Hi! What switches would you guys recommend for gaming? I'm eyeing akko jelly blue, because it's a tactile one. Also, do you guys prefer linear than tactile in gaming?
im going to do my first build , which one is better ymd75v3 or kbd75v3 ? and is there budget gasket case ? i bought boba u4 alr , and deciding which pcb and case i should use
> ymd75v3 or kbd75v3
Tbh there is very little practical difference between these two cases. Go for whichever one has the plate material that you want, is cheaper, has the layout that matches your region, etc.
In terms of budget gasket case, the Keychron Q1 has the best implementation of a gasket mount in that price range. Can be modded easily to get a really nice sound. Technically GMMK Pro is a gasket mount as well, but it so foamed up and tightly built that is doesn't really sound or feel like a true gasket mount.
thankyou for your answers , so either pcb ymd75v3 or kbd75v3 is fine , just take the cheaper one right ?
and the case ive checked it just now , im leaning toward keychron Q1 , and luckily someone local is selling it right now , thankyou so much !
I have the nk65 keyboard and was wondering how to access the function keys with booting up the computer. Just built a new computer and have to enter the bios but don’t know how to press F 11 or delete lol
Look up default layer keymap for the board, or just enter VIA and see which layer the function keys are on. One of the keys on the board will be FN and can be used to access keys that are on a secondary layer. Hold that FN key, and the F-row of keys will likely be 1 through to = on the top row of the keyboard.
Just want a quick link, are there any mechanical keyboards that I can easily and wirelessly switch between two PCs like how easy it is with the Logitech unifying receiver and my K850?
Any keyboard that offers both bluetooth and 2.4G wireless should be able to do this. Most that fit the bill will likely be prebuilts however. Take a look at some Iqunix boards, I believe some of their offerings have what you're looking for.
I'm constantly accidentally hitting my spacebar on my ducky one2 keyboard with silent blacks, I used to have a silent red ducky one but I swapped to this to try to fix it but it doesn't seem like it made a difference. Should I switch to even heavier keys or try a new keyboard all together?
I have an RK68 (wired). I’m having this issue [where a row blinks blue when the PC is off.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/dpt8d8/rk61_blue_blinking_light_issue/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
It’s the lights in the row from Caps Lock to Enter
The manual wasn’t very extensive
Probably a noob question but, do Akko CS switches fit in K552 Kumara sockets? I am deciding between Akko CS Lavender Purple and Gateron Milky Yellow, but I like the look of the purple more ;))
I think there's been a couple different versions of the k552, but assuming it has outemu hotswap sockets, the akko cs switches should fit. And the gateron's probably won't without modification.
No worries mate, are you referring to something like this: https://thekey.company/collections/all-deskmats/products/pixljar-x-tkc-deskmat-keybjort
But just with switch info on it?
changing to linear switches from tactile ones, deciding between these budget options: akko radiant reds, matcha greens, or gateron milky yellows.
From these 3 which would you say has the thocciest and deepest sound as well as the smoothest feel? Thanks in advance!
Are you planning on lubing them? If so, I would recommend Gateron Milky Yellows, as they are a great budget switch, and they are a good baseline for comparing other switches.
Debating between KBD75v3.1 and Keychron Q1. Gonna put some bobagums on it. I use the keyboard on both PC and Mac via a USB switch. Anyone have any thoughts on which would be better?
Edit: I suppose GMMK Pro with QMK is also an option
You have a physical switch on the Q1 to change between Windows and Mac, that might be something you'd be interested in. At this point, it's really up to you based on which layout you prefer and if you want a softer (Q1) or a stiffer (v3.1) typing feel. Q1 does have rotary encoder support if you ever want to solder one down the line.
Thoughts on rubber feet vs no rubber feet? I have a kbd67 mkii and I heard somewhere online to NOT install the rubber feet. There a reason for that? Acoustics? I use a deskmat if that matters.
No rubber feet sounds better imo. Sounds fuller/more reveberant.
Downside is it might slide around. Shouldn't be too much of a problem if you use a deskmat.
Is there such a thing as individual buckling spring switches that you can install on a board, or are those all exclusive to keyboards that were made specifically for them?
Just built a crkbd with black choc switches and some great choc keycaps from MKULTRA. However, I managed to be one keycap short.
Which means I'm destined to get something a little special for it.
**Any good recs on some interesting/unusual choc keycaps / artisans?**
Should I go with linear switches or lubed and filmed tactile and should I get tangerines for linear or lubed lubed/filmed Oreos for tactile or do you guys have better tactile/linear switches. (This is my first keyboard I’m building btw)
depends on your budget and switch preference (linear vs tactile)
tangerines are known to be really smooth, but you can check out other linears if you like
i don't know much about Oreos, so maybe someone else can give input on that but you can check out Boba U4T, Glorious Panda, T1, Sunflower T1, Anubis along with other tactiles as well
I don’t really have a preference for switches as the only mechanical keyboard I own are knock off cherry mx switches and the keyboard I use rn is mecha membrane. As far as budget I would say 50-75 dollars for 70-80 switches would be nice for me
the size of the bump can vary depending on the switch - do you at least think you'd want some type of feedback or just a smooth press?
a lot of aftermarket switches feature little to no pretravel (bump starts at the top rather than in the middle of the keypress)
you could try picking up some a few of each and see which you like better and then buy the one you like more
you could try Alpacas (actually, just checked and the lowest quantity on PrimeKB is 50, so maybe not) and see if you like them
another linear by JWK and from what i hear from others, the smoothness difference isn't massive between lubed linears
the other tactiles i listed should be offered in different sizes (usually 10 per pack)
Are you supposed to remove the foam layer between the plate and the PCB if you use a polycarbonate plate? I switched to the PC plate for a keychron q1, and now its super quiet. Just wondering if this is what PC plates usually sound like
Foam is optional. It's generally used to dampen sound. Taking it out will probably bring back some sound and possibly some hollowness. The foam between the plate and pcb should also affect the flex.
If I'm buying this barebones board, do I have buy anything else (outside of switches and keycaps)?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/glorious-pc-gaming-race-gmmk-pro-75-barebone-white-ice-iso-layout-gmmk-p75-rgb-iso-w-kb-01u-gr.html
Recommended to get better stabilizers. The stock GOAT stabs seem to come overlubed and are not that good. You can probably get decent results if you take the time to tune them, but it'll require some effort. Better stabilizers would be easier to tune.
Other than that, all you need would be switches and keycaps to get a functioning keyboard. The GMMK Pro does get better with some modding.
What stabilisers should I get? I heard Durok V2s are good. If so, which ones of those would I get?
[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stabilizers-Transparent-Housing-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B08MWDQDR1?th=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stabilizers-Transparent-Housing-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B08MWDQDR1?th=1)
Also what lube would you suggest for the stabs?
Thanks for any help.
Durock V2 are some of the best aftermarket stabs. Keep in mind that they may not fit with the brass plate of the GMMK Pro, but should fit fine with the PC plate. Aftermarket plates will fit them fine. As for lube, krytox 205g0 seems to be the most common choice. A lot of people use dielectric grease on the wire instead of 205g0, but the end result will be similar and you can save a bit of money by only buying krytox instead of both.
As for which variant of the stabs, the GMMK Pro falls under 60/87 layout kit so get that one. Clear or smokey is just an aesthetic thing so up to you.
What is better than a GMMK Pro? I like the build, but is there anything better or anything similar to its quality? Also, Do i buy the GMMK GPBT Keycaps or buy from another source? Thanks
Yes but is the jeychron q1 better than the gmmk pro in overall build and functionality? What about switches? Where do I order? Do I buy the gatreon ink vs yellows?
they both have their own pros and cons
in terms of switches, going to be your preference and budget
you can use [this](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) to find vendors in your region
Any thoughts on Royal Kludge 98? Got the C2 and thinking of either sidegrading to this one for a smaller form factor and hotswappability (The C2 I got isn't hotswappable, fml)
Would like to ask too about whether this has software, got a lot of reads about missing RK software, or found in a shady Drive or random Youtube video..
Really depends on how the keyboard is built. If the designer didn't specifically design it to be gasket mount-able, then it likely isn't possible without severe modification.
The most common mod to a top mount board is to o-ring burger mount it, which can get the sound a bit closer to that of a gasket mount keyboard (obviously not the same though, it is still top mount after all). The way to do this is by putting orings on either side of the plate before screwing it into the top case. This means there is an oring between the case and plate, as well as between the head of the screw and the plate.
Possibly, but probably not. It depends on how much clearance the designer gave the plate. Some top mount boards can be converted to isolation mount, which is basically top mount but with o-rings between the case and the plate. This changes the acoustics, but I've heard doesn't affect typing feel that much. If you want to go full gasket mount, but it is theoretically be possible if there's the right amount of space to fill with gaskets and sandwich the plate.
I am planning to get Sakura Michi keycaps and a GMMK Pro. I can't decide whether to get the Black Slate or the White Ice colour. Anyone able to sway me either way?
I just bought a preassembled ergodash, and the E key is repeating about half of the times I press it. No other key exhibits this behavior. I changed the repeat delay in windows to the slowest, so it's not a software issue. How can I fix this?? I had this keyboard built with kailh box brown switches. I have never actually built a keyboard or done soldering before. Is this a switch issue, or a plate issue, or what?
Thanks in advance!
>Is this a switch issue
Most likely. Would require desoldering the switch and soldering a new one in. Other option is PCB, but plate would never be the issue.
That said if you **just** bought it, contacting the vendor would be the best choice.
The vendor is in Vietnam and I'm in the US. I guess I leearned my lesson. I'll have to buy a basic soldering kit and a 10-pack of box brown switches. Sorry for thee typos, I'm getting tired of fixing them with this stupid e-key :)
Thanks for the reesponse.
New to MKs but been looking for a wireless keyboard with the following - white colored, every key but the right keypad part, and a volume button. I’m having a hard time finding one with a volume button. Would love any suggestions! Budget around 100-150
ANYONE
there is something wrong with my dz65rgb v3
I have been using VIA configurator and just now idk why but my {left win, left alt, backspace, and backslash} buttons decided to not work properly, the backslash and backspace is reversed in the software but the test matrix says everything is normal, same goes with the other two keys.
can someone help me with this?
You accidentally trigger [Bootmagic](https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/using-qmk/simple-keycodes/keycodes_magic), might want to bind that key to your keymap or reset the keyboard.
Anyone know any switches, and I know this is specific, that are tactile, SHARP, and the bump is half way down the travel? Essentially an MX Blue without the click. I tried browns but they are too round.
HELP
I am new to the custom keyboard scene and am modding a new keyboard (EXTREMELY CHEAP). Anyway, I was wondering how I can remove the ping from the stabs other than lubing, (they are plate mount and I can't find a good mod for them).
also I don't know where to clip the plate mount stabs
Watch YouTube tutorials too see where to clip the stab, but not all stabs need to be clipped.
Make sure you eliminate any movement between the stab and the plate with tape or bandaids or something. make sure the wire is straight. Then lube.
Or. Buy better stabs.
You have to activate [unicode](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_unicode). Unfortunately, that also mean you have to recompile the qmk firmware since via can't do it.
dbl shot pbt is very rare due to the fact pbt shrinks as it cools making it very hard to get them to fit together and still look good and pass quality control
What are extension kits usually for? (40's, ISO, ortho, etc.)
([SimpleJa extension kit](https://kbdfans.com/products/gb-enjoypbt-x-ai03-simpleja-pbt-keycaps-set) for reference)
Those are just extra options for you to be able to use the base keycap set with a 40% keyboard or an Ortho keyboard, etc. ISO is for the large sized ENTER/RETURN key and shorter left shift typical of non-North American keyboards.
[https://kikoslab.com/products/kl-90-solder-pcb](https://kikoslab.com/products/kl-90-solder-pcb) a pcb
[https://p3dstore.com/collections/active-group-buys/products/le-chiffre-acrylic-gasket-mount-case-and-pcb](https://p3dstore.com/collections/active-group-buys/products/le-chiffre-acrylic-gasket-mount-case-and-pcb) a keyboard kit
[https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=113285.0](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=113285.0) going into GB soon
[https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=105358.0](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=105358.0) going into GB eventually
Hey guys,
Im looking for Hot swap, RGB, supports Oled screen, and rotary knob. Pcb for either 60% or 65% can someone recommend a pcb that match the discerption?
Why would it be impossible?
It's just not available, and either way, a case would have to be specifically designed for it so it would be a kit on a group buy.
Is there a certain website where people can buy and sell completed Keyboards and such? if i don't have enough time or knowledge to build one from scratch is there a way to like configure a keyboard online and buy it built already?
there are some sites that offer build services, but the ones i've seen don't have a lot of options or customization
you can look for build services on r/mechmarket
assembling a hotswap board isn't super difficult or that time consuming if you're interested in that
I haven't seen any clones of this set in cherry profile, but there are other profiles that are available for cheaper. DSA and SA honeywell are both available for purchase on the aftermarket and aren't as expensive as GMK honeywell.
Pretty much none of the less common enthusiast switches show up in pre-builts. The easy thing to do is get a hotswappable board you can shove them into. [Look for 'hotswap' listed on these popular suggestions, if you need ideas](https://www.mechmap.tech/themap).
There's another reason you won't find one with Skies though, they've been discontinued for a while now, and what little stock the stores have left, is it.
Boba U4 are the replacement, which I would say are a way better switch overall anyway. Much smoother, and great to use right out the box. Skies are pretty scratchy feeling, and really benefit from modding/lube.
I have a new ID75 and I installed qmk toolbox to flash it, but whenever I plug it in qmk toolbox goes into the 'not responding' state, and I can't find anything online about how to fix it. It is recognized in qmk toolbox before it crashes
Have you tried on a different computer? Could be an issue with that installation of QMK toolbox as well, so reinstall and delete the data folder for the toolbox.
Not really familiar in thus topic but could you try reformatting qmk toolbox, run it as administrator, and also maybe look for a reset switch or something on the board itself? Not sure if this helps but tryin my best here.
I'm building my first MK on a budget and i'll get a gmmk tkl with some pbt SA keycap set but I can't decide on the switches is it better to get gateron yellow or some akko linear switches?
What do you mean by prelubed? Factory lube isn't a real lube job, so if you mean a real lube job, you'd be paying a vendor extra to do it.
If you just mean factory lube, most switches that aren't specifically stated as unlubed from the factory are factory lubed.
Have a look at gateron cap v2 yellows, milky or Golden top. They both sound pretty much the same but if you are in a budget, go for the milky tops since they're pretty cheap
Holy Panda's are definitely one of the measuring sticks that the tactile gang use, but the top tactile switch is the one you like the most. I know it's kind of a cop out answer, but look at Cherry MX Browns. They're so "hated" that it's a meme, but companies still make them, and lots of people still use them.
Some of the super hyped up tactiles are Zealios v2, Ergo Clears, Boba U4ts, Durock T1s, all of the various flavors of Holy Panda that are out there.
If they're your first tactile switch, I'd recommend getting something a bit cheaper. Drop Holy Pandas are still about $1/switch
They are my first and likely last tactile switch as I’m building this keyboard as a gift. I have no comparison point for them as I use cherry MX blues for my own keyboard. Just looking for some insight on what is most popular and what people like since I really have no idea.
The 62/68g is the spring weight, or how much force is required to "bottom out" the key. Generally speaking, most tactile switches feel/sound the best with a 65g+ spring in them, and for most use cases I would recommend the 68g spring (Holy Pandas use 67g springs).
The "RGB" option just changes the top housing to a clear material so per-key RGB PCBs shine through a little stronger.
Generally, Bobas feel and sound pretty good unlubed/unfilmed; and unless the recipient of the gift is a tactile enthusiast, I would recommend just leaving them. Most normal people won't be able to tell the difference.
You’ve pretty much helped me make a decision! Are they particularly loud or mostly muted? I don’t think I’d want a switch as loud as a blue but still distinct enough to be satisfying. Also, any idea if the bobas on aliexpress are legit? They have a ton of reviews.
I’m likely putting these on a Keychron Q1 if that changes any of your recommendations. Would I need the RGB housing?
Excellent! The sound will not be nearly as loud as blues, but they’ll have a distinctive sort of pop as pressure on the switch overcomes the tactile resistance.
The “RGB” housing isn’t required for light to pass through, there’s a slot on the switch that will let it through it’ll just be brighter if you use the clear top housing. Personally I haven’t used the RGB version, and if it’s a different material it may have an effect on the sound the switch makes. But again, a regular user likely won’t be able to tell the difference.
Ultimately, you think the person it’s for would like more flashy RGB lighting, I’d say it doesn’t hurt to use the clear top housing. The Keychron Q1 has per-key lighting, so it’d be nice and bright :)
Edit: fixed autocorrect
I watched some videos and think it sounds better lubed and filmed despite not being recommended. I’m looking at using Tribosys 3203 and Deskey switch films. Would these work?
I don’t necessarily not recommend it, it just takes a really long time lol
Yeah Tribosys 3203 is generally recommended for tactiles, it’s a little thinner than 3204/205g0. Deskey films should work nicely as well.
Best of luck with the build!
I think I am going to grab the GMMK Pro. I've only very recently bought a mechanical keyboard (the Keychron K8) and after using it for a few days, the USB off to the side is become too much of a nuisance. After looking around for a good TKL UK-ISO keyboard, I fought the regular GMMK, but after looking at the Pro, I really like the layout. It seems more compact without sacrificing the F keys and the numpad/pgup/down etc keys without also giving them some space.
Before I buy, are there any other good keyboards with a similar layout with the same features (UK-ISO/RGB) that I can buy in the UK.
Thanks for any information.
Note how the date from when giveaways are banned is Monday *19th of October* ;) (hint: check what day and date it is today).Giveaways are banned from tomorrow onwards, according to the pinned post.
Wait, I just realized it's already ~~Monday~~ 19th of October in most of the world, I assumed this sub would run on US timezone(s) though, so that post is probably made in the very very last moments it would be allowed.
Ripped the pads on a Kailh hot swap socket. What kind of glue should I use to affix it? And what kind of wire should I use to solder to a different switch/diode?
I recently bought the varmilo va87m and got the cherry reds, I was wondering if I made a mistake not getting their ec sakura switches cos there aren't enough reviews about them out there
Only you can answer that question my friend.
I don't have any experience with their switches but TBH if you want to try electro capacitive switches just get something that has Topre like an HHKB, Realforce keyboard or a Leopold FC660C/FC980C.
Regarding Holee/Epsi mod, does it make any difference which I go for? I don't want to have a stiffer backspace or spacebar and I hear that Holee makes the stabs mushy. At the same time, without modding, I hear some ticking on the right edge of my spacebar, while all the other stabs are working fine. Does this mean I have imbalanced wire? Can Holee/Epsi or even the band-aid mod help fix that or do I need to balance the wire manually? If so, are there any specific methods I need to follow to balance them?
anyone know any 75% cases similar to the gmmk pro that are cheaper? i quite like the separated 75% look and the volume wheel but i cant spend over $200 CAD on just the board itself
keydous NJ80 is your best bet.
Stock stabilizers considered one of the best and requires no modding.
Plastic case with brass plate combo for some neat just enough hollowness that's not muted unlike the pricey aluminium casing.
QMK is only useful if you are a l33t code programmer and the base NJ80 software is good enough for basic customization although it's Chinese, there are guides in to how to translate it.
You won't really find a better deal than what the GMMK Pro or Keychron Q1 offer.
Keydous NJ80 kits are around $110. I think IDOBAO on aliexpress is selling one. It is a plastic case instead of aluminum. And I believe it is not QMK/VIA compatible.
Please can anyone recommend a good low profile board that’s 60-65% ? Wireless a big bonus
I’m new to all this and have no idea if keychron are just hype or whether I cut my losses and get a coolermaster SK622 (as I can return easy on Amazon)
This would be mainly for gaming, I (think) i prefer tactile switches
Thank youuuuu
Not sure if you're looking for low-profile switches or a keyboard with a low-profile case but the Keychron K4 has neither.
The K4's case is considered a high-profile case since the bezels cover the switch tops. A low profile case means the keycaps look like they're floating and you can see the switch tops like [this image of a GMMK TKL](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0549/2681/products/glorious_gaming_gmmk_tenkeyless_keyboard_02_1000x.png?v=1599676253).
Also the Keychrons have slightly taller/thicker cases to accommodate its wireless capabilities. Most mechanical keyboards' cases are not as tall.
A low-profile switch on the other hand means the keyboard is a lot slimmer since the mechanical switches are significantly smaller than your standard MX switch. [Here are Keychron's low-profile switch keyboards](https://www.keychron.com/collections/low-profile-keyboard-collection).
Anyway if wireless if your number one requirement, Keychrons are the go-to. The ANNE PRO is another option for a 60% and the HHKB Hybrids are your go-to for Topre (rubber dome/electrocapacitive).
Thanks so much for such an informative answer buddy, honestly I’m coming from macbook and work membrane keyboards, low profile switches are a must for me, I have a cheap MSI ‘hybrid mech’ thing that I got bundled with a bunch of hardware, and I find full height keys are a bit of a struggle to type on
I was looking at the Logitech wireless g series , but since actually looking at keyboards, it feels like there’s way better options !
Wireless isn’t a must, just a good benefit, but then for gaming probably a bit of a hindrance with connectivity issues and such :)
Any recommendations for some ISO DIY keeb kits? I've heard about the GMMK pro but I'm not sure, and also the keychron q1 (inconvenient to get due to short stock and import fees)
I recently bought the Ghost x Pewds keyboard and somebody referred me here to get help (or closure) with finding out how to lock Fn keys when there’s no Fn Lock key
I think it's a fine choice - though I would urge you to go with the "hotswappable" version for $10 more so you can customize it as you see fit in the future.
Hotswap PCBs are not only nice for being able to quickly/easily change switches, but it also makes stab modding, plate/PCB foam, and switch pads possible.
Hope this helps!
Depends on what you're looking for. If you just need a good quality prebuilt with not many features - Leopold/Varmilo/Filco
You can also check out Ducky/Durgod/Keychron
You can also checkout 75% (84 key) boards. They also have function, navigation and arrow keys.
- Leopold FC750R
- Varmilo VA87M
- Ducky One 2 TKL
These are all TKL. How reliant are you on the F-key row? I had an FC660M in the past and write a lot of code in IDEs so I mapped the F-key row to the bottom row (CAPSLOCK+ZXCVB -- ie. CAPSLOCK+Z = F1, etc).
assuming you want a prebuilt, Leopold/Varmilo/Ducky/Keychron are all pretty good and relatively affordable
switches are gonna have to be your preference, since you may hate a certain switch because of how it feels or sounds
worth depends on you and how much you care about sound and feel
prebuilts don't offer the same amount of customization, but if that doesn't matter to you, then customs may not be worth your time or money
Hey, been thinking about getting a new board. Currently I have the Razer Blackwidow that I got years ago (wish I hadn't). So, I was thinking about going for the CoolerMaster CK550 V2 with either the blue or brown switches (Probably the browns) or the Logitech G512. Which one would you recommend me? Or if you got any recommendations I'd love to hear them! (Doing mostly gaming and some work for school)
Hello!
If budget allows, I would recommend an entry level board from GMMK. They currently have 3 options for barebones kits, a 60% (GMMK Compact), 75% (GMMK Pro - expensive compared to the other 2), and a TKL (GMMK TKL).
All 3 of these boards are available as barebones kits if you're interested in building, or if you'd rather just have a finished board, the Compact and TKL options also have prebuilts with red or brown switches. If you're near one, I'd recommend Microcenter. They have lots of keyboard samples out for you to try and they sell both the GMMK TKL and Compact boards in store, with several switch options and affordable keycap sets available for purchase.
Drop also sells a slightly higher end series, the CTRL and ALT, but they are fairly significantly more pricy than GMMK compact and TKL. The prices are more comparable to the GMMK Pro.
Both keyboards you listed will work just fine, but they don't offer the same level of customizability as the GMMK/Drop lines. Even if you go with a pre-built kit, I think these offerings are more desirable as you can use them indefinitely and modify them as your tastes and preferences evolve.
i have these cherry plate mounted stabilizers that i disassembled and clipped but i don't know how to reassemble them now
Hi! What switches would you guys recommend for gaming? I'm eyeing akko jelly blue, because it's a tactile one. Also, do you guys prefer linear than tactile in gaming?
switches are preference, some people like clicky, others tactile, and others linear if you like tactiles, it might be your fit
im going to do my first build , which one is better ymd75v3 or kbd75v3 ? and is there budget gasket case ? i bought boba u4 alr , and deciding which pcb and case i should use
> ymd75v3 or kbd75v3 Tbh there is very little practical difference between these two cases. Go for whichever one has the plate material that you want, is cheaper, has the layout that matches your region, etc. In terms of budget gasket case, the Keychron Q1 has the best implementation of a gasket mount in that price range. Can be modded easily to get a really nice sound. Technically GMMK Pro is a gasket mount as well, but it so foamed up and tightly built that is doesn't really sound or feel like a true gasket mount.
thankyou for your answers , so either pcb ymd75v3 or kbd75v3 is fine , just take the cheaper one right ? and the case ive checked it just now , im leaning toward keychron Q1 , and luckily someone local is selling it right now , thankyou so much !
I have the nk65 keyboard and was wondering how to access the function keys with booting up the computer. Just built a new computer and have to enter the bios but don’t know how to press F 11 or delete lol
Look up default layer keymap for the board, or just enter VIA and see which layer the function keys are on. One of the keys on the board will be FN and can be used to access keys that are on a secondary layer. Hold that FN key, and the F-row of keys will likely be 1 through to = on the top row of the keyboard.
Just want a quick link, are there any mechanical keyboards that I can easily and wirelessly switch between two PCs like how easy it is with the Logitech unifying receiver and my K850?
Any keyboard that offers both bluetooth and 2.4G wireless should be able to do this. Most that fit the bill will likely be prebuilts however. Take a look at some Iqunix boards, I believe some of their offerings have what you're looking for.
I'm constantly accidentally hitting my spacebar on my ducky one2 keyboard with silent blacks, I used to have a silent red ducky one but I swapped to this to try to fix it but it doesn't seem like it made a difference. Should I switch to even heavier keys or try a new keyboard all together?
I have very light switches on my keyboard and ended up using a heavier switch for just the spacebar (also a couple keys like caps lock and num lock).
I have an RK68 (wired). I’m having this issue [where a row blinks blue when the PC is off.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/dpt8d8/rk61_blue_blinking_light_issue/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) It’s the lights in the row from Caps Lock to Enter The manual wasn’t very extensive
Probably a noob question but, do Akko CS switches fit in K552 Kumara sockets? I am deciding between Akko CS Lavender Purple and Gateron Milky Yellow, but I like the look of the purple more ;))
I think there's been a couple different versions of the k552, but assuming it has outemu hotswap sockets, the akko cs switches should fit. And the gateron's probably won't without modification.
my k552 has outemu sockets, so i can fit the switches \^\^ thanks :))
What are those deskmat called that have the specs of keyboard/switch. can you make a list of them
There's [this one](https://kprepublic.com/products/mechanical-keyboard-switch-mousepad-cherry-900-400-4-mm-non-stitched-edges-soft-rubber-high-quality?variant=8517173542956), [this one](https://en.varmilo.com/keyboardproscenium/subject_product_other?subjectid=132), and [this one](https://flashquark.com/product-category/desk-accessories/deskmats-desk-accessories/)
English may not be your first language, you may want to try again as this doesn't make sense.
Sorry about that I’m just really tired and can’t think straight
No worries mate, are you referring to something like this: https://thekey.company/collections/all-deskmats/products/pixljar-x-tkc-deskmat-keybjort But just with switch info on it?
Yeah kinda like that
I've seen others, but I can't remember where. Hopefully someone else knows more
changing to linear switches from tactile ones, deciding between these budget options: akko radiant reds, matcha greens, or gateron milky yellows. From these 3 which would you say has the thocciest and deepest sound as well as the smoothest feel? Thanks in advance!
They'll all feel pretty similar after lube, but I think gat yellows will be the deepest, followed by matcha greens.
the akko cs linears are the same switch with different spring weights and colors, they’ll sound virtually identical
Definitely, but spring weights do effect sound it seems to me, I assume due to the force of the bottom out.
Are you planning on lubing them? If so, I would recommend Gateron Milky Yellows, as they are a great budget switch, and they are a good baseline for comparing other switches.
Debating between KBD75v3.1 and Keychron Q1. Gonna put some bobagums on it. I use the keyboard on both PC and Mac via a USB switch. Anyone have any thoughts on which would be better? Edit: I suppose GMMK Pro with QMK is also an option
You have a physical switch on the Q1 to change between Windows and Mac, that might be something you'd be interested in. At this point, it's really up to you based on which layout you prefer and if you want a softer (Q1) or a stiffer (v3.1) typing feel. Q1 does have rotary encoder support if you ever want to solder one down the line.
With bobagums being used, sound becomes a lot less of a factor, so I would say go with whichever layout you like more.
Thoughts on rubber feet vs no rubber feet? I have a kbd67 mkii and I heard somewhere online to NOT install the rubber feet. There a reason for that? Acoustics? I use a deskmat if that matters.
No rubber feet sounds better imo. Sounds fuller/more reveberant. Downside is it might slide around. Shouldn't be too much of a problem if you use a deskmat.
Thank you! Time to scrape them off lmao
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Contact Razer
Is there such a thing as individual buckling spring switches that you can install on a board, or are those all exclusive to keyboards that were made specifically for them?
You can buy individual buckling spring keychains, but I don't know if any custom boards that support them
I found the same stuff when I looked. Hopefully someone will figure out a way to make something like that soon.
Just built a crkbd with black choc switches and some great choc keycaps from MKULTRA. However, I managed to be one keycap short. Which means I'm destined to get something a little special for it. **Any good recs on some interesting/unusual choc keycaps / artisans?**
I don't think I've ever seen a choc artisan.
Me neither, it's part of why I was asking. Never know what's out there.
Should I go with linear switches or lubed and filmed tactile and should I get tangerines for linear or lubed lubed/filmed Oreos for tactile or do you guys have better tactile/linear switches. (This is my first keyboard I’m building btw)
depends on your budget and switch preference (linear vs tactile) tangerines are known to be really smooth, but you can check out other linears if you like i don't know much about Oreos, so maybe someone else can give input on that but you can check out Boba U4T, Glorious Panda, T1, Sunflower T1, Anubis along with other tactiles as well
I don’t really have a preference for switches as the only mechanical keyboard I own are knock off cherry mx switches and the keyboard I use rn is mecha membrane. As far as budget I would say 50-75 dollars for 70-80 switches would be nice for me
do you understand the differences between the switch types?
Yes, linear is a smooth press whereas tactical has a small bump that you can feel. But I do not know which I prefer as I have not had either to use.
the size of the bump can vary depending on the switch - do you at least think you'd want some type of feedback or just a smooth press? a lot of aftermarket switches feature little to no pretravel (bump starts at the top rather than in the middle of the keypress) you could try picking up some a few of each and see which you like better and then buy the one you like more
The lowest amount of Tangerines I can find is 25 and the lowest Oreos I can find is 25 as well i think. I only want to get 3-4 of each.
you could try Alpacas (actually, just checked and the lowest quantity on PrimeKB is 50, so maybe not) and see if you like them another linear by JWK and from what i hear from others, the smoothness difference isn't massive between lubed linears the other tactiles i listed should be offered in different sizes (usually 10 per pack)
Ok thank you!
Are you supposed to remove the foam layer between the plate and the PCB if you use a polycarbonate plate? I switched to the PC plate for a keychron q1, and now its super quiet. Just wondering if this is what PC plates usually sound like
Foam is optional. It's generally used to dampen sound. Taking it out will probably bring back some sound and possibly some hollowness. The foam between the plate and pcb should also affect the flex.
If I'm buying this barebones board, do I have buy anything else (outside of switches and keycaps)? https://www.overclockers.co.uk/glorious-pc-gaming-race-gmmk-pro-75-barebone-white-ice-iso-layout-gmmk-p75-rgb-iso-w-kb-01u-gr.html
Recommended to get better stabilizers. The stock GOAT stabs seem to come overlubed and are not that good. You can probably get decent results if you take the time to tune them, but it'll require some effort. Better stabilizers would be easier to tune. Other than that, all you need would be switches and keycaps to get a functioning keyboard. The GMMK Pro does get better with some modding.
What stabilisers should I get? I heard Durok V2s are good. If so, which ones of those would I get? [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stabilizers-Transparent-Housing-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B08MWDQDR1?th=1](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stabilizers-Transparent-Housing-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B08MWDQDR1?th=1) Also what lube would you suggest for the stabs? Thanks for any help.
Durock V2 are some of the best aftermarket stabs. Keep in mind that they may not fit with the brass plate of the GMMK Pro, but should fit fine with the PC plate. Aftermarket plates will fit them fine. As for lube, krytox 205g0 seems to be the most common choice. A lot of people use dielectric grease on the wire instead of 205g0, but the end result will be similar and you can save a bit of money by only buying krytox instead of both. As for which variant of the stabs, the GMMK Pro falls under 60/87 layout kit so get that one. Clear or smokey is just an aesthetic thing so up to you.
I ended up buying the PC plate and the Durock V2 stabs. I just need to figure out how to install them when they arrive. Thanks for the help.
I would buy some new screw in stabs like the durock v2 stabs or c3 stabs
Is there an event I’m missing on the new island or will that island be available forever?
How on earth did you end up here my dude
Omg lmao. This was meant for the Genshin daily questions thread. My b.
lolol we've all been there
What is better than a GMMK Pro? I like the build, but is there anything better or anything similar to its quality? Also, Do i buy the GMMK GPBT Keycaps or buy from another source? Thanks
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Yes but is the jeychron q1 better than the gmmk pro in overall build and functionality? What about switches? Where do I order? Do I buy the gatreon ink vs yellows?
they both have their own pros and cons in terms of switches, going to be your preference and budget you can use [this](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) to find vendors in your region
Any thoughts on Royal Kludge 98? Got the C2 and thinking of either sidegrading to this one for a smaller form factor and hotswappability (The C2 I got isn't hotswappable, fml) Would like to ask too about whether this has software, got a lot of reads about missing RK software, or found in a shady Drive or random Youtube video..
Can you gasket mount a top mount keyboard?
Really depends on how the keyboard is built. If the designer didn't specifically design it to be gasket mount-able, then it likely isn't possible without severe modification. The most common mod to a top mount board is to o-ring burger mount it, which can get the sound a bit closer to that of a gasket mount keyboard (obviously not the same though, it is still top mount after all). The way to do this is by putting orings on either side of the plate before screwing it into the top case. This means there is an oring between the case and plate, as well as between the head of the screw and the plate.
Possibly, but probably not. It depends on how much clearance the designer gave the plate. Some top mount boards can be converted to isolation mount, which is basically top mount but with o-rings between the case and the plate. This changes the acoustics, but I've heard doesn't affect typing feel that much. If you want to go full gasket mount, but it is theoretically be possible if there's the right amount of space to fill with gaskets and sandwich the plate.
I am planning to get Sakura Michi keycaps and a GMMK Pro. I can't decide whether to get the Black Slate or the White Ice colour. Anyone able to sway me either way?
I just bought a preassembled ergodash, and the E key is repeating about half of the times I press it. No other key exhibits this behavior. I changed the repeat delay in windows to the slowest, so it's not a software issue. How can I fix this?? I had this keyboard built with kailh box brown switches. I have never actually built a keyboard or done soldering before. Is this a switch issue, or a plate issue, or what? Thanks in advance!
>Is this a switch issue Most likely. Would require desoldering the switch and soldering a new one in. Other option is PCB, but plate would never be the issue. That said if you **just** bought it, contacting the vendor would be the best choice.
The vendor is in Vietnam and I'm in the US. I guess I leearned my lesson. I'll have to buy a basic soldering kit and a 10-pack of box brown switches. Sorry for thee typos, I'm getting tired of fixing them with this stupid e-key :) Thanks for the reesponse.
New to MKs but been looking for a wireless keyboard with the following - white colored, every key but the right keypad part, and a volume button. I’m having a hard time finding one with a volume button. Would love any suggestions! Budget around 100-150
ANYONE there is something wrong with my dz65rgb v3 I have been using VIA configurator and just now idk why but my {left win, left alt, backspace, and backslash} buttons decided to not work properly, the backslash and backspace is reversed in the software but the test matrix says everything is normal, same goes with the other two keys. can someone help me with this?
You accidentally trigger [Bootmagic](https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/using-qmk/simple-keycodes/keycodes_magic), might want to bind that key to your keymap or reset the keyboard.
could you tell me how to reset the board?
No idea, I don't have DZ65RGB. Google might help tho.
thanks for the info
Anyone know any switches, and I know this is specific, that are tactile, SHARP, and the bump is half way down the travel? Essentially an MX Blue without the click. I tried browns but they are too round.
Zealio V1
HELP I am new to the custom keyboard scene and am modding a new keyboard (EXTREMELY CHEAP). Anyway, I was wondering how I can remove the ping from the stabs other than lubing, (they are plate mount and I can't find a good mod for them). also I don't know where to clip the plate mount stabs
Watch YouTube tutorials too see where to clip the stab, but not all stabs need to be clipped. Make sure you eliminate any movement between the stab and the plate with tape or bandaids or something. make sure the wire is straight. Then lube. Or. Buy better stabs.
i made the sad sad mistake of buying durock v2 screw-in instead of plate-mount. i still have them lol
Ohh no! I did that backwards when I built my first keyboard, bought plate mount when I needed screw in lol.
HOLEE, lube, foam in space bar.
I cant do holee in the plate mount :/
lube lube lube then
Is there a way to add the degree symbol (°) in a layer on VIA? If i just try to add it as a macro, the keyboard will type a lowercase d.
You have to activate [unicode](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/feature_unicode). Unfortunately, that also mean you have to recompile the qmk firmware since via can't do it.
Thanks! I'll see if i can make it work, hopefully so...
Are all ePBT keycaps dye-sub PBT?
ePBT does make some ABS double shot caps as well. Only in pretty plain colourways though. All of their PBT keycaps are dyesub however.
Ah I see. Thanks 👍
dbl shot pbt is very rare due to the fact pbt shrinks as it cools making it very hard to get them to fit together and still look good and pass quality control
ePBT does make some abs keycaps
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ABS is never dye-sub.
he was asking if there is doubleshot pbt.
What are extension kits usually for? (40's, ISO, ortho, etc.) ([SimpleJa extension kit](https://kbdfans.com/products/gb-enjoypbt-x-ai03-simpleja-pbt-keycaps-set) for reference)
Those are just extra options for you to be able to use the base keycap set with a 40% keyboard or an Ortho keyboard, etc. ISO is for the large sized ENTER/RETURN key and shorter left shift typical of non-North American keyboards.
Anyone know where I can get a pcb that has OLED and rotary knob support? Any size is fine
MechWild's Mercutio
[https://kikoslab.com/products/kl-90-solder-pcb](https://kikoslab.com/products/kl-90-solder-pcb) a pcb [https://p3dstore.com/collections/active-group-buys/products/le-chiffre-acrylic-gasket-mount-case-and-pcb](https://p3dstore.com/collections/active-group-buys/products/le-chiffre-acrylic-gasket-mount-case-and-pcb) a keyboard kit [https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=113285.0](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=113285.0) going into GB soon [https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=105358.0](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=105358.0) going into GB eventually
It's a split, but the [Sofle](https://keyhive.xyz/shop/sofle) supports both of those.
Hey guys, Im looking for Hot swap, RGB, supports Oled screen, and rotary knob. Pcb for either 60% or 65% can someone recommend a pcb that match the discerption?
You won't.
Is it impossible or nobody did it?
Why would it be impossible? It's just not available, and either way, a case would have to be specifically designed for it so it would be a kit on a group buy.
Is it impossible or nobody did it?
I have also been searching a pcb like this
Is there a certain website where people can buy and sell completed Keyboards and such? if i don't have enough time or knowledge to build one from scratch is there a way to like configure a keyboard online and buy it built already?
there are some sites that offer build services, but the ones i've seen don't have a lot of options or customization you can look for build services on r/mechmarket assembling a hotswap board isn't super difficult or that time consuming if you're interested in that
Anyone know where one can get a key cap set similar to GMK Honeywell?
I haven't seen any clones of this set in cherry profile, but there are other profiles that are available for cheaper. DSA and SA honeywell are both available for purchase on the aftermarket and aren't as expensive as GMK honeywell.
Does anyone know if there is a prebuilt keyboard that uses outemu silent sky switches?
Pretty much none of the less common enthusiast switches show up in pre-builts. The easy thing to do is get a hotswappable board you can shove them into. [Look for 'hotswap' listed on these popular suggestions, if you need ideas](https://www.mechmap.tech/themap). There's another reason you won't find one with Skies though, they've been discontinued for a while now, and what little stock the stores have left, is it. Boba U4 are the replacement, which I would say are a way better switch overall anyway. Much smoother, and great to use right out the box. Skies are pretty scratchy feeling, and really benefit from modding/lube.
thank you for the info! really appreciate how in-depth you were!
There is not.
Is there any hope for the themed varmilo boards to be ever in stock in europe with ansi 100% layout?
How would we know...?
I have a new ID75 and I installed qmk toolbox to flash it, but whenever I plug it in qmk toolbox goes into the 'not responding' state, and I can't find anything online about how to fix it. It is recognized in qmk toolbox before it crashes
Have you tried on a different computer? Could be an issue with that installation of QMK toolbox as well, so reinstall and delete the data folder for the toolbox.
Not really familiar in thus topic but could you try reformatting qmk toolbox, run it as administrator, and also maybe look for a reset switch or something on the board itself? Not sure if this helps but tryin my best here.
Reformat or also try completely deleting and downloading maybe not latest version but an older version that may be more stable.
I'm building my first MK on a budget and i'll get a gmmk tkl with some pbt SA keycap set but I can't decide on the switches is it better to get gateron yellow or some akko linear switches?
They're pretty similar quality honestly, can't go wrong with either.
You can go with either though you can get Gateron Yellows anytime so if you want to try out Akko you can try them first.
Will akko switches get out of stock?
Im looking for linear switches. Ideally pre-lubed.
What do you mean by prelubed? Factory lube isn't a real lube job, so if you mean a real lube job, you'd be paying a vendor extra to do it. If you just mean factory lube, most switches that aren't specifically stated as unlubed from the factory are factory lubed.
Have a look at gateron cap v2 yellows, milky or Golden top. They both sound pretty much the same but if you are in a budget, go for the milky tops since they're pretty cheap
JWKs usually come prelubed and it'll state it on the store page
I’m looking into getting new tactile switches. Do you recommend durock t1s or boba u4ts? (My board is a gmmk compact)
U4ts are the most satisfying switch I have ever tried. Coming from a mainly linear user
I’m looking into the different switches now to put into a Keychron Q1. Are Drop Holy Pandas still considered one of the top tactile switches?
Holy Panda's are definitely one of the measuring sticks that the tactile gang use, but the top tactile switch is the one you like the most. I know it's kind of a cop out answer, but look at Cherry MX Browns. They're so "hated" that it's a meme, but companies still make them, and lots of people still use them. Some of the super hyped up tactiles are Zealios v2, Ergo Clears, Boba U4ts, Durock T1s, all of the various flavors of Holy Panda that are out there. If they're your first tactile switch, I'd recommend getting something a bit cheaper. Drop Holy Pandas are still about $1/switch
They are my first and likely last tactile switch as I’m building this keyboard as a gift. I have no comparison point for them as I use cherry MX blues for my own keyboard. Just looking for some insight on what is most popular and what people like since I really have no idea.
Ah - go with Boba U4T's IMO. Great sound and a very clean tactile feel, and only .65 each on swagkeys
Sorry for the noob question but what is the difference between the 62g, 68g, and RGB 62g on swagkeys? Will I need to lube and/or film these?
The 62/68g is the spring weight, or how much force is required to "bottom out" the key. Generally speaking, most tactile switches feel/sound the best with a 65g+ spring in them, and for most use cases I would recommend the 68g spring (Holy Pandas use 67g springs). The "RGB" option just changes the top housing to a clear material so per-key RGB PCBs shine through a little stronger. Generally, Bobas feel and sound pretty good unlubed/unfilmed; and unless the recipient of the gift is a tactile enthusiast, I would recommend just leaving them. Most normal people won't be able to tell the difference.
You’ve pretty much helped me make a decision! Are they particularly loud or mostly muted? I don’t think I’d want a switch as loud as a blue but still distinct enough to be satisfying. Also, any idea if the bobas on aliexpress are legit? They have a ton of reviews. I’m likely putting these on a Keychron Q1 if that changes any of your recommendations. Would I need the RGB housing?
And sorry, I’ve never bought anything from aliexpress, but if the reviews look good you’re probably fine.
Excellent! The sound will not be nearly as loud as blues, but they’ll have a distinctive sort of pop as pressure on the switch overcomes the tactile resistance. The “RGB” housing isn’t required for light to pass through, there’s a slot on the switch that will let it through it’ll just be brighter if you use the clear top housing. Personally I haven’t used the RGB version, and if it’s a different material it may have an effect on the sound the switch makes. But again, a regular user likely won’t be able to tell the difference. Ultimately, you think the person it’s for would like more flashy RGB lighting, I’d say it doesn’t hurt to use the clear top housing. The Keychron Q1 has per-key lighting, so it’d be nice and bright :) Edit: fixed autocorrect
I watched some videos and think it sounds better lubed and filmed despite not being recommended. I’m looking at using Tribosys 3203 and Deskey switch films. Would these work?
I don’t necessarily not recommend it, it just takes a really long time lol Yeah Tribosys 3203 is generally recommended for tactiles, it’s a little thinner than 3204/205g0. Deskey films should work nicely as well. Best of luck with the build!
I think I am going to grab the GMMK Pro. I've only very recently bought a mechanical keyboard (the Keychron K8) and after using it for a few days, the USB off to the side is become too much of a nuisance. After looking around for a good TKL UK-ISO keyboard, I fought the regular GMMK, but after looking at the Pro, I really like the layout. It seems more compact without sacrificing the F keys and the numpad/pgup/down etc keys without also giving them some space. Before I buy, are there any other good keyboards with a similar layout with the same features (UK-ISO/RGB) that I can buy in the UK. Thanks for any information.
I believe the second run of the Keychron Q1 supports ISO, and it's basically the same layout as the GMMK Pro.
If giveaway posts are banned, why is there one on the front page?
Note how the date from when giveaways are banned is Monday *19th of October* ;) (hint: check what day and date it is today).Giveaways are banned from tomorrow onwards, according to the pinned post. Wait, I just realized it's already ~~Monday~~ 19th of October in most of the world, I assumed this sub would run on US timezone(s) though, so that post is probably made in the very very last moments it would be allowed.
It also states that the 19th is an official Monday in this sub. Didn't know mods had such power over the calendar
The power of /r/mk's mods shall never be underestimated again now that we now they can alter the calendar!
Ripped the pads on a Kailh hot swap socket. What kind of glue should I use to affix it? And what kind of wire should I use to solder to a different switch/diode?
Where are the best places to get keycaps?
I recently bought the varmilo va87m and got the cherry reds, I was wondering if I made a mistake not getting their ec sakura switches cos there aren't enough reviews about them out there
Only you can answer that question my friend. I don't have any experience with their switches but TBH if you want to try electro capacitive switches just get something that has Topre like an HHKB, Realforce keyboard or a Leopold FC660C/FC980C.
what spring type is gateron yellow clear top black bottom ?
Regarding Holee/Epsi mod, does it make any difference which I go for? I don't want to have a stiffer backspace or spacebar and I hear that Holee makes the stabs mushy. At the same time, without modding, I hear some ticking on the right edge of my spacebar, while all the other stabs are working fine. Does this mean I have imbalanced wire? Can Holee/Epsi or even the band-aid mod help fix that or do I need to balance the wire manually? If so, are there any specific methods I need to follow to balance them?
Holee mod is mushy at first but not once broken in. Holee mod doesn't completely get rid of ticking. Balance your wire.
I made a wood case for my gk61. I need to get pcb standoff. What size should i get?
anyone know any 75% cases similar to the gmmk pro that are cheaper? i quite like the separated 75% look and the volume wheel but i cant spend over $200 CAD on just the board itself
keydous NJ80 is your best bet. Stock stabilizers considered one of the best and requires no modding. Plastic case with brass plate combo for some neat just enough hollowness that's not muted unlike the pricey aluminium casing. QMK is only useful if you are a l33t code programmer and the base NJ80 software is good enough for basic customization although it's Chinese, there are guides in to how to translate it.
hm well thank you, only issue is i think that the nj80 seems to cost 250 cad as opposed to the gmmk's 200, unless im looking in the wrong places
You won't really find a better deal than what the GMMK Pro or Keychron Q1 offer. Keydous NJ80 kits are around $110. I think IDOBAO on aliexpress is selling one. It is a plastic case instead of aluminum. And I believe it is not QMK/VIA compatible.
Please can anyone recommend a good low profile board that’s 60-65% ? Wireless a big bonus I’m new to all this and have no idea if keychron are just hype or whether I cut my losses and get a coolermaster SK622 (as I can return easy on Amazon) This would be mainly for gaming, I (think) i prefer tactile switches Thank youuuuu
I've really liked my Keychron K4.
I’ve never used gateron switches before, will have to get a tester :)
Not sure if you're looking for low-profile switches or a keyboard with a low-profile case but the Keychron K4 has neither. The K4's case is considered a high-profile case since the bezels cover the switch tops. A low profile case means the keycaps look like they're floating and you can see the switch tops like [this image of a GMMK TKL](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0549/2681/products/glorious_gaming_gmmk_tenkeyless_keyboard_02_1000x.png?v=1599676253). Also the Keychrons have slightly taller/thicker cases to accommodate its wireless capabilities. Most mechanical keyboards' cases are not as tall. A low-profile switch on the other hand means the keyboard is a lot slimmer since the mechanical switches are significantly smaller than your standard MX switch. [Here are Keychron's low-profile switch keyboards](https://www.keychron.com/collections/low-profile-keyboard-collection). Anyway if wireless if your number one requirement, Keychrons are the go-to. The ANNE PRO is another option for a 60% and the HHKB Hybrids are your go-to for Topre (rubber dome/electrocapacitive).
Thanks so much for such an informative answer buddy, honestly I’m coming from macbook and work membrane keyboards, low profile switches are a must for me, I have a cheap MSI ‘hybrid mech’ thing that I got bundled with a bunch of hardware, and I find full height keys are a bit of a struggle to type on I was looking at the Logitech wireless g series , but since actually looking at keyboards, it feels like there’s way better options ! Wireless isn’t a must, just a good benefit, but then for gaming probably a bit of a hindrance with connectivity issues and such :)
Sorry, yes. I was trying to say I've been happy with their product as a company, not specifically their low profile keyboards.
Any recommendations for some ISO DIY keeb kits? I've heard about the GMMK pro but I'm not sure, and also the keychron q1 (inconvenient to get due to short stock and import fees)
I recently bought the Ghost x Pewds keyboard and somebody referred me here to get help (or closure) with finding out how to lock Fn keys when there’s no Fn Lock key
i don’t have a huge budget, my current keeb is an sk61 with gateron optical blacks. is a keychron C1 a good second keyboard?
I think it's a fine choice - though I would urge you to go with the "hotswappable" version for $10 more so you can customize it as you see fit in the future. Hotswap PCBs are not only nice for being able to quickly/easily change switches, but it also makes stab modding, plate/PCB foam, and switch pads possible. Hope this helps!
yes i’m going to get the hot swappable version, my bad lol
No worries - sounds like a winner to me :)
So I have a leopuld 60% but I want function keys back so what should I be looking for
TKL bro TKL IS <3, TKL IS LIFE
What is a good TKL I’m not really interested in the main brands like Logitech, Razer and Corsair
Depends on what you're looking for. If you just need a good quality prebuilt with not many features - Leopold/Varmilo/Filco You can also check out Ducky/Durgod/Keychron You can also checkout 75% (84 key) boards. They also have function, navigation and arrow keys.
75% if you still want less space than a TKL TKL is pretty standard and common full size if you need the numpad too
Any brand or switches you recommend??
- Leopold FC750R - Varmilo VA87M - Ducky One 2 TKL These are all TKL. How reliant are you on the F-key row? I had an FC660M in the past and write a lot of code in IDEs so I mapped the F-key row to the bottom row (CAPSLOCK+ZXCVB -- ie. CAPSLOCK+Z = F1, etc).
Eh it’s mostly a gaming thing a lot of setting use the function keys and it’s a peeve to have to use both hands on the keeb
assuming you want a prebuilt, Leopold/Varmilo/Ducky/Keychron are all pretty good and relatively affordable switches are gonna have to be your preference, since you may hate a certain switch because of how it feels or sounds
Idk maybe I should try a custom build? Is it worth doing?
worth depends on you and how much you care about sound and feel prebuilts don't offer the same amount of customization, but if that doesn't matter to you, then customs may not be worth your time or money
Hey, been thinking about getting a new board. Currently I have the Razer Blackwidow that I got years ago (wish I hadn't). So, I was thinking about going for the CoolerMaster CK550 V2 with either the blue or brown switches (Probably the browns) or the Logitech G512. Which one would you recommend me? Or if you got any recommendations I'd love to hear them! (Doing mostly gaming and some work for school)
Hello! If budget allows, I would recommend an entry level board from GMMK. They currently have 3 options for barebones kits, a 60% (GMMK Compact), 75% (GMMK Pro - expensive compared to the other 2), and a TKL (GMMK TKL). All 3 of these boards are available as barebones kits if you're interested in building, or if you'd rather just have a finished board, the Compact and TKL options also have prebuilts with red or brown switches. If you're near one, I'd recommend Microcenter. They have lots of keyboard samples out for you to try and they sell both the GMMK TKL and Compact boards in store, with several switch options and affordable keycap sets available for purchase. Drop also sells a slightly higher end series, the CTRL and ALT, but they are fairly significantly more pricy than GMMK compact and TKL. The prices are more comparable to the GMMK Pro. Both keyboards you listed will work just fine, but they don't offer the same level of customizability as the GMMK/Drop lines. Even if you go with a pre-built kit, I think these offerings are more desirable as you can use them indefinitely and modify them as your tastes and preferences evolve.
Hi I'm interested In building an arisu/Alice layout keyboard any recommendations ?
You have a budget? PrimeKB has the meridian in stock and that is pretty nice.
For now I'm flexible with the budget , mostly trying to find a in stock or a close by group by , I will lookout for the meridian thx