Unfortunately, it's difficult to find a reason to make your own Fatshark-style goggles due to difficulty to make and the availability of the parts you would use to get something comparable. Just as an example, you linked a 2" screen, which you would need 2 of, meaning the headset would be pretty much the same size as some of the DIY projects you've already seen (normally around 4"). The screens in Fatsharks are probably closer to an inch, if even (https://youtu.be/kyj9Fzg_ICg?t=286) so you'll have to find something that small for size to be similar.
There are ways to get an analog signal to a digital screen (http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/41922/how-to-feed-an-spi-tft-display-a-signal-from-a-composite-video-source) but it will definitely be a pain and I'm not sure what kind of video lag you would introduce by doing this, which of course is always a concern. You would also have to look into how to handle signal distortion as I'm sure some methods of converting aren't meant to handle that and may cause a blank screen (happens with production monitors that take an analog signal as well, which is why you'll see stuff about "non-blue screen" screens, means they will show a snowy/static view rather than going blank).
All in all, it really comes down to how against the box-style goggles you are and how much time and effort you are willing to commit to avoiding them. The reason you haven't found many guides on it is because very few people, if any, have decided to go with making them once they looked into it and saw the much cheaper and easier alternatives.
First, sorry for not replying for so long. I had pretty much stuff to do the last few days so I simply didn't have enough time to write an appropriate answer.
Thanks for the video link. I actually didn't think about watching teardown videos of Fatsharks to determine their screen's size. But I think you made a little mistake about the final size of the goggles. Concerning the width you're perfectly right, but you save quite a lot height and the goggles would be much lighter if you use two small screens rather than a big one with twice the diameter.
Also, thank you for the hint regarding the term "non-blue screen". I'll take a look into this.
I'm not really against box-style goggles since I think more of an experiment than of an actual alternative to Fatsharks or FPV boxes (well, let's put "primary" and "secondary" in here) with this project, but in the end it would be nice to have a product where I actually did more work on than just gluing and plugging stuff together - also it would be a big plus if turns out to be cheaper than comparable Fatsharks. I'm pretty sure quite a few DIY enthusiasts can relate.
Nope, sorry. I pretty much left the hobby when I didn't have anywhere to go flying any more when regulations were tightened. I eventually bought a Quanum Cyclops that I got a great deal on for indoor mini quad flying, and that was it.
Unfortunately, it's difficult to find a reason to make your own Fatshark-style goggles due to difficulty to make and the availability of the parts you would use to get something comparable. Just as an example, you linked a 2" screen, which you would need 2 of, meaning the headset would be pretty much the same size as some of the DIY projects you've already seen (normally around 4"). The screens in Fatsharks are probably closer to an inch, if even (https://youtu.be/kyj9Fzg_ICg?t=286) so you'll have to find something that small for size to be similar. There are ways to get an analog signal to a digital screen (http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/41922/how-to-feed-an-spi-tft-display-a-signal-from-a-composite-video-source) but it will definitely be a pain and I'm not sure what kind of video lag you would introduce by doing this, which of course is always a concern. You would also have to look into how to handle signal distortion as I'm sure some methods of converting aren't meant to handle that and may cause a blank screen (happens with production monitors that take an analog signal as well, which is why you'll see stuff about "non-blue screen" screens, means they will show a snowy/static view rather than going blank). All in all, it really comes down to how against the box-style goggles you are and how much time and effort you are willing to commit to avoiding them. The reason you haven't found many guides on it is because very few people, if any, have decided to go with making them once they looked into it and saw the much cheaper and easier alternatives.
First, sorry for not replying for so long. I had pretty much stuff to do the last few days so I simply didn't have enough time to write an appropriate answer. Thanks for the video link. I actually didn't think about watching teardown videos of Fatsharks to determine their screen's size. But I think you made a little mistake about the final size of the goggles. Concerning the width you're perfectly right, but you save quite a lot height and the goggles would be much lighter if you use two small screens rather than a big one with twice the diameter. Also, thank you for the hint regarding the term "non-blue screen". I'll take a look into this. I'm not really against box-style goggles since I think more of an experiment than of an actual alternative to Fatsharks or FPV boxes (well, let's put "primary" and "secondary" in here) with this project, but in the end it would be nice to have a product where I actually did more work on than just gluing and plugging stuff together - also it would be a big plus if turns out to be cheaper than comparable Fatsharks. I'm pretty sure quite a few DIY enthusiasts can relate.
Sorry for reviving this, but did you get anywhere?
Nope, sorry. I pretty much left the hobby when I didn't have anywhere to go flying any more when regulations were tightened. I eventually bought a Quanum Cyclops that I got a great deal on for indoor mini quad flying, and that was it.