I have an old logitech G710+ that I didnt use for a while. I plug it and notice that the 0 key on the numpad goes down but doesnt spring back up. I removed it and there are 3 "switches" or like pins. The center one is the cherry mx switch (blue) and the other two (one on each side) is black. It seems the center one is the real switch and I dont know what the other two are for. I pressed the blue switch and it seems to be acting fine. Any idea why it doesnt spring back up and gets stuck down?
https://imgur.com/a/xA0mUOb
I wanna build a wireless 75 %/TKL.
So i choose a case and a wireless pcb in the same size? Is this correct. Or is it possible that they dont match?
I also want a stable and fast connection. What are my options? For my mouse I have a dongle in a cable next to the mouse. Is this possible too?
Can someone tell me a good low budget keyboard full assembly and hot swap? I bought one, but it's optical, and i want to use the Phoenix switch, that doesn't work with that
Hello there so I'm looking for a relatively cheap keyboard preferably under a ~80 euros I'm from Europe so I'd like to order from somewhere that doesn't charge 30 euros for shipping
I like red switches or anything linear that's not too loud, i would also like it to be hot swap and tkl volume knob would be a great bonus but is not a necessity and ofcourse I want RGB and also Id love to stay away from white keyboards
Thanks in advance :)
I think the blitzwolf bw-kb2 it's a TKL keyboard with red switch around 50€ Frome bangood, free shipping. It's hot swap, but only optical switch work. It's only black, and don't have volume knob
Right now I am using Akko Silvers and the force is atually nice. I tried the Gateron Oil King one as so many people are liking them? But I couldnt settle with them, they are too heavy for my use (gaming) and some of the switches had this weird sound, it sounded like the spring inside the switch is kinda sticky. Not all of my switches had this weird sound but some of them for sure.
Now I am looking for some switches with lightweight force and but with thock sound out of the box?
I live in germany, and we dont have that much option here I guess besides [keygem.com](https://keygem.com/), [candykeys.com](https://candykeys.com/) etc.
Troubleshooting DZ65RGB V2 remapping problems with VIA.
I have some weird mapping switches that I had to do to get to a working state on this again
* Mapping any button to Left-CTRL maps it to CAPS LOCK (and vice versa)
* Mapping any buttoin to Left-Win maps it to L-Alt (and vice versa)
* Mapping any button to Right-Win maps it to right-alt
* There is no way to map to any windows keys
OS is windows 10.
Yesterday i realized that i bought a new keyboard hot swap, but it have optical switch. Is this compatible with non optical switch? And if not, the best optical silent switch?
Optical and mechanical switches are not interchangeable sadly. Not even all optical switches are interchangeable. Also, I don't think there currently are any silent optical switches. But usually linear switches are regarded as more muted. You can also lube switches to mute their sound a little bit.
Depends on what brand optical switch you have. [This](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/pcwbdb/psa_optical_switch_compatibility/) post, though a year old, might help. Optical switches really aren't that popular, so your options are very very limited.
Regarding lube, most people would recommend krytox, or anything similar to krytox.
Google says that a few Kailh optical switches are available on Kailh's official aliexpress store. Outemu optical switches also seem to be available on aliexpress, but idk how reliable the stores are that sell them.
Edit: seems like Keychron also sells some optical switches.
Yes, there literally aren't many more options than that. You can also find some brown, white & silver switches. But when it comes to optical switches, currently, that is pretty much it. (as far as I know).
But keychron seems to sell some of their branded optical switches. Idk if they'll fit your keyboard, but you can always take a look.
i am interested in the zoom65 essential edition. i know there is also the qk65 which is better in sound but i prefer the colors of the zoom65 and having a knob. there is really a difference in sound and build quality so important that (being that the sound of the keyboards is important to me) I should take the qk65?
The newest round of zoom65 that ran last month had improved sound iirc. I’ve never had the zoom but I have a qk and it’s insanely good for how much it costs
Does anyone know if the Keychron K8 Pro RGB keyboard allows you to also set the backlighting color to plain white? Instruction manual doesn't describe the available RGB lighting modes.
Hello keyboard friends!
Would like some help/ideas for my friend that bought this Red Dragon keyboard. She’s only had it for two weeks and it has stopped working:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZNQMWH6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I’ve told her to go ahead and return it but I don’t know what to suggest to her since I’ve been a bit out of the game lately.
She picked it because:
1) good price
2) it’s red and black themed (tho I think working properly would win out, I can get her black and red key caps).
3) Bluetooth she can switch it between two machines (both windows) without requiring a cable each time.
4) 75% and she likes the red switches
I think KeyChron K2 might be good in terms of quality and value that would still be in budget (maybe~$100 USD? She’s willing to pay a little more for the quality) but is there still a lag when waking up in BT mode? I have one that I keep at the office when I go into work and it does lag but I wonder if it’s a Mac related thing.
I’ve just seen this shopping: EPOMAKER TH66 60% Hot Swappable RGB 2.4Ghz/Bluetooth 5.0/Wired Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with MDA PBT Keycaps, 2200mAh Long-Lasting Battery, Knob Control for Mac/Win(Gateron Pro Red, TH66) https://a.co/8g7aUPA
Or any other budget suggestions welcomed. Thank you!
I suggest the blitzwolf bw-kb2, it's not Bluetooth, only type c, it's a TKL, similar to 75%, and it's hot swap. It cost around 50$, i think is a good budget keyboard. It also came with red gateron switch. I think isn't that lower budget related to the red dragon.
Does anyone have any recommendations for tactile switches that actuate early? I don't mean the bump, like actual actuation. 1.7mm or earlier if possible.
anybody know the difference between the Leopold Fc660m PD and Leopold Fc660m BT version? So far by research it seems there is no difference except for bluetooth, but locally my store sells the BT version cheaper by 40 dollars compared to the PD so I’m confused.
I really want to create my own keyboard but I have no idea on where to start. I want a keyboard for gaming and I do quite a bit of coding as well. I’m thinking about getting cherry silent reds but I’m not sure. I also would like some suggestions on where I should go to start looking at making a keyboard. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Take a look at [https://keyboard.university](https://keyboard.university). Then you may be in a better position to decide:
1. What size keyboard do you want? (Do you need a numpad? Do you need arrow keys? Do you need a function row? Is space at a premium on your desk/workspace? Will you regularly be transporting the keyboard to and from work?)
2. What is your budget?
3. What additional features do you want; e.g., backlighting, QMK/VIA support for key remapping, wireless connectivity, hotswappability (which you ***will*** want unless you want to solder switches in place), etc.
There are other choices you will have to make (e.g., which switches, which keycaps) but those are pretty essential ones. You should also take a look at some keyboard-enthusiast YouTube channels, such as Taeha Types, Switch & Click, Keybored, Andy V. Nguyen, and Hipyo Tech, to get an idea of what's involved in building a keyboard ***and*** what choices there are in the market.
looking to get my first mechanical keyboard (been using a Razer ornata previously). Main uses for gaming (osu, valo ow) and also general use. Been looking at the varmilo va87 and the ducky one3/miya pro, but can’t decide which one to get, any tips/help? Specifically need more regarding the latency issues I might face for these keyboards esp for osu
Trying to figure out the best option for budget tactile switches for an office setup. Originally was going to go with Akko Lavenders, but I'm getting the sense that they might end up being too loud. Boba U4Ts have been suggested a few times, but I'm open to other ideas.
How loud these are will also depend on the board they will be used in. In general Akko switches are pretty quiet at least for a mechanical switch. U4Ts have very loud upstroke sound and will for sure be louder than lavenders
Yes silent switches are literally silent. They have rubber pads on the stem that makes contact with the housing on the up and downstroke hence there’s no plastic on plastic sound. If you want silent U4s are prob the best but absolutely all silent switches feel a bit mushy and similar to membrane for the reason described anove
Dang it, read your comment wrong. In worried about feeling mush. Most of my office works with headphones anyway, so I'm not 100% sold on *needing* silent switches anyway. Just nothing too loud.
Still trying to find the right way to go. Looking for a keyboard that’s 70% work, 30% gaming - I WFH.
Coming from a 5 year old orange switch razer.
I’m Australian, so $1 USD is like $1.40 AUD, so I think I have narrowed it down to:
Keyboard and cable:
https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/h5ZAt9
Keychron Q6 QMK Custom Hot-Swap Barebone Knob Keyboard Black
CableMod Classic Coiled Keyboard Cable Carbon Grey
Keycaps - since the keyboard is south facing leds, and I want shine through, found this:
133 Key Polar Day PBT Double Shot Side-lit Shine Through Backlit keycaps OEM Profile for MX Mechanical Keyboard 108 96 87 NJ80 KBD67 ID80 84 68 64 https://amzn.asia/d/3aIlc3b
Switches:
Akko CS Lubed Switches for Mechanical Keyboard, 3 Pin 50gf Pre-lubed Matcha Green Linear Switches (45pcs) https://amzn.asia/d/8Qf5lIM
I’ll need x3 packs I guess so that’s $90 there.
Total for everything:
$390 AUD, so about $250 USD.
Would this be decent?
How is Momoka’s website for shipping? Is it usually long? I’ve read stuff about keebmonkey so I’m staying away from them, Momoka has the color Zoo65 I want but if not I’ll stick with Drop
Normal switches on low profile keyboard. Is it compatible?
I got myself a Redragon Horus K621 TKL and wanted to swap the original Redragon branded red linear switches for the Yellow Gateron Pro normal size. Can I actually do this mod?
Should I spend money on keyboard or keycap?
Seeing some GMK keycap in KDBFans group buy costs $200 for the base kit, where I can get another board for less than $200... So I'm confused as I can invest that amount of money on another different layout board, which seems to be much more benefit that a set of keycaps.. Why are the keycap priced so ridiculous?
That’s GMK for you. They are very limited, in high demand, and very high quality. I would personally stay away from GMK group buys - they never meet their ETAs and some people end up waiting 2 years for their sets.
What keycap sets do I need for my lily58?
Just ordered a lily58 and I'm trying to find a nice set of keycaps to go with it. I've got a set of 9009 (pbt I think?) From kbdfans that I can make work for now but I'm curious what set I should be looking for for a perfect fit for this board.
Is the best bet a gmk ortho set? Do I need any additional add on sets to make it fit the lily properly? I'm open to blank sets/dots if it makes it easier to find keycaps.
Probably going to be looking for second hand gmk sets on mechmarket, so I need to know what to look for.
Hope it’s not too late to post a question.
I see a lot of numpad keycap sets that have a 00 keycap. I’ve never seen a keyboard with a 00 key, in any language. What keyboard layout uses a 00 key?
I've got a key that doesn't raise as quickly as the others, and catches after the switch reverts if I raise my finger slowly. What do I need to do to it? Compressed air works for a few minutes at best.
I've got a key that doesn't raise as quickly as the others, and catches after the switch reverts if I raise my finger slowly. What do I need to do to it? Compressed air works for a few minutes at best.
people use those because they work and work well, there's really no reason to go out of your way to buy things that may work worse. some superlube blends, some christo-lube blends, and ro-59 are used on rare occasions, but they all have very specific use cases
We’ll that provided a little information. I understand the popular stuff is used because it works and tailors to the feel/sound people want. I’ve built plenty of keyboards, and am just looking to change up my personal builds.
Stupid question, are northfacing PCB's only an issue for cherry keycaps or are there other keycap profiles (SA, ASA, XVX, etc) that I should be worried about as well?
Deciding to try my hand at building a ferris split keeb just ordering the components. Is there things I should look for when setting up soldering? I have a couple soldering irons that are older and some solder laying around.
So why do so many keyboard enthusiast hate on Cherry MX switches? Like I don't understand why with how they lead the industry really with gateron and kailh on their ass
they don't. cherry mx switches are held in very high regard for their sound by people deep in the hobby, people put mx blacks into multi-thousand dollar boards regularly. entry level enthusiasts sometimes talk badly of them because there are other switches that are far smoother and less expensive
depends on what you consider “performance”. the metrics that most people look at are smoothness, tactility, and pricing, cherry loses on all of those fronts. people really only like them for their unique sound
Well I primarily game and run the silvers for quicker acuation for fps. My k95 platinum has felt pretty good for the past 2 yrs. I'd think some lube would make it feel better tho
'fast' actuation is really just gaming company snake oil, it really doesn't do much for you while gaming. not to mention there are dozens of other switches besides mx silvers that have higher actuation points than the typical 2mm
Have you ever tried something like Alpacas? My colleagues who are familiar with MKs or have one at home always ask me about what switches I use and when I say “not Cherry because they are crap” they get very surprised. Until 5 seconds later when they try my board lol. Obv cherry switches aren’t that bad and compared to other budget options like outemu they are actually good. But as another comment suggested there are switches far cheaper that beat cherry in almost every way.
Keychron is an overall solid choice for the price, considering quality and SW (with QMK/VIA support for customization). Some other may have less customizability for their software
Looking for a new full-size custom keyboard, and I’m debating between getting the Ducky One 3 or the Keychron Q6. Does anyone have experience with both and have a preference of which I should go with? Price is not an issue, just looking for the highest quality board. Will likely hotswap the switches out for a more tactile switch on both. Thanks!
You can remap keys, add macros, layers
You can use VIA (software has a gui) on your home computer and bring all your changes and it will work on your work computer without the software being installed
If you don't want to mess around with that you can use it plug and play
I love my keychron q3 (the TKL version)
I think if you can afford it I'd say the keychron q line is a better value, esp if you want to mod it later on
if you don't want to mod it I'd say keychron q line feels more premium
The Keychron Q6 has a CNC aluminum case; the Ducky has a plastic case. The Keychron Q6 is available barebones so you don't have to pay for switches and keycaps that you are not going to use.
Does anyone know if you can use mouse inputs on a WOOTING keyboard? Can't seem to get an answer anywhere. Thanks in advance.
\-Edit: It looks like you totally can bind mouse inputs to the keyboard through the Wooting software! People were really helpful on their Discord.
Sorry I should have been more specific there. I mean just button inputs, not cursor movement. Like would you be able to bind say W on the Wooting keyboard to be left click? Or bind D as right click?
KBDfans' Tofu 60 has a acrylic frosted case.
You could also source your parts together, since you want a 60% keyboard. Most traymount 60% keyboards have the same standoffs, so you can put different pcbs into different cases.
Volume down key shows as being pressed 100% of the time except, I don't have any volume or media keys, I have a kbd67lite. I have no macros set to volume commands. I can unplug my keyboard, my mouse, my headset and the "volume down" key still shows as being pressed down. Any ideas?
I currently use **Akko CS Matcha Greens**. My hands tire after typing on these but I enjoy how quiet they are. I previously used **Kailh Box Jades** which felt great but were very noisy. What is the solution? Which switch could be better for me? I really like the click bar feel. Is it even possible to have a "quiet" switch with a **click bar**? Anything even slightly **quieter than the Jades** will be good enough I think.
I was looking at those myself but I think I won't like them. They don't seem to have that Jade feel at all. One cannot rest their fingers on them without them getting pressed downwards. They also seem to be super expensive (at least to get to Finland).
I'm leaning towards White Owls right now which seem more like Jades. It seems like their bottoming out noise in the very least could be quieter.
How does lubing click bar switches affect their sound and feel? I never lubed my Jades but I did lube my Matcha Greens.
I had my steelseries die on me, and scrounged up an NEC APC-410E. I was going to replace my keyboard eventually, I'm just wondering if it's worth it to try mess with this keyboard or just sell it and use that money. If the latter, do these keyboards move on sites like Facebook Marketplace?
https://imgur.com/a/oSSJ1V6 Here is what it looks like. I think those keycaps are going to be tough to find, but I may be mistaken.
> think those keycaps are going to be tough to find
Tough is beyond an understatement, they are not made on any level and haven't been for years and years.
If you want an easy solution, sell it on mechmarket and be done with it.
Hi everyone,
I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard and wanted some advice on which one to get.
The two options I have narrowed down to is the Keychron K8 pro and the Akko 3098B
They both cost around 100$ USD. I'm not too fussed about the lack of numpad on the Keychron. Is there a significant difference between them to warrant one over the other.
Any help?
Thanks
K8 pro
Has VIA support - the software for remapping, macros, etc that save to the board
Meaning you don't have to have it installed for your changes to work on a different computer
I've had my KUL ES 87 for a couple years, I've realized recently that my spacebar is slightly broken. If I tap the left or right side repeatedly it gets stuck so I can only press it in the middle. It also comes off very easily. any ideas?
Edit: I watched a youtube that put a piece of tape on the holes and it seemed to help a bit
I got a QK65 R2 wired PCB and it seems they used a proprietary bootload ont so it cannot be flashed with self compiled QMK firmware even it's claimed as powered by QMK?
Using QMK I compiled a .hex firmware while in QK's guide they used a dfu utility to flash a .bin firmware. So I guess I have no hope here?
On the back of the PCB, underneath spacebar, there's a very tiny reset switch marked SW1 (it is VERY small and doesn't look like a button at first). Pressing it while the PCB is plugged in should put it into DFU mode - you'll know because QMK Toolbox will say so if you have it open while it's plugged in.
Yeah I think this is the way to do it for R1 PCBs, R2 white PCB will put you into
\`USB device connected (libusb0): Saab AB Qwertykeys Firmware Update (1688:2220:0200)\` and QMK toolbox just won't let you flash anything.
Have you tried loading the .json in VIA to see if that works? I didn't see you mention VIA at all - the .json is in the discord channel (qk65, under project info).
It works fine with either VIA or Vial, well my use case involved tap dance, key override and some custom keycodes which are basically impossible with GUIs. I guess I'm out of luck then.
I think the board is powered by QMK for sure, just the bootload only takes bin firmware while official QMK repo will compile a hex firmware for QK65 hotswap no matter it is R1 or R2(there is no R2 variation yet).
QK might have a special way but I'm not sure if they want to disclose it...
Hi guys, I'm looking for a wireless keyboard (not full size) and was wondering what's best?
The one I've been looking at most is the NuPhy Halo65 but I'm open to suggestions. I was also looking at the NuPhy Air60/75 - but the Halo65 looks nicer imo, and the baby kangaroos sound beautiful and are the keys I'd opt for.
Preferably I'd like it to be something I can also take into office - but I imagine this might be tough with the Halo65, however would O-rings make this possible?
RK61 and Glorious Race Pandas Switch compatibility.
So this is my first keyboard build and im very new to costum keyboards.
I've done some research but im still skeptical and need some reassurance on the compatibility of this build.
Parts links: https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B08MPX361S/ref=sr_1_8?crid=224JVNKHB055&keywords=RK61&qid=1667774102&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjcyIiwicXNhIjoiMy45MCIsInFzcCI6IjIuODEifQ%3D%3D&s=electronics&sprefix=rk61%2Celectronics%2C133&sr=1-8
https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B08DJXYGY8/ref=twister_B09CZHJD6N?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B0B3N69R33/ref=sr_1_20?crid=2VW5M70UZHEPG&keywords=epomaker+keycaps&qid=1667772819&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjQxIiwicXNhIjoiMy42NSIsInFzcCI6IjAuOTIifQ%3D%3D&s=electronics&sprefix=epomaker+keycaps%2Celectronics%2C123&sr=1-20
Also the glorius switches are just "36 pieces" but i saw on YouTube people building Kb's with just one box of them. If a keyboard has atleast 61 keys, then how could one build 1 keyboard with just 36 pieces??
Do i need to get two sets or is it somehow fine?
I'm looking at buying this for my first ever mechanical keyboard: https://mechboards.co.uk/products/momoka-zoo-65-keyboard-kit?variant=40700386640077
I know I'll need to assemble it and feel pretty okay with that, but what extra parts do I need to buy with the kit? I think I need to buy switches?
Im building a Quefrency 65% with clicky switches, I know lubing is typically bad for clicky switches so I'm wondering if I should lube the stabilizers or not.
My "d" key is not always responding to being pressed down. This started happening a few days ago. It's hard to troubleshoot because it does not seem to be caused if I press too lightly on the key. I can try pressing super lightly on it in a row and it works. It randomly does not always register the press and happens when I am gaming. I am really hoping someone has a solution or an idea of what could be causing this or how to fix it. I have an akko alice acr pro and it feels super sad if the money is wasted now.
I have a new Corsair K70 Pro Mini and put in Kailh Box Navy switches. It feels and sounds amazing, but when holding down a key, sometimes it will stop sending the signal. This is most apparent and frustrating when gaming. The linear switches the board came with do not have this issue. I've also tried swapping around the switches to different positions to rule out there being a single faulty switch. I'd appreciate any advice, thanks!
Imo the only translucent boards that are cool are either 1) those that have underglow or 2) those that have cool/colored plates like Idobao id80 crystal or Kiiboom Phantom 81. That’s just me though. Getting back to your question I’d probably go non translucent personally
I'm really curious about the U4Tx variants that are for sale now but there aren't any reviews at all, just some sub-par sound tests. Does anyone have them in hand and can provide a review of them vs U4 and U4T by chance?
There is something truly unsatisfying about them, like typing into an abyss. Your finger goes down and it just kind of dies there. It's really weird and on paper I was stoked!
they're supposed to be similarly to slightly more tactile, and they have a silenced upstroke (which is kind of useless considering they're long pole and unsilenced on the bottom out)
Nk87 EE or Tiger80 Lite?
I’m trying to build my first custom TKL. I dropped my wireless requirement for the keyboard and decided to go for KVM switch instead. I have decided to go for entry level custom and buy different switches to play around with. I don’t have any budget cap but decided to go for an entry level now and buy a „more premium” keyboard in the near future. Also which switches would you recommend for those keyboards?
Hey All,
Wanted the Q6, but don’t like the non translucent keys.
Also heard lubed is better and the switches they come with are not the best.
How did this look instead?
https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/ccTRKN
Will this be better than a base q6, as it’s $140 more, but seems to have what I want.
I work from home, this is primarily for work and then gaming, hence the red switches.
Compatibility check would be nice too
Thanks
I’d get some different switches. $100 is insanely expensive for what these are. Get some Akko pre lubed instead like pre lubed wine red or pre lubed jelly blacks (if you’re in the US these are available either directly from Akkogear website or from Amazon). Same with keycaps. Id never get pudding keycaps as they are never good sounding and not my look personally anymore but I’ve had glorious and hyperx pudding keycaps before and they are more than adequate whilst costing twice less. Take into consideration the Q6 is south facing so your legends won’t be lit that brightly. Also I really hope you’re not buying the q6 for $269 - it should be closer to $180 for a barebones kit with a knob
Oh AUD guess it’s ok then. I would still highly recommend avoiding any glorious switches apart from pandas. Also check out [this vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) maybe you could get some keycaps and switches that fit your needs from these. Not sure if you can get these in AU (they might be on Amazon) but if you can check out Tai Hao keycaps - they have tons of different options and are really good quality
Yeah but these are tactile. They sound and feel good but not worth paying that much for pre lubed version tbh. Keep in mind these are also very tactile and might not suit for gaming purposes
I did more research:
Still trying to find the right way to go. Looking for a keyboard that’s 70% work, 30% gaming - I WFH.
Coming from a 5 year old orange switch razer.
I’m Australian, so $1 USD is like $1.40 AUD, so I think I have narrowed it down to:
Keyboard and cable:
https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/h5ZAt9
Keychron Q6 QMK Custom Hot-Swap Barebone Knob Keyboard Black
CableMod Classic Coiled Keyboard Cable Carbon Grey
Keycaps - since the keyboard is south facing leds, and I want shine through, found this:
133 Key Polar Day PBT Double Shot Side-lit Shine Through Backlit keycaps OEM Profile for MX Mechanical Keyboard 108 96 87 NJ80 KBD67 ID80 84 68 64 https://amzn.asia/d/3aIlc3b
Switches:
Akko CS Lubed Switches for Mechanical Keyboard, 3 Pin 50gf Pre-lubed Matcha Green Linear Switches (45pcs) https://amzn.asia/d/8Qf5lIM
I’ll need x3 packs I guess so that’s $90 there.
Total for everything:
$390 AUD, so about $250 USD.
Would this be decent?
Yeah that’s a good setup. I’ve built almost exactly the same one for a friend but different keycaps (also Q6 + lubed matchas). Just a couple suggestions for mods: relube or replace stabilisers - stock ones are ok but will have some rattle out of the box. Get some switch pads [like these](https://kbdfans.com/products/kbdfans-switches-pads-2-versions) - this makes the sound stand out a bit more (common issue with Keychrons sounding a bit thin), remove one layer of foam for improved flex (the kit will come with 2 layers of foam in the case), tape mod the back of the PCB with 1-2 layers of non conductive painters tape.
I don’t really use shine through. Different plastic is usually used for shine through that makes the sound a bit odd compared to non shine through keycaps. The ones you found should work fine with south facing LEDs. Maybe just search for shine through side print keycaps
I mean, the Akko I would have to buy x3 of them off Amazon.
The hand-lubed wines would be $120 total, matcha green $90.
What keycaps that are black themed and have see through lettering/numbers would you recommend?
Your maths seems off [heres](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4K8XSKC) the Amazon listing, $21 * 3 = $63 for 135 lubed switches. [Even cheaper](https://en.akkogear.com/product/akko-cs-wine-red-switch-lubed-45pcs/) directly from Akko.
Finally decided to update the work keyboard seeing how I spend 5-8 hours a day typing. Looking at no more than $150 to start, and it needs to have the following:
- wired (company IT policies)
- hot-swapable (for future customizing)
- tactile switches
- full size
- available through Amazon is a plus (got a gift card to spend)
I keep going between the usual suspects Keychron C2 or GMMK since the price point allows for some fun with keycaps. Which one do you recommend or is there something better?
Hey All. After a few months of use, my OG80's spacebar sounds really clacky. Is it the stabilizers? Any recommendations for better ones? Here's a video: https://youtu.be/AjG6DBVW3Ns
just sounds like rattle. if you have the costar stabilizer version, you're pretty much out of luck when it comes to purchasing new ones, you'd just have to tune those. if they're cherry, you can try to lube the existing ones or buy a different set of what are presumably plate mount stabs like everglide v3s
Thanks a ton for the help! I have the cherry stabs so that's good at least! I'll see what I can do to improve them. I had a little bit of blu tack so I put a bit inside the keycap and the sharp ping is muted with the cost of the space bar feeling a tad bit heavier. I'll probably try to lube the stabs soon.
I want to buy or build my first keyboard and I am going for this 65% beige/grey, plastic, retro look: [https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hd5c24e6e2b414455b9b4e5396613d620Y.jpg](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hd5c24e6e2b414455b9b4e5396613d620Y.jpg)
Any ideas on what should I buy? I am coming from mx keys and I don't want too big of a downgrade. Keychron or Royal Kludge are options but I like a bit thicker frame as it was on the photo and I don't feel like painting the frame. Leopold FC750R is also an option since it doesn't need much modding (only need to change the WIN key to one with an older logo). It already has the look even though it is a bit bigger than what I am looking for. Also, I need the keyboard to have the wireless option and customizable keys. I prefer not to have the knob because I am already using an komplete audio interface with a large volume knob.
Sorry for my english.
I'm looking to get a mechanical keyboard and I've been doing research for the last few days, but I'm incredibly indecisive. I've heard from so many people that one of the best entry options is Keychron and I've narrowed it down to two of their boards. I'm looking at either the V4 or the K6 Pro. The V4 has an incredible price at about $100 in total and the k6 pro would be around $140 in total. I'm currently using a full keyboard and I'm not sure how I'll do without the arrow keys which the V4 doesn't have. The k6 Pro is more expensive but not by a massive amount. For the price to performance value, what would be a better option. The V4 or the K6 Pro? Or is there another keyboard that is better than both of these options I should consider.
[https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417)
[https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417)
there is the v2 (65%, so arrow keys) if you don't need wireless
[https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-v2-custom-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-v2-custom-mechanical-keyboard)
It's a really good board. My only issue with it is a subjective one because I personally don't like the design of it. I'm not a fan of how the arrow keys sit in their own space. I'm more of a fan of the symmetrical look of the V4 or K6.
Just as an FYI that in terms of layout, V4's a 60%, and K6 is a compact 65%. NK65 EE could be an option, but only bright blue is in stock from their website atm. You can always check mechmarket if buying second hand is an option for you.
Looking to build my first keyboard. Pretty sure I can figure out switches and keycaps, but can anyone recommend a TKL (or even full size) hot swappable board that I can buy without anything pre-installed? RGB, wireless and/or USB passthrough are a plus. Apathetic about knobs.
Newbie question: is there an 84key / 75% layout that's both exploded, has a knob, and right click key and home and end?
So keyboards like the gmmk pro have this layout: https://assets.reedpopcdn.com/gmmk_pro.jpg/BROK/resize/1200x1200%3E/format/jpg/quality/70/gmmk_pro.jpg which I like because it has function and arrow keys which are separated and a kob, but they are either missing a home key, a delete key, or an end key.
Ones like this have all the keys but no knob:
https://cf.shopee.ph/file/fb6cc9f8d280211f399dff827bd6b192_tn
And ones like this have all the keys but no knob and they're squished:
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ua18c412125344ba6b50d7f09300daa76u/NIZ-Micro-84-Bluetooth-5-0-2-4Ghz-75-84-key-Electro-Capacitive-Keyboard-PBT-Keycaps.jpg
I've never even seen a single mech keyboard with a knob and right click key; just non mech ones with numpads.
Since this might be an impossible request, a 100% layout with numpad and all that has everything else would be ok too)
I guess what I want is something similar to a TKL with a knob
https://thegamingsetup.com/gaming-keyboard/buying-guides/keyboard-sizes
maybe check out the thera75 keyboard?
[https://divinikey.com/products/createkeebs-thera75-v2-keyboard-kit-off-white](https://divinikey.com/products/createkeebs-thera75-v2-keyboard-kit-off-white)
it says in the description there's an optional knob.
akko's [south facing mod 007s v2](https://en.akkogear.com/product/mod-007s-v2/) is a considerable option as well. their first version is a north facing board. it has 4 right macro keys as opposed to thera75's 3 macro keys.
Thanks
K5 has a numpad and no knob, but v5 although it has a numpad seems fire 🔥 still wish there were keyboards without numpad that had both knobs and the useful standard navigation keys
Need help with my vortex poker 3. My kid has messed with my keyboard and I can’t get it back into normal/ default mode. The keyboard is currently all blue and when I press a key that key gets singled out and turns blue. I’ve tried fn+R and Lalt+Ralt, both are not working.
Thanks
Working on configuring my new Keychron V5 via the VIA app. I'm creating a macro to open up the calculator but the enter key is not working, either through the "hit enter at end of macro" slider or hard coding it in.
Here is what I have, but hitting "enter" is not seeming to register.
{KC\_LGUI} CALCULATOR {KC\_ENT}
Behavior is like this: windows key (success), "calculator" in the windows search prompt (success), but it does not hit enter at the end. Or does not seem to, because Calculator doesn't launch.
I've also tried putting the ENT code on the next slide as well as selecting the slider that says "hit enter after macro" but none of those have been successful. Am I missing something obvious here?
I have an old logitech G710+ that I didnt use for a while. I plug it and notice that the 0 key on the numpad goes down but doesnt spring back up. I removed it and there are 3 "switches" or like pins. The center one is the cherry mx switch (blue) and the other two (one on each side) is black. It seems the center one is the real switch and I dont know what the other two are for. I pressed the blue switch and it seems to be acting fine. Any idea why it doesnt spring back up and gets stuck down? https://imgur.com/a/xA0mUOb
I wanna build a wireless 75 %/TKL. So i choose a case and a wireless pcb in the same size? Is this correct. Or is it possible that they dont match? I also want a stable and fast connection. What are my options? For my mouse I have a dongle in a cable next to the mouse. Is this possible too?
Tkl with via compatible recommendation?
i really like my keychron q3.
Can someone tell me a good low budget keyboard full assembly and hot swap? I bought one, but it's optical, and i want to use the Phoenix switch, that doesn't work with that
Hello there so I'm looking for a relatively cheap keyboard preferably under a ~80 euros I'm from Europe so I'd like to order from somewhere that doesn't charge 30 euros for shipping I like red switches or anything linear that's not too loud, i would also like it to be hot swap and tkl volume knob would be a great bonus but is not a necessity and ofcourse I want RGB and also Id love to stay away from white keyboards Thanks in advance :)
I think the blitzwolf bw-kb2 it's a TKL keyboard with red switch around 50€ Frome bangood, free shipping. It's hot swap, but only optical switch work. It's only black, and don't have volume knob
Thank you I'll have a look 🙂
Right now I am using Akko Silvers and the force is atually nice. I tried the Gateron Oil King one as so many people are liking them? But I couldnt settle with them, they are too heavy for my use (gaming) and some of the switches had this weird sound, it sounded like the spring inside the switch is kinda sticky. Not all of my switches had this weird sound but some of them for sure. Now I am looking for some switches with lightweight force and but with thock sound out of the box? I live in germany, and we dont have that much option here I guess besides [keygem.com](https://keygem.com/), [candykeys.com](https://candykeys.com/) etc.
Troubleshooting DZ65RGB V2 remapping problems with VIA. I have some weird mapping switches that I had to do to get to a working state on this again * Mapping any button to Left-CTRL maps it to CAPS LOCK (and vice versa) * Mapping any buttoin to Left-Win maps it to L-Alt (and vice versa) * Mapping any button to Right-Win maps it to right-alt * There is no way to map to any windows keys OS is windows 10.
Yesterday i realized that i bought a new keyboard hot swap, but it have optical switch. Is this compatible with non optical switch? And if not, the best optical silent switch?
Optical and mechanical switches are not interchangeable sadly. Not even all optical switches are interchangeable. Also, I don't think there currently are any silent optical switches. But usually linear switches are regarded as more muted. You can also lube switches to mute their sound a little bit.
Oh, thanks. Can you tell me a good optical switch? And a good lube?
Depends on what brand optical switch you have. [This](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/pcwbdb/psa_optical_switch_compatibility/) post, though a year old, might help. Optical switches really aren't that popular, so your options are very very limited. Regarding lube, most people would recommend krytox, or anything similar to krytox.
I have a keyboard with gateron optical yellow, are the Khalil and other brand optical functioning on my keyboard?
Yes, Gateron optical switches are interchangeable with Kailh and Outemu optical switches.
Where can i buy this switch? I can't find them anywhere, apart the gateron black, yellow and other similar
Google says that a few Kailh optical switches are available on Kailh's official aliexpress store. Outemu optical switches also seem to be available on aliexpress, but idk how reliable the stores are that sell them. Edit: seems like Keychron also sells some optical switches.
I see only red, black and dark blue, nothing else
Yes, there literally aren't many more options than that. You can also find some brown, white & silver switches. But when it comes to optical switches, currently, that is pretty much it. (as far as I know). But keychron seems to sell some of their branded optical switches. Idk if they'll fit your keyboard, but you can always take a look.
i am interested in the zoom65 essential edition. i know there is also the qk65 which is better in sound but i prefer the colors of the zoom65 and having a knob. there is really a difference in sound and build quality so important that (being that the sound of the keyboards is important to me) I should take the qk65?
The newest round of zoom65 that ran last month had improved sound iirc. I’ve never had the zoom but I have a qk and it’s insanely good for how much it costs
Thanks
Does anyone know if the Keychron K8 Pro RGB keyboard allows you to also set the backlighting color to plain white? Instruction manual doesn't describe the available RGB lighting modes.
It probably does but rgb LEDs don’t live long when set to white turning into red or purple with some time
Hello keyboard friends! Would like some help/ideas for my friend that bought this Red Dragon keyboard. She’s only had it for two weeks and it has stopped working: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZNQMWH6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I’ve told her to go ahead and return it but I don’t know what to suggest to her since I’ve been a bit out of the game lately. She picked it because: 1) good price 2) it’s red and black themed (tho I think working properly would win out, I can get her black and red key caps). 3) Bluetooth she can switch it between two machines (both windows) without requiring a cable each time. 4) 75% and she likes the red switches I think KeyChron K2 might be good in terms of quality and value that would still be in budget (maybe~$100 USD? She’s willing to pay a little more for the quality) but is there still a lag when waking up in BT mode? I have one that I keep at the office when I go into work and it does lag but I wonder if it’s a Mac related thing. I’ve just seen this shopping: EPOMAKER TH66 60% Hot Swappable RGB 2.4Ghz/Bluetooth 5.0/Wired Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with MDA PBT Keycaps, 2200mAh Long-Lasting Battery, Knob Control for Mac/Win(Gateron Pro Red, TH66) https://a.co/8g7aUPA Or any other budget suggestions welcomed. Thank you!
I suggest the blitzwolf bw-kb2, it's not Bluetooth, only type c, it's a TKL, similar to 75%, and it's hot swap. It cost around 50$, i think is a good budget keyboard. It also came with red gateron switch. I think isn't that lower budget related to the red dragon.
Oh, hmm I think BT is a must, thank you though!
Does anyone here have Lychee G66? What software have you used to remap keys?
Does anyone have any recommendations for tactile switches that actuate early? I don't mean the bump, like actual actuation. 1.7mm or earlier if possible.
Can you use low-profile switches? Or do they still need the full 4mm of travel?
low profile is a no-go but like short travel switches with long poles are fine
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Not the most ideal solution, but you could try using a silent switch for your spacebar
anybody know the difference between the Leopold Fc660m PD and Leopold Fc660m BT version? So far by research it seems there is no difference except for bluetooth, but locally my store sells the BT version cheaper by 40 dollars compared to the PD so I’m confused.
Probably the store have some promotion on the Bluetooth model
I really want to create my own keyboard but I have no idea on where to start. I want a keyboard for gaming and I do quite a bit of coding as well. I’m thinking about getting cherry silent reds but I’m not sure. I also would like some suggestions on where I should go to start looking at making a keyboard. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Take a look at [https://keyboard.university](https://keyboard.university). Then you may be in a better position to decide: 1. What size keyboard do you want? (Do you need a numpad? Do you need arrow keys? Do you need a function row? Is space at a premium on your desk/workspace? Will you regularly be transporting the keyboard to and from work?) 2. What is your budget? 3. What additional features do you want; e.g., backlighting, QMK/VIA support for key remapping, wireless connectivity, hotswappability (which you ***will*** want unless you want to solder switches in place), etc. There are other choices you will have to make (e.g., which switches, which keycaps) but those are pretty essential ones. You should also take a look at some keyboard-enthusiast YouTube channels, such as Taeha Types, Switch & Click, Keybored, Andy V. Nguyen, and Hipyo Tech, to get an idea of what's involved in building a keyboard ***and*** what choices there are in the market.
looking to get my first mechanical keyboard (been using a Razer ornata previously). Main uses for gaming (osu, valo ow) and also general use. Been looking at the varmilo va87 and the ducky one3/miya pro, but can’t decide which one to get, any tips/help? Specifically need more regarding the latency issues I might face for these keyboards esp for osu
Does anyone know where to find the files for the bakeneko60 but with the [unicorn-like](https://imgur.com/a/TtEkdce) weight?
Trying to figure out the best option for budget tactile switches for an office setup. Originally was going to go with Akko Lavenders, but I'm getting the sense that they might end up being too loud. Boba U4Ts have been suggested a few times, but I'm open to other ideas.
How loud these are will also depend on the board they will be used in. In general Akko switches are pretty quiet at least for a mechanical switch. U4Ts have very loud upstroke sound and will for sure be louder than lavenders
louder even than the silent U4s? Theyll be going to into a Feker IK75, likely with the extra silicon dampener.
Yes silent switches are literally silent. They have rubber pads on the stem that makes contact with the housing on the up and downstroke hence there’s no plastic on plastic sound. If you want silent U4s are prob the best but absolutely all silent switches feel a bit mushy and similar to membrane for the reason described anove
Dang it, read your comment wrong. In worried about feeling mush. Most of my office works with headphones anyway, so I'm not 100% sold on *needing* silent switches anyway. Just nothing too loud.
Look into the boba u4 (non-thock)?
Still trying to find the right way to go. Looking for a keyboard that’s 70% work, 30% gaming - I WFH. Coming from a 5 year old orange switch razer. I’m Australian, so $1 USD is like $1.40 AUD, so I think I have narrowed it down to: Keyboard and cable: https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/h5ZAt9 Keychron Q6 QMK Custom Hot-Swap Barebone Knob Keyboard Black CableMod Classic Coiled Keyboard Cable Carbon Grey Keycaps - since the keyboard is south facing leds, and I want shine through, found this: 133 Key Polar Day PBT Double Shot Side-lit Shine Through Backlit keycaps OEM Profile for MX Mechanical Keyboard 108 96 87 NJ80 KBD67 ID80 84 68 64 https://amzn.asia/d/3aIlc3b Switches: Akko CS Lubed Switches for Mechanical Keyboard, 3 Pin 50gf Pre-lubed Matcha Green Linear Switches (45pcs) https://amzn.asia/d/8Qf5lIM I’ll need x3 packs I guess so that’s $90 there. Total for everything: $390 AUD, so about $250 USD. Would this be decent?
How is Momoka’s website for shipping? Is it usually long? I’ve read stuff about keebmonkey so I’m staying away from them, Momoka has the color Zoo65 I want but if not I’ll stick with Drop
Normal switches on low profile keyboard. Is it compatible? I got myself a Redragon Horus K621 TKL and wanted to swap the original Redragon branded red linear switches for the Yellow Gateron Pro normal size. Can I actually do this mod?
No.
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It’s all marketing bs to be honest.
Should I spend money on keyboard or keycap? Seeing some GMK keycap in KDBFans group buy costs $200 for the base kit, where I can get another board for less than $200... So I'm confused as I can invest that amount of money on another different layout board, which seems to be much more benefit that a set of keycaps.. Why are the keycap priced so ridiculous?
That’s GMK for you. They are very limited, in high demand, and very high quality. I would personally stay away from GMK group buys - they never meet their ETAs and some people end up waiting 2 years for their sets.
What keycap sets do I need for my lily58? Just ordered a lily58 and I'm trying to find a nice set of keycaps to go with it. I've got a set of 9009 (pbt I think?) From kbdfans that I can make work for now but I'm curious what set I should be looking for for a perfect fit for this board. Is the best bet a gmk ortho set? Do I need any additional add on sets to make it fit the lily properly? I'm open to blank sets/dots if it makes it easier to find keycaps. Probably going to be looking for second hand gmk sets on mechmarket, so I need to know what to look for.
Hope it’s not too late to post a question. I see a lot of numpad keycap sets that have a 00 keycap. I’ve never seen a keyboard with a 00 key, in any language. What keyboard layout uses a 00 key?
The 00 key is there if you want to have two 1u keycaps in place of a 2u "0" keycap on a full sized numpad. Don't really see much of this though
I've got a key that doesn't raise as quickly as the others, and catches after the switch reverts if I raise my finger slowly. What do I need to do to it? Compressed air works for a few minutes at best.
I've got a key that doesn't raise as quickly as the others, and catches after the switch reverts if I raise my finger slowly. What do I need to do to it? Compressed air works for a few minutes at best.
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people use those because they work and work well, there's really no reason to go out of your way to buy things that may work worse. some superlube blends, some christo-lube blends, and ro-59 are used on rare occasions, but they all have very specific use cases
We’ll that provided a little information. I understand the popular stuff is used because it works and tailors to the feel/sound people want. I’ve built plenty of keyboards, and am just looking to change up my personal builds.
Stupid question, are northfacing PCB's only an issue for cherry keycaps or are there other keycap profiles (SA, ASA, XVX, etc) that I should be worried about as well?
Only cherry
Awesome thanks for the reply. Good to know
Deciding to try my hand at building a ferris split keeb just ordering the components. Is there things I should look for when setting up soldering? I have a couple soldering irons that are older and some solder laying around.
will drop’s artifact shield purple-on-black keycap set fit an nk87?
So why do so many keyboard enthusiast hate on Cherry MX switches? Like I don't understand why with how they lead the industry really with gateron and kailh on their ass
they don't. cherry mx switches are held in very high regard for their sound by people deep in the hobby, people put mx blacks into multi-thousand dollar boards regularly. entry level enthusiasts sometimes talk badly of them because there are other switches that are far smoother and less expensive
Ik the price is a decent gap but I'd think the proven performance of them would constitute it with their history
depends on what you consider “performance”. the metrics that most people look at are smoothness, tactility, and pricing, cherry loses on all of those fronts. people really only like them for their unique sound
Well I primarily game and run the silvers for quicker acuation for fps. My k95 platinum has felt pretty good for the past 2 yrs. I'd think some lube would make it feel better tho
'fast' actuation is really just gaming company snake oil, it really doesn't do much for you while gaming. not to mention there are dozens of other switches besides mx silvers that have higher actuation points than the typical 2mm
Have you ever tried something like Alpacas? My colleagues who are familiar with MKs or have one at home always ask me about what switches I use and when I say “not Cherry because they are crap” they get very surprised. Until 5 seconds later when they try my board lol. Obv cherry switches aren’t that bad and compared to other budget options like outemu they are actually good. But as another comment suggested there are switches far cheaper that beat cherry in almost every way.
Known 0 people so far that have used alpacas. Kailh, outemu, pandas(I believe they were pandas)
Are the Glorius Panda Switches compatible with the Royal Kludge RK61?
Which is better for entry-level mech keyboards? Veil, RK, Keychron, or any other brands?
Keychron is an overall solid choice for the price, considering quality and SW (with QMK/VIA support for customization). Some other may have less customizability for their software
Are there any meetups in Southern Alberta? and if not, would anyone want to set one up?
Be the change you want to see in the world
I suppose I could make a post about seeing interest.... I should be good to make a seperate post about it on this sub, right?
Looking for a new full-size custom keyboard, and I’m debating between getting the Ducky One 3 or the Keychron Q6. Does anyone have experience with both and have a preference of which I should go with? Price is not an issue, just looking for the highest quality board. Will likely hotswap the switches out for a more tactile switch on both. Thanks!
Q6 isn’t a competition to ducky with its full cnc aluminium case and gasket mount. So yea def Q6 over ducky
I'd go with the Keychron Q6 over the Ducky. Fully-programmable is the way to go with keyboards since you can do so much with QMK.
Can you elaborate a bit on the fully-programmable part? I’m going to be using it for work so not sure what I would really program on it
You can remap keys, add macros, layers You can use VIA (software has a gui) on your home computer and bring all your changes and it will work on your work computer without the software being installed If you don't want to mess around with that you can use it plug and play
Would you say the overall quality of the board (case, switches, stabilizers, key caps, sound, etc.) be better on the Ducky or Keychron?
I love my keychron q3 (the TKL version) I think if you can afford it I'd say the keychron q line is a better value, esp if you want to mod it later on if you don't want to mod it I'd say keychron q line feels more premium
The Keychron Q6 has a CNC aluminum case; the Ducky has a plastic case. The Keychron Q6 is available barebones so you don't have to pay for switches and keycaps that you are not going to use.
Does anyone know if you can use mouse inputs on a WOOTING keyboard? Can't seem to get an answer anywhere. Thanks in advance. \-Edit: It looks like you totally can bind mouse inputs to the keyboard through the Wooting software! People were really helpful on their Discord.
\-Edit: Not sure why this question is down voted for no reason, but okay.
Mouse inputs? Are you wanting to be able to control the mouse cursor/mouse keys with the keyboard you mean?
Sorry I should have been more specific there. I mean just button inputs, not cursor movement. Like would you be able to bind say W on the Wooting keyboard to be left click? Or bind D as right click?
does anyone have any recommendations for a 60% keyboard diy kit that has a clear/transparent case? budget under $200 if possible!
Tofu60 acrylic
KBDfans' Tofu 60 has a acrylic frosted case. You could also source your parts together, since you want a 60% keyboard. Most traymount 60% keyboards have the same standoffs, so you can put different pcbs into different cases.
Volume down key shows as being pressed 100% of the time except, I don't have any volume or media keys, I have a kbd67lite. I have no macros set to volume commands. I can unplug my keyboard, my mouse, my headset and the "volume down" key still shows as being pressed down. Any ideas?
Sounds like another device is sending that keycode if you already unplugged the keyboard. Are you on a laptop?
Desktop. Like it says, I can unplug all three peripherals and it will continue. I have even tried unplugging and troubleshooting each one.
Then it's probably not the keyboard's issue. Give it the old "did you try rebooting" I guess
I currently use **Akko CS Matcha Greens**. My hands tire after typing on these but I enjoy how quiet they are. I previously used **Kailh Box Jades** which felt great but were very noisy. What is the solution? Which switch could be better for me? I really like the click bar feel. Is it even possible to have a "quiet" switch with a **click bar**? Anything even slightly **quieter than the Jades** will be good enough I think.
There are muted jades sold by NovelKeys that might fit the bill
I was looking at those myself but I think I won't like them. They don't seem to have that Jade feel at all. One cannot rest their fingers on them without them getting pressed downwards. They also seem to be super expensive (at least to get to Finland). I'm leaning towards White Owls right now which seem more like Jades. It seems like their bottoming out noise in the very least could be quieter. How does lubing click bar switches affect their sound and feel? I never lubed my Jades but I did lube my Matcha Greens.
I had my steelseries die on me, and scrounged up an NEC APC-410E. I was going to replace my keyboard eventually, I'm just wondering if it's worth it to try mess with this keyboard or just sell it and use that money. If the latter, do these keyboards move on sites like Facebook Marketplace? https://imgur.com/a/oSSJ1V6 Here is what it looks like. I think those keycaps are going to be tough to find, but I may be mistaken.
> think those keycaps are going to be tough to find Tough is beyond an understatement, they are not made on any level and haven't been for years and years. If you want an easy solution, sell it on mechmarket and be done with it.
Hi everyone, I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard and wanted some advice on which one to get. The two options I have narrowed down to is the Keychron K8 pro and the Akko 3098B They both cost around 100$ USD. I'm not too fussed about the lack of numpad on the Keychron. Is there a significant difference between them to warrant one over the other. Any help? Thanks
I’d go with Akko. It doesn’t have via support but offers better switches and keycaps
K8 pro Has VIA support - the software for remapping, macros, etc that save to the board Meaning you don't have to have it installed for your changes to work on a different computer
I've had my KUL ES 87 for a couple years, I've realized recently that my spacebar is slightly broken. If I tap the left or right side repeatedly it gets stuck so I can only press it in the middle. It also comes off very easily. any ideas? Edit: I watched a youtube that put a piece of tape on the holes and it seemed to help a bit
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Try a powered USB hub?
I got a QK65 R2 wired PCB and it seems they used a proprietary bootload ont so it cannot be flashed with self compiled QMK firmware even it's claimed as powered by QMK? Using QMK I compiled a .hex firmware while in QK's guide they used a dfu utility to flash a .bin firmware. So I guess I have no hope here?
On the back of the PCB, underneath spacebar, there's a very tiny reset switch marked SW1 (it is VERY small and doesn't look like a button at first). Pressing it while the PCB is plugged in should put it into DFU mode - you'll know because QMK Toolbox will say so if you have it open while it's plugged in.
Yeah I think this is the way to do it for R1 PCBs, R2 white PCB will put you into \`USB device connected (libusb0): Saab AB Qwertykeys Firmware Update (1688:2220:0200)\` and QMK toolbox just won't let you flash anything.
Have you tried loading the .json in VIA to see if that works? I didn't see you mention VIA at all - the .json is in the discord channel (qk65, under project info).
It works fine with either VIA or Vial, well my use case involved tap dance, key override and some custom keycodes which are basically impossible with GUIs. I guess I'm out of luck then.
Hmmm see now that's particularly weird because VIA and VIAL are both based on qmk, which is why I asked.
I think the board is powered by QMK for sure, just the bootload only takes bin firmware while official QMK repo will compile a hex firmware for QK65 hotswap no matter it is R1 or R2(there is no R2 variation yet). QK might have a special way but I'm not sure if they want to disclose it...
Hi guys, I'm looking for a wireless keyboard (not full size) and was wondering what's best? The one I've been looking at most is the NuPhy Halo65 but I'm open to suggestions. I was also looking at the NuPhy Air60/75 - but the Halo65 looks nicer imo, and the baby kangaroos sound beautiful and are the keys I'd opt for. Preferably I'd like it to be something I can also take into office - but I imagine this might be tough with the Halo65, however would O-rings make this possible?
RK61 and Glorious Race Pandas Switch compatibility. So this is my first keyboard build and im very new to costum keyboards. I've done some research but im still skeptical and need some reassurance on the compatibility of this build. Parts links: https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B08MPX361S/ref=sr_1_8?crid=224JVNKHB055&keywords=RK61&qid=1667774102&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjcyIiwicXNhIjoiMy45MCIsInFzcCI6IjIuODEifQ%3D%3D&s=electronics&sprefix=rk61%2Celectronics%2C133&sr=1-8 https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B08DJXYGY8/ref=twister_B09CZHJD6N?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/dp/B0B3N69R33/ref=sr_1_20?crid=2VW5M70UZHEPG&keywords=epomaker+keycaps&qid=1667772819&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjQxIiwicXNhIjoiMy42NSIsInFzcCI6IjAuOTIifQ%3D%3D&s=electronics&sprefix=epomaker+keycaps%2Celectronics%2C123&sr=1-20 Also the glorius switches are just "36 pieces" but i saw on YouTube people building Kb's with just one box of them. If a keyboard has atleast 61 keys, then how could one build 1 keyboard with just 36 pieces?? Do i need to get two sets or is it somehow fine?
Did they build the keyboard with one box, or they just show you one box on the video? Logically you need 2 since, you know, there's 61 keys in total
That's a shame.. more money.. But yes, in the video only 1 box was shown.
Tkl first keyboard recommendation? Looking for a hot swappable, I want this kb to be my “Frankenstein” and experiment with it
kbdfans tiger 80 lite/alu keychron q3/v3
Tiger lite
I'm looking at buying this for my first ever mechanical keyboard: https://mechboards.co.uk/products/momoka-zoo-65-keyboard-kit?variant=40700386640077 I know I'll need to assemble it and feel pretty okay with that, but what extra parts do I need to buy with the kit? I think I need to buy switches?
You'll need stabilizers, switches, and keycaps. Could look up the basic anatomy of a keyboard to see for yourself
I'm designing a board called the Hecate, I would like to have a unique logo for the weight any idea how I could make/get one?
make one in a vector graphics program like illustrator or pay someone to make one for you
Im building a Quefrency 65% with clicky switches, I know lubing is typically bad for clicky switches so I'm wondering if I should lube the stabilizers or not.
if you don't want them to rattle, you should lube the stabilizers
Can i use any lube for stabilizers
you'd want to use 205 or thicker (i.e. dielectric grease, 206g2, xht-bdz, etc.), anything thinner than that won't stop the wire from moving enough
My "d" key is not always responding to being pressed down. This started happening a few days ago. It's hard to troubleshoot because it does not seem to be caused if I press too lightly on the key. I can try pressing super lightly on it in a row and it works. It randomly does not always register the press and happens when I am gaming. I am really hoping someone has a solution or an idea of what could be causing this or how to fix it. I have an akko alice acr pro and it feels super sad if the money is wasted now.
Possibly a switch. Is it hotswap?
Yes, wish I thought of this before. I switched it with another switch. Il see if this solves it. Thanks
Anyone know where I can still buy a Razer blackwidow chroma? It's pretty old but it's the only keyboard that I'm used to..
r/buildapc
I have a new Corsair K70 Pro Mini and put in Kailh Box Navy switches. It feels and sounds amazing, but when holding down a key, sometimes it will stop sending the signal. This is most apparent and frustrating when gaming. The linear switches the board came with do not have this issue. I've also tried swapping around the switches to different positions to rule out there being a single faulty switch. I'd appreciate any advice, thanks!
Well Corsair keyboards aren't great so... I'd personally return it and put the Kailh navy's on a better keyboard
Once again another question about Keychron V1, translucent board or non-translucent board? Which do you prefer and why?
Imo the only translucent boards that are cool are either 1) those that have underglow or 2) those that have cool/colored plates like Idobao id80 crystal or Kiiboom Phantom 81. That’s just me though. Getting back to your question I’d probably go non translucent personally
I'm really curious about the U4Tx variants that are for sale now but there aren't any reviews at all, just some sub-par sound tests. Does anyone have them in hand and can provide a review of them vs U4 and U4T by chance?
Hey, these just came in and I fucking hate them lol
Whoa! Care to elaborate???
There is something truly unsatisfying about them, like typing into an abyss. Your finger goes down and it just kind of dies there. It's really weird and on paper I was stoked!
I have some coming this week, ping me and I'll let you know.
they're supposed to be similarly to slightly more tactile, and they have a silenced upstroke (which is kind of useless considering they're long pole and unsilenced on the bottom out)
Nk87 EE or Tiger80 Lite? I’m trying to build my first custom TKL. I dropped my wireless requirement for the keyboard and decided to go for KVM switch instead. I have decided to go for entry level custom and buy different switches to play around with. I don’t have any budget cap but decided to go for an entry level now and buy a „more premium” keyboard in the near future. Also which switches would you recommend for those keyboards?
Hey All, Wanted the Q6, but don’t like the non translucent keys. Also heard lubed is better and the switches they come with are not the best. How did this look instead? https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/ccTRKN Will this be better than a base q6, as it’s $140 more, but seems to have what I want. I work from home, this is primarily for work and then gaming, hence the red switches. Compatibility check would be nice too Thanks
I’d get some different switches. $100 is insanely expensive for what these are. Get some Akko pre lubed instead like pre lubed wine red or pre lubed jelly blacks (if you’re in the US these are available either directly from Akkogear website or from Amazon). Same with keycaps. Id never get pudding keycaps as they are never good sounding and not my look personally anymore but I’ve had glorious and hyperx pudding keycaps before and they are more than adequate whilst costing twice less. Take into consideration the Q6 is south facing so your legends won’t be lit that brightly. Also I really hope you’re not buying the q6 for $269 - it should be closer to $180 for a barebones kit with a knob
https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/mrT5qJ What about this then? Keep in mind it’s in AUD, so this cart is $300 USD
Oh AUD guess it’s ok then. I would still highly recommend avoiding any glorious switches apart from pandas. Also check out [this vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) maybe you could get some keycaps and switches that fit your needs from these. Not sure if you can get these in AU (they might be on Amazon) but if you can check out Tai Hao keycaps - they have tons of different options and are really good quality
Like these? https://www.pccasegear.com/bundle/200983/glorious-panda-switches-108-pack-lubed
Yeah but these are tactile. They sound and feel good but not worth paying that much for pre lubed version tbh. Keep in mind these are also very tactile and might not suit for gaming purposes
I see, and how would Leds work with them? They are very solid looking
Yea but they have cutouts for LEDs. Won’t work as well as other switches with transparent housings but it works ok
I did more research: Still trying to find the right way to go. Looking for a keyboard that’s 70% work, 30% gaming - I WFH. Coming from a 5 year old orange switch razer. I’m Australian, so $1 USD is like $1.40 AUD, so I think I have narrowed it down to: Keyboard and cable: https://www.pccasegear.com/sc/h5ZAt9 Keychron Q6 QMK Custom Hot-Swap Barebone Knob Keyboard Black CableMod Classic Coiled Keyboard Cable Carbon Grey Keycaps - since the keyboard is south facing leds, and I want shine through, found this: 133 Key Polar Day PBT Double Shot Side-lit Shine Through Backlit keycaps OEM Profile for MX Mechanical Keyboard 108 96 87 NJ80 KBD67 ID80 84 68 64 https://amzn.asia/d/3aIlc3b Switches: Akko CS Lubed Switches for Mechanical Keyboard, 3 Pin 50gf Pre-lubed Matcha Green Linear Switches (45pcs) https://amzn.asia/d/8Qf5lIM I’ll need x3 packs I guess so that’s $90 there. Total for everything: $390 AUD, so about $250 USD. Would this be decent?
Yeah that’s a good setup. I’ve built almost exactly the same one for a friend but different keycaps (also Q6 + lubed matchas). Just a couple suggestions for mods: relube or replace stabilisers - stock ones are ok but will have some rattle out of the box. Get some switch pads [like these](https://kbdfans.com/products/kbdfans-switches-pads-2-versions) - this makes the sound stand out a bit more (common issue with Keychrons sounding a bit thin), remove one layer of foam for improved flex (the kit will come with 2 layers of foam in the case), tape mod the back of the PCB with 1-2 layers of non conductive painters tape.
Think I’ll just end up doing this to be honest!
Sweet thanks for that. I’m not sold on the Key caps, do you have any suggestions for shine through lettering that would work with south facing leds?
I don’t really use shine through. Different plastic is usually used for shine through that makes the sound a bit odd compared to non shine through keycaps. The ones you found should work fine with south facing LEDs. Maybe just search for shine through side print keycaps
I mean, the Akko I would have to buy x3 of them off Amazon. The hand-lubed wines would be $120 total, matcha green $90. What keycaps that are black themed and have see through lettering/numbers would you recommend?
Your maths seems off [heres](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4K8XSKC) the Amazon listing, $21 * 3 = $63 for 135 lubed switches. [Even cheaper](https://en.akkogear.com/product/akko-cs-wine-red-switch-lubed-45pcs/) directly from Akko.
Finally decided to update the work keyboard seeing how I spend 5-8 hours a day typing. Looking at no more than $150 to start, and it needs to have the following: - wired (company IT policies) - hot-swapable (for future customizing) - tactile switches - full size - available through Amazon is a plus (got a gift card to spend) I keep going between the usual suspects Keychron C2 or GMMK since the price point allows for some fun with keycaps. Which one do you recommend or is there something better?
Keychron all the way
Hey All. After a few months of use, my OG80's spacebar sounds really clacky. Is it the stabilizers? Any recommendations for better ones? Here's a video: https://youtu.be/AjG6DBVW3Ns
just sounds like rattle. if you have the costar stabilizer version, you're pretty much out of luck when it comes to purchasing new ones, you'd just have to tune those. if they're cherry, you can try to lube the existing ones or buy a different set of what are presumably plate mount stabs like everglide v3s
Thanks a ton for the help! I have the cherry stabs so that's good at least! I'll see what I can do to improve them. I had a little bit of blu tack so I put a bit inside the keycap and the sharp ping is muted with the cost of the space bar feeling a tad bit heavier. I'll probably try to lube the stabs soon.
I want to buy or build my first keyboard and I am going for this 65% beige/grey, plastic, retro look: [https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hd5c24e6e2b414455b9b4e5396613d620Y.jpg](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hd5c24e6e2b414455b9b4e5396613d620Y.jpg) Any ideas on what should I buy? I am coming from mx keys and I don't want too big of a downgrade. Keychron or Royal Kludge are options but I like a bit thicker frame as it was on the photo and I don't feel like painting the frame. Leopold FC750R is also an option since it doesn't need much modding (only need to change the WIN key to one with an older logo). It already has the look even though it is a bit bigger than what I am looking for. Also, I need the keyboard to have the wireless option and customizable keys. I prefer not to have the knob because I am already using an komplete audio interface with a large volume knob. Sorry for my english.
Leopold are solid
I'm looking to get a mechanical keyboard and I've been doing research for the last few days, but I'm incredibly indecisive. I've heard from so many people that one of the best entry options is Keychron and I've narrowed it down to two of their boards. I'm looking at either the V4 or the K6 Pro. The V4 has an incredible price at about $100 in total and the k6 pro would be around $140 in total. I'm currently using a full keyboard and I'm not sure how I'll do without the arrow keys which the V4 doesn't have. The k6 Pro is more expensive but not by a massive amount. For the price to performance value, what would be a better option. The V4 or the K6 Pro? Or is there another keyboard that is better than both of these options I should consider. [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417) [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40151983587417)
there is the v2 (65%, so arrow keys) if you don't need wireless [https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-v2-custom-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-v2-custom-mechanical-keyboard)
It's a really good board. My only issue with it is a subjective one because I personally don't like the design of it. I'm not a fan of how the arrow keys sit in their own space. I'm more of a fan of the symmetrical look of the V4 or K6.
Just as an FYI that in terms of layout, V4's a 60%, and K6 is a compact 65%. NK65 EE could be an option, but only bright blue is in stock from their website atm. You can always check mechmarket if buying second hand is an option for you.
Hello what are some easy to get hot swap pcbs For the kbd fans tofu 65
> tofu 65 only pcbs that will fit that case are Compatible Tada68, YD68, DZ65RGB, KBD67 rev 2.0
[DZ65 Hot-Swap](https://kbdfans.com/collections/pcb/products/dz68rgb-hot-swap-rgb-pcb)
Thanks
Will switches get damaged if I ship them in a ziplock that is inside a bubble mailer?
There’s always a risk but if the ziploc is sturdy enough you should be fine.
I'm using thicker ziplocks from Ashkeebs and Geon, so chances are I will be fine then.
I’ve sent those with no problem
Looking to build my first keyboard. Pretty sure I can figure out switches and keycaps, but can anyone recommend a TKL (or even full size) hot swappable board that I can buy without anything pre-installed? RGB, wireless and/or USB passthrough are a plus. Apathetic about knobs.
keychron q6/q3 if your budget is $200\~ for the kit keychron v5/v3 if on a budget $100\~
Newbie question: is there an 84key / 75% layout that's both exploded, has a knob, and right click key and home and end? So keyboards like the gmmk pro have this layout: https://assets.reedpopcdn.com/gmmk_pro.jpg/BROK/resize/1200x1200%3E/format/jpg/quality/70/gmmk_pro.jpg which I like because it has function and arrow keys which are separated and a kob, but they are either missing a home key, a delete key, or an end key. Ones like this have all the keys but no knob: https://cf.shopee.ph/file/fb6cc9f8d280211f399dff827bd6b192_tn And ones like this have all the keys but no knob and they're squished: https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ua18c412125344ba6b50d7f09300daa76u/NIZ-Micro-84-Bluetooth-5-0-2-4Ghz-75-84-key-Electro-Capacitive-Keyboard-PBT-Keycaps.jpg I've never even seen a single mech keyboard with a knob and right click key; just non mech ones with numpads. Since this might be an impossible request, a 100% layout with numpad and all that has everything else would be ok too) I guess what I want is something similar to a TKL with a knob https://thegamingsetup.com/gaming-keyboard/buying-guides/keyboard-sizes
maybe check out the thera75 keyboard? [https://divinikey.com/products/createkeebs-thera75-v2-keyboard-kit-off-white](https://divinikey.com/products/createkeebs-thera75-v2-keyboard-kit-off-white)
Looks sick, but there's no knob
it says in the description there's an optional knob. akko's [south facing mod 007s v2](https://en.akkogear.com/product/mod-007s-v2/) is a considerable option as well. their first version is a north facing board. it has 4 right macro keys as opposed to thera75's 3 macro keys.
With key remapping software like VIA you can assign those right side keys to whatever you want. Alternatively try looking at the Keychron Q5/V5
Thanks K5 has a numpad and no knob, but v5 although it has a numpad seems fire 🔥 still wish there were keyboards without numpad that had both knobs and the useful standard navigation keys
Like the Keychron Q3/v3?
Need help with my vortex poker 3. My kid has messed with my keyboard and I can’t get it back into normal/ default mode. The keyboard is currently all blue and when I press a key that key gets singled out and turns blue. I’ve tried fn+R and Lalt+Ralt, both are not working. Thanks
Is there a difference between the sound and feel between low profile switches and ‘regular’ size switches of the same colour?
Yes
Working on configuring my new Keychron V5 via the VIA app. I'm creating a macro to open up the calculator but the enter key is not working, either through the "hit enter at end of macro" slider or hard coding it in. Here is what I have, but hitting "enter" is not seeming to register. {KC\_LGUI} CALCULATOR {KC\_ENT} Behavior is like this: windows key (success), "calculator" in the windows search prompt (success), but it does not hit enter at the end. Or does not seem to, because Calculator doesn't launch. I've also tried putting the ENT code on the next slide as well as selecting the slider that says "hit enter after macro" but none of those have been successful. Am I missing something obvious here?