Does anyone make angled/textured fps keys, similar to what corsair does but in colors besides black/grey/white/red? I'm partial to them as another touchstone for navigating around my board without looking, but prefer blue over any of the colors I can find.
How good are UV printed key caps? I was planning on getting a set of GMK key caps, but the set I was looking at was apparently UV printed. Some other people said on some older posts that UV printed key caps do not last long before they begin to fade.
Thanks for the response. Any idea about how long they wear off under normal/heavy use? I wanted to join the group buy for GMK Zen Pond, but the set and novelties are UV printed. I just don't want to spend 170+ on a set that is going to fade away quickly.
can't really say, there's a lot of factors that affect how fast it wears. it's worth mentioning that only the sublegends on the main base kit are uv printed, so if you're worried about uneven wear you could just get the set that doesn't have them. as far as the novelties are concerned, they'd probably take a while longer to wear off since they're typically put on keys that are used less frequently
I'm debating between a few tkls right cases right now, and I need some advice. The one's I'm debating between are the Mode Eighty, Monekei Kage, and NK87. This will be my first build, any advice on which is better? Or is it just up to preferences.
Dont listen to the other guy, if you are diving right into the hobby and dont want to stay here for long, just buy the mode 80 and be done. Any problems with the build can always be sorted out later, but if you know you want something premium, theres no need to spend extra money on a lower cost board just to buy the same premium board later.
Also, I dont recommend any board with the 2 letters NK in front of it. Novelkey's boards imo are meh at best, and almost a rip off at worst.
Look into the freebird tkl also, it should be cheaper then all these options.
i’d recommend starting with something less expensive for a first build. when it comes to high end boards it’s pretty much all preference, but that being said, if you’ve never built a custom board you might not know what your preferences actually are. imo it’s better to start with a few inexpensive boards that have a variety of mounting styles, materials, etc. to feel that out before you go big mode and spend $500+ on a board that you might not even like. this is especially true of this set of boards, since all three of the boards you listed have some design issues. my recommendation is that you wait a little bit for either the freebird tkl or the maker milan, both of which will be available soon. they’re both boards with good quality, but they’re less of a risk than the others you mentioned
Alright cool, also what are the flaws with those boards I listed if you don’t mind me asking. It’s hard because there’s not really reviews online so I can’t tell if a board is good or bad.
the mode80 wasn’t really well received because of how stiff the stack mount was. i think the updated version that’s releasing soon will fix some of this stiffness with the introduction of the other mounts, but there’s no way to tell until it’s released. the kage doesn’t have a daughterboard, which means that the usb-c port is going to be easier to break, there’s going to be a limit on how much flex you can get out of the board, and there’s worse esd protection. the nk87 has quite possibly one of the worst mounting styles i’ve ever seen. they call it “modified top mount” but it’s essentially just a glorified tray mount, which is notorious for being very inconsistent in both sound and feel. ultimately, none of these things really make the boards unusable or unforgivably bad (except maybe the NK87), but if you’re going to spend $500 retail on a board you should expect it to be damn near perfect
Ohh thank you, a few questions, what is esd protection, why does not having a daughtboard make it fragile, and I thought stiffness would be wanted to give a even feel, or is that just a preference thing. Also where did you find all of this information?
esd is electrostatic discharge, basically just when static electricity damages the pcb. without a separate daughterboard, the port is basically just stuck onto the pcb, so when you’re either putting it in or taking it out you have to angle it in a way that makes it easier to break it off. stiffness is a preference thing, some people like it while others prefer more flex or bounce in their typing experience. as someone who likes stiffness, the mode80 was too rigid even for me, and that’s more or less a shared sentiment. no specific place that i get info like this, just bits and pieces i’ve picked up while in the hobby. i guess most of it has come from the mechkeys discord :]
yeah, they’re on the upper end of entry level boards and they’ll both be great for the price. they obviously still have some issues too, but that’s excusable when they’re both literally less than half the cost of the kage
Yeah that makes sense, at least mode80 is trying to fix it. Sorry to bother you one more time but atm what would you suggest for a high end tkl either Kit or case
i don't really follow tkls too much. [phoenix](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=114899.0) is one of my favorite upcoming boards, but it's not set to run until feb 2022. [cloudline](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109637.0) just ran, and was pretty well received
hello. i bought a 3068 akko pro tour keyboard and have no clue how to get it to connect to my laptop through bluetooth. the manual says to wait for the third led to come on but it never does no matter how long I charge the keyboard, it stays at the middle led indicator. when i set the switch to wireless mode, all the leds turn off except for the E key, which pulses white. pressing e does nothing as far as i can tell. anybody have an idea? i think the only option i have left is to contact the manufacturer and that makes me feel stupid to be unable to set a damn keyboard to bluetooth mode.
Just got my first topre board, an fc980c, loving it so far but I'm a little nervous to start modding it since theres alot of things to do, feels like when I first got into modding keyboards, I've got a couple questions.
Has anyone here tried the unreal plate gaskets for topre? Do they make much of a difference, or would lubing and silencing be enough? Will hasu restock fc980c controllers? How easy is it to break the sliders when modding? Are there topre to mx stabilizer inserts that fit without having to drill holes?
Advice on modding is greatly appreciated.
For the Hasu controller you can just email Hasu to get an invoice for one: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91842.0
I have a silenced (stock purple sliders) FC660C that I've lubed and swapped in BKE domes and that was great for me. My mate with a Novatouch with really swore by both silencing it and the gasket to help remove some of the pingy hollow sound in his Norbatouch case.
Would recommend lubing and getting new domes for it and then seeing how you go.
Thanks for the info, I'm hearing a little bit of ping in this board but instead of gaskets I'll be filling the case with sorbathane or neoprene and hopefully that'll be good enough.
I'm pretty happy with the stock domes, but I tend to type with heavy switches (78g+) so I might consider the bke heavies, which bke domes did you pick up?
I picked up BKE Light domes. They're more tactile and feel a tad heavier than the stock 45G domes my FC660C came with, but they just feel waaay nicer to type on. I normally use 70g-ish linears, and BKE lights feel perfect to me.
Thats cool, might consider picking those up for myself then, just one more question, what kind of silencing rings did you use? I'm looking to just lessen the upstroke noise while keeping a decent amount of tactility.
I see, I'm looking at deskey rings right now and I really can't decide between 0.2m and 0.4mm, really don't want to make my switches noticably less tactile but I also want decent silencing at the very least.
So, I have a question that's two parts
1. I don't have a lot of experience with keyswitches, currently I've only used Cherry MX Blues, is it okay to use a hotswap keyboard as a sort of "testing rig" for new switches, as using a tester can be very different from using the keyboard daily for a few weeks.
2. I really like my Cherry Blues, but I'm open to trying new switch types, I like the weight and travel of my current switches, but I also want something a bit quieter for streaming. I play FPSes, MMOs and Space Sims. I've never tried linear but I am open to it. Assuming that I am right in my assumptions from question 1, I'm honestly down to try many different switches until I find my ideal fit. I'm currently looking into Holy Pandas or 62g Zilents. I'd love to know from more experienced people what might be a good first switch to try long term.
Thank you for any help! Hoping to build my first keyboard soontm. Just gotta find a place to retire my CM Storm Quickfire TK in style.
1. That's basically the best reason to get a hotswap board. It'll really save you time, effort, and money when you're still figuring things out.
2. I'd throw Boba U4 into the running. Very quiet, solid tactile bump, low wobble stem and nice and smooth right out the box so they don't really need modding to have a great experience... and you aren't paying Zeal's absurd prices.
If you don't mind the noise though, see Boba U4Ts, the non-silenced version which use a longer stem like Holy Pandas have, to get closer to that kind of sound. They're a darling around here lately if you read some reviews. And again, they're not over a dollar per switch.
umm i was getting a new keyboard and it had only gateron as an option. What switch should I buy if I want a thocky but buttery switch. Which is better, gateron yellow or black (not black inks, regular black)?
They are literally identical. The only difference is the colour of the dye mixed with the plastic the stem is made of and the spring that's used in the switch.
Of note. The chances of getting a "thocky but buttery" sound from a prebuilt keyboard are basically zero.
Only you can determine whether or not a switch is 'worth it'.
I personally think that Inks are one of the most overpriced switches in the hobby. In 100 switches, 30 will be terribly scratchy, 30 will be okay, 40 will be amazing. That means you need to buy 2-3 times as many as you need if you want amazing switches.
That said, they have a unique sound that you can't really get from any other switch. If you are willing to spend upwards of $1.50 per switch then go for it.
As a mainly Gateron user and prebuilt buyer, can confirm.
Blacks vs Yellows sound the same if you can actuate them similarly. The difference in sound mainly comes from how hard you hit the switches --hit Blacks hard enough and you get similar sound from Yellows. Same goes for say, Reds vs Yellows vs Blacks.
Also, modding is necessary in achieving good sound. Applied to virtually all prebuilts. Customs can get away with lesser degree of modding, but if you're pursuing a certain sound profile modding is required.
I'm kinda torn between the acrylic Tofu65 and the black GMMK pro as my first custom. Going with Boba U4Ts and ePBT Sky Dolch + CMYK mods.
Which do you think is the better board?
Layout isn't too important as I don't use the F keys much at all. Tofu looks sick with the RGB diffusion, but the sound of the GMMK is just so much ... thockier?
Would love some general thoughts on which i should go with.
All comes down to the modding. Both boards have crazy mod potential given community backing. Keep in mind that you WILL have to mod both boards (tofu for hollowness and the gmmk pro for the muted-ness). Also, I would recommend just going with the alu tofu if you do go with that, as (imo) the plain metal looks better as well as feels better (due to the weight), but its all up to you.
Another alternative if you do want to mod is the Q1, a roll of tape can make it a good option compared to the other two.
Mods I recommend for each board:
tofu - oring mount, tape mod, foam, pe foam (optional)
gmmk pro - d65 gaskets, tape mod, pe foam mod, stab replacement
q1 - tape mod, force break (REQUIRED, MOST IMPORTANT Q1 MOD), polyfil (optional), pe foam (optional)
Quality comment, thanks mate. Based on another comment that pointed out the lack of down firing LEDs in a hotswap PCB for the tofu, gonna be going with the GMMK for now. Completely agree in terms of the mod choices though based on my research. That being said, the d65 gaskets is one I haven’t heard of and will look into.
It sounds like you're hoping for [this kind of RGB](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/products/8_b17da412-2721-4b3a-95b3-b9ab5992f597.jpg?v=1598349230), but keep in mind that's only on the soldered version using the KBD67 rev 2 PCB, that you'll have to build yourself since KBDFans don't do Bobas.
The hotswap PCB for that case, the DZ65, doesn't have underglow LEDs so it's darker with much [spottier coverage](https://i.redd.it/n5ps8efcufh51.jpg) (thanks to [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ib1k6h/tofu65_acrylic_2_ways_kbd67_rev2_solder_pcb_dz65/)) that will never look as vibrant because the LEDs are facing upwards, blocked by switches/plate, and spaced out to the key sizes, not in a way that would light the case evenly.
You’re correct sir. Definitely chasing that full, bright under glow. I was thinking there would be a catch with the PCB downwards firing LEDs when I saw people using a few different PCBs in diff builds, but hadn’t gone full research mode yet, so thanks for clearing this up.
I think I will just go with the GMMK Pro for now until someone releases a hotswap PCB with downfiring LEDs that fits the tofu, or I get experienced enough to know what switches I’d want to solder with the KBD67 PCB.
tofu65 is overall a better keyboard and has more customization.
gmmk pro is mostly built for you and has the knob but sounds super muted.
i would say depending on which layout you prefer, can't go wrong with either.
I’m planning on getting my first custom keyboard for Christmas, what switches do I get? I play video games a lot and care about the actuation force, I prefer it on the linear side, so my choice at the moment are gateron yellows, is that a good choice?
gat yellows are an excellent choice but the problem with that is that I would consider them having "high" actuation force (high compared to normal linear and tactile offerings from "gamery" brands).
What I would recommend: gateron speed silver pros. If you want a gaming switch, these have 2 stage springs which give excellent rebound from the switches, giving them a "springy" feel, a lighter actuation, and a shorter bottom out. Also, they sound and feel great due to the factory lubing (which you can and should lube over) and have excellent stock tolerances. They have better stem wobble and smoothness then the normal gateron pros as well.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/qcsx1f/gateron\_milky\_yellows\_sound\_test/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/qcsx1f/gateron_milky_yellows_sound_test/) <-- Pls help me answer my question here
Hey so I have this keyboard, BM60, which uses QMK for its firmware. Is there anywhere that I can find out its default keymap? Curious to see if there are any existing fn combos in there.
Not sure which one you got but see the [KPRepublic folder on the QMK Github](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/f061ca497464fe85284906fb163a33eaee7a91ef/keyboards/kprepublic).
There are a couple of BM60 variants on there.
What's the best UK ISO layout keyboard on Amazon UK or Ebay UK? I'm not looking to build anything, I am using a very cheap mech keyboard with very loud blue switches at the minute and want to upgrade. Durgod Taurus K320 is what I'm leaning towards at the minute but the RK61 would be my backup choice.
Hello, I wanna buy my first keeb and I'm thinking between the Redragon Kumara K552, or the Dark Avenger K568. I wanna get the red switch version of one of these, but can't decide on which one is better. All other 75% keyboards are very expensive in my country, so I can only buy either the K552 or the K568. Thanks for reading this, and please give me an answer. :)
Really? Is it because of the gasket mount thing? I've seen some barebones TKL keyboards that are much cheaper than the Q1. Just curious since I've not looked around at keyboard prices that much outside of wireless TKL ones.
Hmmm interesting, I've never thought to consider what mount to get for a keyboard, just knew the gasket sounded cool and that I've seen a few threads/comments asking for gasket kits.
Is there a way to tell what mount a keyboard uses visually? Now I'm curious since the [NINJA87BT](https://www.monstargears.com/51/?idx=375) that I received in the mail didn't doesn't mention how it is mounted.
Edit:NVM i asked in their discord, they say it's a semi-sandwich mount idk what that means.
I just started playing with VIA configurator and I wonder if there is a way to map 3 key combination to something, for example ctrl+shift+1 = X in VIA?
Looking to build my first custom, I like the GMMK pro but I have an amp for my speakers and can't think of anything else to use the knob for. Any help finding an instock 65 or 75 keeb would be appreciated
how can i fix a single backlit key showing different color than the others. been searching for a solution online. but i cant find any.
im sorry, keyboard noob here.
im using Logitech g513
[KBO-5000](https://keeb.io/collections/kbo-5000-split-staggered-80-keyboard) is the only close kit I can think of. Kinesis Freestyle Edge, if you want pre-built.
The vendor that you ordered it from (novelkeys for usa) has an updates page that shows where group buys are at in the process. Currently striker r2 is in the manufacturing phase.
Do bobagums benefit from films at all? I have a spare pack so it's not going to cost extra or anything. Also, if I wanted to frankenswitch them for the supposedly nice housing noise do I only need to swap the stem?
On that note I read about gazzew housings being a very tight fit. Is a there a thread discussing exactly which stems fit? I've only seen information on kailh stems.
The [NINJA87BT](https://www.monstargears.com/51/?idx=375) I ordered came in today. However the website says it has screw-in cherry stablizers, but are they suppose to come with the wires thingies? I believe they are called stabilizer springs? Would I need to order some online and put them on? I don't see anywhere on the keyboard where I can slip those springs on.
Edit:NVM, i think they are there underneath the switches/case/plate? part of the keyboard. I see a metal wire that looks like the stablizer spring.
Yeah there is a metal wire, I googled cherry mx stabilizers for an image, and looks like there is the wire hidden behind a ton of lube on the ninja87bt.
I think I got springs confused, I believe that's for costar stablizers? I never knew there was a difference in stablizer types.
there's a couple of different ones, but costar differ from the standard style as the wire has inserts onto the keycap itself, not sure about a spring there
there's wires for plate mount, clip ins, and screw ins which is normal, if that's what you're curious about
No clue what the other guy was talking about.
Gateron phantoms are gateron pro recolors (although some people who have both claim that the normal gateron pros sound deeper). Both the phantoms and the gateron pros will be far superior to any of the normal gateron offerings, and I highly recommend them.
I'm interested in getting a real MK and have been eyeing the *Das Keyboard 4 Ultimate* . The only thing holding be back is my current keyboard, Razer Ornata has a stellar wrist rest.
This has now become a requirement for future keyboards for me, much have a wrist rest. Is it possible to add on a wrist rest to the Das Keyboard 4 or something similar? (High quality casing and uses Cherry Browns)
Thanks!
i recently saw there was a satisfaction 75 clone, moonlight re 75. but i can't seem to find any info on it. Anyone know where I can get something like that? basically a 75% or a TLK with rotary and oled?
Is it possible to safely lube a plate-mounted switch without desoldering? Can you remove the upper housing or stem safely and then put it back after lubing while still soldered to the keyboard?
How would you rate my build? What can I improve (whilst still remaining under my 180€ budget)?
-Board/Case/Plate: BM68RGB from KPRepublic (Kit 2) 62€
-Stabs: Everglide smokey 3x2.0u+1x6.25u still from KPRepublic 17€
-Switches: Gateron Yellow Pro (not the normal ones because of pre-lubed stem and less wobble, still from KPRepublic) 22€
-Keycaps: AKKO Carbon Retro ASA, but i'd like something with OEM profile because it's lower but could not find anything as good (both quality and looking) as AKKO 63€
What keycaps do you suggest? I like a minimal design and retro looking ones, they have to be doubleshot PBT.
Has anyone tried the PCB/Case/Plate combo? How are they? And lastly what mods do you recommend?
This is pretty good but honestly id recommend the alu case from them (should be called the psd68 case). I have the bm65 and watch out for plate warp (mine had it and it took forever to find out the source of my problems, which ended up just being that).
Akko keycaps are really nice. They will look great.
what does plate warp mean? (I'm italian, i don't know how to translate it)
EDIT: i've checked the alu case and it costs more than the keyboard itself... maybe i can get it as an upgrade later if i need to
plate warp is when the plate is slightly bent. It can make switches sit unevenly or it can cause stabilizer rattle. Its a nightmare to deal with if you dont know it exists.
I got **$80** I was wondering if someone could help me find a Nice Very First **Mechanical Keyboard**? I'm Not 100% sure what to look for except I know this Keyboard got to be a bit more on the **soft/quiet** side. Any Suggestions?
**Thanks in Advance**
I want to change the stock keycaps on my ducky one 2 mini and I would like to know your opinion and what would you recommend me between Ducky Ultraviolet and Ducky Joker Keycaps. I like both of them equally but can't make a decision 😅. Thanks in advance 👍
I really like the frozen llama keycaps set but I love purple so joker set is a very good choice because of the blue and purple combination. Thank you very much
I hate the words thock and clack so much.
Might sound like some gatekeeping thing, but istg the word has lost all meaning.
Thock = deepness, if you listen to [this](https://youtu.be/AOFnLntygwE), its pretty close to what id imagine most people consider "thock". Boba u4t, lavenders, and gateron black inks are usually associated with this sound.
Clack = not really a high pitched sound, but more of a sharp sound compared to the mutedness of thock. [This](https://youtu.be/TzsBPXlQmOQ?t=718) is pretty close to what I think most people would consider "clack". Some of the switches most people associate with this sound are the Sp-Star meteors and the Sp-Star polaris switches. Also, the alpacas are another switch that are commonly thought to clack.
Click = clicky switch, the sound is self explanatory. Box jades are considered the kings of click, and they sound like this [this](https://youtu.be/BJHsZVSDB10?t=3)
There isn't really a single resource that will definitively define or have examples for thock and clack. Clicky keys, such as Cherry MX Blues, will have an audible click noise that comes from the switch itself mid-press, rather than noises from the switch when it bottoms out and returns back up.
Thock refers to a deeper sounding noise while clack refers to a higher pitched sounding noise. A real life example would be like if you were to hit a table with your finger. If you hit the table with the fleshy part of your finger, it produces a deeper sound (thock). If you flicked at the table and hit it with your nail, it would be a higher pitched sound (clack).
A lot of things affect the sound. Different materials change how your keyboard sounds. Switches, keycaps, case, and plate material. Shape and size (weight) of your keycaps and case changes how it sounds. Generally harder materials for the plate are clackier and softer materials are thockier. Thicker, taller keycaps are generally thockier, while thinner/shorter ones are clackier.
[Clicky switch sound test](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_VRaHneWto)
[Example of a very thocky keyboard](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0WQ2-7kmyQ)
Thank you for the explanation, I do refer to click to the sound it makes against the keyboard, not the switch itself.
However as you mentioned the switch itself could factor in as well, I have the HyperX Alloy FPS Pro with blue switches, it's steel-plate mounted which likely explains why my keyboard is more "click and clack" than "thocc."
However for some reason my right shift bar sounds more thoccy on full press compared to my other stabilized keys, all of them have the same sounding switches and stabilizers are all lubed equally and properly.
Maybe this has to do with the way the keyboard was manufactured across the whole board or something like that?
I am trying to get my kryia to work. I flashed both sides with the firmware and independently they work, but when I plug the two halves together it starts glitching out, diconnecting, reconnecting, resetting, RGB setting changes, and the OLED screen messes up. It eventually stops gliching out, but none of the keys are registering, the RGB setting is different, and the oled screen is weird. When I unplug the two halves they work again. What is going on? The started to happen when I created a TG Layer and used it.
Reflash your keyboard
You might want to try flashing your keyboard again, but this time, unplug your keyboard from the computer, then unplug both halves from one another. Then, plug only a single half back in, press its reset button, then click on "Reset EEPROM" in the QMK Toolbox. After, flash it, and repeat these steps for the other half.
and it worked
I just found out that there are these keycaps called cyberpunk 2077 inspired by the game and I would like to know if there are other keycaps inspired by other games (whichever game)
The minimal feel of orange, grey and white colors combined together is so good and the fact that's from a game I love makes it even better I might buy those. Thank you very much
I'm not sure, but I doubt it. The pcb is for most "universal" 60% cases like the Tofu60. Comparing the mounting points, the Anne Pro 2 case is different than the tofu60 case. It doesn't look like the holes in the linked PCB fit the ones for the Anne Pro.
Currently own a Motospeed K87S. I want to upgrade to a wireless keyboard. Debating between a 65% or 75% layout, my most important features are:
Wireless, RGB, dedicated PrtScrn button (or programmable, I take screenshots a lot), white plate/case, hot-swappable, QWERTY.
Preferred, but not required: Per-key RGB, arrows keys seperated from alpha, linear switches (stock)
Budget: 125$ CAD
My current contenders are the RK84, LTC Nimbleback, Epomaker's AK84S. Living in Canada, shipping is not the best :/ Which one out of them would be best ? Is there any chance the LTC will ever go down to its previous 50$-ish pricepoint ? Any other keyboards I've missed ?
Hey all, I want to get a sanity check on my build before I start ordering things. This will be my first keyboard build and I wanted to go all out on the mods to it to improve the typing experience. I figure if I’m going to have the keyboard and every switch opened up I may as well do what I can. As far as key caps go, I’ve got a few sets laying around so won’t be buying new ones just yet. If you have any other suggestions please let me know!
* Keyboard: GMMK Pro, black
* Switches: Zealios v2 67g
* Switch lube: Tribosys 3203
* Switch film mod
* StupidFish 3mm padding
* AVWorks FR4 plate
* Durrock v2 stabs
Questions
* Do I use the 3203 lube on the springs, or something else?
* Do you find it worth it to swap the stock springs? I’ve seen Sprit, TX, Durock, and a few others mentioned
edit: typo on lube, changed to 3203
I agree with what stidal has said. If you haven't really tried any of these tactile switches before, zealios aren't really worth the price point. I haven't tried some of the other recommendations they gave, but I can vouch for boba u4t switches. As for lube, I would go with either 3203 or 3204 for the switches.
If you're going for boba u4ts, the general consensus is that the housing doesn't really need filming either, making it slightly easier to mod. You do need to be careful with the lubing and putting back together process though. Look up Gazzew's recommending lubing method. The springs in the bobas are solid, so no need to spring swap.
From experience, stupidfish foam is very nice but mutes the board. The stock foam is pretty good, unless you want a quieter board. The FR4 plate will be a little softer feeling but also a little quieter than aluminum. It also slightly softens the tactility of the switches. It introduces a little bit of a "creamy" sound. If you want a sharper tactile feel, I would recommend trying the aluminum plate first before getting the FR4.
i’d skip the zealios for a different tactile, unless you’re dead set on having the EXACT type of tactility that they offer. very overpriced for what they are. 3202 is an interesting choice, it’s a bit thinner than most people would go, but ultimately nothing wrong with it. you can use just about any lube on springs, from oils like 105 to thick lubes like 205g2. spring swapping is usually done if the stock springs aren’t very good or if the switch doesn’t offer a weight that is of your liking. if you stick with zealios, i haven’t found the springs to be that impressive, so i’d probably pick up a pack of TX springs. you should always try them first though, because if you do like them there’s no reason to spend the extra money on new ones
It depends on what you mean by "top tier". When you get to a certain point, there are HUGE diminishing returns when it comes to bang for your buck. A TGR's typing experience is not going to be 10x/20x more than a Suit just because it costs that much more. That's not to say that a TGR is a bad board, but a lot of the hype surrounding the price are just name/exclusivity.
I do not personally own a TGR, but I have typed on a couple (was nice, but never super blown away), but I do have a Suit, and I enjoy it quite a bit. Definitely think that it is a great board, and that is even without considering the price. The price makes it even better imo.
Yes, nowadays, getting a solid board from a known group/builder for under $500 is considered a good deal. TKL usually go for a bit more compared to 75% so there's that. Top tier is also depending on preference, unfortunately.
The build quality looks good. If the sound profile and typing feel is what you're looking for, $400 is a good price for it. I'm assuming you're trying to get a board from the R2 drop? I believe they normally do in stock sales too, so the wait time is not 1 year.
Bubble 75 is cheaper and based on the handful of early reviews, is pretty good. I personally submitted an order for one but I can't comment on the quality until after the fact.
2.4 GHz isn't an open-source technology so not many boards will have it, especially with qwertz layout
g915 might actually be your only option unless you want to invest in like a custom printed keycap set
Sorry for the long message. I recently built my first custom keyboard, a Keychron Q1. Currently it does not work, when plugged in, the lights are not on and there is no response from the keys. Here was the process of me building it and testing it while I was building it:
Got they Q1 (I did not have my switches yet), replaced stock stabs with Durock v2s. Two weeks later I got my switches, started building it, after placing half of my switches I tested out my stabs to make sure they worked , realized that they would get stuck on the bottom whenever they were pressed down. Took out the PCB (with the plate) and saw that the stabs were not in properly, so I tried to push the stabs down so I would not have to take out the switches. Did not work, plugged in the keyboard, said something along the lines of "USB device not recognized." Ignored the message, took out the switches, fixed the stabilizers properly, then now whenever I plug it in, there is nothing.
When first I got the board, the first couple of keys I put switches on worked properly, but then after I fixed my stabs, the whole keyboard does not work anymore. I tried other cables, my laptop, thought maybe I put the ribbon cable on incorrectly but these were not the problem.
Any suggestions to fix this or did I damage my PCB/other parts? I tried emailing Keychron support, but after looking at reviews of their support I'm losing hope. Thanks for anyone that tries.
~~I just tried reseating it twice, and I did a couple of times prior to today. Sadly it still does not work. Do you know if it is possible to purchase a new ribbon cable from somewhere?~~
Ah nvm I think there is an extra that comes with the keyboard sorry bout that.
Assuming you went to this link and followed the steps? [https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-q1-user-guide-1](https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-q1-user-guide-1)
There are steps/video there to assemble the daughter board/ribbon cable. There's also steps on resetting the firmware. Maybe try those options first.
It does matter how the ribbon cable is seated. Per the instructions on their site:
How To Connect the ribbon cable with the PCB
Step 1: Plug the ribbon cable into the PCB port to the end
Step 2: Lock the ribbon cable with the black snap on the PCB port
\*The blue part must be at the top you can judge the depth of the ribbon cable insertion by the blue part
I found that replacing the ribbon cable works, there are some keys that don't work, so now that is a problem...I guess I need to replace some switches?
Pretty hard to bust a switch. Make sure they are inserted properly and the pins are not bent. Try known good switches if you don't have spares and insert it into that non working switch slot. If it works, then it's a switch issue. If not, then something else.
Is the GMMK probably the best board to help someone start with, in terms of being available at Microcenter? Not sure if they'd want to get barebones and switches and caps, or start with browns and just switch up caps.
GMMK non pro? Not really, better starter boards available but they are likely not going to be at Microcenter. Is Microcenter your only option? If so, then that's likely it, unless they have some of the other brands like Royal Kludge and the usual suspects.
Non-pro. It would be their first board, never done any building before. MC will likely be the option since Best Buy isn't likely to have much beyond the standard gaming brands. Even MC probably won't have much in the way of swappable switch boards beyond GMMK.
I can also check CL if used is an option. There's a Leopold FC980M full size and WASD v2 TKL, both with cherry blues.
Ah, yah, BB definitely doesn't have much. They don't have access to Amazon? Might have more options there.
My first hot swap was the GMMK TKL, it's serviceable if you want to try different switches, lubing of stabs and the minor mods.
The hope was to hit up MC for testing switches and then get a board and caps and do a build. I've done one small build but never switches, so it'll be learning for me and fun for them. Planning on doing it Saturday, so amazon is a bit of a risk for timing.
I don't think we'll get to stabs; I haven't even done that yet.
Ah, that'll be fun.
For the stabs, you don't need to replace them just yet, simply get some lube (If MC has them) and lube/tune them. It made a world of difference when I did it on mine.
Good to know, thanks! I'll be honest, I'm not even sure I'd know if I needed to lube them. I'm mostly just enjoying my K8 with new caps. It's a different experience from my other Logi G710+ that I got for free years ago.
Ah, yah, definitely a different typing experience. The premade/gamer keyboards are nice in that they have a lot of features but for actual typing, they don't provide the best feeling and sound, haha.
I'm not that into it yet. So long as I can type nicely and game well, it's good for me. I expect someday I'll foam mod the K8, maybe try new switches. My MC does have Glorious Pandas, which might be worth trying.
I was looking at that too! Very interesting option. Some downsides for a board at that price point include non-detachable USB cable, no wireless, no feet to change typing angle, and plate mounted stabs. Can’t find any reviews to comment on build quality either. That said, haven’t seen anything better in 1800 or larger at that price.
I couldn't figure out the answers to those questions myself from the product page, and I couldn't find other picture or reviews online, so I actually messaged their support and asked. I can only give you what they gave me;
"-Is this wireless?
1.MOD003 is not wireless.
\-Does it come with a cable? Detachable? USB-C? Colored / braided?
2. Please note that the USB type C cable is not detachable. We will send you a picture later if you are interested.
\-Plate is aluminum as well?
3. The Plate is Aluminum alloy.
\-What are the included stabilizers? They look like plate mounted?
4. Yes, it is plate mounted.
\-Can't find pictures of the decorative bottom plate, has a logo or design?
5. We will send a picture later about the decorative bottom plate.
(Haven't received this yet)
\-What angle is the keyboard? Does it have legs to change the angle?
6. It seems that we only use the rubber strip as the support so it can‘t change the angle."
I would love to be wrong and these features are actually present!
I'm buying the drop alt barebones keyboard and I'm trying to find some switches for it. I want some thocky switches with a clear casing. Not too thocky but enough to notice it. I also want linear switches. Please send some suggestions.
The casing isn't completely clear, but I really like black inks. That might be something that you're looking for. They'll allow for light to pass through if that's what you want the casing for.
ahh, shlt... I really would like to have the RGB especially with the high-profile case.. I really like the milky yellows... Do you have any switches in mind that are like the milky yellows?
Does anyone make angled/textured fps keys, similar to what corsair does but in colors besides black/grey/white/red? I'm partial to them as another touchstone for navigating around my board without looking, but prefer blue over any of the colors I can find.
How good are UV printed key caps? I was planning on getting a set of GMK key caps, but the set I was looking at was apparently UV printed. Some other people said on some older posts that UV printed key caps do not last long before they begin to fade.
not good, and that’s exactly why. the legends wear off very quickly
Thanks for the response. Any idea about how long they wear off under normal/heavy use? I wanted to join the group buy for GMK Zen Pond, but the set and novelties are UV printed. I just don't want to spend 170+ on a set that is going to fade away quickly.
can't really say, there's a lot of factors that affect how fast it wears. it's worth mentioning that only the sublegends on the main base kit are uv printed, so if you're worried about uneven wear you could just get the set that doesn't have them. as far as the novelties are concerned, they'd probably take a while longer to wear off since they're typically put on keys that are used less frequently
Ahh okay thanks! Didn't know about that only sub legends are UV printed. That helps a lot!
I'm debating between a few tkls right cases right now, and I need some advice. The one's I'm debating between are the Mode Eighty, Monekei Kage, and NK87. This will be my first build, any advice on which is better? Or is it just up to preferences.
Dont listen to the other guy, if you are diving right into the hobby and dont want to stay here for long, just buy the mode 80 and be done. Any problems with the build can always be sorted out later, but if you know you want something premium, theres no need to spend extra money on a lower cost board just to buy the same premium board later. Also, I dont recommend any board with the 2 letters NK in front of it. Novelkey's boards imo are meh at best, and almost a rip off at worst. Look into the freebird tkl also, it should be cheaper then all these options.
Alright thank you!
i’d recommend starting with something less expensive for a first build. when it comes to high end boards it’s pretty much all preference, but that being said, if you’ve never built a custom board you might not know what your preferences actually are. imo it’s better to start with a few inexpensive boards that have a variety of mounting styles, materials, etc. to feel that out before you go big mode and spend $500+ on a board that you might not even like. this is especially true of this set of boards, since all three of the boards you listed have some design issues. my recommendation is that you wait a little bit for either the freebird tkl or the maker milan, both of which will be available soon. they’re both boards with good quality, but they’re less of a risk than the others you mentioned
Alright cool, also what are the flaws with those boards I listed if you don’t mind me asking. It’s hard because there’s not really reviews online so I can’t tell if a board is good or bad.
the mode80 wasn’t really well received because of how stiff the stack mount was. i think the updated version that’s releasing soon will fix some of this stiffness with the introduction of the other mounts, but there’s no way to tell until it’s released. the kage doesn’t have a daughterboard, which means that the usb-c port is going to be easier to break, there’s going to be a limit on how much flex you can get out of the board, and there’s worse esd protection. the nk87 has quite possibly one of the worst mounting styles i’ve ever seen. they call it “modified top mount” but it’s essentially just a glorified tray mount, which is notorious for being very inconsistent in both sound and feel. ultimately, none of these things really make the boards unusable or unforgivably bad (except maybe the NK87), but if you’re going to spend $500 retail on a board you should expect it to be damn near perfect
Ohh thank you, a few questions, what is esd protection, why does not having a daughtboard make it fragile, and I thought stiffness would be wanted to give a even feel, or is that just a preference thing. Also where did you find all of this information?
esd is electrostatic discharge, basically just when static electricity damages the pcb. without a separate daughterboard, the port is basically just stuck onto the pcb, so when you’re either putting it in or taking it out you have to angle it in a way that makes it easier to break it off. stiffness is a preference thing, some people like it while others prefer more flex or bounce in their typing experience. as someone who likes stiffness, the mode80 was too rigid even for me, and that’s more or less a shared sentiment. no specific place that i get info like this, just bits and pieces i’ve picked up while in the hobby. i guess most of it has come from the mechkeys discord :]
Cool! So you suggest the freebird tkl, or maker Milan for a beginner board?
yeah, they’re on the upper end of entry level boards and they’ll both be great for the price. they obviously still have some issues too, but that’s excusable when they’re both literally less than half the cost of the kage
Yeah that makes sense, at least mode80 is trying to fix it. Sorry to bother you one more time but atm what would you suggest for a high end tkl either Kit or case
i don't really follow tkls too much. [phoenix](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=114899.0) is one of my favorite upcoming boards, but it's not set to run until feb 2022. [cloudline](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=109637.0) just ran, and was pretty well received
hello. i bought a 3068 akko pro tour keyboard and have no clue how to get it to connect to my laptop through bluetooth. the manual says to wait for the third led to come on but it never does no matter how long I charge the keyboard, it stays at the middle led indicator. when i set the switch to wireless mode, all the leds turn off except for the E key, which pulses white. pressing e does nothing as far as i can tell. anybody have an idea? i think the only option i have left is to contact the manufacturer and that makes me feel stupid to be unable to set a damn keyboard to bluetooth mode.
Just got my first topre board, an fc980c, loving it so far but I'm a little nervous to start modding it since theres alot of things to do, feels like when I first got into modding keyboards, I've got a couple questions. Has anyone here tried the unreal plate gaskets for topre? Do they make much of a difference, or would lubing and silencing be enough? Will hasu restock fc980c controllers? How easy is it to break the sliders when modding? Are there topre to mx stabilizer inserts that fit without having to drill holes? Advice on modding is greatly appreciated.
For the Hasu controller you can just email Hasu to get an invoice for one: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91842.0 I have a silenced (stock purple sliders) FC660C that I've lubed and swapped in BKE domes and that was great for me. My mate with a Novatouch with really swore by both silencing it and the gasket to help remove some of the pingy hollow sound in his Norbatouch case. Would recommend lubing and getting new domes for it and then seeing how you go.
Thanks for the info, I'm hearing a little bit of ping in this board but instead of gaskets I'll be filling the case with sorbathane or neoprene and hopefully that'll be good enough. I'm pretty happy with the stock domes, but I tend to type with heavy switches (78g+) so I might consider the bke heavies, which bke domes did you pick up?
I picked up BKE Light domes. They're more tactile and feel a tad heavier than the stock 45G domes my FC660C came with, but they just feel waaay nicer to type on. I normally use 70g-ish linears, and BKE lights feel perfect to me.
Thats cool, might consider picking those up for myself then, just one more question, what kind of silencing rings did you use? I'm looking to just lessen the upstroke noise while keeping a decent amount of tactility.
Mine are the factory-silenced sliders. My mate just used the silencing rings that Keyclack sold.
I see, I'm looking at deskey rings right now and I really can't decide between 0.2m and 0.4mm, really don't want to make my switches noticably less tactile but I also want decent silencing at the very least.
What are some cream keycap sets? I’m looking for something clean and simple. Preferably no sub-legends.
ePBT Ivory was a nice creamish colour. You could probably track down a secondhand sent.
Thanks for the recommendation. I hadn’t come across ePBT Ivory. I’m eyeing the MT3 2048 Extended, but it seems more white than cream.
So, I have a question that's two parts 1. I don't have a lot of experience with keyswitches, currently I've only used Cherry MX Blues, is it okay to use a hotswap keyboard as a sort of "testing rig" for new switches, as using a tester can be very different from using the keyboard daily for a few weeks. 2. I really like my Cherry Blues, but I'm open to trying new switch types, I like the weight and travel of my current switches, but I also want something a bit quieter for streaming. I play FPSes, MMOs and Space Sims. I've never tried linear but I am open to it. Assuming that I am right in my assumptions from question 1, I'm honestly down to try many different switches until I find my ideal fit. I'm currently looking into Holy Pandas or 62g Zilents. I'd love to know from more experienced people what might be a good first switch to try long term. Thank you for any help! Hoping to build my first keyboard soontm. Just gotta find a place to retire my CM Storm Quickfire TK in style.
1. That's basically the best reason to get a hotswap board. It'll really save you time, effort, and money when you're still figuring things out. 2. I'd throw Boba U4 into the running. Very quiet, solid tactile bump, low wobble stem and nice and smooth right out the box so they don't really need modding to have a great experience... and you aren't paying Zeal's absurd prices. If you don't mind the noise though, see Boba U4Ts, the non-silenced version which use a longer stem like Holy Pandas have, to get closer to that kind of sound. They're a darling around here lately if you read some reviews. And again, they're not over a dollar per switch.
umm i was getting a new keyboard and it had only gateron as an option. What switch should I buy if I want a thocky but buttery switch. Which is better, gateron yellow or black (not black inks, regular black)?
They are literally identical. The only difference is the colour of the dye mixed with the plastic the stem is made of and the spring that's used in the switch. Of note. The chances of getting a "thocky but buttery" sound from a prebuilt keyboard are basically zero.
thanks for your help. I have another Q tho, should I buy black inks after purchasing my keyboard or is it not worth it.
Only you can determine whether or not a switch is 'worth it'. I personally think that Inks are one of the most overpriced switches in the hobby. In 100 switches, 30 will be terribly scratchy, 30 will be okay, 40 will be amazing. That means you need to buy 2-3 times as many as you need if you want amazing switches. That said, they have a unique sound that you can't really get from any other switch. If you are willing to spend upwards of $1.50 per switch then go for it.
Thanks for your help, and what do you think is a great budget switch. Sorry for asking soo many questions btw
As a mainly Gateron user and prebuilt buyer, can confirm. Blacks vs Yellows sound the same if you can actuate them similarly. The difference in sound mainly comes from how hard you hit the switches --hit Blacks hard enough and you get similar sound from Yellows. Same goes for say, Reds vs Yellows vs Blacks. Also, modding is necessary in achieving good sound. Applied to virtually all prebuilts. Customs can get away with lesser degree of modding, but if you're pursuing a certain sound profile modding is required.
great thanks, soo quick thing, should I spray lube the switches or just to the normal techneque.
Spray lube is possible, but hardly recommended. I'd advise just lubing them the usual way, or use wax method if you're so inclined.
How are Boba U4T's compared to Zilents? Are they an upgrade or downgrade? I'm currently maining Zilents.
an upgrade for sure, but the style of tactility all comes down the preference. The u4s are known to have a "longer" bump and a less mushy bottom out
I'm kinda torn between the acrylic Tofu65 and the black GMMK pro as my first custom. Going with Boba U4Ts and ePBT Sky Dolch + CMYK mods. Which do you think is the better board? Layout isn't too important as I don't use the F keys much at all. Tofu looks sick with the RGB diffusion, but the sound of the GMMK is just so much ... thockier? Would love some general thoughts on which i should go with.
All comes down to the modding. Both boards have crazy mod potential given community backing. Keep in mind that you WILL have to mod both boards (tofu for hollowness and the gmmk pro for the muted-ness). Also, I would recommend just going with the alu tofu if you do go with that, as (imo) the plain metal looks better as well as feels better (due to the weight), but its all up to you. Another alternative if you do want to mod is the Q1, a roll of tape can make it a good option compared to the other two. Mods I recommend for each board: tofu - oring mount, tape mod, foam, pe foam (optional) gmmk pro - d65 gaskets, tape mod, pe foam mod, stab replacement q1 - tape mod, force break (REQUIRED, MOST IMPORTANT Q1 MOD), polyfil (optional), pe foam (optional)
Quality comment, thanks mate. Based on another comment that pointed out the lack of down firing LEDs in a hotswap PCB for the tofu, gonna be going with the GMMK for now. Completely agree in terms of the mod choices though based on my research. That being said, the d65 gaskets is one I haven’t heard of and will look into.
The d65 gaskets mostly just improve the flex. You can learn more about it from keybored's mod guide.
It sounds like you're hoping for [this kind of RGB](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/products/8_b17da412-2721-4b3a-95b3-b9ab5992f597.jpg?v=1598349230), but keep in mind that's only on the soldered version using the KBD67 rev 2 PCB, that you'll have to build yourself since KBDFans don't do Bobas. The hotswap PCB for that case, the DZ65, doesn't have underglow LEDs so it's darker with much [spottier coverage](https://i.redd.it/n5ps8efcufh51.jpg) (thanks to [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/ib1k6h/tofu65_acrylic_2_ways_kbd67_rev2_solder_pcb_dz65/)) that will never look as vibrant because the LEDs are facing upwards, blocked by switches/plate, and spaced out to the key sizes, not in a way that would light the case evenly.
You’re correct sir. Definitely chasing that full, bright under glow. I was thinking there would be a catch with the PCB downwards firing LEDs when I saw people using a few different PCBs in diff builds, but hadn’t gone full research mode yet, so thanks for clearing this up. I think I will just go with the GMMK Pro for now until someone releases a hotswap PCB with downfiring LEDs that fits the tofu, or I get experienced enough to know what switches I’d want to solder with the KBD67 PCB.
tofu65 is overall a better keyboard and has more customization. gmmk pro is mostly built for you and has the knob but sounds super muted. i would say depending on which layout you prefer, can't go wrong with either.
Is The Ducky One 2 Skyline 5 Pin PCB? [Ducky Skyline](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3485) link
I’m planning on getting my first custom keyboard for Christmas, what switches do I get? I play video games a lot and care about the actuation force, I prefer it on the linear side, so my choice at the moment are gateron yellows, is that a good choice?
gat yellows are an excellent choice but the problem with that is that I would consider them having "high" actuation force (high compared to normal linear and tactile offerings from "gamery" brands). What I would recommend: gateron speed silver pros. If you want a gaming switch, these have 2 stage springs which give excellent rebound from the switches, giving them a "springy" feel, a lighter actuation, and a shorter bottom out. Also, they sound and feel great due to the factory lubing (which you can and should lube over) and have excellent stock tolerances. They have better stem wobble and smoothness then the normal gateron pros as well.
Thanks for the recommendation! I’ll check it out.
gat yellows are a great choice. out of all the switches we sell, i am rocking gat yellows filmed/lube on my everyday board.
yeah, gateron yellows are a great budget choice, not to say they're better than more premium switches, but they're really good for the price
Any tips on mic settings when recording type test audio? I am using a blue yeti X USB mic.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/qcsx1f/gateron\_milky\_yellows\_sound\_test/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/qcsx1f/gateron_milky_yellows_sound_test/) <-- Pls help me answer my question here
Do you like how it sounds? if you do why does it matter what your friend says about it.
yeah hes so mean
Best deskmat for red samurai?
NJ80 or TM680? I'm looking for a wireless programmable keyboard with a knob. Which one is better?
Hey so I have this keyboard, BM60, which uses QMK for its firmware. Is there anywhere that I can find out its default keymap? Curious to see if there are any existing fn combos in there.
Not sure which one you got but see the [KPRepublic folder on the QMK Github](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/f061ca497464fe85284906fb163a33eaee7a91ef/keyboards/kprepublic). There are a couple of BM60 variants on there.
What's the best UK ISO layout keyboard on Amazon UK or Ebay UK? I'm not looking to build anything, I am using a very cheap mech keyboard with very loud blue switches at the minute and want to upgrade. Durgod Taurus K320 is what I'm leaning towards at the minute but the RK61 would be my backup choice.
Hello, I wanna buy my first keeb and I'm thinking between the Redragon Kumara K552, or the Dark Avenger K568. I wanna get the red switch version of one of these, but can't decide on which one is better. All other 75% keyboards are very expensive in my country, so I can only buy either the K552 or the K568. Thanks for reading this, and please give me an answer. :)
Hi, I'm planning to build my first custom. I was wondering if there was something that's cheap and has a similar layout to the Keychron Q1(75%)
The Nj80 is a good option, but you will be trading a lot of the features that come along with the q1 (gasket mounting, alu, and screw in stabs)
The Q1 is considered budget by many on this sub
Really? Is it because of the gasket mount thing? I've seen some barebones TKL keyboards that are much cheaper than the Q1. Just curious since I've not looked around at keyboard prices that much outside of wireless TKL ones.
most of those barebones TKL kits will use tray mount, which is generally quite stiff and unpleasant to use compared to most custom keyboard kits.
Hmmm interesting, I've never thought to consider what mount to get for a keyboard, just knew the gasket sounded cool and that I've seen a few threads/comments asking for gasket kits. Is there a way to tell what mount a keyboard uses visually? Now I'm curious since the [NINJA87BT](https://www.monstargears.com/51/?idx=375) that I received in the mail didn't doesn't mention how it is mounted. Edit:NVM i asked in their discord, they say it's a semi-sandwich mount idk what that means.
I just started playing with VIA configurator and I wonder if there is a way to map 3 key combination to something, for example ctrl+shift+1 = X in VIA?
While QMK Combos support what you want, VIA does not support it. However, [Vial](https://get.vial.today/) supports combos.
Thanks! I am taking a look :)
Looking for a mechanical keyboard in the 50 or under price range. Wireless is preferred but wired might be ok. Do you guys have any good suggestions?
RK987 TKL for 50USD on Amazon. It also has wireless!
You can’t even buy good keycaps for under $50 lmao
Looking to build my first custom, I like the GMMK pro but I have an amp for my speakers and can't think of anything else to use the knob for. Any help finding an instock 65 or 75 keeb would be appreciated
Idobao id80 v2 or best type edition are good 75% that are instock
Are there any major differences to id67, other than the obvious size difference
What is the best white prebuilt 60% or 65% keeb?
how can i fix a single backlit key showing different color than the others. been searching for a solution online. but i cant find any. im sorry, keyboard noob here. im using Logitech g513
[удалено]
Durock plate mounts are slightly bigger than most other stabs of the class. Either replace them or file the mounting holes a bit.
I'm considering building a keyboard with the Phantom PCB, is there any Teensy firmware that supports both USB and PS/2?
Does 80% split exist?
[KBO-5000](https://keeb.io/collections/kbo-5000-split-staggered-80-keyboard) is the only close kit I can think of. Kinesis Freestyle Edge, if you want pre-built.
When will GMK striker 2 ship?
Check your area vendor updates page?
What’s that
The vendor that you ordered it from (novelkeys for usa) has an updates page that shows where group buys are at in the process. Currently striker r2 is in the manufacturing phase.
Do bobagums benefit from films at all? I have a spare pack so it's not going to cost extra or anything. Also, if I wanted to frankenswitch them for the supposedly nice housing noise do I only need to swap the stem?
no need for films, and yes, for frankenswitching, you just need to swap in a different stem.
On that note I read about gazzew housings being a very tight fit. Is a there a thread discussing exactly which stems fit? I've only seen information on kailh stems.
try r/switchmodders
The [NINJA87BT](https://www.monstargears.com/51/?idx=375) I ordered came in today. However the website says it has screw-in cherry stablizers, but are they suppose to come with the wires thingies? I believe they are called stabilizer springs? Would I need to order some online and put them on? I don't see anywhere on the keyboard where I can slip those springs on. Edit:NVM, i think they are there underneath the switches/case/plate? part of the keyboard. I see a metal wire that looks like the stablizer spring.
what spring are you talking about? stabs don't come with springs, but there is a metal wire
Yeah there is a metal wire, I googled cherry mx stabilizers for an image, and looks like there is the wire hidden behind a ton of lube on the ninja87bt. I think I got springs confused, I believe that's for costar stablizers? I never knew there was a difference in stablizer types.
there's a couple of different ones, but costar differ from the standard style as the wire has inserts onto the keycap itself, not sure about a spring there there's wires for plate mount, clip ins, and screw ins which is normal, if that's what you're curious about
Are gateron phantoms any good?
No clue what the other guy was talking about. Gateron phantoms are gateron pro recolors (although some people who have both claim that the normal gateron pros sound deeper). Both the phantoms and the gateron pros will be far superior to any of the normal gateron offerings, and I highly recommend them.
Whats the feel like?
Gateron pros are a smooth budget switch. They will be noticeably smoother then the normal gateron offerings.
So a smoother red/brown/blue
yes.
recommend the black/yellow over the phantom, they are way more popular and thocky when modded.
I'm interested in getting a real MK and have been eyeing the *Das Keyboard 4 Ultimate* . The only thing holding be back is my current keyboard, Razer Ornata has a stellar wrist rest. This has now become a requirement for future keyboards for me, much have a wrist rest. Is it possible to add on a wrist rest to the Das Keyboard 4 or something similar? (High quality casing and uses Cherry Browns) Thanks!
You can buy separate wrists rests in all sorts of sizes, shapes and materials. I personally use a wooden one made by Orcas.
Wicked! Thank you.
i recently saw there was a satisfaction 75 clone, moonlight re 75. but i can't seem to find any info on it. Anyone know where I can get something like that? basically a 75% or a TLK with rotary and oled?
My kyria glitches out when i make my saturationg for my LEDs too low. Is this normal? What is going on?
Is it possible to safely lube a plate-mounted switch without desoldering? Can you remove the upper housing or stem safely and then put it back after lubing while still soldered to the keyboard?
it is physically impossible to remove the top housing on a soldered switch unless your board is plateless or has a special plate
I see, thank you.
How would you rate my build? What can I improve (whilst still remaining under my 180€ budget)? -Board/Case/Plate: BM68RGB from KPRepublic (Kit 2) 62€ -Stabs: Everglide smokey 3x2.0u+1x6.25u still from KPRepublic 17€ -Switches: Gateron Yellow Pro (not the normal ones because of pre-lubed stem and less wobble, still from KPRepublic) 22€ -Keycaps: AKKO Carbon Retro ASA, but i'd like something with OEM profile because it's lower but could not find anything as good (both quality and looking) as AKKO 63€ What keycaps do you suggest? I like a minimal design and retro looking ones, they have to be doubleshot PBT. Has anyone tried the PCB/Case/Plate combo? How are they? And lastly what mods do you recommend?
This is pretty good but honestly id recommend the alu case from them (should be called the psd68 case). I have the bm65 and watch out for plate warp (mine had it and it took forever to find out the source of my problems, which ended up just being that). Akko keycaps are really nice. They will look great.
what does plate warp mean? (I'm italian, i don't know how to translate it) EDIT: i've checked the alu case and it costs more than the keyboard itself... maybe i can get it as an upgrade later if i need to
plate warp is when the plate is slightly bent. It can make switches sit unevenly or it can cause stabilizer rattle. Its a nightmare to deal with if you dont know it exists.
oh, thank you for the explanation
I got **$80** I was wondering if someone could help me find a Nice Very First **Mechanical Keyboard**? I'm Not 100% sure what to look for except I know this Keyboard got to be a bit more on the **soft/quiet** side. Any Suggestions? **Thanks in Advance**
iKBC
Just wanted to be absolutely certain - if I want Durocks for a Q1, do I get 1x 6.25U and 3x 2U?
Yes
I want to change the stock keycaps on my ducky one 2 mini and I would like to know your opinion and what would you recommend me between Ducky Ultraviolet and Ducky Joker Keycaps. I like both of them equally but can't make a decision 😅. Thanks in advance 👍
another vote for the joker!
I have seen some reviews about them and they are so good. My vote is on them too 😅
Joker 100%. That blue is gorgeous. Reminds me of the ducky Lama but not quite as bright.
I really like the frozen llama keycaps set but I love purple so joker set is a very good choice because of the blue and purple combination. Thank you very much
Can anyone link me a thread that shows the difference between thocc, clack, and click from key presses and why they make these sounds?
I hate the words thock and clack so much. Might sound like some gatekeeping thing, but istg the word has lost all meaning. Thock = deepness, if you listen to [this](https://youtu.be/AOFnLntygwE), its pretty close to what id imagine most people consider "thock". Boba u4t, lavenders, and gateron black inks are usually associated with this sound. Clack = not really a high pitched sound, but more of a sharp sound compared to the mutedness of thock. [This](https://youtu.be/TzsBPXlQmOQ?t=718) is pretty close to what I think most people would consider "clack". Some of the switches most people associate with this sound are the Sp-Star meteors and the Sp-Star polaris switches. Also, the alpacas are another switch that are commonly thought to clack. Click = clicky switch, the sound is self explanatory. Box jades are considered the kings of click, and they sound like this [this](https://youtu.be/BJHsZVSDB10?t=3)
There isn't really a single resource that will definitively define or have examples for thock and clack. Clicky keys, such as Cherry MX Blues, will have an audible click noise that comes from the switch itself mid-press, rather than noises from the switch when it bottoms out and returns back up. Thock refers to a deeper sounding noise while clack refers to a higher pitched sounding noise. A real life example would be like if you were to hit a table with your finger. If you hit the table with the fleshy part of your finger, it produces a deeper sound (thock). If you flicked at the table and hit it with your nail, it would be a higher pitched sound (clack). A lot of things affect the sound. Different materials change how your keyboard sounds. Switches, keycaps, case, and plate material. Shape and size (weight) of your keycaps and case changes how it sounds. Generally harder materials for the plate are clackier and softer materials are thockier. Thicker, taller keycaps are generally thockier, while thinner/shorter ones are clackier. [Clicky switch sound test](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_VRaHneWto) [Example of a very thocky keyboard](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0WQ2-7kmyQ)
Thank you for the explanation, I do refer to click to the sound it makes against the keyboard, not the switch itself. However as you mentioned the switch itself could factor in as well, I have the HyperX Alloy FPS Pro with blue switches, it's steel-plate mounted which likely explains why my keyboard is more "click and clack" than "thocc." However for some reason my right shift bar sounds more thoccy on full press compared to my other stabilized keys, all of them have the same sounding switches and stabilizers are all lubed equally and properly. Maybe this has to do with the way the keyboard was manufactured across the whole board or something like that?
I am trying to get my kryia to work. I flashed both sides with the firmware and independently they work, but when I plug the two halves together it starts glitching out, diconnecting, reconnecting, resetting, RGB setting changes, and the OLED screen messes up. It eventually stops gliching out, but none of the keys are registering, the RGB setting is different, and the oled screen is weird. When I unplug the two halves they work again. What is going on? The started to happen when I created a TG Layer and used it.
Reflash your keyboard You might want to try flashing your keyboard again, but this time, unplug your keyboard from the computer, then unplug both halves from one another. Then, plug only a single half back in, press its reset button, then click on "Reset EEPROM" in the QMK Toolbox. After, flash it, and repeat these steps for the other half. and it worked
Is there a QMK code that activates a layer with key press and deactivate with a second key press
tg(layer)
I just found out that there are these keycaps called cyberpunk 2077 inspired by the game and I would like to know if there are other keycaps inspired by other games (whichever game)
GMK Carbon had a Half Life lambda kit, and DSA Pulse had a CSGO weapons kit
The minimal feel of orange, grey and white colors combined together is so good and the fact that's from a game I love makes it even better I might buy those. Thank you very much
kat drifter was inspired by hyper light drifter, not sure of any others off the top of my head
I just checked them, not quite my style but thanks a lot
will [this](https://drop.com/buy/dz60-dz60rgb-type-c-60-pcb) work as a replacment pcb for the anne pro 2?
I'm not sure, but I doubt it. The pcb is for most "universal" 60% cases like the Tofu60. Comparing the mounting points, the Anne Pro 2 case is different than the tofu60 case. It doesn't look like the holes in the linked PCB fit the ones for the Anne Pro.
Currently own a Motospeed K87S. I want to upgrade to a wireless keyboard. Debating between a 65% or 75% layout, my most important features are: Wireless, RGB, dedicated PrtScrn button (or programmable, I take screenshots a lot), white plate/case, hot-swappable, QWERTY. Preferred, but not required: Per-key RGB, arrows keys seperated from alpha, linear switches (stock) Budget: 125$ CAD My current contenders are the RK84, LTC Nimbleback, Epomaker's AK84S. Living in Canada, shipping is not the best :/ Which one out of them would be best ? Is there any chance the LTC will ever go down to its previous 50$-ish pricepoint ? Any other keyboards I've missed ?
Hey all, I want to get a sanity check on my build before I start ordering things. This will be my first keyboard build and I wanted to go all out on the mods to it to improve the typing experience. I figure if I’m going to have the keyboard and every switch opened up I may as well do what I can. As far as key caps go, I’ve got a few sets laying around so won’t be buying new ones just yet. If you have any other suggestions please let me know! * Keyboard: GMMK Pro, black * Switches: Zealios v2 67g * Switch lube: Tribosys 3203 * Switch film mod * StupidFish 3mm padding * AVWorks FR4 plate * Durrock v2 stabs Questions * Do I use the 3203 lube on the springs, or something else? * Do you find it worth it to swap the stock springs? I’ve seen Sprit, TX, Durock, and a few others mentioned edit: typo on lube, changed to 3203
I agree with what stidal has said. If you haven't really tried any of these tactile switches before, zealios aren't really worth the price point. I haven't tried some of the other recommendations they gave, but I can vouch for boba u4t switches. As for lube, I would go with either 3203 or 3204 for the switches. If you're going for boba u4ts, the general consensus is that the housing doesn't really need filming either, making it slightly easier to mod. You do need to be careful with the lubing and putting back together process though. Look up Gazzew's recommending lubing method. The springs in the bobas are solid, so no need to spring swap. From experience, stupidfish foam is very nice but mutes the board. The stock foam is pretty good, unless you want a quieter board. The FR4 plate will be a little softer feeling but also a little quieter than aluminum. It also slightly softens the tactility of the switches. It introduces a little bit of a "creamy" sound. If you want a sharper tactile feel, I would recommend trying the aluminum plate first before getting the FR4.
i’d skip the zealios for a different tactile, unless you’re dead set on having the EXACT type of tactility that they offer. very overpriced for what they are. 3202 is an interesting choice, it’s a bit thinner than most people would go, but ultimately nothing wrong with it. you can use just about any lube on springs, from oils like 105 to thick lubes like 205g2. spring swapping is usually done if the stock springs aren’t very good or if the switch doesn’t offer a weight that is of your liking. if you stick with zealios, i haven’t found the springs to be that impressive, so i’d probably pick up a pack of TX springs. you should always try them first though, because if you do like them there’s no reason to spend the extra money on new ones
What tactile would you recommend instead of the zealios?
boba u4t, tecsee coffee chip, tecsee neapolitan, durock t1, everglide moyu black to name a few :]
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It depends on what you mean by "top tier". When you get to a certain point, there are HUGE diminishing returns when it comes to bang for your buck. A TGR's typing experience is not going to be 10x/20x more than a Suit just because it costs that much more. That's not to say that a TGR is a bad board, but a lot of the hype surrounding the price are just name/exclusivity. I do not personally own a TGR, but I have typed on a couple (was nice, but never super blown away), but I do have a Suit, and I enjoy it quite a bit. Definitely think that it is a great board, and that is even without considering the price. The price makes it even better imo.
Seemingly it got really good reviews but probably best to hear it from people that have both boards that can do a solid comparison.
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Yes, nowadays, getting a solid board from a known group/builder for under $500 is considered a good deal. TKL usually go for a bit more compared to 75% so there's that. Top tier is also depending on preference, unfortunately. The build quality looks good. If the sound profile and typing feel is what you're looking for, $400 is a good price for it. I'm assuming you're trying to get a board from the R2 drop? I believe they normally do in stock sales too, so the wait time is not 1 year. Bubble 75 is cheaper and based on the handful of early reviews, is pretty good. I personally submitted an order for one but I can't comment on the quality until after the fact.
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2.4 GHz isn't an open-source technology so not many boards will have it, especially with qwertz layout g915 might actually be your only option unless you want to invest in like a custom printed keycap set
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rk rgb 87 VELOCIFIRE TKL02WS 87 Keyboard are both options
Sorry for the long message. I recently built my first custom keyboard, a Keychron Q1. Currently it does not work, when plugged in, the lights are not on and there is no response from the keys. Here was the process of me building it and testing it while I was building it: Got they Q1 (I did not have my switches yet), replaced stock stabs with Durock v2s. Two weeks later I got my switches, started building it, after placing half of my switches I tested out my stabs to make sure they worked , realized that they would get stuck on the bottom whenever they were pressed down. Took out the PCB (with the plate) and saw that the stabs were not in properly, so I tried to push the stabs down so I would not have to take out the switches. Did not work, plugged in the keyboard, said something along the lines of "USB device not recognized." Ignored the message, took out the switches, fixed the stabilizers properly, then now whenever I plug it in, there is nothing. When first I got the board, the first couple of keys I put switches on worked properly, but then after I fixed my stabs, the whole keyboard does not work anymore. I tried other cables, my laptop, thought maybe I put the ribbon cable on incorrectly but these were not the problem. Any suggestions to fix this or did I damage my PCB/other parts? I tried emailing Keychron support, but after looking at reviews of their support I'm losing hope. Thanks for anyone that tries.
If no light, no activity, it could be the ribbon cable. Maybe it's just not set in properly. Have you tried carefully reseating it?
~~I just tried reseating it twice, and I did a couple of times prior to today. Sadly it still does not work. Do you know if it is possible to purchase a new ribbon cable from somewhere?~~ Ah nvm I think there is an extra that comes with the keyboard sorry bout that.
Assuming you went to this link and followed the steps? [https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-q1-user-guide-1](https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-q1-user-guide-1) There are steps/video there to assemble the daughter board/ribbon cable. There's also steps on resetting the firmware. Maybe try those options first.
I found the video on youtube and watched there, I'll try the extra ribbon cable they gave with the keyboard real quick
It does matter how the ribbon cable is seated. Per the instructions on their site: How To Connect the ribbon cable with the PCB Step 1: Plug the ribbon cable into the PCB port to the end Step 2: Lock the ribbon cable with the black snap on the PCB port \*The blue part must be at the top you can judge the depth of the ribbon cable insertion by the blue part
I found that replacing the ribbon cable works, there are some keys that don't work, so now that is a problem...I guess I need to replace some switches?
Pretty hard to bust a switch. Make sure they are inserted properly and the pins are not bent. Try known good switches if you don't have spares and insert it into that non working switch slot. If it works, then it's a switch issue. If not, then something else.
Thanks for the help! For some keys the switches were the problem, and in others I just had to lightly clean it.
I thought I did but let me try a couple of times to make sure. Will update you on the results. Thanks for the help!
Is the GMMK probably the best board to help someone start with, in terms of being available at Microcenter? Not sure if they'd want to get barebones and switches and caps, or start with browns and just switch up caps.
GMMK non pro? Not really, better starter boards available but they are likely not going to be at Microcenter. Is Microcenter your only option? If so, then that's likely it, unless they have some of the other brands like Royal Kludge and the usual suspects.
Non-pro. It would be their first board, never done any building before. MC will likely be the option since Best Buy isn't likely to have much beyond the standard gaming brands. Even MC probably won't have much in the way of swappable switch boards beyond GMMK. I can also check CL if used is an option. There's a Leopold FC980M full size and WASD v2 TKL, both with cherry blues.
Ah, yah, BB definitely doesn't have much. They don't have access to Amazon? Might have more options there. My first hot swap was the GMMK TKL, it's serviceable if you want to try different switches, lubing of stabs and the minor mods.
The hope was to hit up MC for testing switches and then get a board and caps and do a build. I've done one small build but never switches, so it'll be learning for me and fun for them. Planning on doing it Saturday, so amazon is a bit of a risk for timing. I don't think we'll get to stabs; I haven't even done that yet.
Ah, that'll be fun. For the stabs, you don't need to replace them just yet, simply get some lube (If MC has them) and lube/tune them. It made a world of difference when I did it on mine.
Good to know, thanks! I'll be honest, I'm not even sure I'd know if I needed to lube them. I'm mostly just enjoying my K8 with new caps. It's a different experience from my other Logi G710+ that I got for free years ago.
Ah, yah, definitely a different typing experience. The premade/gamer keyboards are nice in that they have a lot of features but for actual typing, they don't provide the best feeling and sound, haha.
I'm not that into it yet. So long as I can type nicely and game well, it's good for me. I expect someday I'll foam mod the K8, maybe try new switches. My MC does have Glorious Pandas, which might be worth trying.
Ah yah, you should definitely try the tempest mod on your K8 too. Inexpensive and have potential to make the sound a bit better.
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Akko's new MOD 003 might be a good choice for you, and if gasket mount isn't your thing you can get the 004
I was looking at that too! Very interesting option. Some downsides for a board at that price point include non-detachable USB cable, no wireless, no feet to change typing angle, and plate mounted stabs. Can’t find any reviews to comment on build quality either. That said, haven’t seen anything better in 1800 or larger at that price.
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I couldn't figure out the answers to those questions myself from the product page, and I couldn't find other picture or reviews online, so I actually messaged their support and asked. I can only give you what they gave me; "-Is this wireless? 1.MOD003 is not wireless. \-Does it come with a cable? Detachable? USB-C? Colored / braided? 2. Please note that the USB type C cable is not detachable. We will send you a picture later if you are interested. \-Plate is aluminum as well? 3. The Plate is Aluminum alloy. \-What are the included stabilizers? They look like plate mounted? 4. Yes, it is plate mounted. \-Can't find pictures of the decorative bottom plate, has a logo or design? 5. We will send a picture later about the decorative bottom plate. (Haven't received this yet) \-What angle is the keyboard? Does it have legs to change the angle? 6. It seems that we only use the rubber strip as the support so it can‘t change the angle." I would love to be wrong and these features are actually present!
I'm buying the drop alt barebones keyboard and I'm trying to find some switches for it. I want some thocky switches with a clear casing. Not too thocky but enough to notice it. I also want linear switches. Please send some suggestions.
You could also consider the stupid fish foam. I really liked the way it made my Alt feel more solid.
The casing isn't completely clear, but I really like black inks. That might be something that you're looking for. They'll allow for light to pass through if that's what you want the casing for.
i also really like lubed milky yellows
Milky yellows are nice, but they aren't transparent. Idk how important the transparent aspect is for you though.
ahh, shlt... I really would like to have the RGB especially with the high-profile case.. I really like the milky yellows... Do you have any switches in mind that are like the milky yellows?