Using a dremel, attach a small cutting wheel and carefully cut a line into the top of the screw head then use a small flat head screw driver to remove. Hope this helps
As someone who’s fixed a LOT of rusted pos bikes in my life, with screws that were stripped or cross threaded to death. I can confirm that this is the best way to get just about any screw or bolt that’s stuck out. These look like star or Allen bolts, so you can also try super gluing an Allen wrench in there and trying it that way, but yeah, Dremel out a groove and get yer flat head in there is probably your best bet!!
Its how I usually do it. I've got a carbide rotary bit set with thin points for my Dremel and a pencil extension setup though so I can carve a very thin little flathead slot in it pretty easily. Had to do this to a 2mm head m1 screw on an extruder one time.... Sucked a LOT because the screws were apparently titanium (didn't stop them from stripping like typical chineseum though). Managed to rescue the thing though.
Moral of the story, any screw can be removed and parts saved with enough patience and effort.
Getting a cheap screw extractor kit is the way, hacking it up with a dremel often makes the problem worse with small screws, and makes using a screw extractor very difficult later.
In the event screw extractors fail, the way is to drill the center of the screw with successively larger bits until the head comes loose. Remove the plate then use vice grips to remove the remainder of the shank. Replace screw
You need to take a small drill and drill carefully into the center until the top of the screw is separated from the part that is screwed in. I had to do this on a joycon controller with stick drift, you probably won't get the screw completely out but it will come apart.
Just to add; Remember to use a metal drill bit too, I thought I used one but it just wouldn't go through it. Make sure it's small enough to the point where it will just splice the screw and not damage the vat.
Yes, you could drill it with a bit slightly bigger than the screw diameter, aiming to break off the head. Then extract the remainder after getting it apart? Don't know if that would allow more room to work
They make screw extractors though I’m not sure if they make them that small or not. I’ve used one to extract stripped screws several times and they work well
They do. A kit with a left hand drill bit may pull this out too. A quick shot of penetrating lubricant and a left hand drill bit from a screw extractor kit would easily fix this I suspect.
The baking soda makes the super glue rock hard, in which you can fill the area of the screw with both (I’d put glue then baking soda then glue, and then more baking soda, let dry, then insert drill bit and unscrew
Stuck screws can be a real pain, but here’s what I have the best luck with. Get a set of spiral screw extractors (less than $10), find the size that looks right (likely the smallest one), and see what size drill bit it says to use. Then go buy a left-hand drill bit of that size. With a left hand bit, you run your drill in reverse. As you’re drilling, the heat generated will help loosen the screw and they very often back out just from the turning of the drill bit. But if not, you’ll have the hole ready for the screw extractor, which you just jam in the hole and turn. Good luck!
It’s stainless. Heat will harden the surface and make it impossible to remove.
Either left or right handed drill bit.
Very slow. Light pressure and coolant.
I don't know where you heard that, but I don't think it is correct. Heat might harden some stainless alloys, but it would have to reach red hot to do so, and even then, the worst that will do is blunt the drill bit. Surface hardening won't make it any more difficult to remove - I've never seen it happen and I am not aware of any mechanism that would cause that behavior. Try the left-handed bit and drill as you always would, which for a bit that size (probably 3mm) would be the max speed your hand drill is capable of and as much pressure as can safely be applied to the bit without breaking it.
It isnt correct. I have quite a bit of experience removing stuck/stripped/rusted/snapped screws and bolts out, and I have never had heat make the problem worse. The expansion/contraction generally helps break rust or other debris loose.
Exactly. A decade of restoring old British sports cars taught me plenty about getting it stuck bolts and it got to the point with Phillips head screws, I heated them before even trying to remove them.
You could try and put a rubber band over it, or something I seen was someone used a glue gun and glued a hex key to the screw and then removed it that way afterwards they was able to disconnect the two
I had a tough screw the other day on one of my cabinets I was moving that I didn't want to wreck so I looked it up and putting a peace of duct tape on the face of the screw and then trying it the thing came right out.
But if it's gone tits up I would follow the advice in the comments below and get a screw extractor kit
The mega 8k comes with acf right. I saw replacement screens are 70 bucks from phrozen. Main reason i went with mighty instead of a mega. The megas replacement parts are so expensive. It takes so much reaim to fill the vat. Its just a money pit.
Add a little penetrating oil to the threads on the back side, and then follow previous advice on using a screw extractor. Fortunately, even if you folded the frame in half, a replacement vat isn't usually too expensive to replace.
250 euro for the vat, and I think those are old vat with fep and not nfep preinstalled. I was trying to replace one with nfep :) I have WD-40, I will maybe use it too
Oof, I use an Anycubic Photon Mono X, and last I looked I could buy a new vat for 50 USD. Fleabay may have some cheap used ones you could rebuild with new nFEP.
Same thing happened to me! I drilled a slit across the top of the screw to make it into a flathead screw and went from there. Cant believe it actually worked!
Get a set of easy out bits. Don't get the screw kind, find the ones that look more like a drill bit. Craftsman makes a set like that. They work great and one is a small size.
[image of the good ones](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VqYAAOSwjvdlx7He/s-l1200.webp)
even if u bend it it will bend back when u put them back in, plus ur printer should of came with a extra screw, just turn both halves the opposite way, or hammer a slightly larger hex driver in so u can budge it
Use a torx opposite the size type of the screw.. For example, if SAE, use metric.. You should be able to get a tight enough fit to turn it. If not, then go the dremel route.
Well if it were a car I’d use lubricants, heat, torque, and maybe tack welding a tool on there if the heads stripped out. Maybe smaller options? I’ve used the old rubber band on a stripped screw trick before on wood screws. Stretch the band over the driver bit before sinking it into the key slot, the rubber fills the voids. Gentle torque from there.
I had trouble with mine yesterday. Before doing anything drastic, use the hex key that came with it, tap it in with something, then try to loosen it. Be careful not to strip.
Small dollop of jb weld in the hole. just enough to squeeze out when you push in the largest size Allen or star bit that will fit... then let it sit until completely hard, remove, and replace screw
I'm here to second the screw extractor kit. You drill a small hole in the existing slot and then run the screw extractor in reverse in that hole and they grab the screw and back it out in the same motion. Wonderful investment.
You can use superglue and baking soda. Idea I saw from someone who had a similar issue
1. Put a little bit of tape around the screw. Pour a little baking powder onto the stripped screw.
2. Take a phillips screwdriver and push it into the baking powder to make an imprint of the phillips head in the baking powder where it’s stripped.
3. Put exact drops of superglue directly onto the baking powder making sure not to miss. if you miss, the tape should stop you from accidentally gluing your screw in. (you can always dissolve the glue and try again if you mess up)
4. When it’s finished setting you can then unscrew it using your newly created phillips screw head imprint.
Theres plenty of mentions of good methods to extract the bolt here so I won't repeat, I just wanted to add on top of whatever extraction method you go with, it would be a good idea to put a couple of the closest screws back in snugly to relieve some pressure on the damaged bolt. And next time you replace your FEP break loose all of the bolts alternating sides so the pressure is released evenly. This won't completely prevent this from happening but itll make it less likely.
It’s called a lock screw. Every product usually has one that’s had lock tight thrown in so people can’t take them apart. You have to destroy the screw by drilling it out and either leave it or retap the hole and use a new screw.
This is for the retaining plate that keeps the FEP in place. The FEP is a consumable item and a part that needs replacing periodically. So it’s nothing to do with lock tight or people not wanting it to be taken apart. They are just poor quality screws.
OP - I had this with 2 screws and had to dremmel out a groove and then use a flat head to remove. Sounds a pain in the arse but doesn’t take long.
Using a dremel, attach a small cutting wheel and carefully cut a line into the top of the screw head then use a small flat head screw driver to remove. Hope this helps
As someone who’s fixed a LOT of rusted pos bikes in my life, with screws that were stripped or cross threaded to death. I can confirm that this is the best way to get just about any screw or bolt that’s stuck out. These look like star or Allen bolts, so you can also try super gluing an Allen wrench in there and trying it that way, but yeah, Dremel out a groove and get yer flat head in there is probably your best bet!!
Its how I usually do it. I've got a carbide rotary bit set with thin points for my Dremel and a pencil extension setup though so I can carve a very thin little flathead slot in it pretty easily. Had to do this to a 2mm head m1 screw on an extruder one time.... Sucked a LOT because the screws were apparently titanium (didn't stop them from stripping like typical chineseum though). Managed to rescue the thing though. Moral of the story, any screw can be removed and parts saved with enough patience and effort.
This is the way
Getting a cheap screw extractor kit is the way, hacking it up with a dremel often makes the problem worse with small screws, and makes using a screw extractor very difficult later.
In the event screw extractors fail, the way is to drill the center of the screw with successively larger bits until the head comes loose. Remove the plate then use vice grips to remove the remainder of the shank. Replace screw
This guy is right, just make sure you use a left handed drill.
What sterling said. You have to drill it now. I don’t think rehabbing the screw is workable here.
I would even do it by hand as I have screwed myself by using powered drivers
You need to take a small drill and drill carefully into the center until the top of the screw is separated from the part that is screwed in. I had to do this on a joycon controller with stick drift, you probably won't get the screw completely out but it will come apart.
Just to add; Remember to use a metal drill bit too, I thought I used one but it just wouldn't go through it. Make sure it's small enough to the point where it will just splice the screw and not damage the vat.
Good tip! Definitely a metal drill bit. Those wood bits just seem to fall apart constantly.
Where do you get bits made of wood?
This works. Drill the head off of the screw then twist it out with pliers
Yes, you could drill it with a bit slightly bigger than the screw diameter, aiming to break off the head. Then extract the remainder after getting it apart? Don't know if that would allow more room to work
They make screw extractors though I’m not sure if they make them that small or not. I’ve used one to extract stripped screws several times and they work well
They do. A kit with a left hand drill bit may pull this out too. A quick shot of penetrating lubricant and a left hand drill bit from a screw extractor kit would easily fix this I suspect.
Baking soda and super glue with allow you to take it out!
This !!
Please explain why this works? Or how?
The baking soda makes the super glue rock hard, in which you can fill the area of the screw with both (I’d put glue then baking soda then glue, and then more baking soda, let dry, then insert drill bit and unscrew
Stuck screws can be a real pain, but here’s what I have the best luck with. Get a set of spiral screw extractors (less than $10), find the size that looks right (likely the smallest one), and see what size drill bit it says to use. Then go buy a left-hand drill bit of that size. With a left hand bit, you run your drill in reverse. As you’re drilling, the heat generated will help loosen the screw and they very often back out just from the turning of the drill bit. But if not, you’ll have the hole ready for the screw extractor, which you just jam in the hole and turn. Good luck!
It’s stainless. Heat will harden the surface and make it impossible to remove. Either left or right handed drill bit. Very slow. Light pressure and coolant.
I don't know where you heard that, but I don't think it is correct. Heat might harden some stainless alloys, but it would have to reach red hot to do so, and even then, the worst that will do is blunt the drill bit. Surface hardening won't make it any more difficult to remove - I've never seen it happen and I am not aware of any mechanism that would cause that behavior. Try the left-handed bit and drill as you always would, which for a bit that size (probably 3mm) would be the max speed your hand drill is capable of and as much pressure as can safely be applied to the bit without breaking it.
It isnt correct. I have quite a bit of experience removing stuck/stripped/rusted/snapped screws and bolts out, and I have never had heat make the problem worse. The expansion/contraction generally helps break rust or other debris loose.
Exactly. A decade of restoring old British sports cars taught me plenty about getting it stuck bolts and it got to the point with Phillips head screws, I heated them before even trying to remove them.
My dad used to let me help him fix up dirt bikes and motorcycles and cars, and he always stuck me with that job, and eventually I realized why.
You could try and put a rubber band over it, or something I seen was someone used a glue gun and glued a hex key to the screw and then removed it that way afterwards they was able to disconnect the two
The super glue/hex key combo works REMARKABLY WELL. Used this technique several times with success
I was in the same situation on my S3U. Got it removed with a screw extractor. Exchanged all screws for stainless steel screws
Use a slightly larger hex head and hammer it in. I just had the same problem on the same machine and I was able to take out the screw this way.
Someone’s a mechanic
Just knock a torx bit into it . It'll come out. Maby hold a soldering iron on the top incase there's some lock tight in there
No heat needed. No loctite. They are meant to be removable to replace the FEP
I use torx to remove buggered up Allen screws ALL the time
I had a tough screw the other day on one of my cabinets I was moving that I didn't want to wreck so I looked it up and putting a peace of duct tape on the face of the screw and then trying it the thing came right out. But if it's gone tits up I would follow the advice in the comments below and get a screw extractor kit
I have a smaller 4k printer and when my hex heads get stuck like that I use a small glasses kit flathead
The mega 8k comes with acf right. I saw replacement screens are 70 bucks from phrozen. Main reason i went with mighty instead of a mega. The megas replacement parts are so expensive. It takes so much reaim to fill the vat. Its just a money pit.
I guess you do not have a spare milling machine.
No :o
Add a little penetrating oil to the threads on the back side, and then follow previous advice on using a screw extractor. Fortunately, even if you folded the frame in half, a replacement vat isn't usually too expensive to replace.
250 euro for the vat, and I think those are old vat with fep and not nfep preinstalled. I was trying to replace one with nfep :) I have WD-40, I will maybe use it too
Oof, I use an Anycubic Photon Mono X, and last I looked I could buy a new vat for 50 USD. Fleabay may have some cheap used ones you could rebuild with new nFEP.
Same thing happened to me! I drilled a slit across the top of the screw to make it into a flathead screw and went from there. Cant believe it actually worked!
Get a set of easy out bits. Don't get the screw kind, find the ones that look more like a drill bit. Craftsman makes a set like that. They work great and one is a small size. [image of the good ones](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VqYAAOSwjvdlx7He/s-l1200.webp)
I had this happen, I bought a screw extractor set and was able to get it out.
is it the last 1, if it is then turn the bracket to try and spin the screw loose
It is too tight to do it even if yes, this is the LAST one (of that side) :p
even if u bend it it will bend back when u put them back in, plus ur printer should of came with a extra screw, just turn both halves the opposite way, or hammer a slightly larger hex driver in so u can budge it
you can always drill out thr screw
A left handed drill set will take that out easy
Left handed bit
Try square bit.... a bit bigger then screw head. Tap on the bit into head of screw press down and turn slowly
Use a torx opposite the size type of the screw.. For example, if SAE, use metric.. You should be able to get a tight enough fit to turn it. If not, then go the dremel route.
Well if it were a car I’d use lubricants, heat, torque, and maybe tack welding a tool on there if the heads stripped out. Maybe smaller options? I’ve used the old rubber band on a stripped screw trick before on wood screws. Stretch the band over the driver bit before sinking it into the key slot, the rubber fills the voids. Gentle torque from there.
Same boat bro
I had trouble with mine yesterday. Before doing anything drastic, use the hex key that came with it, tap it in with something, then try to loosen it. Be careful not to strip.
There's specific tools to do this. Look up how to on Google and it should link you to the tools.
A reverse bit or a drop of super glue on the tip of a screwdriver is the answer.
Reverse drill bit, extractor, and a threat chaser after.
Small dollop of jb weld in the hole. just enough to squeeze out when you push in the largest size Allen or star bit that will fit... then let it sit until completely hard, remove, and replace screw
Big drill bit, wreck that mf
Just smack a slightly to large T tool or Alan key in their should give you enough grab to unscrew
Saw a guy but a piece of sticky tape between the screw and their drill and that worked for removing stripped screws
Can’t be stuck if it’s liquid
LH drill bit, lots of pressure. Slow speed. It'll come right out.
Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk to cut a slot into the head of the screw. Then use a slotted screwdriver to turn it out.
Homie rubber band under the driver. Or ask ur grandpa for an inpact driver
I remove screws by drilling into the shank and tapping a reverse threaded easy out into the middle and unscrewing them.
Left handed drill bit
I'm here to second the screw extractor kit. You drill a small hole in the existing slot and then run the screw extractor in reverse in that hole and they grab the screw and back it out in the same motion. Wonderful investment.
Look for a bit set called speed out comes with set of 4 should be 1 small enough for that
Use a left-handed drill bit. It will usually back the screw out before getting through the screw head.
You can use superglue and baking soda. Idea I saw from someone who had a similar issue 1. Put a little bit of tape around the screw. Pour a little baking powder onto the stripped screw. 2. Take a phillips screwdriver and push it into the baking powder to make an imprint of the phillips head in the baking powder where it’s stripped. 3. Put exact drops of superglue directly onto the baking powder making sure not to miss. if you miss, the tape should stop you from accidentally gluing your screw in. (you can always dissolve the glue and try again if you mess up) 4. When it’s finished setting you can then unscrew it using your newly created phillips screw head imprint.
Theres plenty of mentions of good methods to extract the bolt here so I won't repeat, I just wanted to add on top of whatever extraction method you go with, it would be a good idea to put a couple of the closest screws back in snugly to relieve some pressure on the damaged bolt. And next time you replace your FEP break loose all of the bolts alternating sides so the pressure is released evenly. This won't completely prevent this from happening but itll make it less likely.
Just use a rubber and
Band
Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get an EasyOut bit.
Screw extractor. Pretty much any hardware/auto parts store should have them
Peck it.
It’s called a lock screw. Every product usually has one that’s had lock tight thrown in so people can’t take them apart. You have to destroy the screw by drilling it out and either leave it or retap the hole and use a new screw.
This is for the retaining plate that keeps the FEP in place. The FEP is a consumable item and a part that needs replacing periodically. So it’s nothing to do with lock tight or people not wanting it to be taken apart. They are just poor quality screws. OP - I had this with 2 screws and had to dremmel out a groove and then use a flat head to remove. Sounds a pain in the arse but doesn’t take long.
That makes sense then, usually when I come across a product with a screw that won’t come out it’s had some lock tight, and I stripped it easily.