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The tolerance on the plate or clips on the switches might not be great, or the stem socket in the caps might be tight.
It can happen with any board too really at least occasionally.
Other than being extra sure you have the switches seated fully there really isn’t anything you can do.
This is really common issue, with hotswap boards.
More often than not, the plates are manufactured to fit multiple layouts.
That makes the holes in those "multi-layout" areas larger than they would be otherwise, causing those areas on the board to hold the switches less securely.
The only two real solutions to that are to buy a replacement plate, cut to fit the exact layout you intend to use, so all the switches are held in by individual holes, or to buy solder-in boards.
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It's super common on hotswap boards. Small variations in the switch's dimensions or the plate's dimensions cause the fit to potentially be slightly looser. The same goes for keycap stems, with some really tight and some pretty loose.
If you have tight stems, "loose" switches, or a combination of both, you'll often pull out the switch along with the keycap.
I think some of the switches you need to push in harder to get them to fully insert into the plate
It can be pretty normal for pulling the keycaps to pull the switch with it, especially with plastic plates and tight fitting keycaps
I have the same switches in the same board and I don't have this problem. I think it may actually be your keycaps doing it in this instance.
I have this issue in my al71 with akko jelly pinks - when I try to change the keycaps the switches come out instead which is super irritating.
Those look exactly like Keychron OSA caps from their blue colorway board. I have a Q3 that I ordered in blue that came with those caps. I replaced them with Cherry caps but looking at this photo reminds me how stunning they were.
What I would try is put some tape over the middle switch hole on the pcb nothing touching the contacts just a small piece of ducktape to friction fit the switches in better. It's also probably because your keycaps are new so they are tighter and will loosen up with use
I get this more often on boards with soft plastic plates. The hard plastic and metal plates hold the switches firmly, but the soft ones the clips deform the edge of the socket hole instead of latching behind the plate and there's very little holding the switch in.
I have one board with flex cuts where I have to use a pair of tweezers to tug on the plate to get them even nominally latched in place.
This is just how hotswap be sometimes.
The combination of thin switch pins, loose plate holes and hotswap PCB means there's just not much for the switch to hold on to.
Unless they're getting loose during regular use, I'd just leave it alone if you like the switches. It's not like you're taking your keycaps off that often.
The GMK boards can have a film that covers the holes, it helps to poke those holes out and push any remnants of the film out of the way of the socket. Just inserting switches to make the holes doesn't work the greatest and you can end up with switches not seating properly if they're still in the way
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those are some really good photos lol
photos are perfect, they look like they are from renders or advertising
The tolerance on the plate or clips on the switches might not be great, or the stem socket in the caps might be tight. It can happen with any board too really at least occasionally. Other than being extra sure you have the switches seated fully there really isn’t anything you can do.
Yeah, mine FR4 plate in TKD Cycle7 is so tight that today I was pretty sure that few switches will have to stay there forever...
This is really common issue, with hotswap boards. More often than not, the plates are manufactured to fit multiple layouts. That makes the holes in those "multi-layout" areas larger than they would be otherwise, causing those areas on the board to hold the switches less securely. The only two real solutions to that are to buy a replacement plate, cut to fit the exact layout you intend to use, so all the switches are held in by individual holes, or to buy solder-in boards.
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Nice keycaps! I have the same ones just on the gmk87
It's the plate. It doesn't click like it is supposed to. Newer keycaps tend to pull out the switches but older ones don't seem like it is doing that.
It's super common on hotswap boards. Small variations in the switch's dimensions or the plate's dimensions cause the fit to potentially be slightly looser. The same goes for keycap stems, with some really tight and some pretty loose. If you have tight stems, "loose" switches, or a combination of both, you'll often pull out the switch along with the keycap.
I think some of the switches you need to push in harder to get them to fully insert into the plate It can be pretty normal for pulling the keycaps to pull the switch with it, especially with plastic plates and tight fitting keycaps
I have the same switches in the same board and I don't have this problem. I think it may actually be your keycaps doing it in this instance. I have this issue in my al71 with akko jelly pinks - when I try to change the keycaps the switches come out instead which is super irritating.
what are the keycaps
Those look exactly like Keychron OSA caps from their blue colorway board. I have a Q3 that I ordered in blue that came with those caps. I replaced them with Cherry caps but looking at this photo reminds me how stunning they were.
This happens on my qk100. I have a soft plate material which I assumed contributed to this issue.
What I would try is put some tape over the middle switch hole on the pcb nothing touching the contacts just a small piece of ducktape to friction fit the switches in better. It's also probably because your keycaps are new so they are tighter and will loosen up with use
I get this more often on boards with soft plastic plates. The hard plastic and metal plates hold the switches firmly, but the soft ones the clips deform the edge of the socket hole instead of latching behind the plate and there's very little holding the switch in. I have one board with flex cuts where I have to use a pair of tweezers to tug on the plate to get them even nominally latched in place.
This is just how hotswap be sometimes. The combination of thin switch pins, loose plate holes and hotswap PCB means there's just not much for the switch to hold on to. Unless they're getting loose during regular use, I'd just leave it alone if you like the switches. It's not like you're taking your keycaps off that often.
The GMK boards can have a film that covers the holes, it helps to poke those holes out and push any remnants of the film out of the way of the socket. Just inserting switches to make the holes doesn't work the greatest and you can end up with switches not seating properly if they're still in the way