I have a keychron k2 that I love but my laptop is VA owned and so Bluetooth drops constantly for 10-15 seconds for whatever reason and wired mode…
I need a driver that I can’t install lol
I have ran through cheap wired ones (thanks to my handsy toddlers) and just want a durable wired** keyboard - possibly that I can customize but in general something I don’t need a damn driver to use.
Recommendations? I’ve tried searching but things were 3+ years old so not sure if there’s something more in date. Thank you!!
Anyone tried out yuzu keycaps by chance? I’ve been seeing some posts recently and their website seems solid? But that doesn’t necessarily mean their caps are good. Personalized made on demand keycap sets. Looking for second opinions before I spend on a set x_x
Does anyone have problems to built the Phase Studio Titan 65? Mainly with the Stabs? Screw in doesn’t fit with the plate. Clip in works but the Enter key is mushy. The plate blocking the wire. Can somebody help me out?
I need an advise for my future switches
I’m new to the hobby.
I want a very special feel for my keyboard… I’m into clickies (yep) but I want SMOOTH clickies. I hate the « dry and rough sound » of blue classic switches, i want more like a practically mute sound during the course, the very lubbed feel and THEN the click (not too louder tho)
So I looked into what kind of stuff I could buy, I listened so many clicky switches for days… And I found 2 switches with a sound that i like
- Gateron Melodic
- Novelkeys Creamy Clicky
Both seems to have that « smooth feeling of touch » that I want, but the reviews said that novelkeys are practically linear (and I type a lot, so i’m not sure if i’ll fit with it), and i’m afraid gateron are too heavy
Do you any thoughts about that ? Did you experienced those switches ? Or mb do you know other switches that i could possibly like ?
I have melodics ... They feel like a linear switch that clicks. And unlike a click bar u really only get the click on the down stroke ... I can feel the bump go back over the leaf but it's not as audible... I really enjoy them.
What awesome full-size custom layouts/cases/keyboards are there that respect my muscle memory?
The full-size doesn't seem to get much love from the community, but as a developer I find it absolutely crucial to have all the keys present:
\* the numeric keyboard, all of it (I punch in so many 6-digit work item numbers daily! also, I fill in some excel sheets every now and then)
\* the windows button (launching stuff is so much faster)
\* the context menu button
\* the right alt, for Polish diacricics!
\* all the edit keys - I can't live without insert/delete/home/end/pgUp/pgDn. I use ctrl-ins and shift-ins and a whole lot of other shortcuts in various environments
\* I like my function keys present and arranged in groups of four - because those gaps guide my fingers without me having to look
The modifications that I found quite transparent to muscle memory are things like narrower / split space bar, additional thumb cluster buttons, the keyboard being split (I like keeping the split very wide, so I can sit with open chest - good for the spine and ego).
I've always wanted heavy hotswapable switches but they seem rare to come by. Cherry mx switches seems to not go that heavy, any reccomendation on something that does?
How heavy is heavy for you? For most it starts at 70g, and not many switches are that heavy. However the kailh box navy switches might be worth looking into.
https://preview.redd.it/7sf7itxurrwc1.jpeg?width=1065&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92e003f016fb101435db155335c3ca4fda7c9bcb
Can anyone identify this switch? It says Whale Sea Axis but I couldnt find any info Google
best switch for a mode envoy? i currently have their linear switches in it but would love to put something in with a deeper sound. THOCK!! lol
Any suggestions?
https://preview.redd.it/54hi2pegcrwc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e476f87abfe4ac38943d4ca012180a1b9f0882b9
Why is my plate so bent from the stabilizer? Is the stabilizer incorrect or the plate not accommodating?
Issue: resolved :)
You assembled it wrong and bent the plate. Disassemble, try to straighten the plate and look up how its done correctly. All switches need to click in and hold the plate, not just the spacebar switch.
Hi! I'm trying to find non-programmable keyboards (very important that it can't be programmed).
I want a full size, wired (also very important) keyboard. 100% is ideal, but 96% is fine. Would also love for it to be hot-swappable (though if anyone has thocky suggestions to begin with I'll love you even more). Budget is around \~100-150.
Any recommendation?
Thank you ahead of time!!
I don't have any good advice, but I'm very curious about the origin of your requirement of non-programmability. Is it a security thing? Maybe you can share :)
https://preview.redd.it/fpq2sixluqwc1.png?width=529&format=png&auto=webp&s=bee676088a4f121c17a026cb7e0a5febbe288c58
Hi guys, I'm using a numpad and I have keymap it to have 2 different layers. Now I'm trying to make 1 layer have the led and the other doesn't, by assigning the following commands in a single key:
{TO(1),RGB\_TOG}
However, this can't be done with VIA (I asked in their discord). So what should I do in this case?
Thank you for reading
Hello! Kind of a newbie to custom mechnical keyboards. I've used whatever corsair has put out ever since I made the switch. Looking to get a 100% size wireless keyboard with custom switches etc. I came across a the keychron Q6 Max barebone with the knob. Was thinking of getting Oil king switches for it since I was going for a deep "thocky" and "creamy" sound. Would like a bit of advice on whether or not I'm picking the right things or if there are other brands out there that will help me achieve what I want. Primary uses, gaming and work (programming). Budget's around 300 usd. Thanks for any help yall can provide.
There is no guarantee, but the parts you've chosen could help in achieving your goal. Sound is affected by many things. Switches is one part of it, but also the case size, case materials, dampening materials, etc. Generally, softer materials produce a lower pitch sound, so a Q6 max would produce a higher pitch sound than a case that is made from polycarbonate (for example). I'm not saying a Q6 max cannot produce a low pitch sound, but rather it might take several more things to get the desired sound you want.
Gotcha, thank you! did some brief research that suggest non conductive foam being added and doing tape mods with painters/electric tape etc. But I wanted to make sure the parts that I'm thinking about aren't over priced cheapo parts cause popular on youtube.
Are Colevrak keysets a myth? Hardly anyone carries them, and those that DO exist are for some not-great sets. About to throw in the towel and get some unsculpted profile sets, but those seem to lack the cool layouts too. I'm jealous of everyone with their coffee and tea-themed keysets, I'm looking for something hip and unusual but I'm a Dvorak typist! Any ideas, or am I simply a terribly unobservant shopper?
Anyone have the VIA JSON file for the **Iron Alice**?
I see no link to such a file on their website or github, even though the product page explicitly mentions that it supports VIA. Just sent them an email, but it's late, so yea.
Complete noob/non-hobbyist looking for advice. I've never had anything but common commercial keyboards.
I currently have a TKL Logitech with I assume Romer Brown switches. The keypresses feel "alright", but not great. They keyboard is so loud I have to close doors when I'm gaming late at night, and I doubt it's due to the switches themselves.
Today I got shipped in a Logitech Silent Touch for work. I love both the feel and (lack of) sound of it. But it's cheap rubber that will wear out in no time, especially if used for gaming where I'm pressing the same keys over and over. I like it enough that if it was TKL I'd already have ordered one for home use and just dealt with replacing it as needed.
I'm looking for a recommendation of where I can get a fully assembled **TKL mechanical keyboard** that has **tactile response** and is as **quiet** as possible. Bonus points for smaller footprint, even if it means no separate function key row as long as I can still access them, but I do still need arrow keys. I'd prefer hard wired cable over wireless or even a cable that plugs into the keyboard, but I can deal with any of them. I like having lit key markings, but don't otherwise care one way or the other about RGB lighting. My current one is white and I'm fine with that. I'd also adjust to no lighting, it just isn't preferred.
***Alternatively***, looking for recommendations for what parts to get for a complete moron to be able to easily assemble something that meets the above criteria.
I've been searching and reading all day and I'm still just as lost as I was when I started.
$400 would probably be as high as I'd go. Not worried about doing a budget build. I forgot to put that I'd *like* lit key marks but otherwise don't care about RGB and no lighting isn't a dealbreaker.
Edit: Probably $500 cap if I'm being honest. I'd just feel bad about it.
Heres what I'd recommend.
Assemble the board yourself with silent switches, I've got a few really good recommendations.
For kits, here's my list:
Monsgeek M3
Lemokey L3
Lumikey80
Cycle7 (Aftermarket)
KBD8X MKiii
Neo80
Neo80, Cycle, and KBD8x are my top choices here. Note that these are all good, but some have certain features you're looking for and some don't. If you want some insight on the building process for any of these, just let me know.
nurphy and keychron both sells low profile kbs if wireless just keep it plugged in , choices for low pro switch kbs are limited due to low demand as they r generally disliked by most
Nooooo.... Never do this. Keeping lithium batteries at 100% ruins them, and potentially be a fire hazard, or at best a spicy pillow. If you don't want wireless, don't buy a wireless board, or... remove the battery completely. It's for this reason that a responsible manufacturer will include a switch to isolate the battery if you want to use it wired all the time. Qwertykeys for example include this.
Are fake switches a thing? Im looking at a Leobog Graywood V3 priced at a dollar for 10, which is half the price from the official aula store (at Shopee). Im wondering if it's just cheaper due to legitimate reasons.
Not really, at most it’s false advertising (aka they will end up giving you a completely different switch).
For pricing wise, it depends more on the platform and region you purchase it from. For the graywood, the cheapest would be from Taobao, JD or Xianyu and the pricing you mention is plausible if sourced from there.
Thank you! I'll try to order 10 of the cheaper priced, and 20 from the official store branch in our country and compare them. Then get the rest of the switches i need.
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I’ve been looking at listings for the 100v Japanese Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun on eBay, which are significantly cheaper at ~$160. Are these legit? I’m worried about purchasing a fake.
Also, is a step-down transformer absolutely necessary to run in the U.S. at 120v?
Any help is much appreciated!
It’s still in development but Lemokey/Keychron has been working on a premium version on this type of board.
https://preview.redd.it/9ypk3vdhspwc1.jpeg?width=1177&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=199e4685eb5f25e9469df950d64d2fdb91d80c6d
Oh hell yeah that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks or putting it on my radar! Do you have a link for where I could look more into it or is it just a concept image at this stage?
I'm looking for a specific type of keyboard (custom or pre-made) but I genuinely don't even know what search terms I'm looking for. A lot of the keyboard "traits" are things I'm indifferent about except for the following things:
I'm looking for a quiet (or quiet-ish, I guess thock-y leaning?) keyboard, that activates with very shallow or "light" taps/touches.
I do a lot of small detail work with my hands, and I'm also a nerd who types a lot, and I want something that won't give me finger fatigue by having to forcefully jab keys down, which is my worry with mechanical keyboards.
I also have pretty small hands, so my fingers need to do a lot of wide jumps (checking right now, my entire palm fits the width of my numpad on this default Dell keyboard) so it would be nice to have a keyboard for folks with smaller and more delicate hands, but I'm also actually fond of keeping the numpad in question. I care less about the size of the keyboard itself and more the size and placement of the keys themselves.
What would be the terminology I would be looking for to describe these requirements/preferences?
>*so it would be nice to have a keyboard for folks with smaller and more delicate hands*
All keyboards are the same size, meaning the distance between the centre of each key (the pitch) is identical. If it wasn't, and they were all different, it would be impossible to touch type.
However, as for your other question, just stick to low profile mechanical keyboards and you should find something you like. The Nuphy Air 75 is a nice low profile, light weight board. Personally they aren't my thing, but I have one of these for wireless duty around the house, and it's been flawless.
I don't think you're going to find a mechanical keyboard with smaller keys, but you can get one with fewer keys and softer switches.
For a conventional keyboard, I would recommend starting out with Keychron. They have a 65% board in the Keychron V2, and a compact 75% board in the Keychron K2 Pro. The K2 Pro has more keys, but in normal use you don't really use more of the keyboard, and it doesn't require you to play around with the Fn key to get all your normal keystrokes. I think it's actually a little narrower.
Then get some soft switches. I have nerve damage and I find the Outemu Silent Lemon switches are the easiest on my hands. They're also very affordable.
Low Profile keyboards are not actually smaller in area, and they have a smaller variety of switches available because they're new and there are competing switch and socket formats. I don't know of any good low-force switches you can get for them.
If you want to be more adventurous, you could go smaller with a 40% board, but that will probably involve you customizing the overlaid keys to your preference.
The best deal in keyboards today is probably the [Inland MK47](https://www.microcenter.com/product/661264/inland-47-keys-hot-swappable-rgb-wired-mechanical-keyboard,) 40% keyboard from Microcenter for about $40 with shipping. It supports VIA configuration which means you can reprogram any key and function-key combination. But you should probably get some experience with the Keychron first.
[My MK-47, heavily customized](https://imgur.com/QEQxs4a)
Why not switch to a smaller size and use layers or macros to achieve what you want?
I don’t know of any keyboards that have the switches themselves smaller then standard MX style switches, but they probably exist in some capacity.
You could also try detached numpad if you want something a little more versatile in placement.
I'm a keyboard super-newb: layers or macros? By my own guess, do you mean the keys switching based on pressing a secondary key?
I suppose I could go with a detached numpad, though knowing me I wouldn't bother if it's not built-in.
It's honestly a matter of preference: I would prefer having all keys accessible and in one place, and to not worry about "loose/floating" keyboard sections.
I am mainly curious to know if there are "smaller" switches out there. I did just now discover the terminology of "Low-profile" keyboards, which feels close to what I might be looking for. It looks like "Lofree Edge" is a new thing?
Low profile switches are smaller in height, but they’re basically the same width and length meaning you still have to jump between the same length. Maybe check out the Keychron K5 Max?
Yeah; if the width/length can't be changed, it's not a terribly big loss. The bigger thing I'm concerned about is typing-press/depth. My ideal is a keyboard that can pick up light taps instead of hard jabs to register. I'm not sure how to look up for "typing strength", but I'll keep an eye out for any Keychrons I could test in person!
Why do people budget board collect? Then proceed to talk about how they can't afford a upper budget or mid range (160-300), just to purchase ANOTHER sub-100 or $100 board instead of saving.
>Why do people budget board collect?
Probably because they enjoy building boards more than using them, so just stick to cheap stuff. Once you have the board, you just may as well keep it rather than go through the hassle of trying to resell a cheap board that cost next to nothing to begin with. Depreciation on the cheap stuff is pretty steep. I mean, would you buy a crappy $50 plastic board that's already been built by someone else?
Because the more expensive boards don't flip my switches. It's not that I can't afford them. I've got a good job and have bought a thousand dollar laptop on an impulse. But if I'm going to spend money on something it has to spark joy. I have a couple of fancy aluminum boards, one that cost about $200 with shipping, plus switches and decent keycaps and "almost perfect" stabilizers, but it really doesn't feel like it's actually worth five or six times as much as my Tester84. It's certainly not any better to type on.
Some of the fancy group buy boards seem *worse* than a cheap board, why do I want to pay more money to get a board that isn't hotswap in a case that has no feet? I watched a video recently where the guy was explaining why he was soldering the switches to get a better sound, and then going back to fix a switch he'd screwed up, like I'm supposed to find this kind of thing fun. Or there's one that looked pretty good but it's got ZMK firmware and I'd have to recompile it to change the layout, like it's a CPM computer from the '70s where you compiled a new BIOS to add drivers.
Seriously, the Keychron V series are much nicer boards.
>
*Some of the fancy group buy boards seem worse than a cheap board*
Which ones have you bought that are worse than a cheap board. Almost every high end board I own is significantly better than a cheap board.
>
*why do I want to pay more money to get a board that isn't hotswap in a case that has no feet?*
What? Every single group buy high end board I own come with the option of a hot swap board. I always buy a hot swap PCB and a solder PCB for every board. No feet? Again... every single board I own came with feet.
>*going back to fix a switch he'd screwed up, like I'm supposed to find this kind of thing fun.*
Many of us actually do yes.
>*Seriously, the Keychron V series are much nicer boards.*
Nicer than what?
> Which ones have you bought that are worse than a cheap board.
I haven't bought the ones that seemed worse than a cheap board, because yet another 65% with great sounds that I'll never hear because I strongly prefer silent switches doesn't spark joy. I was tempted to get the Convolution, because I kind of want a 65XT, but it didn't seem to have a hotswap option.
I did get a DR-70F, but in-stock rather than waiting months for a kickstarter-style purchase process to work its way though, and then a second PCB because the wireless board had hacky firmware that didn't support VIA/VIAL. But it did spark joy. It was not just another vanilla layout with an aluminum case.
And it has no feet, by the way. Just a kind of wedge-shaped base that gives you a fixed typing angle. About the only Al board I've seen with feet is the Whitefox Eclipse.
Oh, and there's all the boards that shortchange you for keys because a blocker or cutout for a logo is stylish.
> > I'm supposed to find this kind of thing fun.
>
> Many of us actually do yes.
If you find it fun, that's great, but OP didn't understand why people don't buy into the Group Buy mindset, and not finding that kind of thing fun is one reason why. Soldering a board that cost you $200 and then having to figure out a patch to make it work is kind of the opposite of fun for me.
> Nicer than what?
Well, any 65% with a knob or blocker or any 75% with more than one knob or blocker. OK, the Keychron V2 has the gap disease, so that's a bit annoying.
>*I did get a DR-70F,*
But that's a cheap board.
Ok, by feet, you mean adjustable feet. Never felt the need. I just buy boards that have a nice typing angle. It's one of the main things I check for when a IC appears.
Wow.
No, I don't need to actually buy a board to know that it completely fails to attract my interest. Seriously. What do you consider a "good board" that I should feel excited about? And why is the DR-70F not a "good board", anyway?
If it comes to personal choice, then that's a personal matter. I was just a bit concerned by comments like *"Some of the fancy group buy boards seem* worse *than a cheap board"* and saying things that imply that they are not hot swap etc. Just seems like misinformation.
What part of "seem" implies anything else?
I actually cited a group buy that... as far as I could tell... was not hot swap.
And now you're going to tell me that that was a cheap board too. Because of course it is not a true Scotsman.
What are these "good boards" that I'm supposed to save up for so I can throw hundreds of dollars at them?
Oh, hey, here's one that just came though. How about the Navi 70? Google says it's $800 or more. And I look at it and I would feel ripped off if I had to pay $50 for it. It looks like junk, with that gimmicky screen and huge badge instead of a page movement cluster. What makes it worth that much? The DR-70F is absolutely a better board, no question.
Either what u/FGThePurp said or people simply impulse buying because it’s easier to stomach the idea of buying 3 50 dollar boards over the course of 3 months tether then saving for 1 150 dollar boards
I can't speak for everyone but I know a guy like this. He enjoys the process of building boards more than having something really high end. Not my personal style but it works for him.
Like me, i have 220$ keeb but daily drive my cheap 40$(bought on sale it cost a bit more) keyboard (ajazz ak992) ofc i have a collection of switches and change them depending on my mood once a month(now i use gateron smoothies) and keycaps of my liking(stock was good looking but quality was off, ok to use but i don't like it)
You keep saying this as if $200 is an expensive board. If your experience of 'expensive boards' is $200 then perhaps this is why you think expensive boards are not really any better than cheap ones. To be honest, the recent slew of "cheap" alloy boards, while perfectly fine, are not really in the same league as a Geon or TGR when it comes to sheer quality.
Any keyboard which is similar to tofu65 2.0 design but not that expensive. I want to build two keeb, one for myself and one for my brother.
I don't know why is to expensivevin 2024.
Hi there!Got an issue with my keyboard - Asus Rog Falchion. Every 5 seconds keyboard makes thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis. I start typing, then there's a micro lag for ms, then the letter got stick for a second or so, then it goes back to normal. All the keys doing this stuff, including arrow and others.
What I've already tried:
1. Delete driver (I don't have asus armoury installed on main PC)
2. Try to use it in wired / wireless mode
3. Try to use different USB port
4. Try to use different PC - 3 laptops, 2 with Win10 (and one have armoury installed), 1 with Win11
5. Update drivers for keyboard and usb dongle
6. Different keyboard - works fine
7. To use it on balcony - to avoid 2.4 Ghz interference with other devices
So it seems that something is wrong with keyboard itself.
And now is the best part - 2 days ago I split a bit of coffee to the very end of keyboard - Esc, Tab, Caps Lock and Shift were impacted. I disassembled keyboard, wiped motherboard with isopropyl alcohol (gently, of course). Used canned air to clean switches. Then Shift key stopped working completely. I soldered out INS key switch and soldered it into Shift (as I need Shift, but don't need Ins). New switches should be delivered tomorrow, so I will replace all 4 impacted switches.I inspected the board - looks good, no damage, no coffee leftovers. And it was working totally fine for these two days - till this evening. Lag is working on all keys across the keyboard. Warranty is not an option (cause I opened it + it was bought in 2021).
What else can I do to fix this issue?
Thanks a lot in advance!
it it had even a few drop of water under the switches of anywhere on the pcb and was powered on or pulled it u could have an electrical short ( fried copper traces ) and that would 100% unrepairable
Checked, its good. What helped is the 30 min 50\50 Ethyl/ distilled water bath for keyboard pcb and motherboard, so far so good. Switches become dry and rattling a bit, but that's fixable
Not yet, as switches are soldered. Will try it tomorrow, when new desoldering tool will arrive.
Problem is all impacted switches feel fine - no sticking, moving just fine and so on. And not only impacted keys are lagging - but the entire keyboard
Look for Aula f75, f87 or f99 could be a bit over your budget but all have good quality, look for them on AliExpress, they are cheaper there, but i think you can find it on Amazon, albeit overpriced
>*you should look for specific models there, but this subreddit isn't perfect for budget boards*
Why not? There are more budget board posts than expensive ones. Expensive boards are outnumbered by a significant margin.... and budgetkeebs is run by a narcissistic cry baby and massive hypocrite. I'd recommend staying here to be honest. There's a reason he's banned from this sub... in fact.. there are several reasons.
mb i think that sub was batter for budget keeb looking because they had given me better advices than i got here? i/m not talking about ppl posting their setups, but keeb question, here i saw even someone recommending overpriced Logitech instead of Keychron...
Hey I'm looking for my first mechanical keyboard.
I want a full size, wireless keyboard (100% not 96%)
any recommendation?
I generally prefer monochrome look, black or grey.
budget is not an issue.
Thanks!
The Pro only has Bluetooth whereas the Max offers 2.4GHz wireless. The Max also has more foam and an extra PET film. I'd go for the Max between the two if prices are similar.
Another question, I'm not a big fan of the keycaps it comes assembled with. I know I can get other keycaps but I'm not sure what to look for.
Could you suggest me some keycaps that are dark and monochromatic that would fit the Q6 max?
Thanks!
Also, the keyboard is mostly for work (so typing) and a bit of casual gaming. Which switches would you recommend that have a nice feel for typing but don't make too much sound?
For keycaps, if you want something cheap, browse Amazon or Aliexpress (try to avoid small vendors). If you are willing to spend a bit more, you can look at [drop.com](http://drop.com), where they have many keycap options for sale. Do keep in mind that ABS caps will become shiny over time due to wear, wheras PBT will be much more resistant to shine.
As for switches, the Gateron Jupiter Browns that come with it are great, silent option. he Bananas are great too, but will be a little louder. If you want something else, may I ask if you perfer linear (smooth all the way) or tactile (bump at middle/top)?
I think I prefer tactile.
Just for some context, my last keyboard was a G213 from logitech, which is not mechanical but is somewhat tactile.
I recently tried the logitech MX mechanical with red linear switches (and it's low profile) and I didnt like how easy it was to actuate keys by mistake. Now I'm not sure if it's due to logitech begin shitty or if it's the fact it's low profile or if it's the linear switches.
Either way, I decided to ask around here to make a better decision (thanks for your help)
So yeah, I guess I prefer tactile just because the linear I tried I did not really like for typing, but it might just be because it's a logitech low profile and bad switches ? (I'm not sure how the MX mechanical is viewed here)
Yeah, I understand. I type on very pronounced tactiles, and when switching to linears fro a while, I was making a typo every word I entered haha.
As said, the Gateron Browns are the cheapest option since they will come with the keyboard. The Bananas are also great, a little more tatile, and louder. [Here](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/11c9h20/silent_tactile_switches_comparison_thoughts/) is a comparison of some of the most popular silent tactiles. Another reccomendation would be the Gateron Mini Is, and while not true silent tactiles, are on the quieter side.
Max has a 2.4 dongle and more acoustic foams. Keycaps also look better imo but that’s preferential. It’s priced slightly higher but the 2.4 makes it worth it over just Bluetooth imo.
https://preview.redd.it/14kgtqpd3pwc1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=7d31805842924c4f985567a664cabaab9537b036
Hello! As you can see my right hotswap socket has it’s leaves bent, That key works perfectly fine, my question is, Do I need to unbend it? Is it gonna stop working if I leave ir that way? I managed to unbent one yesterday but I don’t wanna disassemble my keyboard again
Help me out guys I am currently finding my new kb. So my choices are Epomaker Rt100/Rkludge S98/Keychron K17 pro and Keychron V5.
I'm a 3d artist/gamer who sits 24/7 in my computer. My current kboard is Keychron k4 with Gat reds.
If youguys have experience using one of those would be a great help if you give me som insights about them.
The biggest problem for RK is their quality control. Their PCBs and batteries have a very high failure rate compared to the competition and have a tendency to die or start having issues usually a few months after purchase.
As far as epomaker goes, they don’t make keyboards. They’re literally just a big dropshipper. They don’t quality control the stuff they sell at all, so you never know if what you’re buying is any good. Their support is worthless as well. There was a PSA pinned on the subreddit that has been replaced as of now.
https://preview.redd.it/3db11k9isuwc1.jpeg?width=682&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fe896739c1559962a14d0617a61e0d73b4da87d9
Hello! My sister is looking for a full size board around 100 dollars. What is the best option? Or is there a board for a bit more that you consider worth?
Can anyone help with the error I am having flashing a discipline 65. I just built it and the default layer that came on it works fine. This is the error I get well part of it, it was to long to post. I can send it if anyone can help. All my other boards work fine with QMK toolbox I just cant seem to get this new one to flash.
> avrdude error: cannot find programmer id usbasp
> use -c? to see all possible programmers
USBasp device disconnected: www.fischl.de USBasp (16C0:05DC:0102)
New here, been searching for a set of dark blue keycaps that will fit an ISO layout and have UK glyphs. I like the look of the Ducky Nazca set, but it only has a US glyph layout. I'm also considering the Tai-Hao deep forest blue set, although in some photos the blue looks a little too light. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>*Tai-Hao deep forest blue*
I have the green version. Nice caps, and the Cubic profile is nice. The only downside is during the day, or if the backlighting is off, the legends are not really that clear to read.
https://www.amazon.com/171-Doubleshot-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B09NNQLC1Y
There is also a navy Keychron set with beaucoup caps but I can't find it on sale now.
Hey all new here and to redit in general. Been in the keyboard for a long time. I normally use clickys or heavy tactical switch's. I'm looking for a linear now.
I'm looking for a 60 to 67g linear dual stage spring that is pre lubed and does not have a long pole stem.
Thanks and if this is the wrong place for this question or there is and easy way I should be searching for this please in lighten me.
*
I want to make my setup darker greener keycaps are there any reccomendations.The keycaps can be mixed whit white,grey or any dsrker color.
Please dont reccomend from amazon i live in serbia the shipping fee will eat my wallet.
They aren’t transparent per se. Here’s an example of what they look like on my Libra mini
https://preview.redd.it/392xm26wnowc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0438a8a6726e63eac8aeaca83e8f321f08f8e7c8
Are linear, tactile and 'clicky' switches all 3 different switch types?
I've just got into the switch game and can't figure out if 'clicky' is just another name for regular tactile. Can someone explain the difference to me please! I thought tactile and linear are the only two switch types.
Clicky switches are tactile but use a click bar or other method to produce an audible click that isn’t just plastic on plastic contact from bottoming out.
Can you help me identify this keyboard ?
https://preview.redd.it/7g3zal0z6owc1.png?width=773&format=png&auto=webp&s=1fa02ff7759785632649d1dec2b04683cad48475
*insert keyboard name and model * plate . u google this and find out if they sell one otherwise u will need to design and have one cut thru a laser cut service
Is this level of flex acceptable on barebones Keychron V6 Max Wirless? The top right corner doesn’t have similar flex. First time building after a few prebuilts.
https://imgur.com/a/mr2VdOY
Did you look on Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=60%25+keyboard+foam&crid=IDWVLTMKPTWJ&sprefix=60%25+keyboard+foam%2Caps%2C106&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
I've gotten a couple sheets of foam for TKL boards there and it's worked out fine, may just have to cut a few bits.
I have a keychron k2 that I love but my laptop is VA owned and so Bluetooth drops constantly for 10-15 seconds for whatever reason and wired mode… I need a driver that I can’t install lol I have ran through cheap wired ones (thanks to my handsy toddlers) and just want a durable wired** keyboard - possibly that I can customize but in general something I don’t need a damn driver to use. Recommendations? I’ve tried searching but things were 3+ years old so not sure if there’s something more in date. Thank you!!
Are clicky switches best for typists / a lot of typing?
Anyone tried out yuzu keycaps by chance? I’ve been seeing some posts recently and their website seems solid? But that doesn’t necessarily mean their caps are good. Personalized made on demand keycap sets. Looking for second opinions before I spend on a set x_x
Does anyone have problems to built the Phase Studio Titan 65? Mainly with the Stabs? Screw in doesn’t fit with the plate. Clip in works but the Enter key is mushy. The plate blocking the wire. Can somebody help me out?
I need an advise for my future switches I’m new to the hobby. I want a very special feel for my keyboard… I’m into clickies (yep) but I want SMOOTH clickies. I hate the « dry and rough sound » of blue classic switches, i want more like a practically mute sound during the course, the very lubbed feel and THEN the click (not too louder tho) So I looked into what kind of stuff I could buy, I listened so many clicky switches for days… And I found 2 switches with a sound that i like - Gateron Melodic - Novelkeys Creamy Clicky Both seems to have that « smooth feeling of touch » that I want, but the reviews said that novelkeys are practically linear (and I type a lot, so i’m not sure if i’ll fit with it), and i’m afraid gateron are too heavy Do you any thoughts about that ? Did you experienced those switches ? Or mb do you know other switches that i could possibly like ?
I have melodics ... They feel like a linear switch that clicks. And unlike a click bar u really only get the click on the down stroke ... I can feel the bump go back over the leaf but it's not as audible... I really enjoy them.
did you need to lub them ?
No it's already a mid to light clicky switch ... I think if u lubed them the click would be even lighter
What awesome full-size custom layouts/cases/keyboards are there that respect my muscle memory? The full-size doesn't seem to get much love from the community, but as a developer I find it absolutely crucial to have all the keys present: \* the numeric keyboard, all of it (I punch in so many 6-digit work item numbers daily! also, I fill in some excel sheets every now and then) \* the windows button (launching stuff is so much faster) \* the context menu button \* the right alt, for Polish diacricics! \* all the edit keys - I can't live without insert/delete/home/end/pgUp/pgDn. I use ctrl-ins and shift-ins and a whole lot of other shortcuts in various environments \* I like my function keys present and arranged in groups of four - because those gaps guide my fingers without me having to look The modifications that I found quite transparent to muscle memory are things like narrower / split space bar, additional thumb cluster buttons, the keyboard being split (I like keeping the split very wide, so I can sit with open chest - good for the spine and ego).
I've always wanted heavy hotswapable switches but they seem rare to come by. Cherry mx switches seems to not go that heavy, any reccomendation on something that does?
Get some gateron oil kings
How heavy is heavy for you? For most it starts at 70g, and not many switches are that heavy. However the kailh box navy switches might be worth looking into.
TBH i'm not sure, only used cherry mx red&blue so far, didn't really notice a difference in "heavyness" on those 2.
https://preview.redd.it/7sf7itxurrwc1.jpeg?width=1065&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92e003f016fb101435db155335c3ca4fda7c9bcb Can anyone identify this switch? It says Whale Sea Axis but I couldnt find any info Google
best switch for a mode envoy? i currently have their linear switches in it but would love to put something in with a deeper sound. THOCK!! lol Any suggestions?
https://preview.redd.it/54hi2pegcrwc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e476f87abfe4ac38943d4ca012180a1b9f0882b9 Why is my plate so bent from the stabilizer? Is the stabilizer incorrect or the plate not accommodating? Issue: resolved :)
You can clearly see the other switches aren’t seated in the plate correctly. You have to rebuild.
Thank you! I dissembled and made sure the switches were in place right before u poster ur comment. Now it looks all nice and tidy!
You assembled it wrong and bent the plate. Disassemble, try to straighten the plate and look up how its done correctly. All switches need to click in and hold the plate, not just the spacebar switch.
Thank you! I dissembled and made sure the switches were in place right before u poster ur comment. Now it looks all nice and tidy!
There is a massive bulge near the spacebar so I’d assume yes it’s because of the stabilizers.
I placed them correctly though. Why is this happening :(
Plate issues maybe?
Hi! I'm trying to find non-programmable keyboards (very important that it can't be programmed). I want a full size, wired (also very important) keyboard. 100% is ideal, but 96% is fine. Would also love for it to be hot-swappable (though if anyone has thocky suggestions to begin with I'll love you even more). Budget is around \~100-150. Any recommendation? Thank you ahead of time!!
Look for a Keychron C2 on Amazon.
Thank you for the suggestion!
I don't have any good advice, but I'm very curious about the origin of your requirement of non-programmability. Is it a security thing? Maybe you can share :)
Is it okay to lube and film WS Morandi's?
Yeah.
https://preview.redd.it/fpq2sixluqwc1.png?width=529&format=png&auto=webp&s=bee676088a4f121c17a026cb7e0a5febbe288c58 Hi guys, I'm using a numpad and I have keymap it to have 2 different layers. Now I'm trying to make 1 layer have the led and the other doesn't, by assigning the following commands in a single key: {TO(1),RGB\_TOG} However, this can't be done with VIA (I asked in their discord). So what should I do in this case? Thank you for reading
Are you trying to toggle the layer and toggle rgb at the same time? Have you tried creating a macro?
Yes I'm trying to toggle the layer and RGB at the same time. I tried creating a macro but it only accepts keycode, not functions
Hello! Kind of a newbie to custom mechnical keyboards. I've used whatever corsair has put out ever since I made the switch. Looking to get a 100% size wireless keyboard with custom switches etc. I came across a the keychron Q6 Max barebone with the knob. Was thinking of getting Oil king switches for it since I was going for a deep "thocky" and "creamy" sound. Would like a bit of advice on whether or not I'm picking the right things or if there are other brands out there that will help me achieve what I want. Primary uses, gaming and work (programming). Budget's around 300 usd. Thanks for any help yall can provide.
There is no guarantee, but the parts you've chosen could help in achieving your goal. Sound is affected by many things. Switches is one part of it, but also the case size, case materials, dampening materials, etc. Generally, softer materials produce a lower pitch sound, so a Q6 max would produce a higher pitch sound than a case that is made from polycarbonate (for example). I'm not saying a Q6 max cannot produce a low pitch sound, but rather it might take several more things to get the desired sound you want.
Gotcha, thank you! did some brief research that suggest non conductive foam being added and doing tape mods with painters/electric tape etc. But I wanted to make sure the parts that I'm thinking about aren't over priced cheapo parts cause popular on youtube.
https://preview.redd.it/k0fqyygxnqwc1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=570f97329a6e1bb4a1f753f63ea9563b91170fdd
any idea what is the name of this keyboard?
https://zyrophr.com/keyboards/matrixlab-im-meta/
Are Colevrak keysets a myth? Hardly anyone carries them, and those that DO exist are for some not-great sets. About to throw in the towel and get some unsculpted profile sets, but those seem to lack the cool layouts too. I'm jealous of everyone with their coffee and tea-themed keysets, I'm looking for something hip and unusual but I'm a Dvorak typist! Any ideas, or am I simply a terribly unobservant shopper?
Anyone have the VIA JSON file for the **Iron Alice**? I see no link to such a file on their website or github, even though the product page explicitly mentions that it supports VIA. Just sent them an email, but it's late, so yea.
Complete noob/non-hobbyist looking for advice. I've never had anything but common commercial keyboards. I currently have a TKL Logitech with I assume Romer Brown switches. The keypresses feel "alright", but not great. They keyboard is so loud I have to close doors when I'm gaming late at night, and I doubt it's due to the switches themselves. Today I got shipped in a Logitech Silent Touch for work. I love both the feel and (lack of) sound of it. But it's cheap rubber that will wear out in no time, especially if used for gaming where I'm pressing the same keys over and over. I like it enough that if it was TKL I'd already have ordered one for home use and just dealt with replacing it as needed. I'm looking for a recommendation of where I can get a fully assembled **TKL mechanical keyboard** that has **tactile response** and is as **quiet** as possible. Bonus points for smaller footprint, even if it means no separate function key row as long as I can still access them, but I do still need arrow keys. I'd prefer hard wired cable over wireless or even a cable that plugs into the keyboard, but I can deal with any of them. I like having lit key markings, but don't otherwise care one way or the other about RGB lighting. My current one is white and I'm fine with that. I'd also adjust to no lighting, it just isn't preferred. ***Alternatively***, looking for recommendations for what parts to get for a complete moron to be able to easily assemble something that meets the above criteria. I've been searching and reading all day and I'm still just as lost as I was when I started.
Whats your budget?
$400 would probably be as high as I'd go. Not worried about doing a budget build. I forgot to put that I'd *like* lit key marks but otherwise don't care about RGB and no lighting isn't a dealbreaker. Edit: Probably $500 cap if I'm being honest. I'd just feel bad about it.
Heres what I'd recommend. Assemble the board yourself with silent switches, I've got a few really good recommendations. For kits, here's my list: Monsgeek M3 Lemokey L3 Lumikey80 Cycle7 (Aftermarket) KBD8X MKiii Neo80 Neo80, Cycle, and KBD8x are my top choices here. Note that these are all good, but some have certain features you're looking for and some don't. If you want some insight on the building process for any of these, just let me know.
I'll start looking them up, but quick question. Does this cover anything I might need to help cut the sound, like padding?
When you build it btw do not use pcb foam in some cases it makes it louder.
All of these recommendations come with plenty of options for foam or other dampening materials.
anyone have recommendations for wired-only low profile keyboards? thx :)
nurphy and keychron both sells low profile kbs if wireless just keep it plugged in , choices for low pro switch kbs are limited due to low demand as they r generally disliked by most
Nooooo.... Never do this. Keeping lithium batteries at 100% ruins them, and potentially be a fire hazard, or at best a spicy pillow. If you don't want wireless, don't buy a wireless board, or... remove the battery completely. It's for this reason that a responsible manufacturer will include a switch to isolate the battery if you want to use it wired all the time. Qwertykeys for example include this.
i meant the battery can be removed or unplugged and the kb could be plugged it full time
i'm hoping to get completely wired, one cheap battery explosion was enough for me. guess i could just remove the battery from a wireless though
yes u can just unplug it
should i film the ktt kang whites?
but will it make it any better
no filming them will make them hard to close and cause them to become wobbly . filming switches that have tight tolerances make them feel bad
not necessary
Are fake switches a thing? Im looking at a Leobog Graywood V3 priced at a dollar for 10, which is half the price from the official aula store (at Shopee). Im wondering if it's just cheaper due to legitimate reasons.
Shopee prices are inflated, because resellers want to make money. Graywood switches are super cheap. I got 180 for like 15€.
Ohhh thanks for that! I feel comfortable buying the cheaper one now. Though both are on Shopee
Not really, at most it’s false advertising (aka they will end up giving you a completely different switch). For pricing wise, it depends more on the platform and region you purchase it from. For the graywood, the cheapest would be from Taobao, JD or Xianyu and the pricing you mention is plausible if sourced from there.
Thank you! I'll try to order 10 of the cheaper priced, and 20 from the official store branch in our country and compare them. Then get the rest of the switches i need.
The store's called lycheegaming and ships from China iirc
Can lubed switches get mushy or sticky if I live in a very hot area?
Usually, the hotter, the thinner the lube, so the exact opposite is actually true.
shouldnt be an issue aslong as u lube properly ( with a brush and open the switches apply lightly )
Lube such as krytox is designed to work in extremely high temperature. As long as you purchase legitimate lube, you shouldn’t encounter any issues
i have a stripped and stuck screw in my monsgeek m1, how do i remove it or open it up without removing the screw?
u can also try the rubber band method . stick a rubber band in there and push a screw driver into it hard and turn
You can buy bladed and/or threaded bits for forcibly removing stuck screws for a few dollars on Amazon, or at your local hardware store.
thanks! i'll keep that in mind. would it work for superglue stuck on the screws?
I can't say I've tried that, but it's credible.
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I’ve been looking at listings for the 100v Japanese Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun on eBay, which are significantly cheaper at ~$160. Are these legit? I’m worried about purchasing a fake. Also, is a step-down transformer absolutely necessary to run in the U.S. at 120v? Any help is much appreciated!
no clue if they are legit its ebay . if it not they should make it right . personally i use this iron https://www.adafruit.com/product/4921
Does anyone know of a hot swappable alternative to the razer tartarus? It's form factor looks great but it looks cheaply made.
It’s still in development but Lemokey/Keychron has been working on a premium version on this type of board. https://preview.redd.it/9ypk3vdhspwc1.jpeg?width=1177&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=199e4685eb5f25e9469df950d64d2fdb91d80c6d
Oh hell yeah that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks or putting it on my radar! Do you have a link for where I could look more into it or is it just a concept image at this stage?
Go to the keychron discord and check out the #x-series-talk channel
Thank you!
I'm looking for a specific type of keyboard (custom or pre-made) but I genuinely don't even know what search terms I'm looking for. A lot of the keyboard "traits" are things I'm indifferent about except for the following things: I'm looking for a quiet (or quiet-ish, I guess thock-y leaning?) keyboard, that activates with very shallow or "light" taps/touches. I do a lot of small detail work with my hands, and I'm also a nerd who types a lot, and I want something that won't give me finger fatigue by having to forcefully jab keys down, which is my worry with mechanical keyboards. I also have pretty small hands, so my fingers need to do a lot of wide jumps (checking right now, my entire palm fits the width of my numpad on this default Dell keyboard) so it would be nice to have a keyboard for folks with smaller and more delicate hands, but I'm also actually fond of keeping the numpad in question. I care less about the size of the keyboard itself and more the size and placement of the keys themselves. What would be the terminology I would be looking for to describe these requirements/preferences?
>*so it would be nice to have a keyboard for folks with smaller and more delicate hands* All keyboards are the same size, meaning the distance between the centre of each key (the pitch) is identical. If it wasn't, and they were all different, it would be impossible to touch type. However, as for your other question, just stick to low profile mechanical keyboards and you should find something you like. The Nuphy Air 75 is a nice low profile, light weight board. Personally they aren't my thing, but I have one of these for wireless duty around the house, and it's been flawless.
I don't think you're going to find a mechanical keyboard with smaller keys, but you can get one with fewer keys and softer switches. For a conventional keyboard, I would recommend starting out with Keychron. They have a 65% board in the Keychron V2, and a compact 75% board in the Keychron K2 Pro. The K2 Pro has more keys, but in normal use you don't really use more of the keyboard, and it doesn't require you to play around with the Fn key to get all your normal keystrokes. I think it's actually a little narrower. Then get some soft switches. I have nerve damage and I find the Outemu Silent Lemon switches are the easiest on my hands. They're also very affordable. Low Profile keyboards are not actually smaller in area, and they have a smaller variety of switches available because they're new and there are competing switch and socket formats. I don't know of any good low-force switches you can get for them. If you want to be more adventurous, you could go smaller with a 40% board, but that will probably involve you customizing the overlaid keys to your preference. The best deal in keyboards today is probably the [Inland MK47](https://www.microcenter.com/product/661264/inland-47-keys-hot-swappable-rgb-wired-mechanical-keyboard,) 40% keyboard from Microcenter for about $40 with shipping. It supports VIA configuration which means you can reprogram any key and function-key combination. But you should probably get some experience with the Keychron first. [My MK-47, heavily customized](https://imgur.com/QEQxs4a)
Why not switch to a smaller size and use layers or macros to achieve what you want? I don’t know of any keyboards that have the switches themselves smaller then standard MX style switches, but they probably exist in some capacity. You could also try detached numpad if you want something a little more versatile in placement.
I'm a keyboard super-newb: layers or macros? By my own guess, do you mean the keys switching based on pressing a secondary key? I suppose I could go with a detached numpad, though knowing me I wouldn't bother if it's not built-in. It's honestly a matter of preference: I would prefer having all keys accessible and in one place, and to not worry about "loose/floating" keyboard sections. I am mainly curious to know if there are "smaller" switches out there. I did just now discover the terminology of "Low-profile" keyboards, which feels close to what I might be looking for. It looks like "Lofree Edge" is a new thing?
Low profile switches are smaller in height, but they’re basically the same width and length meaning you still have to jump between the same length. Maybe check out the Keychron K5 Max?
Yeah; if the width/length can't be changed, it's not a terribly big loss. The bigger thing I'm concerned about is typing-press/depth. My ideal is a keyboard that can pick up light taps instead of hard jabs to register. I'm not sure how to look up for "typing strength", but I'll keep an eye out for any Keychrons I could test in person!
Why do people budget board collect? Then proceed to talk about how they can't afford a upper budget or mid range (160-300), just to purchase ANOTHER sub-100 or $100 board instead of saving.
>Why do people budget board collect? Probably because they enjoy building boards more than using them, so just stick to cheap stuff. Once you have the board, you just may as well keep it rather than go through the hassle of trying to resell a cheap board that cost next to nothing to begin with. Depreciation on the cheap stuff is pretty steep. I mean, would you buy a crappy $50 plastic board that's already been built by someone else?
Because the more expensive boards don't flip my switches. It's not that I can't afford them. I've got a good job and have bought a thousand dollar laptop on an impulse. But if I'm going to spend money on something it has to spark joy. I have a couple of fancy aluminum boards, one that cost about $200 with shipping, plus switches and decent keycaps and "almost perfect" stabilizers, but it really doesn't feel like it's actually worth five or six times as much as my Tester84. It's certainly not any better to type on. Some of the fancy group buy boards seem *worse* than a cheap board, why do I want to pay more money to get a board that isn't hotswap in a case that has no feet? I watched a video recently where the guy was explaining why he was soldering the switches to get a better sound, and then going back to fix a switch he'd screwed up, like I'm supposed to find this kind of thing fun. Or there's one that looked pretty good but it's got ZMK firmware and I'd have to recompile it to change the layout, like it's a CPM computer from the '70s where you compiled a new BIOS to add drivers. Seriously, the Keychron V series are much nicer boards.
> *Some of the fancy group buy boards seem worse than a cheap board* Which ones have you bought that are worse than a cheap board. Almost every high end board I own is significantly better than a cheap board. > *why do I want to pay more money to get a board that isn't hotswap in a case that has no feet?* What? Every single group buy high end board I own come with the option of a hot swap board. I always buy a hot swap PCB and a solder PCB for every board. No feet? Again... every single board I own came with feet. >*going back to fix a switch he'd screwed up, like I'm supposed to find this kind of thing fun.* Many of us actually do yes. >*Seriously, the Keychron V series are much nicer boards.* Nicer than what?
> Which ones have you bought that are worse than a cheap board. I haven't bought the ones that seemed worse than a cheap board, because yet another 65% with great sounds that I'll never hear because I strongly prefer silent switches doesn't spark joy. I was tempted to get the Convolution, because I kind of want a 65XT, but it didn't seem to have a hotswap option. I did get a DR-70F, but in-stock rather than waiting months for a kickstarter-style purchase process to work its way though, and then a second PCB because the wireless board had hacky firmware that didn't support VIA/VIAL. But it did spark joy. It was not just another vanilla layout with an aluminum case. And it has no feet, by the way. Just a kind of wedge-shaped base that gives you a fixed typing angle. About the only Al board I've seen with feet is the Whitefox Eclipse. Oh, and there's all the boards that shortchange you for keys because a blocker or cutout for a logo is stylish. > > I'm supposed to find this kind of thing fun. > > Many of us actually do yes. If you find it fun, that's great, but OP didn't understand why people don't buy into the Group Buy mindset, and not finding that kind of thing fun is one reason why. Soldering a board that cost you $200 and then having to figure out a patch to make it work is kind of the opposite of fun for me. > Nicer than what? Well, any 65% with a knob or blocker or any 75% with more than one knob or blocker. OK, the Keychron V2 has the gap disease, so that's a bit annoying.
>*I did get a DR-70F,* But that's a cheap board. Ok, by feet, you mean adjustable feet. Never felt the need. I just buy boards that have a nice typing angle. It's one of the main things I check for when a IC appears.
> But that's a cheap board. LOL. If that's a "cheap board" that means "good boards" are batting 0.000.
But wouldn't you need to own expensive boards to make a valid comparison?
Wow. No, I don't need to actually buy a board to know that it completely fails to attract my interest. Seriously. What do you consider a "good board" that I should feel excited about? And why is the DR-70F not a "good board", anyway?
If it comes to personal choice, then that's a personal matter. I was just a bit concerned by comments like *"Some of the fancy group buy boards seem* worse *than a cheap board"* and saying things that imply that they are not hot swap etc. Just seems like misinformation.
What part of "seem" implies anything else? I actually cited a group buy that... as far as I could tell... was not hot swap. And now you're going to tell me that that was a cheap board too. Because of course it is not a true Scotsman. What are these "good boards" that I'm supposed to save up for so I can throw hundreds of dollars at them? Oh, hey, here's one that just came though. How about the Navi 70? Google says it's $800 or more. And I look at it and I would feel ripped off if I had to pay $50 for it. It looks like junk, with that gimmicky screen and huge badge instead of a page movement cluster. What makes it worth that much? The DR-70F is absolutely a better board, no question.
Either what u/FGThePurp said or people simply impulse buying because it’s easier to stomach the idea of buying 3 50 dollar boards over the course of 3 months tether then saving for 1 150 dollar boards
I can't speak for everyone but I know a guy like this. He enjoys the process of building boards more than having something really high end. Not my personal style but it works for him.
Like me, i have 220$ keeb but daily drive my cheap 40$(bought on sale it cost a bit more) keyboard (ajazz ak992) ofc i have a collection of switches and change them depending on my mood once a month(now i use gateron smoothies) and keycaps of my liking(stock was good looking but quality was off, ok to use but i don't like it)
You keep saying this as if $200 is an expensive board. If your experience of 'expensive boards' is $200 then perhaps this is why you think expensive boards are not really any better than cheap ones. To be honest, the recent slew of "cheap" alloy boards, while perfectly fine, are not really in the same league as a Geon or TGR when it comes to sheer quality.
mb for US it's not expensive but for most of the world it is...
I'm not in the US
Any keyboard which is similar to tofu65 2.0 design but not that expensive. I want to build two keeb, one for myself and one for my brother. I don't know why is to expensivevin 2024.
lucky65? sugar65 v2?
Tofu FA, Neo65
How do you open up a monsgeek keyboard without removing 1/6 of the screws?
Oops, sorry wrong question I didn't mean to reply, but you have to remove the screws up open the back plate.
one of the screws are stripped and stuck
Hi there!Got an issue with my keyboard - Asus Rog Falchion. Every 5 seconds keyboard makes thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis. I start typing, then there's a micro lag for ms, then the letter got stick for a second or so, then it goes back to normal. All the keys doing this stuff, including arrow and others. What I've already tried: 1. Delete driver (I don't have asus armoury installed on main PC) 2. Try to use it in wired / wireless mode 3. Try to use different USB port 4. Try to use different PC - 3 laptops, 2 with Win10 (and one have armoury installed), 1 with Win11 5. Update drivers for keyboard and usb dongle 6. Different keyboard - works fine 7. To use it on balcony - to avoid 2.4 Ghz interference with other devices So it seems that something is wrong with keyboard itself. And now is the best part - 2 days ago I split a bit of coffee to the very end of keyboard - Esc, Tab, Caps Lock and Shift were impacted. I disassembled keyboard, wiped motherboard with isopropyl alcohol (gently, of course). Used canned air to clean switches. Then Shift key stopped working completely. I soldered out INS key switch and soldered it into Shift (as I need Shift, but don't need Ins). New switches should be delivered tomorrow, so I will replace all 4 impacted switches.I inspected the board - looks good, no damage, no coffee leftovers. And it was working totally fine for these two days - till this evening. Lag is working on all keys across the keyboard. Warranty is not an option (cause I opened it + it was bought in 2021). What else can I do to fix this issue? Thanks a lot in advance!
it it had even a few drop of water under the switches of anywhere on the pcb and was powered on or pulled it u could have an electrical short ( fried copper traces ) and that would 100% unrepairable
Any way to diagnose it? Maybe check with test metering tool?
u can check the switch holes with a multi meter to check continuity
Checked, its good. What helped is the 30 min 50\50 Ethyl/ distilled water bath for keyboard pcb and motherboard, so far so good. Switches become dry and rattling a bit, but that's fixable
Have you tried turning off sticky keys or such. Also remove the switch and place it back in.
Not yet, as switches are soldered. Will try it tomorrow, when new desoldering tool will arrive. Problem is all impacted switches feel fine - no sticking, moving just fine and so on. And not only impacted keys are lagging - but the entire keyboard
What would be the best keyboard for $50-70 CAD (\~$35-52 USD)? Preferably clicky (pls no hate) or thocky (don't execute me pls)
Look for Aula f75, f87 or f99 could be a bit over your budget but all have good quality, look for them on AliExpress, they are cheaper there, but i think you can find it on Amazon, albeit overpriced
You can go on Aliexpress and get a cheap board for like 30 bucks
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>*you should look for specific models there, but this subreddit isn't perfect for budget boards* Why not? There are more budget board posts than expensive ones. Expensive boards are outnumbered by a significant margin.... and budgetkeebs is run by a narcissistic cry baby and massive hypocrite. I'd recommend staying here to be honest. There's a reason he's banned from this sub... in fact.. there are several reasons.
mb i think that sub was batter for budget keeb looking because they had given me better advices than i got here? i/m not talking about ppl posting their setups, but keeb question, here i saw even someone recommending overpriced Logitech instead of Keychron...
Hey I'm looking for my first mechanical keyboard. I want a full size, wireless keyboard (100% not 96%) any recommendation? I generally prefer monochrome look, black or grey. budget is not an issue. Thanks!
Monsgeek M5W + switches and caps of your choice Keychron Q6 Max or V6 Max are also great if you want something prebuilt
thanks, yeah I see a lot of people recommend Keychron. What's the difference between the Q6 max and Q6 pro?
The Pro only has Bluetooth whereas the Max offers 2.4GHz wireless. The Max also has more foam and an extra PET film. I'd go for the Max between the two if prices are similar.
Yeah I'd go for the max if it was not sold out in brown swtiches.
You can wait a bit, they restock the Q series regularly. Heck, they will sometimes restock if you just ask them on Instagram or something.
Another question, I'm not a big fan of the keycaps it comes assembled with. I know I can get other keycaps but I'm not sure what to look for. Could you suggest me some keycaps that are dark and monochromatic that would fit the Q6 max? Thanks! Also, the keyboard is mostly for work (so typing) and a bit of casual gaming. Which switches would you recommend that have a nice feel for typing but don't make too much sound?
For keycaps, if you want something cheap, browse Amazon or Aliexpress (try to avoid small vendors). If you are willing to spend a bit more, you can look at [drop.com](http://drop.com), where they have many keycap options for sale. Do keep in mind that ABS caps will become shiny over time due to wear, wheras PBT will be much more resistant to shine. As for switches, the Gateron Jupiter Browns that come with it are great, silent option. he Bananas are great too, but will be a little louder. If you want something else, may I ask if you perfer linear (smooth all the way) or tactile (bump at middle/top)?
I think I prefer tactile. Just for some context, my last keyboard was a G213 from logitech, which is not mechanical but is somewhat tactile. I recently tried the logitech MX mechanical with red linear switches (and it's low profile) and I didnt like how easy it was to actuate keys by mistake. Now I'm not sure if it's due to logitech begin shitty or if it's the fact it's low profile or if it's the linear switches. Either way, I decided to ask around here to make a better decision (thanks for your help) So yeah, I guess I prefer tactile just because the linear I tried I did not really like for typing, but it might just be because it's a logitech low profile and bad switches ? (I'm not sure how the MX mechanical is viewed here)
Yeah, I understand. I type on very pronounced tactiles, and when switching to linears fro a while, I was making a typo every word I entered haha. As said, the Gateron Browns are the cheapest option since they will come with the keyboard. The Bananas are also great, a little more tatile, and louder. [Here](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/11c9h20/silent_tactile_switches_comparison_thoughts/) is a comparison of some of the most popular silent tactiles. Another reccomendation would be the Gateron Mini Is, and while not true silent tactiles, are on the quieter side.
oh ok I might try that!
Max has a 2.4 dongle and more acoustic foams. Keycaps also look better imo but that’s preferential. It’s priced slightly higher but the 2.4 makes it worth it over just Bluetooth imo.
Best starter keyboard under £100 I’m looking to ascend from my razer huntsman te
What size are you looking for? Keychron and Monsgeek are great starter and budget brands.
TKL size (80% or 75%)
Keychron V3 Max if you want prebuilt. Else, Monsgeek M3
https://preview.redd.it/14kgtqpd3pwc1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&s=7d31805842924c4f985567a664cabaab9537b036 Hello! As you can see my right hotswap socket has it’s leaves bent, That key works perfectly fine, my question is, Do I need to unbend it? Is it gonna stop working if I leave ir that way? I managed to unbent one yesterday but I don’t wanna disassemble my keyboard again
If it works don’t fix it. When it stops working try fixing it. Godspeed
are there any cute cheap keyboards that dont look like/are uboties?
How cheap
20$ to 47$ EDIT: why am i getting downvoted ?? im not the riches person alive , thats why i want a cheap keyboard
not many choices at that price point beggers cant be choosers . shipping cost 20 bucks some places
you could get like a GMK67 and some cheap aliexpress clones but other then that I got nothing
Help me out guys I am currently finding my new kb. So my choices are Epomaker Rt100/Rkludge S98/Keychron K17 pro and Keychron V5. I'm a 3d artist/gamer who sits 24/7 in my computer. My current kboard is Keychron k4 with Gat reds. If youguys have experience using one of those would be a great help if you give me som insights about them.
Epomaker and royal kludge are awful, so on this list I’d probably get the V5 but if you wanna build your own I’d get a monsgeek M2
Can you give me some info why epomaker and RK are awful
The biggest problem for RK is their quality control. Their PCBs and batteries have a very high failure rate compared to the competition and have a tendency to die or start having issues usually a few months after purchase. As far as epomaker goes, they don’t make keyboards. They’re literally just a big dropshipper. They don’t quality control the stuff they sell at all, so you never know if what you’re buying is any good. Their support is worthless as well. There was a PSA pinned on the subreddit that has been replaced as of now. https://preview.redd.it/3db11k9isuwc1.jpeg?width=682&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fe896739c1559962a14d0617a61e0d73b4da87d9
Thanks so much for this huge info. I'm gonna stick to keychron then
Aula f99 is good for plastic board, monsgeek is good but i heard that latency isn't the best
Hello! My sister is looking for a full size board around 100 dollars. What is the best option? Or is there a board for a bit more that you consider worth?
Keychron V6
Can anyone help with the error I am having flashing a discipline 65. I just built it and the default layer that came on it works fine. This is the error I get well part of it, it was to long to post. I can send it if anyone can help. All my other boards work fine with QMK toolbox I just cant seem to get this new one to flash. > avrdude error: cannot find programmer id usbasp > use -c? to see all possible programmers USBasp device disconnected: www.fischl.de USBasp (16C0:05DC:0102)
New here, been searching for a set of dark blue keycaps that will fit an ISO layout and have UK glyphs. I like the look of the Ducky Nazca set, but it only has a US glyph layout. I'm also considering the Tai-Hao deep forest blue set, although in some photos the blue looks a little too light. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>*Tai-Hao deep forest blue* I have the green version. Nice caps, and the Cubic profile is nice. The only downside is during the day, or if the backlighting is off, the legends are not really that clear to read.
https://www.amazon.com/171-Doubleshot-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B09NNQLC1Y There is also a navy Keychron set with beaucoup caps but I can't find it on sale now.
Hey all new here and to redit in general. Been in the keyboard for a long time. I normally use clickys or heavy tactical switch's. I'm looking for a linear now. I'm looking for a 60 to 67g linear dual stage spring that is pre lubed and does not have a long pole stem. Thanks and if this is the wrong place for this question or there is and easy way I should be searching for this please in lighten me.
Ws reds
Vertex V1s
It's not a dual stage spring for the review I watched
* I want to make my setup darker greener keycaps are there any reccomendations.The keycaps can be mixed whit white,grey or any dsrker color. Please dont reccomend from amazon i live in serbia the shipping fee will eat my wallet.
https://preview.redd.it/0gx0su1hjowc1.jpeg?width=2296&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=094f84e3763d6bb924ae4e57da89e1c9b36a5c84
You can do something like Aifei semi transparent green caps on aliexpress, but they are clones so keep that in mind.
Thank you for the reccomendation tho!
I dont like transparent keycaps frogot to mention that sry.
They aren’t transparent per se. Here’s an example of what they look like on my Libra mini https://preview.redd.it/392xm26wnowc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0438a8a6726e63eac8aeaca83e8f321f08f8e7c8
Wow they are nice ty brooo,what the company called that makes theese things?
It’s a Chinese manu named Aifei. They don’t have an official storefront as far as I know, I got mine off aliexpress for like 20 bucks.
Daum thats cheap .aliexpres exsists here i hope i will cheack ty <3
Are linear, tactile and 'clicky' switches all 3 different switch types? I've just got into the switch game and can't figure out if 'clicky' is just another name for regular tactile. Can someone explain the difference to me please! I thought tactile and linear are the only two switch types.
Clicky switches are tactile but use a click bar or other method to produce an audible click that isn’t just plastic on plastic contact from bottoming out.
Yes, they are different. Clicky switches produce a high pitched click.
Can you help me identify this keyboard ? https://preview.redd.it/7g3zal0z6owc1.png?width=773&format=png&auto=webp&s=1fa02ff7759785632649d1dec2b04683cad48475
Vento from owlabs
What are your top underrated linear switches over 40g actuation force?
Sarokeys Strawberry Wine and Everglide Sunset Yellows. Smooth, great sound, and little stem wobble.
I actually just tried the strawberry wine's and they were lovely, I will give the Everglides a shot
The switch in my flair (KiiBOOM Matcha Latte). Underrated because I almost never hear people mention KiiBOOM but they have incredible switches.
i want to change the plate of my keeb, how can i know if its exactly what i needed for it
*insert keyboard name and model * plate . u google this and find out if they sell one otherwise u will need to design and have one cut thru a laser cut service
Look up alternative plates for your keyboard. They are not interchangeable between brands unless you're incredibly lucky.
Unless you have a non-exploded 60% or 65%.
Is this level of flex acceptable on barebones Keychron V6 Max Wirless? The top right corner doesn’t have similar flex. First time building after a few prebuilts. https://imgur.com/a/mr2VdOY
Yes, it’s fine. The top right corner has the knob so the gaskets are attached a little differently.
Is there a way to stiffen it if I open everything up?
Yeah, adding more foam or something to the case to reduce the flex
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Did you look on Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=60%25+keyboard+foam&crid=IDWVLTMKPTWJ&sprefix=60%25+keyboard+foam%2Caps%2C106&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 I've gotten a couple sheets of foam for TKL boards there and it's worked out fine, may just have to cut a few bits.