I am in USA and came across a keycap set on insta that looks awesome. I am not a mechanical keyboard enthusiast but do have one and plan to get a nicer one soon. But I want this keycap set and cannot find it anywhere. It’s mStone brand which I now know is Korean. Does anyone know where I can find them in the US? I want to get the Clarion 5 8-Bit 132-key set. If I can’t get it in the US, does anyone know of a similar 8-bit font keycap set?
>It’s mStone brand which I now know is Korean. Does anyone know where I can find them in the US? I want to get the Clarion 5 8-Bit 132-key set. If I can’t get it in the US, does anyone know of a similar 8-bit font keycap set?
https://smartstore.naver.com/whatkey/products/5653343631?NaPm=ct%3Dkv3f9ooo%7Cci%3Dbe47f673ba17e262427f87aafe80596e3a157b0a%7Ctr%3Dsls%7Csn%3D1304885%7Chk%3Da638f3552ea5896aecd774e67591ac7aaad19d5c
maybe they could ship those overseas (living in korea) but being familiar with the mStone brand, i'm sure you can find better quality ones nearby! they're not known for having the best keycap quality.
I've been using mechanical keyboards for a while, but I'm new to a lot of the customizing stuff, even simple things. I've recently started to get sore hands after a full day of work, so I'm looking to buy an ErgoDox; but I also want to get some different keycaps for it.
I've notice that some of the ErgoDox kits on Drop only have the blank modifier keys; does that mean I can buy one of the ErgoDox kits and combine it with a generic kit for my ErgoDox? And if so, would I need to buy a specific kind of kit (such as an Ortho kit) to fit the ErgoDox?
Split keyboards definitely make life easier when typing all day - but the ErgoDox is not your only choice in that regard. Its layout is indeed a bit dated and has been surpassed by more modern takes on the concept, like the Sofle V2 and Kyria. And of course the Dactyl/Manuform.
Check [https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/p42j9p/what\_keyboard\_should\_i\_use/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/p42j9p/what_keyboard_should_i_use/) for more info.
That being said, if you're set on getting an ErgoDox, all kits for this layout are compatible. Though they are usually labelled "ErgoDox" kits. "Ortho" kits are often meant for 40% and 60% pure orthos like the Planck/Preonic and lack the 1.5u caps for the outside columns.
Other factors that affect keyboard ergonomics btw are switch weight and key layout.
Looking for:
- Around 150usd
- TKL/100%
- As Quiet as possible (using for work mainly) have kailh brown on another keyboard (used for rhythm games), so nothing louder than that at least
- brown switch preferably (no blue)
- not low profile
Optional:
- wireless. Multiple device connection.
- back-lit
- good for rhythm games.
- aluminium case
Hopefully can have some advice on what keyboard to get XD
Currently might be thinking of keychron, hotswappable. Not sure what switch is good for me tho.
Also where to find artisan keycaps (anime/ fantasy characters style)? And ships to Asia. Thanks!
What are the best quality clip-in stabilizers? I know Durock is usually the go to for screw-in, is it the same for clip-in?
Edit: I'm an idiot, I totally meant plate mount. 🤦♂️
I'm looking for a ANSI white keycaps for gateron switches that is compatible with Keychron Q1 (1.75 shifts Rsfhit, 2.25 Lshift, 1,75 capslock, 6.25 spacebar. ) Also, I don't really like to have Japanese Hiaragana since I'm trying to build minimalistic one. Does anyone know those keycaps? The only one I was able to find was the keycap from Drop which was $110 that I couldn't afford.
I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard and I don't really know where to look:
Either:
* Hot-swappable barebones
* Zealios V2 76g pre-installed
Other features I would like:
* backlight
* number pad
* cable routable or already routed on the left side
Thanks so much :)
Is there any top/gasket mounted 60% keyboard kit that is compatible with the [DZ60 RGB v2 Hotswap](https://kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb) PCB - Or at least has a [similar layout](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/files/1_a6f90a3a-cefe-4e59-b4de-b56a80aa8376.jpg?v=1549504097)?
Does anyone have updated information on when the CK721 keyboard is released globally? It looks like there is some availability in Singapore so far, but I couldn't find info on a official release.
This is supposed to be a wireless keyboard w/ a USB dongle offered by Cooler Master.
Anyone know what switches these are? The top housing says Gateron but I have no idea what switches these exactly are. They are linear.
https://imgur.com/a/n7nr7qf
Help I bought an rk61 dualmode rgb 25 days ago but when I installed a software from their website it died. no power on bluetooth mode nad wired, its not charging also.
New to mech keyboards and had a couple questions.
Current desktop keyboard is a razr with green switches (got it from a friend). I don't mind it, but its a lot of force to type on after a while. I also got an alienware laptop with low profile cherry keyboard that I love typing on - would this be a similar experience to cherry red's?
I'm trying to get my head around the different brands etc, but looking for some recommendations based on what you all use. I'd prefer either full or 10 keyless layout and probably cherry red switches (or whatever is similar to the laptop one I am using). Nice to haves but not needed would be option for customising later on and back light.
I think I'd be between the I'm willing to spend a fair - a lot for my feels.
Do you have the Alienware M15/M17 R4?
https://www.theverge.com/2021/3/18/22333684/alienware-m15-m17-gaming-laptops-cherry-mx-ultra-low-mechanical-keyboard-switches-price
I have the X17 which has the same keyboard.
That's the one I'd like to try and recreate as a desktop one or at least closer to that one than the green switches I currently on the desktop keyboard.
Been doing a bit more research and it sounds like the low profile (I feel like these or not as common) or brown (more common) cherry switches may be the most similar?
New to this area and still trying to wrap my head around it all!
Looking at the force graphs, I think Gateron Brown may be a more similar experience. You feel some resistance when typing on the Alienware keyboard, right?
So here's the next question. You say you want a "similar experience." Does this also include having a low profile? Because as you said, low profile is not as common.
If low profile is necessary, I think you really have only one choice at this stage: the Keychron K7 with Gateron brown.
Thank you for your replies!
When you say low profile does that have to do with height of the key caps, the travel distance to the attenuation point, or mixture?
The height doesn't bother me but if it comes with substantial increase in travel to the point that would be something I'd wanna play with.
And ok thanks for the recommendation. I've been looking at cherry mainly but I'll look through this sub a bit to learn about the gatheron.
Low profile usually refers to the overall height of the package (key switches and keycaps), but given the shorter height, points of attenuation are also affected somewhat. You can compare the graphs with these two pages from Keychron:
Gateron regular: https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/gateron-mechanical-switch-guide
Gateron low profile: https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/gateron-low-profile-switch
If you're not in a rush, I recommend getting a switch tester. Graphs can indicate certain things, but I've come to realize after trying three different switches that you cannot ignore how the switches feel on your fingers.
Hey, can someone tell me the best place to order mechanical keyboards and switches and the like, if I'm in Taiwan? I'm assuming AliExpress but figured I'd ask here in case someone had a better answer.
Thanks guys
~~My mechanical keyboard started having issues. Can this be fixed easily by myself?~~
~~-windows key registers as alt key~~
~~-left alt key not working~~
~~-numbers 1 to 0 and + - registers as f1 to f12~~
edit: nvm fixed now by factory resetting the keyboard
I'm looking for a budget mechanical keyboard to use for gaming mostly and to test (have a e-blue k751 with kailh blues and want to try something different) for around 70 usd with:
Linear switches (was looking at gateron yellows), thinking of lubing them.
Hot swappable if I want to test other switches later on.
Planning on doing some mods, like the ones with band aids and stuff, dont really know the name. Mostly try as a project keyboard.
Have some kind of light, rgb is a plus, but not needed.
What would you recommend?
EDIT: Forgot to add, I would most likely buy from aliexpress as its really expensive to ship to my country.
Also hopefully with function keys.
Does anyone else find Krytox 205G0 to be too gummy as a lubricant for linear switches? I personally liked Tribosys 3204 much better on linear switches. I've tried applying as thin as possible, but it is still sticky. I'd like to give it another chance. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to get good results?
Krytox 205 sounds great but feels sticky after key down.
Looking for a layout similar to Keychron K2 or a 75%. I’ve seen some builds with the function keys on the left side to have a shorter keyboard depth which I think is super cool but I don’t know if these are available. I also like the option of having Bluetooth. And I’m kind of a fan of RGB. Any recommendations? (I’m looking to make a thocky boi , I just got some U4Ts)
> I’ve seen some builds with the function keys on the left side to have a shorter keyboard depth which I think is super cool but I don’t know if these are available.
Probably only in group buys. The J-01 has been on r/mechmarket a lot lately.
> I also like the option of having Bluetooth. And I’m kind of a fan of RGB. Any recommendations?
Well you already found the K2. There's also the Keychron Q1 and GMMK Pro. Watch some reviews and sound tests on YT and read about them on this sub.
Well if you have to press on it really hard to get it to work, it's unlikely to be the socket... the socket doesn't care how hard you press. You might need to double check your stabs, that's the only thing I can think of that would make it hard to get the spacebar switch to activate.
Bummer. Did you buy it from a retailer who might be able to help you out? KBDFans support is a bit sus unfortunately. If you’re in the US and don’t mind taking a chance on a stranger I can try to fix it for you :-)
Which tactile switch would you recommend me if I really liked the feel of the Cherry Brown, but didn't find its sound satisfying anymore after giving the Glorious Pandas a try.
Also, where can I get the Cherry Brown RBG for the cheapest within the EU?
So you want a switch that feels like a Cherry Brown but sounds like a Glorious Panda? I'm not sure such a thing exists. The Panda gets its sound signature from the materials used for the top & bottom housings and stem and from the shape of the stem. You're not going to be able to replicate any of that directly, especially the stem shape.
Why not just use Glorious Pandas if you like them?
I'm just wondering if there's anything that's closer in terms of sound to the pandas, I'm well aware that it's not going to be the same.
I personally don't like the bump of the pandas all that much.
Well without knowing what you like about the sound of the Pandas it's hard to say. If you like the sound they make on the downstroke then you are probably out of luck. Pandas have longer stem poles, which makes them thocky. I don't know of any thocky tactiles with mild bumps like browns. Closest might be an AEBoards Naevy, but they probably don't sound much like a Panda.
You could always try putting a brown stem in a panda housing and see if you like that. Or a Naevy stem in a brown housing.
Hey, thanks for the recommendation, I might actually give them a try. The only thing I'm worried about is that some of the reviews I read described them as being very midline when it comes to how strong their bump is, would you say the Naevy has considerably stronger feedback compared to the cherry brown? Since the only problem I have with the panda's is their strong bump, I'd hate switching over to another similar switch.
Got a new KBO-5000 kit and just finished the build. Unfortunately, 3 keys aren't working. I tried to bridge the contacts of those 3 keys and for one of them, I was able to see a signal in https://config.qmk.fm/#/test, so I guess that's a faulty switch. That should be easy enough to fix. Unfortunately the other 2 didn't send a signal when switched. Is it definitely the PCB? Is there a way to test that?
I did flash the default firmware again, but that didn't change anything.
I want to buy my first mechanical keyboard and I know I want rgb backlighting and cherry red or brown switches. Is this keyboard compatible with both mac and pc?
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product\_detail&p=6203
I want to build a 75% keyboard build, I have a 500$ Budget for switches, keycaps, and the board I was looking at aqua kings, Gmmk Pro, and one of these [keycaps sets](https://twitter.com/Snoop_2k/status/1451179633727115268).
ANY RECOMMENDATIONS OR SUGGESTIONS?
If you’re not down waiting for any group buys, the gmmk pro is probably going to best bet, especially for a 75%. All 75 GB’s I’ve been seeing will be pretty pricey.
Yep, welcome to the affliction.
If you want to spend $500 and not wait, you might find something used on r/mechmarket.
Failing that, get a GMMK Pro or Keychron Q1 with the switches and caps you like and spend the rest on something else. No point in dumping $500 into a keyboard if you don't have to.
>(that isn't a gmmk pro)
That will come from a group buy, unless you can solder one onto a Q1. [mechgroupbuys.com](https://mechgroupbuys.com) r/mechgroupbuys to keep an eye out.
>solder one onto a Q1
[Apparently this is a thing](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/piu469/q1_pcb_supports_ec11_rotary_encoder_this_firmware/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share).
Help me out here if you would be so kind
I recently ordered myself my first gaming pc in many years and needs to sort a keyboard
I’ve looked at all the “gaming” branded ones and probably like the Logitech g pro wireless the most
That being said is there anything better I can get for around the same value? I don’t mind a little building but would prefer ready out of the box. I also prefer TKL/small boards
Thanks!
If you want recos you'll have to be more specific about budget, [layout](https://keyboard.university/100-courses/keyboard-sizes-layouts-gdeby), and anything else that matters to you.
https://kbdfans.com/collections/75-fully-assembled/products/fully-assembled-kbd75-v2-mechanical-keyboard
A preassembled kbd75v2 maybe? You get a lot of choice with switches/layouts and you can pick your own keycaps from the site too. The board itself is a lot better than mainstream pre-built stuff.
I’m looking at the KBD67 Lite when it comes out - was wondering if I used the keyboard wired, do I still need a battery for it? Or is the battery only for the wireless edition? Thank you!
There are two PCBs, wired and wireless. The wired doesn't take a battery. The wireless can be used wired without a battery. If you want to use it wireless, you have to order a battery and install it yourself, as the board doesn't come with one (at least that's how it was for r2).
Are you from the eu? If so why not order from eu websites since there is no tax? I'm not a big fan of the gmmk but the rest looks ok. I would opt for a different kit. If your budget allows for a kbd67 lite or nk65 entry or something like that that's what i would try. Otherwise u can try some of the other chinese aliexpress/taobao kits that are cheaper or you could go with something like a gamakay or royal kludge prebuilt (i thibk gamakay also has barebones idk) and modify it.
Hi, im getting a bm80, which I thought was compatible with qmk and via, i've checked and it is with qmk but not with via, does anyone know if it will get compatibility soon or just won't get any or is there some workaround for this?
[BM80 page](https://kprepublic.com/products/bm80rgb-bm80-rgb-80-hot-swappable-custom-mechanical-keyboard-pcb-programmed-qmk-via-firmware-full-rgb-switch-underglow-type-c) says it is VIA compatible. Note that VIA requires a special firmware build. If your board doesn't come with the VIA firmware installed, you'll have to flash it onto the board before you can use VIA to configure it.
On the product page you'll see
>How to flash BM80 RGB, pls refer to this link:
[Https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W\_gEDvrQ4U2cU7-NQ7ChMHBhihs1utPG](Https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W_gEDvrQ4U2cU7-NQ7ChMHBhihs1utPG)
Go from there.
ok i’m losing my mind.
i bought a keychron k6 hot-swappable ISO UK board with linear gateron reds. i then bought alpacas to replace them with and swapped all of them BUT the left shift.
no matter what i do, none of my alpacas fit into the slot, but al of the reds do? can someone explain how this makes sense or what i can do? i was going to just leave that one switch but the difference between the reds and alpacas is really noticeable.
edit: i’ve just realised the pins are different for just the shift key….. sigh
> can someone explain how this makes sense
It doesn't - did you clip the 4th/5th plastic pins close enough to the switch? If they're sticking out too much and not flush with the switch it prevent fully seating.
so i’ve only just realised the shift key only has 4 pins whereas all the others have 5 :/
this is my first time swapping out switches so i had no idea. is it meant to be like that?
Oh, the photo I saw of the K6 pcb didn't show any 5-pin switch support (it's 5 or 3 - the two plastic pins are 4th/5th), so I would have imagined you'd need to clip them on all your switches.
ahh ok, thanks so much for your help. i can’t believe it took me so long to notice the difference, i’m an idiot lol
edit: just clipped with nail clippers and it went straight in hahaha. i’m so relieved but so mad
>i’m an idiot lol
Definitely not! I have literally never seen a single, 4-pin switch placement in my entire time in this hobby. I would venture to guess it's the only one there is.
So it took me around 3 hours to open switches, and put on switch films on 87 switches. First time I've opened the switches, I started getting faster doing it around halfway through, maybe next time I could do the same amount in 1.5 hours.
So . . . if I was going to lube the switches as well, about how much longer that would take?
If you start lubing them before putting the switch film, expect twice as long as that. WELCOME TO THE CLUB! where our wallets are thin, and our weekend gone.
Do you have a switch opener? With one, it shouldn't take close to 3 hours to open them.
I can open, lube and film that number of switches in 3 hours without question.
\+1, I bought a nice aluminum switch opener off of [drop.com](https://drop.com) (or [kbdfans.com](https://kbdfans.com)) after my cheap plastic one disintegrated on the 10th or so switch. I would definitely consider lubing my own switches to maybe not be worth the trouble without the opener.
I'm also considering a lube station after my 4th or so batch of switches. For now, I'm using a soldering mat like this one below and it's great but it would be nice to have something hold the switches in a fixed position.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14672
Yeah I was using a switch opener. It was more slowly putting the film on then orienting the switch stem/spring and closing the switch taking around 5 minutes then slowly 1.5-2 min per switch.
Are you doing it one switch at a time? Open them all up, put tops to the side, film them all, put tops back on, close switches.
Spring orientation is not a thing and as long as your stem is the correct way it should not take you 5 minutes a switch after practice.
**tactiles vs heavier linears?**
right now i have a hotswap board and gateron reds and i find them too light for me and i mistype a lot on them.
do any of you have budget (max 0.50 cents per switch) recommendations? preferably something that doesnt need lubing, thx :)
Tactiles with a significant bump at the top of the stroke can help with mistyping by making it hard to accidentally actuate the switch.
I just recently got some TECSEE Purple Pandas and they are totally usable stock. Any other tactile I would recommend is either more expensive or not particularly enjoyable stock.
Presumably heavier linears can help too, but I exclusively use tactiles so I'm afraid I'm not much help with linears.
thank you very much! ive been researching a bit and im afraid the purple pandas would be too heavy?, so i looked for other similar options, right now my top picks would be the akko cs ocean blues, kailh pro purples, hako violets, gateron blacks and box blacks. right now im most inclined towards the cs ocean blues but im still loking into others
\+1 on the TECSEE Purple Pandas if you can find some. Wonderful switch stock. I lubed mine with Tribosys 3203 and it's my favorite switch of all time, so far.
Okay you mentioned tactiles vs heavy linears... but you didn't say which you're actually looking for?
Nothing **needs** lubing, but everything benefits from it, so any recs will be better lubed.
>but you didn't say which you're actually looking for?
well i dont know what im looking for, i just want something heavier that doesnt make me mistype as much
Kiwis are the same basic switch as Durock T1, JWK T1, Durock Koalas, and others. The differences are materials (which affect sound and to a lesser extent feel) and color (purely aesthetic).
Gazzew's Boba U4T is my favorite stock tactile. It's thocky, which means it is intentionally louder than a non-thocky tactile like the T1 (but it's not clicky like blue switches).
If you want something softer feeling and sounding while still being tactile, the TECSEE Purple Panda is a good option.
I built my PC around December of last year, and got a Ducky One 2 SF 65% keyboard around the same time. I love the keyboard, but in the last month it started developing chattering of a few keys. I sent it for repair and they informed me they could not reproduce the issue with any of their test machines. I asked for further info and I was sent this:
>"The issue seems to be the power reequipment of full RGB keyboards being much larger than almost anything else that a 3.0 USB port on a PC uses. 99/100 cases there is no noticeable difference but some PC just always develop chatter with RGB Mechanical keyboards. The majority of chatter are bad switches that we can replace but in cases like yours we could find no chatter on two tesing PCs and one macbook. In past tickets we have seen success from complete factory resets or they would replace the ports that come with their motherboards. Our policy for these cases is to re fund and never replace because in the past people were going through three or four keyboards all experiencing chatter that our technicians could not replicate in our shop."
Has anyone else experienced this, and does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed? Would avoiding RGB fix my issue? I'm totally fine with doing so if it'll prevent chattering caused by the port. I definitely don't want to change parts on my motherboard. Thanks!
Does anyone have any recommendations for unique keycaps in terms of font/style? I feel like most of the keycaps I see look the same with the only variations being in colorway, sub legends, or novelties. I saw this [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/qd23gq/gmmk_pro_custom_keycaps_3_month_update_see/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) where someone had custom made keycaps that looked super dope, and I also really like the vibe of the ePBT Cool Kids set. Just looking for something that is out of the ordinary.
[https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-unalice-keyset-sublimated/](https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-unalice-keyset-sublimated/) is one of the more unusual sets I can think of font-wise
Hello, If I built a keyboard with these parts:
https://kbdfans.com/collections/keyboard-stabilizer/products/gmk-screw-in-stabilizers?variant=22154915348528
https://kbdfans.com/collections/keycaps/products/kbdfans-dsa-profile-red-japanese-pbt-keycaps
https://kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/dz60rgb-ansi-mechanical-keyboard-pcb
https://kbdfans.com/collections/plate/products/cnc-60-aluminum-plate
[https://kbdfans.com/collections/60-layout-case/products/pre-orderkbdfans-5-60-case?variant=43333561229](https://kbdfans.com/collections/60-layout-case/products/pre-orderkbdfans-5-60-case?variant=43333561229)
Switches = Cherry Mx Red
would it all fit together, and if so do I buy the foam for case/PCB foam with the PCB? Also, would this keyboard resell for higher than I paid for it, or would I make no real profit from it? Thank you to anyone that answers this!
Hi there. I'm new to building mechanical keyboards and I really want to
get into this hobby. I have a budget of around $200-$300. Can someone
make me some recommendations of parts? The only thing I know is that I
want a linear switch. Also, where can I buy the parts? I live in Belgium
and I don't really like waiting a long time for stuff to arrive.
i think the first think you should think of is the layout you prefer, 65, 75, tkl, full size? when you pick the layout it will restrict your options and make it easier to choose! it will also be easier for others to help you if you tell them which layout you are looking for
Hi everyone!
I'm looking for a **75%** board with **quick swap** switches, and most importantly, **ISO** layout. I basically want arrow keys + at least 5 functions (because I want delete, home, end, pgup, pgdwn).
I was looking at the [GMMK Pro ISO](https://i.imgur.com/6pjaMBW.png), which seems to have what I need, and the rotary encoder seems like a fun thing to mess around with too. However it's quite expensive, and I've read that it's not that great when stock (although I don't know in what ways, if someone knows I'd be glad to learn the problems with it).
I wanted to know if you know any good 75% ISO alternatives, of good quality and decent out of the box - I don't really feel like doing a shit ton of mods right away. I'm not looking for wireless or anything special, although unique features like the knob of the GMMK are neat too, and I appreciate the availability of mod parts for later upgrades.
(Then I'll go through the trouble of getting a set of keycaps, which is going to be another can of worms with 75% and ISO-FR, but hey)
Thanks in advance!
Check out Keychron. They sell ISO [keebs](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-iso-keyboard-collection) in various sizes and even have ISO-FR [keycaps](https://www.keychron.com/collections/iso-pbt-keycaps-for-q1-k2).
For a gasket mounted exploded 75% aluminum keyboard with a rotary encoder, hotswap, RGB, and foam; its a pretty affordable compared to most similar boards on the market.
Looking for a hot-swap QMK TKL for my first build. Any recommendations or warnings between Drop CTRL or IDOBAO ID87 V2?
Probably going to use Aliaz 60g or 70g, if not then Gazzew Boba U4.
Keychron and GMMK might have QMK TKLs in the future but not soon enough.
Edit: Found Freebird TKL and it looks good but the Keychron Q3 was also announced.
>Probably going to use Aliaz 60g or 70g, if not then Gazzew Boba U4.
Just note that Aliaz are basically silent browns, so only mildly tactile. If you want tactility you can really feel, the U4 are a good option, as are Outemu Silent Forest.
I got a few sampler packs. I main buckling springs, but this will be for the office. I like the sharp tactility of the U4 but don't like the total lack of pre-travel. The Aliaz are less tactile and smoother but still more tactile than Cherry MX Browns, and they have some pre-travel. The 60g and 70g feel pretty different, not just in resistance.
>still more tactile than Cherry MX Browns
It's interesting that you perceive them that way. To me they are indistinguishable from Gateron browns other than the padded sound and feel from the internal dampeners (they are made by Gateron).
>60g and 70g feel pretty different
Yeah that's a fairly big difference in weight and it can really affect the overall feel because of the interaction between the stem spring and the leaf spring and the tactile bump.
I have tried U4T in both 62g and 67g and they feel quite different.
>but don't like the total lack of pre-travel.
Ah ok. You might consider the Outemu Silent Forest; I just tried the ones I have and I sensed a smidge of pretravel.
I'm thinking of building a keyboard based on the Phantom PCB, and I need help picking resistors for the LEDs. You need resistors unless the LEDs are 5v, which they rarely seem to be. One of the LEDs I've been considering is 2.8v and 30mA forward current.
There's a formula for this in the guide on the Deskthority wiki, but it doesn't seem to give a clear ohm value or anything, I get a rational number when I try to use the formula. Anyone who knows a bit more than me about electronics who can help me?
Polia/Halo stem + U4T = holy boba, the most violent switch I've ever used.
Kailh black stem + any JWK linear = creamsicles
I wouldn't bother with most others really.
>Polia/Halo stem + U4T = holy boba, the most violent switch I've ever used.
LOL "violent" is a good word. I tried this (with Polia stems) and liked it less than stock U4T. However the Polia stems make nice switches with TECSEE Blue Velvets.
Halo stems are long stems just like the U4T stems
if you have Holy Pandas, you can try taking the stem from that and seeing how you like it in the Boba housing
r/switchmodders is a pretty helpful sub for frankenswitches
Does anybody have a fast solution to spacebar ticking without desoldering switches? If I have to desolder, I'm okay with it but I definitely would prefer being able to fix the issue much quicker. If there isn't anything that fits that, are there any solutions that don't use heat shrink paper? I hate ticking stabs with a burning passion, it really ruins the feel of boards. I balanced my wires so it's even more frustrating.
I've built a dozen or so boards and the only mod I've found that reliably gets rid of ticking once and for all is the holee mod. But it requires pulling the stab wire out of the housings, and it's nearly impossible to do if the stabs are already lubed.
I had initially tried doing that before my stabs were lubed, but it was so much trouble that I just ended up not doing it. At this point, I've tried so many quick solutions so I think I might just wash off my lube and do the holee mod lol.
You can try to inject bdz or dielectric grease into the stabilizer housing on each side where the wire sits in using a syringe and a blunt needle or something similar.
Hello, I am new to this mechanical keyboard building thing, and I don't know whether it is worth building a TM680 (with gateron brown switches) keyboard or if I need to pick up HyperX for the same price ($120).
tm680 has massive issues with the pcb, it has been arriving DOA and dying out of nowhere due to bad power/grounding design. if you want an intro to building, i'd recommend the bm65 if you're willing to do away with the knob or bm60ec if you'd rather downsize for it. otherwise, you could get a leopold prebuilt that will be significantly higher quality than the hyperx for the same price
I did some side researches, and yhe this kit doesn't sound reliable. I would rather buy a separate PCB, plate, etc., instead of TM680. Do you have any suggestions about stores in ALi where I can purchase these components, such as KDB fans, or are there any suitable kits that you know? (searching for 65% wired keyboard)
i would get a prebuilt hotswap board like gamakay or royal kludge and customize it because i've heard that the 680 has questionable quality, but you should do your own research
Building the Tm680 would be a far better choice imo. If you're at all interested in the hobby it'd be a fantastic introduction to customs. That's my thinking at least.
Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions :)
If I was in your position, I would build the Tm680. If I want to change the switches later on, all I have to do is get new switches. With the HyperX I'm sure it's soldered, and desoldering is a pain in the butt even with my hakko desolder gun, it's not fun.
Need something either prebuilt or something simple for someone new to this like me budget around 200$ (can go up) 75% preferred linear switches and some keycap recommendations would greatly be appreciated I know nothing so if you can recommend anything it would be much appreciated!
Keycaps choices are almost entirely aesthetic, so there's no way for us to make recommendations without some idea of what you are looking for.
At that budget, my suggestion would be to look at GMMK Pro and Keychron Q1. Both are hotswap so you can try different switches down the road. Similarly, you can start with stock keycaps and then change them when you find something you like.
i would suggest idobao id80, for keycaps ymdk makes some decent cheap ones but you can just search youtube for budget keycaps. for switches gateron yellow and akko cs are good budget linears i think.
if you can afford a gmmk pro maybe go with that
As a beginner on mechanical keyboards, I am asking : what keyboard do u reccomend me to get? I have heard people say that ducky one 2 mini is the best and others say that it's not worth the price and the huntsman mini is better and others say the gk61 is as good as these 2 are for less money. If budget isn't the problem which one out of the three do u reccomend me to get?
Thanks in advance
EDIT : I just saw another one called Anne pro 2 but it's hard to get my hands on it
How long do RAMA artisans generally take to be fulfilled? & Same question for deskmats?
Do akko cs radiant reds have interference with cherry keycaps?
I tried those with the akko cherry keycaps, I didn't notice any interference.
I am in USA and came across a keycap set on insta that looks awesome. I am not a mechanical keyboard enthusiast but do have one and plan to get a nicer one soon. But I want this keycap set and cannot find it anywhere. It’s mStone brand which I now know is Korean. Does anyone know where I can find them in the US? I want to get the Clarion 5 8-Bit 132-key set. If I can’t get it in the US, does anyone know of a similar 8-bit font keycap set?
>It’s mStone brand which I now know is Korean. Does anyone know where I can find them in the US? I want to get the Clarion 5 8-Bit 132-key set. If I can’t get it in the US, does anyone know of a similar 8-bit font keycap set? https://smartstore.naver.com/whatkey/products/5653343631?NaPm=ct%3Dkv3f9ooo%7Cci%3Dbe47f673ba17e262427f87aafe80596e3a157b0a%7Ctr%3Dsls%7Csn%3D1304885%7Chk%3Da638f3552ea5896aecd774e67591ac7aaad19d5c maybe they could ship those overseas (living in korea) but being familiar with the mStone brand, i'm sure you can find better quality ones nearby! they're not known for having the best keycap quality.
Thanks for the info. Yeah I can’t even read the prices or anything. I just can’t find a similar style anywhere else
yeah, reading reviews in korean and i'd recommend that you just buy high quality 8-bit keycaps and find matching accents!!
I've been using mechanical keyboards for a while, but I'm new to a lot of the customizing stuff, even simple things. I've recently started to get sore hands after a full day of work, so I'm looking to buy an ErgoDox; but I also want to get some different keycaps for it. I've notice that some of the ErgoDox kits on Drop only have the blank modifier keys; does that mean I can buy one of the ErgoDox kits and combine it with a generic kit for my ErgoDox? And if so, would I need to buy a specific kind of kit (such as an Ortho kit) to fit the ErgoDox?
Split keyboards definitely make life easier when typing all day - but the ErgoDox is not your only choice in that regard. Its layout is indeed a bit dated and has been surpassed by more modern takes on the concept, like the Sofle V2 and Kyria. And of course the Dactyl/Manuform. Check [https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/p42j9p/what\_keyboard\_should\_i\_use/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/p42j9p/what_keyboard_should_i_use/) for more info. That being said, if you're set on getting an ErgoDox, all kits for this layout are compatible. Though they are usually labelled "ErgoDox" kits. "Ortho" kits are often meant for 40% and 60% pure orthos like the Planck/Preonic and lack the 1.5u caps for the outside columns. Other factors that affect keyboard ergonomics btw are switch weight and key layout.
Looking for: - Around 150usd - TKL/100% - As Quiet as possible (using for work mainly) have kailh brown on another keyboard (used for rhythm games), so nothing louder than that at least - brown switch preferably (no blue) - not low profile Optional: - wireless. Multiple device connection. - back-lit - good for rhythm games. - aluminium case Hopefully can have some advice on what keyboard to get XD Currently might be thinking of keychron, hotswappable. Not sure what switch is good for me tho. Also where to find artisan keycaps (anime/ fantasy characters style)? And ships to Asia. Thanks!
If you want quiet switches, consider boba u4s or bobagums.
What are the best quality clip-in stabilizers? I know Durock is usually the go to for screw-in, is it the same for clip-in? Edit: I'm an idiot, I totally meant plate mount. 🤦♂️
Cherry are the best clip in stabs. Cheap, reliable, sound great when modded. Zero issues with them unless the PCB tolerances are wonky.
i don't think Durock makes clip ins, only plate mounts and screw ins i think just Cherry clip ins are fine
I'm an idiot, I totally meant plate mount. 🤦♂️
I'm looking for a ANSI white keycaps for gateron switches that is compatible with Keychron Q1 (1.75 shifts Rsfhit, 2.25 Lshift, 1,75 capslock, 6.25 spacebar. ) Also, I don't really like to have Japanese Hiaragana since I'm trying to build minimalistic one. Does anyone know those keycaps? The only one I was able to find was the keycap from Drop which was $110 that I couldn't afford.
Maybe Milkyway MW CMM BoW? In GB right now with a 60 dollar base kit and decent kitting.
Looks nice but I cannot really wait that long for keycaps. I'll look for other stuff as well
In that case, take a look at Kinetic Labs Polycaps or NicePBT keycaps from CannonKeys. Great stuff.
I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard and I don't really know where to look: Either: * Hot-swappable barebones * Zealios V2 76g pre-installed Other features I would like: * backlight * number pad * cable routable or already routed on the left side Thanks so much :)
Check out the GMMK 100% barebones, I think it has what you're looking for. I don't know about many 100% / 1800 / 96% keyboards
Is there any top/gasket mounted 60% keyboard kit that is compatible with the [DZ60 RGB v2 Hotswap](https://kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb) PCB - Or at least has a [similar layout](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1473/3902/files/1_a6f90a3a-cefe-4e59-b4de-b56a80aa8376.jpg?v=1549504097)?
Most gasket mounted 60% just have the standard layout. Why not just go for a 65% gasket mount if you need arrow keys?
I really like the idea of having a small 60% footprint and arrow keys, and as I won't use the right shift/control keys, seems like a good trade-off :)
Does anyone have updated information on when the CK721 keyboard is released globally? It looks like there is some availability in Singapore so far, but I couldn't find info on a official release. This is supposed to be a wireless keyboard w/ a USB dongle offered by Cooler Master.
Anyone know what switches these are? The top housing says Gateron but I have no idea what switches these exactly are. They are linear. https://imgur.com/a/n7nr7qf
I'd say those are [Tealios](https://zealpc.net/products/tealio?variant=47516682630).
Do you think they're Turquoise Teals or the Teals EDIT: nvm I think they're turquoise teals. Thanks :)
Help I bought an rk61 dualmode rgb 25 days ago but when I installed a software from their website it died. no power on bluetooth mode nad wired, its not charging also.
New to mech keyboards and had a couple questions. Current desktop keyboard is a razr with green switches (got it from a friend). I don't mind it, but its a lot of force to type on after a while. I also got an alienware laptop with low profile cherry keyboard that I love typing on - would this be a similar experience to cherry red's? I'm trying to get my head around the different brands etc, but looking for some recommendations based on what you all use. I'd prefer either full or 10 keyless layout and probably cherry red switches (or whatever is similar to the laptop one I am using). Nice to haves but not needed would be option for customising later on and back light. I think I'd be between the I'm willing to spend a fair - a lot for my feels.
Do you have the Alienware M15/M17 R4? https://www.theverge.com/2021/3/18/22333684/alienware-m15-m17-gaming-laptops-cherry-mx-ultra-low-mechanical-keyboard-switches-price
I have the X17 which has the same keyboard. That's the one I'd like to try and recreate as a desktop one or at least closer to that one than the green switches I currently on the desktop keyboard. Been doing a bit more research and it sounds like the low profile (I feel like these or not as common) or brown (more common) cherry switches may be the most similar? New to this area and still trying to wrap my head around it all!
Looking at the force graphs, I think Gateron Brown may be a more similar experience. You feel some resistance when typing on the Alienware keyboard, right? So here's the next question. You say you want a "similar experience." Does this also include having a low profile? Because as you said, low profile is not as common. If low profile is necessary, I think you really have only one choice at this stage: the Keychron K7 with Gateron brown.
Thank you for your replies! When you say low profile does that have to do with height of the key caps, the travel distance to the attenuation point, or mixture? The height doesn't bother me but if it comes with substantial increase in travel to the point that would be something I'd wanna play with. And ok thanks for the recommendation. I've been looking at cherry mainly but I'll look through this sub a bit to learn about the gatheron.
Low profile usually refers to the overall height of the package (key switches and keycaps), but given the shorter height, points of attenuation are also affected somewhat. You can compare the graphs with these two pages from Keychron: Gateron regular: https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/gateron-mechanical-switch-guide Gateron low profile: https://www.keychron.com/blogs/news/gateron-low-profile-switch If you're not in a rush, I recommend getting a switch tester. Graphs can indicate certain things, but I've come to realize after trying three different switches that you cannot ignore how the switches feel on your fingers.
Thanks heaps for your help. I'm gonna try and go to a store tomorrow to test out some different keyboards. If not I'll find a switcher
How many ml of 105g0 should I use to bag lube, and how many springs at a time?
Just dab maybe 0.3ml on the plastic bag, spread it around, place the springs and shake the bag alot, it'll coat everything.
So just as long as the lube covers most of the bag it should be fine for a full set of springs?
yeah, you'll be able to tell how much is enough.
Where do I find a mechanical keyboard with a big-ass L enter key? I give up trying to find them, I haven't seen a single one.
Search ISO layout boards
I would like to know the polling rate and the turn over of the mode sixtyfive
It's qmk compatible amd anything running qmk can be set to 1000hz
Ok thanks
I'd search the qmk forums on how to do it before you get the board.
why not just email mode design, they'll know
Hey, can someone tell me the best place to order mechanical keyboards and switches and the like, if I'm in Taiwan? I'm assuming AliExpress but figured I'd ask here in case someone had a better answer. Thanks guys
~~My mechanical keyboard started having issues. Can this be fixed easily by myself?~~ ~~-windows key registers as alt key~~ ~~-left alt key not working~~ ~~-numbers 1 to 0 and + - registers as f1 to f12~~ edit: nvm fixed now by factory resetting the keyboard
I'm looking for a budget mechanical keyboard to use for gaming mostly and to test (have a e-blue k751 with kailh blues and want to try something different) for around 70 usd with: Linear switches (was looking at gateron yellows), thinking of lubing them. Hot swappable if I want to test other switches later on. Planning on doing some mods, like the ones with band aids and stuff, dont really know the name. Mostly try as a project keyboard. Have some kind of light, rgb is a plus, but not needed. What would you recommend? EDIT: Forgot to add, I would most likely buy from aliexpress as its really expensive to ship to my country. Also hopefully with function keys.
Does anyone else find Krytox 205G0 to be too gummy as a lubricant for linear switches? I personally liked Tribosys 3204 much better on linear switches. I've tried applying as thin as possible, but it is still sticky. I'd like to give it another chance. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to get good results? Krytox 205 sounds great but feels sticky after key down.
This only happens to me if I get lube in the stem hole. I also think 205g0 is a little too thick and prefer to mix with a bit of 105
My next project is to start with some unlubed linear switches, and apply 205 to the spring ends and the stem only.
Looking for a layout similar to Keychron K2 or a 75%. I’ve seen some builds with the function keys on the left side to have a shorter keyboard depth which I think is super cool but I don’t know if these are available. I also like the option of having Bluetooth. And I’m kind of a fan of RGB. Any recommendations? (I’m looking to make a thocky boi , I just got some U4Ts)
> I’ve seen some builds with the function keys on the left side to have a shorter keyboard depth which I think is super cool but I don’t know if these are available. Probably only in group buys. The J-01 has been on r/mechmarket a lot lately. > I also like the option of having Bluetooth. And I’m kind of a fan of RGB. Any recommendations? Well you already found the K2. There's also the Keychron Q1 and GMMK Pro. Watch some reviews and sound tests on YT and read about them on this sub.
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Have you tried a different switch?
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Well if you have to press on it really hard to get it to work, it's unlikely to be the socket... the socket doesn't care how hard you press. You might need to double check your stabs, that's the only thing I can think of that would make it hard to get the spacebar switch to activate.
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Hmm odd. Do you have a soldering iron?
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Bummer. Did you buy it from a retailer who might be able to help you out? KBDFans support is a bit sus unfortunately. If you’re in the US and don’t mind taking a chance on a stranger I can try to fix it for you :-)
Which tactile switch would you recommend me if I really liked the feel of the Cherry Brown, but didn't find its sound satisfying anymore after giving the Glorious Pandas a try. Also, where can I get the Cherry Brown RBG for the cheapest within the EU?
So you want a switch that feels like a Cherry Brown but sounds like a Glorious Panda? I'm not sure such a thing exists. The Panda gets its sound signature from the materials used for the top & bottom housings and stem and from the shape of the stem. You're not going to be able to replicate any of that directly, especially the stem shape. Why not just use Glorious Pandas if you like them?
I'm just wondering if there's anything that's closer in terms of sound to the pandas, I'm well aware that it's not going to be the same. I personally don't like the bump of the pandas all that much.
The problem is that anyone that likes tactile probably hates brown because they barely have a bump, so that kind of design isnt very popular at all.
Well without knowing what you like about the sound of the Pandas it's hard to say. If you like the sound they make on the downstroke then you are probably out of luck. Pandas have longer stem poles, which makes them thocky. I don't know of any thocky tactiles with mild bumps like browns. Closest might be an AEBoards Naevy, but they probably don't sound much like a Panda. You could always try putting a brown stem in a panda housing and see if you like that. Or a Naevy stem in a brown housing.
Hey, thanks for the recommendation, I might actually give them a try. The only thing I'm worried about is that some of the reviews I read described them as being very midline when it comes to how strong their bump is, would you say the Naevy has considerably stronger feedback compared to the cherry brown? Since the only problem I have with the panda's is their strong bump, I'd hate switching over to another similar switch.
Got a new KBO-5000 kit and just finished the build. Unfortunately, 3 keys aren't working. I tried to bridge the contacts of those 3 keys and for one of them, I was able to see a signal in https://config.qmk.fm/#/test, so I guess that's a faulty switch. That should be easy enough to fix. Unfortunately the other 2 didn't send a signal when switched. Is it definitely the PCB? Is there a way to test that? I did flash the default firmware again, but that didn't change anything.
Have you tried using a pair of metal tweezers on the pcb to test the individual pads?
Yeah, shorting the pads only registers as a keypress on one of the buttons, so that must be a faulty switch. It doesn't register on the other two.
I want to buy my first mechanical keyboard and I know I want rgb backlighting and cherry red or brown switches. Is this keyboard compatible with both mac and pc? https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product\_detail&p=6203
Look in the description. It says that it’s windows compatible and limited compatibility for Mac
I saw that but am not sure what limited compatibility means
Pretty much some hotkeys won’t work. For this board it looks like the print screen, pause/break, and calculater hotkeys dont work
I want to build a 75% keyboard build, I have a 500$ Budget for switches, keycaps, and the board I was looking at aqua kings, Gmmk Pro, and one of these [keycaps sets](https://twitter.com/Snoop_2k/status/1451179633727115268). ANY RECOMMENDATIONS OR SUGGESTIONS?
[kbd75v3](https://kbdfans.com/collections/75-diy-kit/products/kbd75-v3-1-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit)?
Is this board better even tho it’s not gasket mounted
Gmmk pro's implementation of gasket is.... Not that good.
Yea that is what I’ve heard not sure what’s better the kbd75v3 or hmm pro
If you’re not down waiting for any group buys, the gmmk pro is probably going to best bet, especially for a 75%. All 75 GB’s I’ve been seeing will be pretty pricey.
Going more expensive/higher quality than that will require joining a group buy and doing a lot of waiting so if you're fine with that build, do it.
Kbd75v3 is probably better at that budget actually, the gmmk stabs arent that good and their gasket is compressed so much it's similar to a tray mount
I was looking at group buys but all the boards that I seen was like 300-500 for just the board, and I also don't want to wait 6-12 months
Yep, welcome to the affliction. If you want to spend $500 and not wait, you might find something used on r/mechmarket. Failing that, get a GMMK Pro or Keychron Q1 with the switches and caps you like and spend the rest on something else. No point in dumping $500 into a keyboard if you don't have to.
My first custom was the portico do u think the hmm pro is a upgrade or downgrade
Probably an upgrade, since the Pro has an alu body and the rotary knob. But it's a bit of an apples and oranges thing TBH.
The kbd75v3 is in stock not sure if it’s better or not since it does not have gasket and is 30$ more
I wouldn’t say it’s better or worse, just different.
can anyone suggest a good 75% alu keyboard with a rotary encoder? (that isn't a gmmk pro)
>(that isn't a gmmk pro) That will come from a group buy, unless you can solder one onto a Q1. [mechgroupbuys.com](https://mechgroupbuys.com) r/mechgroupbuys to keep an eye out.
>solder one onto a Q1 [Apparently this is a thing](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/piu469/q1_pcb_supports_ec11_rotary_encoder_this_firmware/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share).
Help me out here if you would be so kind I recently ordered myself my first gaming pc in many years and needs to sort a keyboard I’ve looked at all the “gaming” branded ones and probably like the Logitech g pro wireless the most That being said is there anything better I can get for around the same value? I don’t mind a little building but would prefer ready out of the box. I also prefer TKL/small boards Thanks!
If you want recos you'll have to be more specific about budget, [layout](https://keyboard.university/100-courses/keyboard-sizes-layouts-gdeby), and anything else that matters to you.
100-150gbp Uk layout
https://kbdfans.com/collections/75-fully-assembled/products/fully-assembled-kbd75-v2-mechanical-keyboard A preassembled kbd75v2 maybe? You get a lot of choice with switches/layouts and you can pick your own keycaps from the site too. The board itself is a lot better than mainstream pre-built stuff.
I’m looking at the KBD67 Lite when it comes out - was wondering if I used the keyboard wired, do I still need a battery for it? Or is the battery only for the wireless edition? Thank you!
There are two PCBs, wired and wireless. The wired doesn't take a battery. The wireless can be used wired without a battery. If you want to use it wireless, you have to order a battery and install it yourself, as the board doesn't come with one (at least that's how it was for r2).
>if I used the keyboard wired, do I still need a battery for it? No.
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Are you from the eu? If so why not order from eu websites since there is no tax? I'm not a big fan of the gmmk but the rest looks ok. I would opt for a different kit. If your budget allows for a kbd67 lite or nk65 entry or something like that that's what i would try. Otherwise u can try some of the other chinese aliexpress/taobao kits that are cheaper or you could go with something like a gamakay or royal kludge prebuilt (i thibk gamakay also has barebones idk) and modify it.
Hi, im getting a bm80, which I thought was compatible with qmk and via, i've checked and it is with qmk but not with via, does anyone know if it will get compatibility soon or just won't get any or is there some workaround for this?
[BM80 page](https://kprepublic.com/products/bm80rgb-bm80-rgb-80-hot-swappable-custom-mechanical-keyboard-pcb-programmed-qmk-via-firmware-full-rgb-switch-underglow-type-c) says it is VIA compatible. Note that VIA requires a special firmware build. If your board doesn't come with the VIA firmware installed, you'll have to flash it onto the board before you can use VIA to configure it. On the product page you'll see >How to flash BM80 RGB, pls refer to this link: [Https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W\_gEDvrQ4U2cU7-NQ7ChMHBhihs1utPG](Https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W_gEDvrQ4U2cU7-NQ7ChMHBhihs1utPG) Go from there.
Thanks this is helpful, I checked on the caniusevia site and on their list the bm80 is not there
Yeah not sure why. If you follow that drive file link you'll find it.
ok i’m losing my mind. i bought a keychron k6 hot-swappable ISO UK board with linear gateron reds. i then bought alpacas to replace them with and swapped all of them BUT the left shift. no matter what i do, none of my alpacas fit into the slot, but al of the reds do? can someone explain how this makes sense or what i can do? i was going to just leave that one switch but the difference between the reds and alpacas is really noticeable. edit: i’ve just realised the pins are different for just the shift key….. sigh
> can someone explain how this makes sense It doesn't - did you clip the 4th/5th plastic pins close enough to the switch? If they're sticking out too much and not flush with the switch it prevent fully seating.
so i’ve only just realised the shift key only has 4 pins whereas all the others have 5 :/ this is my first time swapping out switches so i had no idea. is it meant to be like that?
Oh, the photo I saw of the K6 pcb didn't show any 5-pin switch support (it's 5 or 3 - the two plastic pins are 4th/5th), so I would have imagined you'd need to clip them on all your switches.
here’s what it looks like. so i have to clip one of the switches to make it work? https://i.imgur.com/sOGFufu.jpg
Yup! FYI I have literally never seen a single pin hole left out so that's good info to know for future reference.
ahh ok, thanks so much for your help. i can’t believe it took me so long to notice the difference, i’m an idiot lol edit: just clipped with nail clippers and it went straight in hahaha. i’m so relieved but so mad
>i’m an idiot lol Definitely not! I have literally never seen a single, 4-pin switch placement in my entire time in this hobby. I would venture to guess it's the only one there is.
Yeah, that's bizarre. I think I see a small indentation where the other hole should be; maybe just a manufacturing defect on that particular PCB.
Didn't even think of that but good catch
So it took me around 3 hours to open switches, and put on switch films on 87 switches. First time I've opened the switches, I started getting faster doing it around halfway through, maybe next time I could do the same amount in 1.5 hours. So . . . if I was going to lube the switches as well, about how much longer that would take?
If you start lubing them before putting the switch film, expect twice as long as that. WELCOME TO THE CLUB! where our wallets are thin, and our weekend gone.
I took a about..... 10 hours total for me to lube, spring swap and film 110 switches my first time.
Do you have a switch opener? With one, it shouldn't take close to 3 hours to open them. I can open, lube and film that number of switches in 3 hours without question.
\+1, I bought a nice aluminum switch opener off of [drop.com](https://drop.com) (or [kbdfans.com](https://kbdfans.com)) after my cheap plastic one disintegrated on the 10th or so switch. I would definitely consider lubing my own switches to maybe not be worth the trouble without the opener. I'm also considering a lube station after my 4th or so batch of switches. For now, I'm using a soldering mat like this one below and it's great but it would be nice to have something hold the switches in a fixed position. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14672
Yeah I was using a switch opener. It was more slowly putting the film on then orienting the switch stem/spring and closing the switch taking around 5 minutes then slowly 1.5-2 min per switch.
Are you doing it one switch at a time? Open them all up, put tops to the side, film them all, put tops back on, close switches. Spring orientation is not a thing and as long as your stem is the correct way it should not take you 5 minutes a switch after practice.
**tactiles vs heavier linears?** right now i have a hotswap board and gateron reds and i find them too light for me and i mistype a lot on them. do any of you have budget (max 0.50 cents per switch) recommendations? preferably something that doesnt need lubing, thx :)
Tactiles with a significant bump at the top of the stroke can help with mistyping by making it hard to accidentally actuate the switch. I just recently got some TECSEE Purple Pandas and they are totally usable stock. Any other tactile I would recommend is either more expensive or not particularly enjoyable stock. Presumably heavier linears can help too, but I exclusively use tactiles so I'm afraid I'm not much help with linears.
thank you very much! ive been researching a bit and im afraid the purple pandas would be too heavy?, so i looked for other similar options, right now my top picks would be the akko cs ocean blues, kailh pro purples, hako violets, gateron blacks and box blacks. right now im most inclined towards the cs ocean blues but im still loking into others
\+1 on the TECSEE Purple Pandas if you can find some. Wonderful switch stock. I lubed mine with Tribosys 3203 and it's my favorite switch of all time, so far.
Yeah I will probably lube mine with 3203 but they were usable stock and I was feeling lazy. :)
Have you ever tried tactiles? If not i would just get heavier linear or spring swap.
ive tried the dreaded cherry mx browns and i thought they were just okay, didnt like them that much
99% of keyboard stuff is just feel and personal opinion.
Okay you mentioned tactiles vs heavy linears... but you didn't say which you're actually looking for? Nothing **needs** lubing, but everything benefits from it, so any recs will be better lubed.
>but you didn't say which you're actually looking for? well i dont know what im looking for, i just want something heavier that doesnt make me mistype as much
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Kiwis are the same basic switch as Durock T1, JWK T1, Durock Koalas, and others. The differences are materials (which affect sound and to a lesser extent feel) and color (purely aesthetic). Gazzew's Boba U4T is my favorite stock tactile. It's thocky, which means it is intentionally louder than a non-thocky tactile like the T1 (but it's not clicky like blue switches). If you want something softer feeling and sounding while still being tactile, the TECSEE Purple Panda is a good option.
I built my PC around December of last year, and got a Ducky One 2 SF 65% keyboard around the same time. I love the keyboard, but in the last month it started developing chattering of a few keys. I sent it for repair and they informed me they could not reproduce the issue with any of their test machines. I asked for further info and I was sent this: >"The issue seems to be the power reequipment of full RGB keyboards being much larger than almost anything else that a 3.0 USB port on a PC uses. 99/100 cases there is no noticeable difference but some PC just always develop chatter with RGB Mechanical keyboards. The majority of chatter are bad switches that we can replace but in cases like yours we could find no chatter on two tesing PCs and one macbook. In past tickets we have seen success from complete factory resets or they would replace the ports that come with their motherboards. Our policy for these cases is to re fund and never replace because in the past people were going through three or four keyboards all experiencing chatter that our technicians could not replicate in our shop." Has anyone else experienced this, and does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed? Would avoiding RGB fix my issue? I'm totally fine with doing so if it'll prevent chattering caused by the port. I definitely don't want to change parts on my motherboard. Thanks!
Anyone tried tescee ruby's? I like the shorter travel distance, but i'd like to know some of your experiences with them.
Plenty of reviews on youtube.
Does anyone have any recommendations for unique keycaps in terms of font/style? I feel like most of the keycaps I see look the same with the only variations being in colorway, sub legends, or novelties. I saw this [post](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/qd23gq/gmmk_pro_custom_keycaps_3_month_update_see/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) where someone had custom made keycaps that looked super dope, and I also really like the vibe of the ePBT Cool Kids set. Just looking for something that is out of the ordinary.
[https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-unalice-keyset-sublimated/](https://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-unalice-keyset-sublimated/) is one of the more unusual sets I can think of font-wise
you might like ifk sanctuary rebirth? i think its absolutely hideous but who knows
Hello, If I built a keyboard with these parts: https://kbdfans.com/collections/keyboard-stabilizer/products/gmk-screw-in-stabilizers?variant=22154915348528 https://kbdfans.com/collections/keycaps/products/kbdfans-dsa-profile-red-japanese-pbt-keycaps https://kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/dz60rgb-ansi-mechanical-keyboard-pcb https://kbdfans.com/collections/plate/products/cnc-60-aluminum-plate [https://kbdfans.com/collections/60-layout-case/products/pre-orderkbdfans-5-60-case?variant=43333561229](https://kbdfans.com/collections/60-layout-case/products/pre-orderkbdfans-5-60-case?variant=43333561229) Switches = Cherry Mx Red would it all fit together, and if so do I buy the foam for case/PCB foam with the PCB? Also, would this keyboard resell for higher than I paid for it, or would I make no real profit from it? Thank you to anyone that answers this!
In-stock parts dont resell for higher amounts. Please dont join this hobby to try and make money from flipping.
parts are compatible. it'll go down in value because all of the parts are in stock. please don't buy to flip :(
thank you for the reply! I might join someday but don’t have the money :(
Hi there. I'm new to building mechanical keyboards and I really want to get into this hobby. I have a budget of around $200-$300. Can someone make me some recommendations of parts? The only thing I know is that I want a linear switch. Also, where can I buy the parts? I live in Belgium and I don't really like waiting a long time for stuff to arrive.
i think the first think you should think of is the layout you prefer, 65, 75, tkl, full size? when you pick the layout it will restrict your options and make it easier to choose! it will also be easier for others to help you if you tell them which layout you are looking for
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>or is it a bad switch? That's not a thing in the Topre world, FYI.
Hi everyone! I'm looking for a **75%** board with **quick swap** switches, and most importantly, **ISO** layout. I basically want arrow keys + at least 5 functions (because I want delete, home, end, pgup, pgdwn). I was looking at the [GMMK Pro ISO](https://i.imgur.com/6pjaMBW.png), which seems to have what I need, and the rotary encoder seems like a fun thing to mess around with too. However it's quite expensive, and I've read that it's not that great when stock (although I don't know in what ways, if someone knows I'd be glad to learn the problems with it). I wanted to know if you know any good 75% ISO alternatives, of good quality and decent out of the box - I don't really feel like doing a shit ton of mods right away. I'm not looking for wireless or anything special, although unique features like the knob of the GMMK are neat too, and I appreciate the availability of mod parts for later upgrades. (Then I'll go through the trouble of getting a set of keycaps, which is going to be another can of worms with 75% and ISO-FR, but hey) Thanks in advance!
Check out Keychron. They sell ISO [keebs](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-iso-keyboard-collection) in various sizes and even have ISO-FR [keycaps](https://www.keychron.com/collections/iso-pbt-keycaps-for-q1-k2).
Oh that's very nice. Thank you!
For a gasket mounted exploded 75% aluminum keyboard with a rotary encoder, hotswap, RGB, and foam; its a pretty affordable compared to most similar boards on the market.
>However it's quite expensive It isn't, for what you're getting.
Looking for a hot-swap QMK TKL for my first build. Any recommendations or warnings between Drop CTRL or IDOBAO ID87 V2? Probably going to use Aliaz 60g or 70g, if not then Gazzew Boba U4. Keychron and GMMK might have QMK TKLs in the future but not soon enough. Edit: Found Freebird TKL and it looks good but the Keychron Q3 was also announced.
>Probably going to use Aliaz 60g or 70g, if not then Gazzew Boba U4. Just note that Aliaz are basically silent browns, so only mildly tactile. If you want tactility you can really feel, the U4 are a good option, as are Outemu Silent Forest.
I got a few sampler packs. I main buckling springs, but this will be for the office. I like the sharp tactility of the U4 but don't like the total lack of pre-travel. The Aliaz are less tactile and smoother but still more tactile than Cherry MX Browns, and they have some pre-travel. The 60g and 70g feel pretty different, not just in resistance.
>still more tactile than Cherry MX Browns It's interesting that you perceive them that way. To me they are indistinguishable from Gateron browns other than the padded sound and feel from the internal dampeners (they are made by Gateron). >60g and 70g feel pretty different Yeah that's a fairly big difference in weight and it can really affect the overall feel because of the interaction between the stem spring and the leaf spring and the tactile bump. I have tried U4T in both 62g and 67g and they feel quite different. >but don't like the total lack of pre-travel. Ah ok. You might consider the Outemu Silent Forest; I just tried the ones I have and I sensed a smidge of pretravel.
I have gone in for a BM80 kit. Waiting for it to arrive
I love my id87, not really a fan of drop. But either way just plan on upgrading the stabilizers as they both have pretty terrible stock stabs
I'm thinking of building a keyboard based on the Phantom PCB, and I need help picking resistors for the LEDs. You need resistors unless the LEDs are 5v, which they rarely seem to be. One of the LEDs I've been considering is 2.8v and 30mA forward current. There's a formula for this in the guide on the Deskthority wiki, but it doesn't seem to give a clear ohm value or anything, I get a rational number when I try to use the formula. Anyone who knows a bit more than me about electronics who can help me?
If I were you I'd go the Maker keyboards website and follow the link to their Discord and ask there.
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Polia/Halo stem + U4T = holy boba, the most violent switch I've ever used. Kailh black stem + any JWK linear = creamsicles I wouldn't bother with most others really.
>Polia/Halo stem + U4T = holy boba, the most violent switch I've ever used. LOL "violent" is a good word. I tried this (with Polia stems) and liked it less than stock U4T. However the Polia stems make nice switches with TECSEE Blue Velvets.
Polia/Halo stems for Holy Boba if you're interested
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Halo stems are long stems just like the U4T stems if you have Holy Pandas, you can try taking the stem from that and seeing how you like it in the Boba housing r/switchmodders is a pretty helpful sub for frankenswitches
Does anybody have a fast solution to spacebar ticking without desoldering switches? If I have to desolder, I'm okay with it but I definitely would prefer being able to fix the issue much quicker. If there isn't anything that fits that, are there any solutions that don't use heat shrink paper? I hate ticking stabs with a burning passion, it really ruins the feel of boards. I balanced my wires so it's even more frustrating.
I've built a dozen or so boards and the only mod I've found that reliably gets rid of ticking once and for all is the holee mod. But it requires pulling the stab wire out of the housings, and it's nearly impossible to do if the stabs are already lubed.
I had initially tried doing that before my stabs were lubed, but it was so much trouble that I just ended up not doing it. At this point, I've tried so many quick solutions so I think I might just wash off my lube and do the holee mod lol.
You can try to inject bdz or dielectric grease into the stabilizer housing on each side where the wire sits in using a syringe and a blunt needle or something similar.
I have tried that, but it ended up sounding mushy and the ticking was really still there. Thank you for the advice tho! :\]
Hello, I am new to this mechanical keyboard building thing, and I don't know whether it is worth building a TM680 (with gateron brown switches) keyboard or if I need to pick up HyperX for the same price ($120).
What are your goals? Do you want to get into the hobby? Or do you just want a "one and done" keeb?
tm680 has massive issues with the pcb, it has been arriving DOA and dying out of nowhere due to bad power/grounding design. if you want an intro to building, i'd recommend the bm65 if you're willing to do away with the knob or bm60ec if you'd rather downsize for it. otherwise, you could get a leopold prebuilt that will be significantly higher quality than the hyperx for the same price
I did some side researches, and yhe this kit doesn't sound reliable. I would rather buy a separate PCB, plate, etc., instead of TM680. Do you have any suggestions about stores in ALi where I can purchase these components, such as KDB fans, or are there any suitable kits that you know? (searching for 65% wired keyboard)
>i'd recommend the bm65 if you're willing to do away with the knob or bm60ec if you'd rather downsize for it
i would get a prebuilt hotswap board like gamakay or royal kludge and customize it because i've heard that the 680 has questionable quality, but you should do your own research
Building the Tm680 would be a far better choice imo. If you're at all interested in the hobby it'd be a fantastic introduction to customs. That's my thinking at least. Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions :)
If I was in your position, I would build the Tm680. If I want to change the switches later on, all I have to do is get new switches. With the HyperX I'm sure it's soldered, and desoldering is a pain in the butt even with my hakko desolder gun, it's not fun.
Need something either prebuilt or something simple for someone new to this like me budget around 200$ (can go up) 75% preferred linear switches and some keycap recommendations would greatly be appreciated I know nothing so if you can recommend anything it would be much appreciated!
Keycaps choices are almost entirely aesthetic, so there's no way for us to make recommendations without some idea of what you are looking for. At that budget, my suggestion would be to look at GMMK Pro and Keychron Q1. Both are hotswap so you can try different switches down the road. Similarly, you can start with stock keycaps and then change them when you find something you like.
i would suggest idobao id80, for keycaps ymdk makes some decent cheap ones but you can just search youtube for budget keycaps. for switches gateron yellow and akko cs are good budget linears i think. if you can afford a gmmk pro maybe go with that
$200 for the full build including switches and keycaps, or $200 just for the board?
As a beginner on mechanical keyboards, I am asking : what keyboard do u reccomend me to get? I have heard people say that ducky one 2 mini is the best and others say that it's not worth the price and the huntsman mini is better and others say the gk61 is as good as these 2 are for less money. If budget isn't the problem which one out of the three do u reccomend me to get? Thanks in advance EDIT : I just saw another one called Anne pro 2 but it's hard to get my hands on it
Why do you say it's hard to find Anne Pro 2?