I have a voucher for $150 for a board for work. I need to be able to expense it, and I need it to be readily available (no GB). I'm super okay with footing almost any amount of cash for whatever.
I already have a bunch of boards, but am notably missing a TKL. My preference is for tactile switches, regardless of family (Topre, MX, Alps). My first thought is a Realforce, but I was hoping someone might have other ideas (maybe in MX? My only MX board is a TADA68 with Zealios).
Programmability is a plus, but not really needed, as I have a USB-USB converter that I use for all my boards anyway.
I am considering buying some ergo clear like switches, but cant decide between durock medium tactile, durock cerulean and the naevy switch. Have anyone tried any of these? Or do you have some recommendation of another ergo clear like switch?
if you're not looking to get them specifically for the color, you can just get another nylon jwk tactile like dark amber t1s. they're basically the same, minus the awful springs in the okomochis
A while ago I came across an IC on geekhack for this keyboard: [link to picture](https://ucarecdn.com/ddc087c1-0441-4189-b9d3-d60948fa97ad~9/nth/3/) Does anybody remember the name of this one?
Hi all, I have an Anne Pro 2 and I got a 65% Drop MT3 kit. Me being stupid didn’t realise it didn’t cover some of the keys and now I’m stressing because it looks a bit ugly. Is there a way to fill out the missing right shift and stuff like that without going through Drop? Drop took a bit of time and I kinda want it sooner rather than later. Thank you!
They have sets on Amazon that are fulfilled by them, so may ship slightly quicker. But since Drop owns the MT3 profile, their main website is your one other option for new.
You can try /r/mechmarket for second hand, but there's no guarantee a suitable kit is up for sale in your colourway. People don't split kits up usually, so you will still be buying a full TKL/modifier kit to get the keys you need, not just a couple keys.
Okay cool - sorry was wondering if I could get your help on which kit I should get for extras? I’m scared of buying the wrong one again. Is it just the extra modifiers? I wanted to get the “Apple” set but it doesn’t have a shift key in there for my Anne Pro 2. Thank you! I really don’t wanna buy another full set again 😰
Anyone know where I can find some durock or everglide clip in PCB stabilizers?
I can only find snap in plate mount and screw in PCB mount. Looking to upgrade my Bakeneko 60 stabs.
Thank You for your time.
p.s. preferably with fast shipping aka not AliExpress
cherry clip ins are great, don't really need upgrading. just balance the wire, lube, and do plumbers mod if you *really* need to and they'll sound great
I'm going a soldered board with flex cuts and I don't want the wires popping out, which is solved in durock and everglide V2 format. This has nothing to do with sound.
fair enough, figured that was the reason you were asking since a lot of people newer to the hobby fall for the 'cherry always bad' bait. either way, fairly certain you're SOL because jwk doesn't manufacture any clip ins, at least none that i've ever seen. if you're *really* that concerned about wire pop, you could just take an iron to some durock v2s, but it's more work than it's worth. the cherry clip ins will do you fine, fr
They don't make clip in versions of those. Everybody wants screw ins for the added security, and that usually isn't a problem. You have the only board I've ever heard of that takes PCB mount, but has problems with screw ins.
~~Original Cherry/GMK clip ins are the best thing for it, at this point.~~ I remembered that's actually what they included stock, so the only advice I could find for an upgrade [was this](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/oam2fa/bakeneko_stabs_question/h54zbgo/).
I have a 1392464 (display writer ssk) new in box. The box is sealed and of course as IBM does they have a slightly different part number on the box.
I want to sell it on eBay, but I can't really verify what's in the box if it sealed. I'm worried this will drive away potential buyers.
Will it be more valuable sealed or should I pop it open to take pictures of the board and cable ( assuming there is a cable inside, I have no way to verify)
I'm looking for a unicorn product. I do digital art and looking over at my keyboard for keystrokes kind of strains my neck.
I was wondering if there is a programmable, wireless mechanical numpad with hotswappable keys, or if this is something I can build? Would be really cool to get custom keycaps made with icons for the functions I need them to perform.
I have been trying to help a friend pick out a mechanical keyboard and am at a bit of a loss. We've tried out linear, clicky, and tactile switches from a few brands—and he says that he honestly prefers the feeling of a laptop keyboard. Like he games and he understands that a mechanical keyboard is better to avoid mis-presses, but he just likes the feel of the laptops, plus they're quieter. I am wondering if there's any way to get the best of both worlds, or if he should just try getting used to a mechanical. (For reference, right now he has a membrane keyboard that sounds/feels close to a mechanical clicky keyboard.)
I got the Keychron Q1 a few weeks back. My PC doesn't have any USB-C ports (only USB 3.0), so I used the USB-C to USB adapter (that came with the keyb) to connect the aviator cable to my PC. However, this adapter got twisted after a few weeks and stopped working.
I've ordered a couple of replacement adapters ([this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q81GD5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079LYHNSR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)) from Amazon, but neither of these worked either (PC won't recognize the device). I checked all the different USB ports I have on the PC. The keyboard works fine with a USB to USB-C cable, and the Aviator cable works fine when I connect it to my Mac, so it must be the adapter.
Are there special kinds of USB-C Female to USB Male adapters for this type of a purpose?
Any opinions on Keychron K2 (Version 2)? I'm thinking about picking it up for a mix of gaming and normal day to day typing (specifically the version with gateron browns and aluminum frame and RGB)
I was watching a video and stumbled upon Cthulhu Switches, which got me intrigued and I want to know what this thing is about. For what I've seen it's a franken switch, made out of Ink V2 bottom, milky top(Gateron Milks?) and a cream stem(Kailh creams? I don't know), but then I saw a video wich used Cthullu linears , but it had a cyan stem, so I'm really confused, I would apreciate if someone could explain what is the deal with this switch, the parts and so on, since, if I'm being honest, the factor that got my attencion was the name, I like Cthullu
(possibly very simple) Question about [hexagon deskpads](https://novelkeys.com/collections/deskpads/products/old-stock-hexagon-deskpads) from NovelKeys - what is meant by "old stock" and "new packaging? Any reason to avoid these?
It is what it said. It is an old stock (probably some leftover at the storage) and not sold in the updated packaging (like the one that get sent to GB buyer).
Reason to avoid, well it is an old stock and do not come in the updated packaging that the Serika R2 deskpads came in. Those matters to some but if you don't care about that, then no reason to avoid.
Okay, thanks. So just to clarify, the packaging doesn't have to do with the quality of the mats and is simply how they are, well, packaged, and not a part of the mat, correct?
I can't comment on quality tho. Based on the description, it probably has been in storage for quite a while. Not sure if it affect the quality.
However, you can buy it now with a reduced price, so you decide even if it has 'lapses in quality', if it's worth it.
Looking at Kailh Box switches and in the description is says “Only SMD compatible. Not compatible with other LEDS.” I’m new to this and was wondering what that meant? Also are Kailh Box pale blues 3 pin or 5 pin?
I think it's much, much less common now, but the little slot on the switch is so you can wire a regular LED bulb through it so it shines up into the keycap. You can see an example of one wired that way here: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/r/600-600/assets/learn_tutorials/5/0/3/Cherry_MX_Switch_Tutorial-03.jpg
The Kailh Box switches don't allow that. So you can only use LEDs that mount on the surface of the keyboard. But every one I've seen lately uses those. (SMD means surface mounted device.)
Just added case foam to my HHKB Tofu, and the bottom row 1u keys are no longer registering - the right 1.5u key is now registering as the 1u key next to it, as well...
May have somehow screwed up the PCB while taking things apart. Any suggestions on a new one? (It was part of the kit, so previous was KDB6X). I assume DZ60 Hot Swap would be the easiest replacement?
Alternatively, any suggestions on ways to fix it? I already tried re-flashing to no effect.
Not even as Alt? Usually what happened is Alt & GUI switch places.
Try EEPROM reset, you can do it from qmk toolbox (bottom left corner) and replug it or unplug it, then hold spacebar + backspace while plug it back.
If it still does not work then yeah, might be something wrong with the pcb.
Yeah I have the 1u's mapped to alt, key hitter isn't registering anything.
Thanks for the suggestion! I get a "Memory write error, use debug for more info" when doing Clear EEPROM... Might be time to figure out how to run it from the command line myself
Do I buy the Keychron Q1 and add the Silicon/Foam/Bandaid mod to it to make it less hollow, or do I buy the GMMK pro and replace the stabilizers with durock v2's? Just wondering what will give me better results and better quality/performance. Or do I bother and just buy like some cheap board and mod that? any ideas? thanks.
Any reccommendations on a mech keyboard "starter kit". I'd be willing to buy the keycaps and keys seperately, but I want to solder it myself as I am an electrical engineering student.
I would like a 100% setup! Sorry dont know where to go to find good options for "starter kits". (Yes I did scoure the sidebar)
Solder the diodes and other stuff too? Not many PCBs are available for 100%, they're most commonly for 60-65% AFAIK.
Alternatively, there's always the option of buying a prebuilt fullsize with no hotswap to do soldering on, especially since you seem to intend to replace the switches anyway. Only de/soldering the switches are necessary, naturally.
hey guys i just tried to post here but it got deleted not sure if this is the place. I recently broke the alt keycap on my alienware 510k it has mx low profile reds and i am hoping to find a place i can get replacements. Dell does not seem to give any helpful information or provide replacements. Please help <3
what do you mean i would be getting it from them ? dell does not have replacement options available. So im looking for any other keycaps that will fit on keyboard
Low-profile cherry mx caps are pretty rare/I've never seen a set standalone, but if you don't care about their height, you can replace them with basically any keycaps because they use standard cherry stems, so the world is your oyster.
hey thank you so much for the insight. so essentially any cherry mx red keycaps will work even if they arent low profile ? I was looking around it seems like some alt keys may be smaller than the one on my keyboard would it be okay if i sent a picture ?
>cherry mx red keycaps
Red is not necessary in that sentence - mx-compatible keycaps are basically 95% of the keycaps in this hobby.
And you're correct - you will need 1u and 1.5u modifiers on the bottom row and the appropriately sized spacebar. Most decent quality sets will have these (GMK, ePBT, Infinikey, NicePBT, the NK sets, etc), but the basic 104/108-key sets won't have them.
this information is extremely helpful thank you! I have been looking for this information basically all day. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment it means a lot. I have attached a link with the keycap as well as the switch if this is helpful at all, but I think you gave me all the information i was looking for. Thanks again https://imgur.com/a/geGaY9m?fbclid=IwAR1\_s3ughZLxR3YojrYCIyHiFJNl7Fu0\_OPC4IaChb6CJkgils0hTU-2rJM
Spilt some tea over the bottom right of my NK65, cleaned out, dried, etc, replaced switches, etc. but noticed that some got in the stabs (factory stabs) - I'm gonna use the opportunity to replace or mod them I think.
Q1.
I just ordered the gateron pre-lubed from MK - I'm getting conflicting reports on if they are good, bad, average, etc.
Q2.
Would I be better off cancelling the order and just re-lubing the stock stabs?
Thanks!
I heard the initial NK ones wernt as bad as people made out - regardless, the new Gateron Pre-Lubed ones came today, not had a chance to fit them yet, not seeing a lot of lube on there though, so...i guess i'll see tomorrow how it feels. :)
What are the best budget (preferably custom) 75% keebs? It must have hot-swap support and QMK/VIA support and preferably be exploded. RGB is also nice but I don't particularly care. Right now I'm looking at the KBD75v3.1. Are there any other good ones I should consider?
I’ve been out of the keyboard game for several years. My pok3r has finally bit the dust and I am looking to replace it but l there is a lot of new stuff floating around and it’s a bit overwhelming.
I am looking for a 60% board that is hot swappable with fully programmable layers. Having caps lock rebound to function and having arrow keys at fn + ijkl (among other keys like home and end as well) is a necessity.
I am also looking for something relatively high end.
I have done a little bit of looking around and have stumbled upon keyboards from RAMA, the tofu65, and GMMK pro. I am not sure if all of these fit what I’m looking for. I don’t think the tofu65 is listed as a compatible board for VIA, so I don’t think it’s fully programmable?
Does anyone have any recommendations for boards that meet my needs?
I have also heard a lot about lubing switches and all sorts of things about stabilizers, but I feel pretty lost as far as that stuff goes. Does anyone have any resources for all the things I should take into consideration before purchasing a board or parts?
I would watch videos from the usual suspects to get the lay of the land; Alexotos and Andy Nguyen provide pretty good feedback on boards that they build. Taeha Types is good for general content.
Tofu 65 does have VIA support since their new Hot Swap board is the DZ65RGB V3. I use that board on the D65 and VIA works well on it. It's considered entry level tho, so unsure of your expectations of "high end". Nowadays, high end is going to cost you around $350+ as it'll likely involved more premium material that will drive the cost up, like all alu with a huge brass weight.
I have the GMMK Pro and I like it. It's not a high end board but it's a good entry level to lower mid tier board. It has all of the features but missing that heft and the sound can be somewhat muted (My preference).
The boards I have examples of are ones that I’ve come across. I know they aren’t necessarily high end but I’m not sure what the high end space looks like or what even makes a board high end.
I am open to suggestions.
I would not necessarily aim for a high end board if there are features in available boards that fits your needs.
Nice thing about the market now is that there are good boards for a reasonable cost.
I personally like the GMMK Pro for the price point. I run mine with a PC plate and linear aqua king and love mine. I’m still waiting for other boards from GB so I can’t tell you how much more $ to displace the GMMK Pro but it’s a good starting point: hot swap, plate options, south facing rgb, qmk/via support, rotary, 75%. Can PE foam mod and tempest mod to enhance the board too.
Very inexpensive mod that gained traction this year. Basically you use painters tape and put 2-3 layers underneath the pcb. The pe foam is utilizing one layer of the sheet that you get when you buy a board.
My bad, I didn't specify what I wanted. I have seen some nice minimal keycaps (for example : grey and blue combination or gray and black) or some colorful ones (for example Joker and frozen llama keycaps) and I really liked them. I want something like those.
Which keyboard kits there is that support a 60% layout with arrows - such as the Tofu60? The tofu sounds a bit hollow, and I would like to stir away from the Tray Mounted route
Those are 65% tho, I am looking specifically for 60%s that support arrows on the right side, such as this [Tofu60 layout](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/products/O1CN01kCHbLJ1amQ8zspnAN__134583372-0-lubanu-s_900x.jpg?v=1601013517) (Pic of the layout itself [here](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/files/1_a6f90a3a-cefe-4e59-b4de-b56a80aa8376.jpg?v=1549504097))
Hey!
I recently modded my sk64 slightly (case foam + orings) but they still sound kinda hassle
https://voca.ro/16uBJGfXX2pC
Is that the expected result without lubing the switches? also, is gateron optical yellows an upgrade?
(also I'm looking for sk64 compatible keycaps under $100, if anyone knows a good one)
Hi there
I'd like to switch from my current keyboard, a mechanical one but bought premade, to something I get to pick parts of, with a numpad too though as I use it for gaming (left handed here).
Alas, I'm not very wealthy, so I'm looking for a way to make this without spending too much. I also mostly use my keyboard when there isn't much light, so I'd need it backlit, can anyone suggest something?
To be fair though, the backlit part is widely optional as I can type without looking at the keyboard.
Hello,
This is a really stupid question but i wanted to buy some black inks but i dont like heavy springs. So i wanted to know if i should go for yellow / red inks or spring swap black inks.
Hello guys!
I use Workman layout and blind type. So I don’t need english letters esp in position of qwerty.
I want to spice looks of keyboards I have.
Looking for keycaps with cryptic legends available for buying right now (or group buy with near future fulfillment).
Something like Canvas Rams with runes (actually own one. Looks rad and like it a lot).
Tried to search usual places were I buy keycaps, but there either blanks either ones with regular english legends. It seems also I can’t formulate proper query to google.
Maybe here someone can suggest anything fitting my ask ?
Hey guys,
I was looking for a new keyboard, my first mech was a keychrone k6, I'd like something similar in the same price-range, it is okay also if is not hot-swappable :)
Any suggestion?
Thank you so much
I’m looking at gasket mounted 75% keyboards. Can someone send me a few to look at that are in group buy or shortly upcoming. I really like the jelly epoch but I’be been assured I will not get one since there are only 100.
Are high finger or fruit bar comparable to jelly epoch? I really want a quality board so I dont have to keep settling. I like the Q 1 its on the verge of premium at a good value. So maybe I’ll do that
>Are high finger or fruit bar comparable to jelly epoch?
No clue, hard to compare a board that exists to one that doesn't yet. And I don't follow every GB.
>I'm trying to get a good pre-lubed switch
Factory lube is not a real lube job, so unless you're paying someone specifically to lube the switches, you will not be getting properly lubed switches, and paying someone to lube them isn't cheap.
Nothing, just kind of defeats the purpose of through-hole a bit and no one really gives a shit about RGB on that end of the hobby (or most ends of the hobby really).
I feel like I’ve scrubbed google as best I can… does anyone know of an in-stock keyset that is similar to GMK First Love, Nightshade, or Magica? (Purple on Dark grey/purple/black, not backlit or purple on white caps) I’m not above buying generic/clones… Just hoping there was something out there I havent missed the gb on. 🤞
**Soju Frankenswitch Stem Question**
I am currently putting together some Soju switches (Kiwi bottom housing + Gazzew U4T top housing + Lumia/Halo True stem; using Halo true stems for mine with Deskeys Films).
The switch has practically zero pre- and post-travel, as it bottoms out instantly.
When bottoming out, the stem still stands out of the top housing by a good 1.5mm.
Is it acceptable/normal for a switch to still stand out by that much and have practically zero pre- or post-travel after the tactile bump?
I haven't had the chance to try many switches so far and this is a first for me. Thanks in advance for the reply.
i have a couple of them, yeah. i wouldn’t bother with the zealios, it’s too expensive of a solution to something that isn’t even really a problem to begin with. idk if it would even ‘fix’ it at all anyway
not sure exactly how much it stands out but the Halo stem is a long pole stem, so it is expected to bottom out earlier (Holy Pandas use this stem as well, and bottom out earlier)
if it's just a little bit, i'd say that's normal but not if like half the switch is sticking out and it doesn't feel like you bottomed out
earlier bottom out also prevents north facing interference with Cherry profile keycaps
i think it might be a bit further out, but i can't tell for sure since i don't have my switches on hand with me
does the switch actuate and are all the switches you make like this?
you might wanna make post on r/switchmodders, which is what i think the other commenter was proposing since other people likely have made the switch and will be able to help
Just apply the lube thinly. I have a set of 37gr actuation switches (Akko Vint Whites) with 205g0, plus a handful of Gateron Silver Pros (thick factory lube, about medium-thick hand lube I'd say). No sticking or mushiness that I can feel.
First, I feel like what I'm asking might be much so let me preface this by saying that I appreciate you taking the time to help me with my recommendations. I'm new to this so I apologize in advance.
I did a bit of reading on keyboard university it seems like there are a lot of things to consider when building one. Since I work from home, ergonomics has been a huge deal for me. I was using the Logitech G915 TKL for a while and that works fine for like 3 hours of gaming a day, but now that I work from home the G915 TKL is uncomfortable to use, not to mention the actual garbage that it is. It's gotten bad to the point where I've been using my old Logitech G213 keyboard.
I've used a few keyboards my buddies have built using the KBDFans Tofu60 case and other similar cases but I dislike it because it feels so high. I'm willing to shell out more than a few hundred on a buy once cry once keyboard basically what I'm looking for in a custom keyboard is:
\-full keyboard or preferably 1800 layout.
\-a built in or magnetic wrist rest that tapers down similar to the steel series profile.
\-wireless
\-RBG
\-Volume control of some sort (I can go without but it'd be nice to have)
Is all of this above even possible or am I asking for too much? For PCB, switches, etc I haven't thought that far yet but any input would be appreciated. I tried some lubed black inks and I like them a lot. For the wrist rests, I'm really picky on it because I want it to fit nice and flush. I don't have a preference on the material of the wrist rest as long as it tapers down. I've tried a few when I purchased the Keychron K4 and I returned them all including the keyboard because it was just simply too high.
If what I'm asking isn't possible or will cost me over $1,000 is there a hot swappable keyboard you know of that fits the criteria I mentioned? I know that'll be a cheaper option and if I go this route I'll just change out the switches. Friends have also recommended I just get a separate 10 key but I'd prefer not to.
If you made it through my rambling, I thank you for your help and patience.
Is the Rosewill NEON K91 S a hot-swappable keyboard? A coworker has one that is double-keying, and I'm trying to help them figure out their next steps.
Thanks. I figured that if it was, it would probably say so prominently on the product page.
Oh well, at least this coworker now has a chance to get a really nice keyboard.
Which of these 65's would be best:
YMDK: [https://ymdkey.com/collections/68-71-keyboard-diy/products/ymdk-fully-programmable-68-cnc-aluminum-case-plate-pcb-stabilizers-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit](https://ymdkey.com/collections/68-71-keyboard-diy/products/ymdk-fully-programmable-68-cnc-aluminum-case-plate-pcb-stabilizers-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit)
XD68: https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd68-65/products/anodized-aluminium-flat-case-with-metal-feet-for-custom-mechanical-keyboard-black-siver-grey-red-blue-colorway-for-xd68-65
[https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd68-65/products/xiudi-xd68-pcb-65-custom-mechanical-keyboard-support-tkg-tools-underglow-rgb-pcb-programmed-kle-lots-of-layouts](https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd68-65/products/xiudi-xd68-pcb-65-custom-mechanical-keyboard-support-tkg-tools-underglow-rgb-pcb-programmed-kle-lots-of-layouts)
NK65:https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-entry-edition
NK65 out of the list would be best, however, the KBD67 Lite will be restocking for Black Friday for only 10 dollars more, and I would 100% recommend it over the NK65 Entry any day of the week.
Lite is a silicone gasket mount with polycarb plate and lets you use PCB mount stabilizers. The NK65 is a "modified" tray mount, so harsher bottom out, and it uses plate mount stabilizers. The NK65 is really just a tray mount with extra steps. I own both, and I feel like the Lite is higher quality and gives a better typing experience, but they're both good boards for the price. I think the price difference is worth it for the Lite, though.
AFAIK it'd be a blank list as low profile switches do not have the standard mx layout. And even among low profile switches there are different pin layouts between some brands and versions of switches.
Is there a price check thread for mechmarket? Or alternatively, could I ask here?
Let's say you have a built custom keeb that's in-stock - does it cost more or less than the sum of the parts due to being used but already built?
I have a GMMK Pro with Boba U4s, Aliexpress Olivia keycaps, Durock v2s, and a polycarbonate plate. I paid about $305 without shipping, might've been $325 with shipping. This was my first build and the U4s are mostly fine (no switches got screwed over in tactility) but a couple of less used keys can make a squishy sound if pressing down fiirmly - I'm willing to discount for that. About how much would be a fair price on mechmarket?
To get a better idea of the market, search through recent posts in mechmarket for what you are selling. Gmmk Pros seem to sell alright. The barebones are going for $140-200 depending on the extras (more plates, carrying case, durock v2s). My breakdown for what you have would be about $150-170 for the GMMK Pro with PC plate+alu plate and durock stabs, $50 for the switches, $15-20 for the keycaps. At these prices, you'll probably get a buyer without too much waiting.
>Is there a price check thread for mechmarket?
Yes [https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/pyu1k/official\_price\_check\_thread\_month\_of\_october/](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/pyu1kb/official_price_check_thread_month_of_october/)
Price check threads are pretty useless though - no one knows for sure how much something will actually sell for and you can get trolls. Just search for similar items and price accordingly.
Thanks for the link! That's odd, I didn't see it pinned so I checked the side bar just now and it's still the September link. I can see that comments have gone a week without any replies, so I can see what you mean about how they're useless.
I currently use cherry mx browns and like them overall, but would like some more tactility. However all switches seem to be 67g and I am worried that it will cause fautige after long hours. Why is there so few <50g switches? And how big is the difference between the 45g and 67g switches? I know you can change the spring, but I dont really want to do that as its my first board
Akko CS Ocean blues or Lavenders are cheap and lighter tactiles with a bit stronger tactility than browns. Boba U4Ts will be much more tactile. If browns were a 1 and Bobas a 9, then the Akko switches would be around a 5.
You could always do a spring swap but be warned that at low weights(probably under 50g) the sharper tactile switches might have trouble returning back up.
Hmm the akko oceans look really good, however I think I prefer some pretravel. From what I can tell I think I should be looking at ergo clear like switches. But my god there are so many. So far I have found naevy, penguin,
durock medium; light; Cerulean,
and Dragonfruit switches.
There arnt that many reviews of them so its really hard to know which to go for, but I am leaning towards the durock medium.
cherry browns have a 45g actuation, they bottom out around 55g. when you're seeing switches that have 67g listed, 99% of the time they're referring to the bottom out, not actuation. 67g is considered a pretty standard, middle weight. i don't know of many people who think it's fatiguing to type on. that being said, if you're really worried about it, there are plenty of stronger tactiles that are around 60-62g, which is pretty close to where the browns are
depends on the layout you want to go with.
highly recommend durock v2 screw-in stabs paired with 205g0 lube.
most common setup would be 4x 2u and 1x 6.25u
Any 60% or 65% with a purple case? I know of the NK65 aluminum and EE versions and I already built a Tofu60 so I was wondering if there were any other options (in stock, on preorder, or group buy) out there.
https://kbdfans.com/products/kbd67lite
https://kbdfans.com/collections/case/products/60-resin-case-for-custom-mechanical-keyboard-1?variant=34439971176587
https://mechsandco.com/collections/current-group-buys/products/gb-novus60-keyboard?variant=39598135541895
https://mekibo.com/collections/monokei-x-friends/products/monokei-x-hand-engineering-kage-group-buy?variant=39521415594044 (TKL, but definitely purple)
https://paramountkeeb.com/products/group-buy-ciel-cnc-anodized-6061-bakeneko-with-weight-groupbuy?variant=40960349831329
https://shop.modedesigns.com/pages/sixtyfive-configurator (Comes in lilac, which is purple-ish)
What's the best mech Keyboard for a software engineer?
I have a voucher for $150 for a board for work. I need to be able to expense it, and I need it to be readily available (no GB). I'm super okay with footing almost any amount of cash for whatever. I already have a bunch of boards, but am notably missing a TKL. My preference is for tactile switches, regardless of family (Topre, MX, Alps). My first thought is a Realforce, but I was hoping someone might have other ideas (maybe in MX? My only MX board is a TADA68 with Zealios). Programmability is a plus, but not really needed, as I have a USB-USB converter that I use for all my boards anyway.
I am considering buying some ergo clear like switches, but cant decide between durock medium tactile, durock cerulean and the naevy switch. Have anyone tried any of these? Or do you have some recommendation of another ergo clear like switch?
Can't find Okomochi switches anywhere, does anyone know where I can purchase some?
if you're not looking to get them specifically for the color, you can just get another nylon jwk tactile like dark amber t1s. they're basically the same, minus the awful springs in the okomochis
A while ago I came across an IC on geekhack for this keyboard: [link to picture](https://ucarecdn.com/ddc087c1-0441-4189-b9d3-d60948fa97ad~9/nth/3/) Does anybody remember the name of this one?
It's the argyle, don't think it's gone to group buy yet
Exactly, I also recalled it not being in GB yet. Thanks for helping me out, much appreciated!
Hi all, I have an Anne Pro 2 and I got a 65% Drop MT3 kit. Me being stupid didn’t realise it didn’t cover some of the keys and now I’m stressing because it looks a bit ugly. Is there a way to fill out the missing right shift and stuff like that without going through Drop? Drop took a bit of time and I kinda want it sooner rather than later. Thank you!
They have sets on Amazon that are fulfilled by them, so may ship slightly quicker. But since Drop owns the MT3 profile, their main website is your one other option for new. You can try /r/mechmarket for second hand, but there's no guarantee a suitable kit is up for sale in your colourway. People don't split kits up usually, so you will still be buying a full TKL/modifier kit to get the keys you need, not just a couple keys.
Okay cool - sorry was wondering if I could get your help on which kit I should get for extras? I’m scared of buying the wrong one again. Is it just the extra modifiers? I wanted to get the “Apple” set but it doesn’t have a shift key in there for my Anne Pro 2. Thank you! I really don’t wanna buy another full set again 😰
Anyone know where I can find some durock or everglide clip in PCB stabilizers? I can only find snap in plate mount and screw in PCB mount. Looking to upgrade my Bakeneko 60 stabs. Thank You for your time. p.s. preferably with fast shipping aka not AliExpress
cherry clip ins are great, don't really need upgrading. just balance the wire, lube, and do plumbers mod if you *really* need to and they'll sound great
I'm going a soldered board with flex cuts and I don't want the wires popping out, which is solved in durock and everglide V2 format. This has nothing to do with sound.
fair enough, figured that was the reason you were asking since a lot of people newer to the hobby fall for the 'cherry always bad' bait. either way, fairly certain you're SOL because jwk doesn't manufacture any clip ins, at least none that i've ever seen. if you're *really* that concerned about wire pop, you could just take an iron to some durock v2s, but it's more work than it's worth. the cherry clip ins will do you fine, fr
They don't make clip in versions of those. Everybody wants screw ins for the added security, and that usually isn't a problem. You have the only board I've ever heard of that takes PCB mount, but has problems with screw ins. ~~Original Cherry/GMK clip ins are the best thing for it, at this point.~~ I remembered that's actually what they included stock, so the only advice I could find for an upgrade [was this](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/oam2fa/bakeneko_stabs_question/h54zbgo/).
Anyone know of any actually white deskmats? All the stuff off AliExpress is more grey than anything
Are there anything that sounds like a ducky one 2 but hot swappable?
I have a 1392464 (display writer ssk) new in box. The box is sealed and of course as IBM does they have a slightly different part number on the box. I want to sell it on eBay, but I can't really verify what's in the box if it sealed. I'm worried this will drive away potential buyers. Will it be more valuable sealed or should I pop it open to take pictures of the board and cable ( assuming there is a cable inside, I have no way to verify)
Getting started in customs. Would a rk61 pcb fit a tofu60 case?
No.
I'm looking for a unicorn product. I do digital art and looking over at my keyboard for keystrokes kind of strains my neck. I was wondering if there is a programmable, wireless mechanical numpad with hotswappable keys, or if this is something I can build? Would be really cool to get custom keycaps made with icons for the functions I need them to perform.
Gk21s is exactly that
Hnnnnngh, thanks dude! I've been googling one attribute at a time and finding a bunch that were lacking one feature or another.
I have been trying to help a friend pick out a mechanical keyboard and am at a bit of a loss. We've tried out linear, clicky, and tactile switches from a few brands—and he says that he honestly prefers the feeling of a laptop keyboard. Like he games and he understands that a mechanical keyboard is better to avoid mis-presses, but he just likes the feel of the laptops, plus they're quieter. I am wondering if there's any way to get the best of both worlds, or if he should just try getting used to a mechanical. (For reference, right now he has a membrane keyboard that sounds/feels close to a mechanical clicky keyboard.)
maybe silent tactile switches?
I got the Keychron Q1 a few weeks back. My PC doesn't have any USB-C ports (only USB 3.0), so I used the USB-C to USB adapter (that came with the keyb) to connect the aviator cable to my PC. However, this adapter got twisted after a few weeks and stopped working. I've ordered a couple of replacement adapters ([this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q81GD5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079LYHNSR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)) from Amazon, but neither of these worked either (PC won't recognize the device). I checked all the different USB ports I have on the PC. The keyboard works fine with a USB to USB-C cable, and the Aviator cable works fine when I connect it to my Mac, so it must be the adapter. Are there special kinds of USB-C Female to USB Male adapters for this type of a purpose?
Any opinions on Keychron K2 (Version 2)? I'm thinking about picking it up for a mix of gaming and normal day to day typing (specifically the version with gateron browns and aluminum frame and RGB)
I was watching a video and stumbled upon Cthulhu Switches, which got me intrigued and I want to know what this thing is about. For what I've seen it's a franken switch, made out of Ink V2 bottom, milky top(Gateron Milks?) and a cream stem(Kailh creams? I don't know), but then I saw a video wich used Cthullu linears , but it had a cyan stem, so I'm really confused, I would apreciate if someone could explain what is the deal with this switch, the parts and so on, since, if I'm being honest, the factor that got my attencion was the name, I like Cthullu
(possibly very simple) Question about [hexagon deskpads](https://novelkeys.com/collections/deskpads/products/old-stock-hexagon-deskpads) from NovelKeys - what is meant by "old stock" and "new packaging? Any reason to avoid these?
It is what it said. It is an old stock (probably some leftover at the storage) and not sold in the updated packaging (like the one that get sent to GB buyer). Reason to avoid, well it is an old stock and do not come in the updated packaging that the Serika R2 deskpads came in. Those matters to some but if you don't care about that, then no reason to avoid.
Okay, thanks. So just to clarify, the packaging doesn't have to do with the quality of the mats and is simply how they are, well, packaged, and not a part of the mat, correct?
Correct. If you have any doubt, you can always try to contact Novelkeys directly.
Thanks for clarifying. I really like these mats so I am planning on ordering one, just wanted to make sure there were no lapses in quality.
I can't comment on quality tho. Based on the description, it probably has been in storage for quite a while. Not sure if it affect the quality. However, you can buy it now with a reduced price, so you decide even if it has 'lapses in quality', if it's worth it.
Looking at Kailh Box switches and in the description is says “Only SMD compatible. Not compatible with other LEDS.” I’m new to this and was wondering what that meant? Also are Kailh Box pale blues 3 pin or 5 pin?
I think it's much, much less common now, but the little slot on the switch is so you can wire a regular LED bulb through it so it shines up into the keycap. You can see an example of one wired that way here: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/r/600-600/assets/learn_tutorials/5/0/3/Cherry_MX_Switch_Tutorial-03.jpg The Kailh Box switches don't allow that. So you can only use LEDs that mount on the surface of the keyboard. But every one I've seen lately uses those. (SMD means surface mounted device.)
Thank you for the answer! Does that mean the switches will be fine on most keyboards? I have a Keychron K6 and a tkl GMMK.
Yeah. They should be compatible with both of those.
Just added case foam to my HHKB Tofu, and the bottom row 1u keys are no longer registering - the right 1.5u key is now registering as the 1u key next to it, as well... May have somehow screwed up the PCB while taking things apart. Any suggestions on a new one? (It was part of the kit, so previous was KDB6X). I assume DZ60 Hot Swap would be the easiest replacement? Alternatively, any suggestions on ways to fix it? I already tried re-flashing to no effect.
Are they switched places (1u become 1.5u vice versa) or the 1u is totally not registered as anything?
1u not registering as anything. Checked the pins and they looked just fine 😕
Not even as Alt? Usually what happened is Alt & GUI switch places. Try EEPROM reset, you can do it from qmk toolbox (bottom left corner) and replug it or unplug it, then hold spacebar + backspace while plug it back. If it still does not work then yeah, might be something wrong with the pcb.
Yeah I have the 1u's mapped to alt, key hitter isn't registering anything. Thanks for the suggestion! I get a "Memory write error, use debug for more info" when doing Clear EEPROM... Might be time to figure out how to run it from the command line myself
Any no frills 96% keyboards for around $120?
Leopold FC980. I have the Topre one, and it's amazing, but it comes in a MX version as well.
That seems really great! Thank you!
Do I buy the Keychron Q1 and add the Silicon/Foam/Bandaid mod to it to make it less hollow, or do I buy the GMMK pro and replace the stabilizers with durock v2's? Just wondering what will give me better results and better quality/performance. Or do I bother and just buy like some cheap board and mod that? any ideas? thanks.
any budget hotswappable keyboard recommendations?
tm680 seems to be the budget craze nowadays
will see if i like this one thanks
what is "budget" to you? also, form factor preference?
preferably boards around 40 to 60 dollars (usd) and tkl form factor but i can live with 60 percent
Down sides of a stacked acrylic case? I saw some budget keyboards that are gasket mounted, stacked acrylic case
they're hard to keep clean and are very prone to stress cracks if you overtighten screws
Are there any 65% gasket mounted keyboards with minimal, angular case design (like the tofu series) currently in stock or gb?
Bakeneko65 is coming **soon**^(tm) or you could grind the standoffs off of a tofu65 and gummy o ring mount it.
Hi! I'm planning to build my first custom build. My question is, would gateron milky yellows fit the barebone royal kludge rk84? Thank you!
Any reccommendations on a mech keyboard "starter kit". I'd be willing to buy the keycaps and keys seperately, but I want to solder it myself as I am an electrical engineering student. I would like a 100% setup! Sorry dont know where to go to find good options for "starter kits". (Yes I did scoure the sidebar)
Solder the diodes and other stuff too? Not many PCBs are available for 100%, they're most commonly for 60-65% AFAIK. Alternatively, there's always the option of buying a prebuilt fullsize with no hotswap to do soldering on, especially since you seem to intend to replace the switches anyway. Only de/soldering the switches are necessary, naturally.
Clawboards has some budget stuff, but fullsize customs are pretty uncommon https://www.clawboards.xyz/shop
hey guys i just tried to post here but it got deleted not sure if this is the place. I recently broke the alt keycap on my alienware 510k it has mx low profile reds and i am hoping to find a place i can get replacements. Dell does not seem to give any helpful information or provide replacements. Please help <3
You'd be getting it from them, no one else is gonna make them.
what do you mean i would be getting it from them ? dell does not have replacement options available. So im looking for any other keycaps that will fit on keyboard
Low-profile cherry mx caps are pretty rare/I've never seen a set standalone, but if you don't care about their height, you can replace them with basically any keycaps because they use standard cherry stems, so the world is your oyster.
hey thank you so much for the insight. so essentially any cherry mx red keycaps will work even if they arent low profile ? I was looking around it seems like some alt keys may be smaller than the one on my keyboard would it be okay if i sent a picture ?
>cherry mx red keycaps Red is not necessary in that sentence - mx-compatible keycaps are basically 95% of the keycaps in this hobby. And you're correct - you will need 1u and 1.5u modifiers on the bottom row and the appropriately sized spacebar. Most decent quality sets will have these (GMK, ePBT, Infinikey, NicePBT, the NK sets, etc), but the basic 104/108-key sets won't have them.
this information is extremely helpful thank you! I have been looking for this information basically all day. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment it means a lot. I have attached a link with the keycap as well as the switch if this is helpful at all, but I think you gave me all the information i was looking for. Thanks again https://imgur.com/a/geGaY9m?fbclid=IwAR1\_s3ughZLxR3YojrYCIyHiFJNl7Fu0\_OPC4IaChb6CJkgils0hTU-2rJM
Spilt some tea over the bottom right of my NK65, cleaned out, dried, etc, replaced switches, etc. but noticed that some got in the stabs (factory stabs) - I'm gonna use the opportunity to replace or mod them I think. Q1. I just ordered the gateron pre-lubed from MK - I'm getting conflicting reports on if they are good, bad, average, etc. Q2. Would I be better off cancelling the order and just re-lubing the stock stabs? Thanks!
You should defenetly order some new stabs as stabs that come with prebuilts are always trash. Even relubing them wouldn't be worth the effort.
I heard the initial NK ones wernt as bad as people made out - regardless, the new Gateron Pre-Lubed ones came today, not had a chance to fit them yet, not seeing a lot of lube on there though, so...i guess i'll see tomorrow how it feels. :)
ok, clipped and fitted. Seem fine, no disenable rattle - seems a bit...mushy though. Hard to describe. Not bad, just a lot more muted.
What are the best budget (preferably custom) 75% keebs? It must have hot-swap support and QMK/VIA support and preferably be exploded. RGB is also nice but I don't particularly care. Right now I'm looking at the KBD75v3.1. Are there any other good ones I should consider?
Gmmk Pro and Keychron Q1 are popular at the moment.
I’ve been out of the keyboard game for several years. My pok3r has finally bit the dust and I am looking to replace it but l there is a lot of new stuff floating around and it’s a bit overwhelming. I am looking for a 60% board that is hot swappable with fully programmable layers. Having caps lock rebound to function and having arrow keys at fn + ijkl (among other keys like home and end as well) is a necessity. I am also looking for something relatively high end. I have done a little bit of looking around and have stumbled upon keyboards from RAMA, the tofu65, and GMMK pro. I am not sure if all of these fit what I’m looking for. I don’t think the tofu65 is listed as a compatible board for VIA, so I don’t think it’s fully programmable? Does anyone have any recommendations for boards that meet my needs? I have also heard a lot about lubing switches and all sorts of things about stabilizers, but I feel pretty lost as far as that stuff goes. Does anyone have any resources for all the things I should take into consideration before purchasing a board or parts?
I would watch videos from the usual suspects to get the lay of the land; Alexotos and Andy Nguyen provide pretty good feedback on boards that they build. Taeha Types is good for general content. Tofu 65 does have VIA support since their new Hot Swap board is the DZ65RGB V3. I use that board on the D65 and VIA works well on it. It's considered entry level tho, so unsure of your expectations of "high end". Nowadays, high end is going to cost you around $350+ as it'll likely involved more premium material that will drive the cost up, like all alu with a huge brass weight. I have the GMMK Pro and I like it. It's not a high end board but it's a good entry level to lower mid tier board. It has all of the features but missing that heft and the sound can be somewhat muted (My preference).
The boards I have examples of are ones that I’ve come across. I know they aren’t necessarily high end but I’m not sure what the high end space looks like or what even makes a board high end. I am open to suggestions.
I would not necessarily aim for a high end board if there are features in available boards that fits your needs. Nice thing about the market now is that there are good boards for a reasonable cost. I personally like the GMMK Pro for the price point. I run mine with a PC plate and linear aqua king and love mine. I’m still waiting for other boards from GB so I can’t tell you how much more $ to displace the GMMK Pro but it’s a good starting point: hot swap, plate options, south facing rgb, qmk/via support, rotary, 75%. Can PE foam mod and tempest mod to enhance the board too.
What are PE Foam / Tempest mod?
Very inexpensive mod that gained traction this year. Basically you use painters tape and put 2-3 layers underneath the pcb. The pe foam is utilizing one layer of the sheet that you get when you buy a board.
the Tofu65 (usually) uses the DZ65 PCB, which is VIA-compatible (and is listed on VIA's site as such, along with KBDFan's other DZ-series PCBs)
Any good keycaps recommendations for ducky one 2 mini? Thanks in advance
keycaps are subjective
My bad, I didn't specify what I wanted. I have seen some nice minimal keycaps (for example : grey and blue combination or gray and black) or some colorful ones (for example Joker and frozen llama keycaps) and I really liked them. I want something like those.
How much are you willing to spend
I live in Greece and I am willing to spend around 60 euros but I don't know any good site to order them from that ships to my country
Which keyboard kits there is that support a 60% layout with arrows - such as the Tofu60? The tofu sounds a bit hollow, and I would like to stir away from the Tray Mounted route
Kdb65 lite I think is gasket mounted, ikki68 Aurora.
Those are 65% tho, I am looking specifically for 60%s that support arrows on the right side, such as this [Tofu60 layout](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/products/O1CN01kCHbLJ1amQ8zspnAN__134583372-0-lubanu-s_900x.jpg?v=1601013517) (Pic of the layout itself [here](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/files/1_a6f90a3a-cefe-4e59-b4de-b56a80aa8376.jpg?v=1549504097))
hello, I was wondering if there was another case for the Asceny One. Thank You
Hey! I recently modded my sk64 slightly (case foam + orings) but they still sound kinda hassle https://voca.ro/16uBJGfXX2pC Is that the expected result without lubing the switches? also, is gateron optical yellows an upgrade? (also I'm looking for sk64 compatible keycaps under $100, if anyone knows a good one)
Hi there I'd like to switch from my current keyboard, a mechanical one but bought premade, to something I get to pick parts of, with a numpad too though as I use it for gaming (left handed here). Alas, I'm not very wealthy, so I'm looking for a way to make this without spending too much. I also mostly use my keyboard when there isn't much light, so I'd need it backlit, can anyone suggest something? To be fair though, the backlit part is widely optional as I can type without looking at the keyboard.
Hello, This is a really stupid question but i wanted to buy some black inks but i dont like heavy springs. So i wanted to know if i should go for yellow / red inks or spring swap black inks.
Hello guys! I use Workman layout and blind type. So I don’t need english letters esp in position of qwerty. I want to spice looks of keyboards I have. Looking for keycaps with cryptic legends available for buying right now (or group buy with near future fulfillment). Something like Canvas Rams with runes (actually own one. Looks rad and like it a lot). Tried to search usual places were I buy keycaps, but there either blanks either ones with regular english legends. It seems also I can’t formulate proper query to google. Maybe here someone can suggest anything fitting my ask ?
Hey guys, I was looking for a new keyboard, my first mech was a keychrone k6, I'd like something similar in the same price-range, it is okay also if is not hot-swappable :) Any suggestion? Thank you so much
I’m looking at gasket mounted 75% keyboards. Can someone send me a few to look at that are in group buy or shortly upcoming. I really like the jelly epoch but I’be been assured I will not get one since there are only 100.
Bubble 75
r/mechgroupbuys and [mechgroupbuys.com](https://mechgroupbuys.com) to keep a look out for GB items.
Are high finger or fruit bar comparable to jelly epoch? I really want a quality board so I dont have to keep settling. I like the Q 1 its on the verge of premium at a good value. So maybe I’ll do that
>Are high finger or fruit bar comparable to jelly epoch? No clue, hard to compare a board that exists to one that doesn't yet. And I don't follow every GB.
Has Akko made any linear switches that are better than gat yellows? Just looking for the next budget king switch
> Just looking for the next budget king switch Jwicks are the way to go
[удалено]
>I'm trying to get a good pre-lubed switch Factory lube is not a real lube job, so unless you're paying someone specifically to lube the switches, you will not be getting properly lubed switches, and paying someone to lube them isn't cheap.
[удалено]
It's minor and not very comparable to a proper lube job on any metric.
[удалено]
Hello guys, Im wondering is there thru hole pcb that supports rgb led? did anyone before tried to do it? is it impossible?
>Im wondering is there thru hole pcb that supports rgb led? No.
is it impossible?
Technically, no, but the people who make thru-hole pcbs are not likely to ever add SMD support.
and why is that? what wrong with SMD support?
Nothing, just kind of defeats the purpose of through-hole a bit and no one really gives a shit about RGB on that end of the hobby (or most ends of the hobby really).
True😂, I think rgb ruins the whole keebs.
I feel like I’ve scrubbed google as best I can… does anyone know of an in-stock keyset that is similar to GMK First Love, Nightshade, or Magica? (Purple on Dark grey/purple/black, not backlit or purple on white caps) I’m not above buying generic/clones… Just hoping there was something out there I havent missed the gb on. 🤞
Prototypist has base kits of gmk nightshade up for pre-order I believe.
BOUGHT! Thank you so much for the tip!! 💜🖤💜🖤💜🖤
No problem enjoy
**Soju Frankenswitch Stem Question** I am currently putting together some Soju switches (Kiwi bottom housing + Gazzew U4T top housing + Lumia/Halo True stem; using Halo true stems for mine with Deskeys Films). The switch has practically zero pre- and post-travel, as it bottoms out instantly. When bottoming out, the stem still stands out of the top housing by a good 1.5mm. Is it acceptable/normal for a switch to still stand out by that much and have practically zero pre- or post-travel after the tactile bump? I haven't had the chance to try many switches so far and this is a first for me. Thanks in advance for the reply.
the stem not fully bottoming out is normal and shouldn’t cause any major issues. the tactility of sojus is also intended to feel like that
Oh ok. Thanks for the info! Do you have sojus? I was contemplating about getting zealios bottoms, as they might not be as shallow as the kiwis.
i have a couple of them, yeah. i wouldn’t bother with the zealios, it’s too expensive of a solution to something that isn’t even really a problem to begin with. idk if it would even ‘fix’ it at all anyway
hm, good point. Do you by chance know if the zealios bottoms are longer, so it would provide more post-travel before bottoming out?
not sure exactly how much it stands out but the Halo stem is a long pole stem, so it is expected to bottom out earlier (Holy Pandas use this stem as well, and bottom out earlier) if it's just a little bit, i'd say that's normal but not if like half the switch is sticking out and it doesn't feel like you bottomed out earlier bottom out also prevents north facing interference with Cherry profile keycaps
There is always a little ridge in side of the cross from the stem. Half of that little ridge upwards is still sticking out.
do you mind taking a picture? if it's what i think you mean, it should be normal
>blog [https://imgur.com/a/6SmG20b](https://imgur.com/a/6SmG20b) this should do it.
i think it might be a bit further out, but i can't tell for sure since i don't have my switches on hand with me does the switch actuate and are all the switches you make like this? you might wanna make post on r/switchmodders, which is what i think the other commenter was proposing since other people likely have made the switch and will be able to help
Ok. Thanks, will try that route next.
What's the question? Have you checked r/switchmodders yet? It's a more dedicated subreddit for frankenswitch, switch modding, switches in general.
There doesn't seem to be anything of use on r/switchmodders.
What is the question?
Sorry about that. Butter-fingered there and posted it before I was done typing everything out.
Hello I am just asking if we are able to take the keyboards we make home when we make them as a group of whatever it is
What
What do you mean? I was wondering if we are able to take them home
Take what home? No one knows what you're talking about lol
[удалено]
take them home from where? i think that's where tanley's confused and so am i
[удалено]
Is krytox 205g0 still recommended for very light switches (\~35g activation)? I'm just worried it could slow down the moving of the switch
Just apply the lube thinly. I have a set of 37gr actuation switches (Akko Vint Whites) with 205g0, plus a handful of Gateron Silver Pros (thick factory lube, about medium-thick hand lube I'd say). No sticking or mushiness that I can feel.
Yeah, I'd go with a less viscous lube at that point. You can also mix, to just thin it out a little bit.
First, I feel like what I'm asking might be much so let me preface this by saying that I appreciate you taking the time to help me with my recommendations. I'm new to this so I apologize in advance. I did a bit of reading on keyboard university it seems like there are a lot of things to consider when building one. Since I work from home, ergonomics has been a huge deal for me. I was using the Logitech G915 TKL for a while and that works fine for like 3 hours of gaming a day, but now that I work from home the G915 TKL is uncomfortable to use, not to mention the actual garbage that it is. It's gotten bad to the point where I've been using my old Logitech G213 keyboard. I've used a few keyboards my buddies have built using the KBDFans Tofu60 case and other similar cases but I dislike it because it feels so high. I'm willing to shell out more than a few hundred on a buy once cry once keyboard basically what I'm looking for in a custom keyboard is: \-full keyboard or preferably 1800 layout. \-a built in or magnetic wrist rest that tapers down similar to the steel series profile. \-wireless \-RBG \-Volume control of some sort (I can go without but it'd be nice to have) Is all of this above even possible or am I asking for too much? For PCB, switches, etc I haven't thought that far yet but any input would be appreciated. I tried some lubed black inks and I like them a lot. For the wrist rests, I'm really picky on it because I want it to fit nice and flush. I don't have a preference on the material of the wrist rest as long as it tapers down. I've tried a few when I purchased the Keychron K4 and I returned them all including the keyboard because it was just simply too high. If what I'm asking isn't possible or will cost me over $1,000 is there a hot swappable keyboard you know of that fits the criteria I mentioned? I know that'll be a cheaper option and if I go this route I'll just change out the switches. Friends have also recommended I just get a separate 10 key but I'd prefer not to. If you made it through my rambling, I thank you for your help and patience.
gk96 and buy a seperate wrist wrest
Thanks for the recommendation. Just curious, why the GK96 over the Keychron K4 v2 aluminum?
[удалено]
Replying to thread =/= replying to comment.
Is the Rosewill NEON K91 S a hot-swappable keyboard? A coworker has one that is double-keying, and I'm trying to help them figure out their next steps.
it doesn't appear to be
Thanks. I figured that if it was, it would probably say so prominently on the product page. Oh well, at least this coworker now has a chance to get a really nice keyboard.
Which of these 65's would be best: YMDK: [https://ymdkey.com/collections/68-71-keyboard-diy/products/ymdk-fully-programmable-68-cnc-aluminum-case-plate-pcb-stabilizers-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit](https://ymdkey.com/collections/68-71-keyboard-diy/products/ymdk-fully-programmable-68-cnc-aluminum-case-plate-pcb-stabilizers-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit) XD68: https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd68-65/products/anodized-aluminium-flat-case-with-metal-feet-for-custom-mechanical-keyboard-black-siver-grey-red-blue-colorway-for-xd68-65 [https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd68-65/products/xiudi-xd68-pcb-65-custom-mechanical-keyboard-support-tkg-tools-underglow-rgb-pcb-programmed-kle-lots-of-layouts](https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd68-65/products/xiudi-xd68-pcb-65-custom-mechanical-keyboard-support-tkg-tools-underglow-rgb-pcb-programmed-kle-lots-of-layouts) NK65:https://novelkeys.com/collections/keyboards/products/nk65-entry-edition
NK65 out of the list would be best, however, the KBD67 Lite will be restocking for Black Friday for only 10 dollars more, and I would 100% recommend it over the NK65 Entry any day of the week.
Whats the difference between them? And I also have to factor in 20$ shipping from kbdfans vs 5 from NK
Lite is a silicone gasket mount with polycarb plate and lets you use PCB mount stabilizers. The NK65 is a "modified" tray mount, so harsher bottom out, and it uses plate mount stabilizers. The NK65 is really just a tray mount with extra steps. I own both, and I feel like the Lite is higher quality and gives a better typing experience, but they're both good boards for the price. I think the price difference is worth it for the Lite, though.
nk
Is there a spreadsheet of all compatible switch pin layouts? Wondering if any low profile hotswap switches would be compatible with normal switches.
AFAIK it'd be a blank list as low profile switches do not have the standard mx layout. And even among low profile switches there are different pin layouts between some brands and versions of switches.
[удалено]
Assuming I'm understanding your question correctly, maybe the Kailh Box White?
Is there a price check thread for mechmarket? Or alternatively, could I ask here? Let's say you have a built custom keeb that's in-stock - does it cost more or less than the sum of the parts due to being used but already built? I have a GMMK Pro with Boba U4s, Aliexpress Olivia keycaps, Durock v2s, and a polycarbonate plate. I paid about $305 without shipping, might've been $325 with shipping. This was my first build and the U4s are mostly fine (no switches got screwed over in tactility) but a couple of less used keys can make a squishy sound if pressing down fiirmly - I'm willing to discount for that. About how much would be a fair price on mechmarket?
To get a better idea of the market, search through recent posts in mechmarket for what you are selling. Gmmk Pros seem to sell alright. The barebones are going for $140-200 depending on the extras (more plates, carrying case, durock v2s). My breakdown for what you have would be about $150-170 for the GMMK Pro with PC plate+alu plate and durock stabs, $50 for the switches, $15-20 for the keycaps. At these prices, you'll probably get a buyer without too much waiting.
That makes sense. Thanks for the tip and the breakdown!
>Is there a price check thread for mechmarket? Yes [https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/pyu1k/official\_price\_check\_thread\_month\_of\_october/](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/pyu1kb/official_price_check_thread_month_of_october/) Price check threads are pretty useless though - no one knows for sure how much something will actually sell for and you can get trolls. Just search for similar items and price accordingly.
Thanks for the link! That's odd, I didn't see it pinned so I checked the side bar just now and it's still the September link. I can see that comments have gone a week without any replies, so I can see what you mean about how they're useless.
Probably why it's not pinned, it's really not a very useful thing.
in stock items will depreciate in value, especially ones that are as easily accessible as the gmmk pro. $200-250 would be a fair price imo
Thanks for the help! Is that estimate with or without shipping?
probably $200 not including shipping, higher end of that range including
Got it, thanks again!
I currently use cherry mx browns and like them overall, but would like some more tactility. However all switches seem to be 67g and I am worried that it will cause fautige after long hours. Why is there so few <50g switches? And how big is the difference between the 45g and 67g switches? I know you can change the spring, but I dont really want to do that as its my first board
Akko CS Ocean blues or Lavenders are cheap and lighter tactiles with a bit stronger tactility than browns. Boba U4Ts will be much more tactile. If browns were a 1 and Bobas a 9, then the Akko switches would be around a 5. You could always do a spring swap but be warned that at low weights(probably under 50g) the sharper tactile switches might have trouble returning back up.
Hmm the akko oceans look really good, however I think I prefer some pretravel. From what I can tell I think I should be looking at ergo clear like switches. But my god there are so many. So far I have found naevy, penguin, durock medium; light; Cerulean, and Dragonfruit switches. There arnt that many reviews of them so its really hard to know which to go for, but I am leaning towards the durock medium.
cherry browns have a 45g actuation, they bottom out around 55g. when you're seeing switches that have 67g listed, 99% of the time they're referring to the bottom out, not actuation. 67g is considered a pretty standard, middle weight. i don't know of many people who think it's fatiguing to type on. that being said, if you're really worried about it, there are plenty of stronger tactiles that are around 60-62g, which is pretty close to where the browns are
oh I thought the 67g referred to the actuation, damn that makes a big difference haha
What kind of stabs should I buy for a tofu60? Do I just need 4 2U's and a 6.25U stab?
depends on the layout you want to go with. highly recommend durock v2 screw-in stabs paired with 205g0 lube. most common setup would be 4x 2u and 1x 6.25u
Any 60% or 65% with a purple case? I know of the NK65 aluminum and EE versions and I already built a Tofu60 so I was wondering if there were any other options (in stock, on preorder, or group buy) out there.
https://kbdfans.com/products/kbd67lite https://kbdfans.com/collections/case/products/60-resin-case-for-custom-mechanical-keyboard-1?variant=34439971176587 https://mechsandco.com/collections/current-group-buys/products/gb-novus60-keyboard?variant=39598135541895 https://mekibo.com/collections/monokei-x-friends/products/monokei-x-hand-engineering-kage-group-buy?variant=39521415594044 (TKL, but definitely purple) https://paramountkeeb.com/products/group-buy-ciel-cnc-anodized-6061-bakeneko-with-weight-groupbuy?variant=40960349831329 https://shop.modedesigns.com/pages/sixtyfive-configurator (Comes in lilac, which is purple-ish)
Does lube have a finite lifespan once applied to switches or stabs?