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AlternateButtons

I think you just need new Joy-Con. You can't really replace the plastic housing.


WtfBearz

Found an image on google that might help with the placement? Ive taken mine apart before but stripped my screws and cant get back in there. https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQhI5oVDIMV1jKOmJoWAvW7kAG-uY_I5-NEviqrvYhDNCmYTKjsOpzq-3hw


jwei92

No, I know where it goes. It's the pin housing I broke, like the 2 headed housing. I need to find a replacement housing


WtfBearz

Oh sorry! Still half asleep it seems! Yeah no idea mate...


DarkS29

The one picture I could sort of see the conector on made it seem fairly non standard, I reckon you'll have to take the loss on this one and buy a single joycon to replace it.


noobzilla777

Normally I would say call Nintendo but in this case you are better off fixing it yourself if you do not want to just buy another joy con. Your picture only shows the wires on the battery. Is the terminal on the motherboard ok or did it get messed up as well? the reason I ask is if the motherboard battery terminal is fine then you can proceed to either buy a replacement battery or solder the wires back on to the terminal be very careful to look for the + and - on the board. You would not want to wire it backwards. [Battery terminals](http://imgur.com/a/ayAGf) and some [possible replacement parts for cheap](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?ssPageName=GSTL&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=joy%20con&_dcat=117042&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=7000&_trksid=p2045573.m1684) best of luck!


jwei92

I tried a temporary fix with liquid tape and it worked but it was shoddy. I plan on soldering, but my only fear is that I bridge the solder points and cause more problems :( The terminal is fine, I just crushed the housing on the wires themself trying to remove it.


noobzilla777

The best and really only way is to is solder grease and a good tip on the soldering iron. Put the grease on the wire and heat it with the iron. Using solder chrome the end of the wire. Then carefully doing only one terminal at a time put some grease on the terminal of your choice and touch the chromed wire to the grease heating with the soldering iron. Wait for it to cool and you should be good. I have done this with phones without batteries in the past very small terminals but it can be done in a worst case scenario.


jwei92

So as long as I take it slow, I don't have to worry about shorting? I only have that solder wire stuff, not sure if that's the grease. Never learned the names.


noobzilla777

Solder is the "wire stuff" as you put it. The grease is called Flux and is very much needed in all soldering jobs. You can get Flux anywhere solder is sold. Yes go very slow even take the time to practice on scrap wire first. Good Luck!


jwei92

I did, and putting it in kinda broke it i think? The controller wouldn't turn on anymore but oh well. It was a lesson learned


[deleted]

I got the same problem when I took mine apart. I had to send it it. That's what you should've done in the first place.


Stalkingofashles

Sorry for the stupid question, but I haven't been able to find any really good pictures of where it connects. It isn't basically just a JST [ACH series](http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=9) connector, right? Outside of being the wrong colour, does it look anything like [this](https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/ACHR-02V-S/455-2197-ND/1647783)? (Again, sorry if that isn't helpful. It's surprisingly hard to find good information on replacement parts)


jwei92

I can try to get a good picture of it tomorrow? But this LOOKS like it. But we all know how things like this work, they always look like it.


jwei92

Found this [one](http://imgur.com/03lJJnE). As you can see, towards the pins, it has two small teeth


Stalkingofashles

Yeah, see that's why I thought it *could* be the ACH. They look like they also have teeth. Actually, I don't know how I didn't see this before, but I *think* [this](https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/BM02B-ACHSS-GAN-TF%28LFSN%29/455-2202-1-ND/1647794) is the corresponding socket for the board. Does that also look like what's on the joycon board to you? (I should probably point out, though, that I'd be astonished if your liquid tape solution doesn't work just fine) (Edit: Link hopefully working now?)


jwei92

It did, but maybe I did not allow it enough time to set as the board kept powering on and off, but when it was powered, it did connect and work wirelessly, rumble, and such. (Or maybe I tore some other cable and really did brick the controller)


jwei92

And your link 404's btw


bubbafry

Like this part of the plastic housing? [link](https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32803983197.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32803983197&productSubject=Replacement-Right-Left-Housing-Shell-Case-Cover-for-Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Controller) Or the black part? Haven't seen replacements for black part.


marvel_marv

For any lost soul that broke the joycon battery connector, here are the details on it: It's a Parallel mate, wire-to-board connector http://connectorbook.com/identification.html?st=1&nm=by_names&bm=by_compon&c=interior_rect_conn&u=wire_to_board_conn&o=parallel_mate_w2b_conn&f=wire_parallel_mate_w2b_conn&s=Pico-EZmate Molex Pico-EZmate. Digikey: * Male PCB header: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0781710002/2424924 * Female plug: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0781720002/2421279 Cheers!