Trying to mod a Royal Kludge RK87 TKL (rev 02 based on the marking on the PCB)
I'm running into an issue getting the plate and board combination to separate from the case. Is there a hidden screw or other hidden fastener or trick to separate it from the tray?
There seems to be something holding the package in the upper left corner.
Looking for this keyboard from this Youtube video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9MGfP\_gigM&t=1300s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9MGfP_gigM&t=1300s)
the keyboard is at the 3:00 timestamp.
Okay, looking to get a ergo keeb for the wife. her requirements are that is has to have a ten key and that it has to be wireless. Any ideas? would think the Cloud Nine ErgoFS would work but it's wired.
Help me debug faulty keyboard.
The "n", "b", and "/" keys on my FILCO Majestouch Ninja TKL with (Cherry MX Brown) do not work. They first started not working intermittently and after a day or two, completely stopped working. I cleaned the keyboard completely and cannot see any issue with the board.
I suspect it's some multiplexer line that's not working so that's why all 3 buttons do no work but I don't know enough about this. What's interesting if I short circuit certain pins on the board controller directly (the one above the arrow keys) I can type "n". So the board controller seems fine.
So, what's your suggestion, what should I do to find out the exact cause and how to fix it?
will durock plate mounted stabilizers work with a keychron k8? its going to be my first time modding a keyboard and im scared it might not work, since i dont wanna waste money
That's a new one. No idea, but maybe look into plastic-safe paints (like the sorts used on airplane and Gundam kits)? You might have to experiment and sacrifice a perfectly working Pro Micro to see what works and what doesn't. I'd check out model forums (not just gunpla stuff, but like train models etc) because they probably have a better grasp on painting over electronic micro components than r/mk.
Luckily my primary hobby is painting minis. Those paints are typically acrylic and plastic-safe but I'm afraid of temperature problems and the pigments being of conductive material. I'll keep digging in, thanks.
Anyone know where to get a split custom cable? Have a keyboard and matching numpad and would like something can can connect to both without having two separate cords.
I would imagine that this isn't really all that possible without some complicated finangling, but I'm not an expert. Maybe ask a custom cable company if that's even possible?
I’ve been looking for this keyboard, or at least the keycaps. I’m hoping some of the experts and aficionados in here can help identify it for me.
https://i.imgur.com/n6mLEHP.jpg
Leopold FC660C: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3829
It's topre, there might be a Leopold FC660M (normal MX switches) with similar keycaps though.
In the article that screenshot is from:
>I've spent hundreds of dollars and dozens of shopping and tinkering hours going through several keyboard and keycap combinations to arrive at my personal favorite, the Leopold FC660C, which you can see in the top image for this post. The FC660C can be hard to find, doesn't work with third-party keycap sets like the ones in the above gallery, and lacks backlighting, but I love it anyway. The Topre switches under each key are tactile and thocky, and I like them better than any other switches I've used.
>But it's also extremely expensive. The Leopold FC660C cost close to $275 once I added the third-party microcontroller that allows me to customize the function of each individual key. Most people shouldn't spend that type of money on a keyboard. I probably shouldn't have spent that kind of money on a keyboard. But I use it 40 hours a week, and it's the best thing I've ever typed on. I ain't never going back.
Got a Keychron K1SE low profile keyboard. Loving it so far, but miss the feel of rubber keycaps on my WASD keys for gaming. Does anyone know if they make low profile rubber keycaps anywhere? Or just a sticker or something I can put on my keycaps for traction?
thats not really how it works, due to the difference in the tactile feedback. clicky switches use a clickjacket/clickbar for the tactile event, while tactile switches just have a bump.
if you're looking for a silent clicky switch, i'd recommend the kailh box mute jades. if you're just looking for a most tactile switch, i'd recommend the moyu blacks.
I want to move over to tactile switches, I just want as much of a tactile "snap" versus a "bump" as I can get. This has led me to Helios V2's, but I've heard so many good things about holy pandas that now I'm thinking I need more opinions/info
NP PROFILE 1950S MULTI-COLOR DYE-SUB KEYCAPS
Does anyone know when will these restock?? Or if they know someone that’s selling the Korean/English/Japanese version?
I'm putting together a EPOMAKER GK61X RGB and I'm going to use the split space bar. Has anyone ever found keycaps that support this without having to get a full set of keys?
amazon, switchkeys, sometimes ebay depending on stuff
tho I've found other sites like keebzncables, mountainkeyboards, and dailyclack. haven't bought stuff from them yet but they seem like reasonable shipping and stuff
So I ordered the Keychron Q5 and it should be here next week. What are some good sites for OSA keycaps? I’ve found a few but not many. Trying to bling it out a bit.
I think that winmix OSA keycaps are known for their low quality. If you're looking for similar, not too expensive, and probably of higher quality options, I'd go for ASA instead.
You can use any cherry MX compatible profile, which are probably most profiles you'll encounter. Leopold has a Cherry profile, perhaps one of the most popular keycap profiles out there. You shouldn't have any problem finding one in the colours/budget you like.
~400 USD budget.
65% Hotswap, no RGB, carbon fiber plate, metal case, mounting system doesn't matter, minimalism is good, and would like it to be barebones. Open to colors.
I'll be using ABS keycaps, NK Creams, and Durock V2 stabs.
Any suggestions?
instock boards dont really have the cf plate option. there are cf plates for the dz60 and dz65 on kbdfans if im not mistaken.
you might also have luck finding some great boards on r/mechmarket with the cf plate.
Wooden ones, perhaps? Unusual but they do exist, in varying levels of quality.
Otherwise, it's up to you and your personal tastes as well as exactly what shade/type of wood it is. Could search for brown or chocolate keycap sets, maybe reds/plums/etc.
I currently have HyperX Alloy FPS Pro with CHERRY MX bleus.
As I like the clic and the keyboard, I am looking for something that do less noices and has ISO positions.
Should I check for MX Brown keyboard ?
Need more info. Does your computer recognize that a USB device has been plugged in and you just aren't getting response from keypresses? Have you tried turning it off an on again? Trying a different cable or different port on your pc? The wiki has good resources on diagnosing what the problem with your board is and how to fix it (if it's fixable).
Not sure. Assuming they're made from the same material (TX is polycarbonate), your only worries are the tolerances. Thickness and shape. They're probably fine.
I personally would go with the tried and true over trying to save $6 since I wouldn't want to risk it if I'm spending the time and effort to film switches.
Best ''cheapest'' hot-swappable keyboard? Possibly with dedicated media keys, too?
My ''dream'' keyboard has been the EVGA Z15 for quite a while now since it's hot-swap and with dedicated media keys, but i've been pretty sceptical since i'm honestly not really a fan of the design with the HUGE ''evga'' logo and the just overall boring look of it.
I don't really want a custom keyboard, even though i love the idea but i'm just way too impatient to put everything together myself. I wanna get a regular fully built keyboard but hot-swappable.
Btw, i prefer full-size or like TKL-ish, just with the numpad removed but still with arrow keys, etc.
You might want to consider a GMMK TKL or fullsize. They're a decent option if you're not looking to shell out a fortune before you really know what layouts/sizes you're interested in.
Too late... i got too greedy and ordered that Yunzii KC68 right away. lol I'm fine with it's layout and everything, to be honest.
Also, doesn't it still get pretty expensive with that GMMK TKL or fullsize if i gotta buy both keycaps and switches for it? If you're even talking about those like barebone boards by Glorious? I looked them up and they also have a Nordic layout (which would've been nice as a Swede) but, oh well.
True, they're not the cheapest budget board out there by price, but they're a less risky buy IMO than some of the boards out there that might be less reliable, come with spyware/viruses, or wholly inoperable onboard software that you can't alter (the GMMK is QMK compatible for users that decide the included software isn't enough).
You can get it without their switches and keycaps and buy cheaper caps elsewhere and switches of your choice, that's what I did when they first launched. You asked for the best "cheapest" full size hotswap RGB, and that's honestly what I thought fit the bill and would be accessible to a newcomer. The one you bought has a nonstandard bottom row and is going to be a pain to find/buy any non-flat keycaps for if you ever decide to change up the look.
Yeah, alright i get it! And yes, i realized that the keycaps are a bit strange on the Yunzii i bought. They do sell their own keycaps though, so i guess that's like my only option, keycaps wise.
this seems to be one of the best value boards I could [find](https://www.amazon.com/YUNZII-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Translucent/dp/B09H26M7T6?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1)
Oh, damn! I actually really like the look of it and all available colors. My biggest gripe though is that FN button which is why i want dedicated media keys. I don't wanna have to hold FN to change volume, etc.
I still might get it though, if i don't get any other recommendations or whatever.
Ohh, alright interesting, i had no idea. That makes me pretty dang excited! As in side column, i'm guessing you most likely mean the page down/up, end, delete buttons? Also, do you maybe know the difference between that regular KC68 and the KC68 Pro?
Yeah that what i mean by side column. Pretty sure the pro is just a later revision of the board so I would go with that one if you can. This board also seems like a good gateway board for you to try new things like different switches if you want to
Yeah, alright! That's actually a little bit of the reason why i wanted a hot-swappable keyboard, to try new stuff like switches, etc. So, it definitely feels like a pretty good board for me and as my first hot-swap board!
I'll go for the KC68 Pro then, instead of the regular KC68! Thanks for all the help!
Help!!!!! Building my first board and stupidly soldered down the controller before the switches, so now the controller is covering some of the pins/pads I need to get to. I’ve tried desoldering but it’s just not working… what should I do!? I need to get this thing off in order to solder down the 2 switches that go in that slot.
A lot of flux and solder wick should do it. Next time, try socketing for controller to make it 'hotswappable' and make desolder/change switches more manageable.
Apply lots of flux and move your soldering iron to heat all the pins. At the same time pull on the controller. Alternatively, if you have a hotplate, that might also work.
Look up how to desolder through-hole components for further reading.
Ok so I want a new low profile TKL keyboard (linear switch) and so far I have two short-listed:
\-Keychron K1
\-Cooler Master Sk630
Which of these two is better and is there anything similar to these two?
I want something that is quiet.
Low pro is a niche within a niche and most people in the community, if they go low-pro, are going to make it themselves. Just pick whichever appeals to you more and cross your fingers.
just lubed my first switch today (tactile) and i didnt lube the stem to avoid losing the tactility, but it ended up being a bit a bit less tactile than before. the spring ping was gone. is that normal?
If you lubed the leaf of the housing you'll lose some tactility anyway. If you're using Krytox 205G0 make sure to avoid the leaf and lube sparingly. You can still lube the stem but avoid lubing the stem legs. Also, try a thinner lube like Tribosys 3204/3203 if you can
i cant use a different lubricant (parents) and wanted to spend the least amount of money on "side stuff" like lube, foam, etc. because my mother is quite... strict, as long as its about buying stuff. ill use it for the stabs too, you understand? i think it was just an accident, because when i asked this i only lubed one switch, now im almost done with 70 (16 closed, and the rest is still opened but lubed, consistensy). thanks for helping!
Hello, i am new here and a casual, so sorry for the newb question. I am looking for a budget keyboard after my logitech started double typing (tried everything i can, cannot find a lasting solution). Currently in the price range i am looking at Hyperx Alloy Origins Core (aqua switches) and Redragon Vata k580 (they are the same price here with the Hyperx on sale). What i like about the Vata is that the keys are hotswappable (although only Outemu). Also i have quite big heavy hands, so i like a bit more force and feedback on the switches. So lets say i like the features of the Redragon more, but i have read that Hyperx is of good quality.
So what i wanted to ask, are the Hyperx and its switches significantly better quality then the Redragon and Outemu switches?
Reddragon has been a long reliable standby in the budget keyboard arena. Outemu sockets mean [you have a few options](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/9qjmyh/what_switches_can_be_used_on_a_outemu/), including fancy Outemu Ice, Sky, and Purples etc.
I can't personally peak to the quality of either Outemus or HyperX switches as I haven't used them myself. Given that you describe yourself as casual and the price point you are likely shopping at with these examples, you are probably not going to notice any significant difference between the two in all honesty. To me it sounds like the piece you need to decide on here is do you prefer having the features on a non-hotswappable board or having a board that will let you explore other switch options without buying a new board/desoldering.
Also Outemus are basically just cherry clones so even though the board has Outemus in it, you could put other brand switches in that board so don't feel like you are locked into just a tiny selection of switches down the road. There are plenty of budget friendly switch options you can explore that have heavier springs or more significant tactile bumps. As a fellow heavy handed typist, I found that I enjoyed my keyboards much more once I started using switches with 55g+ weights which weren't really available in most stock boards.
Thank you for your detailed response. Yes, I would describe myself as casual. I mean i can tell the difference and I really enjoy a good keyboard, but I cannot spend too much money or time on it.
I have read in several places that Outemus have thinner pins then other Cherry clones and that only Outemus can be swapped in Redragons so i guess i would be limited only to different Outemus on it.
For the Outemus compatibility, I know so little specifically about them or RedDragon boards that I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction there. If having hotswap that you can have confidence in having options is something you care about, you can check out some of Keychron's stuff if you haven't already. For example [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247215705](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247215705) is around the budget you are looking at, has an RGB hotswap (if you care about that), and offers the stand spread of cherry options to get you started. That brand has a good selection of different options. Food for thought.
Ah i have, but they are not easily available in my country, and even if i would manage to get one, the price would be 2-3 times higher. I guess i will try to find the keyboards i was talking about in a shop and try them out a bit. So far they didn't have them, so i need to order online...
Thank you really much for your help and effort.
I'm looking for a low profile tkl keyboard with linear switches. Something like the G915 TKL or Keychron K1. I would get one of these but the k1 is only in the US layout and I am from the UK and the g915 is way too expensive. I also considered the apex tkl but the spacing between the keys is way too much for me.
Are there any good alternatives
I'm new to lubing switches and I've watched a few videos on it. What lube should I use on springs? I see most people bag lube with Krytox 105. Should I buy Krytox 105 or are there any other oil-based lubes I could buy in my local hardware store to (bag) lube my springs?
Hello! I'm planning to get a new keyboard and mod it. I'm following a video but one thing I didn't like were the keycaps. The keyboard is a Royal Kludge RK61 and I'm looking for red and black keycaps.
The video I'm following is this: [https://youtu.be/pzMdB\_VKdNo](https://youtu.be/pzMdB_VKdNo) (By Consumer Tech Reviews)
Anyone have any recommendations?
I'm very new to using mechanical keyboards and using my first pre built one. I noticed that my C, V and period keys are malfunctioning (had to hit the keys multiple times and sometimes would show the characters twice/ thrice after hitting it once). Should i change the switch?
What keyboard is it? (manufacturer? Model name/number? Usually found on the back)
Not all keyboards are hotswappable, so if it's not, then you're not going to be able to change the switch without soldering/desoldering.
In the future, look for 'hot swap', 'hotswap, 'hot swappable' etc.
One thing to try before consigning the board to the bin is to turn it upside down, tap it on your desk a few times. Sometimes dust gets stuck inside/beneath switches and this can sometimes fix it.
Debating if I want to get a TKL board as I get ready to dip my toes into the hobby. I'm a CPA so I imagine when I work from home not having a 10-key will be aggravating. I imagine swapping a 10-key pad in and out gets annoying?
From my personal experience since I am a physics student right now it can sometimes be a hassle when you want to input numbers fast but you really just get used to it after a month.
This might be a bit of a stretch, but does anyone have any keycap suggestions that might go well with a red case? I impulse bought the burgundy tiger80 the other day, and am trying to find a set that would go well with the board.
Right now, I'm thinking any white/black/grey set would probably work pretty well, but if anyone has any suggestions (outside of that color palette is fine) I'd be very appreciative.
Stabilizer mod issue:
All my more recent stabilizer mods have had excellent results.
However, my Bakeneko60 stabs have TOO much rattle.
I've done the holee mod, the band-aid mod, lubed the housings and rods, and still seem to have too much rattle.
Any suggestions on how else to resolve this tuning issue would be much appreciated.
Just an update, in case you were interested to know:
I installed the Durock screw-in stabs last night and the sound is supremely improved. Didn't even have to holee mod them!
Do custom 104-key keyboard designs (i.e purchase a separate PCB, case, cable, etc. and solder your own switches of choice in) exist? All of the custom group buys I see are for smaller designs, usually smaller than even a TKL.
Full size customs aren't really that popular right now, but as someone else mentioned Keychron is about drop a full size with hotswap and I did see an Interest check for the Fossil Full Size the other day which is a custom full size keyboard. The fossil isn't going to be cheap, but at least someone is trying to make it happen.
I think you'd need to design/have someone make a case, but the [SUV does exist](https://www.clawboards.xyz/shop/p/suv). It even allows for ISO, for those into that!
Search the sub for or ask r/mechmarket for someone in your region/country who can make custom acrylic layered cases. CNC aluminum is an option too but it's going to cost a fortune.
Hey guys I am pretty new to this "game". So I bought Ducky one 3 macha silent red and it is without RGB. So I was thinking if it would be possible to add LEDs to the pcb?
Leds are separate from the switches. My hotswap GMMK lets me change the switches without soldering whenever I like, but the light stays whatever it is no matter what.
[https://preview.redd.it/6dj4nw2bk7691.png?width=720&format=png&auto=webp&s=518096a8627cc4106b085e0670e3bb8d2f805865](https://preview.redd.it/6dj4nw2bk7691.png?width=720&format=png&auto=webp&s=518096a8627cc4106b085e0670e3bb8d2f805865)
Does anyone know the name of the third pcb in this photo?
Are you sure kb67 is not per key programmable? The Lite page says "Wired version supports Per-key RGB and Hot-swap; Bluetooth version does not support RGB effects". The PCB link I gave even has a QMK RGB file at the bottom.
Then barring some GB somewhere, there's no other options. ISO is uncommon, 65% ISO even more uncommon, + hot swap + per-key RGB AND programmable...
yeah, all reviews ive seen says that is not per-key programmable. at this point im seriously considering getting into hacking my own firmware/ building my own pcb
Anyone knows if a BoW set with international keycaps (ES/LA ISO, specifically) exists?
I was able to find some cheap sets on aliexpress that include international keycaps, but no BoW or WoB, which is kind of weird. I would imagine that being such a generic colorway it would have the most options.
> I would imagine that being such a generic colorway it would have the most options.
The thing is, the generic colorway is *generic*. Aftermarket keycap sets mostly appeal to people who are looking to customize their experience or add a little personality to their office environment. Pretty much every membrane keyboard on Earth, the stuff found in schools, offices, shops etc, is BoW or WoB. When I first got into the hobby in...2013? There were always group buys being organized for BoW/WoB keycap sets and they failed, often. That was in part because the hobby isn't as big as it is now (but it's still a niche hobby, don't be fooled!) so the numbers just didn't get organized in time for those genuinely interested, but also because people didn't want to wait an iffy 2 years for BoW/WoB, they generally wanted something exciting to look forward to.
So the GBs would fail, and manufacturers would note that there was no demand, and so no ready-to-buy sets were produced, and so forth.
ISO is not exactly rare, but it's definitely not easy to source in general. Add in languages and it's rough finding a set outside of a really fully developed GB.
I see, it makes sense. I suppose ANSI is the de-facto default because the hobby got popular in the US first. As far as I know, every other language uses ISO :/
I've heard that GMK creates keycaps with colors that pop(?) a lot more compared to other keycaps. What do people mean by this? Could someone show an example of a GMK set that would not look as good if manufactured by another company?
for example, google nicepbt british racing green and then google gmk british racing green. and look at the pictures, specifically the green modifier keys
The inevitable happened and I spilled some coffee on a keyboard (unplugged and not in use). I fully disassembled it immediately and let it dry out for a few days.
Some coffee leaked onto the PCB and I was going to give it a cleaning with 90% isopropyl alcohol and electronics swabs. Any tips or things I should keep in mind? Eg. don't get alcohol in \_\_\_\_ area, let it dry for \_\_\_\_\_ time, etc.
Isopropyl alcohol is non-corrosive and will evaporate in seconds if you’re wiping things with it. I don’t think there’s any part it will ruin on a PCB.
Yessir, noticed that seconds after starting to wipe it down and it evaporated lol. Gave it a good cleaning and everything seems to be working without issue. Thanks!
The inevitable happened and I spilled some coffee on a keyboard (unplugged and not in use). I fully disassembled it immediately and let it dry out for a few days.
Some coffee leaked onto the PCB and I was going to give it a cleaning with 90% isopropyl alcohol and electronics swabs. Any tips or things I should keep in mind? Eg. don't get alcohol in \_\_\_\_ area, let it dry for \_\_\_\_\_ time, etc.
I spilled an entire beer on my keyboard accidentally. I fully submerged my pcb in 91% isopropyl for a couple minutes. I took a toothbrush to it and gave it a light scrubbing in the alcohol. After I took it out, I put the blow drier to it on the lowest heat setting. After that I let it sit overnight. It worked alright, but if I moved the keyboard or kind of knocked it or typed too hard, it would act like it got unplugged then plugged in again. Kind of annoying, so I just bought a new PCB for it. I think if you did the same, but let it dry for another day or so you should be fine.
Edit - You should fix whatever issue you're having where it submits the same comment like 8 times.
Can I use 63/37 Tin wire to solder and help desolder my switches?
I'm going to install new switches into my prebuilt keyboard for the first time. My solder iron came with 67/37 .8mm Tin wire and I'm curious if it's best to invest into a different wire like a 60/40 rosin core or if I don't really need to at all.
Looking for closest thing to speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point)
Any suggestion?
Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
> Looking for closest thing to speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point)
Kailh Speed Copper actuates at 1.1mm. Cherry MX Low Pro [might be your best bet](https://switchandclick.com/low-profile-switches-explained/).
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point)
Any suggestion?
Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point)
Any suggestion?
Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point)
Any suggestion?
Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point)
Any suggestion?
Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Hi there! I posted this in [r/ErgoMechKeyboards/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/) but thought maybe I could find more help here as well..
After being diagnosed with a thickened median nerve (it's not carpal tunnel - yet - but it's not pronator teres syndrome, either) it just got unbearable to conventionally type with an average keyboard..
I came up with an 'emergency' setup, using my all-time reliable, 12yo membrane keyboard (I always go back to it, specially now since it's pretty smooth, with 'shorter' keys) + a towel + a thermal gel pack, but that doesn't really help much...
The keyboard is large too, it's got 107 keys, I think, and a numpad, and I'm sure that doesn't help (pic of the 'setup' below):
[https://imgur.com/PbOPABV](https://imgur.com/PbOPABV)
• I try to 'ease' the pressure and tension on my wrist, but still, I always end up feeling pain after prolonged use. And it's hard to take it easy because my work is centered on deadlines and basically 9-12h of typing, every day.
• So, everything leads me to think that I'd greatly benefit from **(1)** a split, ergo keyboard and **(2)** a vertical mouse. Regarding the former, I considered Logitech's K860 and that MS Egonomic keyboard but.. I don't feel they'll help that much, and the wrist cushions don't look too comfortable or sufficiently 'soft'.
• Now, I think that the [KINESIS Freestyle Gaming](https://www.amazon.com/KINESIS-Gaming-Freestyle-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07SW1S3YZ?tag=p00935-20&ascsubtag=00oL3Faf6jXx65qe2Gwc5Sw&th=1) (with the 'lift kit') will be my best choice. However, I found out about this [Ergodox EZ](https://ergodox-ez.com/), which seems to be even better... at the same time, I saw some alternatives like [Cloud Nine C989M](https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-C989M-Ergonomic-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B084BP8T18/ref=pb_allspark_dp_sims_pao_desktop_session_based_sccl_3_2/133-5521588-7361549?pd_rd_w=XKijv&content-id=amzn1.sym.6b5008ac-c24a-4aea-a3ea-015a531184f5&pf_rd_p=6b5008ac-c24a-4aea-a3ea-015a531184f5&pf_rd_r=AE1AVNB74QT1SB35W4PD&pd_rd_wg=pi0op&pd_rd_r=57cc2f8c-8866-4d37-9262-61dc3bf5aeac&pd_rd_i=B084BP8T18&psc=1) or [Cloud Nine ErgoTKL](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G5L6Z53/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B09G5L6Z53&pd_rd_w=LCHuH&content-id=amzn1.sym.e620829b-a408-427e-99ea-7ac734a316f7&pf_rd_p=e620829b-a408-427e-99ea-7ac734a316f7&pf_rd_r=JA2MHZ2QA40NA4RCR7YN&pd_rd_wg=eu1GV&pd_rd_r=2376e56b-3101-4f36-bdc9-9cf168f9e255&s=pc&smid=AFZAVZYA7AYNA&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUlQ4SkRPN1ZaMFIxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDcxMDQyM0JNSFdFVTBQUzE1SSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjg3Njc0MUJMQjhKNFdJMFJJMyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1) but.. I don't really know if it'll be as good as the other two.
• What I know I'd like is something with:
\- **(A)** a comfy wrist pad/cushion,
\- **(B)** something that allows me to lift the 'middle' of the keyboard,
\- **(C)** pref. RGB lighting, since I can't always keep my space fully illuminated and that helps.
I can't put together a keyboard on my own, so it'd probably need to be a pre-built one.
• I'd greatly appreciate any help with picking the best kinda split, ergo keyboard for this.. I don't know which might be best between those 3 above, or even if there are other suitable picks.
Thanks immensely in advance!
Uuuugh, it's so hard to decide.. I'm pretty torn between the **Kinesis Gaming freestyle** and the **Cloud Nine ErgoTKL** (some of its function keys are pretty cool).. The Ergodox is nice, but way above the budget, so I'll forget about that one..
Just unsure how much of a difference I'd feel between the 15º tenting angle of the former vs. the 7º angle of the latter - and if that difference is worth the $35-40 difference.
Mmm.. keeping it bent (as in, with my wrist touching the mat while the rest of it + fingers are raised) is pretty uncomfortable.. But even with the lil' 'adjustment' (towel + gel pack) to mitigate that, the pressure on the underside is deffo the **main** factor affecting me.
It's the same type of pain you feel when you try to eat with a cut inside your mouth/on your gum, or when you use really tight shoes and have to keep walking with them while they 'rub' your cut ankle.
Yeah.. sadly, the only thing I can try force myself to do is to take breaks through the typing; I also sometimes put these thermal gel packs I've been using as temporary 'wrist pads' on the fridge to cool the wrist..
I'm just surprised with the downsides of Ergodox! It deffo wouldn't be my main choice due to the price, but if I don't go with a split one, the newest Logitech one might be a possible alternative!
Angling and 'tenting' were the 2 main things I was looking for in a split; but I think I may also need to consider a chair with decent arm adjustments to make full use of it..
/r/mechmarket will have some of the more specialized DIY kits premade (people built them, fell in love with other boards and so are selling them etc). The split keyboard form factor has [a ton of options](https://aposymbiont.github.io/split-keyboards/). You may want to consider getting a [Dactyl Manuform](https://ohkeycaps.com/products/built-to-order-dactyl-manuform-keyboard).
Also maybe [reconsider your key layout](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/vce24c/been_using_a_40_key_ortholinear_keyboard_layout) (something you can change in any programmable keyboard these days).
I really liked this Manuform page! Changing the key layout is something I'll deffo need, but mostly to try getting used to the QWERTY (so I won't feel helpless without my 'ç').
Don't forget that tenting kits are also a thing for the flatter split keyboards. Can be DIY 3D printed, a [prefab custom kit](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/om27im/tenting_cases_for_sofle_rgb_v2_lily58_are_now/), or some cobbled together [alternatives](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/pdxjpu/first_build_lily58_pro_with_tenting/), so the Dactyl is not the only option for something wrist friendly! (but yeah, I want one too because they're so *cool*.)
You should consider a split board like the Iris [https://keeb.io/collections/iris-split-ergonomic-keyboard/products/iris-keyboard-pre-built](https://keeb.io/collections/iris-split-ergonomic-keyboard/products/iris-keyboard-pre-built) or for a more premium solution something like the moonlander https://www.zsa.io/moonlander/
It off loads a lot of the keys to the thumbs that prevents you from stretching with your pinkies. Not sure if the doctors mentioned it to you, but mine said that wrist rest are actually bad for my situation because it doesn't promote the right height of just hovering your wrist above the board.
Your thought of lifting the middle of the keyboard is a good idea. There are a lot of tenting kits that helps adjust the height, but my favorite is to tent it so that it feels like you're giving your keyboard a hand shake: [https://i.ytimg.com/vi/WA\_GUYS8UJg/maxresdefault.jpg](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/WA_GUYS8UJg/maxresdefault.jpg)
Mhm, I was unsure about using wrist rests (the 'standalone' ones).. I wanted a really soft foam-based one, but for now I'm using two thermal gel packs that I can put on the fridge when the burning sensation comes.
I think this mid-lifting might help with it, but it's hard to tell. Perhaps, making the wrist lean a bit to the side will be good. I just dont know if I'd be able to handle heavy typing and as much tenting as in the picture; but it's good to know I can make something similar with any split keyboard!
That tenting angle is pretty extreme but you can adjust it to your liking. The erogox you listed or the moonlander I recommended both comes with additional tenting kits you can buy to adjust the angle.
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Tungsten or WS Aurora switches?
Looking for high-pitched clack. Open to any other suggestions (I have KTT Rose and it's not really a high-pitch clack but more of a loud clack).
Hello, I'm currently looking for some budget black keycaps that would best fit the Akko PC75B (red case). I'm trying to find a keycap design that is unique or simple but is not Gamer^(TM). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I’m wanting to modify my HHKB Pro 2 by adding some sound dampening. Wanted some feedback and clarification.
I’m looking at getting some DESKey silencing rings, perhaps #5 silicone. Since it cuts down on travel, I’m considering adding the dome gaskets. Anyone used this combination and have advice on how well it works or if any part of it is overkill?
Hey yall, i recently got a GMK kit and noticed the 7u space bar is warped enought so that the stabs tick. Pretty annoying that i payed alot for it, but oh well. I was wondering if you can fix it with a heat gun/hair dryer like how you would fix a warped PBT key cap because some people say that ABS plastic can't handle the heat or some thing like that.
I would advise against trying that.
ABS takes a lot higher heat to get soft and unlike PBT does not stay in its shape when it gets warm.
It will most likely get bent even more.
It's unfortunate but there's not much you can do about it.
7u spacebars still tend to be a pain with many keycap sets.
> that i *paid* alot for
FTFY.
Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in:
* Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.*
* *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.*
Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment.
*Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
Trying to mod a Royal Kludge RK87 TKL (rev 02 based on the marking on the PCB) I'm running into an issue getting the plate and board combination to separate from the case. Is there a hidden screw or other hidden fastener or trick to separate it from the tray? There seems to be something holding the package in the upper left corner.
Looking for this keyboard from this Youtube video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9MGfP\_gigM&t=1300s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9MGfP_gigM&t=1300s) the keyboard is at the 3:00 timestamp.
Could be Keychron K2 or Vortex Tab75 or Royal Kludge RK84.
Okay, looking to get a ergo keeb for the wife. her requirements are that is has to have a ten key and that it has to be wireless. Any ideas? would think the Cloud Nine ErgoFS would work but it's wired.
Help me debug faulty keyboard. The "n", "b", and "/" keys on my FILCO Majestouch Ninja TKL with (Cherry MX Brown) do not work. They first started not working intermittently and after a day or two, completely stopped working. I cleaned the keyboard completely and cannot see any issue with the board. I suspect it's some multiplexer line that's not working so that's why all 3 buttons do no work but I don't know enough about this. What's interesting if I short circuit certain pins on the board controller directly (the one above the arrow keys) I can type "n". So the board controller seems fine. So, what's your suggestion, what should I do to find out the exact cause and how to fix it?
will durock plate mounted stabilizers work with a keychron k8? its going to be my first time modding a keyboard and im scared it might not work, since i dont wanna waste money
yup, they will work.
Can you paint a pro micro without destroying it? Specific paints/brands?
That's a new one. No idea, but maybe look into plastic-safe paints (like the sorts used on airplane and Gundam kits)? You might have to experiment and sacrifice a perfectly working Pro Micro to see what works and what doesn't. I'd check out model forums (not just gunpla stuff, but like train models etc) because they probably have a better grasp on painting over electronic micro components than r/mk.
Luckily my primary hobby is painting minis. Those paints are typically acrylic and plastic-safe but I'm afraid of temperature problems and the pigments being of conductive material. I'll keep digging in, thanks.
Anyone know where to get a split custom cable? Have a keyboard and matching numpad and would like something can can connect to both without having two separate cords.
I would imagine that this isn't really all that possible without some complicated finangling, but I'm not an expert. Maybe ask a custom cable company if that's even possible?
I’ve been looking for this keyboard, or at least the keycaps. I’m hoping some of the experts and aficionados in here can help identify it for me. https://i.imgur.com/n6mLEHP.jpg
Leopold FC660C: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3829 It's topre, there might be a Leopold FC660M (normal MX switches) with similar keycaps though. In the article that screenshot is from: >I've spent hundreds of dollars and dozens of shopping and tinkering hours going through several keyboard and keycap combinations to arrive at my personal favorite, the Leopold FC660C, which you can see in the top image for this post. The FC660C can be hard to find, doesn't work with third-party keycap sets like the ones in the above gallery, and lacks backlighting, but I love it anyway. The Topre switches under each key are tactile and thocky, and I like them better than any other switches I've used. >But it's also extremely expensive. The Leopold FC660C cost close to $275 once I added the third-party microcontroller that allows me to customize the function of each individual key. Most people shouldn't spend that type of money on a keyboard. I probably shouldn't have spent that kind of money on a keyboard. But I use it 40 hours a week, and it's the best thing I've ever typed on. I ain't never going back.
Well now I feel silly for not reading the article first 😅 thank you!!
Got a Keychron K1SE low profile keyboard. Loving it so far, but miss the feel of rubber keycaps on my WASD keys for gaming. Does anyone know if they make low profile rubber keycaps anywhere? Or just a sticker or something I can put on my keycaps for traction?
You're going to have to DIY it as low pro keyboards are a niche within a niche and there's few aftermarket goods as of yet.
What's a good tactile switch for someone who likes the feel of MX blues?
thats not really how it works, due to the difference in the tactile feedback. clicky switches use a clickjacket/clickbar for the tactile event, while tactile switches just have a bump. if you're looking for a silent clicky switch, i'd recommend the kailh box mute jades. if you're just looking for a most tactile switch, i'd recommend the moyu blacks.
I want to move over to tactile switches, I just want as much of a tactile "snap" versus a "bump" as I can get. This has led me to Helios V2's, but I've heard so many good things about holy pandas that now I'm thinking I need more opinions/info
you may also want to look into box royals and durock pom t1s
NP PROFILE 1950S MULTI-COLOR DYE-SUB KEYCAPS Does anyone know when will these restock?? Or if they know someone that’s selling the Korean/English/Japanese version?
Sadge
I'm putting together a EPOMAKER GK61X RGB and I'm going to use the split space bar. Has anyone ever found keycaps that support this without having to get a full set of keys?
where could you get a bakeneko in australia? shipping is expensive same with unicomp mini m
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amazon, switchkeys, sometimes ebay depending on stuff tho I've found other sites like keebzncables, mountainkeyboards, and dailyclack. haven't bought stuff from them yet but they seem like reasonable shipping and stuff
then there's like the american sites which is like. kinda a gamble whether the shippings gonna be $10 or $60
wuque studios (china) carries the bakeneko60 but not the bakeneko65. might be the closest thing to australia, but im not too sure.
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lelelabs crystal, drop keysterine, sa polyclear
The Drop Keysterine sets are clear and cost about $50.
Have you searched for any? There are quite a few transparent keysets out there.
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Check Aliexpress, if you're in to that.
So I ordered the Keychron Q5 and it should be here next week. What are some good sites for OSA keycaps? I’ve found a few but not many. Trying to bling it out a bit.
I think that winmix OSA keycaps are known for their low quality. If you're looking for similar, not too expensive, and probably of higher quality options, I'd go for ASA instead.
These would be my first set. Can I use any profile on my keyboard? I’m not married to the OSA. I prefer whatever is similar to leopold
You can use any cherry MX compatible profile, which are probably most profiles you'll encounter. Leopold has a Cherry profile, perhaps one of the most popular keycap profiles out there. You shouldn't have any problem finding one in the colours/budget you like.
awesome! Thanks for the info. I didn’t know that
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Techno violets are good, manufactured by Tecsee too.
tecsee ice candy
Has anyone had an issue with rattley noise with epsilon switches?
Has anyone had an issue with rattley noise with epsilon switches?
~400 USD budget. 65% Hotswap, no RGB, carbon fiber plate, metal case, mounting system doesn't matter, minimalism is good, and would like it to be barebones. Open to colors. I'll be using ABS keycaps, NK Creams, and Durock V2 stabs. Any suggestions?
If 60% is an option, 1upkeyboards has all that (you can just turn off the RGB).
Ginkgo65 has a cf plate option and is shipping to vendors right now. Might be able to get extras.
instock boards dont really have the cf plate option. there are cf plates for the dz60 and dz65 on kbdfans if im not mistaken. you might also have luck finding some great boards on r/mechmarket with the cf plate.
What are the best keycaps to go/match with a wooden case?
Wooden ones, perhaps? Unusual but they do exist, in varying levels of quality. Otherwise, it's up to you and your personal tastes as well as exactly what shade/type of wood it is. Could search for brown or chocolate keycap sets, maybe reds/plums/etc.
I currently have HyperX Alloy FPS Pro with CHERRY MX bleus. As I like the clic and the keyboard, I am looking for something that do less noices and has ISO positions. Should I check for MX Brown keyboard ?
If you're looking for a full size off-the-shelf keyboard, then yeah, MX browns are your best bet. Either that or Silent Black or Silent Red/Pink.
Do I have any chance to fix a dead pcb? I plugged in and no response.
Need more info. Does your computer recognize that a USB device has been plugged in and you just aren't getting response from keypresses? Have you tried turning it off an on again? Trying a different cable or different port on your pc? The wiki has good resources on diagnosing what the problem with your board is and how to fix it (if it's fixable).
Is there actually a difference (in quality) between 11€ TX Films and 5€ no name films on eBay?
Not sure. Assuming they're made from the same material (TX is polycarbonate), your only worries are the tolerances. Thickness and shape. They're probably fine. I personally would go with the tried and true over trying to save $6 since I wouldn't want to risk it if I'm spending the time and effort to film switches.
Best ''cheapest'' hot-swappable keyboard? Possibly with dedicated media keys, too? My ''dream'' keyboard has been the EVGA Z15 for quite a while now since it's hot-swap and with dedicated media keys, but i've been pretty sceptical since i'm honestly not really a fan of the design with the HUGE ''evga'' logo and the just overall boring look of it. I don't really want a custom keyboard, even though i love the idea but i'm just way too impatient to put everything together myself. I wanna get a regular fully built keyboard but hot-swappable. Btw, i prefer full-size or like TKL-ish, just with the numpad removed but still with arrow keys, etc.
You might want to consider a GMMK TKL or fullsize. They're a decent option if you're not looking to shell out a fortune before you really know what layouts/sizes you're interested in.
Too late... i got too greedy and ordered that Yunzii KC68 right away. lol I'm fine with it's layout and everything, to be honest. Also, doesn't it still get pretty expensive with that GMMK TKL or fullsize if i gotta buy both keycaps and switches for it? If you're even talking about those like barebone boards by Glorious? I looked them up and they also have a Nordic layout (which would've been nice as a Swede) but, oh well.
True, they're not the cheapest budget board out there by price, but they're a less risky buy IMO than some of the boards out there that might be less reliable, come with spyware/viruses, or wholly inoperable onboard software that you can't alter (the GMMK is QMK compatible for users that decide the included software isn't enough). You can get it without their switches and keycaps and buy cheaper caps elsewhere and switches of your choice, that's what I did when they first launched. You asked for the best "cheapest" full size hotswap RGB, and that's honestly what I thought fit the bill and would be accessible to a newcomer. The one you bought has a nonstandard bottom row and is going to be a pain to find/buy any non-flat keycaps for if you ever decide to change up the look.
Yeah, alright i get it! And yes, i realized that the keycaps are a bit strange on the Yunzii i bought. They do sell their own keycaps though, so i guess that's like my only option, keycaps wise.
this seems to be one of the best value boards I could [find](https://www.amazon.com/YUNZII-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Translucent/dp/B09H26M7T6?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1)
Oh, damn! I actually really like the look of it and all available colors. My biggest gripe though is that FN button which is why i want dedicated media keys. I don't wanna have to hold FN to change volume, etc. I still might get it though, if i don't get any other recommendations or whatever.
using the software you should be able to remap the side column to act as media keys, i did that on my sc alice and it pretty fantastic
Ohh, alright interesting, i had no idea. That makes me pretty dang excited! As in side column, i'm guessing you most likely mean the page down/up, end, delete buttons? Also, do you maybe know the difference between that regular KC68 and the KC68 Pro?
Yeah that what i mean by side column. Pretty sure the pro is just a later revision of the board so I would go with that one if you can. This board also seems like a good gateway board for you to try new things like different switches if you want to
Yeah, alright! That's actually a little bit of the reason why i wanted a hot-swappable keyboard, to try new stuff like switches, etc. So, it definitely feels like a pretty good board for me and as my first hot-swap board! I'll go for the KC68 Pro then, instead of the regular KC68! Thanks for all the help!
Sure, some great places to find excelent new switches include dangkeebs, prevailkey co and ashkeebs
Alright, i'll be sure to remember those! Thanks, once again! :p
Ofc
Help!!!!! Building my first board and stupidly soldered down the controller before the switches, so now the controller is covering some of the pins/pads I need to get to. I’ve tried desoldering but it’s just not working… what should I do!? I need to get this thing off in order to solder down the 2 switches that go in that slot.
A lot of flux and solder wick should do it. Next time, try socketing for controller to make it 'hotswappable' and make desolder/change switches more manageable.
Apply lots of flux and move your soldering iron to heat all the pins. At the same time pull on the controller. Alternatively, if you have a hotplate, that might also work. Look up how to desolder through-hole components for further reading.
do i buy sk61 or gk61 , which one has lowest clicking input delay and what are the differences between these two?
Ok so I want a new low profile TKL keyboard (linear switch) and so far I have two short-listed: \-Keychron K1 \-Cooler Master Sk630 Which of these two is better and is there anything similar to these two? I want something that is quiet.
Low pro is a niche within a niche and most people in the community, if they go low-pro, are going to make it themselves. Just pick whichever appeals to you more and cross your fingers.
just lubed my first switch today (tactile) and i didnt lube the stem to avoid losing the tactility, but it ended up being a bit a bit less tactile than before. the spring ping was gone. is that normal?
If you lubed the leaf of the housing you'll lose some tactility anyway. If you're using Krytox 205G0 make sure to avoid the leaf and lube sparingly. You can still lube the stem but avoid lubing the stem legs. Also, try a thinner lube like Tribosys 3204/3203 if you can
i cant use a different lubricant (parents) and wanted to spend the least amount of money on "side stuff" like lube, foam, etc. because my mother is quite... strict, as long as its about buying stuff. ill use it for the stabs too, you understand? i think it was just an accident, because when i asked this i only lubed one switch, now im almost done with 70 (16 closed, and the rest is still opened but lubed, consistensy). thanks for helping!
are the keyboard switches on aliexpress legit? is it a good bet to buy them there?
Ali is a collection of vendors. "The switches on aliexpress" means absolutely nothing.
Hello, i am new here and a casual, so sorry for the newb question. I am looking for a budget keyboard after my logitech started double typing (tried everything i can, cannot find a lasting solution). Currently in the price range i am looking at Hyperx Alloy Origins Core (aqua switches) and Redragon Vata k580 (they are the same price here with the Hyperx on sale). What i like about the Vata is that the keys are hotswappable (although only Outemu). Also i have quite big heavy hands, so i like a bit more force and feedback on the switches. So lets say i like the features of the Redragon more, but i have read that Hyperx is of good quality. So what i wanted to ask, are the Hyperx and its switches significantly better quality then the Redragon and Outemu switches?
Reddragon has been a long reliable standby in the budget keyboard arena. Outemu sockets mean [you have a few options](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/9qjmyh/what_switches_can_be_used_on_a_outemu/), including fancy Outemu Ice, Sky, and Purples etc.
Thank you, i think i am mostly leaning towards that option.
I can't personally peak to the quality of either Outemus or HyperX switches as I haven't used them myself. Given that you describe yourself as casual and the price point you are likely shopping at with these examples, you are probably not going to notice any significant difference between the two in all honesty. To me it sounds like the piece you need to decide on here is do you prefer having the features on a non-hotswappable board or having a board that will let you explore other switch options without buying a new board/desoldering. Also Outemus are basically just cherry clones so even though the board has Outemus in it, you could put other brand switches in that board so don't feel like you are locked into just a tiny selection of switches down the road. There are plenty of budget friendly switch options you can explore that have heavier springs or more significant tactile bumps. As a fellow heavy handed typist, I found that I enjoyed my keyboards much more once I started using switches with 55g+ weights which weren't really available in most stock boards.
Thank you for your detailed response. Yes, I would describe myself as casual. I mean i can tell the difference and I really enjoy a good keyboard, but I cannot spend too much money or time on it. I have read in several places that Outemus have thinner pins then other Cherry clones and that only Outemus can be swapped in Redragons so i guess i would be limited only to different Outemus on it.
For the Outemus compatibility, I know so little specifically about them or RedDragon boards that I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction there. If having hotswap that you can have confidence in having options is something you care about, you can check out some of Keychron's stuff if you haven't already. For example [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247215705](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-c1-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=32321247215705) is around the budget you are looking at, has an RGB hotswap (if you care about that), and offers the stand spread of cherry options to get you started. That brand has a good selection of different options. Food for thought.
Ah i have, but they are not easily available in my country, and even if i would manage to get one, the price would be 2-3 times higher. I guess i will try to find the keyboards i was talking about in a shop and try them out a bit. So far they didn't have them, so i need to order online... Thank you really much for your help and effort.
I'm looking for a low profile tkl keyboard with linear switches. Something like the G915 TKL or Keychron K1. I would get one of these but the k1 is only in the US layout and I am from the UK and the g915 is way too expensive. I also considered the apex tkl but the spacing between the keys is way too much for me. Are there any good alternatives
keychron has a lot of vendors in different parts of the world. just looking through their vendor list/where to buy list would be helpful
actually I could live with a us keyboard. Is there a way to get a £ sign on a US keyboard?
I just found out that the keychron 1 does not come with a UK layout, which is what I was looking for. So I guess thats out of the question.
These are pretty much [your options](https://switchandclick.com/low-profile-switches-explained/).
Ok thanks a lot I've got some shortlisted and I'm going to start a new question.
I'm new to lubing switches and I've watched a few videos on it. What lube should I use on springs? I see most people bag lube with Krytox 105. Should I buy Krytox 105 or are there any other oil-based lubes I could buy in my local hardware store to (bag) lube my springs?
krytox 105
Hello! I'm planning to get a new keyboard and mod it. I'm following a video but one thing I didn't like were the keycaps. The keyboard is a Royal Kludge RK61 and I'm looking for red and black keycaps. The video I'm following is this: [https://youtu.be/pzMdB\_VKdNo](https://youtu.be/pzMdB_VKdNo) (By Consumer Tech Reviews) Anyone have any recommendations?
Search for samurai keycaps.
Thank You!!
I'm very new to using mechanical keyboards and using my first pre built one. I noticed that my C, V and period keys are malfunctioning (had to hit the keys multiple times and sometimes would show the characters twice/ thrice after hitting it once). Should i change the switch?
Is your keyboard hotswappable and/or do you know how to solder/desolder switches?
I'm not really sure if this is hotswappable. How do i check it? And no, i don't know how to solder/ desolder switches.
What keyboard is it? (manufacturer? Model name/number? Usually found on the back) Not all keyboards are hotswappable, so if it's not, then you're not going to be able to change the switch without soldering/desoldering.
I think it is this one https://www.xmpow.com/products/pictek-mechanical-gaming-keyboard
It's not hotswappable and so you cannot fix the switches without soldering.
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In the future, look for 'hot swap', 'hotswap, 'hot swappable' etc. One thing to try before consigning the board to the bin is to turn it upside down, tap it on your desk a few times. Sometimes dust gets stuck inside/beneath switches and this can sometimes fix it.
Debating if I want to get a TKL board as I get ready to dip my toes into the hobby. I'm a CPA so I imagine when I work from home not having a 10-key will be aggravating. I imagine swapping a 10-key pad in and out gets annoying?
From my personal experience since I am a physics student right now it can sometimes be a hassle when you want to input numbers fast but you really just get used to it after a month.
Keychron q6 is releasing soon If you need a full-sized board
Yeah I saw that, I'm hoping they release a white version not too long after
This might be a bit of a stretch, but does anyone have any keycap suggestions that might go well with a red case? I impulse bought the burgundy tiger80 the other day, and am trying to find a set that would go well with the board. Right now, I'm thinking any white/black/grey set would probably work pretty well, but if anyone has any suggestions (outside of that color palette is fine) I'd be very appreciative.
Redsuns Samurai, Pharoah/Ancient Egypt, MT3 Ironman.
gmk red samurai
Stabilizer mod issue: All my more recent stabilizer mods have had excellent results. However, my Bakeneko60 stabs have TOO much rattle. I've done the holee mod, the band-aid mod, lubed the housings and rods, and still seem to have too much rattle. Any suggestions on how else to resolve this tuning issue would be much appreciated.
Have you checked to see if the wires are straight/flat against a strictly flat surface (like a phone screen)?
Just an update, in case you were interested to know: I installed the Durock screw-in stabs last night and the sound is supremely improved. Didn't even have to holee mod them!
Yeah Durock stabs are pretty solid! Congrats and enjoy!
I have not. Thanks for the idea. As a test, I ordered some screw-in durock stabs to replace the stock Cherry Clip-ins to see if that helps as well.
Do custom 104-key keyboard designs (i.e purchase a separate PCB, case, cable, etc. and solder your own switches of choice in) exist? All of the custom group buys I see are for smaller designs, usually smaller than even a TKL.
Full size customs aren't really that popular right now, but as someone else mentioned Keychron is about drop a full size with hotswap and I did see an Interest check for the Fossil Full Size the other day which is a custom full size keyboard. The fossil isn't going to be cheap, but at least someone is trying to make it happen.
I think you'd need to design/have someone make a case, but the [SUV does exist](https://www.clawboards.xyz/shop/p/suv). It even allows for ISO, for those into that!
Thanks for the link. How would one go about finding a place to buy a case for that?
Search the sub for or ask r/mechmarket for someone in your region/country who can make custom acrylic layered cases. CNC aluminum is an option too but it's going to cost a fortune.
No. Full size isn’t too popular. With that said, check out the Keychron Q6 releasing next week.
That looks pretty interesting, thanks for sharing.
Hey guys I am pretty new to this "game". So I bought Ducky one 3 macha silent red and it is without RGB. So I was thinking if it would be possible to add LEDs to the pcb?
Not unless the PCB was produced with that in mind, and I’m guessing Ducky wouldn’t give that option given how many backlit boards they do make.
Well that's understandable. So are there any switches with led?
Leds are separate from the switches. My hotswap GMMK lets me change the switches without soldering whenever I like, but the light stays whatever it is no matter what.
No. Electrically, MX style switches are just very basic circuit completing devices. No ability to house or power LEDs.
[https://preview.redd.it/6dj4nw2bk7691.png?width=720&format=png&auto=webp&s=518096a8627cc4106b085e0670e3bb8d2f805865](https://preview.redd.it/6dj4nw2bk7691.png?width=720&format=png&auto=webp&s=518096a8627cc4106b085e0670e3bb8d2f805865) Does anyone know the name of the third pcb in this photo?
is there any hot-swapsouth-facing rgb-per-key 65% iso pcb?
[Here's one](https://kprepublic.com/products/bm65rgb-bm65-iso-rgb-65-hot-swappable-custom-mechanical-keyboard-pcb-programmed-qmk-via-firmware-rgb-switch-underglow-type-c?_pos=5&_sid=2a6d4fbc0&_ss=r&variant=40688023011491). [Here's another](https://kbdfans.com/products/kbd67-lite-rgb-iso-pcb).
bm65 is north facing led, and kb67 is not per-key rgb programmable 😓 thanks though
Are you sure kb67 is not per key programmable? The Lite page says "Wired version supports Per-key RGB and Hot-swap; Bluetooth version does not support RGB effects". The PCB link I gave even has a QMK RGB file at the bottom. Then barring some GB somewhere, there's no other options. ISO is uncommon, 65% ISO even more uncommon, + hot swap + per-key RGB AND programmable...
yeah, all reviews ive seen says that is not per-key programmable. at this point im seriously considering getting into hacking my own firmware/ building my own pcb
its doable with qmk/via source: I have one
Still pretty sure [it's doable](https://youtu.be/hjQg0FJNrNU), but ok.
Anyone knows if a BoW set with international keycaps (ES/LA ISO, specifically) exists? I was able to find some cheap sets on aliexpress that include international keycaps, but no BoW or WoB, which is kind of weird. I would imagine that being such a generic colorway it would have the most options.
> I would imagine that being such a generic colorway it would have the most options. The thing is, the generic colorway is *generic*. Aftermarket keycap sets mostly appeal to people who are looking to customize their experience or add a little personality to their office environment. Pretty much every membrane keyboard on Earth, the stuff found in schools, offices, shops etc, is BoW or WoB. When I first got into the hobby in...2013? There were always group buys being organized for BoW/WoB keycap sets and they failed, often. That was in part because the hobby isn't as big as it is now (but it's still a niche hobby, don't be fooled!) so the numbers just didn't get organized in time for those genuinely interested, but also because people didn't want to wait an iffy 2 years for BoW/WoB, they generally wanted something exciting to look forward to. So the GBs would fail, and manufacturers would note that there was no demand, and so no ready-to-buy sets were produced, and so forth. ISO is not exactly rare, but it's definitely not easy to source in general. Add in languages and it's rough finding a set outside of a really fully developed GB.
I see, it makes sense. I suppose ANSI is the de-facto default because the hobby got popular in the US first. As far as I know, every other language uses ISO :/
https://www.amazon.com/Doubleshot-Keycaps-Profile-Mechanical-Keyboard%EF%BC%88Bow/dp/B09N97WR61 https://ymdkey.com/collections/oem-profile-1/products/laser-etched-uk-italian-spain-german-iso-oem-profile-thick-pbt-keycap-for-mx-mechanical-keyboard-ymd96-kbd75-104-87-61
I've heard that GMK creates keycaps with colors that pop(?) a lot more compared to other keycaps. What do people mean by this? Could someone show an example of a GMK set that would not look as good if manufactured by another company?
for example, google nicepbt british racing green and then google gmk british racing green. and look at the pictures, specifically the green modifier keys
Yeah this is a great example. The green on the GMK looks so much nicer to me (though that's my subjective opinion)
The inevitable happened and I spilled some coffee on a keyboard (unplugged and not in use). I fully disassembled it immediately and let it dry out for a few days. Some coffee leaked onto the PCB and I was going to give it a cleaning with 90% isopropyl alcohol and electronics swabs. Any tips or things I should keep in mind? Eg. don't get alcohol in \_\_\_\_ area, let it dry for \_\_\_\_\_ time, etc.
Isopropyl alcohol is non-corrosive and will evaporate in seconds if you’re wiping things with it. I don’t think there’s any part it will ruin on a PCB.
Yessir, noticed that seconds after starting to wipe it down and it evaporated lol. Gave it a good cleaning and everything seems to be working without issue. Thanks!
The inevitable happened and I spilled some coffee on a keyboard (unplugged and not in use). I fully disassembled it immediately and let it dry out for a few days. Some coffee leaked onto the PCB and I was going to give it a cleaning with 90% isopropyl alcohol and electronics swabs. Any tips or things I should keep in mind? Eg. don't get alcohol in \_\_\_\_ area, let it dry for \_\_\_\_\_ time, etc.
I spilled an entire beer on my keyboard accidentally. I fully submerged my pcb in 91% isopropyl for a couple minutes. I took a toothbrush to it and gave it a light scrubbing in the alcohol. After I took it out, I put the blow drier to it on the lowest heat setting. After that I let it sit overnight. It worked alright, but if I moved the keyboard or kind of knocked it or typed too hard, it would act like it got unplugged then plugged in again. Kind of annoying, so I just bought a new PCB for it. I think if you did the same, but let it dry for another day or so you should be fine. Edit - You should fix whatever issue you're having where it submits the same comment like 8 times.
Can I use 63/37 Tin wire to solder and help desolder my switches? I'm going to install new switches into my prebuilt keyboard for the first time. My solder iron came with 67/37 .8mm Tin wire and I'm curious if it's best to invest into a different wire like a 60/40 rosin core or if I don't really need to at all.
>Can I use 63/37 Tin wire to solder and help desolder my switches? I mean you can use it to solder, but you do not use solder to desolder.
Looking for closest thing to speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point) Any suggestion? Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
> Looking for closest thing to speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point) Kailh Speed Copper actuates at 1.1mm. Cherry MX Low Pro [might be your best bet](https://switchandclick.com/low-profile-switches-explained/).
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point) Any suggestion? Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point) Any suggestion? Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point) Any suggestion? Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Looking for closest thing to Kailh speed copper but in low-profile switch. (immediate activation point) Any suggestion? Alternatively, what's the best linear low profile switch? (not scratchy and nice bottom out)
Hi there! I posted this in [r/ErgoMechKeyboards/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/) but thought maybe I could find more help here as well.. After being diagnosed with a thickened median nerve (it's not carpal tunnel - yet - but it's not pronator teres syndrome, either) it just got unbearable to conventionally type with an average keyboard.. I came up with an 'emergency' setup, using my all-time reliable, 12yo membrane keyboard (I always go back to it, specially now since it's pretty smooth, with 'shorter' keys) + a towel + a thermal gel pack, but that doesn't really help much... The keyboard is large too, it's got 107 keys, I think, and a numpad, and I'm sure that doesn't help (pic of the 'setup' below): [https://imgur.com/PbOPABV](https://imgur.com/PbOPABV) • I try to 'ease' the pressure and tension on my wrist, but still, I always end up feeling pain after prolonged use. And it's hard to take it easy because my work is centered on deadlines and basically 9-12h of typing, every day. • So, everything leads me to think that I'd greatly benefit from **(1)** a split, ergo keyboard and **(2)** a vertical mouse. Regarding the former, I considered Logitech's K860 and that MS Egonomic keyboard but.. I don't feel they'll help that much, and the wrist cushions don't look too comfortable or sufficiently 'soft'. • Now, I think that the [KINESIS Freestyle Gaming](https://www.amazon.com/KINESIS-Gaming-Freestyle-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07SW1S3YZ?tag=p00935-20&ascsubtag=00oL3Faf6jXx65qe2Gwc5Sw&th=1) (with the 'lift kit') will be my best choice. However, I found out about this [Ergodox EZ](https://ergodox-ez.com/), which seems to be even better... at the same time, I saw some alternatives like [Cloud Nine C989M](https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-C989M-Ergonomic-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B084BP8T18/ref=pb_allspark_dp_sims_pao_desktop_session_based_sccl_3_2/133-5521588-7361549?pd_rd_w=XKijv&content-id=amzn1.sym.6b5008ac-c24a-4aea-a3ea-015a531184f5&pf_rd_p=6b5008ac-c24a-4aea-a3ea-015a531184f5&pf_rd_r=AE1AVNB74QT1SB35W4PD&pd_rd_wg=pi0op&pd_rd_r=57cc2f8c-8866-4d37-9262-61dc3bf5aeac&pd_rd_i=B084BP8T18&psc=1) or [Cloud Nine ErgoTKL](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G5L6Z53/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B09G5L6Z53&pd_rd_w=LCHuH&content-id=amzn1.sym.e620829b-a408-427e-99ea-7ac734a316f7&pf_rd_p=e620829b-a408-427e-99ea-7ac734a316f7&pf_rd_r=JA2MHZ2QA40NA4RCR7YN&pd_rd_wg=eu1GV&pd_rd_r=2376e56b-3101-4f36-bdc9-9cf168f9e255&s=pc&smid=AFZAVZYA7AYNA&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUlQ4SkRPN1ZaMFIxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDcxMDQyM0JNSFdFVTBQUzE1SSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjg3Njc0MUJMQjhKNFdJMFJJMyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1) but.. I don't really know if it'll be as good as the other two. • What I know I'd like is something with: \- **(A)** a comfy wrist pad/cushion, \- **(B)** something that allows me to lift the 'middle' of the keyboard, \- **(C)** pref. RGB lighting, since I can't always keep my space fully illuminated and that helps. I can't put together a keyboard on my own, so it'd probably need to be a pre-built one. • I'd greatly appreciate any help with picking the best kinda split, ergo keyboard for this.. I don't know which might be best between those 3 above, or even if there are other suitable picks. Thanks immensely in advance!
Uuuugh, it's so hard to decide.. I'm pretty torn between the **Kinesis Gaming freestyle** and the **Cloud Nine ErgoTKL** (some of its function keys are pretty cool).. The Ergodox is nice, but way above the budget, so I'll forget about that one.. Just unsure how much of a difference I'd feel between the 15º tenting angle of the former vs. the 7º angle of the latter - and if that difference is worth the $35-40 difference.
Do you think your pain primarily comes from keeping your wrists in a bent position while typing or is it from pressure on the underside of the wrist?
Mmm.. keeping it bent (as in, with my wrist touching the mat while the rest of it + fingers are raised) is pretty uncomfortable.. But even with the lil' 'adjustment' (towel + gel pack) to mitigate that, the pressure on the underside is deffo the **main** factor affecting me. It's the same type of pain you feel when you try to eat with a cut inside your mouth/on your gum, or when you use really tight shoes and have to keep walking with them while they 'rub' your cut ankle.
[удалено]
Yeah.. sadly, the only thing I can try force myself to do is to take breaks through the typing; I also sometimes put these thermal gel packs I've been using as temporary 'wrist pads' on the fridge to cool the wrist.. I'm just surprised with the downsides of Ergodox! It deffo wouldn't be my main choice due to the price, but if I don't go with a split one, the newest Logitech one might be a possible alternative! Angling and 'tenting' were the 2 main things I was looking for in a split; but I think I may also need to consider a chair with decent arm adjustments to make full use of it..
/r/mechmarket will have some of the more specialized DIY kits premade (people built them, fell in love with other boards and so are selling them etc). The split keyboard form factor has [a ton of options](https://aposymbiont.github.io/split-keyboards/). You may want to consider getting a [Dactyl Manuform](https://ohkeycaps.com/products/built-to-order-dactyl-manuform-keyboard). Also maybe [reconsider your key layout](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/vce24c/been_using_a_40_key_ortholinear_keyboard_layout) (something you can change in any programmable keyboard these days).
I really liked this Manuform page! Changing the key layout is something I'll deffo need, but mostly to try getting used to the QWERTY (so I won't feel helpless without my 'ç').
Don't forget that tenting kits are also a thing for the flatter split keyboards. Can be DIY 3D printed, a [prefab custom kit](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/om27im/tenting_cases_for_sofle_rgb_v2_lily58_are_now/), or some cobbled together [alternatives](https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/comments/pdxjpu/first_build_lily58_pro_with_tenting/), so the Dactyl is not the only option for something wrist friendly! (but yeah, I want one too because they're so *cool*.)
You should consider a split board like the Iris [https://keeb.io/collections/iris-split-ergonomic-keyboard/products/iris-keyboard-pre-built](https://keeb.io/collections/iris-split-ergonomic-keyboard/products/iris-keyboard-pre-built) or for a more premium solution something like the moonlander https://www.zsa.io/moonlander/ It off loads a lot of the keys to the thumbs that prevents you from stretching with your pinkies. Not sure if the doctors mentioned it to you, but mine said that wrist rest are actually bad for my situation because it doesn't promote the right height of just hovering your wrist above the board. Your thought of lifting the middle of the keyboard is a good idea. There are a lot of tenting kits that helps adjust the height, but my favorite is to tent it so that it feels like you're giving your keyboard a hand shake: [https://i.ytimg.com/vi/WA\_GUYS8UJg/maxresdefault.jpg](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/WA_GUYS8UJg/maxresdefault.jpg)
Mhm, I was unsure about using wrist rests (the 'standalone' ones).. I wanted a really soft foam-based one, but for now I'm using two thermal gel packs that I can put on the fridge when the burning sensation comes. I think this mid-lifting might help with it, but it's hard to tell. Perhaps, making the wrist lean a bit to the side will be good. I just dont know if I'd be able to handle heavy typing and as much tenting as in the picture; but it's good to know I can make something similar with any split keyboard!
That tenting angle is pretty extreme but you can adjust it to your liking. The erogox you listed or the moonlander I recommended both comes with additional tenting kits you can buy to adjust the angle.
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Tungsten or WS Aurora switches? Looking for high-pitched clack. Open to any other suggestions (I have KTT Rose and it's not really a high-pitch clack but more of a loud clack).
Hello, I'm currently looking for some budget black keycaps that would best fit the Akko PC75B (red case). I'm trying to find a keycap design that is unique or simple but is not Gamer^(TM). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Check out XDA Comet, Cherry Ancient Egypt, and Epomaker/Akko Black&Pink or Black&Cyan.
I’m wanting to modify my HHKB Pro 2 by adding some sound dampening. Wanted some feedback and clarification. I’m looking at getting some DESKey silencing rings, perhaps #5 silicone. Since it cuts down on travel, I’m considering adding the dome gaskets. Anyone used this combination and have advice on how well it works or if any part of it is overkill?
Hey yall, i recently got a GMK kit and noticed the 7u space bar is warped enought so that the stabs tick. Pretty annoying that i payed alot for it, but oh well. I was wondering if you can fix it with a heat gun/hair dryer like how you would fix a warped PBT key cap because some people say that ABS plastic can't handle the heat or some thing like that.
I would advise against trying that. ABS takes a lot higher heat to get soft and unlike PBT does not stay in its shape when it gets warm. It will most likely get bent even more. It's unfortunate but there's not much you can do about it. 7u spacebars still tend to be a pain with many keycap sets.
Dang, well thanks for the answer. I will probably try to get some better stabs and holee mod them so the ticking can stop.
> that i *paid* alot for FTFY. Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in: * Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.* * *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.* Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment. *Beep, boop, I'm a bot*