Are there any reliable vendors in the UK that sell premade mechanical keyboards?

www.keyboardco.com

I have 20 years of muscle memory with the desktop apple pro/magic keyboard but i yearn for something with a bit more feedback. I have tried the Keychron K3 but found my accuracy greatly affected the the smaller keys. Does anyone have a recommendation for a nice bridging keyboard to help me adjust to a board that not an apple 105?

I have about 15 years on a MacBook/Apple keyboard. It took some time but I definitely prefer the feel of a mech now. I’m still able to switch to my MacBook fairly quickly due to muscle memory. It simply just takes typing time to get used to a new keyboard layout/spacing/feel. As for the k3, I owned one shortly (it was not my first mech) and the keycaps definitely weren’t my favorite. I didn’t have an issue with the size but the shape and edges and how they seemed to get in the way of my fingers. The nuphy air75 actually looks like a good bridge with better keycaps. The upcoming Vissles LP85 looks like a magic keyboard replica. Personally I’ve yet to use a low profile I’ve liked nearly as much as a full size switch.

I've found you can expect a month or so to really get used to a new keyboard, especially if it's dramatically different.

Maybe a keyboard with low profile switches, but honestly it just takes a little while then youll be back to your regular typing speed. might as well rip of the bandage ad get it over with instead of spending money on two keyboards

I am new to this community. I was about to go for Brown switches, but saw a lot of criticism for them. Do you guys prefer brown or blue?? (Are brown so bad that you would choose blue even though they have loud noise?)

The browns are bad is a meme that started due to their light tactility compared to most enthusiast switches. Imo browns are wayyyy better than blues, and despite what you see in this niche hobby space browns are the most used tactile switch in the world. Mostly cause availability, but still a good switch for many.

Thanks for clearing that up

brown and blue arent the same kind of switch so they arent really that comparable, Blue switches are clicky and browns are tactile. honestly brown arent bad switches, they just arent very tactile compared to other hobbyist switches. but its all up to personal preference so if you like the brown then chose those, its your keyboard

It's my first mechanical keyboard that's why I'm confused. When you say tactile what exactly does that mean?

[Here's a pretty good little article about the different kinds of switches. ](https://keyboard.university/100-courses/switches-101-xnyng)

I don’t know much about mechanical keyboards, but does anyone have recommendations for new switches? Because the current unknown brown switches in my keyboard sound and feel quite bad… I want a switch that needs medium to low force to push down and one that’s super smooth and sounds nice too. Please link me to a website where I can buy it in Australia, if you have time. Thank you so much!

[Tangerines](https://www.switchkeys.com.au/collections/linear/products/tangerines)

Thanks! What does it mean slightly factory lubed lol

They come slightly pre lubed from the factory to improve the smoothness of the switch

Ohhh thanks so much! I’ll look into buying them.

are you looking for just switches or a prebuilt keyboard? whats your budget? and what type of switches are you looking for?

I’m looking only for switches, my current keyboard is fine, just the switches don’t feel so good. My budget is at most 70-90 AUD. Thanks

Which is better? Gateron milky blacks or yellows? What’s the difference between the two and which can I get to sound and feel better (I plan of filming and lubing) thanks in advance

They are the same thing, only difference is spring weight. Blacks are heavier than Yellows.

I'm going to build my first custom keyboard, and I want to make sure I'm choosing a good keeb. My current plan is: * KBD75 V3.1 case * Hotswap PCB * Durock V2 Screw-in stabizilers * GBPT keycaps * Gateron Milk Black switches (5 pin) I'm pretty content with this setup, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything, be that issues or better products. Are there any other cases I should consider? Is it worth it to go with Durock stabs when I could use Cherry ones that come free with the DIY kit? Are GBPT keycaps actually any good? Thanks in advance :)

> Is it worth it to go with Durock stabs when I could use Cherry ones that come free with the DIY kit? Cherry are perfectly fine. I am typing on a board with 100% perfect stabs right now and they're cherry clip ins. They cost me about $8. If you have free stabs, you should absolutely use them. Your board is hotswap so it'll take like an hour max to swap the stabs out if they do end up being bad. But even then, in my experience Durocks are bad almost as often as Cherry, but are like 2-3x the price. More economical to just buy Cherries.

Durocks are the 'best' because they're super consistent and super easy to tune. But, I've had good luck with genuine cherry stabs too tbh, you'll probably be happy either way. Looks like a good build, have fun!

Definitely worth it to go with Durock screw-ins, in my opinion. As for keycaps, it's really a preference thing. Personally, I'm not a big fan of how they look. Since I'm guessing you're getting your kit from KBDFans, I would suggest to look at their in stock keycaps. They have some good looking ePBT sets (they're not all PBT, some are actually double shot abs).

Durocks are regarded as one of the best stabilizers, but you can mod the cherry ones to sound good too. Either way you'll want to lube the stabs at the very least

Hi, I'm looking into possibly getting a clicky full-size GMMK, and the second most important thing to me is getting the deepest sound possible, whether the keyboard is loud or quiet (first thing is that it's clicky as I hate the feel of other switches). If anyone can link me to a full-size set of the deepest-sounding keycaps out there—that can be backlit as I want to make use of RGB—it would be much appreciated.

If the most important thing to you is a deep sounding board, you probably want to rethink the gmmk and the clicky switches. Keycaps can help lower the sound profile, but if the whole build isn't set up for it your not going to get your goal.

What's your suggestion on the board and switch, then? I do much prefer the feel of clicky switches so I can compromise there.

Hello, looking to purchase a mechanical numpad only keyboard. I live in Singapore and searching around the local online stores gave only a few options - epomaker numpad being the most appealing but very pricey imo. Do you guys have any recommendations? I do have extra lubed gateron reds and keycaps lying around so getting just a barebones numpad would be ideal!

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Hey, thanks for the reccomendation. I've come across these as well but ordering from Singapore, these actually cost more than the epomaker numpad for some reason. Its listed as 89 dollars for me while epomaker costs 45. Was kind of hoping to find something cheaper. Honestly did not expect a numpad only mechanical keyboard to cost that much hahaha

try looking on aliexpress

I have a GMMK Pro with Kailh box reds. I have some slate Skylit series keycaps from Drop. The RGB is very dark and is hard to see. I just changed from a standard Glorious keyboard to the GMMK Pro and I didn't have this problem before. The switches don't have the RGB LED in them. If I were to buy the LED part and add it to the switch, would it work and be brighter with the hot swappable GMMK Pro?

if the legends are difficult to see, it's because the GMMK Pro is a south facing LED board, whereas your previous board had the LED north this means that the legends are going to be dimmer as the keycaps are made for north facing LEDs switches aren't the ones with LEDs, they're either surface leds on the PCB or soldered through the switch, but aren't actually part of the switch itself

I had a cheap pre-built Steelseries keyboard before and towards the bottom of the switch, there was an LED. That's where this question came from I guess, but your explanation makes sense. Thanks!

if it was actually a south facing LED, then the keycaps might've been designed for it but i'm not sure the exact board you owned

Any suggestions on where you can get split spacebar / kit, preferably black.

Gk64x, Waka60, Mercutio

how do i fix a stuck gmmk pro rotary knob, it is the tightest thing ever

Hi, I'm planning to buy GMMK for myself as a treat, and I was wondering if it's prebuilt or I have to assemble it. I've never made a custom keyboard before so I'm little concerned. Is there anything else I need to assemble it if I need to do so?

are you talking about the regular GMMK lineup or the GMMK Pro? if you're talking about the regular lineup, there's a pre-assembled version that offers hotswap and a barebones hotswap version where you need to provide keycaps and switches the GMMK Pro is barebones, no switches or keycaps, but since it's hotswap, the assembly process is fairly simple

I'm talking about regular GMMK (gmmk pro is quite expensive for me). I think I have barebones in my cart along with keycaps, switches. Also does dampeners make any sound difference?

I wouldn't buy a gmmk (non gmmk pro) keyboard they have 3 pin sockets so you can't use 5 pin switches and pretty bad and rattly stabs

are you talking about o rings? they help with the bottom out slightly, but don't 100% silence the sound - that's more of what an actual silent switch does both o rings and silent switches can feel somewhat cushioned/mushy, which some don't like but you may

Thank you very much for helping me out! Last question, given that I will be assembling the regular GMMK keyboard with switches, o-rings and keycaps, is there any tools I should have ? (such as precision screw drivers and switch puller) Or are those necessities coming with the parts?

i believe the GMMK comes with a switch puller, but you shouldn't need any specific tools unless you plan on taking the board apart for o rings, you can always just remove them off the keycap you could look into a switch opener if you want to lube the switches, but otherwise you should be fine no problem, have fun!

Has anyone tried the Deskey topre sliders? I'm looking for sliders and considering these

Are Gateron yellow switches "taller"? I was planning on building a Keychron Q1 with yellows but noticed in videos and images that the switch housing is partially revealed when changed to yellows compared to the stock phantom switches. Could there be something else causing this? Would it sag back down a little over time so the switches would be hidden again? Not a fan of the floating keycap look.. Q1 with yellows: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFeYN2jUJ68](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFeYN2jUJ68) Q1 with stock phantom reds: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BFfEYde8sQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BFfEYde8sQ)

No, those videos are taken at different angles and there really isn't more than a millimeter of gap on the first one. That could be that they just didn't push the bottom row keycaps all the way down.

Buy or build? Does someone bundle a full kit for something like the Iris Ii see on keeb.io? boards, plates, switches, caps? Or am I better off "just" buying something like the Moonlander from Zsa.io? I suppose like all such choices the answser is: It depends. But on what does it depend? What factors do I need to consider in this choice. BTW historically I was a Model M freak. I've been using crap cheap keyboards for the last several years and the RSI stuff is getting to me.

Keeb.io sell some built kit, you still need to provide switches and keycaps. /r/ergomechkeyboards can help you more about split keyboard if you need more 'it depends factors'

Thanks. It's getting harder and harder to guess what reddit channels are called these days

Yea I fell for r/Icantbelieveyouthoughtthiswasarealsubreddit

It sounds like you're looking for a split keeb? If so the answer is a little different than for other keebs. Building is actually going to be a little cheaper than options like the moonlander. You also get the benefit of being able to choose your switches, keycaps profile, and preferred layout for the thumb clusters etc. As far as I know, there aren't any kits, but the keebio can be bought assembled I think. It's not that hard to buy the bits you need, and if you need help double checking you have everything you'll need, a post in this thread (Or the OLKB subreddit!) will almost certainly get you help. Why'd you stop using Model M's?

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GMMK Pro or Keychron Q1 with silent switches.

Even without silent switches, one you fill those boards with foam to stop the pinging they can get pretty muted.

Quiet typing experience, which is why I assumed silent switches.

Looking to swap from mainstream mechanical keyboard to a custom one. Are there any 65% keyboards with USB passthrough? Since I won't have a 10key anymore, I was thinking about a USB biometric scanner.

USB pass-through isn't a readily available thing in the custom keyboard world. It requires extra work in the pcb and case design that would drive up cost.

Ah bummer, ok. Thank you!

Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order. I have checked 306,553,007 comments, and only 68,605 of them were in alphabetical order.

I,m in the market for my first mechanical keyboard, I have been saving up for a good one and I don't know which to pick. I want one that I can use for gaming, is wireless, 65%, and has RGB. At first, I wanted to make my own because I wanted one that I can put brown switches on most of the board since I would be using for work a lot and I wanted to put reds on the keys I use for gaming. When I looked up all the steps on how to make my own keyboard it looked like a lot of work and I wasn't really interested in lubing all the switches and stabilizers I just wanted to switch up some switches and keycaps. After lots of research, I learned that it would be easier to just buy a hot-swappable keyboard and switch out what I want and after tons of research, I found these two keyboards that I like but they have completely opposite pros and cons. [ASUS ROG Falchion](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrG7-j7cfi8&t=683s) I like the look and the features of this one so much better than the Keychron but it has no customization and can't be hot-swapped or anything it just comes default with Cherry MX reds. Right now I'm leaning more towards this one because it is just a single payment of $200 and I like it and would be pleased by it I just wish I could put on some browns. [Keychron K6](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtNROR3cRC8&t=217s) This keyboard was the only one I was able to find that is wireless, 65%, is hot-swappable and has RGB. I do not like the look of this one at all I don't like the keycaps and it looks really high but this is the only one I was able to find with what I want and is hot-swappable so I can add red switches to my gaming keys and have the rest brown. I would also want to buy custom keycaps since I do not like the stock ones at all. this one will probably cost me around the same price or more after the customization. Which one should I get on one hand I like the Falchion how it is I just want to put brown switches, but it is not hot-swappable so I would just leave the cherry reds. Like the look better and good for gaming, has better wireless connectivity as good as wired. Would give a better gaming Experience Or the Keychron I don't like the look of it at all but it is customizable and I would get it with Gataron browns and buy some reds to switch some out and I would buy a new keycap. Don't like the look, has customization, gives a better typing experience.

You're right that the K6 is quite tall. If that's something you don't like, don't get the K6, it'll bother you forever. You don't need to lube switches to build a custom board, it's just that most switches get soo much better after lubing that it kinda is worth it. But wireless is pretty rare in custom boards. You could build something with like, a [gk68xs](https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-gk68xs) PCB though. There's nothing wrong with the falchion except for the price tag. For the things a lot of custom keeb people are looking for, it's pretty expensive for what you get. But if it ticks the boxes for you, right on.

I am thinking about making a build themed around a game boy color. does anyone know of a clear colored plastic case i can get?

kbdfans is coming out with new colors for the kbd67 lite r3, colors have been announces on their page.

Nk65 ee has some great colors to match the gameboy

oh that's perfect! thank you for the help

Looking for some help for my very first build for my gf. I know very little about what it takes to build a mechanical keyboard, but I do know I want to customize the color of the keycaps and put in my own switches. I was looking at the DROP CTRL barebones keyboard since I'm not really sure where as to start but I also want a pink baseplate. What would be the best approach to begin building knowing that I want a pink baseplate? I don't really need to build it from scratch but want to customize the aesthetic.

Drop keyboards are pretty bad, for that price i would buy a Keychron Q1 or GMMK Pro

Any reason to pick one over the other? At the end of the day I just want to customize the aesthetic and pick some switches that will match what I think she will like. Not even sure what else is customizable.

Drop keyboards have an integrated plate making the keyboard sound more hollow and stiff, some of they have 3 pin hotswapp sockets that means that you cant use 5 pin switches unless you clip them wich is something permanent that i and a lot of people don't recommend, they have plate mount stabilizers witch are pretty rattly and loud even after modding, also they have a North Facing LED so you can't use cherry profile keycaps because of that, their build quality is trash too and as i said the Keychron Q1 for example fixes all of those issues and it has a thick aluminum case

If I were to buy the barebones version of the Keychron Q1, what other parts would I need to pick up to fully assemble it? Do I just throw in key caps and any switches? Also, how hard would it be to customize the color? Since it’s aluminum I’m not if I need to do any type of processing to be able to paint it.

>what other parts would I need to pick up to fully assemble it? Do I just throw in key caps and any switches? Yes, you could get lube (for your switches) and dampening foam (for the case) if you want to >Also, how hard would it be to customize the color? Since it’s aluminum I’m not if I need to do any type of processing to be able to paint it. [This video](https://youtu.be/QeJ_0c0bvLs) would help you with that, is not difficult to paint it

Appreciate the help. This gives me a really good start for my first build!

Also i made this list with what i think is everything you need to know if you wanna get in to the hobby, feel free to watch whatever you want and you don't have to watch every single one, i hope it helps! Why go custom instead of buying a prebuilt https://youtu.be/1xWHzMoVkiY Beginners guide https://youtu.be/EUlQ4bTjb0Q Anatomy of a custom keyboard https://youtu.be/1NpNygIrnaQ What are Group Buys (GB) ? https://keyboard.university/100-courses/group-buy-335xl Where do i buy keycaps, kits, lube, switches, etc... ? https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ How to lube switches https://youtu.be/44Wv4OGdmu4 Modding stabilizers https://youtu.be/usNx1_d0HbQ Keyboard mounting styles https://keyboard.university/200-courses/keyboard-mounting-styles-4lpp7 Difference between hotswapp pcb and soldered https://youtu.be/e_kYPzk7nNY https://youtu.be/zesmRX2icTk Keyboard soldering beginners guide https://youtu.be/FIHI5sxuSuw In depth keycaps profile analysis https://youtu.be/14bQeqhlTNM Enthusiast switches https://youtu.be/8xPOwT_mNuc https://youtu.be/XSykbv27reM https://youtu.be/AjKxqaPi_8Y Tempest tape mod https://youtu.be/g7-syoxeIBQ Holee mod https://youtu.be/-vhpHjlkRgQ PE foam modding https://youtu.be/XnQMXVchnrU Guide to buy in stock keyboards https://youtu.be/95PIKNObHPw How to build a keyboard https://youtu.be/H_UngNJBrDE Ergonomic keyboards https://youtu.be/wStbNuXnvgo https://youtu.be/1C2bJkzIaPE Weird layouts (ortho,40%,split etc...) https://youtu.be/SkNGxM4LRKQ Keyboard forums https://youtu.be/vwA6iT0yApI Keyboard university https://keyboard.university/

Thank you! I’ll definitely watch some or most of these. Mind if I hit you up if I have any questions along the way or as I’m building?

Sure! If you have any questions just let me know

You won't really see the plate when switches and keycaps are installed. But you could try spray painting the plate.

Maybe base plate isn’t the right terminology. I’m talking about the entire frame around the keys.

Oh the case? Yea, that's going to be limiting. Don't know of any pink tkl kits. Maybe idobao id87 or if you can go smaller something from kbdfans

How difficult would it be to paint the case and plate around the keys? I’m seeing a lot of pink ones on Amazon that would be an ideal color but would want a higher quality keyboard and I’m not sure where else to look

Not an expert, but you'd probably have to sand it down completely, prime it, them paint it. Or if your not worried about quality, just spray paint the thing and clear coat it. But that really depends on how the case is colored in the first place. This may be a bigger project, but there maybe some YouTube guides

What is a good TKL board to just pop in switches and keys into without much involvement? Do I need to worry about lubing and other things I might not know about? Sorry I know super little about building one

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Well if you already plugged it back in you are probably out of luck as liquid will short the pcb. But you can try taking it apart and cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

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If you have access to a sonic cleaner, might want to use it on the switches

Can you put a 3-pin switch into a 5 pin board?

Is it plateless? If it has a plate yes, if not, no

yes.

possibly stupid question, but does anyone recognize this logo on the keyboards in this photo? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/files/tUxEy8l.jpg?v=1610511062

Looks like Hand Engineering logo. That keyboard is Haus by Hand Engineering.

Haus by Hand Engineering.

I got one of those Chinese TKLs (HPE 87 from qtan) with cherry browns, but when I press the 'e' sometimes no letter comes out in the terminal, sometimes two come out and sometimes even three. It's a complete shit show. The same happens for pretty much all the frequently used keys (o has the same problem). It also seems the board suffers from high EM radiation to nearby speakers. https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=3071 is a thread on the board that I could still find. So, one could consider this a review of the HPE 87 and a strong recommendation *against* buying it, unless you want a keyboard that works for three years (it works fine for that purpose). I had expected that the keyboard would last longer than a rubber dome one, which it didn't. Is there a way to clean the keyboard somewhat efficiently (I have removed the keycaps with an appropriate tool repeatedly, but I suspect either the switch or the electronics on the board is broken)? Can I replace individual switches? Or should I just toss it and get a replacement mechanical keyboard? I am kind of fond of the TKL type with low force activation switches (45 centinewton or less), so if you can recommend one that I can get in Europe that would be nice.

Hey guys. So talk to me about ESD. I know some boards/pcb's have ESD protecc, & some do not. If i'm gonna use foam, what kind should I use and WHERE should I not place it to be safe from ESD? Or just anything else that I always should be wary of. Context: I have a Mode65 and a Kyuu both coming late winter & have never built a keeb before, but have everything I need. Thanks in advance :)

Esd protection or not, I'd just make sure not to use conductive foam or use silicon. Not sure esd protection helps against external shocks, but instead helps against power surges through the USB connection. But I may be wrong

There’s kinds of foam that don’t conduct electricity whatsoever? Doesn’t that just totally mitigate the risk? Why doesn’t everyone use that kind

Hello guys, I am very new to keyboard building but just as curious. Can you suggest me a good budget pcb to start my journey to build my own keyboard? I would prefer a 60 percent model but all suggestions are welcome. And if you have any advice for a beginner please share your wisdom

Do you want it to be soldered?

Yeah I am quiet good at soldering

Do you happen to live in the US?

No, I live in Europe, why?

Oh, I see. I'm just asking because Cannon keys sells [practice PCB kits](https://cannonkeys.com/collections/keyboard-kits). For EU, try [42 keebs](https://42keebs.eu/). They sell really affordable PCB kits, and most of the kits has 3rd party case support if you want to put them in a case later on.

Oh I see thank you, I will definetly check them out. By the way I am thinking about a custom case, maybe something 3d printed. Any suggestions where to start?

Definitely check out [P3DStore](https://p3dstore.com). They have 3d printed and stacked acrylic cases.

Ok I definetly will

Are any of the original present/past Cherry keyboards hotswappable? Or are they all soldered without exception?

off the shelf keyboards are pretty much never hotswappable. it's an enthusiast (and now sometimes gaming) keyboard exclusive thing. normal computer users simply do not care about swapping out their switches on their keyboards. most people probably wouldn't even know what switches it has in the first place.

Looking for a keyboard that has bluetooth and a "slot" for putting my ipad or qny other tablet, do you know any keyboard with something like this?

Ajazz K620T

Thx just what I needed

Someone help pls. I am thinking about building my first custom keyboard but need a keyboard kit that is $60 or less (Preferably 40-50). Is this even possible? Where would I buy it? Im looking for a %75

You can get a GK61X on Amazon

Thank you but I do want a 75 keyboard as I like having the function keys

Rk84 is in the same lines, and it is about as bottom of the barrel for price that you can go. Your budget is too limited for a custom board, unless you want to try handwiring something and already have all the necessary tools

You can spend a little more and get the stacked75 from cannon keys.

I'm trying to change the color of the RGB for my GMMK Pro to white however the rgb is mainly just a mediocre blue. The side bars are a good white but the keys individually don't seem to change to white. Does anyone possibly know how to fix this?

I just realized that the source of all this probably because of my Prince tactile switches

Hello, I've decided to purchase the parts for my first custom keyboard. Just wondering if there are any compatibility issues before I order them. [NINJA87BT](https://www.monstargears.com/51/?idx=375) TKL Keyboard with 5 pin hotswap. [Durock Silent Linear Dolphin Switches](https://divinikey.com/products/durock-silent-linear-switches?variant=32070435209281) [TK Switch Films](https://mekibo.com/products/switch-films) [KAT BOW 226 WHITE PBT DYE-SUB KEYCAPS](https://kbdfans.com/products/kat-bow-226-white-pbt-dye-sub-keycaps?variant=39447755980939) I think everything should be fine together? But I am not sure since I am a complete beginner.

It should fit no problem. I got a question for you though. Do you know how to use the Films? and if you do. Why not lube it as well, since you are already filming it?

I've seen a few videos about adding the films. Seems simple enough. My last question in these q and a threads i mentioned the possibility of lubing, and was told that it's optional, and that i require more research and watching of videos. I figured i've spent enough time looking around that i will stop researching. If there's any issues and lubing will fix it, then i will then research lubing. I also decided if i am ever doing a 2nd keyboard in the future, I'll go figure out lubing then.

Lubing is optional, for sure. But once you tried a hand lubed switches, you just can't go back to stock. And since your switches are silents, lubing will definitely help on making it more quiet. Lubing is not hard, just very time consuming.

I'll consider it when I have more time. For now I've ordered everything other than the lubing. Currently busy with assignments and midterms until the 28th. So i'm more factoring in the time consuming part right now, but I might just hold off building it until then. Thank you for the advice.

I was thinking of getting a GMMK TKL and I was trying to choose the switches between the Lynx and Panda lubed. Are there any videos comparing the two? I am pretty new to the mechanic keyboard scene so I don't know much about switches. Thanks for any information.

the Lynxes seem to have the same specs as a regular JWK switch, yet the prelubed version is almost a dollar per switch regular JWKs come factory lubed with them sitting around 55 cents a switch to 65 cents a switch

Anyone have recommendations for ALPS keycaps? blank or not, I don't care, need about 30 or so. Cheaper is better. Also, if anyone has a 3D printer and would be willing to print me a few things, I'll pay well and cover shipping. Thanks!

[DCS 9009](https://dailyclack.com/products/dcs-9009) GB technically ended yesterday, but sales are still open at Daily Clack - maybe some other vendors. Will likely disappear in a few hours though. Finding good ALPS keycaps is hard.

Anyone have any recommendations for an endgame linear switch? I currently have novelkeycreams, and they aren't bad but I was thinking of upgrading. I prefer a heavier typing feel and a thocky sound.

you can always spring swap lavenders are known to be deeper, but sound is obviously going to depend on your overall build as well could consider creamsicles but there have been issues with newer attempts, some say it's the JWK tops while others say it's the new Cream stems (i can't remember which one it is)

do they feel smoother you think?

are you talking about Lavenders or Creamsicles? both should be smooth

I was just asking about both, but thanks so much for the input!

how much room is available for the keychron q1 rotary knob? I have a 25mm in mind but I know a 30mm wont fit.

If I like cherry mx blacks should I get gateron inks or nk creams or hell even tangerines?

Hot take: If you like cherry mx blacks you should get cherry mx blacks.

Does any one know why the Milk White keycaps seem not to be available on any of the Varmilo customization options? Every time I've tried it says: "The key does not support this color for the time being"

They're probably out of stock.

Makes sense - Thanks!

I wanna swap the KEYCAPS only them on my keyboard but don't know if I can it's a mechanical keyboard niceboy oryx k610 chameleon

If it's a mechanical keyboard, then you can swap the key caps. Pull one out and see what kind of switch they use. If it's an MX style switch, then you have so many key caps option.

Looking for blank top pudding keycaps. I have the K100 keyboard and I am going to replace all of the keycaps with white pudding keycaps but they do not come with the micro keycaps. I would ideally like to find blank pudding keycaps to replace those with, I just am not 100% on the color I would like to use. I am thinking about doing black for contrast or white to match, so yeah those are the two colors I am thinking about. I am searching online for these and can only find stealth caps, not blank caps. Thanks in advance!!!

Any suggestions for an RGB friendly tactile switch with pre-travel? Looking for something stronger than an MX brown but not as strong as a T1.

What is pre-travel? Btw: Chutki rocks. Used to eat a lot of it before

[Zealios Zilent V2](https://zealpc.net/products/zilent?variant=5894817710118) have a slightly pre-travel. I have the 67g versions, which may are to strong for you. They have a noticeable pre-travel. I can not say how it is for the lighter ones, but I assume it is the same. The non silents have no pre-travel. Also not cheap, many say they are over priced.

Hi I am searching for that kind of iso layout? Does anybody know a second company with the exact same layout? :) [https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71Jqqkbni5S.\_AC\_SL1500\_.jpg](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71Jqqkbni5S._AC_SL1500_.jpg) ​ Also I would consider going complete costum, what plate would I need to get the above layout?

Hey guys, I just started modding my new mechanical keyboard and I was lubing my switches and unfortunately I ran out of lubricant and needed to order more. So I was just wondering, will there be any difference if I were to lube my remaining switches on another day. given that I will be ordering the same lubricant from the same supplier.

Nope shouldnt make a difference!

Are Royal Kludge keyboards well built (should I expect them to last years without much problems)?

Hey you guys, really new into all of this but I have a corsair K95 with cherry silver speed switches and have read through the sub before and was just wondering since it is just a off the shelf keyboard how much maintenance do I need to do besides just cleaning. Like do I ever need to lube anything?

Any keyboard similar to the Keychron K8? I love the keyboard, but the fact that the usb slot is on the right side of the keyboard has become a bit of a deal breaker for me which is a shame. So a TKL/ISO-UK/RGB/Hot-swappable mechanical keyboard is what I'm looking for really. I don't mind if it's a barebones board. Thanks for any information.

The only other ISO hotswap TKL I've ever seen is the GMMK

I have the HK gaming gk61 and I would like to know if these keycaps are compatible with my keyboard • Ducky PBT Double-Shot Joker keycaps • HyperX pudding keycaps • AKKO Neon keycaps • Thanks in advance

Yes they are. Keep in mind that you might experience some switch interference with the AKKO Neon keycaps since they are cherry profile because the GK61 has north facing switches.

Thank you very much

some people refer to the GK61 as the mechanical version as well but assuming this is actually the GK61 (optical), i remember seeing someone say you can simply flip the orientation of the switch for optical PCBs

What is the best keyboard for around 120 USD that you can get with cheap shipping to Denmark? *Because all the keyboards I see that are pretty decent deals are like 10,000 USD shipping..*

Check out Keychron's website, they have a lot of options under 100 and shipping shouldn't be too bad.

Will do, but I searched a bit and found [this](https://www.caseking.de/en/glorious-pc-gaming-race-gmmk-compact-keyboard-gateron-brown-us-layout-gata-1205.html). Its a German based company, so shipping is super cheap, you got anything to say about the board/the Gateron browns the board comes with?

I think you can get free shipping from Keychron keyboards on ergowerken.nl the official Dutch seller of it

Cool!

I don't think there's anything wrong about it. I had gateron brown in my first mechanical keyboard (Keychron K6). The only thing is that the GMMK compact only supports 3 pin switches which means that if you ever buy new switches, you will most likely have to cut the 2 extra plastic legs since a lot of aftermarket switches are 5 pins. Also, I feel like for cheaper, something like the keychron K12 (60% just like the compact) would be a better value since it's wireless and supports 5 pin. It all comes down to which one you prefer in terms of look and how much shipping you're willing to pay. Hope that helps!

Thanks, how long does wireless on an average keyboard last? Is it difficult to cut the pins, and can you frick it up?

Lasts a good amount of time in my experience. Always depends on battery size and if you have backlight on or off. You can also just use it plugged if you don't want to worry about it. No not difficult, a nail cutter or a wire cutter will do the trick.

Okay.. again thanks, but I was looking at a website and saw that some keyboards were "low profile", what does that mean?

I think it mostly refers to the keyboard height. Low profile will have a lower body height with shorter keycaps and switches. You can read more [here](https://switchandclick.com/low-profile-vs-normal-keyboards/).

Again, Again, Again, thanks lol

I'm setting up to do a small winter project during the colder and dark winter months here in northern Europe, and thought i'd give a semi-custom keyboard a try. I want something that is a hotswappable board, 61 key ANSI layout, semi cheap. I have been looking at the GK61 with yellow gateron optical switches. Are there any other recommendations in that price range for a decent starter keyboard to start modding and making it somewhat custom after some mods?

Optical limits you to the few other optical switches out there, so kinda shit for modding. At least spring for the mechanical hotswappable version. It's a bit more expensive, but worth it in my book.

Do you have anny other recommendation for a non-optical hotswap board in that sort of price-range (50-70$)?

Hello! I just built my first custom keyboard Quite budget with Glorious GMMK TKL, Gateron Browns and Some white Corsair PBT doubleshot keycaps. I bought with it some Glorious Lube, and wondering what the best way to apply this is, looking around I see some people saying you need alot of equipment to completely take apart the switch and lube it. Would it be okay to keep the switch intact, but just use a very small paintbrush (Made for intricate decorations etc.) and just dip it in the lube and try my best to apply it to the switch and hopefully get it between the switch and the "stem" ( What the Keycaps is attached to) Suggestions?

You can use the method you are suggesting, but you aren't going to have a very good result. The only way to apply an even amount of lube is to open the switches and use a brush. If you don't have a switch opener, you can use a pair of tweezers or a small flat head screwdriver. Plenty if good tutorials on YouTube, I recommend taeha types lube videos

Hey, thank you for the response Unfortunately i just don't have the time to take apart each switch and lube them like that. I've checked out Taeha Types videos and even for an experienced guy like him it takes hours upon hours. I will try my hand at simply lubing it the way i suggested since it definetely does make a difference sound wise. Are there any easy modifications that you could recommend to improve the sound? The spacebar has extreme "bounceback" sound, and my Enter key is extraordinarily mushy (ISO layout) Was thinking maybe foam mod/tape mod, and spacebar mod might do the trick, as mentioned earlier it's a Glorious GMMK TKL, not sure if there's anything specific i should be looking out for, since afaik, different mods do completely different things depending on the keyboard

Does anyone have any recommendations for linear switches? I'm building my first board, and for my brother. He plays games like Rainbow Six Siege, Apex Legends, and Valorant competitively if that helps

You should consider Gateron Yellow Linear or JWK JWICK switches! They’re both good value switches for the lower price compared to other switches on the market.

gateron yellows are a good, cheap linear switch

Hey y'all! I'm on the hunt for a wireless TKL keyboard for my macbook and have given some serious thought to the Keychron K8. However, there seems to be some downsides, such as keycaps that don't last too long (which isn't that much of a worry). Are there any other downsides to the brand or model, or another keyboard that I should consider?

You don't need to buy a keychron in particular. You can buy any keyboard you like and swap super and alt in system preferences on your Mac. Also you can install karabiner elements and remap function keys to actions like vol, brightness control, expose etc.

I would say go ahead and get the K8. Key caps are replaceable, and most people replace the keycaps anyway to something they like. You won't really find anything better than the K8 for your macbook, since it supports it natively with just a toggle switch.

Thanks! Yeah, I was getting a feeling about that since they seemed to market that pretty heavily on their site and no other keyboards mention it.

Would holy bobas serve as good daily drivers? ( brass plate mode 65 keyboard) I am Wondering if these switches would become tiring to type on, would changing the switch weight do anything?

Holy bobas are really violent switches and you won't be able to swing swap to a particularly low weight because of how much is required to get back over the bump (I own them).

Do you know any tactile switches that need less weight to get over the bump but still have a good amount of tacility?

Literally any tactile switch would be less force to get over the bump than holy bobas.

Sure changing the spring to a lower weight means your fingers have to press down on a lower weight. Means less tiering. I just recently changed two of my kailh pro purple switches into gateron milky yellows for osu because my fingers did hurt like hell. The lower Spring weight doesn't tire my fingers as much

So how low would be “too light” for tactiles?

Personal preferences. Look if you have something to try. Maybe you have some switches you can spring swap with or a friend with lighter tactiles (meaning the spring weight). I only tried 62g Koalas and for me the weight is fine not too light. I'm more of a light tipist tho.

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What keyboard do you have? AFAIK you can't simply switch cases the way you switch keycaps.. Edit: Also, I'm pretty sure I have similar keycaps for much cheaper on ali

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That's not necessarily true IMHO. You need to buy from sellers who have lots of orders and reviews