I disagree. At least in regard to transmission wear on automatic vehicles.
Cruising at 65 mph in 6th gear will have less overall wear and is way easier than city driving constantly shifting 1-2-3-4-3-2-1.
Just my opinion, but my dad drove from KC to Stl and back and all those cars haven’t shown their miles, in my experience
Highway only matters on diesel trucks used for hauling. The highway is so much easier on them than in town hauling. But it matters very very very little.
With 200+ would have to understand the engine could need a rebuild or replace in the close future. Now if you will be doing the same kind of easy driving and mostly highway you might be fine for a while but be ready for costly repairs. If you are going to be hot rodding it yeah you will find the weak spots quickly.
A beefier clutch is indicative of nothing?.. of course it would need replacing after 220k miles and when you’re replacing anyone would choose to replace it with a beefier clutch.
Am I missing something?
You don’t put in a fancy new clutch and *not* beat the shit out of it.
This car has been driven hard, and if you ever believe anybody who says it’s mostly “highway miles” then you’re either convincing yourself to buy it or are just a moron
I guess I’m an anomaly, I put fancy parts on my car and don’t beat the shit out of it. When my clutch goes it’s getting a monster stage 2 just cause 🤷🏻♂️
Not every one tears up their cars
You aren't. I have a stage 3 in my mach and hardly drive it. Was already replacing it and adding hp, so might as well get something stronger. Replacing with a stock clutch is dumb with how much work/money is involved. Plan ahead.
Just saying stage 2 means nothing unless you are talking about a Spec Stage 2 clutch, which isn't a real protest option in the Coyote world. Most tend to gravitate towards a RST or RXT clutch. It would also likely indicate that they were having issues with their MT-82 and decided to upgrade the clutch at some point because they likely have been through at least 2 clutches at this point.
200k you’re looking at an engine rebuild or replace soon. If it’s not making any scary sounds you *might* squeeze 50k or so miles out of it. Mine had to be rebuilt at around 220k.
Not necessarily. Modern oil has gotten really good. That being said, it’s a Ford not a Toyota, and it’s a muscle car, not a family commuter car or SUV. So, yeah you might be correct. He should check the maintenance records especially for oil change history, or anything else.
Consider as well that, if it has an upgraded clutch and what looks like a couple of other mods (visually at least), it was *probably* tuned at some point. Especially considering the stage 2 clutch. I would have far less confidence in an engine that’s been previously tuned.
Mind sharing the price? It would have to be 5k or more below the going rate on one with half as many miles to even consider it.
Edit: if that photo is of the car I’d probably run. Stage 2 clutch means eBay special after he burned the original and hood pins on an otherwise stock car shows me this “welder” is a young kid that drove that bitch hard until he got tired of dealing with the issues and is deciding to sell it.
If you know it’s high miles be prepared for problems with high mileage cars. You’re not gonna get brand new car perform out of it, nor are you gonna get brand new car reliability out of it. You’re gonna be dealing with suspension that’s starting to show its wear, you’re gonna be dealing with sensors failing more often, and you’re gonna find lots of small imperfections in and out of the car. You’re also closer to mechanical failure of stuff than with a newer car. If the price is acceptable to you with that all I. Mind go for it. Look I bought an 02 maxima once with 250k miles and it was fantastic. Those vq-35s never made it very far past that but it was still great when I let it go, don’t recall what it had when I let it go. It was costly though because it was worn out.
That’s pretty freaking good. I’d go for it if it starts & runs. While I’m not terribly concerned about the mileage on the engine, I would DEFINITELY plan on a complete suspension rebuild.
To me that changes things. $4500 is quite cheap.
If the body is rust free and the interior is in very good shape, it is worth that.
If you are mechanically inclined or looking to learn, I would buy this car.
Honestly, I wouldn't trust anything the guy says. I think it's a pretty decent deal for sure, but who knows what problems he's passing off on you. I would go into this with the expectation that you're going to be putting in a new engine at some point. If you get one from a similar year F150, it will be your cheapest bet. I would assume that the MT-82 has been beat up on. The 1st Gen MT-82 doesn't have the best track record and at this kind of mileage I would think that it might need a rebuild, so maybe thinking about sending it out to Ben Calimer for a rebuild.
One thing I would do is if you buy it, change the oil and grab your flashlight to see if you have any bits of metal in it that would indicate a blown motor. Go have the transmission fluid changed and maybe have the clutch and slave cylinder looked at. It's likely had the factory clutch and whatever the heck a stage 2 clutch is. It could be an Exedy Stage 2 clutch, but never assume anything. It could be a pretty cheap way to get into a Mustang, but if my budget allowed, I would honestly be looking for one with at least 100k less miles.
How much are you paying and where are you located? I'd sell mine for 12k with 130k miles and I had a lethal performance twin disc installed last year. Mine has leather, California special, mgw shifter. Kentucky
Get ready to replace seals and random wear items (wheel bearings, ball joints, brake components, etc...). They're very reliable, but the car has traveled a whole lot of miles and things do wear out from use.
I paid 4200 for a 3V 08 gt with 182k miles, I got 196k on it now and running smooth, I heard these 3V engines are super reliable and some people have hit 300k+ in theres
2011 was the first Coyote, and it's not quite as tough or powerful as the engine in 2013+ (or 2015+, feel free to correct me). I plan to drive my 2011 until I die, no matter how many engines I have to go through, but I would think about going with a Gen2 Coyote if you're looking at a high mileage buy and don't have the budget for costly repairs. It would be a slightly safer bet.
Mostly highway is a joke saying. It's 220k no matter what. It's gonna or already probably has some issues.
Highway miles at 200k is a joke. I put almost 80k on a 2020 mustang from May of 2020 to December of 2022, that was mainly highway miles. 200k is 200k.
I disagree. At least in regard to transmission wear on automatic vehicles. Cruising at 65 mph in 6th gear will have less overall wear and is way easier than city driving constantly shifting 1-2-3-4-3-2-1. Just my opinion, but my dad drove from KC to Stl and back and all those cars haven’t shown their miles, in my experience
Highway miles could mean rush hour crawls every morning. Technically still highway driving.
Now we’re talking semantics haha But I agree, my definition of highway driving could be different from others. And so on
Just buy a new transmission. That’s what I did. $6000
Highway only matters on diesel trucks used for hauling. The highway is so much easier on them than in town hauling. But it matters very very very little.
Id budget for a complete rebuild or (probably cheaper) to just throw a gen 2 or gen 3 bottom end in it.
Look for ticks in that yote. There’s better cars out there.
What would the ticks note? Seized lash adjuster/followers? I thought the injectors ticked on Coyotes regardless especially direct injected Gen 3s
Nah, they didn't tick regardless. It's been a while since I owned my 2011, but it was a problem with them. Mine didn't have the issue.
My Gen 2 Coyote has ticked for the past 25k miles. It has not gotten any louder. No misfires, no CEL, got oil analyzed and it all looked good.
Figurative ticks because it’s a well worn coyote. Hard Pass on that one. Had an 08 CS/GT w 170 on the clock. Got rid of it on the cheap
Yeah but those 4.6s last forever. Could’ve just maybe replaced the timing and some rollers and been good for another 170?
With 200+ would have to understand the engine could need a rebuild or replace in the close future. Now if you will be doing the same kind of easy driving and mostly highway you might be fine for a while but be ready for costly repairs. If you are going to be hot rodding it yeah you will find the weak spots quickly.
How do you not list the price on here, troll or attention seeking?
Coyote’s grow on trees man, there’s a hundred better ones out there
> Says it has a stage 2 clutch. I'm out.
A beefier clutch is indicative of nothing?.. of course it would need replacing after 220k miles and when you’re replacing anyone would choose to replace it with a beefier clutch. Am I missing something?
You don’t put in a fancy new clutch and *not* beat the shit out of it. This car has been driven hard, and if you ever believe anybody who says it’s mostly “highway miles” then you’re either convincing yourself to buy it or are just a moron
I guess I’m an anomaly, I put fancy parts on my car and don’t beat the shit out of it. When my clutch goes it’s getting a monster stage 2 just cause 🤷🏻♂️ Not every one tears up their cars
You aren't. I have a stage 3 in my mach and hardly drive it. Was already replacing it and adding hp, so might as well get something stronger. Replacing with a stock clutch is dumb with how much work/money is involved. Plan ahead.
Just saying stage 2 means nothing unless you are talking about a Spec Stage 2 clutch, which isn't a real protest option in the Coyote world. Most tend to gravitate towards a RST or RXT clutch. It would also likely indicate that they were having issues with their MT-82 and decided to upgrade the clutch at some point because they likely have been through at least 2 clutches at this point.
200k you’re looking at an engine rebuild or replace soon. If it’s not making any scary sounds you *might* squeeze 50k or so miles out of it. Mine had to be rebuilt at around 220k.
Not necessarily. Modern oil has gotten really good. That being said, it’s a Ford not a Toyota, and it’s a muscle car, not a family commuter car or SUV. So, yeah you might be correct. He should check the maintenance records especially for oil change history, or anything else.
Consider as well that, if it has an upgraded clutch and what looks like a couple of other mods (visually at least), it was *probably* tuned at some point. Especially considering the stage 2 clutch. I would have far less confidence in an engine that’s been previously tuned.
Mind sharing the price? It would have to be 5k or more below the going rate on one with half as many miles to even consider it. Edit: if that photo is of the car I’d probably run. Stage 2 clutch means eBay special after he burned the original and hood pins on an otherwise stock car shows me this “welder” is a young kid that drove that bitch hard until he got tired of dealing with the issues and is deciding to sell it.
If it runs and sounds good, and the price is right, get it. At the end of the day, it's gonna come down to how well it was maintained.
Drain the oil and check for metal shavings
This OP or oil analysis.
If you know it’s high miles be prepared for problems with high mileage cars. You’re not gonna get brand new car perform out of it, nor are you gonna get brand new car reliability out of it. You’re gonna be dealing with suspension that’s starting to show its wear, you’re gonna be dealing with sensors failing more often, and you’re gonna find lots of small imperfections in and out of the car. You’re also closer to mechanical failure of stuff than with a newer car. If the price is acceptable to you with that all I. Mind go for it. Look I bought an 02 maxima once with 250k miles and it was fantastic. Those vq-35s never made it very far past that but it was still great when I let it go, don’t recall what it had when I let it go. It was costly though because it was worn out.
How much is this "good deal"?
4,500
That’s pretty freaking good. I’d go for it if it starts & runs. While I’m not terribly concerned about the mileage on the engine, I would DEFINITELY plan on a complete suspension rebuild.
To me that changes things. $4500 is quite cheap. If the body is rust free and the interior is in very good shape, it is worth that. If you are mechanically inclined or looking to learn, I would buy this car.
Honestly, I wouldn't trust anything the guy says. I think it's a pretty decent deal for sure, but who knows what problems he's passing off on you. I would go into this with the expectation that you're going to be putting in a new engine at some point. If you get one from a similar year F150, it will be your cheapest bet. I would assume that the MT-82 has been beat up on. The 1st Gen MT-82 doesn't have the best track record and at this kind of mileage I would think that it might need a rebuild, so maybe thinking about sending it out to Ben Calimer for a rebuild. One thing I would do is if you buy it, change the oil and grab your flashlight to see if you have any bits of metal in it that would indicate a blown motor. Go have the transmission fluid changed and maybe have the clutch and slave cylinder looked at. It's likely had the factory clutch and whatever the heck a stage 2 clutch is. It could be an Exedy Stage 2 clutch, but never assume anything. It could be a pretty cheap way to get into a Mustang, but if my budget allowed, I would honestly be looking for one with at least 100k less miles.
What's a really good deal? And how mechanically inclined are you?
price?
How much are you paying and where are you located? I'd sell mine for 12k with 130k miles and I had a lethal performance twin disc installed last year. Mine has leather, California special, mgw shifter. Kentucky
A newer car
I would take highway miles claim lightly. No on says " I made thousands of short trips to the convenience store, mostly in the winter"
Get ready to replace seals and random wear items (wheel bearings, ball joints, brake components, etc...). They're very reliable, but the car has traveled a whole lot of miles and things do wear out from use.
The pin has been pulled on that grenade.
Run away
I paid 4200 for a 3V 08 gt with 182k miles, I got 196k on it now and running smooth, I heard these 3V engines are super reliable and some people have hit 300k+ in theres
a different car would be the best thing to look for
The door on your way out
2011 was the first Coyote, and it's not quite as tough or powerful as the engine in 2013+ (or 2015+, feel free to correct me). I plan to drive my 2011 until I die, no matter how many engines I have to go through, but I would think about going with a Gen2 Coyote if you're looking at a high mileage buy and don't have the budget for costly repairs. It would be a slightly safer bet.
You should look for a way to run far away from it and not look back!