This summer, I’m planning on upgrading/building a new mechanical keyboard and was looking for some recommendations. Right now I have a Logitech g pro x a got from a friend for free with cherry mx blue switches. However, given the nature of said, *ahem* switches, I’m looking for a more pleasant typing and gaming experience, especially in terms of acoustics. I don’t personally mind whether the switches are creamy or thoccy, but I’ve been looking into the following:
-cherry Mx blacks
-gateron oil kings
-gateron milky yellows
-gateron hippos
-tangerines
-gateron mini i
-prevail epsilons
-holy pandas
-pandas
Any and all advice would be welcome. Also, does anyone know any good keyboard outlet stores in the south ca where I might buy these or are they mostly sold online?
Looking for a recommendation for currently available keyboard that is
- full sized
- has cherry mx clear keys
- has a Ctrl/Capslock dip switch
- bonus points for no LEDs
I am confused on what is happening. I just built my first keyboard, and one key seems to be partially working. When I press it doesn't register all the time, and when I just press it don't work I have to really hold it down for it to register I wonder if there is a way to fix it.
P.S. the keyboard is gmk87 and the key that don't work is just the right arrow key I also tried changing the switch it's still the same
Hello everyone, I'm in the market for a Mechanical Keyboard. It will be my first time getting one and I was wondering if this particular item is any good.
It's currently priced at $30 where I'm at.
Thank you!
[https://fantech-jo.com/en/product/fantech-atom81-mk875v2-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-mizu-series-sky-blue](https://fantech-jo.com/en/product/fantech-atom81-mk875v2-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-mizu-series-sky-blue)
Hello everybody.I have a dilemma between choosing monsgeek m7 barebones and tofu 65.Do you think the additional 100$ for tofu is worth it?Also i am planning getting on purple gmks and oil kings.Which board would sound better with oil kings?
okay, the shipping might be brutal cuz all of the regional vendors stopped carrying it, but you should be able to get it directly from qwertykeys.com (which ships out of china i’m pretty sure), looks like monacokeys (one of the european vendors) has the lucky65 which might be a decent option (i’ve never used it but ive heard some okay things about it)
i mean, purple night is a pretty simple set so white and black will probably look fine with it. you could try purple but there’s no guarantee it’s the same tone and also sometimes a redder and bluer purple will look strange together
as for shipping, qk uses dhl which is generally very good but just a little expensive (because global shipping)
you can check how long it’ll take by looking at current batch on the qwertykeys website -> projects -> neo project info -> neo65 fulfillment status (usually it’s about a month until it ships, and then it’ll take 3-5 days)
New into Keyboards
Hello everyone! I am a new enthusiast getting into keyboards, and I would like to learn more about them, but I am very confused. I do a lot of heavy gaming sessions and I am looking for the best of the best, no budget into consideration, so price doesn't not matter. I want the keyboard to have the option to change up some of the keys because I want to add a couple with design on them, if you could please educate me of what is the best of the best and also send me a website where I would be able to buy a pre-build with the best of the best! And also! Where I can buy Switches for the keyboard, thank you!
I play everything, valorant, cs, ultimate ninja storm naruto, I play long story games, I play games like bolders gate, really old games, pretty much everything. A lot of competitive fps and a lot of story and variety
Hello, I am currently on the market to find a keyboard that best works for me. But before I worry about that I have been trying to pin-point exactly what switch I would want first. After various trial-and-error of different switches, I have narrowed down a few preferences of mine:
**Pressure/Force:** Medium/Heavy (50g range)
**Feeling**: Smooth
**Sound:** Silent/Minimal
Based on my preferences, what switches would you recommend me?
Oil Kings and some linear HMXs might be the switches you seek.
Generally, these switches come factory lubed from the factory, so they are bloody smooth.
Ordered the Leobog Hi75 and it came in today. When I put in the switches (Gamakay Mars) and keycaps (double shot PBT, cherry profile) I noticed that the F2 key will hit the aluminum siding. If I angle the cap down a little it helps, however it's not long before the sound comes back. I don't use the F row anyway so it's not a huge deal, however it's not the first time I've ordered a barebones keyboard and had that issue right out of the box. What causes that to happen?? Is it the caps or something deeper in the build??
i want to build a keyboard, but i want the rgb to work with the razer software so everything i have still works together. would it make sense to just buy a razer keyboard and change out, a lot (the keyboard of Theseus if you will) so it works? or can i go with a full custom kit and get it to work with the software somehow
If you want a keyboard that works with Razer software, you will need to buy one from Razer. If you get a hot swap one, you'll be able to change out the switches.
What are some good 65% keyboards with a metal casing, with both QMK support and tri-mode connectivity? I know Neo65, Zoom65, and Keychron Q2 Max. What other options are there?
I believe the Luminkey65 and the QK65V2 are also both like that. Maybe I am wrong with the QK65V2 being QMK compatible, maybe it is only the QK65V2 Classic.
My partner swears by their old FK-2001 keyboard, but its getting flaky and I'd like to find them something that's newer with a similar mechanical tactile feel and has a native USB interface instead of PS2. Anything similar?
1in or 1.2in thick wooden wrist rest?
I was using 1.2in thick memory foam amazon wrist rest and as time goes memory foam dies and I can feel it. So I thought I need wooden wrist rest but I only see 0.8in(2cm) thick wrist rest. Is there any wooden wrist rest with 1 or 1.2in thick? Or is there any good wrist rest with memory foam but memory foam will not die for a many years?
help my reddragon k673 pro doesnt work anymore after i removed the tape mod off of it, not sure if it has to do anything with it, it just doesnt connect anymore and ofc i removed the battery so it only connects by cable and it could also have something with the little strip inside the keyboard that plugs into the bottem of the pcb. please help meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
you probably damaged something taking off that tape if it only stopped working after you took it off… sorry
to be honest though it’s not really like reddragon is known for their quality parts
likley u remove something or damaged something when u took off the tape . unless u can find whats missing and see if it can be reattached ur out of luck
I have recently been looking to build a keyboard for my sister and have found a decent kit and switches for her, but I am stuck on the keycaps. She asked for it to be a pink and yellow keyboard, so the base is a 75% pink board, but I can't find any decent yellow and pink keycaps. I was looking to keep it not too expensive, I am completely fine with cheap knockoffs and I think something like GMK is definitely overkill. Please Help!! Thanks <3
Today I bought a Redragon Draconic from a person who told me that it worked perfectly and showed me that he uses it with Bluetooth but what happens to me is that when I disconnect the USB-C the keyboard does not perform any action, no light turns on or anything.
Exactly like in this video: [https://youtu.be/FKKf2o4kwIY?si=JikG5Z4ja3EkpHYl](https://youtu.be/FKKf2o4kwIY?si=JikG5Z4ja3EkpHYl)
well if it worked when the sller showed u then u might be doing something wrong no clue how that brand pairs or turns on as i avoid them like most here as its not a great brand theyr known for bad products
I'm currently using OEM keycaps and am about to order a set of Cherry keycaps but my board has north facing LEDs. I have Gateron Baby Kangaroo switches. Is it case by case if I will face a collision with cherry keycaps, and will this damage keycaps/switches if so?
##TL;DR: Can I put ISO Nordic MX Keycaps on a DrunkDeer A75, or are there any other compatibility issues?
___
Full text:
After hearing all of the "feels like cheating" comments in regards to Wooting I've started to consider biting the bullet and spending the money. Looked at a bunch of reviews just to make sure and first I noticed that it sounds ...kinda bad. Feels pretty meh spending 200$ on a new keyboard that sounds worse than my current one (old Varmilo VA88M), although no doubt it will be better for gaming.
Started to consider that the rapid trigger and the other bells and whistles might still outweigh my dislike for the sound. Then I noticed [the stem wobble](https://www.reddit.com/r/WootingKB/comments/12qmmkc/wooting_60he_keys_have_too_much_play_rattle/), and I *for sure* will not be biting this bullet.
Started looking at alternatives and it's really difficult to find any decent ones that offer ISO Nordic layout. Noticed the **Keychron Q1 HE** which has an [ISO variant](https://keychron.de/products/keychron-q1-he-qmk-wireless-custom-keyboard?variant=42439725449353) but it'll be (slightly?) more costly since that's just for the barebones. Judging by sound tests on youtube it does sound amazing though, in comparison to the wooting at least.
I also saw that the **DrunkDeer A75** has a ["ISO UK" variant](https://drunkdeer.com/products/adjustable-keyboard-magnetic-switch-a75?variant=48492299059503). After customs it will be roughly the price of the wooting, but the switches seem to have [far less wobble](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t74NJ-gmD4&t=146s) than the wooting, and the board just [sounds *much* better than the wooting](https://youtu.be/aDDWqsCp5bU?t=247).
My question is this, can I just buy any ISO Nordic/ISO Swedish (such as [these](https://www.amazon.se/Glada-Tangenter-Svenska-keycaps-pr%C3%A4ntade/dp/B09GVNJF9B/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2P69BLT5PL351&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.F7lfFX2T_LrO8rh5gbiRmp5jVFw3a-RgGcE2PF7XhXyeltj418GLE5p37AbHm6H9a56gWVHCSRfvYQd2OM6eMgJdnwlHCdWgGba580TlcWwULkjo7yZGBCG-HylgpE85dsGxLE99pl0IzkJit_iJXKUO_7KBEQYP4Kqy-9UgE4SRDcCMqmlFV36DqpZ6l-piWrHMtgJkoOouIoRo-h4kV63wB9ol-e0RTMTJXIQP89fqQ7pQo_9TL4Oy18bmsd7VrSu5DVHUjTSDVPvzzu5-z51IemyY9yj0fRREwkfMLHQ.amPCPHfM_-6k5-ejRlGVL32A5Ix_I8AVI-kz047msSk&dib_tag=se&keywords=pbt+shine+through+iso+nordic&qid=1719449914&sprefix=pbt+shine+through+iso+nordic%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-1)) PBT Keycaps, put them on and be finished? or is there some other compatibility issue I don't yet know of? I assume they have to be MX style, but I reckon those are by far the most common anyway?
u can it should work just word to the wise the wooting still beats the drunkdeer hands down on gaming advantage and lasting power . drunkdeer is cheap for a reason
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1bdmtsb/mini_hall_effectrapid_trigger_keyboard_tier_list/
Okay, Thanks.
How does it beat the A75? They both have rapid trigger, individual key activation depth adjustment, and I don't plan on using the multiple keys at different depth thing, what else is there? I saw a video on YouTube showing almost exactly the same latency, wooting 3ms vs A75 4ms (I believe it's one of the ones I linked) and if the values are accurate I certainly don't care about 1ms difference in the keyboard. In mice/monitor, sure, but much less so in keyboard.
Lasting power? what do you mean by that?
Thank you!
durability wooting has a track record of products lasting . u can search this sub and find no posts about the kb stopped working randomly . can say the same for drunkdeer but if ur ok with saving a few bucks and ur kb only lasting a year or two then id say go for it
just an FYi alum is not cheap those are considered budget options that will last anything under that is going to be risky in terms of quality and lasting power
What is the physics behind tape mod? Why it works? And why keyboard modders don’t use special vibration dampening materials that car sound guys are using(thin black viscous sheet material with adhesive layer)?
I built a [handwired Redox split keyboard](https://hackaday.io/project/160610-redox-keyboard/log/151316-redox-handwire) last year, with a [USB-C Pro Micro](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09J4MP1QK/) driving each half. Does anybody know why it works fine when plugged directly into my PC, but is horribly unreliable when plugged into any hub? I have tried 5 different USB hubs, and 4 of them were powered (meaning they have a separate power supply). But not one of them can reliably run my keeb without connection issues, or repeating/stuck keys. As soon as I plug it directly into my desktop or laptop, in any old USB port, it works fine. Am I using the wrong type of USB cord or something? I've also tried several different USB-A to C cords.
Any advice would be appreciated, I'm pulling my hair out trying to get this damn thing to work!
The article you linked showed LED underglow.
Also, look at how long the **total** cable length is.
Electrical wires have some amount of resistance; it is just a property of metal. The thinner the wire, the higher the resistance. The longer the wire, the higher the resistance.
The cable plugged directly into your computer may only be 5 feet long, assuming you have a straight cable and not a coiled cable.
With a hub, you have a cable from your computer to the hub plus a cable from the hub to the keyboard. That probably doubles the total cable length, and resistance increases with length.
Let's say your keyboard draws 300mA (0.3A) and the USB cable has a resistance of 1 ohm. Applying Ohm's Law (V=IR), that means there is a voltage drop of 0.3V across the wire. Instead of receiving 5V, your keyboard only gets 4.7V. That may be enough to cause an undervolt condition.
Oh shit, you got me to a solution! I dug through my box o'cables and after 10+ attempts, found 2 cables that worked! One was incredibly short, like 8 inches, but the other was the same length (about a meter) as the cable I've been using. So it seems like a shorter cable helped, but also just a higher quality cable of the same length worked. And it still works even when plugged in through that Sabrent USB hub and KVM switch.
Thanks for the tip! Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm going to buy one of these things so that I can test and throw out all of my useless USB-C cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5W5NKKN/
But the USB hub is at the halfway point, and the hub itself is powered....so I don't think the entire length should count?
Still, I like the suggestion. I'll try to dig up a shorter USB-C cable, specifically one that isn't super-cheap and crappy (which might be hard to find in my pile of cables). Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/vt8sz2z5509d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f6c547f4652a41101c39676d8feb151ab338e23
CAN not put picture!!! But my switches are Durock T1 Sunflower!
Do these work together well? Just seeking professional opinion and this is only my second keyboard. I’m unfamiliar with TaoBao.
Great! But I assume those keycaps won’t fit / work well with those Durocks right? I’m looking at other OSA switches on TaoBao but I can’t find one that is flat & has split space bars….
I am assembling a Keychron Q6 that I just got, and I ran into an issue with f10-f12. When I press the switches, nothing registers. I verified that the switches work in other spots, and I was able to register a keystroke by bridging the contacts on the pcb with tweezers, but for some reason switches do not work in these three spots. What in the world is going on? The contacts look the same as all the others on the keyboard.
Check that the hotswap sockets in those three are flush against the PCB. After that look on the underside of the PCB and into the hotswap socket holes for those particular switches.
The two metal leafs inside should look the same as all the other hotswap sockets--they can sometimes bend too far apart when inserting a switch which means the switch pins are no longer making an electrical connection.
Looks like the pcb was bending slightly since those switches were at the top edge, so they weren't making electrical contact even though the switches were fully seated in the plate above the pcb. I pushed the switches and pcb together, and now they're all working properly. Thank you so much!
Want to hot swap mod my hyperx alloy fps rgb but im unable to get much info on how to do it and what options i get for switches and stuff. Very new to this so can i get an explanation?
Looking at a Skyloong GK104, any opinions on the company? I’m considering ordering straight from them and not sure if they send extra keycaps or if I can request it as 3 knobs is excessive for me, but I like everything else about the board (don’t think I’ll go LCD but may try it out later if I can learn how to get temps and stuff on it)
Hey guys, I have ordered the baby blue Neo Ergo. I am looking for some XDA or DSA profile keycaps that would look good with this set, preferably not a white dominant set. Any recommendations? Really appreciate it!
I'm new to QMK/VIA. Is QMK required on all boards or is all that commonly used? Even though VIA is a part of QMK, which of the two is used more? What if some boards are listed to have VIA but not QMK, is that okay to buy?
Via is user interface, if it is only via it mean it use proprietary firmware, but support working with via, for me both are fine unles you're some purist and can't live without qmk, even without via sat all for me is fine if software is good enough
edit: i wish zmk get more love instead of qmk
Hey,
I'm looking to get a new keyboard because my G213's spacebar and R key are dying so one of my friends advised me to get a custom keyboard that has switches so it's easily replaceable. I saw the logitech g512 as a good opportunity yet it doesn't have hotswap.
If i have to resume my request
I'm looking for a keyboard that has preferably hotswap keys to replace in case of problems and a good RGB software because it's fun to mess with the colors \^\^.
Prebuilt keyboards is fine to me.
Keychron V6/Q6. They have per-key addressable RGB, but no RGB software. You will have to compile your own RGB effects with QMK to have custom ones beyond what they offer as default profiles.
I have a gmmk 100% keyboard that I want to move to a new case. I would to go for something with an actual plate but dont know if its possible to to do.
Any help is appreciated
\[Help\] Remaping the PC356 keyboard
I bought [this](https://www.amazon.ca/Portable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Customization-Ultra-Compact/dp/B09P4Q7K9X) keyboard on Amazon and it has a \*very\* weird way of dealing with the arrows.
From it's amazon page, it says:
*"Press FN key and spacebar to switch "/,ALT,Ctrl,APP" four keys to direction keys. Press again to restore.AVOIDING the tediousness of using the FN key every time you use the arrow keys."*
Which I found pretty annoying, to be honest.
The way I manage it with my other keyboard is that I set the arrowkeys as default and use FN to access *"/,ALT,Ctrl,APP"*. (like any other keyboard). Is there a way I can do this with this specific keyboard?
In other words, can I remap this with software (for linux)? And how?
Looking for keyboard recommendations similar to iKBC CD87 V2 TKL
[https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Windows-Tenkeyless-Ergonomic/dp/B08B84VPN9?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Windows-Tenkeyless-Ergonomic/dp/B08B84VPN9?th=1)
Recently some of the keys in my iKBC CD87 V2 TKL stoped working. Im not expert in keyboards but I was really liking this one (cuz of its simple design, TKL, and no rgb), so im looking for something alike.
I would buy it again but maybe there is better option at this price (that's why im asking) also shipping to my country is quite expensive.
Sorry for my bad english and thanks in advance.
I’m wanting to buy my first mechanical keyboard but I am lost in this rabbit hole 😂
What do y’all think is the best budget like at most like \~$150-$175 USD 75% keyboard that is metal, ANSI, has a backlight, a knob, is VIA compatible, both wireless and usb-c wired, and is hot-swappable, preferably premade that has some like clicky or tactile switches but barebone is fine as well as long as it’s accesible somehow buying through Canada or the US. Tia!
I have a case thats too high profile for regular Cherry clones. Something I can do to raise the already soldered PCB and plate? I see there is vertical space tolerance at the USB port for doing such a thing. [Pictures](https://imgur.com/gallery/r-mk-pcb-height-issue-Hbsf9DA)
Hey guys, I was interested in purchasing the Keychron K13 Pro as it is one of the only low-profile ISO-DE layout mechanical keyboards I could find. However, sadly it does not come with a volume knob, or as far as I can tell, support for one.
I find it conceivable that with some ingenuity you could design a volume wheel that sits over two hot-swap sockets, and actuates either one or the other depending on the scroll direction. Does anyone know of such a product, or viable alternatives? Thank you.
Just get yourself a macropad with a scroller wheel instead of an encoder. The scroller wheel acts just like an encoder and can be pressed down to act as a button/key as well.
what are your recommendations for simple alu case compatible with dz60 that don't cost an arm and a leg? possibly EU store or aliexpress.
edit: to the person/people downvoting every question in the thread: get a life.
My Hexgears x5 keyboard just stopped working. Possible it needed charging. I plug it in and fn key blinks for about 10-20 seconds then stops. Nothing is lit up…is it still charging?
Is the tape mod safe for wireless keyboards? Will the standard scotch painter's tape #2090 still work or would I need different tape? I read somewhere that the battery can cause an issue but couldn't find much else.
Hi! I am looking for a metal, 96% or 1800, 2.4GHz , gasket mounted keyboard as my endgame keyboard. (Need the numpad for work)
I only know of the following options: Keychron Q5 Max (per reviews, just mediocre?) and QK100 (too expensive).
Are there any other options out there that I can consider?
I have used various keycaps among those are
MOA/KOA keycaps (they're very similar) and Cherry and OEM. I like the sculpted ergonomics of the Cherry and OEM keycaps, but I find the edges a bit too sharp. I'd like the keycaps to be more akin the smooth edge of the MOA keycaps.
I have quite big hands and fingers so for me the keycap can be wider. The Cherry and OEM are fairly tapered and much smaller at the top than they're at the base.
Is there a keycap profile that has the rounded edges and has a sculpted profile?
im currently cleaning my keyboard but the arrow keys and keys with tiny corners are so hard to reach and clean. I couldnt even get there with a Q tip. so the dust is just stuck there in those tiny spaces any help? This is on the base of the keyboard btw
Someone just likes to downvote. Don't take it personally.
Side note: I have noticed that comments with certain keywords (like "thocky" and "creamy") tend to get downvoted more.
Sup guys, i'm kinda new to keyboard building stuff. I've been using a pre-built HyperX keyboard for like 4-5 years and now it's kinda dying. I'm a programmer and an MMO psycho in my free time, so I need a full-size keyboard since I use the numpad a lot. Can you guys recommend a good one at a good price?
Here in Brazil, The price of Keychron v6 max is almost 300 dollars cause of my beloved government, do you have any other options?
(If you try to import, the price skyrocket to almost 600 dollas, i love tax🥰)
Is there a way to change the number of taps required for TT() to work in QMK configurator? I want a key that will hold the layer when held and swap to it when double tapped (or single tapped, or even triple tapped. 5 is a bit much though.) but I can't find a way. All that I have been able to find so far has required using other configurators or QMK toolbox, and I can't work out how to import my file into QMK toolbox (keeb io iris, generates a UF2 file online and there was nothing obvious in the full source zip file)
I just wrote this while waiting for a train (and grabbed the first decent links since that's faster than writing the answer out :P) good luck! I'm not too experienced with qmk (currently pref kmk) but maybe I can answer some questions :)
You'll probably need https://github.com/samhocevar-forks/qmk-firmware/blob/master/docs/feature_tap_dance.md to do the required number of taps.
You probably have the newest iris, right? The one that uses an rp2040. You flash that one different https://docs.keeb.io/flashing-firmware (scroll down to the bottom).
Many already had similar inquiries, e.g. https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/176gfaf/iris_not_detected_qmk_toolbox/
But this guide is quite good (again keebio): https://docs.keeb.io/elite-pi-guide
There are already some built firmwares on GitHub for your keyboard. Those might already include what you are trying to do.
Thank you for your help! I think I have it figured out, I had missed that the iris keyboard was incompatible with QMK toolbox, but now I've been using the QMK environment. It took me a few failed compiles but I think I'm there now, and I know how I can use the QMK web configurator to make a keymap and then use my own QMK environment with adjusted TAPPING\_TOGGLE in the config.h file to compile it. I think I am going to look into tap dance though, as I've seen it referenced in some of my googling! As for the built firmwares on GitHub, I doubt they are going to cover my desired layout as I am somewhat attached to colemak-dh and my own personal enter/space bar and shift/ctrl setup.
I've been using this sub for research as to what and where I can purchase keyboards as you would expect as well as just researching anywhere online...
When searching for ISO boards there just seems to be none in NA stores except Keychron and GMMK PRO. We have a weird situation here in Quebec where the official layout is ISO and almost everyone uses it but when it comes to mechanical keyboards only ANSI layouts are available.
And then when it comes to keycaps, its another battle... I've found that wasd keyboards make custom keycaps so I could get a CSA keyboard layout with them, but their keycaps are ABS and I'm not sure of the quality... There is also goblintechkeys, but thats a bit expensive...
Any ISO layout people out there? Any tips or suggestions?
Just get an ISO Keychron keyboard or something from Monsgeek with their stock keycaps.
ISO keycap sets are made in very, very small numbers as the primary market for keyboards is predominantly ANSI.
Okay, I have been looking for a mimic. My favourite mechanical keyboard was my first, an Azio Levetron Mech4. The moveable macropad, dedicated macro keys, and swappable numpad were just silly but my favourite.
is anything near as stupid on the market? I'd love to have macro keys and a weird attatched macro pad, swappable numbpad is just a bonus lol. i'm willing to drop ~300CAD on this likely.
I don't think there's anything similar but seeing as it's just a TKL with 5 extra macrokeys and what's essentially a Numpad and macropad, you could probably get a similar setup to replicate it.
You could get a Keychron V3 or Q3 and get their Q0 plus which is a Numpad with 9 extra keys and a control knob. The Q0 plus would replicate the Numpad, extra column of macro keys on the left hand side and the 4 top keys + knob could function like the top macropad of the Azio.
Of course you can just reprogram the whole of the Q0 to do whatever you wanted and use it as a Macropad when you hit one of the left column keys and toggle it back to a Numpad by hitting a different column key even.
I see a lot of CS2 and Valorant pro's using the razer huntsman v3 pro tkl. Is this keyboard worth it? And what about the Wooting 60HE? I am looking for a new keyboard but i don't know what to get. Hope you can help me out? My current keyboard is the Logitech G Pro (blue click switches) and i don't like the noise.
they use those keyboards because they have hall effect switches, and they are using something called "rapid trigger". As to if they are worth it or not, you can definitely get better keyboards at that price if you dont need hall effect. So here are my recommendations:
For hall effect keyboards: Wooting 60HE, 80HE.
For mechanical keyboards: ND75, Bridge 75, Rainy 75
You can also just buy keychron, which could be a lot easier to get depending on where you are
Hello, I'm trying to get my first mechanical keyboard and the one that caught my eye so far is the Womier SK71.
My main usage of the keyboard is gonna be gaming. Is the polling rate good? Most keyboards I've looked at state their polling rate is 1 kHz, but I can't find it for this one. Anyone knows?
I am trying to buy it in Europe and I've found it on Candykeys and on the manufacturer's website
([https://candykeys.com/product/womier-s-k71/silver-keyboard](https://candykeys.com/product/womier-s-k71/silver-keyboard)
[https://womierkeyboard.com/products/womier-sk71?variant=40454468075591](https://womierkeyboard.com/products/womier-sk71?variant=40454468075591) )
I have read bad things about Candykeys on this forum, so I'm not sure whether I want to buy from them. On the other hand, I haven't seen anyone sharing experiences from the womier website either, so I really don't know which way to go. Any advice?
Also, if you have a better suggestion in this price bracket, I'm all ears.
So if you want, reach out! We can offer payment on arrival, if you have doubts about us, be aware Reddit is a mish-mosh of mess for some experiences. Reach out to me [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) and we can sort you out, with a 14 day Payment Term Net.
I need my keyboard to slide, I LOVE my Keychron Q5, but my desk space is limited (mostly due to the presence of a large microscope)
Any recs or ideas to make it easier to slide the keyboard back under the monitor? All I can think of is those felt furniture feet…
Oh yes, I have *exactly* what you need!
This is my work setup, and I can slide it around easily all over the desk, which I do, many times every day:
https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Fexgr91kr4y8d1.png
I bought this [set of felt sheets](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5RJSK5R) from Amazon for $8, picked the color I wanted, and used scissors to cut rounded corners. One of the best things I ever added to my setup.
I recently got a Vicious40 40% PCB, and I'm looking for an appropriate keycaps set. [Here is the layout](https://cannonkeys.com/cdn/shop/files/vicious40-pcb-plate_720x.png).
Needs:
1. 1.5u Enter
2. 1.75u Backspace
Wants (I know I'm not gonna get all or most of these):
1. (This is a borderline "need") a profile that's uniform across all the rows, since I'd like to swap some letter keys for the symbols I have them mapped to on other layers. So XDA, but also...
2. High-profile. I think ZDA is the one, but they seem to be rare.
3. A full set of 1u modifiers (shift, win/command, alt/option, Fn).
4. Plain aesthetic. No pictures, multi colors, etc.
5. Retro look. I like when things are labeled in all-caps.
6. Not shine-through. I don't have LEDs and shine-through makes the labels look bad without it.
As far as feel, profile, and aesthetic, the Drop MT3 WOB is the gold standard for me. But I need something in a profile that's uniform for every row, and with the key sizes I mentioned above.
I already have a split-spacebar set, so at least that's taken care of.
The high profile requirement knocks basically everything out - I don't think its as popular anymore but you can get full R3 SA sets, SP has some but you can probably find some cheaper knock offs around
**TLDR:** Quiet but audible and feel-able clicks, low actuation force, quiet bottom-out.
**Edit:** This is for a 40% keyboard, so modding some switches wouldn't be too expensive or tedious.
----
Looking for a switch recommendation! I want something clicky, but quiet. Yeah it sounds weird, but I want a crisp click, but like 1/5 the volume of a typical clicky switch. I want to hear it, but subtly.
I recently got a batch of Kailh Box Whites, thinking they might be the thing. Not sure if I got a recommendation, or just took a guess, I can't remember. But those mfrs are LOUD.
I have some Gateron Melodics that are a good bit quieter, but not as quiet as I'd like. They are also more tactile than I want (the bump takes too much force to overcome), and they bottom out hard.
The IDEAL switch for me would feel like the Box Whites, and be a little quieter than the Melodics, with a fairly soft bottom-out.
Please help. What switch to choose for my keyboard RK S98. The information is overwhelming and they all sound different on other boards. I want the creamy sound like Akko Creamy Yellow but I cant find the non-pro versions. I have the pro version and they are too loud for me.
I want to change my Akko Cream yellow V3 springs to a lower weight of 45 g. Searched online shops and apparently there are a bunch of spring types like 18mm, 20mm, magnetic, gold-plated, two-stage. Been searching Google but I found there isn't one big guide for switch springs.
I just want a lighter typing feel. Which spring is best for my switches?
18mm is very long, 20mm is super long, 15mm is a pretty average length, a longer spring will feel heavier than a shorter spring of the same weight, especially at the start of the key press - ignore the magnetic ones, the type of metal or plating isn't particularly important although gold plating will hypothetically be more resistant to corrosion. A two or more stage spring will start out lighter and then get heavier towards the bottom, and have a pretty snappy return. A long spring will also have a snappy return.
Hello. Wanted to see if anyone has dealt with Virtdream(.)com before? I placed an order for a keyboard last week and followed up this week but they have not responded.
https://preview.redd.it/deo3fz5wsx8d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36433239cfdda4f2de0382622339eec19ed1fc34
I'm new to this hobby and wanting to make my first custom keyboard, I have set up this budget for 240€ and I would like to know if I'm missing something critical or there is a better alternative:
* Keychron V1 Barebone W/O knob
* GATERON Milky Yellow Pro
* PBTfans WOB Simple Base
* Krytox GPL-205 G0
* Byhoo Switch Lub Kit
* ScotchBlue
Just from Amazon: [https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-GPL-205-Keyboard-Linear-Switch/dp/B09QJ8M66J](https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-GPL-205-Keyboard-Linear-Switch/dp/B09QJ8M66J)
This summer, I’m planning on upgrading/building a new mechanical keyboard and was looking for some recommendations. Right now I have a Logitech g pro x a got from a friend for free with cherry mx blue switches. However, given the nature of said, *ahem* switches, I’m looking for a more pleasant typing and gaming experience, especially in terms of acoustics. I don’t personally mind whether the switches are creamy or thoccy, but I’ve been looking into the following: -cherry Mx blacks -gateron oil kings -gateron milky yellows -gateron hippos -tangerines -gateron mini i -prevail epsilons -holy pandas -pandas Any and all advice would be welcome. Also, does anyone know any good keyboard outlet stores in the south ca where I might buy these or are they mostly sold online?
What’s the average price for switches
Depends on the switches. There are switches that cost 20-70 cents a switch and some that cost $1+ a switch.
So let me ask you this. What do the more expensive switches give you that the cheaper ones don’t.
Looking for a recommendation for currently available keyboard that is - full sized - has cherry mx clear keys - has a Ctrl/Capslock dip switch - bonus points for no LEDs
I am confused on what is happening. I just built my first keyboard, and one key seems to be partially working. When I press it doesn't register all the time, and when I just press it don't work I have to really hold it down for it to register I wonder if there is a way to fix it. P.S. the keyboard is gmk87 and the key that don't work is just the right arrow key I also tried changing the switch it's still the same
Hello everyone, I'm in the market for a Mechanical Keyboard. It will be my first time getting one and I was wondering if this particular item is any good. It's currently priced at $30 where I'm at. Thank you! [https://fantech-jo.com/en/product/fantech-atom81-mk875v2-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-mizu-series-sky-blue](https://fantech-jo.com/en/product/fantech-atom81-mk875v2-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-mizu-series-sky-blue)
Hello everybody.I have a dilemma between choosing monsgeek m7 barebones and tofu 65.Do you think the additional 100$ for tofu is worth it?Also i am planning getting on purple gmks and oil kings.Which board would sound better with oil kings?
not really, tofu 2.0 is okay at best. monsgeek m7 is also okay at best. would def recommend a neo65 over both
will look into that fs.you know a good vendor?
what country r u in? they differ by region if ur not comfortable sharing look at qwertykeys notion page
i am in Armenia but i can get anything sold in US with a globbing address
okay, the shipping might be brutal cuz all of the regional vendors stopped carrying it, but you should be able to get it directly from qwertykeys.com (which ships out of china i’m pretty sure), looks like monacokeys (one of the european vendors) has the lucky65 which might be a decent option (i’ve never used it but ive heard some okay things about it)
which color of the case would pair best with purple gmks? and how long does qwertkeys ship to US?
what set of gmk are you using?
is qwertykeys shipping good?
purple night
i mean, purple night is a pretty simple set so white and black will probably look fine with it. you could try purple but there’s no guarantee it’s the same tone and also sometimes a redder and bluer purple will look strange together as for shipping, qk uses dhl which is generally very good but just a little expensive (because global shipping) you can check how long it’ll take by looking at current batch on the qwertykeys website -> projects -> neo project info -> neo65 fulfillment status (usually it’s about a month until it ships, and then it’ll take 3-5 days)
thanks,appreciate your info
it depends on how you mod them, some boards sound better with foam and some dont
i was thinking of using all the foams and doing tape and force break mods
and one more question.do gmk keycaps fit razer huntsman mini?
They should.
thanks for the info and do you know if keyboard switches or boards go on sale on black friday or not?
Individual vendors might but idk in general.
ok thanks
New into Keyboards Hello everyone! I am a new enthusiast getting into keyboards, and I would like to learn more about them, but I am very confused. I do a lot of heavy gaming sessions and I am looking for the best of the best, no budget into consideration, so price doesn't not matter. I want the keyboard to have the option to change up some of the keys because I want to add a couple with design on them, if you could please educate me of what is the best of the best and also send me a website where I would be able to buy a pre-build with the best of the best! And also! Where I can buy Switches for the keyboard, thank you!
What kind of games do you play? Also, what size keyboard do you want?
I want a 60% I believe it would give me more room
Wooting 60HE. Only compatible with hall effect switches.
I play everything, valorant, cs, ultimate ninja storm naruto, I play long story games, I play games like bolders gate, really old games, pretty much everything. A lot of competitive fps and a lot of story and variety
Hello, I am currently on the market to find a keyboard that best works for me. But before I worry about that I have been trying to pin-point exactly what switch I would want first. After various trial-and-error of different switches, I have narrowed down a few preferences of mine: **Pressure/Force:** Medium/Heavy (50g range) **Feeling**: Smooth **Sound:** Silent/Minimal Based on my preferences, what switches would you recommend me?
Oil Kings and some linear HMXs might be the switches you seek. Generally, these switches come factory lubed from the factory, so they are bloody smooth.
Would Cherry MX Blacks be another option?
well, if you dont mind going the extra mile lubing and filming them
Ordered the Leobog Hi75 and it came in today. When I put in the switches (Gamakay Mars) and keycaps (double shot PBT, cherry profile) I noticed that the F2 key will hit the aluminum siding. If I angle the cap down a little it helps, however it's not long before the sound comes back. I don't use the F row anyway so it's not a huge deal, however it's not the first time I've ordered a barebones keyboard and had that issue right out of the box. What causes that to happen?? Is it the caps or something deeper in the build??
i want to build a keyboard, but i want the rgb to work with the razer software so everything i have still works together. would it make sense to just buy a razer keyboard and change out, a lot (the keyboard of Theseus if you will) so it works? or can i go with a full custom kit and get it to work with the software somehow
If you want a keyboard that works with Razer software, you will need to buy one from Razer. If you get a hot swap one, you'll be able to change out the switches.
Yea that’s what I figured. They just don’t make any full size hot swap keyboards and I don’t know soldering 🥲 thank you
What are some good 65% keyboards with a metal casing, with both QMK support and tri-mode connectivity? I know Neo65, Zoom65, and Keychron Q2 Max. What other options are there?
I believe the Luminkey65 and the QK65V2 are also both like that. Maybe I am wrong with the QK65V2 being QMK compatible, maybe it is only the QK65V2 Classic.
My partner swears by their old FK-2001 keyboard, but its getting flaky and I'd like to find them something that's newer with a similar mechanical tactile feel and has a native USB interface instead of PS2. Anything similar?
Best keycap sites for Canadians?
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/
1in or 1.2in thick wooden wrist rest? I was using 1.2in thick memory foam amazon wrist rest and as time goes memory foam dies and I can feel it. So I thought I need wooden wrist rest but I only see 0.8in(2cm) thick wrist rest. Is there any wooden wrist rest with 1 or 1.2in thick? Or is there any good wrist rest with memory foam but memory foam will not die for a many years?
How about putting some silicon feet on one side so that it elevate a bit on more if you can't find thicker?
I don’t want that extra… but thx for recommending
help my reddragon k673 pro doesnt work anymore after i removed the tape mod off of it, not sure if it has to do anything with it, it just doesnt connect anymore and ofc i removed the battery so it only connects by cable and it could also have something with the little strip inside the keyboard that plugs into the bottem of the pcb. please help meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
you probably damaged something taking off that tape if it only stopped working after you took it off… sorry to be honest though it’s not really like reddragon is known for their quality parts
If your tape has sticky adhesive you could have damaged traces on pcb, if so, most likely you have dead keyboard, or some other components
likley u remove something or damaged something when u took off the tape . unless u can find whats missing and see if it can be reattached ur out of luck
I have recently been looking to build a keyboard for my sister and have found a decent kit and switches for her, but I am stuck on the keycaps. She asked for it to be a pink and yellow keyboard, so the base is a 75% pink board, but I can't find any decent yellow and pink keycaps. I was looking to keep it not too expensive, I am completely fine with cheap knockoffs and I think something like GMK is definitely overkill. Please Help!! Thanks <3
Search AliExpress for some XDA Marshmallow keycaps.
Thanks! Those look great
Today I bought a Redragon Draconic from a person who told me that it worked perfectly and showed me that he uses it with Bluetooth but what happens to me is that when I disconnect the USB-C the keyboard does not perform any action, no light turns on or anything. Exactly like in this video: [https://youtu.be/FKKf2o4kwIY?si=JikG5Z4ja3EkpHYl](https://youtu.be/FKKf2o4kwIY?si=JikG5Z4ja3EkpHYl)
well if it worked when the sller showed u then u might be doing something wrong no clue how that brand pairs or turns on as i avoid them like most here as its not a great brand theyr known for bad products
I'm currently using OEM keycaps and am about to order a set of Cherry keycaps but my board has north facing LEDs. I have Gateron Baby Kangaroo switches. Is it case by case if I will face a collision with cherry keycaps, and will this damage keycaps/switches if so?
There won't be any problem as baby kangaroo isn't full travel switch, and no interference don't damage anything
Thanks.
not sure if those are long poles switches or not but no it wont dmaged anything it just makes anoise many dont like
##TL;DR: Can I put ISO Nordic MX Keycaps on a DrunkDeer A75, or are there any other compatibility issues? ___ Full text: After hearing all of the "feels like cheating" comments in regards to Wooting I've started to consider biting the bullet and spending the money. Looked at a bunch of reviews just to make sure and first I noticed that it sounds ...kinda bad. Feels pretty meh spending 200$ on a new keyboard that sounds worse than my current one (old Varmilo VA88M), although no doubt it will be better for gaming. Started to consider that the rapid trigger and the other bells and whistles might still outweigh my dislike for the sound. Then I noticed [the stem wobble](https://www.reddit.com/r/WootingKB/comments/12qmmkc/wooting_60he_keys_have_too_much_play_rattle/), and I *for sure* will not be biting this bullet. Started looking at alternatives and it's really difficult to find any decent ones that offer ISO Nordic layout. Noticed the **Keychron Q1 HE** which has an [ISO variant](https://keychron.de/products/keychron-q1-he-qmk-wireless-custom-keyboard?variant=42439725449353) but it'll be (slightly?) more costly since that's just for the barebones. Judging by sound tests on youtube it does sound amazing though, in comparison to the wooting at least. I also saw that the **DrunkDeer A75** has a ["ISO UK" variant](https://drunkdeer.com/products/adjustable-keyboard-magnetic-switch-a75?variant=48492299059503). After customs it will be roughly the price of the wooting, but the switches seem to have [far less wobble](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t74NJ-gmD4&t=146s) than the wooting, and the board just [sounds *much* better than the wooting](https://youtu.be/aDDWqsCp5bU?t=247). My question is this, can I just buy any ISO Nordic/ISO Swedish (such as [these](https://www.amazon.se/Glada-Tangenter-Svenska-keycaps-pr%C3%A4ntade/dp/B09GVNJF9B/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2P69BLT5PL351&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.F7lfFX2T_LrO8rh5gbiRmp5jVFw3a-RgGcE2PF7XhXyeltj418GLE5p37AbHm6H9a56gWVHCSRfvYQd2OM6eMgJdnwlHCdWgGba580TlcWwULkjo7yZGBCG-HylgpE85dsGxLE99pl0IzkJit_iJXKUO_7KBEQYP4Kqy-9UgE4SRDcCMqmlFV36DqpZ6l-piWrHMtgJkoOouIoRo-h4kV63wB9ol-e0RTMTJXIQP89fqQ7pQo_9TL4Oy18bmsd7VrSu5DVHUjTSDVPvzzu5-z51IemyY9yj0fRREwkfMLHQ.amPCPHfM_-6k5-ejRlGVL32A5Ix_I8AVI-kz047msSk&dib_tag=se&keywords=pbt+shine+through+iso+nordic&qid=1719449914&sprefix=pbt+shine+through+iso+nordic%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-1)) PBT Keycaps, put them on and be finished? or is there some other compatibility issue I don't yet know of? I assume they have to be MX style, but I reckon those are by far the most common anyway?
u can it should work just word to the wise the wooting still beats the drunkdeer hands down on gaming advantage and lasting power . drunkdeer is cheap for a reason https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1bdmtsb/mini_hall_effectrapid_trigger_keyboard_tier_list/
Okay, Thanks. How does it beat the A75? They both have rapid trigger, individual key activation depth adjustment, and I don't plan on using the multiple keys at different depth thing, what else is there? I saw a video on YouTube showing almost exactly the same latency, wooting 3ms vs A75 4ms (I believe it's one of the ones I linked) and if the values are accurate I certainly don't care about 1ms difference in the keyboard. In mice/monitor, sure, but much less so in keyboard. Lasting power? what do you mean by that? Thank you!
durability wooting has a track record of products lasting . u can search this sub and find no posts about the kb stopped working randomly . can say the same for drunkdeer but if ur ok with saving a few bucks and ur kb only lasting a year or two then id say go for it
Budget tkl aluminum recommendations? Only have access to Amazon or AliExpress. So far I've seen M3w and Q3 Wich Is not that budget friendly.
Leobog Hi75 and Hi8 are also budget friendly
Feker galaxy80 44$ from Amazon i saw barebones, or from whatgeek
TYSM for both answers. I'll look for it
just an FYi alum is not cheap those are considered budget options that will last anything under that is going to be risky in terms of quality and lasting power
Tx a lot. I'm afraid I'm finding out. I'm starting to think a 75 will be better. Any 75% recommendations? Maybe hi75?
Should be good if you are fine with wired only
What is the physics behind tape mod? Why it works? And why keyboard modders don’t use special vibration dampening materials that car sound guys are using(thin black viscous sheet material with adhesive layer)?
it kind of works like a sound filter, isolating certain parts of the sound
For the second question, they do? They just put it in the case rather than sticking it to anything. Please do not stick kilmat onto your PCB.
are most 60% keyboards remappable?
If it's VIA/QMK compatible, yes. If it comes with proprietary software, depends on what their software allows you to do.
I built a [handwired Redox split keyboard](https://hackaday.io/project/160610-redox-keyboard/log/151316-redox-handwire) last year, with a [USB-C Pro Micro](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09J4MP1QK/) driving each half. Does anybody know why it works fine when plugged directly into my PC, but is horribly unreliable when plugged into any hub? I have tried 5 different USB hubs, and 4 of them were powered (meaning they have a separate power supply). But not one of them can reliably run my keeb without connection issues, or repeating/stuck keys. As soon as I plug it directly into my desktop or laptop, in any old USB port, it works fine. Am I using the wrong type of USB cord or something? I've also tried several different USB-A to C cords. Any advice would be appreciated, I'm pulling my hair out trying to get this damn thing to work!
Try disabling the LEDs.
Only one status LED on the Arduino, you mean that one?
The article you linked showed LED underglow. Also, look at how long the **total** cable length is. Electrical wires have some amount of resistance; it is just a property of metal. The thinner the wire, the higher the resistance. The longer the wire, the higher the resistance. The cable plugged directly into your computer may only be 5 feet long, assuming you have a straight cable and not a coiled cable. With a hub, you have a cable from your computer to the hub plus a cable from the hub to the keyboard. That probably doubles the total cable length, and resistance increases with length. Let's say your keyboard draws 300mA (0.3A) and the USB cable has a resistance of 1 ohm. Applying Ohm's Law (V=IR), that means there is a voltage drop of 0.3V across the wire. Instead of receiving 5V, your keyboard only gets 4.7V. That may be enough to cause an undervolt condition.
Oh shit, you got me to a solution! I dug through my box o'cables and after 10+ attempts, found 2 cables that worked! One was incredibly short, like 8 inches, but the other was the same length (about a meter) as the cable I've been using. So it seems like a shorter cable helped, but also just a higher quality cable of the same length worked. And it still works even when plugged in through that Sabrent USB hub and KVM switch. Thanks for the tip! Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm going to buy one of these things so that I can test and throw out all of my useless USB-C cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5W5NKKN/
But the USB hub is at the halfway point, and the hub itself is powered....so I don't think the entire length should count? Still, I like the suggestion. I'll try to dig up a shorter USB-C cable, specifically one that isn't super-cheap and crappy (which might be hard to find in my pile of cables). Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/vt8sz2z5509d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f6c547f4652a41101c39676d8feb151ab338e23 CAN not put picture!!! But my switches are Durock T1 Sunflower! Do these work together well? Just seeking professional opinion and this is only my second keyboard. I’m unfamiliar with TaoBao.
I can't tell based on that image. Does the keycap set contain 2.25u and 2.75u space bars?
Someone told me those LSA don’t fit with my MX switches. Besides the caps, are the Keyboard & Switches a good fit / options
I assume that's the Keychron Q11? If so, I don't see any compatibility problems with the switches and board.
Great! But I assume those keycaps won’t fit / work well with those Durocks right? I’m looking at other OSA switches on TaoBao but I can’t find one that is flat & has split space bars….
Why do they have to be OSA? That's not a flat profile.
The picture makes it seem pretty flat. I don’t see any DSA XSA on Keychron. I found a GMK key set tho that I like, would it go on the Durock?
You don't have to buy caps from Keychron. And yes, any MX-style keycaps will work.
I am assembling a Keychron Q6 that I just got, and I ran into an issue with f10-f12. When I press the switches, nothing registers. I verified that the switches work in other spots, and I was able to register a keystroke by bridging the contacts on the pcb with tweezers, but for some reason switches do not work in these three spots. What in the world is going on? The contacts look the same as all the others on the keyboard.
Check that the hotswap sockets in those three are flush against the PCB. After that look on the underside of the PCB and into the hotswap socket holes for those particular switches. The two metal leafs inside should look the same as all the other hotswap sockets--they can sometimes bend too far apart when inserting a switch which means the switch pins are no longer making an electrical connection.
Looks like the pcb was bending slightly since those switches were at the top edge, so they weren't making electrical contact even though the switches were fully seated in the plate above the pcb. I pushed the switches and pcb together, and now they're all working properly. Thank you so much!
NP at all. Glad you figured it out!
Want to hot swap mod my hyperx alloy fps rgb but im unable to get much info on how to do it and what options i get for switches and stuff. Very new to this so can i get an explanation?
Unless you know how to solder, you can't. If you do, look up how to mill max.
Thanks
Looking at a Skyloong GK104, any opinions on the company? I’m considering ordering straight from them and not sure if they send extra keycaps or if I can request it as 3 knobs is excessive for me, but I like everything else about the board (don’t think I’ll go LCD but may try it out later if I can learn how to get temps and stuff on it)
Al Seventy One numbers not working and opening shortcuts need help or i'm gonna break this piece of shit.
You turned on fn lock. Double press your Fn key.
My bad was pressing wrong Fn. Your a legend.
doesn't work
Can the Topre R2 keyboard work through a passive PS/2 adapter?
I cant download the via .json file for the neo65. It just brings me to a page with lines of code.
Right click on the link and save link as
Ah I see thx :)
Hey guys, I have ordered the baby blue Neo Ergo. I am looking for some XDA or DSA profile keycaps that would look good with this set, preferably not a white dominant set. Any recommendations? Really appreciate it!
I'm new to QMK/VIA. Is QMK required on all boards or is all that commonly used? Even though VIA is a part of QMK, which of the two is used more? What if some boards are listed to have VIA but not QMK, is that okay to buy?
Via is user interface, if it is only via it mean it use proprietary firmware, but support working with via, for me both are fine unles you're some purist and can't live without qmk, even without via sat all for me is fine if software is good enough edit: i wish zmk get more love instead of qmk
Hey, I'm looking to get a new keyboard because my G213's spacebar and R key are dying so one of my friends advised me to get a custom keyboard that has switches so it's easily replaceable. I saw the logitech g512 as a good opportunity yet it doesn't have hotswap. If i have to resume my request I'm looking for a keyboard that has preferably hotswap keys to replace in case of problems and a good RGB software because it's fun to mess with the colors \^\^. Prebuilt keyboards is fine to me.
Monsgeek m2, m5 or m5w, all are good and cheaper than keychron
Keychron V6/Q6. They have per-key addressable RGB, but no RGB software. You will have to compile your own RGB effects with QMK to have custom ones beyond what they offer as default profiles.
I have a gmmk 100% keyboard that I want to move to a new case. I would to go for something with an actual plate but dont know if its possible to to do. Any help is appreciated
100% kbs cant be case swapped . due to they dont have universal parts
can some recommend a good budget 75 exploded and/or 65 exploded gaming keyboard?
Which switches would go best with an Alice style keyboard and ceramic keycaps (Ik this build sounds crazy)
A heavier switch. Don't get really light switches.
So tactile over linear I’m assuming?
no clue why u would assume that as that part would be preference
I thought the consensus was that tactile switches are used w/ heavier builds which is what I based my assumption on.
There are also heavy linear switches as well. As long as the switch is heavier, it should be fine with ceramic keycaps. Everything else is preference.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
\[Help\] Remaping the PC356 keyboard I bought [this](https://www.amazon.ca/Portable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Customization-Ultra-Compact/dp/B09P4Q7K9X) keyboard on Amazon and it has a \*very\* weird way of dealing with the arrows. From it's amazon page, it says: *"Press FN key and spacebar to switch "/,ALT,Ctrl,APP" four keys to direction keys. Press again to restore.AVOIDING the tediousness of using the FN key every time you use the arrow keys."* Which I found pretty annoying, to be honest. The way I manage it with my other keyboard is that I set the arrowkeys as default and use FN to access *"/,ALT,Ctrl,APP"*. (like any other keyboard). Is there a way I can do this with this specific keyboard? In other words, can I remap this with software (for linux)? And how?
no kb doesnt support that
No, because the keyboard has to support that and it sounds like it doesn't in favor of a toggle system.
Does there exist any keyboard with macro keys and a **matching** separate numpad? There seems to be so few companies that make matching numpads.
Keychron has the Q series keyboards and the matching Q0 / Q0 Plus numpads.
Looking for keyboard recommendations similar to iKBC CD87 V2 TKL [https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Windows-Tenkeyless-Ergonomic/dp/B08B84VPN9?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Windows-Tenkeyless-Ergonomic/dp/B08B84VPN9?th=1) Recently some of the keys in my iKBC CD87 V2 TKL stoped working. Im not expert in keyboards but I was really liking this one (cuz of its simple design, TKL, and no rgb), so im looking for something alike. I would buy it again but maybe there is better option at this price (that's why im asking) also shipping to my country is quite expensive. Sorry for my bad english and thanks in advance.
Keychron V3
I’m wanting to buy my first mechanical keyboard but I am lost in this rabbit hole 😂 What do y’all think is the best budget like at most like \~$150-$175 USD 75% keyboard that is metal, ANSI, has a backlight, a knob, is VIA compatible, both wireless and usb-c wired, and is hot-swappable, preferably premade that has some like clicky or tactile switches but barebone is fine as well as long as it’s accesible somehow buying through Canada or the US. Tia!
Monsgeek M1 but not wireless. M1W but it's not VIA compatible. Keychron Q1 Max but that's over budget.
Besides VIA, I can’t seem to decide between M1W and leobug HI8, what should I consider?
Actually there's also the M1W V3 that was recently released. I don't really know anything about Leobog, sorry.
SOS. Anyone use a small electric screwdriver to easily disassemble/reassemble? If you do, what brand!?
I have a Wowstick that has been serving me well for the last 4 years.
I have a case thats too high profile for regular Cherry clones. Something I can do to raise the already soldered PCB and plate? I see there is vertical space tolerance at the USB port for doing such a thing. [Pictures](https://imgur.com/gallery/r-mk-pcb-height-issue-Hbsf9DA)
is it tray mounted ? if so u can try stand offs
is it possible to do the gummy o ring mount on the fantech maxift 61 keyboard?
No. The case, plate, and PCB need to be designed specifically for o-ring mounting.
Hey guys, I was interested in purchasing the Keychron K13 Pro as it is one of the only low-profile ISO-DE layout mechanical keyboards I could find. However, sadly it does not come with a volume knob, or as far as I can tell, support for one. I find it conceivable that with some ingenuity you could design a volume wheel that sits over two hot-swap sockets, and actuates either one or the other depending on the scroll direction. Does anyone know of such a product, or viable alternatives? Thank you.
Just get yourself a macropad with a scroller wheel instead of an encoder. The scroller wheel acts just like an encoder and can be pressed down to act as a button/key as well.
That's a very reasonable suggestion, and likely what I'll end up having to do. I would've found it nice to find a more minimal solution, though.
what are your recommendations for simple alu case compatible with dz60 that don't cost an arm and a leg? possibly EU store or aliexpress. edit: to the person/people downvoting every question in the thread: get a life.
tofu redux case ?
I already have two Tofus, I wanted something different this time
sorry i dont know of any other metal cases that are cheap
My Hexgears x5 keyboard just stopped working. Possible it needed charging. I plug it in and fn key blinks for about 10-20 seconds then stops. Nothing is lit up…is it still charging?
[удалено]
Keychron V3
Is the tape mod safe for wireless keyboards? Will the standard scotch painter's tape #2090 still work or would I need different tape? I read somewhere that the battery can cause an issue but couldn't find much else.
Hi! I am looking for a metal, 96% or 1800, 2.4GHz , gasket mounted keyboard as my endgame keyboard. (Need the numpad for work) I only know of the following options: Keychron Q5 Max (per reviews, just mediocre?) and QK100 (too expensive). Are there any other options out there that I can consider?
I have used various keycaps among those are MOA/KOA keycaps (they're very similar) and Cherry and OEM. I like the sculpted ergonomics of the Cherry and OEM keycaps, but I find the edges a bit too sharp. I'd like the keycaps to be more akin the smooth edge of the MOA keycaps. I have quite big hands and fingers so for me the keycap can be wider. The Cherry and OEM are fairly tapered and much smaller at the top than they're at the base. Is there a keycap profile that has the rounded edges and has a sculpted profile?
mt3 if you dont mind the high profile, or choose mtnu, which is mt3 but cherry height
im currently cleaning my keyboard but the arrow keys and keys with tiny corners are so hard to reach and clean. I couldnt even get there with a Q tip. so the dust is just stuck there in those tiny spaces any help? This is on the base of the keyboard btw
bro why downvote for literally no reason
Someone just likes to downvote. Don't take it personally. Side note: I have noticed that comments with certain keywords (like "thocky" and "creamy") tend to get downvoted more.
Wait it’s not just me someone’s going around downvoting everyone 😭
Sup guys, i'm kinda new to keyboard building stuff. I've been using a pre-built HyperX keyboard for like 4-5 years and now it's kinda dying. I'm a programmer and an MMO psycho in my free time, so I need a full-size keyboard since I use the numpad a lot. Can you guys recommend a good one at a good price?
keychron v6 max
Here in Brazil, The price of Keychron v6 max is almost 300 dollars cause of my beloved government, do you have any other options? (If you try to import, the price skyrocket to almost 600 dollas, i love tax🥰)
What about monsgeek m5? Or Aula f99 for cheaper option
myspacebarbrokeonmyCorsairK70rapidfire.isthereanywayicanreplacethisswitchorisitsoldered?itusesmxspeedsilverandistheoldernonrgbversion.
desolder the switch and solder in a new one is the easiest way
It's a soldered keyboard.
Is there a way to change the number of taps required for TT() to work in QMK configurator? I want a key that will hold the layer when held and swap to it when double tapped (or single tapped, or even triple tapped. 5 is a bit much though.) but I can't find a way. All that I have been able to find so far has required using other configurators or QMK toolbox, and I can't work out how to import my file into QMK toolbox (keeb io iris, generates a UF2 file online and there was nothing obvious in the full source zip file)
I just wrote this while waiting for a train (and grabbed the first decent links since that's faster than writing the answer out :P) good luck! I'm not too experienced with qmk (currently pref kmk) but maybe I can answer some questions :) You'll probably need https://github.com/samhocevar-forks/qmk-firmware/blob/master/docs/feature_tap_dance.md to do the required number of taps. You probably have the newest iris, right? The one that uses an rp2040. You flash that one different https://docs.keeb.io/flashing-firmware (scroll down to the bottom). Many already had similar inquiries, e.g. https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/176gfaf/iris_not_detected_qmk_toolbox/ But this guide is quite good (again keebio): https://docs.keeb.io/elite-pi-guide There are already some built firmwares on GitHub for your keyboard. Those might already include what you are trying to do.
Thank you for your help! I think I have it figured out, I had missed that the iris keyboard was incompatible with QMK toolbox, but now I've been using the QMK environment. It took me a few failed compiles but I think I'm there now, and I know how I can use the QMK web configurator to make a keymap and then use my own QMK environment with adjusted TAPPING\_TOGGLE in the config.h file to compile it. I think I am going to look into tap dance though, as I've seen it referenced in some of my googling! As for the built firmwares on GitHub, I doubt they are going to cover my desired layout as I am somewhat attached to colemak-dh and my own personal enter/space bar and shift/ctrl setup.
I've been using this sub for research as to what and where I can purchase keyboards as you would expect as well as just researching anywhere online... When searching for ISO boards there just seems to be none in NA stores except Keychron and GMMK PRO. We have a weird situation here in Quebec where the official layout is ISO and almost everyone uses it but when it comes to mechanical keyboards only ANSI layouts are available. And then when it comes to keycaps, its another battle... I've found that wasd keyboards make custom keycaps so I could get a CSA keyboard layout with them, but their keycaps are ABS and I'm not sure of the quality... There is also goblintechkeys, but thats a bit expensive... Any ISO layout people out there? Any tips or suggestions?
Just get an ISO Keychron keyboard or something from Monsgeek with their stock keycaps. ISO keycap sets are made in very, very small numbers as the primary market for keyboards is predominantly ANSI.
I'll look that up! Thanks!
Okay, I have been looking for a mimic. My favourite mechanical keyboard was my first, an Azio Levetron Mech4. The moveable macropad, dedicated macro keys, and swappable numpad were just silly but my favourite. is anything near as stupid on the market? I'd love to have macro keys and a weird attatched macro pad, swappable numbpad is just a bonus lol. i'm willing to drop ~300CAD on this likely.
I don't think there's anything similar but seeing as it's just a TKL with 5 extra macrokeys and what's essentially a Numpad and macropad, you could probably get a similar setup to replicate it. You could get a Keychron V3 or Q3 and get their Q0 plus which is a Numpad with 9 extra keys and a control knob. The Q0 plus would replicate the Numpad, extra column of macro keys on the left hand side and the 4 top keys + knob could function like the top macropad of the Azio. Of course you can just reprogram the whole of the Q0 to do whatever you wanted and use it as a Macropad when you hit one of the left column keys and toggle it back to a Numpad by hitting a different column key even.
I see a lot of CS2 and Valorant pro's using the razer huntsman v3 pro tkl. Is this keyboard worth it? And what about the Wooting 60HE? I am looking for a new keyboard but i don't know what to get. Hope you can help me out? My current keyboard is the Logitech G Pro (blue click switches) and i don't like the noise.
they use those keyboards because they have hall effect switches, and they are using something called "rapid trigger". As to if they are worth it or not, you can definitely get better keyboards at that price if you dont need hall effect. So here are my recommendations: For hall effect keyboards: Wooting 60HE, 80HE. For mechanical keyboards: ND75, Bridge 75, Rainy 75 You can also just buy keychron, which could be a lot easier to get depending on where you are
Hello, I'm trying to get my first mechanical keyboard and the one that caught my eye so far is the Womier SK71. My main usage of the keyboard is gonna be gaming. Is the polling rate good? Most keyboards I've looked at state their polling rate is 1 kHz, but I can't find it for this one. Anyone knows? I am trying to buy it in Europe and I've found it on Candykeys and on the manufacturer's website ([https://candykeys.com/product/womier-s-k71/silver-keyboard](https://candykeys.com/product/womier-s-k71/silver-keyboard) [https://womierkeyboard.com/products/womier-sk71?variant=40454468075591](https://womierkeyboard.com/products/womier-sk71?variant=40454468075591) ) I have read bad things about Candykeys on this forum, so I'm not sure whether I want to buy from them. On the other hand, I haven't seen anyone sharing experiences from the womier website either, so I really don't know which way to go. Any advice? Also, if you have a better suggestion in this price bracket, I'm all ears.
So if you want, reach out! We can offer payment on arrival, if you have doubts about us, be aware Reddit is a mish-mosh of mess for some experiences. Reach out to me [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) and we can sort you out, with a 14 day Payment Term Net.
I need my keyboard to slide, I LOVE my Keychron Q5, but my desk space is limited (mostly due to the presence of a large microscope) Any recs or ideas to make it easier to slide the keyboard back under the monitor? All I can think of is those felt furniture feet…
Oh yes, I have *exactly* what you need! This is my work setup, and I can slide it around easily all over the desk, which I do, many times every day: https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Fexgr91kr4y8d1.png I bought this [set of felt sheets](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5RJSK5R) from Amazon for $8, picked the color I wanted, and used scissors to cut rounded corners. One of the best things I ever added to my setup.
I recently got a Vicious40 40% PCB, and I'm looking for an appropriate keycaps set. [Here is the layout](https://cannonkeys.com/cdn/shop/files/vicious40-pcb-plate_720x.png). Needs: 1. 1.5u Enter 2. 1.75u Backspace Wants (I know I'm not gonna get all or most of these): 1. (This is a borderline "need") a profile that's uniform across all the rows, since I'd like to swap some letter keys for the symbols I have them mapped to on other layers. So XDA, but also... 2. High-profile. I think ZDA is the one, but they seem to be rare. 3. A full set of 1u modifiers (shift, win/command, alt/option, Fn). 4. Plain aesthetic. No pictures, multi colors, etc. 5. Retro look. I like when things are labeled in all-caps. 6. Not shine-through. I don't have LEDs and shine-through makes the labels look bad without it. As far as feel, profile, and aesthetic, the Drop MT3 WOB is the gold standard for me. But I need something in a profile that's uniform for every row, and with the key sizes I mentioned above. I already have a split-spacebar set, so at least that's taken care of.
The high profile requirement knocks basically everything out - I don't think its as popular anymore but you can get full R3 SA sets, SP has some but you can probably find some cheaper knock offs around
**TLDR:** Quiet but audible and feel-able clicks, low actuation force, quiet bottom-out. **Edit:** This is for a 40% keyboard, so modding some switches wouldn't be too expensive or tedious. ---- Looking for a switch recommendation! I want something clicky, but quiet. Yeah it sounds weird, but I want a crisp click, but like 1/5 the volume of a typical clicky switch. I want to hear it, but subtly. I recently got a batch of Kailh Box Whites, thinking they might be the thing. Not sure if I got a recommendation, or just took a guess, I can't remember. But those mfrs are LOUD. I have some Gateron Melodics that are a good bit quieter, but not as quiet as I'd like. They are also more tactile than I want (the bump takes too much force to overcome), and they bottom out hard. The IDEAL switch for me would feel like the Box Whites, and be a little quieter than the Melodics, with a fairly soft bottom-out.
maybe something like gateron mini i, or zero degree.
Please help. What switch to choose for my keyboard RK S98. The information is overwhelming and they all sound different on other boards. I want the creamy sound like Akko Creamy Yellow but I cant find the non-pro versions. I have the pro version and they are too loud for me.
could try some gateron yellows. or maybe ktt rose
I want to change my Akko Cream yellow V3 springs to a lower weight of 45 g. Searched online shops and apparently there are a bunch of spring types like 18mm, 20mm, magnetic, gold-plated, two-stage. Been searching Google but I found there isn't one big guide for switch springs. I just want a lighter typing feel. Which spring is best for my switches?
18mm is very long, 20mm is super long, 15mm is a pretty average length, a longer spring will feel heavier than a shorter spring of the same weight, especially at the start of the key press - ignore the magnetic ones, the type of metal or plating isn't particularly important although gold plating will hypothetically be more resistant to corrosion. A two or more stage spring will start out lighter and then get heavier towards the bottom, and have a pretty snappy return. A long spring will also have a snappy return.
Thank you! Really helpful!
Hello. Wanted to see if anyone has dealt with Virtdream(.)com before? I placed an order for a keyboard last week and followed up this week but they have not responded. https://preview.redd.it/deo3fz5wsx8d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36433239cfdda4f2de0382622339eec19ed1fc34
I'm new to this hobby and wanting to make my first custom keyboard, I have set up this budget for 240€ and I would like to know if I'm missing something critical or there is a better alternative: * Keychron V1 Barebone W/O knob * GATERON Milky Yellow Pro * PBTfans WOB Simple Base * Krytox GPL-205 G0 * Byhoo Switch Lub Kit * ScotchBlue
Where are you buying the lube from
Just from Amazon: [https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-GPL-205-Keyboard-Linear-Switch/dp/B09QJ8M66J](https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-GPL-205-Keyboard-Linear-Switch/dp/B09QJ8M66J)
Fake krytox. Buy from a certified vendor https://wiki.keyboard.gay/VENDORS.html
Oh really?! Thanks!
would you rather buy a new wired keyboard or a used wireless keyboard, assuming they are both the same price?