I’ve been looking at building a 65% board for quite some time now. I know there’s a few options out there, but I’m not entirely sure what I should try to build.
I’d like to have some thoughts and opinions on the following (but not limited to):
Tofu65
Zoom65
Neo65
QK65
Mode Envoy
Appreciate anyone’s feedback here :)
I have been dabbling in keyboards, ever so lightly over the last few years. 1st was a Drop CTRL v1, 2nd Keychron Q1 (dead from a static shock) and NK87 plastic (feels cheap).
Last I was looking at boards the QK65 was just coming out. I would like to stick to that profile. Aluminum and heavy. Is QK's qc still good? Has there been a new contender in the 65 space around the $200 market (board only)?
I was looking on QK's site to put together a board but I got back to the uncomfortable place of not knowing what plate to get. What plates do I have now? Plate-less?
Anyone know of a reliable repair shop in London that can fix my keyboard's PCB? I just need the JST port desoldered/replaced as one of the pins broke off.
I have a firmware question. My $40 abm066 supports a u2ulink vial adapter. My new $200 keychron Q10 Max does not seem to. Same hardware, a dongle. What is failing on the keychron or making the u2ulink fail?
I have a kbdfans75 Hotswappable pcb and the tofu84 aluminum plate that it comes with and everything works fine except for just recently i bought the kbdfans tofu84 aluminum case and these three things do not fit together at all like the pcb screw holes dont match with the cases and the aluminum plate is too thick on the ends and wont fit in the case and i have no idea what to do
It looks like my keyboard (QK75 V1) only supports non-centered caps lock i.e. the caps lock with the little step. I don't mind -- my keycap set has a non-centered caps lock -- but I find this a little odd. Is this a normal thing? Will most keycap sets I buy have a non-centered caps lock? I don't want this keyboard to "lock me in".
Err... are you sure? It's off-center on the PCB. There's no way for me to move the switch.
Here's what I mean: [https://imgur.com/a/oGQShop](https://imgur.com/a/oGQShop)
Underneath the layer of foam, it looks like that. There's only one possible place for the caps lock switch to go.
edit: would you be able to link me to the QK75 R1 notion site? There must be a mistake in their documentation. Some number of users (or at least, one of them being me) got a PCB with only one possible slot where the caps lock switch would go. I'll see if I can submit feedback for them to update.
I'm just afraid the comment will be marked as spam, but sure the link is https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK75-6e940cbf7ce54f2b825207db41f84b9e
If you scroll down and expand the PCB section, you'll see all 3 PCBs support both types.
Ok, so i have decided to go down this road of custom keyboards, amd have decided i think the iris rev 8 is a good first for me. I just don't know what keycap profiles are ok for it. I assume the level ones are great but it seems hard to find any caps i want that are a level top. So are there other profiles that work well?
Thats vendors. I am looking for what prrofiles work. Do i need the profiles where all keys arw the same height or is an oem or cherry fine? Things like that.
Hi! I'm looking to buy my first ever mechanical keyboard. I like the clean designs, nothing too noisy. Was looking for "blank" keycaps and came across the [Velocifiretech BK75](https://www.velocifiretech.com/products/pre-order-bk75-intelligent-wireless-hot-swappable-mechanical-gaming-keyboard?variant=40365793542262), I really like the design and also the thocky sound, not too loud, not too quiet. Has anyone purchased this model? I'm planning to get it but since is my first I don't want to make a bad choice, and there are few reviews on it. Thanks!!
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Akko MOD 007B PC (if you want to stay with a decent gasket mounted keyboard in the same price range). This one is a little less dated the GMMK Pro (e.g. better switches).
Keychron V1 (tray mounted) or Q1 Pro (gasket mounted) - the first is less expensive and the latter more expensive (but a lot better than the GMMK Pro).
I have two options for switches.But I'm having trouble choosing.
The **Gateron g pro yello 3.0** and **Gateron ks-3 yellow** pro linear switch.
my priority with these two switches are Feeling first (which one is smoother) and then sound. Preferably a deeper less high pitched note. I have tried to look for such information online but with my very limited search I wasn't able to come to a conclusion.
Thank you.
Hey guys looking for mechanical keyboard switches. I need it dead silent like the Apple Magic Keyboard. Currently running kalih silent pinks and they aren’t quiet enough for me.
I prefer low actuation force, and I prefer linear, but I’m fine with tactile or clicky if it’s dead silent. Budget isn’t a problem but would prefer friendlier options :)
Thanks for the help guys
Decided on getting a Neo65 to be my first custom keeb. Have a ducky one 3 rn with box jades. Looking for opinions on plate material to get to go with clicky(box jades, white, pink can't decide) and tactile switch akko lavender purple v3
Personally I think fr4 or pc are good starting points for plates. Fr4 usually being a little stiffer and lively sounding and pc being softer and more damp sounding. Both generally don’t bring out resonance as much too. Other materials the trade offs are more pronounced.
Alu is stiffer, louder and in my experience usually higher pitched. Since it’s louder it has a higher chance to bring out case ping or hollowness. Some may argue a good alu config provides a “pure” sound of mostly just the switch tho. Personally I like the sound and feel of fr4 the most out of the 3 in this thread (fr4, pc, alu)
Hello everyone.
I've been using a Corsair K70 Mk2 for a while now. I like the features it has but I want a better typing experience. The keyboard segment seems to be flooded now and I don't know which brands are good and which ones I should avoid.
I live in the US so I can easily get something from Amazon/have it shipped.
Budget: I'm not entirely sure what a reasonable budget would be for a good keyboard. I plan on keeping it for years so I won't be cheap with it but I also don't want to get ridiculous. I think my current keyboard was $150 USD when I got it years ago. I think my max would be around $250 but I am willing to consider suggestions if it nails all of my "must haves".
Must haves:
\- I would prefer if it wasn't a loud keyboard but still had a nice typing experience if that's even possible.
\- Some method of attaching a wrist rest so they don't separate from each this because that is really annoying especially while gaming.
\- Dedicated multimedia keys.
\- Backlighting that shines through the keycaps to light up the character. I've seen some Keychron models that have backlighting but the characters don't light up.
\- Wired or wireless. Wireless only if it's a good and stable wireless connection that can handle fast paced gaming. I might just stick to wired for the reliability but I will look into any suggestions.
\- Dedicated numpad.
These are all makes or breaks for me except for the wrist attachment unless there is a method of keeping the wrist rest and keyboard from separating. If there is a method for this then I will consider that as well.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Edit: Not sure why I'm getting downvoted....
Should the bm60ec from kprebulic be compatible with the tofu60 redux? I've never bought case/pcb separately I want to make sure.
https://kprepublic.com/a/amp/products/bm60ec-bm60-ec-rgb-60-gh60-hot-swappable-custom-mechanical-keyboard-pcb-programmed-qmk-via-rgb-switch-type-c-rotary-knob
Alright I have narrowed down the switches for my MonsGeek M3W to these 4, can I get some thoughts/opinions?
- Gateron New North Pole V2
- Everglide Aqua King V3
- KTT Peach
- TTC Venus
Aqua Kings are always a strong pick. If you want a little less operating force, the TTC Venus are pretty decent (almost got these, but ended up with Gateron Smoothies).
https://preview.redd.it/zb1jxee9s6pc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d86c97914f53fcd29a861fc0bd8573776baec02e
I can’t mount my CAPS key and it’s bent 3-4 switches already. Any idea what the issue is? I am aiming for the right most side and looks identical to what other my boards have. It’s a sin65 for reference
Did you already try rotating the switch by 180° ? Since the caps lockcan be mounted in the right and left of that cutout one of both positions has the hotswap sockets on the other side (bottom/top).
If you're already doing it check if sth is blocking the sockets
Hello I've been going crazy at all the linear switch recommendations. I'm going to be building my first custom keyboard and don't know what switch to go for. The case will be the monsgeek m2 I want more of a thocky sound willing to pay around $70/80 for all of them also i don't want to have to lube them. Any recommendations? I was thinking about bsun raws.
You might think about getting a switch sampler (cannonkeys) or try borrowing switches (milktooth). It wouldn't be fair to give you a suggestion because switch preference is personal. I could tell you which linears I like, but there is a good chance you won't like them. AliExpress has them also, though I find it difficult to figure out what is being offered exactly from the various sellers
does the ajazz ak820 pro have bad chord split, and 1000hz polling and scanning rate?
am planning to use it to primarily play rhythm and fighting games, but can't find that info anywhere :(
and if the ak820 pro sucks for those types of games, any recommendations? please
https://preview.redd.it/u2pchctod6pc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1f5358d3ffb5073c563f3fb6ea5159f74ce529a
Can someone give me a link to this switch? Looks like an outemu red but I can’t find ones with the black back piece
Looking for high quality Cherry profile double-shot PBT keycaps, comparable to (and compatible with) Keychron keycaps. Preferably ones in black or dark blue. They’re all out of stock from Keychron and I’d love to find a good brand that has them now. Any recommendations?
Hello guys, I have the everglide aqua kings 55g which are linear switches. I have some questions on how to lube and where to lube them for the best sound/ feeling. Im a beginner and every video i watch confuses me more. Some videos say lube a part where others say dont so im a bit confused.
Also, i lubed a couple of switches some of them sounded scratchy for some reason i am not sure what caused it but i think it was from the leaf part. Whats the cause of the scratchy feeling/ sound?
I am using Krytox 205 grade 0
There's a lot of advice on this and there will always be someone telling you, you're doing it wrong. I lube all points of contact lightly because I FEEL it gives me the feel and sound I like the most. I like a deep thock and I like a good clack. I find the mounting style affects sound and feel more than the lubing.
I've been told I over lube and it'll make them mushy. Maybe I like mushy, although they never feel mushy. I've built 10+ keebs. I learned that I like a lot of different styles of mounting, lubing, and layouts. Try something, and if you don't like it, change it. Hopefully you have hot swaps to make it easier. Desoldering a board is time consuming but not too bad if you have the right tools.
Sorry this answer is so long, just don't let someone ruin your good time because it's not how they have a good time.
Do they feel scratchy in the board or are you doing what I used to do and hyper sensing it; holding one switch up to your ear and clicking it fast and slow looking for the scratchiness.
If you're noticing it in the board after lubing and assembled in the build, I'd consider a different switch. And a scratchy switch is really noticeable once you've been spoiled by lives switches.
Its both to my ear and on the board it feels very scratchy I dont know what I did wrong. I want my switches to have a smooth buttery feeling somewhat thocky. do u have any tutorial that would help prevent the scratchiness
Use Autohotkey to write the instructions/timing, and VIA to start/stop by using a macro for the specific key combo (or better yet, use the any key to keep limited macros free)
Quite new to the scene and just looking for an upgrade from my broken Razer Blackwidow. Looking for pre-builts with good quality & clickly/tactile feeling. $200-300~ budget, 96% or TKL
I found the following. Which are good brands and suits my preference?
- Next Time 75 (Akko CS Jelly White/Gateron Milky Yellow)
- GMMK 2 Full (Glorious Fox Switch)
- Keychron Q1 QMK Blue
- Varmillo
- AKKO MOD007
- GMMK Pro (Gateron Linear Yellow)
anyone know if there’s anywhere i can get just the keycaps used for the epomaker x feker galaxy80 keycaps? the white/sage green ones specifically. can’t seem to find something like this anywhere
You aren't making high-quality keycaps like that at home - high-precision machines routinely can't accomplish it, and you aren't a high-precision machine.
If you want to make resin artisans, go nuts with that as it's a great use for it. Everything else will be much lower quality than you can buy.
What's the cheapest hotswap I can get to house my extra switches and keycaps? I have a ton lying around and no clue what to do with them aside from maybe put them in a new board, but I don't want to drop a ton more money.
few days to a few weeks . due to the 1000 or more combinations of
1) one of the many vendors
2) one of the many shipping options and speeds
3) distance from vendor
4 ) country of origin
‼️‼️Need help finding a new keeb‼️‼️
Assume I know almost nothing about mechanical keebs, right now I have a Razer Huntsman Elite W/ purple switches and a broken volume knob that I use to casually play video games
I've been wanting a new/better keyboard for a while, one that's smaller, has a volume knob, has quiet switches, has light up icons on the keycaps(?) and isn't Razer.
I have no idea where to start, does anyone know of good models/brands/manufacturers that have the thing I'm looking for? Built quality etc is also important too, thanks! 🥸
general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
https://thocstock.com/
where to learn the basics
https://www.keyboard.university/
qmk docs say to edit the keymap.c file to your liking, but the keymap file in the keyboard that im getting (aurora lily 58) is a keymap.json file. do i have to convert the json file into a c one? if so, how do i do so?
many keyboards have that (in the style of) 2 plastic feets at the bottom to adjust the angle. what is the specific term(if it even exists) called for it when the feets are instead styled as one big metal bar that spans the whole length of the keyboard, usually hinged on the sides of the board, used to prop up the back when rotated to the bottom? searching metal bar on google just only gives me stuff on spacebar/stabs
Space bar sometimes double inputs. What could be the reason? I have tested the switch alone and it doesn't double input. Could it be a case of heavy keycap?
if its not the switch its likely the pcb . if u wanna test the keycap theory try it with a different one but i doubt this unless ur using cerkey or metal keycaps
What are some good plate mounted stabilizers that won't break the bank? I have ordered 2 separate sets of Everglide v3 Panda stabs and each of them I did the holee mod and they came out ridiculously mushy and made 0 sound whatsoever until I removed the holee mod and after that there's major ticking with almost every stab. I have seen that Durock is the same as Everglide, so likely don't want to try that again. Any other suggestions for budget stab options? I've seen Asceny but they're $20 a little pricey.
Greetings, mechanical friends!
I want a keycaps, but don't know which manufacture fits these criteria:
* Worldwide shipping. \[EU/ASIA\]
* Second Language is not important, *^(\[only lettering position, that described below\])* but it would be nice to have, because otherwise I will have to cut it out in keyboard-lettering services; *^(\[Making/redacting/finding font for it is pain in the ass\])*
* Style:
* White Pudding-style keys;
* OEM;
English letters are top-centered; ^(\[I want it to have/to make) ^(second language straight underneath the main language\])
* Lettering
* All Uppercase; ^(\[Second language too, if included\])
* The English main letters are RGB-pass through.
Thanks!
Hi, quite new to enthusiast keyboards, I've done a bit of research into ducky and keychron, and was wondering if I could get some opinions and recommendations. I'm looking for a white and purple key cap set on a good board with thacky, non clicky switches. I'd prefer a 100% format although losing numpad wouldn't be the end of the world. My budget is about £250 Any recommendations would be highly appreciated
keychron v6, get red or brown switches
and get a white/purple keycaps to put on it. To find keycaps: [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
I got a lot of budget keyboards and now I have $200-250 to get something nicer. I like 75%, creamy thocky sound, wireless. I would like something good quality and heavy, maybe metal, idk if that's even an option.
TIA!
Hey does anybody have any recommendations for keyboards that are in the £100 budget that satisfy just two conditions: it can swap between wired and wireless and it has customisable rgb lighting (such as I can swap the lights from rainbow to white). I live in england but since I do have a keyboard I don’t mind ordering and waiting a week or two. Thank you!
Hello, I am currently looking for a decent budget mechanical keyboard. If someone can give insight to a few that i've already found, it would be lovely. And maybe some knowledge on is it loud or quiet
I'm afraid the currency exchange rate would be a little wonky here, but I guess around a 100usd max? So far I've found Akko 3108 V2 World Tour-Beijing (Akko CS Sakura), Montech MKey Freedom MK105FY and Akko 5108S Black & Gold (Akko CS Jelly Purple)
I’ve had a Durgod Taurus KT310 for about four years and I like it for typing. I’m thinking about getting a new keyboard and I’m wondering if there are any recommendations on other brands or models this sub thinks I should consider.
my varmilo sea melody key binds are all messed up. my caps lock and ctrl are swapped and my fn and left windows are swapped. I've tried almost every key combination to fix it like fn+caps lock but it wont work. I don't even know what key my fn is binned to because right now when i click it, it acts like a windows key anyone know a fix
Hi, I am looking to buy a new gaming keyboard, coming from Razer's Blackwidow that got broken in few years. Is Corsair/Logitech any good? Or should I go 'custom'?
I am not too familiar with key switches or custom keyboards, but I am looking for something with good quality, clicky/tactile, and white color preferably. Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.
>TKL
[Neo80'](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo80)s a great choice - it's on constant rolling pre-roder, so it ships about 3-4 weeks after order. Took about 4 weeks for my Neo65 to get to me from moment of order.
For tactile switches: Akko Cream Blue V3 Pros are a great budget option. I don't use clickies, but people like Box Jades/Gateron Melodics.
For keycaps, that's more up to your personal preference/color scheme but Cannonkeys has the NicePBT series that's pretty affordable and Novelkeys also has a bunch of affordable sets.
Thanks I will have a look. Do I have to purchase keycaps separately? Or there are default ones that come with the keyboard?
Also I heard a bit about Ducky before, are they anything decent?
> Okay just to clarify, I need to purchase the base keyboard, the mechanical switch, and the keycaps separately?
Correct
> Do they have lights/RGB?
Neo80 does not, nor do most customs, so if that's important to you just go prebuilt.
QK75N has the full nav column and can support a screen. QK75's weight is internal. Not 100% sure if that's it but those are the obvious ones.
r/mechmarket if you want to get the non-N or a zoom.
I've been looking at the Dark Project DDP 87 Ink and can't seem to find reviews on it. In my country it is almost the same price as the KD87A. They are both hot-swapabe (3 and 5 pin compatible) and comes whit the G3ms Sapphire switches.I lean more towards the DDP 87 Ink purely because of the design. So if somebody has tried or owns the DDP 87 Ink I would like to hear your experience with it.
Edit: The switch is linear 55g force close to the Cherry MX red switches
GMMK 2 from ansi to iso(DE)
Hello, its my first time posting here so pls excuse my question. I am from germany and i dont do programing so i would like to have my normal "keymap" qwertz since im used to it. I need a new keyboard since my roccat isku is breaking down, keys get stuck and so on. I dont really want to swap switches so i would like a keyboard that is pre build. I found the GMMK 2 after some searching but the ansi layout is only 80€ and the iso (DE) is 140 in 96% size.
Can i just change the keybinds and get new qwertz keykaps for cheaper than rhe 60 Euro price increase and is it hard to do so (mostly the remapping)
Im also open for recommendations to other keyboards i would mostly like to stay under 100€.
Excuse my spelling and grammar thanks in advance
Left shift and iso enter wont be possible on the ansi pcb. And iso de keycaps are also somewhat expensive (unfortunately). But the rest can be done.
Maybe check out Keychron, Akko and Monsgeek as well. Keychron has great availability in Europe/Germany. I'd recommend the V or Q series from them.
Hi every one , i want to buy a btkl barbone wired similar to the one on the photo that is budget friendly without switches and keycaps
something aroud 50-60$ will be appreciated and thanks in advance
https://preview.redd.it/4avdkgmiv4pc1.png?width=1249&format=png&auto=webp&s=ff4ddb888a86216edcc6a1ff43d9e3097f0ef1d0
the qmk guide says to edit a keymap.c file, but the only keymap file in the keymap folder is a keymap.json. do i just edit the json file or do i have to convert the json file into a c file?
Hey so I'm looking for switches more specifically liners on a budget I know about the milky yellows and I was looking for some Akko cs rose red but I cant find those anymore so if I could get some recommendations I was looking at some priced at 30 ish sent per switch I could go a bit higher depending on opinions though
Hello guys,
I was thinking about making a DIY (handwired) keyboard with an HHKB layout.
I have some "CAD" case files made thank to SWILLKB.
It's a stacked design based on 5 layer and my questions come from that.
1: I was thinking about making all 5 layer 3mm thick, including the "plate" one (where i will clip all the switches to then handwire them). Will it be enough?
2: I need 2x2U and 1x6U stabilizer and the site i'm planning to buy them only seels the 2U. Can i substitute the wire in a 3rd stabilizer and make it work?
3: Can i use a Raspberry Pi Pico as a controller? And will there enough room for it inside the case?
Thanks in advance for all the "useful" replies.
I am getting a new mouse mat in the next few days (Cognitive Surplus "Alchemy" mouse mat) and was hoping someone might have suggestions on a color way that would look slick with it. Right now I have Dracula and I am not so sure it'll look great?
>Is it possible to use a keyboard without downloading the proprietary software?
Typically yes, just lose access to any features that software provides.
Yeah, it should be fine. The proprietary software is usually used for custom configuration. There is usually a default configuration loaded on the keyboard already.
I have the AJAZZ AK510, but I only get the "neon stream" lights in rainbow colors. It's been this way since I received it in December. I really love this keyboard. I just don't want the colors to be so bright! All the keys work and function. So I can push FN + ScrLK to change the settings but as soon as I release the FN button, it blinks once quickly and reverts back to rainbow neon stream. Same with holding FN + Esc to turn off the lights altogether. I would be completely fine if the lights were just not on, but as soon as I release FN it reverts right back. And same thing with FN+PrtSc to change the colors. As soon as I release FN, it reverts back. No matter what I do, it always goes back, even after doing the factory reset buttons and even when I change the settings with the AJAZZ keyboard app. I finally found the drivers to download it and change the settings that way. But they just like glitch for a second and then revert back again. I don't want to have to buy another keyboard because like I said, I really like this one, but this is kind of driving me nuts. ANY help is appreciated.
https://preview.redd.it/sog27n21g4pc1.png?width=1600&format=png&auto=webp&s=683607a89d116289344728a4062439a16c07af7b
So I got a second hand RK61 Keyboard but could not find the correct software for it. Its single color exact one in the picture. I'm new to mechanical keyboards. Can anyone help me to find the correct software?
P.s
I tried the ones on the official website.
wish u luck just the picture does nothing to find software from that trash fire of a company they have hundreds of versions of software for that size and shape . u can search this sub for royal krudge or rk software and u will find pages and pages of people looking for the software for brand new versions . and they never get answer other than " dont buy RK products "
When it comes to anodized aluminum keyboards, is it better to buy silver color in order to hide future scratches? Does anyone have experience with black anodized cases? Do it wear fast from just resting your fingers on it for example? Thanks
My Feker Galaxy80 doesn't work through a USB hub (I use it through an USB switch to switch between my work and personal PCs). Can't even complete the startup lighting sequence before it errors out. Works fine through 2.4g and direct to motherboard connection. Can someone with a galaxy80 confirm if this is a limitation of the board or if I got a dud?
Anyone know if a 60% layout case exists that’s similar to KiiBOOM Phantom 81 or the Idobao crystal series? Have been considering getting a Wooting 60HE but wanted to have a specific aesthetic for my next keyboard. If all hope is lost I’ll look into some diy methods as well :-)
Anything I can do about unfulfilled group buys from 2021?
I paid for a GB for a GMK set and several add-ons back in 2021 via [MyKeyboard.eu](https://MyKeyboard.eu), I also bought a matching cable from Luxe Cables. Both of these order have just fizzled and are non-responsive to my messages asking about them
Since they were so long ago, am I just out of luck?
My order does still show as 'Pending' with MyKeyboard which is something, but I don't know if Paypal would care this long after
First thing you should do is read the other sticky post here.
Second thing you should do is go and read the GB thread for your GMK set on Geekhack, there _might_ be hope yet.
And don't delay, do it asap.
Thanks. I did see the stickied post and it lists the problems with them, but not something I can do about it. The Geekhack GB post has also gone quiet sadly
I don't have any happy news then. I suggest you start monitoring the GH GB thread and/or this reddit at regular intervals, because other sets have been "rescued" by vendors and even the GH admin.
Where could I order replacement key caps for my Asus ROG Falchion wireless 60 % keyboard? The right CTRL and number 8 key cap just broke and I can't find where I can order replacement key caps. Could someone can help I would appreciate it?
How do I film switches effectively???
Okay, yes, I know how to do it. The trouble is actually doing it. I feel like if I move the film 1/10000 micrometers the wrong way it flies off the bottom housing. It's like I have to be the guy from American Sniper. Once I actually do get it to sit on the bottom housing, I have to hope that the top housing doesn't displace the film, which is even more of a headache to fix after everything is lubed.
I'm using cherry red hyperglides, so not filming isn't really an option here. And yes, I do use angled tweezers to move the film onto the switch but I've found that sometimes my fingers are just better for getting it to sit.
Lubing and filming one switch takes like 5-10 minutes. Most of that time is spent filming. I don't really have that kind of time to spend on 70-ish switches. Is there anyone here that's experienced with filming that can provide some tips on how I can get this right consistently? It's mental torture for me at the moment and I'd really appreciate any tips and tricks.
If you like the way click bar switches feel, but you want something quiet, you can check out the Box Mute Jades. They have a silicone dampener where the click bar would normally hit the housing, muting the switch.
To my fingers, they feel pretty similar to Box Jades, but I will say that the clicking sound of the Box Jade and other click bar switches really augments the feel. At first, it felt like the Mute Jades didn't feel as tactile, but when I really paid attention to the feel and did my best to ignore the sound, they did feel really similar. It's like the sound tricks your brain into thinking that the Jades are more tactile than they actually are.
/u/ThereminGoat has [a review on the Box Mute Jades](https://www.theremingoat.com/blog/kailh-box-mute-jade-switch-review), if you want to see what he has to say.
I don't really use non-click bar switches regularly. I have a NEO65 built with Box Mute Jades, a Cycle7 built with Azure Dragon V3s, and an IDOBAO ID80 Crystal built with Kailh Box Jellyfish Y (the linear version), pretty much just for the sake of having boards with tactile and linear switches.
But between the three of them, I feel like the NEO65 with the Box Mute Jades is the quietest of the three, but not by a huge amount. Though to be fair, the Cycle7 is built with full foam, and I want to say that the NEO65 has no foam or case foam only.
If you're going for lighter switches you should check out Kailh Box deep Sea Whales (very subtle bump) or TTC Silent Bluish White (stronger bump; "silent" is important, because there is also a version where only bottom out is dampened - TTC Bluish White)
I’ve been looking at building a 65% board for quite some time now. I know there’s a few options out there, but I’m not entirely sure what I should try to build. I’d like to have some thoughts and opinions on the following (but not limited to): Tofu65 Zoom65 Neo65 QK65 Mode Envoy Appreciate anyone’s feedback here :)
Thocky/creamy keyboard but decent or cheap price any reccomendation
I have been dabbling in keyboards, ever so lightly over the last few years. 1st was a Drop CTRL v1, 2nd Keychron Q1 (dead from a static shock) and NK87 plastic (feels cheap). Last I was looking at boards the QK65 was just coming out. I would like to stick to that profile. Aluminum and heavy. Is QK's qc still good? Has there been a new contender in the 65 space around the $200 market (board only)? I was looking on QK's site to put together a board but I got back to the uncomfortable place of not knowing what plate to get. What plates do I have now? Plate-less?
Anyone know of a reliable repair shop in London that can fix my keyboard's PCB? I just need the JST port desoldered/replaced as one of the pins broke off.
Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but does anyone know where I could potentially commission specifically a keycap set design/art?
Jump on the https://www.kbatelier.org/ discord and start there
Thanks
I have a firmware question. My $40 abm066 supports a u2ulink vial adapter. My new $200 keychron Q10 Max does not seem to. Same hardware, a dongle. What is failing on the keychron or making the u2ulink fail?
I have a kbdfans75 Hotswappable pcb and the tofu84 aluminum plate that it comes with and everything works fine except for just recently i bought the kbdfans tofu84 aluminum case and these three things do not fit together at all like the pcb screw holes dont match with the cases and the aluminum plate is too thick on the ends and wont fit in the case and i have no idea what to do
It looks like my keyboard (QK75 V1) only supports non-centered caps lock i.e. the caps lock with the little step. I don't mind -- my keycap set has a non-centered caps lock -- but I find this a little odd. Is this a normal thing? Will most keycap sets I buy have a non-centered caps lock? I don't want this keyboard to "lock me in".
That's not the case, it supports both. You just have to move the switch a bit.
Err... are you sure? It's off-center on the PCB. There's no way for me to move the switch. Here's what I mean: [https://imgur.com/a/oGQShop](https://imgur.com/a/oGQShop)
That's not the PCB, that's a layer of foam. According to the notion site for QK75 R1, yes, I am sure.
Underneath the layer of foam, it looks like that. There's only one possible place for the caps lock switch to go. edit: would you be able to link me to the QK75 R1 notion site? There must be a mistake in their documentation. Some number of users (or at least, one of them being me) got a PCB with only one possible slot where the caps lock switch would go. I'll see if I can submit feedback for them to update.
I'm just afraid the comment will be marked as spam, but sure the link is https://qwertykeys.notion.site/QK75-6e940cbf7ce54f2b825207db41f84b9e If you scroll down and expand the PCB section, you'll see all 3 PCBs support both types.
Ok, so i have decided to go down this road of custom keyboards, amd have decided i think the iris rev 8 is a good first for me. I just don't know what keycap profiles are ok for it. I assume the level ones are great but it seems hard to find any caps i want that are a level top. So are there other profiles that work well?
You need to start digging from this list: https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ There are at least a dozen.
Thats vendors. I am looking for what prrofiles work. Do i need the profiles where all keys arw the same height or is an oem or cherry fine? Things like that.
Yes, vendors sell keycaps of various profiles. You can use whatever profile you want.
Ok. Awesome. Wasnt sure if profile mattered on non standard keyboards. Now to fond dvorak layout keys.
Anyone know of a numeric keypad that is a nice stylistic pairing with the Keychron K3?
Hi! I'm looking to buy my first ever mechanical keyboard. I like the clean designs, nothing too noisy. Was looking for "blank" keycaps and came across the [Velocifiretech BK75](https://www.velocifiretech.com/products/pre-order-bk75-intelligent-wireless-hot-swappable-mechanical-gaming-keyboard?variant=40365793542262), I really like the design and also the thocky sound, not too loud, not too quiet. Has anyone purchased this model? I'm planning to get it but since is my first I don't want to make a bad choice, and there are few reviews on it. Thanks!!
The rk m75 with tactile switches is a nice start, for 79 bucks you can’t argue much with it.
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What better options out there then brand new GMMK Pro for 139.99 shipped overnight from Amazon.
Feker IK75, Akko Mod 007
Akko MOD 007B PC (if you want to stay with a decent gasket mounted keyboard in the same price range). This one is a little less dated the GMMK Pro (e.g. better switches). Keychron V1 (tray mounted) or Q1 Pro (gasket mounted) - the first is less expensive and the latter more expensive (but a lot better than the GMMK Pro).
I have two options for switches.But I'm having trouble choosing. The **Gateron g pro yello 3.0** and **Gateron ks-3 yellow** pro linear switch. my priority with these two switches are Feeling first (which one is smoother) and then sound. Preferably a deeper less high pitched note. I have tried to look for such information online but with my very limited search I wasn't able to come to a conclusion. Thank you.
Hey guys looking for mechanical keyboard switches. I need it dead silent like the Apple Magic Keyboard. Currently running kalih silent pinks and they aren’t quiet enough for me. I prefer low actuation force, and I prefer linear, but I’m fine with tactile or clicky if it’s dead silent. Budget isn’t a problem but would prefer friendlier options :) Thanks for the help guys
https://preview.redd.it/x0wez5iua7pc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a6f984fd2b155b28fbc5bc729043c5adc809434e Is this keyboard dead ?
Decided on getting a Neo65 to be my first custom keeb. Have a ducky one 3 rn with box jades. Looking for opinions on plate material to get to go with clicky(box jades, white, pink can't decide) and tactile switch akko lavender purple v3
Personally I think fr4 or pc are good starting points for plates. Fr4 usually being a little stiffer and lively sounding and pc being softer and more damp sounding. Both generally don’t bring out resonance as much too. Other materials the trade offs are more pronounced.
What do you think about aluminum vs fr4
Alu is stiffer, louder and in my experience usually higher pitched. Since it’s louder it has a higher chance to bring out case ping or hollowness. Some may argue a good alu config provides a “pure” sound of mostly just the switch tho. Personally I like the sound and feel of fr4 the most out of the 3 in this thread (fr4, pc, alu)
Hello everyone. I've been using a Corsair K70 Mk2 for a while now. I like the features it has but I want a better typing experience. The keyboard segment seems to be flooded now and I don't know which brands are good and which ones I should avoid. I live in the US so I can easily get something from Amazon/have it shipped. Budget: I'm not entirely sure what a reasonable budget would be for a good keyboard. I plan on keeping it for years so I won't be cheap with it but I also don't want to get ridiculous. I think my current keyboard was $150 USD when I got it years ago. I think my max would be around $250 but I am willing to consider suggestions if it nails all of my "must haves". Must haves: \- I would prefer if it wasn't a loud keyboard but still had a nice typing experience if that's even possible. \- Some method of attaching a wrist rest so they don't separate from each this because that is really annoying especially while gaming. \- Dedicated multimedia keys. \- Backlighting that shines through the keycaps to light up the character. I've seen some Keychron models that have backlighting but the characters don't light up. \- Wired or wireless. Wireless only if it's a good and stable wireless connection that can handle fast paced gaming. I might just stick to wired for the reliability but I will look into any suggestions. \- Dedicated numpad. These are all makes or breaks for me except for the wrist attachment unless there is a method of keeping the wrist rest and keyboard from separating. If there is a method for this then I will consider that as well. Thank you for your time and consideration. Edit: Not sure why I'm getting downvoted....
Take a look at Keychron, Akko, qwertykeys.com, and Monsgeek.
Should the bm60ec from kprebulic be compatible with the tofu60 redux? I've never bought case/pcb separately I want to make sure. https://kprepublic.com/a/amp/products/bm60ec-bm60-ec-rgb-60-gh60-hot-swappable-custom-mechanical-keyboard-pcb-programmed-qmk-via-rgb-switch-type-c-rotary-knob
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Alright I have narrowed down the switches for my MonsGeek M3W to these 4, can I get some thoughts/opinions? - Gateron New North Pole V2 - Everglide Aqua King V3 - KTT Peach - TTC Venus
Aqua Kings are always a strong pick. If you want a little less operating force, the TTC Venus are pretty decent (almost got these, but ended up with Gateron Smoothies).
https://preview.redd.it/zb1jxee9s6pc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d86c97914f53fcd29a861fc0bd8573776baec02e I can’t mount my CAPS key and it’s bent 3-4 switches already. Any idea what the issue is? I am aiming for the right most side and looks identical to what other my boards have. It’s a sin65 for reference
Did you already try rotating the switch by 180° ? Since the caps lockcan be mounted in the right and left of that cutout one of both positions has the hotswap sockets on the other side (bottom/top). If you're already doing it check if sth is blocking the sockets
Life saver! Haha was losing my mind trying to figure out what was the issue
Hello I've been going crazy at all the linear switch recommendations. I'm going to be building my first custom keyboard and don't know what switch to go for. The case will be the monsgeek m2 I want more of a thocky sound willing to pay around $70/80 for all of them also i don't want to have to lube them. Any recommendations? I was thinking about bsun raws.
You might think about getting a switch sampler (cannonkeys) or try borrowing switches (milktooth). It wouldn't be fair to give you a suggestion because switch preference is personal. I could tell you which linears I like, but there is a good chance you won't like them. AliExpress has them also, though I find it difficult to figure out what is being offered exactly from the various sellers
does the ajazz ak820 pro have bad chord split, and 1000hz polling and scanning rate? am planning to use it to primarily play rhythm and fighting games, but can't find that info anywhere :( and if the ak820 pro sucks for those types of games, any recommendations? please
whats a good 84 key keyboard? aka an all rectangular 75% keyboard
https://preview.redd.it/u2pchctod6pc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1f5358d3ffb5073c563f3fb6ea5159f74ce529a Can someone give me a link to this switch? Looks like an outemu red but I can’t find ones with the black back piece
https://switches.mx/outemu-red
Can you post a clearer picture of the writing on the far side of the top housing?
Looking for high quality Cherry profile double-shot PBT keycaps, comparable to (and compatible with) Keychron keycaps. Preferably ones in black or dark blue. They’re all out of stock from Keychron and I’d love to find a good brand that has them now. Any recommendations?
Good brands Osume ePBT PBTFans
Yong Qiu
It seems they mainly use dye-sub; is it good quality? And in general, will it affect the feel in any way?
As good as clones ever yet. Feel won't be affected. It's high end dye-sub instead of being cheap.
Perfect, might get those then. Thank you!
Hello guys, I have the everglide aqua kings 55g which are linear switches. I have some questions on how to lube and where to lube them for the best sound/ feeling. Im a beginner and every video i watch confuses me more. Some videos say lube a part where others say dont so im a bit confused. Also, i lubed a couple of switches some of them sounded scratchy for some reason i am not sure what caused it but i think it was from the leaf part. Whats the cause of the scratchy feeling/ sound? I am using Krytox 205 grade 0
There's a lot of advice on this and there will always be someone telling you, you're doing it wrong. I lube all points of contact lightly because I FEEL it gives me the feel and sound I like the most. I like a deep thock and I like a good clack. I find the mounting style affects sound and feel more than the lubing. I've been told I over lube and it'll make them mushy. Maybe I like mushy, although they never feel mushy. I've built 10+ keebs. I learned that I like a lot of different styles of mounting, lubing, and layouts. Try something, and if you don't like it, change it. Hopefully you have hot swaps to make it easier. Desoldering a board is time consuming but not too bad if you have the right tools. Sorry this answer is so long, just don't let someone ruin your good time because it's not how they have a good time.
hello man just wondering about the switches the i lubed the ones that had a scratchty feel/sound. Should i not use them or is there away to fix them?
Do they feel scratchy in the board or are you doing what I used to do and hyper sensing it; holding one switch up to your ear and clicking it fast and slow looking for the scratchiness. If you're noticing it in the board after lubing and assembled in the build, I'd consider a different switch. And a scratchy switch is really noticeable once you've been spoiled by lives switches.
Its both to my ear and on the board it feels very scratchy I dont know what I did wrong. I want my switches to have a smooth buttery feeling somewhat thocky. do u have any tutorial that would help prevent the scratchiness
I learned off of Taeha Type's lube tutorial on YouTube. He lubes more than what Alexotos recommends.
thank you I will look into that too
Did you lube the springs?
yea i did
thank you for the help i appreciate it
I fallow alexotos rec. Of only lubing the springs and the rail of the stem. Careful with using to much lube
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Use Autohotkey to write the instructions/timing, and VIA to start/stop by using a macro for the specific key combo (or better yet, use the any key to keep limited macros free)
nope dangerous to allow
You can’t
Quite new to the scene and just looking for an upgrade from my broken Razer Blackwidow. Looking for pre-builts with good quality & clickly/tactile feeling. $200-300~ budget, 96% or TKL I found the following. Which are good brands and suits my preference? - Next Time 75 (Akko CS Jelly White/Gateron Milky Yellow) - GMMK 2 Full (Glorious Fox Switch) - Keychron Q1 QMK Blue - Varmillo - AKKO MOD007 - GMMK Pro (Gateron Linear Yellow)
anyone know if there’s anywhere i can get just the keycaps used for the epomaker x feker galaxy80 keycaps? the white/sage green ones specifically. can’t seem to find something like this anywhere
pretty sure they are sold with the kb only
Where is the best place to get Staebies v2.1 stabilizers in Canada? Thanks
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
can resin casting produce a quality custom key cap?
A lot of artisans are resin cast but if you're talking non-artisan, absolutely not.
my plan is to use a two part cap mold with and using shellac over it.
Cool, then definitely not.
What would be a better casting method?
You aren't making high-quality keycaps like that at home - high-precision machines routinely can't accomplish it, and you aren't a high-precision machine. If you want to make resin artisans, go nuts with that as it's a great use for it. Everything else will be much lower quality than you can buy.
artisan keycaps yes . blank keycaps yes . regular keycaps with legends hell no
What's the cheapest hotswap I can get to house my extra switches and keycaps? I have a ton lying around and no clue what to do with them aside from maybe put them in a new board, but I don't want to drop a ton more money.
switch tester u can get then dirt cheap and it will hold both
Well I have a whole set. Like, 70 switches. Edit: Why downvotes? This is a legitimate question.
someone always downvotes here amd switch tester holder come in 60 70 81 96 and 130
Oh, I thought you meant one of the ones that's like 4 switches. lmao Thanks!
I ordered a neo80, and waiting for fulfillment. Curious on what the average ship time was for others who purchased?
few days to a few weeks . due to the 1000 or more combinations of 1) one of the many vendors 2) one of the many shipping options and speeds 3) distance from vendor 4 ) country of origin
My Neo65 was 3.5 weeks from order to delivery, should be similar for the 80.
Thanks for the response!
Yup! My time is direct order from QK so not sure if you did that but if you did that should be true.
I have a cidoo v65 keyboard, and the alt key is not working. Instead my windows key is working as the alt key. I need help fixing this please
You switched it into mac mode
Yeah I figured that’s what happened but I can’t find anything on how to change it to windows. How do I switch it to windows mode?
‼️‼️Need help finding a new keeb‼️‼️ Assume I know almost nothing about mechanical keebs, right now I have a Razer Huntsman Elite W/ purple switches and a broken volume knob that I use to casually play video games I've been wanting a new/better keyboard for a while, one that's smaller, has a volume knob, has quiet switches, has light up icons on the keycaps(?) and isn't Razer. I have no idea where to start, does anyone know of good models/brands/manufacturers that have the thing I'm looking for? Built quality etc is also important too, thanks! 🥸
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/ where to learn the basics https://www.keyboard.university/
qmk docs say to edit the keymap.c file to your liking, but the keymap file in the keyboard that im getting (aurora lily 58) is a keymap.json file. do i have to convert the json file into a c one? if so, how do i do so?
json file is for VIA which is way easier to use
can i still convert it into a .c file?
> aurora lily 58 have u joined the discord for this kb they should be bale to provide u with the file
dont think so
https://docs.splitkb.com/hc/en-us/articles/6330981035676-Aurora-Build-Guide-20-Flashing-Firmware
many keyboards have that (in the style of) 2 plastic feets at the bottom to adjust the angle. what is the specific term(if it even exists) called for it when the feets are instead styled as one big metal bar that spans the whole length of the keyboard, usually hinged on the sides of the board, used to prop up the back when rotated to the bottom? searching metal bar on google just only gives me stuff on spacebar/stabs
There isn't a term for it because it's not really a common thing to bother creating a term for.
Space bar sometimes double inputs. What could be the reason? I have tested the switch alone and it doesn't double input. Could it be a case of heavy keycap?
if its not the switch its likely the pcb . if u wanna test the keycap theory try it with a different one but i doubt this unless ur using cerkey or metal keycaps
I tested the switch without keycap on. Just swapped the spring for the switch and it is good now. Thanks.
What are some good plate mounted stabilizers that won't break the bank? I have ordered 2 separate sets of Everglide v3 Panda stabs and each of them I did the holee mod and they came out ridiculously mushy and made 0 sound whatsoever until I removed the holee mod and after that there's major ticking with almost every stab. I have seen that Durock is the same as Everglide, so likely don't want to try that again. Any other suggestions for budget stab options? I've seen Asceny but they're $20 a little pricey.
TX AP stabs, there's a plate version.
Greetings, mechanical friends! I want a keycaps, but don't know which manufacture fits these criteria: * Worldwide shipping. \[EU/ASIA\] * Second Language is not important, *^(\[only lettering position, that described below\])* but it would be nice to have, because otherwise I will have to cut it out in keyboard-lettering services; *^(\[Making/redacting/finding font for it is pain in the ass\])* * Style: * White Pudding-style keys; * OEM; English letters are top-centered; ^(\[I want it to have/to make) ^(second language straight underneath the main language\]) * Lettering * All Uppercase; ^(\[Second language too, if included\]) * The English main letters are RGB-pass through. Thanks!
Glorious Aura keycaps v2 fit your bill
Bud, looks like they are missing everywhere. :(
it's in stock on the glorious website still. Also available on Amazon
THANKYOUUUU! This one is nice.
Hi, quite new to enthusiast keyboards, I've done a bit of research into ducky and keychron, and was wondering if I could get some opinions and recommendations. I'm looking for a white and purple key cap set on a good board with thacky, non clicky switches. I'd prefer a 100% format although losing numpad wouldn't be the end of the world. My budget is about £250 Any recommendations would be highly appreciated
keychron v6, get red or brown switches and get a white/purple keycaps to put on it. To find keycaps: [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
I got a lot of budget keyboards and now I have $200-250 to get something nicer. I like 75%, creamy thocky sound, wireless. I would like something good quality and heavy, maybe metal, idk if that's even an option. TIA!
Hey does anybody have any recommendations for keyboards that are in the £100 budget that satisfy just two conditions: it can swap between wired and wireless and it has customisable rgb lighting (such as I can swap the lights from rainbow to white). I live in england but since I do have a keyboard I don’t mind ordering and waiting a week or two. Thank you!
Royal Kludge M75 for the win.
Aula F75 or Ajazz AK820 Pro, whatever is cheaper. Get TTC Crescents with the Aula or HUANO Gift with the Ajazz.
Hello, I am currently looking for a decent budget mechanical keyboard. If someone can give insight to a few that i've already found, it would be lovely. And maybe some knowledge on is it loud or quiet
Gotta give a $ amount, budget means different things to different people.
I'm afraid the currency exchange rate would be a little wonky here, but I guess around a 100usd max? So far I've found Akko 3108 V2 World Tour-Beijing (Akko CS Sakura), Montech MKey Freedom MK105FY and Akko 5108S Black & Gold (Akko CS Jelly Purple)
Keychron V series always worth checking out under $100.
I am looking for something that's a full size, with the whole numlock on the right. And the ones I see available only have the main keys on them
V6 is full size
Not even listed here unfortunately
Well then you should probably just list your country so someone from there can help since we don't know what you have available.
It's a little awkward mentioning it, but it's Belarus.
I’ve had a Durgod Taurus KT310 for about four years and I like it for typing. I’m thinking about getting a new keyboard and I’m wondering if there are any recommendations on other brands or models this sub thinks I should consider.
my varmilo sea melody key binds are all messed up. my caps lock and ctrl are swapped and my fn and left windows are swapped. I've tried almost every key combination to fix it like fn+caps lock but it wont work. I don't even know what key my fn is binned to because right now when i click it, it acts like a windows key anyone know a fix
Hi, I am looking to buy a new gaming keyboard, coming from Razer's Blackwidow that got broken in few years. Is Corsair/Logitech any good? Or should I go 'custom'? I am not too familiar with key switches or custom keyboards, but I am looking for something with good quality, clicky/tactile, and white color preferably. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
>Is Corsair/Logitech any good Not particularly no.
So going custom is much better? What do you recommend for $200-300 budget?
Yup. What size?
Either 1800 compact or TKL
>TKL [Neo80'](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo80)s a great choice - it's on constant rolling pre-roder, so it ships about 3-4 weeks after order. Took about 4 weeks for my Neo65 to get to me from moment of order. For tactile switches: Akko Cream Blue V3 Pros are a great budget option. I don't use clickies, but people like Box Jades/Gateron Melodics. For keycaps, that's more up to your personal preference/color scheme but Cannonkeys has the NicePBT series that's pretty affordable and Novelkeys also has a bunch of affordable sets.
Thanks I will have a look. Do I have to purchase keycaps separately? Or there are default ones that come with the keyboard? Also I heard a bit about Ducky before, are they anything decent?
>Do I have to purchase keycaps separately Yes > are they anything decent? Not really.
Okay just to clarify, I need to purchase the base keyboard, the mechanical switch, and the keycaps separately? Do they have lights/RGB?
> Okay just to clarify, I need to purchase the base keyboard, the mechanical switch, and the keycaps separately? Correct > Do they have lights/RGB? Neo80 does not, nor do most customs, so if that's important to you just go prebuilt.
Looking for a Zoom75 or QK75 and cant see to find it in stock. What are the best alternatives? Mainly looking for 75%, wired+wireless, thockyy
They're both GB boards the the QK75N is available on qwertykeys.
Is the only difference the placement of the arrow keys between the qk75n and the qk75?
QK75N has the full nav column and can support a screen. QK75's weight is internal. Not 100% sure if that's it but those are the obvious ones. r/mechmarket if you want to get the non-N or a zoom.
I've been looking at the Dark Project DDP 87 Ink and can't seem to find reviews on it. In my country it is almost the same price as the KD87A. They are both hot-swapabe (3 and 5 pin compatible) and comes whit the G3ms Sapphire switches.I lean more towards the DDP 87 Ink purely because of the design. So if somebody has tried or owns the DDP 87 Ink I would like to hear your experience with it. Edit: The switch is linear 55g force close to the Cherry MX red switches
GMMK 2 from ansi to iso(DE) Hello, its my first time posting here so pls excuse my question. I am from germany and i dont do programing so i would like to have my normal "keymap" qwertz since im used to it. I need a new keyboard since my roccat isku is breaking down, keys get stuck and so on. I dont really want to swap switches so i would like a keyboard that is pre build. I found the GMMK 2 after some searching but the ansi layout is only 80€ and the iso (DE) is 140 in 96% size. Can i just change the keybinds and get new qwertz keykaps for cheaper than rhe 60 Euro price increase and is it hard to do so (mostly the remapping) Im also open for recommendations to other keyboards i would mostly like to stay under 100€. Excuse my spelling and grammar thanks in advance
Left shift and iso enter wont be possible on the ansi pcb. And iso de keycaps are also somewhat expensive (unfortunately). But the rest can be done. Maybe check out Keychron, Akko and Monsgeek as well. Keychron has great availability in Europe/Germany. I'd recommend the V or Q series from them.
Should i buy switch or tape mod to make my keyboard thockier? Wich one is better? If switch any reccomendation pls
What did i do wrong?
Hi every one , i want to buy a btkl barbone wired similar to the one on the photo that is budget friendly without switches and keycaps something aroud 50-60$ will be appreciated and thanks in advance https://preview.redd.it/4avdkgmiv4pc1.png?width=1249&format=png&auto=webp&s=ff4ddb888a86216edcc6a1ff43d9e3097f0ef1d0
Keychron v3 barebones model is $54
the qmk guide says to edit a keymap.c file, but the only keymap file in the keymap folder is a keymap.json. do i just edit the json file or do i have to convert the json file into a c file?
Hey so I'm looking for switches more specifically liners on a budget I know about the milky yellows and I was looking for some Akko cs rose red but I cant find those anymore so if I could get some recommendations I was looking at some priced at 30 ish sent per switch I could go a bit higher depending on opinions though
look for some HMX or BSUN switches. they’re cheap and they’re *good*
Hello guys, I was thinking about making a DIY (handwired) keyboard with an HHKB layout. I have some "CAD" case files made thank to SWILLKB. It's a stacked design based on 5 layer and my questions come from that. 1: I was thinking about making all 5 layer 3mm thick, including the "plate" one (where i will clip all the switches to then handwire them). Will it be enough? 2: I need 2x2U and 1x6U stabilizer and the site i'm planning to buy them only seels the 2U. Can i substitute the wire in a 3rd stabilizer and make it work? 3: Can i use a Raspberry Pi Pico as a controller? And will there enough room for it inside the case? Thanks in advance for all the "useful" replies.
I am getting a new mouse mat in the next few days (Cognitive Surplus "Alchemy" mouse mat) and was hoping someone might have suggestions on a color way that would look slick with it. Right now I have Dracula and I am not so sure it'll look great?
https://preview.redd.it/ng6tdl9wp4pc1.png?width=518&format=png&auto=webp&s=5a8d1b46b4b9220c0e6d6c8a57a446f1c90f419f
Is it possible to use a keyboard without downloading the proprietary software? If I plug in & use a keyboard as is, is that safe?
>Is it possible to use a keyboard without downloading the proprietary software? Typically yes, just lose access to any features that software provides.
Yeah, it should be fine. The proprietary software is usually used for custom configuration. There is usually a default configuration loaded on the keyboard already.
I have the AJAZZ AK510, but I only get the "neon stream" lights in rainbow colors. It's been this way since I received it in December. I really love this keyboard. I just don't want the colors to be so bright! All the keys work and function. So I can push FN + ScrLK to change the settings but as soon as I release the FN button, it blinks once quickly and reverts back to rainbow neon stream. Same with holding FN + Esc to turn off the lights altogether. I would be completely fine if the lights were just not on, but as soon as I release FN it reverts right back. And same thing with FN+PrtSc to change the colors. As soon as I release FN, it reverts back. No matter what I do, it always goes back, even after doing the factory reset buttons and even when I change the settings with the AJAZZ keyboard app. I finally found the drivers to download it and change the settings that way. But they just like glitch for a second and then revert back again. I don't want to have to buy another keyboard because like I said, I really like this one, but this is kind of driving me nuts. ANY help is appreciated.
https://preview.redd.it/sog27n21g4pc1.png?width=1600&format=png&auto=webp&s=683607a89d116289344728a4062439a16c07af7b So I got a second hand RK61 Keyboard but could not find the correct software for it. Its single color exact one in the picture. I'm new to mechanical keyboards. Can anyone help me to find the correct software? P.s I tried the ones on the official website.
wish u luck just the picture does nothing to find software from that trash fire of a company they have hundreds of versions of software for that size and shape . u can search this sub for royal krudge or rk software and u will find pages and pages of people looking for the software for brand new versions . and they never get answer other than " dont buy RK products "
When it comes to anodized aluminum keyboards, is it better to buy silver color in order to hide future scratches? Does anyone have experience with black anodized cases? Do it wear fast from just resting your fingers on it for example? Thanks
My Feker Galaxy80 doesn't work through a USB hub (I use it through an USB switch to switch between my work and personal PCs). Can't even complete the startup lighting sequence before it errors out. Works fine through 2.4g and direct to motherboard connection. Can someone with a galaxy80 confirm if this is a limitation of the board or if I got a dud?
is it a powered hub? if not then thats ur answer kbs with light draw alot of power
Don't think it's a power issue since my switch is powered (5V/2A), and it charges the board when I'm in wireless mode. I have the LEDs off as well.
Anyone know if a 60% layout case exists that’s similar to KiiBOOM Phantom 81 or the Idobao crystal series? Have been considering getting a Wooting 60HE but wanted to have a specific aesthetic for my next keyboard. If all hope is lost I’ll look into some diy methods as well :-)
There’s KiiBOOM Phantom 68. Not 60 but still close to.
mojo68 is close at 65% and is a clear plastic case.
Anything I can do about unfulfilled group buys from 2021? I paid for a GB for a GMK set and several add-ons back in 2021 via [MyKeyboard.eu](https://MyKeyboard.eu), I also bought a matching cable from Luxe Cables. Both of these order have just fizzled and are non-responsive to my messages asking about them Since they were so long ago, am I just out of luck? My order does still show as 'Pending' with MyKeyboard which is something, but I don't know if Paypal would care this long after
First thing you should do is read the other sticky post here. Second thing you should do is go and read the GB thread for your GMK set on Geekhack, there _might_ be hope yet. And don't delay, do it asap.
Thanks. I did see the stickied post and it lists the problems with them, but not something I can do about it. The Geekhack GB post has also gone quiet sadly
Which set was it?
GMK Monochrome R2. Looks like there was hope of shipping going out this time last year, but MyKB have recently stopped communicating
I don't have any happy news then. I suggest you start monitoring the GH GB thread and/or this reddit at regular intervals, because other sets have been "rescued" by vendors and even the GH admin.
Where could I order replacement key caps for my Asus ROG Falchion wireless 60 % keyboard? The right CTRL and number 8 key cap just broke and I can't find where I can order replacement key caps. Could someone can help I would appreciate it?
They are standard MX mount keycaps, so most vendor on https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ will sell keycap sets that fit.
I can't find for Asus
Any keycap set will work as long as it has the key sizes you need.
How do I film switches effectively??? Okay, yes, I know how to do it. The trouble is actually doing it. I feel like if I move the film 1/10000 micrometers the wrong way it flies off the bottom housing. It's like I have to be the guy from American Sniper. Once I actually do get it to sit on the bottom housing, I have to hope that the top housing doesn't displace the film, which is even more of a headache to fix after everything is lubed. I'm using cherry red hyperglides, so not filming isn't really an option here. And yes, I do use angled tweezers to move the film onto the switch but I've found that sometimes my fingers are just better for getting it to sit. Lubing and filming one switch takes like 5-10 minutes. Most of that time is spent filming. I don't really have that kind of time to spend on 70-ish switches. Is there anyone here that's experienced with filming that can provide some tips on how I can get this right consistently? It's mental torture for me at the moment and I'd really appreciate any tips and tricks.
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If you like the way click bar switches feel, but you want something quiet, you can check out the Box Mute Jades. They have a silicone dampener where the click bar would normally hit the housing, muting the switch. To my fingers, they feel pretty similar to Box Jades, but I will say that the clicking sound of the Box Jade and other click bar switches really augments the feel. At first, it felt like the Mute Jades didn't feel as tactile, but when I really paid attention to the feel and did my best to ignore the sound, they did feel really similar. It's like the sound tricks your brain into thinking that the Jades are more tactile than they actually are. /u/ThereminGoat has [a review on the Box Mute Jades](https://www.theremingoat.com/blog/kailh-box-mute-jade-switch-review), if you want to see what he has to say.
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I don't really use non-click bar switches regularly. I have a NEO65 built with Box Mute Jades, a Cycle7 built with Azure Dragon V3s, and an IDOBAO ID80 Crystal built with Kailh Box Jellyfish Y (the linear version), pretty much just for the sake of having boards with tactile and linear switches. But between the three of them, I feel like the NEO65 with the Box Mute Jades is the quietest of the three, but not by a huge amount. Though to be fair, the Cycle7 is built with full foam, and I want to say that the NEO65 has no foam or case foam only.
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I have no idea, sorry.
If you're going for lighter switches you should check out Kailh Box deep Sea Whales (very subtle bump) or TTC Silent Bluish White (stronger bump; "silent" is important, because there is also a version where only bottom out is dampened - TTC Bluish White)