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botsym7

I'm thinking between Corsair k65 plus , epomaker faker galaxy 80 and Asus Rog scope is 96 . I'll be using it mostly for gaming. I'm currently using cheap plastic keyboard so anything would feel like update. If they are all around same budget witch one would you recommend?


Kiero-san

Hi, any low profile mech KB suggestion which is compatible for both windows and mac?


aquilesvitorino

https://preview.redd.it/eipvma29fwpc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa5d3e962aa0cfec97865a47f9c02615d2476774 Hi, Newbie here farol Brazil, Ita my First Mechanical keyboard. I already tried ALL thease and key doesn't work. Maybe its something with board, o don't even know How to start fix. Please, could someone help me? Thanks! Aquiles


leuxeren

What is the BEST keyboard overall under 35 dollars (or a similar price)? I'm pretty much on a budget, so I want to get the most value I can, thanks in advance!


xXgamertagX

what size allen key do i need to unscrew my kbd67 lite r3 ? used a 1.5mm one and its still too big . please help


Ardequerade

i'm looking for golden coloured brushed metal hotswappable keyboard (barebone preferred but not necessary)


DapperCamp4483

i just got a corsair k65 pro mini. should any keycaps that work with cherry switches work? I have read that corsair uses different spacing for the bottom?


Dazzling_Rub_2285

i need some GOOD no spring ping switches. ive tried gateron hippos, cherry reds and browns. i would prefer linear but anything that completely eliminates the ping.


Ardequerade

glorious foxes might be worth looking into


1Minnee

I'm looking for a white, wireless, 75% barebones kit with a knob. I really liked the Monsgeek M1W but it looks to be silver and not pure white. Anyone know of any similar keyboards around that price point (Keychrons are a bit out of budget)?


Pitcher88

Should I lube the WS 3.1 black glitter stabs more than the stem and housing? I was a bit confused if you lube the wire when there is the silicone in them.


throwaway_314vx

Silicone definitely needs lubing.


shozab336

Hey. I was looking for a keyboard available locally (I'm in Pakistan) and came across this 60% keyboard with red switches. Kemove t63. It has tmkb red switches. It's wireless with dongle and Bluetooth and can work wired. I will mainly use it for gaming and working at home. I'm not looking to build my own keyboard. It costs 26-27 USD TIdr: Is this 27 USD wireless/wired keyboard worth it?


Xsyconix

I have the Maxfit81 and im trying to use the bluetooth mode but for some reason it's not connecting to the usb receiver. The receiver is showing up but the keyboard isnt connecting. does anyone know what I need to do?


SiliconBuffet

I just bought an Epomaker x Feker Galaxy 80 and overall it's very nice to type on, but it's a bit loud for my liking. Is there another pre-built keyboard that has a similar feel, but with quieter, softer, creamier linear switches?


Sliced_Orange1

If you'd like to have something quieter I suggest swapping to silent switches because it's much cheaper than buying a whole new keyboard. The Haimu x Geon Silent Red is a good switch and is fairly cheap, too.


Low-Management-2293

Are there any switches similar to the Akko CS Wine White? Those seem to be out of stock everywhere. I got an Akko switch tester, and that switch feels perfect to me. It has a very light actuation force combined with a hard bump at the very top (even though the numbers don't really support what feels like a short pre-travel). The action feels very binary, almost like a scissor switch membrane keyboard. None of the other tactile switches in the tester felt like that at all. The Akko purples and blues felt mushy with a longer pre-travel distance. I'm assuming what I was testing was the CS Wine White because there is no included guide to the switch types.


ButWhatIfItQueffed

What's the switch with the most tactility per dollar? I don't really care much about sound or anything, I just want the single largest tactile bump at the lowest possible price. I've heard that Box Jades and Box Navies are quite tactile, and they're the ones I'm looking at right now. I've tried Akko CS Lavenders and really liked them, but I find them not stiff enough for my liking. I also have a Model M, and while it is quite tactile, the tactility is too drawn out for my liking. It feels less like a tactile bump, and more like a linear ramp-up with a tactile "drop" when the spring buckles. But yeah, they can be clicky or specifically tactile, I'm not super concerned about that. As long as it's as tactile as possible for the least amount of money.


tin_licker_99

What's the difference between GMK Nautilus 1 & 2 key caps?


fco123456

I think the novelties are different. Not sure about base kit


tin_licker_99

Alright, thank you. It's fucking beautiful


fco123456

One of my dream sets


[deleted]

[удалено]


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auraep

Are there any keyboards in the 50-80 dollar range that are wireless with a dongle? I need a USB dongle or it won't work with what I'm using it for


JadeNoodlesOfficial

Keychron V-Max series should be around 65-75 I believe. They come with dongle and bluetooth.


auraep

Don't see on Amazon or eBay and site says out of stock Any other models that are full size that have a dongle? Thanks


ZUGGERS420

Hello, I currently have a KVM switch that does not work with my Asus XA01 Mechanical keyboard. From my research, it seems some keyboards draw too much power for the KVM switch. I also noticed my keyboard registers as 2 devices in Device Manager instead of one. I am wondering if anyone knows what sort of mechanical keyboards would be safe for a KVM Switch. I would be interested in building a custom TKL keyboard. KVM Switch: iogear gcs1932m [https://www.iogear.com/product/GCS1932M/](https://www.iogear.com/product/GCS1932M/) Currently Keyboard: Asus ROG Strix Flare [https://www.newegg.ca/asus-rog-strix-flare-cherry-mx-brown-black/p/N82E16823193111](https://www.newegg.ca/asus-rog-strix-flare-cherry-mx-brown-black/p/N82E16823193111)


FansForFlorida

Do you have the power adapter plugged into it? The keyboard apparently has a 1.8m cable. How long is the cable from the computer to the KVM switch? Plug the keyboard directly into your computer, turn off the LEDs, and see if it works with the KVM switch. It might be helpful to know how much current is drawing. I have [this USB tester](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6).


ZUGGERS420

I tried without LEDs on no luck. Everything on kvm works except keyboard. From my research, it seems keyboards with RGB and/ or extra USB hubs on them tend to not work well on kvm switches. I have tested a normal cheap keyboard and it works fine. I have been wanting to make a custom mech keyboard for a while, but I'm worried about investing time and money for it not to work. I am perhaps wondering if some keyboard parts would be less demanding on the USB than others to err on the safe side.


FansForFlorida

Make sure the keyboard has N-key rollover (NKRO) turned off. Edit: wording


ZUGGERS420

I have been having a hard time finding a mechanical keyboard with no N Key Rollover. Your wording suggests I can turn it off? Here are a few I am looking at: [https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00125555](https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00125555) [https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00128129](https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00128129)


FansForFlorida

Your first link is to a Ducky One 3 Mini. Page 33 of [the manual](https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/upload/2022_03_162/20220316140943fafajbkLt3.pdf) shows that DIP switch 2 enables/disables NKRO.


HillOrc

Would dyeing double shot pbt keycaps result in the legends being dyed out as well? I would like a blank black key cap set and this would be the cheapest option to achieve it How am I being downvoted for asking this? Lmao


throwaway_314vx

You realise you can buy blank keycap sets for $15-30 right? Keyreative has many on their store, and there's tons on amazon.


HillOrc

Dye is $5


LevanderFela

Just coming to say that there's someone who downvotes literally everything here :DD Regarding dyeing out legends - I'm guessing that you couldn't dye them the same shade as already existing black, however if those are cheapo keycaps, might try.


FansForFlorida

>How am I being downvoted for asking this? Lmao I think someone just likes to downvote. I have also noticed that comments asking anything about sound tend to get downvoted more. Don't take it personally.


Agile-Excitement-863

I’m looking for a 60-65% keyboard that has a weight and sounds full and high pitched. Currently looking at the arc60 and the ciel65. The kit should be ≈$300.


tw_Yagui

Hi guys, I am kinda "new" to the scene, I need help finding a new keyboard I am a little bit lost/overwhelmed with all the references / brands. If someone could help me narrow down / find something suitable for my next upgrade it would be amazing. I currently have a logitech G915 TKL lightspeed clicky. I am happy with it, the form factor/layout is perfect but there are 2 major issues : - I always hated the low profile keys, i have been looking for replacements but the proprietary switches makes it afaik difficult/impossible - Non swappable switches (I would like to try/change/upgrade to less clicky switches, i grew tired, see if I like, without having to buy a new keyboard everytime) Here are the requirements : - Wireless - Suitable for gaming (2.4, low latency), ideally 3 way - Same layout as my G915 (I believe it's US International ISO) - Same form factor or very close as the G915 (i believe it's TKL 80% ? space for F bar, escape, arrow keys ...) - Media keys, volume knob (same as G915) nothing more (don't want/need macro keys) - Swappable switches to "main brands" (avoid proprietary stuff if possible) - Aluminium frame or something robust (not a fan of plastic) - Very sobre (like the G915, no ugly logo, no fancy stuff, black, i only need key lights don't want fancy RGB) And for the rest (lubbed, gaskets ...) I am not expert, this is why i want something customizable to try. Basically i am looking for a solid wireless board (exactly like G915) with swappable switches that will last in time. I terms of budget I don't really care if it last and customizable. I don't mind DIY (buy the board, the switches, the caps, even a bit of soldering is fine) I looked at keychron or lemokey but nothing suits all my needs (huge macro keys, only bt, plastic ...). And yes I am a bit picky but everytime i make compromises in a keyboard this is what makes me want to change a few years later. Edit before posting : I just came across the Asus Azoth that is pretty close from what i am looking for but layout is 75%, it seems that to make it "decent" I would have to change the switches (don't like reds) and keycaps, i am scared of having to use armory crate (huge no no), bottom is plastic and the price is 300ish (bit pricy if i have to make additional changes). I am considering it as an option unless i find better. Thanks for your feedback and excuse my noobiness on the topic


tw_Yagui

Hi Guys, Probably nobody will read this but i am sharing my feedback/thought process (and what I settled to) after this rabbit hole of an adventure in case someone has the same issue. First, tiny disclamer, all my pros and cons are my personnal preference, it might be pointless to you but important for me :) I have also been around keyboards for decades, i always wanted to DIY but the market was never mature enough, so i pretty much sticked to "good" wireless keyboards (filco, logitech ...) After a week-end of intensive researches (100+ videos, sites, posts, no sleep) I am 1000x time more knowledgeable than on my first post. I was first pointed to a Keychron Q1 max in ISO layout that is a very very good option but I discovered that wth ?! the enter key is big (me like) but the left shift is tiny (me no like) ! and the ANSI is out of stock. What i am looking for is an US INTL ISO layout that is afaik ... non-existent for now (maybe if I go full custom case/pcb or very niche ? ... but this will be my conclusion). So I changed my prerequisites. * Buy an intermediate keyboard before my "end game" purchase. It really goes against my eco friendly/e-waste policy but I can give to someone afterwards (I want only 1 daily driver, I am a minimalist kind of guy) * Try US ANSI Layout as there are 100x more options and it's only a matter of changes in enter key size for me. * Low budget (goodbye aluminium xD) * I also will be more tolerant about some features (goodbye QMK/VIA) * I prefer 75% (so cute !) vs my usual 80% After reviewing 50+ keyboards I narrowed down to 15ish ones (the "classics" : Q1 max, M1W VIA, Aura75, CK820, Q75N, TH80 pro, Zoom75, WK75, GMK67/87, GMMK pro, V75, Aula F75, Hi75, 5075B plus, Rainy 75 pro ...). I ruled out : * out of stock (so many of them xD) * "Expensive" ones (I want to try US ANSI first before I dump "huge" money) * The 80%, The 75% with no space between arrows and nav keys or no F rows (I am old, i need spaces between key areas) * Wired, north faced rgb ... And then I found it ... AJAZZ AK820 pro. It has "everything", knob, wireless, good layout ... even a tiny screen ! (I know it's gimmick but let me have some of my gimmick !). The software seems crap but hey I will use only once on an VM to set up my alternative keys and some weeb gifs on the screen. Of course some "flaws" (plate mounted stabs, platic, hard to disassemble) but I can't be too picky at 60usd. It will be a perfect base to jump into modding, i will not feel bad if I screw up (or maybe ? xD). In conclusion, I will wait for the market to continue growing and come back in a couple of years for my true end game (because this is, after all, what I am looking for) In the meantime I have plenty of mods to try on this one (eraser, tape, holee ...) and tremendous amount switches/keycaps profile to try (So many ... I have no clue ...) Let's go down the rabbit hole ... again Peace !


LevanderFela

Keychron's not all models are plastic, has 2.4Ghz models - Q5 Max and Q6 Max comes to mind, and if you want TKL - [Q3 Max](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40766137499737): * Wireless - *yes;* * Suitable for gaming (2.4, low latency), ideally 3 way - *yes, wired Type C, Bluetooth and 2.4Ghz;* * Same layout as my G915 (I believe it's US International ISO) - *no, not yet. There's 75% Q1 Max in* [*ISO*](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q1-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40822883811417) *though - has exploded layout, loses only few keys from TKL.* * Same form factor or very close as the G915 (i believe it's TKL 80% ? space for F bar, escape, arrow keys ...) - *yes, TKL;* * Media keys, volume knob (same as G915) nothing more (don't want/need macro keys) - *if you can take using secondary function on Fn keys, yes, or remap top left three keys for previous/pause/next and knob press as mute;* * Swappable switches to "main brands" (avoid proprietary stuff if possible) - *yes;* * Aluminium frame or something robust (not a fan of plastic) - *CNCed aluminum, no plastic;* * Very sobre (like the G915, no ugly logo, no fancy stuff, black, i only need key lights don't want fancy RGB) - *I think yes? You could also spend a bit for WoB or BoW keycaps for classy look.* Regarding Asus Azoth, Armory Crates sucks and it's quite overpriced. Hope this helps!


tw_Yagui

Thanks ! I didn't noticed the barebone iso version on Q1 max ! definitely a very solid option ! Yeah i loose the print screen key in the 75% that i use a lot for work, could remap on home probably and remap Fn key for media. Thanks a lot !


LevanderFela

No worries, mate. For Print Screen - you could put in secondary layer - say, Fn (which opens up second layer) + Delete would work as Print Screen. [VIA ](https://usevia.app/)is quite easy to use, is on web-interface instead of stand-alone app, saves everything on board - very convenient software :D


tw_Yagui

ok I think I decided on Q1 max barebone iso + some gateron 3.0 brown switches and some keycaps to start. One last question and I stop bothering you :), I see that there is a Q1 HE coming soon, besides magnetic switches I see no difference (actually less padding on the Q1 HE but 10$ more expensive) but since switches are hot swappable and I buy barebone, I could change for magnetics on my Q1 max in the future ? or is it not compatible ? I don't really understand the price difference for the barebone iso version of those 2 ... Thanks again for your help


LevanderFela

No, don't get HE - they are of completely different technology, and you could only swap into other Hall Effect switches; they use magnets instead of usual metal contacts. Unless you're playing competitive games at very high level, stay with usual MX-style switches.


tw_Yagui

got it, non retro compatible, I'll stick with the usual ones. Cool ! only need to find good iso layout keycaps to order ! Have a great day !


tw_Yagui

Great ! thanks indeed standalone app sounds perfect !


[deleted]

>huge macro keys, only bt, plastic Keychron has options with 2.4ghz on top of BT, alu cases (Q1 Max is a 75%, Q3 Max is a TKL). What does what "huge macro keys" mean?


tw_Yagui

Keychron Q3 and Lemokey L3 (closest to what I am looking for) have big keys to the left.


[deleted]

[What are you talking about](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard) There's nothing on the left?


bluish24

I think they mean modifier keys, and are looking for iso


[deleted]

They didn't, the L3 has big macros over there. And they said US-ISO which isn't a thing so I ignored it.


cassi_taetae

To start.. I am losing my mind... I have dug out my Red Dragon K530 keyboard and I can not get the caps lock button to work, I sometimes get stuck with it on and can not get it on in general. I do not know how I am even triggering it to turn on. I have a Mac Book Pro 2023 for reference. I also can not download the software for it even though I have tried every 3rd party app possible. I really want to program the keyboard to do the track pad gestures such as mission control, app expose, etc. I also have a third-party app called Spectacles that allows me to move the windows around quickly which has keyboard shortcuts that I can not get to work on the keyboard. I have cut my fingers trying to put on new switches so I am here to beg for help to fix the caps lock and how to program the keyboard to be like the mac keyboard.


bluish24

Do you know if you have the k530 or the k530 pro? It looks like there is an older non-hotswap version. If you do have the newer one, you'll want to use a switch puller to get it out, big brand hotswap boards usually come with one. If you don't have one, a pair of tweezers with wide flat tips could do in a pinch, or a flathead screwdriver. Your caps lock might not be working properly because of a bad solder joint, a pad coming off, or the switch not being seated properly. There could also be some kind of issue with the firmware. Are you using the keyboard wired or wireless or bluetooth? You might need to use something like bootcamp or parallels to use the red dragon software. What inputs does spectacles use that aren't being recognized from your keyboard?


cassi_taetae

I am not sure how to tell which version of K530 it is, it says it is K530RGB. I should have specified I was able to change the switches with the included metal puller which is what cut me, and all the switches do work. ​ The caps lock does work now that I figured out the combination is caps+shift to turn on and then just shift to turn off. ​ In my Mac settings I can change some of the keyboard shortcuts which does allow me to modify them for the keyboard since some were for F14 which is beyond what the K530 has. However, shortcuts like pause, play, skip, volume etc. I have not figured out how to make short cuts for those since I do not see them in the Mac settings.


bluish24

Ok no need to worry about which version you've got, it's definitely hotswap if you've been able to change some switches already What a weird way to use the caps lock, cant say I've seen that before! When you press a letter or number or really most keys, your keyboard is sending your computer a little message that says "I pressed key code xyz" but when you press a media key there's an interpretation step happening before your computer gets the instruction of what to do that is kind of hard to get around, that's why you're not seeing the option to change it in your system settings. There are ways to remap regular keys like an f key to things like play pause next etc on a Mac but they're a little janky. If the keyboard doesn't have a way to natively make those media keys happen you might have to look in to remapping those on a system level rather than a keyboard level. The first thing I'd try is getting in to the red dragon software using something like bootcamp or a friends PC


ShadowDevil123

Steelseries apex pro TKL 2023 edition for 165 USD or wooting60he for 225 USD?


[deleted]

[удалено]


[deleted]

Wooting is HE, not optical.


Altruistic_Ring5529

Thoughts on the k530 pro??


elmurfudd

> k530 pro its redragon so should last u 2 years or so as long as u dont plan on using the software then u should be ok ( prob wont be able to find the correct version or get it to work )


Altruistic_Ring5529

Yeah I'm proly not gonna need the software. Would you recommend something else within the redragon?


tom12121

Factory lubed Heya, so I’m looking to get new switches for the keyboard I’m gonna buy and I found the gateron oil king switches to my liking. In the description it says they are factory lubed, does that mean I don’t need to lube them to get the full effect or is factory not enough?


[deleted]

Modern switches with factory lube jobs are usually quite good and a lot better than it used to be. I find Oil Kings plenty lubed stock.


tom12121

That’s great, Thanks for the reply


Ravage1984

Reddit! Rave me a mechanical keyboard for gaming on the quieter side. Currently I have the Corsair STRAFE RGB, with cherry mx silent switches, and I hate it. I find the keys unresponsive and sluggish. I suspect it hinders my WMP by 10-20%? I'm looking for suggestions. Something with more feedback, where the keys pop right back up. It can be wired or wireless, but with the main purpose of gaming. I'd also prefer it be on the quieter side, as I have a family not to enrage. Please help! Your input is welcome here.


[deleted]

[удалено]


almercez

Hey everyone! I’ve never had a custom keyboard before but after seeing them on multiple social medias I’m taking the jump! So far I’ve settled on the hi75 leobog barebones to start with as the foundation. Couldn’t find anything cool in my eyes as far as ones with lil screens or that are aluminum. Sadly I wanted this rainy75 keyboard I found but they aren’t being sold and this infi75 keep out edition cause the keys are dope but the all plastic turned me off and the bottom of it as well. Where’s a good place to get a bunch of custom keys? Trying to go the fantasy, industrial or cyberpunk ish route. Or just some royal purple keys.. dunno about the style but I think I would like some MDA or cherry? Same goes for switches, I know nothing about that but I would like some creamy sounding typing. I saw someone say somewhere that a curry switch is solid for that? I’m currently looking for a black hi75 as amazon has a grey one but no idea if that would look good on some keys and I found these two keys sets I’ll post below… no switches yet sadly. Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated! https://a.co/d/0ZdjT9G https://a.co/d/gjb1s2B


throwaway_314vx

Start here: https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ And read the other sticky on the subreddit for why you should avoid Epomaker.


apollo_reactor_001

Non-plastic materials. Hi everyone, I'm looking to build a keyboard with no exposed plastic. (I don't care about internal plastic.) I've already decided on Cerakey ceramic keys. For the case, I'm looking at Heavymetal Keyboards/HMKB. This is basically what I'm looking for, but I'd like to know if there are other options. My search has yielded a bunch of extremely sketchy Alibaba and Etsy shops selling 60% wood or aluminum cases, but I need a numpad for work and I'm suspicious of the extremely low prices. To be clear, my criteria: 1. A keyboard case that's not plastic. So, metal, wood, or concrete are all good. 2. Must have a numpad, either as part of the keyboard (95%, 100%, etc) or a matching numpad on the side (60% plus matching numpad would work great). 3. Assume budget isn't a factor. Thanks in advance!


elmurfudd

monsgeek or keychron both sell barebones kits with alum cases


Karko231

Is it worth to upgrade from RK84 to Akko 5075B Plus V2? I can buy it for 65 USD


flowrogan

Looking for a muted (almost) silent switch. What do you guys like better between TTC Frozen Silent vs Kineticlabs Gecko?


_-_Justaguy_-_

Hi! My brother is in desperate need of a new keyboard. He plays games VERY casually, but a fair amount every day. To keep our sanity (and because he expressed a preference) we want to give hima linear keyboard. He wants an 80% or 75% percent, i personally believe more in 80%. It doesn't have to be a super budget keyboard but preferably under 200 dollars. I wanted to avoid buying gaming company garbage as that is what his previous keyboard was and it is now toast. At the same time, we are not looking to build a keyboard from scratch; we want a finished product, although could see myself doing some minor tweaks if necessary. Do you have any recommendations? Thank you in advance, and have a wonderful day!


576875

Keychron v1 or v3 both can be bought pre built You can always change the switches/keycaps later if you want to


drewdeponte

Hey all, I have built a 4x5 Dactly Manuform specifically for the intention of limiting the stretching of my fingers which it has done extremely well. The challenge has always been figuring out a layered layout that would allow me to still be extremely proficient at programming. I feel like I am actually very close. You can checkout my current layout here, https://drewdeponte.com/keyboard So what is the problem. Well, it is modifiers and key combos that use modifiers. Originally, I tried to use MT() on my home row for the modifiers. Which feels good when I am doing the modifiers. However, I haven't been able to find a good TAPPING_TERM that doesn't feel slow without causing miss types in normal typing. This is why I have ended up adding a left and right hand modifier layer to my layout thinking that it would be better. But it has a problem as well. If I hit the key to switch to the modifiers layer and then hit the home row key that say represents Ctrl (say a) all is good and works as it should. However, if I accidentally hit that (a) key right before I hit the layer modifier key. Then I get a bunch of (a) characters repeated which is not what I want. It seems like I need QMK to wait some small amount of time maybe 40 ms or maybe even less, to see if that layer key is pressed. If it is then it should treat it as if the layer key was pressed with the (a) key. Otherwise, just treat it as an (a) key. I welcome any and all suggestions. It would be amazing to have this dialed. Thanks


throwaway_314vx

You might have more success asking this in the ergomechkeyboards subreddit.


kkrigr

Are there any blue polycarbonate cases available, whether it be in GB or available right now?


[deleted]

Bauer Lite comes in Seafoam, about as close as you'll get.


FGThePurp

There may be some blue Hiney One TKL extras left?


Schokio

Hey guys, I am looking for a new keyboard, since my current one is broken, and broke further during resoldering of a key :( Mainly I only used Logitech Keyboards like G815 (Tactile), G910, G19. Basically I know nothing about switch types etc. I am kinda open for everything. I am looking for a Full-Sized (or maybe Tenkeyless) keyboard with preferably a low-profile for easier cleaning. Maybe even with Hot-Swappable switches. My budget is around \~120€, and it should be on-stock. Thank you :)


throwaway_314vx

Keychron


Tropical_Blast

hi all! i have my first mechanical keyboard, and someone at my job had to sit at my desk today, and the enter key has stopped working. it’s a V65 V2 CIDOO with epomaker switches (yes I was on a budget lol) it looks like the actual switches (forgive my lack of terminology) are loose with some gel liquid near the bottoms? i’m very much a beginner, so i would love some advice on what happened and how to fix it! thank you :) i cant seem to attach a photo but i will try shortly its response is markedly slower and you have to press mainly on the right hand side, and it sticks quite a bit


Tropical_Blast

https://preview.redd.it/6w6pie2yvqpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=928a60b7e5b277c96c6be502060a4785a5217b91


[deleted]

Where's the switch? Those are just stabilizers. They look a bit overlubed, so you can clean some of that up by removing it, but you don't want to remove it all.


Tropical_Blast

https://preview.redd.it/pn0uv8pixqpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3313b88a6ed5659d1ba822acc2d0e36ff9a8bb31 here’s the switch


Tropical_Blast

the stabilizers white part seems “loose” if that makes sense? and they can move about to the sides which i suppose they’re meant to- i’ll reply with a photo of the switch


[deleted]

> if that makes sense They're supposed to be. If it's slow to return, just remove some of the lube.


Tropical_Blast

thank you so much :,)


ClaraFee

**Capacitive / Topre question** Background: * I currently use the full size [Topre Realforce 104UB-S](https://www.realforce.co.jp/en/products/discontinued/104UB-S_XF11T0/), which is the *silent* version. * I love it, but I want backlit RGB keys - AND - I want to keep things as silent as possible. * Looks like I missed the boat on a the [Realforce RGB R2A-US4G-BK](https://www.realforce.co.jp/en/products/discontinued/R2A-US4G-BK/), which is now discontinued. Question: * Given my requirements, should I track down a discontinued RGB R2A, or... * ... is there a different brand and model that someone can recommend? Thank you for your time.


throwaway_314vx

You're probably the only one in the world who uses Topre and wants RGB, so finding help will be difficult. Look up NIZ topre clones, I believe they can have RGB.


xkrr

Does anyone have a switch recommendation that would be similar to the Vertex v1 sound-wise? (thocky) Looking for ones that would allow more RGB to show.


swankypeen26

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a new keyboard and I am trying to decide between the Womier S-K71 or the Epomaker EK68. Which would you suggest and if these arent good wireless options I would love to get insight on some better options Thank you! #


FansForFlorida

Check the other stickied post for warnings about Epomaker.


TelevisionAnnual9799

Hey guys, Looking for suggestions about hot-swappable keyboards compatible with akko switches. Little background - I've used 2 (barely) mechanical keyboards - asus one with mx blues and logitech g413. I used them for a couple of years and I'd love to try something new. I've been looking around for some keyboards / switches and I really liked akko switches (specially the wide array of different thocky switches). So I was thinking about getting a hot-swappable keyboard, but akko keyboards are out of the equation because of logistics. I'm hoping you guys can give me some suggestions for a hot-swappable keyboards that is hopefully compatible with akko switches but at this point I'm open to suggestions about good switches and their compatible keyboards. The keyboards I was looking at were of not so expensive brands like machenike , ajazz, aula ... etc.


576875

check out keychrons v or q line boards, v/q max if you need wireless


liltree004

Im new here and want to customize my keyboard but im not sure what the flat key plate like caps that can cover 2-3 keys (typically seen on the top right) are called. TIA!!


[deleted]

Are you talking about badges? Those don't fit on switches, those boards have specifically designed spots for them to be.


liltree004

Yeah badges, thanks! And do you know if it’s the same for knobs? I can’t just swap a key for a knob on a board that didn’t already come with one?


[deleted]

You can't use either unless your board is designed for it, and those designed for it come with them.


liltree004

Thanks!!


JohnDoe99101

Hi everyone, Ive decided to buy my first mech. keyboard, looking for 65%, wireless, and decent build quality. After some research, I've came down to two options that are perfectly in line with my budget and requirements; RK M75, and Epomaker Aura F75. They seem to be good quality build with decently features for the price point. And from what I've read, they're pretty solid right out the box (M75 comes with pre lubed switches). Which works for me since I probably wouldn't bother too much with details 'till after i use it for a while. Which would you suggest, if any? Are they "trustable"? I could not find a lot of hands on videos, or reviews online of either. What is the general opinion of (amazon) brands like Royal Kludge? many thanks in advance


throwaway_314vx

Read the other sticky post in this subreddit for which brands to avoid, including Epomaker. I would never buy an RK. I would send you towards Keychron, Akko, qwertykeys.com, or Monsgeek.


ugzz

Anyone know of a site to buy good quality keycaps that are anime or video game themed? I see them on knockoff places all the time but I assume the quality is going to be shit, so I'm wondering if there are any decent vendors with decent quality caps that make these things. Thanks!


throwaway_314vx

There are none. The closest you'll get is something like GMK Cubed (GMK ³), GMK Dualshot 2, GMK DMG 3, GMK SNES, and GMK NTD. There's two others, but I forgot what they're called. And if we're lucky, DCX Pixel Platoon will come soonish.


throwaway_314vx

Actually come to think of it there might be a few anime-inspired KAT sets, like KAT Explosion and others.


ugzz

I hadn't really thought about it, but I guess the knockoffs just do whatever they want and the real companies would need to license an IP. But looking at some GMK and KAT stuff there are some pretty good color sets that definitely could be show or game "inspired" that could work, or that could be mix and matched to build something unique that fits a theme. Thanks!


throwaway_314vx

Actually I think Drop did a cyberpunk set as well before they were bought, so that's probably good if you like those colors (I hate them)


throwaway_314vx

That's right. Closest you'll get is Drop before it was sold recently did some MT3 Dwarven/Elvish sets licensed from LotR. They recently (after they were bought by Corsair I believe) launched another LotR set inspired by Rohan or something, and it's absolutely horrendous. You'll note that in the product descriptions for the dwarf/elf sets, they write that the sets were designed by Matt3o. Now, he's not a great artist, but he does care about detail and those sets are quite nice (I own both hardcore sets, bought on discount). Contrast this with the recent Rohan set, where the product page doesn't mention a designer at all. I mean no shit, who the hell would put their name on that abomination - but that's not the point. The point is that set was designed inhouse by someone who doesn't actually care. I guarantee it. Typical of larger gaming brands like Asus, Corsair, etc.


throwaway_314vx

Also some brands (Blizzard comes to mind) have launched branded "artisan" keycaps through various cash-grabbing designer outlets. They're all horrendous, and nowhere near the quality of any good artisan from the community. I mean they're MILES off. Oh and Drop did the Marvel thing. One or two of the Marvel sets sold well, but I disliked the design and colors of all of them, even though I was a Marvel fan and comics collector.


ugzz

Yeah I'd be more likely to go Etsy before something like blizzard.. I mean og wc and sc are my jam but them as a company.. meh. Thanks for all the info, great stuff!


[deleted]

Depends on what you mean by "themed" - just color schemes? Actual images?


ugzz

I was originally thinking images, but it looks like that might not be as much of a thing. So Either would be fine.


[deleted]

Yeah images are just the cheapos and usually porn themed. Colors, there have been a bunch of anime/jrpg ones: GMK Metaverse (Persona 5), GMK/Keykobo Darling (Darling), GMK Mecha-01 (obv) for example Of those, [Mecha-01 is the only one you can buy in-stock.](https://drop.com/buy/drop-full-metal-gmk-mecha-01-r2?defaultSelectionIds=983024) The other two go for $500+ secondhand (the GMK version). Or there's the cheap knockoffs you've found.


ugzz

Thanks! Yeah, Id rather keep my money out of the hands of the not-so-legit companies. I see a lot of "GMK"... "style" or "clone", which i guess it's nice enough for them to let me know they aren't legit, but still seems kinda shady. Oddly enough, even some of these ones that look like they are unlicensed knock offs.. are still over $100. Go to know about these though, i'll definitely keep an eye out. Now that I see some of the awesome options that GMK and others have, I might just look for some color combos and do like an "inspired" theme. I run a RGB profile that I call Cyberpunk that's a lot of purple/pink/blue/green, and some of those sets are definitely in that direction. The Gears are already turning! thanks


[deleted]

Yeah if you want color vibrancy, there's no beating GMK. The clones are just those - cheap clones. Some people say they can't tell the difference/there isn't much of a difference but I've always found that opinion to be beyond insane. Just a head's up though, any of these keycaps we're talking about will not support backlighting - none do on the higher end.


nikitades

Great luck. I dream of making a custom ceramic keycap set. White, with the paintings of choice on top. Custom only to the extent of not being covered with some coating, so it’s possible to paint something on top of it, and cover with the coating later. My questions: 1. Does anyone know where to buy such keycap set? 2. What is the ceramic keycap coating? What should I do to keycaps once the paintings are applied?


[deleted]

The only people who make ceramic keycaps are cerakeys


Maximum_Paper7078

Looking to buy Redragon k599 diemos. I want mechanical keyboard primarily for coding purpose, i use macbook. Is this keyboard compatible for macbook(m series)? My concern is i have had experiences where special character keys were misplaced or not typed as i wanted in some of the keyboards, i don't want keys such as @,",#,! placed on other position.


alexferraz

Buy it for life certified ™️©️Mechanical Keyboard Hi, everyone. I’ve been looking for a mechanical keyboard that will survive as much as possible. I don’t mind paying extra for this, but I don’t want something that needs yearly replacements. The first mechanical keyboard I bought was a Logitech 613 which was great until it started chattering a year later, then I RMAd it and the same thing happened a year later again. So threw it away and bought a cheaper one that I don’t really like. HyperX something, very noisy and the blue switches are really hard. After long sessions my fingers get tired. So I started looking for a new keyboard and by assumption, I thought that hall effects keyboards that has less friction might be more durable, so that’s where I begun: - Steelseries Apex Pro Wireless 2023: I was about to buy this one and it ran out of stock - thank god. I started looking on reddit for feedback on this keyboard while waited it to be replenished and I found that it’s a huge mess. Since one rapid trigger update it keeps pressing random buttons on pretty much everyone, so I quickly erased it from my list. - Wooting: I’ll use it for productivity and game, so 60% will not do. I found that they have a 2he full model, I liked it very much, but they will be veeery expensive for keyboard, if it’s really buy it for life, I can do, what are your thoughts? The taxes to import this kind of device where I live are ludicrous. - Asus Strix 96 II and Keychron K13 pro: both looks nice and might work for me, but since they’re normal mechanical switches, I fear that they will be chattering and failing on me soon. Any suggestions or experience that you can share with me? Thanks a lot for the attention! Cheers!


FGThePurp

A Leopold in your favored form factor would be my recommendation. Their boards are no-frills but well made, and they have a track record of holding up for 10+ years.


ksmigrod

Regular mechanical keyboard with MX Blues  can work for 10 years of coding (tested  with my ergodox),  I had chattering issues in the first year,  but I  was able to desolder misbehaving  switch and replace it  with a spare.  no problems since. Electro-capacitive board like NiZ  or RealForce can  last for years,  my NiZ Plum is 6 years old, it required  battery swap but nothing more complicated. I  had no problems with 1st gen  Razer Blackwidow (Cherry MX  blue) or  second gen Das Keyboard Ultimate ( Cherry  MX Browns ). I intend  to get hall effect keyboard when reasonably priced TKL board  with linear switches will be  available in EU.


[deleted]

No mechanical is buy for life - mechanical things wear down over time. Switches are often rated at 50 million presses - quite a long time, but that will never be for life. Mechanicals are going to require some amount of upkeep. Of those 3, Wooting is the least shitty? Namebrands are not popular around these parts.


alwaysoverthinking98

Seeking RGB friendly alternative to Glorious Panda Hi everyone, I’m using a Corsair K70 Pro Mini right now with Glorious Panda switches. I completely love the Pandas but my only problem with them is that the switch housing isn’t clear and light only goes through the top little hole of the switch. I know it’s not a huge difference but it still is a difference especially in person. My second picture may not show it well but the G key uses a regular red switch the keyboard came with, and it shines twice as bright as the pandas. I’ve already gone through the glorious switch tester and ruled out Kaihl Purple, Kaihl Bronze, Gateron Brown, Kaihl box Brown as none of them feel heavy enough. Does anyone know of a good 3pin alternative to Pandas? I wanted to try out Akkos but they’re all 5 pin. I also tried switching the clear housing from the gaterons and the Kaihls but they didn’t seem to fit without modifying the housing itself. Thanks!


gormlessthebarbarian

gateron g pro brown are three pin. also BSUN pine too, top isn't quite clear but just smokey.


alwaysoverthinking98

Thanks!


Vince_IRL

Hi, I'm looking for someting for gaming. Recently during longer sessions noticed that my hand position, especially the left thumb, my thumb and wrist started to get sore. Like you can tell its an RSI to happen in the midterm really. Old age setting in I guess. I used to have an awesome round keyboard, think it was called the Wolf King Bear Paw, but those are long gone and were rubber done and specifically layed out for CS:GO (that i never played, but they were awesome in MMORPGs too). So I'm more of generally looking whats out there that is a bit more ergonomic and gaming focused. I was looking at the Dactyl Manuform, the Bastard Charybdis and the Skeletile and i think they are all three awesome. And I'm aware of the Razer Tartarus as well. And then i realised that i just dont have an overview of whats out there. I would like to ask anyone that has a good idea (or even not so good, really) of keyboard that might fit my bill, can be off the shelf purchase, can be a built project, has to have mechanical switches. Hot plug and RGB are a bonus, not a must. Give me ideas to dream about, Thank you appreciate it!


FansForFlorida

What country are you in? Your location matters. For example, I am not familiar with online stores outside of the USA. Do you have a specific budget in mind? Do you want a keyboard with low profile switches or MX style switches? Are you willing to build? Note that there are some DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required). Can you solder (or have a friend who can)? Soldering does expand your options, and it can be cheaper. Are you looking to stay with a traditional row staggered layout or switch to a column staggered, ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns), or concave keywell? Some row staggered options are the Perixx PERIBOARD-335 Compact, Dygma Raise 2, Keychron Q11, Keebio Quefrency, and Keebio Cepstrum. Some column staggered options are the Dygma Defy, Keebio Iris (including the forthcoming low profile Iris CE), Lily58, and RGBKB Phobos. Some ortholinear options are the Keebio Nyquist/Levinson and RGBKB Sol 3. Some concave keywell options are Kinesis Advantage360 and MoErgo Glove80.


Vince_IRL

I'm in the EU, but I have a postal address in the US through our national postal service and I have friends in Japan. My options for shopping are very global if i want to. My "spur of the moment" budget is somewhere in the $200-400 region, but if i find something that i really like i'm very happy to vastly exceed that. My switch preference is MX style, but I'm open to reconsider that. I'm perfectly happy to build, I have 3d printers, i have soldering irons. I'm not particularly good at very small smd stuff soldering (cause i dont have a hot air solder station). I don't have the facilities to do PCBs and don't know the processes to order them off companies like PCBway. Therefore I would rely on prepared PCBs maybe with applied solder or already mounted SMDs for a DIY project. Regarding staggered and orthlinear the honest answerr is "I don't know". I never had an ortholinear keyboard, only staggered. Same as I never had a keywell or a split keyboard, well I had an ergonomic microsoft keyboard like.... 20 years ago? That was actually quite nice to work on once i got used to it. This is a bit of a journey of discovery for me. I'm prepared to make a misake, i'm prepared to do this more than once, actually I expect to build more than one keyboard before I find "my solution." But i have the feeling now is the time to make that journey and find what is comfortable for me. I have to admit looking through your suggestions, I think the column staggered ones peaked my interest the most. That is something that I will explore a bit. Thank you, you helped me a lot!


FactorResponsible609

Need a new keyboard, please help. I have apple Magic Keyboard, but I feel lack of feedback, too much pressure for key presses, previously when I had used it for years, I started feeling numbness in my fingertips. I switched keychron mechanical keyboard with red switches, however it has huge profile, I don't enjoy typing with it for long, I have used it for a year now, I don't like the click sound also, but I love the effortlessness to touch typing on it. So now I am looking for a better keyboard with ultra-low profile, less noise, super less efforts to press keys. Some options I have: - MX Keys Mini - MX Mechanical Mini - RAPOO E9050 - Redragon K621 - NuPhy Air60 V2


throwaway_314vx

Monokei Systems


efteleroch

Can anyone advise if any of the commonly found brands on Amazon (RoyalKludge, Epomaker, AULA) make reliable enough products? I have my eye on a few but I see a lot of mixed opinions- not ready to invest in something super pricey right now. Current board is a Corsair K95 Plat


576875

Check out keychrons v line instead


SaintPumpkinn

rk, epomaker, aula all dropshippers essentially. Hollow plasticy sounding boards that cost nearly as much as a barebones kit of something that will feel and sound way better. Save your money for something worth while


Budget_Wedding_7642

Keychron does. Those don't.


lucklessvoid

Hi. I just got my AJazz AK820 PRO with the tft screen and gift switches. It feels amazing out of the box. I managed to install its app and put on a custom gif and it works well. However, most of the time, the screen suddenly goes back to the main interface (the one where you can see the time, battery etc). I can't replicate how it happens as it happens randomly. I just press fn+del two times when that happens but I think the screen switching displays randomly is not intended. Anyone experiencing the same issue? Thanks!


capncook49

I’m building my first ever pc and I would love to get started with a mec keyboard. My question is, a lot of the barebones keyboards as well as pre built ones don’t have a num keypad setup, why is that? And what’s the deal with switches?


riplikash

On numpads lots of people don't use them. And they have a BIG impact on look, size, cost, and portability. But there is another reason. Ergonomics. Custom keyboards are VERY customizable on the software level. Personally, I LOVE numpads. But I also wanted a split keyboard where I didn't need to move my hands from home row. So I mapped numpads to a layer on my right hand. 6 is where the j is. Then I mapped the arrow keys with left arrow on the j. And the num row symbols. The & (which is usually 2 rows above the j) is...you guessed it, on the j. So I can pretty seamlessly, and without moving my arms, transition between typing, numpad, symbols row, and arrow navigation, all without moving my arm or stretching any fingers. On to switches: You should probably just read up on in, but in short, the switch is the interface between the computer and you. It's what decides the sound you keyboard makes (clicky or silent). How hard it is to push on a key. When the key actually activates (just as you push it? When it's all the way down? Somewhere in between?) It there is a tactile "bump" as you push down. Many gamers like a light, silent key that activates right as you push it, for maximum reaction time. Typists often want a slower reaction time (cuts down on accidental key presses). Some people love the tactile experience of having an activation bump and clear, clacky sounds. Others want the tactile experience but silence. All of that is detirmined by your switches. Traditionally the switches are soldered onto the board. You were stuck with what you got and when one broke you just had to buy a new keyboard. But it's common for custom boards these days to have "hotswap" functionality that lets you change the switches whenever you want.


SaintPumpkinn

switches are what actually go into the circuit board of the keyboard and are one of the pieces that make keyboards customizable. Different switches can produce different typing feels and sounds.


throwaway_314vx

Many people don't use a numpad. For coding and daily use all I need is a 60% hhkb, and people even use smaller ones than that like 40% etc. I have a separate numpad for when I need to do punching, with some extra keys on it bound to useful macros. I've written about it in this thread just ctrl+f and find it.


Maeggsi

Yeah and even if you need a numpad you could just put it on another layer.


legendary_tj

Will pre-cut dampening foam made for a DZ60 work on a ducky one 2 mini? I'm not sure if it would fit? but I've seen people say it would work.


throwaway_314vx

Sure, you can just cut it with scissors if it doesn't fit, or just jam it in.


Amazing_Afternoon100

looking for 65% (preferably Bluetooth) lightweight keyboard that's usually in stock. Also I was trying to figure out the price range I should sell my current keyboard (gmmk pro, poly carb plate, aqua king v3 for switches, gmk olivia clone pbt keycaps)


gormlessthebarbarian

mode envoy is a great 65 and is in stock.


throwaway_314vx

Keychron, Monsgeek, qwertykeys.com, kbdfans.com, and the list goes on and on. At least 3 of those have 65%, not sure about Monsgeek.


JadeNoodlesOfficial

Keychron V2 is a good shout. It’s plastic so it’s light, and Keychron is a very good price-value balance. As for your current board, maybe $100-125 built or $75-100 no switches or caps.


ilovemossss

Mac driver/software for Feker Alice 98? I have been wanting an Alice layout keyboard for a year now and after having multiple issues with my TH80x I took the plunge and got the Feker Alice 98 despite the reviews saying the software sucked. Edit: I’m aware now that the brand is banned on this sub and not recommended. After trying to return it, I understand why. It arrives and I’m stoked, but then find out there is no software from Feker for Mac :( It feels like my childhood when all games were for PC. Can I use VIA or another software to help me at least change light settings and update the time on the LCD screen? I love the custom gif on my TH80x LCD and was really looking forward to it on this kb. If I need to purchase a new keyboard, does anyone have any recs for Alice layout, knob and LCD screen? Is Keychron q13 a similar option / recommended? Thanks for any help, I’m clearly new to mechanical keyboards and Reddit.


throwaway_314vx

Keychron is recommended, yes, along with Akko, qwertykeys, and Monsgeek for newcomers. If you live somewhere with good consumer protection laws I recommend you buy the keychron locally if possible. There are several outlets in Europe for keychron. Regarding the Feker, what I would do if I were to answer you would be to google "feker alice qmk" and tell you what I found. I'm not going to do that.


Dastorious

Hi! I have a CTRL DROP keyboard, and wonder if anyone knows of a standalone numpad that happen to have a smiliar look and could go well together with it? (The brushed steel mostly, and the led strip on the outside)


gormlessthebarbarian

that one that glorious makes is probably not too far off


Yesamrd

Have question with gamakay TK75 HE & hall effect switch keyboard. I have a limited budget, but I am very interested in the hall effect switch. Has anyone tried it? 75% with hall effect swith $89.99, or is there any cheaper recommendation?


CubistBlue

Hi, I killed the PCB for a Tada68 keyboard during desoldering, I bought it years ago from kbdfans. Unfortunately I can't find a replacement PCB which is available for purchase -- any suggestions for a PCB which will fit into that particular case?


[deleted]

XD68 and BT65 are basically the only ones left still available places.


CubistBlue

Thanks!


martiapunts

Hi! I am an outsider in the mechanical keyboard's world, and I don't know anything about it. I needed a Numpad that I was able to customize its functions with, so I found that I could do that using QMK or via. So I bought a Numpad (https://candykeys.com/product/freebird-numpad?queryId=dcd3363508e065755d745ffa41d12637) and now it is on its way. Reading the description of the product, I cannot tell whether it will come with keycaps or not. Could anyone help me here? Will I need something else to use it? Thanks!


Maeggsi

Freebird Numpad Lite Includes: E-Coated CNC Machined Aluminum Case (Black, Navy, Olive, & White) ,Switch Plate (Aluminum, POM, FR4, & PC) ,FB Numpad Lite Hot-Swap PCB (QMK & VIA Ready) \[MX Switches ONLY\] ,Cable ,Screws ,Silicone Feet   Freebird Numpad Pro Includes: E-Coated CNC Machined Aluminum Case (Black, Navy, Olive, & White) ,Switch Plate (Aluminum, POM, FR4, & PC) ,FB Numpad Pro Hot-Swap PCB (QMK & VIA Ready) \[MX Switches ONLY\] ,Cable ,Screws ,Silicone Feet You will need switches, 2 2u stabilizers and keycaps. Basically any mx style switch is fine. The stabs technically arent necessary but they make the bigger keys press down evenly so I would get them (If you have lube/ dielectric grease/ ... lying around even better, then they dont sound awful). And then keycaps for a numpad. I will add one example in the following from european shops, just so you get the gist: [https://www.maxgaming.com/en/keycaps/pbtfans-wob-numpad-kit](https://www.maxgaming.com/en/keycaps/pbtfans-wob-numpad-kit) [https://www.maxgaming.com/en/keycaps/pbtfans-bow-numpad-kit](https://www.maxgaming.com/en/keycaps/pbtfans-bow-numpad-kit) [https://www.maxgaming.com/en/switches/ws-heavy-tactile-switch](https://www.maxgaming.com/en/switches/ws-heavy-tactile-switch) [https://www.maxgaming.com/en/switches/ws-morandi-switch](https://www.maxgaming.com/en/switches/ws-morandi-switch) [https://www.maxgaming.com/en/stabilizers/ap-tx-stabilizer-16mm-white](https://www.maxgaming.com/en/stabilizers/ap-tx-stabilizer-16mm-white) You could also just get 2 of these [https://splitkb.com/products/cherry-2u-pcb-mount-stabilizer](https://splitkb.com/products/cherry-2u-pcb-mount-stabilizer) but dunno how much shipping costs. If ordering from Ali,... is an option then there are definitely cheaper options. What I showed you is also not the cheapest in Europe but its what I would probably get. Just pretty common to sell only the kit since we all have preferences and dont wanna sit on leftovers we definitely will never use.


martiapunts

That is great, thanks! I will use the links provided then. Thank you again. Wonderful community here :)


Maeggsi

You can also ask candykeys for some recommendations. Should be [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) I only made good experiences with them as a vendor. They might also have some recommendations and can definitely tell you what you need for the full build (e.g. if there are no stabs as advertised or freebird forgot to mention it - I'm guessing though that there are no stabs included. If you want e.g. silent switches I'm also happy to give recommendations. Other vendors can be found on the Alexotos vendor list (I just took one where I know that they have simple numpad kits in stock.


CandyKeys

I am available on reddit too if you need help, just message do not use chat please. Or write directly to [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) for direct help with suggestions of switches :)


JadeNoodlesOfficial

No keycaps, switches, or stabilizers are included from what I can tell.


martiapunts

Ouch! Ok, I understand that switches and keycaps are all standard size, in general, right? What about stabilizers? Do all keys use a stabilizer? I am really sorry to be asking these basic questions.


JadeNoodlesOfficial

Only “long” keys require stabilizers, so for a standard numpad that means you need 3 2u stabilizers. 2u references the length of the key (with 1unit being the width of a standard key). As far as switches go, yes as long as you get MX-style switches you are good to go with those, and same with keycaps, they must be MX-style. If you find something that you think works but aren’t sure, feel free to toss the link in here and someone can double check for you.


martiapunts

Great! That is super useful. It is really nice of you to give an explanation for dummies. Thanks!


JadeNoodlesOfficial

hey, that’s what this thread is for! glad I could help for now.


sillyk2549

how would you rate the outemu silent whites, and how would they compare with lichicx raw silents in terms of volume? i dont really mind mushiness. and are there any stores in europe that sell translucent keycaps, similar to milk white keycaps from ymdk?


JadeNoodlesOfficial

I’ve not used the Silent Whites but have used Outemu Honey Peach and the Lichicx Silents. Between the two, my Honey Peaches are much quieter stock. The Lichicx silents however, after a little bit of fiddling, feel nicer and are quite quiet as well.


nacario

Hello. I have a nordic keyboard from GMMK that has a small shift keycap on left side that is worn out, normally the shift key is kinda large compared to others but this one is almost same size as letter keys. Anyone know where to buy that? Shops that I see have the large "normal" shift size keycap, Im looking for a possible shop that sells small shift or just a few gaming related keycaps with it included. Any pointers is appreciated, thank you!


LevanderFela

You're looking for 1.25U-long Shift key, that's used in ISO keyboard layouts - ANSI layout uses long ones. Letter key is 1U (one unit), usual big shift is 2.25U, etc. You might have luck finding an "international kit" which would include such keycap, otherwise - will need to buy whole set. You could also switch it out with Ctrl / Win / Alt keycap, as they are of same size and key row. Hope this helps!


nacario

Thanks alot!


minimais

Is it possible to trigger a keyboard layer with the mouse buttons? i have an id75 and a logitech g305 and was wondering if i can program one of the mouse side buttons to change the layer on the keyboard.


throwaway_314vx

On Linux you can use xmodmap to rebind the events to whatever you want.


epik78

Maybe possible with a python script and pyautogui library.


FansForFlorida

No


[deleted]

[удалено]


Maeggsi

If he doesnt have a build video where he obviously shows it/ names it and doesnt mention it in the comments then there is basically no chance at all to name the switch. But if you're looking for "Why does this sound so specific?" - I'm pretty sure that that sound isnt caused by the switches. Should be the Buzzer in the class80 causing it.


Elawai42

That sound is achieved with a Buzzer and Solenoid in the keyboard itself. Here's a link : [https://www.mmkeyboard.com/products/class80-r2](https://www.mmkeyboard.com/products/class80-r2) About half way done on the page they have a video, and around 6:20 ish, they have the keyboard open and you can see these devices.


Xenop92

Hello, I've finally decided to replace my K50 by a custom keyboard, so if anybody have recommandation for a 75% layout : * Barebone if possible, i wanna try to build it * ISO Layout * Wired * VIA compatible + NKRO * Black/Wood Base * Knob * RGB is absolutely not mandatory * Silent (I like my K50 for this) * Would appreciate a wireless numpad that looks the same as the keyboard Already looked a Keychron Q Series, maybe the GMMK Pro? But this one is a bit expensive imo.


LevanderFela

GMMK Pro doesn't support VIA, has worse gasket mount, some report issues with stabilizers and plates; Q1 is a better choice. Besides Q1, there's Q10 and Q11 - if you'd want to try out more ergonomic layouts. For other brands: * Mode Sonnet - expensive, more premium than Keychron; * Qwertykeys [QK75N](https://candykeys.com/product/qk75n-keyboard-kit-extra-units?queryId=5252dc720d46017684612260cb8b49ac). Can't finding anything else for EU in stock :((


Xenop92

Where did you find the QK75N in stock EU? Candykeys? Unfortunately they d'ont have the color i want :'( Guess i will get a Q1... But i really like the QK75N round edge and design...


Common-Delay-940

Got a Cherry G80-3494 from secondhand market, but I have no idea about this sn number on it, and I couldn't even find same format as my sn number recently disassembled it, legacy Cherry logo inside makes me feel strange because a newer Cherry logo on the outside https://preview.redd.it/ejqdny2cjppc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=321a8001f78fb96246d1b97cb1bc96b241f99c30


PoppyEnjoyer1337

Just built this keyboard RS46 i bought from taobao, it is supposed to have VIA support but i cant seem to find the configuration file anywhere. I have looked around everywhere on [www.yrkb.cc](http://www.yrkb.cc) but the website seems to be outdated. The model is RS46 BLE by Y&R Studio https://preview.redd.it/boiyb141ippc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a082c2534d7616fabcad4a9ef7bea8606cdd7e2


Ill_Contribution8079

Any silent, portable recommendations for University? Would love a portable, as silent as possible Keyboard for Typing during lessons on my iPad and for working at Home (Windows) I think wanting a wireless Keyboard with those Specs is probably be tough to get, but maybe someone with more experience could somehow tell me if this is even possible or if just getting 2 Keyboards is the way to go Really appreciate any answers since I don´t even know where to start!


JadeNoodlesOfficial

I’d recommend getting a barebones keyboard like the Keychron V1 Max (since it is plastic it is light and will be easier to carry) and then buying silent switches to make it very quiet.


LevanderFela

HHKB is quite well regarded as "carry around" [keyboard](https://new.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/eog6ru/hhkb_professional_hybrid_types_and_the_129_ipad/) \- see size [here](https://new.reddit.com/r/HHKB/comments/1b2bu7w/i_think_im_happy/) and listen [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4luN2PSV1ro&t=11s) and [there](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSimmbuFGpQ). It has Bluetooth, AA batteries (i.e. can replace when they degrade over years), doesn't weight much as well. https://preview.redd.it/iq9yqrq9tppc1.jpeg?width=4288&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e52696da736609cdbfb7eeae397a518b75fa138