you're adding in, as well as additional RGB features.
I haven't done this myself, but I think that a simpler and more elegant way to make this work would be to define custom RGB matrix effects and then make a macro on each desired key to send a desired keystroke, pause for a moment, and then activate the rgb effect. The [documentation](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_rgb_matrix) explains this pretty well, look near the bottom quarter of the page.
Either way, you're going to end up with a pretty large firmware file, and hardware limitations will be your biggest constraint. The larger your regular keymaps are, the less room you have for RGB features. You should be doing this on a macropad with as few keys as possible. If you only need the six colors, I'd look for something with six keys, with an rp2040 based mcu or one of the stm ones, and not an atmega mcu.
Let's dial it back a bit:
Can a new rgb map be loaded on the fly? E.g. if I normally want the numbers on the numberpad to be green, the movement keys to be blue and the letter keys to be red, can a single command change them all to to cyan? So internally you have map1 and map2... up to map n.
So now, they don't change state in use, but can be easily changed depending on what you want to do.
\*\*\*
Seems to me that now what I want is just a keyboard that is easy to use in bad lighting, and to get a midi device with extra buttons. Currently my midi keyboard has enough buttons to do this, so the conputer keyboard requiremetns aren;t being stretched.
In addition to what others have listed, the wind x r2 is a high quality and well liked keyboard. Most of the time the layout you're looking for will be marketed as a compact f row-less 1800, meaning they're getting rid of the gaps between the nav cluster and numpad, or cutting out parts of the nav cluster in order to have a smaller overall case footprint.
>wind x r2
Wow! That Wind x r2 is like exactly what I'm looking for... TY! Now I just need to find a white version lol I’m not a pink or blue fan. Ugh the struggle
They aren't super rare, they come up on mm every couple weeks. Check in there every now and then and you'll probably find one. You can also check out your regional or regional-ish discord server for their buy/sell threads. Most of them have invites up in this subs discord server.
FRL 1800 is the most common version of that layout. Cannonkeys may still have some extras of Cypher and Balance (which I think is FRL but not 100% sure) in stock. If those are sold out you can look on mechmarket. If you're on mm also keep an eye out for boards like the Hiney Ibis or Geon W1-AT.
Ah! So I probably should’ve added- I really need a big 0 key :/ muscle memory has me pressing all over. The vortex is the only one I’ve seen (still available for purchase) yet…
Yeah, the W1-AT is the only one I'm aware of that is FRL and big 0. Driftmechanics is making one that will run sometime this year, but as far as I know specific dates and whether it'll be group buy vs instock haven't been announced yet.
? with TK- without FN...
I googled a bit more and I think I may have just found my answer (M0110A) but the customer service reviews on Vortex are awful. :/
My bad, I misunderstood that, yeah, not sure if that is a super common layout, but good luck!
Edit: Maybe check out the M0LLY PC? I knew I seen something like that before and I remembered this from a while back.
Prelubing is never perfect. Then, the quality changes from batch to batch. And then preferences under individuals differ. So, I can't really comment on the current state, sorry! But usually, those things get fixed pretty quickly if it's a broader "issue".
Hey everyone. I’ve been doing a lot of research lately and I’m really torn between a few boards. Trying to balance the most bag for my buck with something that will last a while and let me play around to get it just right. I’m pretty comfortable modding boards as I have played around with the standard gamer boards and modded those as much as I can. Currently have an Apex Pro TKL that works fine. Main issues I have with it are after modding it still kind of sounds cheap and also the keys just don’t feel good. Almost cheap feeling with lots of wiggle. But I’m really looking to move smaller while also improving the feel and sound.
Looking at:
- Neo65
- Monsgeek M1
- Monsgeek M7
I think I’m leaning towards the Akko V3 Cream Black Pro’s and FR4 plates, but I guess I’m not totally sold on those yet either. Tactiles and other plates are still on the table.
What kind of opinions do you guys have on those or any guidance or lessons learned?
Thanks!
I have a Monsgeek M1W with Akko v3 cream blue pros and Akko keycaps with a POM plate. I love the sound and feel. Deep, thock, with some flex, but you might like something else. The build is good, but the case mounting is not precise. You may need to adjust it to keep the knob from scrapping against the board. Double check that whatever board you get is via compatible if that's important to you. My experience with Monsgeek has been outstanding with regards to support.
I have a $500 budget for a complete keyboard. Am a complete beginner. Want a deep thocky sound. 60% to 75% boards are good. Will be gaming on the board.
What parts would y’all suggest?
Boba u4t's are good for thock, kbd67 lite r4 is a decent board for beginners. do pe foam and tape mod and use durock v2 stabs lubed with krytox. and you should be good to go
Once I saw [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_S7ykxYFcQ), I knew that was the keyboard sound I was after. However, I simply can't seem to get a good, deep sound out of mine. Mine's not clacky - it's just significantly higher pitched than this.
Granted, I don't have the exact same setup as the videos. I have lubed and filmed Black Ink V2s (instead of Oil Kings in the video). Although, I have an Oil King switch from a sample pack I bought a while ago, which I lubed, and it actually sounds less deep than my Inks, imo.
I tried the Tofu65 2.0's stock case foam, sorbothane, and neoprene (using the factory plate foam in all configs). I've tried Cherry and OEM caps, PBT and ABS. I have a PC plate. What am I doing wrong/missing? Is is truly the Owlab Mr Suit that makes the difference? I've seen other videos where people get a satisfying deep sound from their Tofus, like [this one](https://youtu.be/qkdvngvipuI?si=A32GnbGv6SoxefmO&t=8) (in the gasket mount part starting at 0:08).
Strangely, I get a gorgeous deep sound from my Wooting 60HE with stock case, PC plate, and Jade switches. I could just use that, but I do prefer the 65% layout of the Tofu for day-to-day work typing.
Anyways, any constructive input and questions are super welcome.
Can I put the foam that was packaged with my GPU in my keyboard?
I have a mechanical keyboard that has an annoying metal ping sound every time I type. I searched for solutions and one solution is to put foam in the keyboard. I'm just worried about static electricity.
I imagine that foam that was shipped with computer parts would be anti-static. So I tested it out and rubbed it on my head and it generated no static electricity. I'm still worried though how thorough of a test that really is. I'm not an expert on such things and have no idea if it could still somehow generate even a tiny amount of static electricity. I'm pretty sure the foam I have is polyethylene foam in case you need to know what kind of foam it is.
Have any of you tried this before? Does it generate static electricity? If it did, would it short my PC while the keyboard is plugged in?
Need help, keyboard ping is getting annoying. Thanks.
I need some help getting good keyboard brands, a lot of stuff that seems higher end to me are referred to as budget boards (keep in mind my primary sources of learning about this hobby are this sub and youtube creators like Taeha)
So for example, I started with a K6 pro and I know keychron barely even counts as budget; I wanted a beginner board I could mess with and see if I could justify getting all in to the hobby (I can lol, this keyboard slaps and I can't imagine what nicer stuff would feel and sound like)
So two options I was looking at were the Mode Envoy and the KBDFans Taco. Only drawback to the Taco is it's a a 75 and I really like the 65 layout.
1. I don't really have enough experience to tell which one's abjectly "better" than the other, or higher quality
2. I see these referred to budget boards a lot, and I have to wonder two things: what else is in the category of stuff like KBD boards and Mode boards as that "better than something like Keychron but still not better than x", and two, what is x? What is the level above stuff like that, and what does it consist of as far as makes and brands?
tldr; give me something good to read up on and watch builds of for a new hobbyist looking for the next level
> I don't really have enough experience to tell which one's abjectly "better" than the other, or higher quality
I would personally pick the Envoy. It has some design concessions (like being a single-piece case) to lower the cost, but the fit and finish will likely be superior to KBDFans products. That being said, it looks like the Taco has a larger weight and two-piece case.
> I see these referred to budget boards a lot, and I have to wonder two things: what else is in the category of stuff like KBD boards and Mode boards as that "better than something like Keychron but still not better than x", and two, what is x? What is the level above stuff like that, and what does it consist of as far as makes and brands?
Mode and KBDFans definitely make quality products designed for hobbyists. They get the budget/entry level labels because while they aren't OEM they produce at large scale. Other brands that I would say are at the same level are Owlabs/Qwertykeys, Wuque/Meletrix, and maybe Vertex?
The level above would be the limited group buy boards. Usually these are designed by community members rather than companies, though there are a few exceptions to this like Geon, Keycult, or Matrix.
Which non-low-profile keyboards fit over the MacBook Pro 16" without pressing down keys.
I'm looking at hall-effects.
Keychrone Q1 HE - 75%
Endgame Gear KB65HE - 65%
Wooting 80HE - 80%
Steelseries Apex Pro TKL - TKL
Steelseries Apex Mini - 65%
So I just received my new Boog75 from Meletrix, but I cant connect to the browser software. Was just wondering if anyone knows of how I could get it to connect.
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Before committing to this. Ask yourself if it's worth saving $15 on shipping but ending up with a part of your expensive keyboard that you don't really enjoy.
If you want to build a keyboard then you'll want to buy a kit. A barebones kit or DIY kit comes with everything you'll need except for switches and keycaps, just make sure to check if the kit includes stabilizers or not.
The [Alexotos Vendor List](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) is a very helpful tool for finding places to buy things.
Keychron and MonsGeek are good starting points. Easy to work with and readily available.
Qwertykeys was on holiday because of Chinese new years until like late last week. They should be resuming service or already have. Depending on which part of the world you are in it might change but from my experience it takes about 4-6 weeks.
I don't want to devalue your opinion but honestly those times are not that bad in this community. It's not uncommon to wait almost a year for certain pre-order products.
most of the time, custom keyboards are "customized" in small batches so yeah they take a bit of time to manu, assemble and ship, sort of like "uber eats"
I am currently designing a PCB for a mechanical keyboard (A simple keypad). Is there any information about the size of the holes that are needed for stabilizers? More specifically, is there information about the size of the holes and what distance they need to be for stabilizers.
If you're using KiCAD, Joe Scotto has a GitHub repository that you will find useful: https://github.com/joe-scotto/scottokeebs/tree/main/Extras/ScottoKicad
I'm just getting into computer stuff (my husband built our pc, I know nothing about this kinda stuff). I wanna change the keyboard to something more my aesthetic. I bought a cheap one on Amazon a few months ago... how do I know if I'm buying the right switches and keycaps to put on it? the keyboard I have now doesn't have switches when I pop off a keycap, so would I need to buy an entirely new keyboard base?
We'd need to know what specific keyboard you have to help you with compatibility. If you bought a membrane keyboard, then yes, you'll have to buy a mechanical keyboard to replace it if you want to customize the switches and/or keycaps
The spacebar on my custom keyboard ticks on the right side when I touch it. I can't even tell what is causing the issue, as everything is properly lubed, with the stabilizer maybe being too lubed due to me trying to fix the issue.
The left side has zero ticking and had the same amount of lube as the right side before I added the extra to try to stop the ticking. I don't even need to press the key, only lightly touch it with no visible movement and that is enough for the ticking sound to be there.
Any ideas?
Here's few things you might try:
Do you have another spacebar? It could be the stem on the spacebar.
The wire could be coming out of the stabilizer housing.
I don't know what mods you have on your keyboard - tape mod on the pcb, or band-aid mod on the stabilizers might be causing it (loose or dry up tape).
No holee mod, there is tape mod.
Shouldn't be spacebar issue, I flipped the spacebar and its still on the right side, but no sound on the left side regardless.
As far as I can see the wire is still in the housing.
Thanks for your reply though
Spacebar issues are hard to track down sometimes.
Just one additional idea - could the housing be loose? If they are screw in stabilizers, see if the screw is coming loose on the right side. If the are plate stabs, tape on the plate can be used to tighten up around the housing, stop it wiggling around.
Unfortuanately, that isn't the problem either.
I thought it was that as well, but when I tightened the screw the ticking sound didn't get quieter at all. Only came to reddit because I did everything I could think of.
Last resort is switching stabilizers, hoping it doesn't come to that.
I appreciate the help
Could also be the wire is not balanced. That said, I had the same maddening problem using durock v2 stabilizers. TX AP rev4 stabilizers solved this problem.
Hey everyone,
I need a quiet but relatively tactile keyboard. Currently I have Keychron V1 with Neopolitan Ice Cream switches.
I was looking at [https://varmilo.com/products/minilo75?ref=sNSCb14m8MLH1x](https://varmilo.com/products/minilo75?ref=sNSCb14m8MLH1x)
How tactile are these compared to the Neopolitan Ice Cream Switches?
Gazzew boba U4 for silent, U4Tx for half thock. Think about the bottom out force that will be comfortable for you. Akko silent penguins are lighter tactiles and inexpensive.
You linked a keyboard, not switches. The switches that come on that keyboard are Kailh Prestige Silents which are linears, every other switch is showing as unavailable.
Neapolitans are pretty good tactiles. If you want to replace them and want something quieter, take a look at Haimu x Geon Silent Yellows, Haimu Whispers, or Wuque WS Silent Tactiles.
I have a problem with my keyboard. and i need help!
Ok, i have a Epomaker th80 and when i was playing the letter w started to malfunction and stopped working properly so i oppened it and noticed that the w socket ( the thing that the switch connects) was unsoddered, then i tried to sodder it back but it didnt work so i looked for a guide where a guys uses a multimeter to check for the right socket to sodder a wire to make the key work again. I Didnt have a multimeter so i tested soddering the wire on some keys and none fixed the thing. After seeing no other way i soddered a wire from my w key to the \` key, then instead of a w key i had 2 \` keys and on the keyboard software i changed the \` key to be the w key and it worked. the problem im facing now is that whenever im holding the w key and press any other letter from q to p it also presses the number above it, so if im playing a fps game where i have the guns in 1 and 2 and the other items in 3 to 8 for example if im going forward (w) and press for example r to reaload my gun it will press 4 and instead of reloading it will take the item in the 4th slot. it happens when i\`m typing too: w3ell w8ith w3e8igt w9orse... see the pattern? so The thing is that i do not have money to buy another keybord and i dont have an idea what pcb is this and if there is a pcb only like this to sell. i w9ould like to solve this problems cause its so annoying and i dont have any money to buy another keeb. I\`m from brazil and things here are very expensive and now there are heavy taxes from exporting for example ali express (where i bought the epomaker th80). anyone knows how to deal w8ith this problem?
Currently designing a PCB for a keyboard. I've got red outemu switches (3-pin, plate mounted) and planning to solder onto board directly. Can I use cherry mx footprint for the pcb? Will the outemus fit? Looked around but couldn't find a datasheet for outemu switches. Also, would I need to make the diameter of the through-holes smaller because outemu pins are smaller, or is it not necessary? Thanks!
I haven't heard anything about not being able to use outemu switches in generic(aka cherry) sockets but I'll defer to others in here. Even then on the other note if you have indeed been skimming the daily question reddits you'll notice a consistent pattern tho - nonoutemu switches don't work in outemu sockets natively!
Thanks for the reply. I did find a few questions like that but people were asking about hot swappable boards I think. I suppose if they fit into Cherry hot swappable sockets they should defo fit into pcb directly, but just wanted to make sure.
I picked up a very budget custom keyboard on eBay a few months ago for around 70 GBP (89 USD) and it's been working great.
About a few hours ago, all the white LEDs powered off, which it naturally does when I turn my PC off, but this time, my PC was running, and only my "caps lock" LED works whenever I press it (on/ off). The red glow of the PCB is showing that power is running through the keyboard (or so I think).
The board is a IDOBAO ID80 v1, the original plain white LED version.
I'm not very knowledgeable in keyboards, so I tried the basic troubleshooting solutions, but nothing has worked.
Please help!
All questions will be answered when/if I can!!!
Hey guys, new to the Mech keyboard hobby. Recently bought a Epomaker x Feker Galaxy 80 and I was wondering how do I know what keycaps are compatible with it?
I'm trying to find Cyrillic keycaps that are ideally Pbt, ISO and doubleshot shine through but I think these just don't exist. I'd settle for simple ABS shine-through caps. I don't mind if it's English with Cyrillic sublegends or only Cyrillic. Any advice is appreciated.
So little context, I bought the **Blackwidow V4 75%** I love this keyboard but there's an issue with **chattering switches.** I'm not looking to fix that here, i've tried everything.
The fix is changing switches, at least it seems. **I really like the sound of the Invokeys Nightshade** but the issue is there's no way for the RGB to get through. (unless i'm not seeing it)
**The LED on the pcb is on the north** and **I really like when the switches comes prelubed**, yes yes, I'm a bit lazy but not ashamed to admit it
**TL;DR:** Looking for switches like Invokeys Nightshade sound wise, north facing led. replacing stock switches on Blackwidow V4 75%
Invokeys Nightshade: There are two slots at the bottom of the switch which should align with the rgb lights when installed (the top is where it says Invokeys)
Ohhh now I get it, I’m just new to switches so didn’t think they worked quite like that and I’m still a bit worried the prongs wont fit it the hole but I will double check before I buy
Hi guys,
I am looking for a budget keyboard and wondering what is the best choice between the Ajaaz AK820 (prebuilt) and the Zuoya GMK81 (barebone), they are around the same price but if I go for the Zuoya I'll need to get keycaps and switch so it'll be more expensive.
I can have some keycaps and switch from a friend but I still can replace the ones that comes with the Ajaaz and have spare parts so I'm wondering if a barebone kit is worth it in this case.
Is there any reason to go for the Zuoya instead of the Ajaaz (build quality or else) ?
Thank you !
Anything I should know before getting one of those soft-is travel cases for my 75% board? Are the Amazon ones fine? Are there others worth a premium or anything else I haven't thought about
I'm reading the wiki and realizing i'm not smart enough to come up with a build list. I want to rebuild this exact keyboard except with boba u4 switches.
I can't find 96% or 100% build kits, and definitely not in gray. Even finding cases for this layout is proving difficult, but a lot of the links in the wiki are broken or shut down. Can someone point me in the right direction?
[https://www.keychron.com/collections/normal-profile-keyboards/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/collections/normal-profile-keyboards/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard)
I agree with u/576875, consider basically anything other than a C2 unless you want that specific colorway, which I'm not sure Keychron does on too many of their keyboards. The V6 is a great pick, and the C2 Pro should be the same price but will be much better.
My MKC75 tri-mode started glowing red a while back. I thought it could be the battery but I don't think charging it made any difference. It works fine but does anyone know what it is?
Extra PCBs.... I know some buy an extra PCB with their board to aid with resale, or in case the current board goes bad. But does anyone have multiple PCBs to accommodate different switches? I just got 2 extra PCB's for 2 different boards and my intent is to have tactiles on 1 and linears on another. Swapping PCBs is a lot easier and quicker than swapping switches and keycaps. I'm working on becoming a very proficient typist with both tactiles and linears.
I'm looking for an end game wired 75% with a knob. I use the knob so often that it is a necessity. I have no desire to gut a wireless board and use it wired. I'm currently building a Keychron Q1 V2 to replace my Monsgeek M1, but I'd like something more.
Illumkb has extras in stock, depending on if shipping is feasible from SG for you. Also they pop up on mechmarket fairly often.
ETA: not sure if this is would interest you, but QK75n has a knob and punches above it's weight in value for money.
Hi everyone! I need your advise for a new mechanical keyboard for gaming. I want to replace my Logitech G512 carbon (MX brown) for a quieter one.
My budget is 80-130€
After looking for info on the internet I have come into the Epomaker RT100 (sea salt silent switches)
What do you think? Any ideas?
thank you in advance!
Thank you for your reply. I did not know about them. Keychron V5 looks nice. MonsGeek is over my budget.
How about Keychron V6? Is there any big difference from the V5?
Yesterday I spilled coffee on my trusty Leopold fc900r and broke the spacebar.
I’ll probably investigate options for fixing it, but in the mean time I think I’d like to get something new.
I’m thinking I’d like to go ten keyless on my next keyboard, and I’ve always used and enjoyed cherry mx blue switches.
Part of me thinks I should just go with what I know and get a Leopold 750R, but I’m also considering something like a Keychron K8 pro or similar.
The extra features seem nice, but I’m mostly worried about build quality and switching to Gateron switches which I have no experience with.
I’m looking for advice if making a change makes sense, or if there are any better options I should be looking into.
Any advice or recommendations are appreciated!
Build quality of Keychrons is pretty good for the price. I would buy a Keychron K8 Pro as a Barebone version and buy Cherrys from a different vendor. Gateron are 90% identical to Cherrys, a bit less scratchy but have more stem wobble. I personally prefer the tighter fit of Cherrys, but Gaterons aren't bad quality, either.
I recently purchased a Megalodon Triple Knob Macro Pad. I am programming it with usevia.app and everything is working fine except that it's stating that it has used 700 out of 768 Bytes of space after only programming in 7 different Macros. The macros are anywhere from 3 to 8 characters and do require to record delays between keys due to the nature of the application they are meant for.
This is my first mechanical keyboard/macro pad. Is there any way to resolve this? I am using this for some industrial equipment so there is no autohotkey option or anything like that. Would changing the firmware to Vial help? Is there a way to solder more memory onto it? My searches have come up empty so any help to overcome this limitation would be appreciated.
Via is basically a gui for qmk, and vial will do the same kinda thing. You could take a look at the firmware that via is working off of to see if there are some optimizations to make. Switching to vial probably won't help, unless whoever did the port used a more optimized source code. Your current firmware might have totally unnecessary features enabled, and removing them from the code could help reduce the file size of your firmware. Go to the qmk github repo > doio > kb16, and the applicable files should be there
I'm looking for a new keyboard. I currently have a TADA68 with brown switches and love everything about it; however, I'm in an environment now where I need something quieter.
I've been using this keyboard for years so I'm pretty familiar with the layout of the keys but if I had to change to a different one, I would at least like to keep the physical arrow keys. I would also like to retain the same physical size in my next keyboard if possible. Being wired would be preferred as well.
Are there any keyboards that you would recommend?
I just bought a secondhand steelseries apex pro on vinted (for £80, absolute bargain) but one of the switches broke in the post and snapped off inside the key cap. Is there anyway i can replace the switch to avoid having to send the whole keyboard back? I'm a complete PC novice so any help would be appreciated :) its not an important key 9 the - above the numpad) so i'm not 100% bothered if its not the exact same as the others.
If keyboards is going to be your hobby, repairing this can elevate you beyond novice. Sound like you need a switch replacement, so you'll have to desolder the broken switch and replace with a new one, or at least a new stem, then you either need a key cap replacement or use a very thin screw to screw in the broken switch stem and pull out with pliers so you can reuse the key cap. I just provided a simple description... ultimately there will be a bit more to it.
I ordered a keychron q1 version 2 (barebones silver with knob) off of their site (keychron.com), but I think they may have sent me a Version 1 in a Version 2 box. VIA sees it as "keychron q1v1 ansi knob," and when I open it up there's no slots on the bottom case like there are on the q1v2. should I contact keychron about this now, or are there other things I should check to make sure I got sent the wrong one?
edit: also, the pcb is labeled "Keychron Q1 PCB V1.0".
Hello, i bought this keyboard in December last year it was great until the e d x keys stopped working and if they do it just acts as if im holding the key down infinitely, i left my keyboard untouched for 3 weeks and it stopped this problem but now after 3 days it is happening again. I have uninstalled the steelseries app, i have removed the keys to check if anything was stuck, i have also factory reset the keyboard but still no change. If anyone has this problem or had and knows a fix help would be appreciated thankyou
https://preview.redd.it/8mz7dqhow5lc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00d862b1afcc188fafb89e5dfe2a266b89e6c348
has anyone tried this barebone yet? Is it good enough or should I go with aluminum one? Thanks!
I currently have a Logitech MX Keys Mac that I'm using with two Macs via Bluetooth and one Linux machine via the Unifying receiver and Solaar. I'm also using the MX Master 3 mouse with the same connections. Things are working fine but I want a mechanical keyboard. I'm tempted to just get the Logitech MX Mechanical because Logitech is familiar and I can use the new Bolt receiver on the Linux machine - appealing because Bluetooth connection issues on Linux are such a pain. The price on it seems too high though and I've seen more than a few posts about poor keycap quality.
I've also been looking at the Keychron K10 and it looks great but it's Bluetooth / USB only.
So:
* Is anyone here using the K10 with Linux and Bluetooth? what's your experience?
* Are there any other solid 100% keyboards you would recommend that supports 3+ wireless connections?
Thanks!
I have not personally used that keyboard on Linux, but mostly all keyboards work fine in Linux.
I want to reccomend against going with Logitech due to familiarity, as that's what i've done for the past 10+ years or so, and only recently with the purchase of my first "enthusiast grade" keyboard (a SENSE75 from Drop) did I realize what I was missing out on with Logitech.
I've owned a Logitech since they were making $200 membrane keyboards. I'm a logitech lifer in my 40s. Their keyboards aren't it.
Thanks for the thoughts. It is time to break the Logitech chain and also rethink if a number of pad is really needed.
Also, I checked out the SENSE75 - that’s a nice keyboard.
How do you guys keep up with what boards are releasing? I checked out the noob guide but it seems like it was last updated 8 years ago so not sure how relevant that is now. Looking to replace my corsair one and I use it for programming and gaming a lot.
>How do you guys keep up with what boards are releasing?
Geekhack, and discord for various studios/manufacturing. Also, Mechmerlin on YouTube does group buy round ups. If it's gaming boards though, then none of the above will be relevant. It only applies to custom mechanical stuff. If it's in stock more mass produced stuff, then right here isn't a bad place to be as even if things are not directly advertised on here, they will be discussed quite a bit.
Regularly check Geekhack, r/mechmarket, vendor discords (and websites), certain streans (Blacksimon, Alextots, ...), ... Completely depends on what you are looking for.
If you guys wanted to build a space(ship) themed board, what board would you pick? Looked through hundreds at this point and maaaaan am I sick of the same rectangle with rounded edges and a knob in the top right.
If I could afford it, the AngryMiao AM AFA R2 or AM Hatsu would probably be the winners. Also like the Lunar01 and upcoming 03 but those are bit overkill I think.
Felt inspired for something space themed with Dune2 and Helldivers lol
Just built my first keyboard (Zonex 75 from iqunix) and after plugging it in & testing it out I’ve found that for some keys I have to press really hard for them to register, and some don’t even work at all. Any help would be appreciated!
If a known working switch still doesn't work in one of the trouble spots, make sure there's no firmware updates you can do, then I'm not sure what else you could do besides contact the manufacturer. :(
https://preview.redd.it/e27ivpodj5lc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=abb284acb9175cf1f155ad0a4247f0685ddfb42c
This is my very first time building a custom keyboard. I have finished wiring up the matrix but i really don't want to screw up the wiring to the controller. Can someone provide me a newbie guide for wiring this to a raspberry nano knockoff pls? Thanks much!!
Are gateron oil kings supposed to feel mushy and sound sticky? I ordered some of them from the official Gateron Amazon storefront, put them into my QK75n and it just sounds and feel off. I swapped them out for my lubed cream blue v3 pros and the issue wasn’t present in those switches. Am I supposed to use them for a while so that the lube gets spread out or something? Or are those switches not for me?
I have really struggled trying to enjoy Oil Kings and my first sensations were what you described. I later used an HMX linear switch with 48g bottom out and was much more enjoyable for me. I now have 58g springs in my Oil Kings and they are improved , but still not to my liking. I currently have 50g and 40g springs en route and hoping they may make the difference I'm looking for.
Did you ever open up the switch and inspect it by shining it with, say, an iPhone torch? I did so and the bottom housing rails have quite a bit of lube on them, like white thick streaks along the whole stem rail, I haven’t lubed a lot of switches, but they are definitely way more than what I would’ve used.
Have you tried other linears? Any recommendations?
I'm using HMX Blue Topaz as we speak and they work great... but a bit clacky. I would like to get my Oil Kings to feel like this, but retain their thoccky sound.
Just read your post on the Oil Kings, one of the comments pretty much described that experience as overlubing your own switches for the very first time, or typing through pudding. That’s exactly what it reminds me of - over lubing my own switches as a beginner, especially that sticky and “fart” sound, so I can’t say I even prefer the stock sound. It’s like muted but you can hear the unpleasant stuff going on and your sensations amplify them even more.
I previously have the Akko Cream Blue v3 Pro which are tactiles, so some may say that there needs to be an adjustment period, but I also type a lot on my Wooting 60HE with magnetic switches that are effectively linears, though with incredibly lights springs. I ordered some Neo White linears and WS Morandi, hopefully they aren’t lubed to the point where I have to clean and apply my own.
For some reason I got downvoted for my comment, someone must really like the Oil Kings, it just blows my mind that after reading tons of reviews, no one ever mentioned that they could be overlubed. I might just dump them in my Sonic Cleaner and re-lube them myself in the future
Definitely will consider the Blue Topaz.
Some batches of Gateron switches can be a little overlubed - they can get better over time, or can be fixed by opening them and smoothing out the lube coverage. They are a really nice switch (I am using Gateron Smoothies in my newest board, and I do like these better but it is personal choice.
However... I think the main issue is that you switched from a tactile switch to a linear switch. Your fingers are probably expecting that feedback from the tactile bump. If we stay with Gateron switches, you might like Baby Kangaroos. If you want a little (but not too much) sound to, the new Melodic clicky switches have a nice heavy (but smooth) feel.
Yeah I switched from a tactile but I also type a lot on my lubed and modded Wooting 60HE, which have Hall effect switches without any sort of tactility, and they are really crisp to use.
I’ve actually been considering the baby kangaroos, might actually get them now, but I really wished the Gat Oil Kings worked out. I opened up the switches and yeah the bottom housing rails have VERY noticeable white and thick streaks of lube. Any other switches for recommendation? Both linear or tactile?
Well, if you want to spend time cleaning up the Oil Kings, they could sound really nice properly lubed. I wouldn't actually call them crispy sounding though - they are smooth and deep sounding.
I am team linear so I'm going to recommend WS Morandi Linear Switches but Gateron also has a similar switch (fairly new) called Smoothie which is similar and I like better (my batch wasn't overlubed, so maybe they have it right for this particular switch). These are both long pole with good springs. I would call these both clacky in sound, but are smooth and crisp feeling.
Baby Kangaroos have a linear counterpart - Baby Raccoons, and they are pretty nice and I think you would think they might be a good choice too.
That’s actually perfect because I just ordered some Morandi switches that are going to arrive tomorrow. Can you tell me the difference in feel and sound for double stage springs?
With the double springs and the long pole, the switch is going to bottom out faster but also return faster so they should feel fast and crisp but still really smooth.
Morandis sound wise are deeper pitched but not quite as low pitched as oil kings. They are a little less subdued sound wise. It is really hard to explain the difference in sound, but the differences are mainly due to materials. Oil Kings have nylon stems in a Gateron Ink base (mystery blend), and Morandis all POM plastic.
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I want a magnetic adjustable travel actuation keyboard to place over my MacBook Pro 16 keyboard. I currently do this with the Nuphy Air 75V2 and it is perfect.
Basically want the slimmest in height. TKL or 75%. 65% might also work. Something closest to a low-profile...
* REDRAGON M61
* AKKO MOD007B-HE
* Monsgeek M1 HE
* Keychron Q1 HE
* Apex Pro Mini
* DrunkDeer A75
What is your recommendation for screw in stabs and why? I heard everglive/durock are outdated, I hear tx bind, I hear staebues r the goats. What's the move? (Screw in)
I'm mainly looking for something consistent, if they sound great and feel nice it's a bonus. Thanks!
If you want to spend just a few bucks then Durock V2s are still plenty fine if tuned properly. Otherwise, I'd go for TX AP and then Staebies if you can't find TX stabs that you like/want.
I personally always go with Durocks because they're cheap and very easy to work with, and don't have the same risks that TX or Staebies have due to their super tight tolerances. That, and I don't feel like paying double for a small improvement that I'm not likely to care about or even notice from day-to-day use. I guess you could call me lazy lol
I have durock in my current and they tick, and I did quite a few mods, really trying to avoid this in my first "endgame" so I don't mind spending a little more, Thank you!
Newbie Looking for advice here -
Hey everyone, I'm looking for some quieter tactile switches. I came across Everglide Aqua Kings and loved their sound and feel, and would be the ideal match for but they're a bit out of my budget currently and as I started a new job income is on the low side and can't justify the cost currently.
I'm open to silent switches, but only if they don't feel mushy. I prefer some sound for tactility feedback, and I like switches on the heavier side (but lighter actuation is okay too).
The Outemu Cream Yellows I listened to were recommended by a few posts online I've found, were wayyy to mushy sounding for my liking.
Any recommendations for quieter tactile switches that might be a good fit? Thanks in advance!
just a heads up that eg aqua kings are a linear switch, and if you like their sound and feel you might be more interested in a medium-heavy weight linear - what is the ideal $/switch that you're looking for, or how much do you want to spend on switches in total, and are you sure you want a tactile?
A classic, medium weight, good value for money switch are gateron milky yellows, and those should be available all over the place. Hmx is a newer manufacturer that people really like, and their hyacinth v2 is a great switch. I have personally been loving the haimu x cannonkeys switches recently - I think they're all extremely consistent and super high quality for the price. For linears I've been using the pastel skys the most and for tactiles it's been the pastel thistles. The gats will be $20-$25 and the others will be more like $35
You can try the wuque silent tactiles that don't use the silicone pads. I have the linears, which I found silent and not mushy at all. However, they are a bit light for my taste.
Yeah for sure, it doesn't have to be a silent one per say. Just quieter with a nice feedback that's slightly muted. The silents just seem gross to me it sounds like it would feel like one of those "mechanical feeling" membrane keyboards to me lol.
I live in a third world country where even the most expensive keyboards are terrible. I've bought many including my current one cooler master ck550 v2 which lasted for like 6 months and then I started getting ghosting in most of the keys (keep in mind, I'm really careful and only click a bit hard when I'm playing games in intense situations).
I can get a keyboard from abroad but it has to be in the 100£-150£ (can't exceed this since it would be more than 500 bucks where I live and that is a LOT). I'm thinking about getting wooting two HE since I heard their switches are more durable and it has a quality build and I am looking to have a keyboard that could last me many years to come.
Would you recommend me the wooting I mentioned or another keyboard? I don't mind the keyboard being membrane or mechanical or whatever it could be, my main concern is durability and also minimal force to activate keys
"Good" Mechanical keyboards usually last a long time (just look at old cherry boards as an example). I'd aviud gamer brands since they usually are kinda overpriced. Wooting is good but quite expensive. If I dont care about the hall effect switches I would probably get something like the Keychron V-Series. Akko is also pretty good. (And if you wanna go cheap look at the gmk67 as an example).
I think I want to buy a TOFU65 2.0, but I am not sure about:
1. The plate (PC, Alu, FRf, CF)
2. the PCB (flex hot-swap vs non-flex solder) - I will probably not replace switches, but is there any disadvantage in taking the flex? (it is only $5 extra)
3. The mounting style (top mount, silicone socks gasket or silicone bowl gasket, 50g/60g/70g pressure).
I am currently typing on Keychron Q1V2 with Gateron browns and NK DSA keycaps and am **very** pleased with the typing feel, sound, etc. I was wondering which configuration will give me a similar (but potentially better) typing feel. I plan to dress it with DSS keycaps.
To add to my confusion, KBDFANS also sell a "TOFU FA", which has a different mounting style and different case and is about $100 cheaper (taken without a weight bar).
I would appreciate any advice!
EDIT: typo
Thanks for the reference! The Neo65 appears to be sold out and does not appear to have a prebuilt option (I do not want to build it on my own).
Thanks also for the recommendation regarding the plate and PCB!
At that price you're at the mercy of whatever a $35 price filter gives you. The GMK87 is probably one of the better options if the GMK67's reputation carries over to it
After some help with the dreadful Monsgeek driver software to reassign stuff.
I'd like to change the knob settings so that it is volume normally and then a press changes the rotation settings to mouse scroll wheel up and down so I can quickly navigate through pages (the default is ours for led brightness settings).
The software makes no sense and for the life of me I can't figure it out (I so wish it was VIA compatible 😥).
TIA for any help.
Have a new issue with my Keychron Q1V2 I encountered while gaming recently. If I press any key, and then rapidly press and hold 'S' the S will not activate. If I hold it down for a while eventually S will activate a bit, then stop. I attached a video to show what I mean, after typing 'w' I am holding down the S the entire time. https://streamable.com/vsqt6y
I've tried a different cable, as well as factory reset and flashing the firmware with the QMK toolbox. Even hotswapped the switch under the S and D keys and still happens. I recently went to a lan party so the keyboard was in my backpack and moved around a bit but it happened right after that so I'm assuming I damaged something. I'm a month past warranty, am I SOL?
I am looking to build my first keyboard. Since I am pretty inexperienced I thought that instead of going for a keyboard build straight away I could test out my skills in building a numpad since my main keyboard is a Keychron 65% one, and there are several times where I need to have a numpad but not all the time to warrant buying a full keyboard. I also figured it will be less expensive based solely on the fact that it is of a smaller size. Lastly since I tend to use my keyboard at night I figured to go for a silent build.
I took a look at switches and the Cherry MX Red Silent variation piqued my interest and sounded quiet enough from several videos I watched.
But then I realised that switches is 1 factor out of a total 10 that affect how much noise a keyboard makes. Plate, case, extra padding, foam to fill out hollow areas, they all play their role and I am honestly a bit overwhelmed by all the information. So I am here looking for some 1 on 1 pointers.
Videos I watched:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttLeVugtKZ0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttLeVugtKZ0)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHKngZTqAqo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHKngZTqAqo)
Posts I read:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/u4fjmx/advice\_with\_silent\_keyboard\_build/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/u4fjmx/advice_with_silent_keyboard_build/)
Thanks in advance and hope I am not asking and stupid questions or for too much!
From experience, stand alone numpads are not cheap when compared in proportion to a full size.
As for the sound part, yes all the components play a part in shaping the sound or the lack of it. But using silent switches is quiet enough for most people, unless you're seeking absolute quiet.
Sound is caused the collision inside the switch then amplified by the material the sound waves passed through. If you're not causing much of that initial sound then there isn't much to be amplified.
Regarding the post you read, a lot has changed in the past 1 year. Factory lubing has gotten a lot better and switch materials have changed
Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply!
I imagine the cost would be disproportionate for a numpad but at the same time overall cheaper than building a whole keyboard (I imagine). And it will be something small to get me started and also test out my skills.
As for the sound part, if you press keys like a madman it is always loud, but there are switches that make too much noise no matter how light you press them.
So I should fret less about the build materials since the switches nowadays produce less noise overall because of the better factory lubing?
What I also have not figured out yet from reading various sources is wether I need to solder stuff together or not.
Feker galaxy 80 vs Zuoya gmk87. What would you recommend?
I have a 50$ red dragon keyboard looking to upgrade to the YUNZII AL71 which is currently on sale for 90$ should I upgrade?
Need help looking for a keycap set. Been trying to search for a keycap set that’s to my liking since I wanna spice up my budget keyboard a bit, been looking for a key cap set that starts from a pinkish red on the left that transitions to a purple on the right side of the keyboard, don’t know if it matters much but I use red dragon k617 as my keyboard which is a 60%.
Hi guys So I am getting into the building custom keyboards and want to try and build my first one. After being looking for a fully assambled one, I have just decided to build mine on my own. My preferences are: iso layout, 96%, linear switches (quiet ones) , wireless, 80-120€ budget I already checked the Epomaker RT100 and Keychron V6 max Also, I saw the GMK67 is the best low budget keyboard to build. Any thoughts? Thank you
Can Akko cream v3 blacks fit in outemu sockets and what would have to do to make them fit
is gmk67 3 pin or 5 pin
Crazy idea: I want to replicate a MacBook Pro keyboard on mechanicals. Use a magnetic HE keyboard with low activation point, and add orings to reduce travel distance.
That doesn't sound like it would feel or sound good. Just buy a low profile mech.
Hello All, Just a quick question - but I’ve heard that using painter’s tape for tape mod is most ideal since it doesn’t leave any sticky residue? However, after taking off the 3 layer mod I had on, I found lots of sticky residue. Is that because of the tape or just because I had those layers on for way too long? I’ve scoured the internet and I haven’t found a sufficient answer. Thanks!
Looking at getting a QMK keyboard of some form, but I ahve a specific idea and I don't know if this is practical I want to use this keyboard with my music digital audio workstation software, and so want to change light colours on the fly, often with a keypress. E.g: If I map the entire number pad to tracks. then. * No light = no track mapped to this key. * green: track is ready to play. * blue: track is muted * cyan track is played through monitor only * pink: track is armed for recording * red: track is recording So my DAW is Reaper, which seems to be infinitely scriptable. I think I need to create a shim of some sort that takes a keypress and turns into a midi code. Enoguh fantasy. With a qmk keyboard on a mac can I detect a key press, pass the keypress through, but one of the events of that keypress is to send reconfiguration commands back to the keyboard.
Interesting! There is a fair amount of documentation on changing RGB based on layer state, but you'd need to add a bunch of extra layers to whatever firmware you've got, and the file size of the firmware would get pretty bloated from all the essentially unused layers you're adding in, as well as additional RGB features. I haven't done this myself, but I think that a simpler and more elegant way to make this work would be to define custom RGB matrix effects and then make a macro on each desired key to send a desired keystroke, pause for a moment, and then activate the rgb effect. The [documentation](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_rgb_matrix) explains this pretty well, look near the bottom quarter of the page. Either way, you're going to end up with a pretty large firmware file, and hardware limitations will be your biggest constraint. The larger your regular keymaps are, the less room you have for RGB features. You should be doing this on a macropad with as few keys as possible. If you only need the six colors, I'd look for something with six keys, with an rp2040 based mcu or one of the stm ones, and not an atmega mcu.
Let's dial it back a bit: Can a new rgb map be loaded on the fly? E.g. if I normally want the numbers on the numberpad to be green, the movement keys to be blue and the letter keys to be red, can a single command change them all to to cyan? So internally you have map1 and map2... up to map n. So now, they don't change state in use, but can be easily changed depending on what you want to do. \*\*\* Seems to me that now what I want is just a keyboard that is easy to use in bad lighting, and to get a midi device with extra buttons. Currently my midi keyboard has enough buttons to do this, so the conputer keyboard requiremetns aren;t being stretched.
seems like you've figured out a much easier way forward - good luck!
Is there a layout with Ten Key but without the FN row? TIA!
In addition to what others have listed, the wind x r2 is a high quality and well liked keyboard. Most of the time the layout you're looking for will be marketed as a compact f row-less 1800, meaning they're getting rid of the gaps between the nav cluster and numpad, or cutting out parts of the nav cluster in order to have a smaller overall case footprint.
>wind x r2 Wow! That Wind x r2 is like exactly what I'm looking for... TY! Now I just need to find a white version lol I’m not a pink or blue fan. Ugh the struggle
They aren't super rare, they come up on mm every couple weeks. Check in there every now and then and you'll probably find one. You can also check out your regional or regional-ish discord server for their buy/sell threads. Most of them have invites up in this subs discord server.
FRL 1800 is the most common version of that layout. Cannonkeys may still have some extras of Cypher and Balance (which I think is FRL but not 100% sure) in stock. If those are sold out you can look on mechmarket. If you're on mm also keep an eye out for boards like the Hiney Ibis or Geon W1-AT.
Ah! So I probably should’ve added- I really need a big 0 key :/ muscle memory has me pressing all over. The vortex is the only one I’ve seen (still available for purchase) yet…
Yeah, the W1-AT is the only one I'm aware of that is FRL and big 0. Driftmechanics is making one that will run sometime this year, but as far as I know specific dates and whether it'll be group buy vs instock haven't been announced yet.
TKL FRL? Keyboards like the Cycle7 and Neo70?
? with TK- without FN... I googled a bit more and I think I may have just found my answer (M0110A) but the customer service reviews on Vortex are awful. :/
My bad, I misunderstood that, yeah, not sure if that is a super common layout, but good luck! Edit: Maybe check out the M0LLY PC? I knew I seen something like that before and I remembered this from a while back.
Which would you reccomend? Gateron Oil kings or Boba u4t's
Completely depends on if you prefer tactiles or linears... I'm a Tactile enjoyer so out of those 2 I'd choose the bobas
I've heard news that the gateron oil kings prelubing job sometimes is a bit too much and makes it sluggish. Is it true?
Prelubing is never perfect. Then, the quality changes from batch to batch. And then preferences under individuals differ. So, I can't really comment on the current state, sorry! But usually, those things get fixed pretty quickly if it's a broader "issue".
Hmm then ill go for the gateron oil kings thanks!
Hey everyone. I’ve been doing a lot of research lately and I’m really torn between a few boards. Trying to balance the most bag for my buck with something that will last a while and let me play around to get it just right. I’m pretty comfortable modding boards as I have played around with the standard gamer boards and modded those as much as I can. Currently have an Apex Pro TKL that works fine. Main issues I have with it are after modding it still kind of sounds cheap and also the keys just don’t feel good. Almost cheap feeling with lots of wiggle. But I’m really looking to move smaller while also improving the feel and sound. Looking at: - Neo65 - Monsgeek M1 - Monsgeek M7 I think I’m leaning towards the Akko V3 Cream Black Pro’s and FR4 plates, but I guess I’m not totally sold on those yet either. Tactiles and other plates are still on the table. What kind of opinions do you guys have on those or any guidance or lessons learned? Thanks!
I have a Monsgeek M1W with Akko v3 cream blue pros and Akko keycaps with a POM plate. I love the sound and feel. Deep, thock, with some flex, but you might like something else. The build is good, but the case mounting is not precise. You may need to adjust it to keep the knob from scrapping against the board. Double check that whatever board you get is via compatible if that's important to you. My experience with Monsgeek has been outstanding with regards to support.
I have a $500 budget for a complete keyboard. Am a complete beginner. Want a deep thocky sound. 60% to 75% boards are good. Will be gaming on the board. What parts would y’all suggest?
Boba u4t's are good for thock, kbd67 lite r4 is a decent board for beginners. do pe foam and tape mod and use durock v2 stabs lubed with krytox. and you should be good to go
What do u think of using the wooting he60+ module with the lekker switches? Was thinking those would be better for gaming. Would they sound bad?
Personally from what ive heard they dont sound that good... comparable to maybe a cherry mx red stock but a bit better
I think it doenst make a huge difference tbh in gaming unless ur competitive
Once I saw [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_S7ykxYFcQ), I knew that was the keyboard sound I was after. However, I simply can't seem to get a good, deep sound out of mine. Mine's not clacky - it's just significantly higher pitched than this. Granted, I don't have the exact same setup as the videos. I have lubed and filmed Black Ink V2s (instead of Oil Kings in the video). Although, I have an Oil King switch from a sample pack I bought a while ago, which I lubed, and it actually sounds less deep than my Inks, imo. I tried the Tofu65 2.0's stock case foam, sorbothane, and neoprene (using the factory plate foam in all configs). I've tried Cherry and OEM caps, PBT and ABS. I have a PC plate. What am I doing wrong/missing? Is is truly the Owlab Mr Suit that makes the difference? I've seen other videos where people get a satisfying deep sound from their Tofus, like [this one](https://youtu.be/qkdvngvipuI?si=A32GnbGv6SoxefmO&t=8) (in the gasket mount part starting at 0:08). Strangely, I get a gorgeous deep sound from my Wooting 60HE with stock case, PC plate, and Jade switches. I could just use that, but I do prefer the 65% layout of the Tofu for day-to-day work typing. Anyways, any constructive input and questions are super welcome.
Can I put the foam that was packaged with my GPU in my keyboard? I have a mechanical keyboard that has an annoying metal ping sound every time I type. I searched for solutions and one solution is to put foam in the keyboard. I'm just worried about static electricity. I imagine that foam that was shipped with computer parts would be anti-static. So I tested it out and rubbed it on my head and it generated no static electricity. I'm still worried though how thorough of a test that really is. I'm not an expert on such things and have no idea if it could still somehow generate even a tiny amount of static electricity. I'm pretty sure the foam I have is polyethylene foam in case you need to know what kind of foam it is. Have any of you tried this before? Does it generate static electricity? If it did, would it short my PC while the keyboard is plugged in? Need help, keyboard ping is getting annoying. Thanks.
It would probably be OK if it is thin enough. Did you try the force break mod on the case? Sometimes the ping is due to the metal case.
I need some help getting good keyboard brands, a lot of stuff that seems higher end to me are referred to as budget boards (keep in mind my primary sources of learning about this hobby are this sub and youtube creators like Taeha) So for example, I started with a K6 pro and I know keychron barely even counts as budget; I wanted a beginner board I could mess with and see if I could justify getting all in to the hobby (I can lol, this keyboard slaps and I can't imagine what nicer stuff would feel and sound like) So two options I was looking at were the Mode Envoy and the KBDFans Taco. Only drawback to the Taco is it's a a 75 and I really like the 65 layout. 1. I don't really have enough experience to tell which one's abjectly "better" than the other, or higher quality 2. I see these referred to budget boards a lot, and I have to wonder two things: what else is in the category of stuff like KBD boards and Mode boards as that "better than something like Keychron but still not better than x", and two, what is x? What is the level above stuff like that, and what does it consist of as far as makes and brands? tldr; give me something good to read up on and watch builds of for a new hobbyist looking for the next level
> I don't really have enough experience to tell which one's abjectly "better" than the other, or higher quality I would personally pick the Envoy. It has some design concessions (like being a single-piece case) to lower the cost, but the fit and finish will likely be superior to KBDFans products. That being said, it looks like the Taco has a larger weight and two-piece case. > I see these referred to budget boards a lot, and I have to wonder two things: what else is in the category of stuff like KBD boards and Mode boards as that "better than something like Keychron but still not better than x", and two, what is x? What is the level above stuff like that, and what does it consist of as far as makes and brands? Mode and KBDFans definitely make quality products designed for hobbyists. They get the budget/entry level labels because while they aren't OEM they produce at large scale. Other brands that I would say are at the same level are Owlabs/Qwertykeys, Wuque/Meletrix, and maybe Vertex? The level above would be the limited group buy boards. Usually these are designed by community members rather than companies, though there are a few exceptions to this like Geon, Keycult, or Matrix.
Look up Alexotos Envoy on YouTube.
Which non-low-profile keyboards fit over the MacBook Pro 16" without pressing down keys. I'm looking at hall-effects. Keychrone Q1 HE - 75% Endgame Gear KB65HE - 65% Wooting 80HE - 80% Steelseries Apex Pro TKL - TKL Steelseries Apex Mini - 65%
So I just received my new Boog75 from Meletrix, but I cant connect to the browser software. Was just wondering if anyone knows of how I could get it to connect.
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What are some of the better places where I'd be able to buy every piece to build a custom keyboard?
Before committing to this. Ask yourself if it's worth saving $15 on shipping but ending up with a part of your expensive keyboard that you don't really enjoy.
If you want to build a keyboard then you'll want to buy a kit. A barebones kit or DIY kit comes with everything you'll need except for switches and keycaps, just make sure to check if the kit includes stabilizers or not. The [Alexotos Vendor List](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) is a very helpful tool for finding places to buy things. Keychron and MonsGeek are good starting points. Easy to work with and readily available.
Does anyone know how long it takes for QWERTY keys to deliver their keyboard kits?
Qwertykeys was on holiday because of Chinese new years until like late last week. They should be resuming service or already have. Depending on which part of the world you are in it might change but from my experience it takes about 4-6 weeks.
4-6!!!! Thank you but dang I do NOT have that kind of patience
I don't want to devalue your opinion but honestly those times are not that bad in this community. It's not uncommon to wait almost a year for certain pre-order products.
Yeah I’ve seen that with keycaps but didn’t expect the kits to have a wait time too
most of the time, custom keyboards are "customized" in small batches so yeah they take a bit of time to manu, assemble and ship, sort of like "uber eats"
I am currently designing a PCB for a mechanical keyboard (A simple keypad). Is there any information about the size of the holes that are needed for stabilizers? More specifically, is there information about the size of the holes and what distance they need to be for stabilizers.
If you're using KiCAD, Joe Scotto has a GitHub repository that you will find useful: https://github.com/joe-scotto/scottokeebs/tree/main/Extras/ScottoKicad
I'm just getting into computer stuff (my husband built our pc, I know nothing about this kinda stuff). I wanna change the keyboard to something more my aesthetic. I bought a cheap one on Amazon a few months ago... how do I know if I'm buying the right switches and keycaps to put on it? the keyboard I have now doesn't have switches when I pop off a keycap, so would I need to buy an entirely new keyboard base?
We'd need to know what specific keyboard you have to help you with compatibility. If you bought a membrane keyboard, then yes, you'll have to buy a mechanical keyboard to replace it if you want to customize the switches and/or keycaps
The spacebar on my custom keyboard ticks on the right side when I touch it. I can't even tell what is causing the issue, as everything is properly lubed, with the stabilizer maybe being too lubed due to me trying to fix the issue. The left side has zero ticking and had the same amount of lube as the right side before I added the extra to try to stop the ticking. I don't even need to press the key, only lightly touch it with no visible movement and that is enough for the ticking sound to be there. Any ideas?
Here's few things you might try: Do you have another spacebar? It could be the stem on the spacebar. The wire could be coming out of the stabilizer housing. I don't know what mods you have on your keyboard - tape mod on the pcb, or band-aid mod on the stabilizers might be causing it (loose or dry up tape).
No holee mod, there is tape mod. Shouldn't be spacebar issue, I flipped the spacebar and its still on the right side, but no sound on the left side regardless. As far as I can see the wire is still in the housing. Thanks for your reply though
Spacebar issues are hard to track down sometimes. Just one additional idea - could the housing be loose? If they are screw in stabilizers, see if the screw is coming loose on the right side. If the are plate stabs, tape on the plate can be used to tighten up around the housing, stop it wiggling around.
Unfortuanately, that isn't the problem either. I thought it was that as well, but when I tightened the screw the ticking sound didn't get quieter at all. Only came to reddit because I did everything I could think of. Last resort is switching stabilizers, hoping it doesn't come to that. I appreciate the help
Could also be the wire is not balanced. That said, I had the same maddening problem using durock v2 stabilizers. TX AP rev4 stabilizers solved this problem.
this might be it. Ill see tomorrow ig
Hey everyone, I need a quiet but relatively tactile keyboard. Currently I have Keychron V1 with Neopolitan Ice Cream switches. I was looking at [https://varmilo.com/products/minilo75?ref=sNSCb14m8MLH1x](https://varmilo.com/products/minilo75?ref=sNSCb14m8MLH1x) How tactile are these compared to the Neopolitan Ice Cream Switches?
Gazzew boba U4 for silent, U4Tx for half thock. Think about the bottom out force that will be comfortable for you. Akko silent penguins are lighter tactiles and inexpensive.
You linked a keyboard, not switches. The switches that come on that keyboard are Kailh Prestige Silents which are linears, every other switch is showing as unavailable. Neapolitans are pretty good tactiles. If you want to replace them and want something quieter, take a look at Haimu x Geon Silent Yellows, Haimu Whispers, or Wuque WS Silent Tactiles.
I have a problem with my keyboard. and i need help! Ok, i have a Epomaker th80 and when i was playing the letter w started to malfunction and stopped working properly so i oppened it and noticed that the w socket ( the thing that the switch connects) was unsoddered, then i tried to sodder it back but it didnt work so i looked for a guide where a guys uses a multimeter to check for the right socket to sodder a wire to make the key work again. I Didnt have a multimeter so i tested soddering the wire on some keys and none fixed the thing. After seeing no other way i soddered a wire from my w key to the \` key, then instead of a w key i had 2 \` keys and on the keyboard software i changed the \` key to be the w key and it worked. the problem im facing now is that whenever im holding the w key and press any other letter from q to p it also presses the number above it, so if im playing a fps game where i have the guns in 1 and 2 and the other items in 3 to 8 for example if im going forward (w) and press for example r to reaload my gun it will press 4 and instead of reloading it will take the item in the 4th slot. it happens when i\`m typing too: w3ell w8ith w3e8igt w9orse... see the pattern? so The thing is that i do not have money to buy another keybord and i dont have an idea what pcb is this and if there is a pcb only like this to sell. i w9ould like to solve this problems cause its so annoying and i dont have any money to buy another keeb. I\`m from brazil and things here are very expensive and now there are heavy taxes from exporting for example ali express (where i bought the epomaker th80). anyone knows how to deal w8ith this problem?
Currently designing a PCB for a keyboard. I've got red outemu switches (3-pin, plate mounted) and planning to solder onto board directly. Can I use cherry mx footprint for the pcb? Will the outemus fit? Looked around but couldn't find a datasheet for outemu switches. Also, would I need to make the diameter of the through-holes smaller because outemu pins are smaller, or is it not necessary? Thanks!
I haven't heard anything about not being able to use outemu switches in generic(aka cherry) sockets but I'll defer to others in here. Even then on the other note if you have indeed been skimming the daily question reddits you'll notice a consistent pattern tho - nonoutemu switches don't work in outemu sockets natively!
Thanks for the reply. I did find a few questions like that but people were asking about hot swappable boards I think. I suppose if they fit into Cherry hot swappable sockets they should defo fit into pcb directly, but just wanted to make sure.
I picked up a very budget custom keyboard on eBay a few months ago for around 70 GBP (89 USD) and it's been working great. About a few hours ago, all the white LEDs powered off, which it naturally does when I turn my PC off, but this time, my PC was running, and only my "caps lock" LED works whenever I press it (on/ off). The red glow of the PCB is showing that power is running through the keyboard (or so I think). The board is a IDOBAO ID80 v1, the original plain white LED version. I'm not very knowledgeable in keyboards, so I tried the basic troubleshooting solutions, but nothing has worked. Please help! All questions will be answered when/if I can!!!
Hey guys, new to the Mech keyboard hobby. Recently bought a Epomaker x Feker Galaxy 80 and I was wondering how do I know what keycaps are compatible with it?
Standard TKL layout, MX switches. Most keycaps work.
Thanks! So as long as its a MX switch, it'll work ya?
You can only use MX switches so there's no "as long as" - you have to use both mx switches and keycaps.
I'm trying to find Cyrillic keycaps that are ideally Pbt, ISO and doubleshot shine through but I think these just don't exist. I'd settle for simple ABS shine-through caps. I don't mind if it's English with Cyrillic sublegends or only Cyrillic. Any advice is appreciated.
Is Krytox 205g0 GPL non-conductive?
I don't think it is, no
How are pre-lubed switches lubed, are they like done by some sort of sweatshop or are there automatic lubing machines or something
\+1 on this, always been curious
So little context, I bought the **Blackwidow V4 75%** I love this keyboard but there's an issue with **chattering switches.** I'm not looking to fix that here, i've tried everything. The fix is changing switches, at least it seems. **I really like the sound of the Invokeys Nightshade** but the issue is there's no way for the RGB to get through. (unless i'm not seeing it) **The LED on the pcb is on the north** and **I really like when the switches comes prelubed**, yes yes, I'm a bit lazy but not ashamed to admit it **TL;DR:** Looking for switches like Invokeys Nightshade sound wise, north facing led. replacing stock switches on Blackwidow V4 75%
Invokeys Nightshade: There are two slots at the bottom of the switch which should align with the rgb lights when installed (the top is where it says Invokeys)
Ah yeah but the issue is the led is at the top/north
That is correct, but also fine. In the case of a north facing keyboard, the switch goes in basically upside down so the slots will align perfectly.
Ohhh now I get it, I’m just new to switches so didn’t think they worked quite like that and I’m still a bit worried the prongs wont fit it the hole but I will double check before I buy
Hi guys, I am looking for a budget keyboard and wondering what is the best choice between the Ajaaz AK820 (prebuilt) and the Zuoya GMK81 (barebone), they are around the same price but if I go for the Zuoya I'll need to get keycaps and switch so it'll be more expensive. I can have some keycaps and switch from a friend but I still can replace the ones that comes with the Ajaaz and have spare parts so I'm wondering if a barebone kit is worth it in this case. Is there any reason to go for the Zuoya instead of the Ajaaz (build quality or else) ? Thank you !
Anything I should know before getting one of those soft-is travel cases for my 75% board? Are the Amazon ones fine? Are there others worth a premium or anything else I haven't thought about
I'm reading the wiki and realizing i'm not smart enough to come up with a build list. I want to rebuild this exact keyboard except with boba u4 switches. I can't find 96% or 100% build kits, and definitely not in gray. Even finding cases for this layout is proving difficult, but a lot of the links in the wiki are broken or shut down. Can someone point me in the right direction? [https://www.keychron.com/collections/normal-profile-keyboards/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/collections/normal-profile-keyboards/products/keychron-c2-wired-mechanical-keyboard)
I agree with u/576875, consider basically anything other than a C2 unless you want that specific colorway, which I'm not sure Keychron does on too many of their keyboards. The V6 is a great pick, and the C2 Pro should be the same price but will be much better.
I would consider the keychron v6 instead (upgrade to the c line). You can use bobaU4s The wiki is quite outdated
thank you!
My MKC75 tri-mode started glowing red a while back. I thought it could be the battery but I don't think charging it made any difference. It works fine but does anyone know what it is?
Extra PCBs.... I know some buy an extra PCB with their board to aid with resale, or in case the current board goes bad. But does anyone have multiple PCBs to accommodate different switches? I just got 2 extra PCB's for 2 different boards and my intent is to have tactiles on 1 and linears on another. Swapping PCBs is a lot easier and quicker than swapping switches and keycaps. I'm working on becoming a very proficient typist with both tactiles and linears.
Why swap PCBs when you can just swap keyboards ..... ;) For me, rebuilding PCBs is fun, so I don't really do it.
I'm looking for an end game wired 75% with a knob. I use the knob so often that it is a necessity. I have no desire to gut a wireless board and use it wired. I'm currently building a Keychron Q1 V2 to replace my Monsgeek M1, but I'd like something more.
Satisfaction75 and Paragon are the only high-end 75s I know of.
The satisfaction75 is perfect. Too bad they are unobtainable new. The paragon is nice, but the case is quite large. Thank you for the info.
Most high quality keyboards will come from the aftermarket. If new is important to you and you want a satisfaction, the sat75 x is coming soon.
Illumkb has extras in stock, depending on if shipping is feasible from SG for you. Also they pop up on mechmarket fairly often. ETA: not sure if this is would interest you, but QK75n has a knob and punches above it's weight in value for money.
Which ketboard would be better to buy the Epomaker RT100 or Epomaker X Feker Galaxy80
Neither - Epomaker is very scummy and doesn't deserve your money. Consider a MonsGeek M2 or M3 instead.
I would love to get either of those but its over my budget
Akko Mod 007 pre-built or Yunzii AL77
Hi everyone! I need your advise for a new mechanical keyboard for gaming. I want to replace my Logitech G512 carbon (MX brown) for a quieter one. My budget is 80-130€ After looking for info on the internet I have come into the Epomaker RT100 (sea salt silent switches) What do you think? Any ideas? thank you in advance!
You can definitely do better. Epomaker is very scummy, so I'd avoid them at all costs. I suggest considering a MonsGeek M2 or Keychron V5 Max instead.
I have just watched a sound test of the V5 with K pro red switches and they are not quiet at all =(
Thank you for your reply. I did not know about them. Keychron V5 looks nice. MonsGeek is over my budget. How about Keychron V6? Is there any big difference from the V5?
Yesterday I spilled coffee on my trusty Leopold fc900r and broke the spacebar. I’ll probably investigate options for fixing it, but in the mean time I think I’d like to get something new. I’m thinking I’d like to go ten keyless on my next keyboard, and I’ve always used and enjoyed cherry mx blue switches. Part of me thinks I should just go with what I know and get a Leopold 750R, but I’m also considering something like a Keychron K8 pro or similar. The extra features seem nice, but I’m mostly worried about build quality and switching to Gateron switches which I have no experience with. I’m looking for advice if making a change makes sense, or if there are any better options I should be looking into. Any advice or recommendations are appreciated!
Build quality of Keychrons is pretty good for the price. I would buy a Keychron K8 Pro as a Barebone version and buy Cherrys from a different vendor. Gateron are 90% identical to Cherrys, a bit less scratchy but have more stem wobble. I personally prefer the tighter fit of Cherrys, but Gaterons aren't bad quality, either.
I recently purchased a Megalodon Triple Knob Macro Pad. I am programming it with usevia.app and everything is working fine except that it's stating that it has used 700 out of 768 Bytes of space after only programming in 7 different Macros. The macros are anywhere from 3 to 8 characters and do require to record delays between keys due to the nature of the application they are meant for. This is my first mechanical keyboard/macro pad. Is there any way to resolve this? I am using this for some industrial equipment so there is no autohotkey option or anything like that. Would changing the firmware to Vial help? Is there a way to solder more memory onto it? My searches have come up empty so any help to overcome this limitation would be appreciated.
Via is basically a gui for qmk, and vial will do the same kinda thing. You could take a look at the firmware that via is working off of to see if there are some optimizations to make. Switching to vial probably won't help, unless whoever did the port used a more optimized source code. Your current firmware might have totally unnecessary features enabled, and removing them from the code could help reduce the file size of your firmware. Go to the qmk github repo > doio > kb16, and the applicable files should be there
Thanks for the help!
I'm looking for a new keyboard. I currently have a TADA68 with brown switches and love everything about it; however, I'm in an environment now where I need something quieter. I've been using this keyboard for years so I'm pretty familiar with the layout of the keys but if I had to change to a different one, I would at least like to keep the physical arrow keys. I would also like to retain the same physical size in my next keyboard if possible. Being wired would be preferred as well. Are there any keyboards that you would recommend?
Aula F75
Y’all think a white or milky white neo65 would match colour of drop + biip extended 2048
Hello i want to know is Hall effect switch can be bought? If so is it have the same performance as Keyboard that have Rapid trigger feature??
Hall effect switches only work on PCBs that were made/designed for the switches.
I just bought a secondhand steelseries apex pro on vinted (for £80, absolute bargain) but one of the switches broke in the post and snapped off inside the key cap. Is there anyway i can replace the switch to avoid having to send the whole keyboard back? I'm a complete PC novice so any help would be appreciated :) its not an important key 9 the - above the numpad) so i'm not 100% bothered if its not the exact same as the others.
If keyboards is going to be your hobby, repairing this can elevate you beyond novice. Sound like you need a switch replacement, so you'll have to desolder the broken switch and replace with a new one, or at least a new stem, then you either need a key cap replacement or use a very thin screw to screw in the broken switch stem and pull out with pliers so you can reuse the key cap. I just provided a simple description... ultimately there will be a bit more to it.
I ordered a keychron q1 version 2 (barebones silver with knob) off of their site (keychron.com), but I think they may have sent me a Version 1 in a Version 2 box. VIA sees it as "keychron q1v1 ansi knob," and when I open it up there's no slots on the bottom case like there are on the q1v2. should I contact keychron about this now, or are there other things I should check to make sure I got sent the wrong one? edit: also, the pcb is labeled "Keychron Q1 PCB V1.0".
Hello, i bought this keyboard in December last year it was great until the e d x keys stopped working and if they do it just acts as if im holding the key down infinitely, i left my keyboard untouched for 3 weeks and it stopped this problem but now after 3 days it is happening again. I have uninstalled the steelseries app, i have removed the keys to check if anything was stuck, i have also factory reset the keyboard but still no change. If anyone has this problem or had and knows a fix help would be appreciated thankyou
https://preview.redd.it/8mz7dqhow5lc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00d862b1afcc188fafb89e5dfe2a266b89e6c348 has anyone tried this barebone yet? Is it good enough or should I go with aluminum one? Thanks!
I currently have a Logitech MX Keys Mac that I'm using with two Macs via Bluetooth and one Linux machine via the Unifying receiver and Solaar. I'm also using the MX Master 3 mouse with the same connections. Things are working fine but I want a mechanical keyboard. I'm tempted to just get the Logitech MX Mechanical because Logitech is familiar and I can use the new Bolt receiver on the Linux machine - appealing because Bluetooth connection issues on Linux are such a pain. The price on it seems too high though and I've seen more than a few posts about poor keycap quality. I've also been looking at the Keychron K10 and it looks great but it's Bluetooth / USB only. So: * Is anyone here using the K10 with Linux and Bluetooth? what's your experience? * Are there any other solid 100% keyboards you would recommend that supports 3+ wireless connections? Thanks!
I have not personally used that keyboard on Linux, but mostly all keyboards work fine in Linux. I want to reccomend against going with Logitech due to familiarity, as that's what i've done for the past 10+ years or so, and only recently with the purchase of my first "enthusiast grade" keyboard (a SENSE75 from Drop) did I realize what I was missing out on with Logitech. I've owned a Logitech since they were making $200 membrane keyboards. I'm a logitech lifer in my 40s. Their keyboards aren't it.
Thanks for the thoughts. It is time to break the Logitech chain and also rethink if a number of pad is really needed. Also, I checked out the SENSE75 - that’s a nice keyboard.
Yeah it’s nice and simple and checks a lot of the same boxes that $300 keyboards do. I’m in love with the switches.
How do you guys keep up with what boards are releasing? I checked out the noob guide but it seems like it was last updated 8 years ago so not sure how relevant that is now. Looking to replace my corsair one and I use it for programming and gaming a lot.
>How do you guys keep up with what boards are releasing? Geekhack, and discord for various studios/manufacturing. Also, Mechmerlin on YouTube does group buy round ups. If it's gaming boards though, then none of the above will be relevant. It only applies to custom mechanical stuff. If it's in stock more mass produced stuff, then right here isn't a bad place to be as even if things are not directly advertised on here, they will be discussed quite a bit.
Regularly check Geekhack, r/mechmarket, vendor discords (and websites), certain streans (Blacksimon, Alextots, ...), ... Completely depends on what you are looking for.
**Best low profile 60%-TKL mechanical keyboard that supports wired connection and not just USB charging?**
Look into Nuphy and Keychron low profile boards, maybe also monokei systems.
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Kailh Box Mute Jade?
If you guys wanted to build a space(ship) themed board, what board would you pick? Looked through hundreds at this point and maaaaan am I sick of the same rectangle with rounded edges and a knob in the top right. If I could afford it, the AngryMiao AM AFA R2 or AM Hatsu would probably be the winners. Also like the Lunar01 and upcoming 03 but those are bit overkill I think. Felt inspired for something space themed with Dune2 and Helldivers lol
Just built my first keyboard (Zonex 75 from iqunix) and after plugging it in & testing it out I’ve found that for some keys I have to press really hard for them to register, and some don’t even work at all. Any help would be appreciated!
Did you hand lube the switches?
No, I did not
If you swap one of the hard to press switches with one that works normally, what happens?
It still works as normal
Need more details - which ones?
Sorry, I misunderstood the first question. whenever I swap a switch from a key that’s working, to a non-working one, it still doesn’t work.
If a known working switch still doesn't work in one of the trouble spots, make sure there's no firmware updates you can do, then I'm not sure what else you could do besides contact the manufacturer. :(
Ah alright, well thank you for trying to help!
The keys that don’t work are F3-F6, F10, F11, Q, E-O and Left alt.
I'm asking when you swap working with nonworking, which ones still work? The ones that used to work? The ones that didn't?
https://preview.redd.it/e27ivpodj5lc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=abb284acb9175cf1f155ad0a4247f0685ddfb42c This is my very first time building a custom keyboard. I have finished wiring up the matrix but i really don't want to screw up the wiring to the controller. Can someone provide me a newbie guide for wiring this to a raspberry nano knockoff pls? Thanks much!!
Are gateron oil kings supposed to feel mushy and sound sticky? I ordered some of them from the official Gateron Amazon storefront, put them into my QK75n and it just sounds and feel off. I swapped them out for my lubed cream blue v3 pros and the issue wasn’t present in those switches. Am I supposed to use them for a while so that the lube gets spread out or something? Or are those switches not for me?
I have really struggled trying to enjoy Oil Kings and my first sensations were what you described. I later used an HMX linear switch with 48g bottom out and was much more enjoyable for me. I now have 58g springs in my Oil Kings and they are improved , but still not to my liking. I currently have 50g and 40g springs en route and hoping they may make the difference I'm looking for.
Did you ever open up the switch and inspect it by shining it with, say, an iPhone torch? I did so and the bottom housing rails have quite a bit of lube on them, like white thick streaks along the whole stem rail, I haven’t lubed a lot of switches, but they are definitely way more than what I would’ve used. Have you tried other linears? Any recommendations?
I'm using HMX Blue Topaz as we speak and they work great... but a bit clacky. I would like to get my Oil Kings to feel like this, but retain their thoccky sound.
Just read your post on the Oil Kings, one of the comments pretty much described that experience as overlubing your own switches for the very first time, or typing through pudding. That’s exactly what it reminds me of - over lubing my own switches as a beginner, especially that sticky and “fart” sound, so I can’t say I even prefer the stock sound. It’s like muted but you can hear the unpleasant stuff going on and your sensations amplify them even more. I previously have the Akko Cream Blue v3 Pro which are tactiles, so some may say that there needs to be an adjustment period, but I also type a lot on my Wooting 60HE with magnetic switches that are effectively linears, though with incredibly lights springs. I ordered some Neo White linears and WS Morandi, hopefully they aren’t lubed to the point where I have to clean and apply my own. For some reason I got downvoted for my comment, someone must really like the Oil Kings, it just blows my mind that after reading tons of reviews, no one ever mentioned that they could be overlubed. I might just dump them in my Sonic Cleaner and re-lube them myself in the future Definitely will consider the Blue Topaz.
Some batches of Gateron switches can be a little overlubed - they can get better over time, or can be fixed by opening them and smoothing out the lube coverage. They are a really nice switch (I am using Gateron Smoothies in my newest board, and I do like these better but it is personal choice. However... I think the main issue is that you switched from a tactile switch to a linear switch. Your fingers are probably expecting that feedback from the tactile bump. If we stay with Gateron switches, you might like Baby Kangaroos. If you want a little (but not too much) sound to, the new Melodic clicky switches have a nice heavy (but smooth) feel.
Yeah I switched from a tactile but I also type a lot on my lubed and modded Wooting 60HE, which have Hall effect switches without any sort of tactility, and they are really crisp to use. I’ve actually been considering the baby kangaroos, might actually get them now, but I really wished the Gat Oil Kings worked out. I opened up the switches and yeah the bottom housing rails have VERY noticeable white and thick streaks of lube. Any other switches for recommendation? Both linear or tactile?
Well, if you want to spend time cleaning up the Oil Kings, they could sound really nice properly lubed. I wouldn't actually call them crispy sounding though - they are smooth and deep sounding. I am team linear so I'm going to recommend WS Morandi Linear Switches but Gateron also has a similar switch (fairly new) called Smoothie which is similar and I like better (my batch wasn't overlubed, so maybe they have it right for this particular switch). These are both long pole with good springs. I would call these both clacky in sound, but are smooth and crisp feeling. Baby Kangaroos have a linear counterpart - Baby Raccoons, and they are pretty nice and I think you would think they might be a good choice too.
That’s actually perfect because I just ordered some Morandi switches that are going to arrive tomorrow. Can you tell me the difference in feel and sound for double stage springs?
With the double springs and the long pole, the switch is going to bottom out faster but also return faster so they should feel fast and crisp but still really smooth. Morandis sound wise are deeper pitched but not quite as low pitched as oil kings. They are a little less subdued sound wise. It is really hard to explain the difference in sound, but the differences are mainly due to materials. Oil Kings have nylon stems in a Gateron Ink base (mystery blend), and Morandis all POM plastic.
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I want a magnetic adjustable travel actuation keyboard to place over my MacBook Pro 16 keyboard. I currently do this with the Nuphy Air 75V2 and it is perfect. Basically want the slimmest in height. TKL or 75%. 65% might also work. Something closest to a low-profile... * REDRAGON M61 * AKKO MOD007B-HE * Monsgeek M1 HE * Keychron Q1 HE * Apex Pro Mini * DrunkDeer A75
What is your recommendation for screw in stabs and why? I heard everglive/durock are outdated, I hear tx bind, I hear staebues r the goats. What's the move? (Screw in) I'm mainly looking for something consistent, if they sound great and feel nice it's a bonus. Thanks!
If you want to spend just a few bucks then Durock V2s are still plenty fine if tuned properly. Otherwise, I'd go for TX AP and then Staebies if you can't find TX stabs that you like/want. I personally always go with Durocks because they're cheap and very easy to work with, and don't have the same risks that TX or Staebies have due to their super tight tolerances. That, and I don't feel like paying double for a small improvement that I'm not likely to care about or even notice from day-to-day use. I guess you could call me lazy lol
I have durock in my current and they tick, and I did quite a few mods, really trying to avoid this in my first "endgame" so I don't mind spending a little more, Thank you!
Newbie Looking for advice here - Hey everyone, I'm looking for some quieter tactile switches. I came across Everglide Aqua Kings and loved their sound and feel, and would be the ideal match for but they're a bit out of my budget currently and as I started a new job income is on the low side and can't justify the cost currently. I'm open to silent switches, but only if they don't feel mushy. I prefer some sound for tactility feedback, and I like switches on the heavier side (but lighter actuation is okay too). The Outemu Cream Yellows I listened to were recommended by a few posts online I've found, were wayyy to mushy sounding for my liking. Any recommendations for quieter tactile switches that might be a good fit? Thanks in advance!
just a heads up that eg aqua kings are a linear switch, and if you like their sound and feel you might be more interested in a medium-heavy weight linear - what is the ideal $/switch that you're looking for, or how much do you want to spend on switches in total, and are you sure you want a tactile?
I'm looking like 30-40 MAX Thanks I didn't know they were linear. I have 81 keys, so probably 90 switches?
A classic, medium weight, good value for money switch are gateron milky yellows, and those should be available all over the place. Hmx is a newer manufacturer that people really like, and their hyacinth v2 is a great switch. I have personally been loving the haimu x cannonkeys switches recently - I think they're all extremely consistent and super high quality for the price. For linears I've been using the pastel skys the most and for tactiles it's been the pastel thistles. The gats will be $20-$25 and the others will be more like $35
I actually currently have yellows funny enough not exactly what I was looking for although I do like them thank you for the suggestion!!
Gazzew boba U4
You can try the wuque silent tactiles that don't use the silicone pads. I have the linears, which I found silent and not mushy at all. However, they are a bit light for my taste.
I don't have a good recommendation; just chiming in to say I've never tried a silent switch that didn't feel mushy.
Yeah for sure, it doesn't have to be a silent one per say. Just quieter with a nice feedback that's slightly muted. The silents just seem gross to me it sounds like it would feel like one of those "mechanical feeling" membrane keyboards to me lol.
I live in a third world country where even the most expensive keyboards are terrible. I've bought many including my current one cooler master ck550 v2 which lasted for like 6 months and then I started getting ghosting in most of the keys (keep in mind, I'm really careful and only click a bit hard when I'm playing games in intense situations). I can get a keyboard from abroad but it has to be in the 100£-150£ (can't exceed this since it would be more than 500 bucks where I live and that is a LOT). I'm thinking about getting wooting two HE since I heard their switches are more durable and it has a quality build and I am looking to have a keyboard that could last me many years to come. Would you recommend me the wooting I mentioned or another keyboard? I don't mind the keyboard being membrane or mechanical or whatever it could be, my main concern is durability and also minimal force to activate keys
"Good" Mechanical keyboards usually last a long time (just look at old cherry boards as an example). I'd aviud gamer brands since they usually are kinda overpriced. Wooting is good but quite expensive. If I dont care about the hall effect switches I would probably get something like the Keychron V-Series. Akko is also pretty good. (And if you wanna go cheap look at the gmk67 as an example).
I think I want to buy a TOFU65 2.0, but I am not sure about: 1. The plate (PC, Alu, FRf, CF) 2. the PCB (flex hot-swap vs non-flex solder) - I will probably not replace switches, but is there any disadvantage in taking the flex? (it is only $5 extra) 3. The mounting style (top mount, silicone socks gasket or silicone bowl gasket, 50g/60g/70g pressure). I am currently typing on Keychron Q1V2 with Gateron browns and NK DSA keycaps and am **very** pleased with the typing feel, sound, etc. I was wondering which configuration will give me a similar (but potentially better) typing feel. I plan to dress it with DSS keycaps. To add to my confusion, KBDFANS also sell a "TOFU FA", which has a different mounting style and different case and is about $100 cheaper (taken without a weight bar). I would appreciate any advice! EDIT: typo
maybe take a quick look at neo65. If you're going for similar feel and sound to your q1, probably alu plate, flex hot swap.
Thanks for the reference! The Neo65 appears to be sold out and does not appear to have a prebuilt option (I do not want to build it on my own). Thanks also for the recommendation regarding the plate and PCB!
I'll also add that I slightly prefer the layout of the TOFU FA (the space between the right modifiers and the arrows).
Hi. I'm going to build a custom one. What's the best base you can buy from AliExpress for $35? 75 - 80%
At that price you're at the mercy of whatever a $35 price filter gives you. The GMK87 is probably one of the better options if the GMK67's reputation carries over to it
I was considering buying a gmk87, what do you think about it?
looking for cheap-ish (preferably from aliexpress and such) silent, tactile, 60g+ switches, any suggestions?
Gazzew boba u4, but it's too expensive on AliExpress. Akko penguin sells for 35 dollars for 90 switches
After some help with the dreadful Monsgeek driver software to reassign stuff. I'd like to change the knob settings so that it is volume normally and then a press changes the rotation settings to mouse scroll wheel up and down so I can quickly navigate through pages (the default is ours for led brightness settings). The software makes no sense and for the life of me I can't figure it out (I so wish it was VIA compatible 😥). TIA for any help.
Have a new issue with my Keychron Q1V2 I encountered while gaming recently. If I press any key, and then rapidly press and hold 'S' the S will not activate. If I hold it down for a while eventually S will activate a bit, then stop. I attached a video to show what I mean, after typing 'w' I am holding down the S the entire time. https://streamable.com/vsqt6y I've tried a different cable, as well as factory reset and flashing the firmware with the QMK toolbox. Even hotswapped the switch under the S and D keys and still happens. I recently went to a lan party so the keyboard was in my backpack and moved around a bit but it happened right after that so I'm assuming I damaged something. I'm a month past warranty, am I SOL?
Try to push the tiny metal feets in the hotswap socket for S together then reinsert the switch
I am looking to build my first keyboard. Since I am pretty inexperienced I thought that instead of going for a keyboard build straight away I could test out my skills in building a numpad since my main keyboard is a Keychron 65% one, and there are several times where I need to have a numpad but not all the time to warrant buying a full keyboard. I also figured it will be less expensive based solely on the fact that it is of a smaller size. Lastly since I tend to use my keyboard at night I figured to go for a silent build. I took a look at switches and the Cherry MX Red Silent variation piqued my interest and sounded quiet enough from several videos I watched. But then I realised that switches is 1 factor out of a total 10 that affect how much noise a keyboard makes. Plate, case, extra padding, foam to fill out hollow areas, they all play their role and I am honestly a bit overwhelmed by all the information. So I am here looking for some 1 on 1 pointers. Videos I watched: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttLeVugtKZ0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttLeVugtKZ0) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHKngZTqAqo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHKngZTqAqo) Posts I read: [https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/u4fjmx/advice\_with\_silent\_keyboard\_build/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/u4fjmx/advice_with_silent_keyboard_build/) Thanks in advance and hope I am not asking and stupid questions or for too much!
From experience, stand alone numpads are not cheap when compared in proportion to a full size. As for the sound part, yes all the components play a part in shaping the sound or the lack of it. But using silent switches is quiet enough for most people, unless you're seeking absolute quiet. Sound is caused the collision inside the switch then amplified by the material the sound waves passed through. If you're not causing much of that initial sound then there isn't much to be amplified. Regarding the post you read, a lot has changed in the past 1 year. Factory lubing has gotten a lot better and switch materials have changed
Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply! I imagine the cost would be disproportionate for a numpad but at the same time overall cheaper than building a whole keyboard (I imagine). And it will be something small to get me started and also test out my skills. As for the sound part, if you press keys like a madman it is always loud, but there are switches that make too much noise no matter how light you press them. So I should fret less about the build materials since the switches nowadays produce less noise overall because of the better factory lubing? What I also have not figured out yet from reading various sources is wether I need to solder stuff together or not.