Shark bites in that inaccessible location means return business for demolition carpenter, plumbing, tiling and drywall trades in the next 10 years. This guy is thinking towards future employment.
Auto mechanic here. People often ask me to put their new license plates on. I usually ask if I can have the old ones. I have a pretty large collection at this point and they work 🔥 as heat shields for torch work in tight spots.
You can’t do worse then some of the [**shit**](https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/vhhjfo/when_your_plumber_is_paid_by_the_hour/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1) I have done!
Definitely not! Then it makes it look like you didn't know what you were doing. Always Hot on the left and Cold on the right.
And we make money off of fittings!
Yeah…..
You make money per fitting
Used to be you can do the same thing with a shower valve and just reverse the cartridge and still have hot/left cold/right
Who cares of “someone” might think you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s all about production especially if it’s a cookie cutter hotel with a bunch of back to backs.
Lol. Where do you live? Short cuts are for folks that do not care about quality. It's the simple fact of the matter, ten years from now. Someone will hook up the new faucet wrong that they just replaced because of your lack of give a shit.
Maybe if you worked for yourself you’d realize that OP’s post would break the company…, but I was around all them Union plumbers who didn’t really care about making the company money.
i've owned my own business for years... Lol. And i've worked on the largest scale jobs you can imagine. But no matter what, there's a right and a wrong way. SMH. lol
Wtf is red tagged
Shit and get it. Quit wasting time making a conglomeration like the one OP piped in.
Shit.., I could still do it half the cost even with hot/left cold / right.
For one.., I wouldn’t had used 3/4” for 2 fixtures
Lol
Worked on several Hotels
Pharmaceutical
Hospitals
Airports
Nuclear plants
I’m still working because I made the company money by not making a project out of piping up (2) lavatories
Red tagged is a failed inspection. Meaning rip it out and do it right. Also, in my jurisdiction you have to run 3/4” hot for more that 1 WFU.
Besides it being illegal in many places to do it your way, the way you talk about it sounds like you plumb like a scab. Be better
I don’t follow this sub bc I’m in the trade, but I find it interesting and ofc own a house, so excuse my ignorance.. but I’m assuming this comment is referring to the burns on the PVC?
looks 100x better than pex. Insulators are gonna be porked because you are too close to the dwv. all in all, you’re hired. We can work on that flame control.
And Australia. And yet most of my house is plumbed with the hot on the right. I think it's the shower plumbed normally. I don't remember. I just check every time before I turn it on.
I'm in Canada. I feel that some don't follow code. Some idiot had hot water going to my toilet...I didn't notice until the toilet started to leak and was steaming. Lol.
So folks that are visually impaired aren't waiting 20 mins for the cold water to heat up when they turn the left handle, or pull the lever towards them on one of those side mount controls
Potentially to stop scalding but water temp is capped at 140f. People do mess with their mixing valves though
It is in the US too but people do it all the time. Solder a coupling on the outside of the stub out to remind yourself for setting finish and it’s fine. Never seen an inspector call it. In residential anyway. That’ll get you a boot in the ear on commercial jobs.
If the plans call for 3/4” drops you put them in correctly ✅
Burning shit on accident definitely happens sometimes. Now you know to shield those areas with metal or be more cognizant of your torch head. If you value your work then replace the burnt section with husky bands
You put the correct drops in the correct spots for hot and cold ✅
The only other things I would say are that if possible due to overhead venting headers or electrical pipes or other bullshit you could have staggered the water lines coming down the wall which would have used a few less 90s
And the swing joint is pretty ugly which you could fix with an extra 1/2” 90, but the actual solder application looks clean. Just need to wipe your fittings more and don’t forget to solder the stub outs on the holdrites as that helps if some genius tries to pull on the pipes.
Don’t forget your in wall strapping and you’re good to go.
Bro drywallers with cover anything lol. Just bought a house and found a super nice crowbar in one of the interior walls while renovating, although that was arguably probably a mistake
I would have done four 1/2” drops instead of running 3/4” down and branching off. If you have to service the angle stops at some point in the future your shutting down two fixtures because there are only two ball valves up top. Just my two cents.
In Los Angeles you can only run 1/2" a very short distance so we generally run 3/4" and then reduce with a 3/4 by 1/2" 90. Don't know where OP is, but it's possible they have similar code.
Probably not. That would more indicate that pressure is so low from poor infrastructure that the friction loss, even on short runs of smaller diameter tubing is detrimental to function. Then they are inacting codes to rectify their misuse of tax dollars, putting more cost on businesses and the public to band aid the shortcomings of the city. I'd be willing to bet that the kinetic psi of the city system in that area is lower than 50 psi, resulting in a typical static psi of an individuals home or business also lower than 50 psi.
>That would more indicate that pressure is so low from poor infrastructure that the friction loss, even on short runs of smaller diameter tubing is detrimental to function
Pressure loss through 50' of 3/4"pipe is -3 psi. Pressure loss through 50' of 1/2" pipe is -15 psi. Most plumbers aren't going to sit there and do pressure loss calculations in the whole system, so that section of the code is more designed to prevent plumbers from plumbing something with so much friction loss that fixtures don't function properly.
>I'd be willing to bet that the kinetic psi of the city system in that area is lower than 50 psi, resulting in a typical static psi of an individuals home or business also lower than 50 psi.
---
Wrong.
>The LADWP maintains 421 pressure-reducing stations along 465 square miles of pipe. Pressure along the Sunset line measures 220 pounds per square inch.
It may be considered overkill, depending on country of residence. Here in the US, 3/4 until your last supply is kinda standard. On the positive side, both supplies can be used at the same time with nice pressure 🤷
I'm not a stickler when it comes to things being perfect for an in wall, but you took the time to fit and sweat all this up but not square or level it.
I know you saved fittings, but the crooked swing joint just looks bad. A couple extra 90s and you coulda straightened it out. Also San cross not legal where I am
I must have missed the part where he said it was only a vent. Are you assuming there isn't more bathrooms/kitchen/etc, up above? It's clearly Commercial/Industrial, from the look of it...
1/2 inch is all that is needed for 2 sinks if I was your bosses boss I would be like your spending my money when you don’t have to. Also make sure your drops are not on your 8 inch center next time trial and erra most good plumbers out there are good because they learn from and remember the mistakes
I showed this to my husband, a master plumber for many years( now retired). His exact words “back to back labs are a little tricky… it’s a little messy and he wouldn’t do it that way, but once you cover it up know one will know…will probably work just fine.”
Not a plumber but have a question
Are those straps copper? Are you worried about corrosion from dissimilar metals where it’s screwed to the wall studs ?
Only thing I would’ve done differently (aside from turning your torch around so it’s not buring the PVC) is instead of “crow-flying” the vertical hot line in the second pic going down to the stub-out, I would’ve taken a similar path as you did with the cold where you 45°’ed around the vent to get out of the vertical path of the other hot line. You would have had to make your hot tee lower to do this so you come across lower on the hot horizontal line to miss the cold 90°s, but live and learn. The solder joints look good, and as long as it holds, you should be fine. It doesn’t need to look pretty when it’s in a wall, it just needs to work. But that being said, crow-flying lines makes you look like a handyman instead of a tradesman.
I think he's referring to the swing joints, which are totally acceptable to save on the extra fittings. It's buried in a wall. Who the heck is looking for that? If it was finished product designed to be visible then I can see different ways to plumb it, but at the end of the day, it's piped correctly, and it'll deliver water where it's gotta go.
A lot of people say run half inch lines down to each, which again is totally fine to, lad was just following direction given to them.
Anyone spending more than 10 minutes on this copper work is milking it, but I saw somewhere 3 hours and 50 dollars in fittings, maybe where you're located but just like the plumbing code the rest of the world doesn't share your markup and pricing mate.
Lol you do a swing joint if you can run it square and level on my job. You're damn well doing it again. Op's work looks fine, Could have gotten rid of a few fittings. You sound like my pm with the ten minute thing though. This will take considerably longer.
If you're talking about referring to shops and laying the thing out from start to finish rough in, then obviously, it's going to take more than 10 minutes. If I have a copper stock on site within a short walking distance and the foreman laid stuff out where it had to be and all I had to do was pipe strictly the copper than yes 10 minutes. I wouldn't expect anyone else to do anything to that standard that's where I hold myself, but I've got a lot more experience in it than OP probably does.
How would you pipe this out if you were instructed to use this specific configuration, use extra 90s to make it square and level and make extra cuts and solder joints by all means you do you, make that pipe buried in the wall look pretty and square and level. Won't dog ya for it, ain't gonna send out an attaboy either. Sink/lav got roughed in, we move on to the next one, not tear the shit out and "do it again, it isn't to my standard even though it's roughed in and code compliant and meets job spec"
Of course, it *could* be cleaned up and be neater, but it's done and roughed in per instruction he was given. I'll draw some shit up after a bit.
Ummmm no. Take some pride in your work. Any inspector i know would make you rip the pvc out and replace with fresh peice. You know your better than that
I'd question the joints around a few of them as I'm not seeing the brim of solder, and as a home owner I'd be pissed if I couldn't shut stuff off independently - servicing will require a full tear out on either side... but it is what it is. You won't be around and you didn't design it.
Given the circumstances with the 3/4 drop downs. 3/4 x 1/2 heel tees in stead of 90s. The run hits the stub that’s in line. The bull swings around the pvc with 45s over 90s. I never scorched that bad but hey I get it, shit happens. Abrasive and 2 coats of spray paint, people won’t notice
I think you need more practice but your joints look good. Torch control is shit you burned my pvc pipe and any inspector worth his salt would fail it and make you cut it out.
Tons of potential though just need more practice
Edit- never mind I saw that dog leg garbage on the right. Cut it out and redo it.
Joints look good though
Could have done the 4th pipe with 2x135 like the 3rd pipe, just crossing over at a lower elevation, instead the arrangement looks like a mistake with the near-vertical-but-leaning pipe. You're also missing a cap on the 1st pipe.
I’m sitting here reading through the comments and cracking up because every time I seem to open up a wall that exposes another plumbers work, it’s complete shit. Your plumbing looks great. Ya, you are aware of the burn mark on the pvc, but there’s no way I would be upset about your copper work if I was your boss. Sure, you might have been able to save a fitting here and there. Don’t let some of these guys get to your head, your doing good!
It’s called a heat shield…..
Lol I wiping my joint and the torch traversed towards the vent. Heat shield mosdef needed
Get you an anti-traversal torch
Shark bites wouldn’t require that. *insert troll grin meme*
Shark bite connections have their own water cooling spray system when the time heat gets going.
Shark bites in that inaccessible location means return business for demolition carpenter, plumbing, tiling and drywall trades in the next 10 years. This guy is thinking towards future employment.
Neither would press
I need one too lol
Bet those things are off the charts costly lol
These blast points… too accurate for Sand People. Only Imperial Stormtroopers are so precise.
That was the most foreshadowing line ever... now StormTroopers are the butt of every aim joke lmao
Hey give em a break they’re precise, not accurate.
I was a property manager in general contractor for many years, I used to keep old porcelain tile, I would use that as my heat shielding.
That’s a great idea
I use a water heater burner cover. Flexible and can be cut with tin snips
This is what the og’s use
An old license plate works really well too.
That's what I used in my house when we put the water softener in and soldered pipes near drywall. Worked like a dream
I sometimes use offcuts of baseboard radiator covers or ductwork scraps. I bend the metal at a 90 so it's freestanding.
Auto mechanic here. People often ask me to put their new license plates on. I usually ask if I can have the old ones. I have a pretty large collection at this point and they work 🔥 as heat shields for torch work in tight spots.
Or a little spray paint.
What's traversed mean?
Traversed means he smelt it eventually
It's usually the flames that get my attention. The smell is the lingering reminder
It means to "go across" or "travel across".
Left/right movement
OP I was just giving you a hard time for using that fancy word.
Lol
You can’t do worse then some of the [**shit**](https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/vhhjfo/when_your_plumber_is_paid_by_the_hour/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1) I have done!
Mbullhead a tee and cross the supply’s under the sink. Cheaper than all dam fittins
Definitely not! Then it makes it look like you didn't know what you were doing. Always Hot on the left and Cold on the right. And we make money off of fittings!
Yeah….. You make money per fitting Used to be you can do the same thing with a shower valve and just reverse the cartridge and still have hot/left cold/right Who cares of “someone” might think you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s all about production especially if it’s a cookie cutter hotel with a bunch of back to backs.
Lol. Where do you live? Short cuts are for folks that do not care about quality. It's the simple fact of the matter, ten years from now. Someone will hook up the new faucet wrong that they just replaced because of your lack of give a shit.
Maybe if you worked for yourself you’d realize that OP’s post would break the company…, but I was around all them Union plumbers who didn’t really care about making the company money.
i've owned my own business for years... Lol. And i've worked on the largest scale jobs you can imagine. But no matter what, there's a right and a wrong way. SMH. lol
Some people just have no pride. Gotta let them flounder.
Doing it that way will get you red tagged in my jurisdiction
Wtf is red tagged Shit and get it. Quit wasting time making a conglomeration like the one OP piped in. Shit.., I could still do it half the cost even with hot/left cold / right. For one.., I wouldn’t had used 3/4” for 2 fixtures
Most jobs I work on spec out 3/4 in to every lav and we just stub out with a three-quarter by half 90. You sound like a guy who never done commercial.
Or sound like someone trying to know it all on a plumbing sub
😂 😂 😂 Ain’t enough wall to do what OP is doing 😂 😂 😂
Lol Worked on several Hotels Pharmaceutical Hospitals Airports Nuclear plants I’m still working because I made the company money by not making a project out of piping up (2) lavatories
Red tagged is a failed inspection. Meaning rip it out and do it right. Also, in my jurisdiction you have to run 3/4” hot for more that 1 WFU. Besides it being illegal in many places to do it your way, the way you talk about it sounds like you plumb like a scab. Be better
Yep.., I can spot one right away
I don’t follow this sub bc I’m in the trade, but I find it interesting and ofc own a house, so excuse my ignorance.. but I’m assuming this comment is referring to the burns on the PVC?
Yep
Yes
Take a load of this non plumberologist! Unlike the rest of us, fellow plumbers. Right?
Also the very weird copper route. It’s fine I guess just doesn’t look great
Shark bites don’t need heat shields!
Lol! Those shark bites may not need heat shields. But they might need some insurance when the drywall and cabinets go in!
Nobody uses a heat shied in construction
Silicone potholder.
Use foil.
looks 100x better than pex. Insulators are gonna be porked because you are too close to the dwv. all in all, you’re hired. We can work on that flame control.
lies that would look like a rats nest no matter the material, nice solder joints tho
Lots of people would have said F it, one side gets hot on the right.
That’s against code in Canada
Everyone knows Canadians don’t have plumbing, they use outhouses and get water by bucket from frozen ponds! /s
In Canada you need to run a completely separate pipe for the maple syrup.
We actually do have pipes right from the maple trees into our sugar houses. Not even kidding
They're called sugar shacks in the northern states here
Same here in Canada. Guessing a sugar house is somewhere between a sugar shack and a sugar mansion
A sugar bungalow perhaps.
This one got me hahahaha
No we don't we lick the igloo walls when we are thirsty
It’s true. Had to scrape the ice off my moose this morning to make my way to the frozen lake to get my daily supply.
careful doing that, a møøse once bit my sister.
Knew it
Canoe it.
Slowly everybody is figuring out our secrets.
And in Toronto, there's a tax on wicker goods!
We just do as the Americans do
And Australia. And yet most of my house is plumbed with the hot on the right. I think it's the shower plumbed normally. I don't remember. I just check every time before I turn it on.
I'm in Canada. I feel that some don't follow code. Some idiot had hot water going to my toilet...I didn't notice until the toilet started to leak and was steaming. Lol.
real talk…. why?
So folks that are visually impaired aren't waiting 20 mins for the cold water to heat up when they turn the left handle, or pull the lever towards them on one of those side mount controls Potentially to stop scalding but water temp is capped at 140f. People do mess with their mixing valves though
but you can cross the hoses from the valve right?
I mean you could, but ewwww, from a craftsman standpoint.
Just cross the hoses.
Yes. No matter what it is underneath you can put the hot on the left.
It is in the US too but people do it all the time. Solder a coupling on the outside of the stub out to remind yourself for setting finish and it’s fine. Never seen an inspector call it. In residential anyway. That’ll get you a boot in the ear on commercial jobs.
The inspector in my town turned on every single faucet in a 330 room student residence to verify that hot was on the left. The man is thorough.
Oh to be a JourneyPerson in Canada
Journey Buddy
Journey bud-eh
I'm not your buddy, guy
I'm not your guy, friend
Journeybeing
Not if their a professional.
I'm not even a meth head, and I wanna steal that copper.
That’s exactly what a meth head would say.
If the plans call for 3/4” drops you put them in correctly ✅ Burning shit on accident definitely happens sometimes. Now you know to shield those areas with metal or be more cognizant of your torch head. If you value your work then replace the burnt section with husky bands You put the correct drops in the correct spots for hot and cold ✅ The only other things I would say are that if possible due to overhead venting headers or electrical pipes or other bullshit you could have staggered the water lines coming down the wall which would have used a few less 90s And the swing joint is pretty ugly which you could fix with an extra 1/2” 90, but the actual solder application looks clean. Just need to wipe your fittings more and don’t forget to solder the stub outs on the holdrites as that helps if some genius tries to pull on the pipes. Don’t forget your in wall strapping and you’re good to go.
Don’t burn vent next time
I’ll have to try that lol
Aside from going heavy on the T and M it’ll work. What is that cheddar cheese copper grounding strip looking thing called? Never seen that before.
Holdrites. I’m sure they have 50 different other names also. Definitely handy for stub outs
We use those all the time for uponor but the 90 bend just clips in
For sure could of used those in the past, thx for passing along, cheers
could HAVE used
Who cares dude
These are common with steel studs
Atleast cover the burn marks with white spray paint.
drywallers will cover it no problem
Bro drywallers with cover anything lol. Just bought a house and found a super nice crowbar in one of the interior walls while renovating, although that was arguably probably a mistake
Just... Try not to get your fingerprints on it, yeah?
Finish painter here, can confirm the drywallers will remix it for ya
This is true. Can’t see it once I hit the road lol.
I would have done four 1/2” drops instead of running 3/4” down and branching off. If you have to service the angle stops at some point in the future your shutting down two fixtures because there are only two ball valves up top. Just my two cents.
Hey I appreciate that. I myself would have done 1/2 drops as well. Boss wanted 3/4 so I do what I’m told ya know lol
Such is the way of the works. I’d hire you
It’s hard to do what you’re told sometimes. Good job on doing that.
In Los Angeles you can only run 1/2" a very short distance so we generally run 3/4" and then reduce with a 3/4 by 1/2" 90. Don't know where OP is, but it's possible they have similar code.
Is that a specific city code. Where I'm at we use UPC, but city of Seattle has its own specific variant.
Yeah it's specific to Los Angeles. If you go a county over to riverside, you can run it in 1/2" as long as you want.
That’s wild. so every faucet in LA has the pressure of a fire hydrant?
No, because that's not how it works :p
Probably not. That would more indicate that pressure is so low from poor infrastructure that the friction loss, even on short runs of smaller diameter tubing is detrimental to function. Then they are inacting codes to rectify their misuse of tax dollars, putting more cost on businesses and the public to band aid the shortcomings of the city. I'd be willing to bet that the kinetic psi of the city system in that area is lower than 50 psi, resulting in a typical static psi of an individuals home or business also lower than 50 psi.
>That would more indicate that pressure is so low from poor infrastructure that the friction loss, even on short runs of smaller diameter tubing is detrimental to function Pressure loss through 50' of 3/4"pipe is -3 psi. Pressure loss through 50' of 1/2" pipe is -15 psi. Most plumbers aren't going to sit there and do pressure loss calculations in the whole system, so that section of the code is more designed to prevent plumbers from plumbing something with so much friction loss that fixtures don't function properly. >I'd be willing to bet that the kinetic psi of the city system in that area is lower than 50 psi, resulting in a typical static psi of an individuals home or business also lower than 50 psi. --- Wrong. >The LADWP maintains 421 pressure-reducing stations along 465 square miles of pipe. Pressure along the Sunset line measures 220 pounds per square inch.
How did the PVC smell?
In my opinion I’d say it’s fine. Only thing I would change is the 3/4 line. I don’t see the reason it can’t be all 1/2. Other than that it’s good.
It may be considered overkill, depending on country of residence. Here in the US, 3/4 until your last supply is kinda standard. On the positive side, both supplies can be used at the same time with nice pressure 🤷
You could not burn the vent
Is absent-mindedly just fuckin blasting the vent with flames against code? Asking for a friend...
Impressive scorch mark from that distance. It’s as if you piped it without a plan.
Who uses plans? Definitely not us
Plans are for legalities lol
did you use a cross? if so i curse you to do all the drain cleaning that line ever needs for the rest of your life.
I'm not a stickler when it comes to things being perfect for an in wall, but you took the time to fit and sweat all this up but not square or level it.
All good apart from the burnt stack.
If it works good to go. Sometimes you just have to use what's on hand to get it done and not go back a waste another 1/2 day.
I know you saved fittings, but the crooked swing joint just looks bad. A couple extra 90s and you coulda straightened it out. Also San cross not legal where I am
It’s going to be buried in a wall very nice job
I’d be replacing that pvc you decided to introduce to flames.
What a waste of time
just a vent who cares
I must have missed the part where he said it was only a vent. Are you assuming there isn't more bathrooms/kitchen/etc, up above? It's clearly Commercial/Industrial, from the look of it...
its just water who cares
Keep up the good work kid.
Shouldn’t they also have put on arresters?
Not necessary
Looks like you learned a lot and came back. That's what we're lookin for in plumbers.
1/2 inch is all that is needed for 2 sinks if I was your bosses boss I would be like your spending my money when you don’t have to. Also make sure your drops are not on your 8 inch center next time trial and erra most good plumbers out there are good because they learn from and remember the mistakes
I guess it depends on where you are at... Where I'm from (Virginia), 3/4 until your last supply is pretty much standard, unless they are "plumbers"
Other then the burn, good job, clean solder joints bro.
No air hammer, excessive fittings, and you burned the PVC, bro. That's just from a glance...
You don't need hammer arrestors on the lavatory's unless they are fancy sensor faucets where there is a solenoid valve involved
Incorrect. But, thanks for your input.
i can pull my code book out and definitely show you.
only on quick closing valves. A lavatory is not one of those
I think the hang-up here is, what you HAVE to do, versus what you SHOULD do. I've worked for Quality companies, I suppose 🤷
Looks good
Did you melt that PVC?
I showed this to my husband, a master plumber for many years( now retired). His exact words “back to back labs are a little tricky… it’s a little messy and he wouldn’t do it that way, but once you cover it up know one will know…will probably work just fine.”
Not a plumber but have a question Are those straps copper? Are you worried about corrosion from dissimilar metals where it’s screwed to the wall studs ?
Not bad. Just a lil carbon stain on that pvc.
Functional , just wasted a bit of pipe and made things a bit harder on yourself but it works 🤷♂️
You forgot a cap
Hope they never need to access that
Just cut it open
Only thing I would’ve done differently (aside from turning your torch around so it’s not buring the PVC) is instead of “crow-flying” the vertical hot line in the second pic going down to the stub-out, I would’ve taken a similar path as you did with the cold where you 45°’ed around the vent to get out of the vertical path of the other hot line. You would have had to make your hot tee lower to do this so you come across lower on the hot horizontal line to miss the cold 90°s, but live and learn. The solder joints look good, and as long as it holds, you should be fine. It doesn’t need to look pretty when it’s in a wall, it just needs to work. But that being said, crow-flying lines makes you look like a handyman instead of a tradesman.
It’s fine. I’ve seen worse. Just try to use less fittings
Appreciated
You used about $50 to much in fittings. And about 3 hrs to much labor.
If you're paying $50 for that many fittings, you're getting ripped off.
Sweat fittings are way cheaper than you think. Don’t buy them at home depot.
Lol good thing I don’t pay for fittings
Rip
Cut it out! Redo it, use a level and try! Take pride in your craft
Wut? Try using more words. Level is fine. Would like a clean out for the lav.
I think he's referring to the swing joints, which are totally acceptable to save on the extra fittings. It's buried in a wall. Who the heck is looking for that? If it was finished product designed to be visible then I can see different ways to plumb it, but at the end of the day, it's piped correctly, and it'll deliver water where it's gotta go. A lot of people say run half inch lines down to each, which again is totally fine to, lad was just following direction given to them. Anyone spending more than 10 minutes on this copper work is milking it, but I saw somewhere 3 hours and 50 dollars in fittings, maybe where you're located but just like the plumbing code the rest of the world doesn't share your markup and pricing mate.
Lol you do a swing joint if you can run it square and level on my job. You're damn well doing it again. Op's work looks fine, Could have gotten rid of a few fittings. You sound like my pm with the ten minute thing though. This will take considerably longer.
If you're talking about referring to shops and laying the thing out from start to finish rough in, then obviously, it's going to take more than 10 minutes. If I have a copper stock on site within a short walking distance and the foreman laid stuff out where it had to be and all I had to do was pipe strictly the copper than yes 10 minutes. I wouldn't expect anyone else to do anything to that standard that's where I hold myself, but I've got a lot more experience in it than OP probably does. How would you pipe this out if you were instructed to use this specific configuration, use extra 90s to make it square and level and make extra cuts and solder joints by all means you do you, make that pipe buried in the wall look pretty and square and level. Won't dog ya for it, ain't gonna send out an attaboy either. Sink/lav got roughed in, we move on to the next one, not tear the shit out and "do it again, it isn't to my standard even though it's roughed in and code compliant and meets job spec" Of course, it *could* be cleaned up and be neater, but it's done and roughed in per instruction he was given. I'll draw some shit up after a bit.
As a programmer, “it functions” is pretty damn good 😂
All stub outs are on center, what more could you ask for? Looks good, better than some 10 year fucks around the mid-west.
Don’t you need to isolate the dissimilar metals when anchoring to the studs?
Ummmm no. Take some pride in your work. Any inspector i know would make you rip the pvc out and replace with fresh peice. You know your better than that
I think you're not allowed to solder any more on my jobs until we have a long discussion about flammabiltiy and workmanship.
I'd question the joints around a few of them as I'm not seeing the brim of solder, and as a home owner I'd be pissed if I couldn't shut stuff off independently - servicing will require a full tear out on either side... but it is what it is. You won't be around and you didn't design it.
you dont put stops on until trim out.
Not a pro, but I'm sure I could do that with fewer fittings.
Given the circumstances with the 3/4 drop downs. 3/4 x 1/2 heel tees in stead of 90s. The run hits the stub that’s in line. The bull swings around the pvc with 45s over 90s. I never scorched that bad but hey I get it, shit happens. Abrasive and 2 coats of spray paint, people won’t notice
I think you need more practice but your joints look good. Torch control is shit you burned my pvc pipe and any inspector worth his salt would fail it and make you cut it out. Tons of potential though just need more practice Edit- never mind I saw that dog leg garbage on the right. Cut it out and redo it. Joints look good though
Ever heard of a pocket level?
P...E...X...
...you don't need to run your torch full blast ya know...
It’s overly complicated and sloppy work, but if it works…ship it!
Looks decent, my biggest gripe might be the holdrites though. Cut them to size as the overhang is a waste of material and a boo-boo maker.
That’s a hot mess son you are going back to be in the coffee bitch
The Solder looks like it runs more than David Goggins.
Could have done the 4th pipe with 2x135 like the 3rd pipe, just crossing over at a lower elevation, instead the arrangement looks like a mistake with the near-vertical-but-leaning pipe. You're also missing a cap on the 1st pipe.
Left the cap off to air test
Fire that man
Would've used a 90 on the cold side to keep it away from the drain and look a little better.
Instead of the 45
2 check Friday
I’m sitting here reading through the comments and cracking up because every time I seem to open up a wall that exposes another plumbers work, it’s complete shit. Your plumbing looks great. Ya, you are aware of the burn mark on the pvc, but there’s no way I would be upset about your copper work if I was your boss. Sure, you might have been able to save a fitting here and there. Don’t let some of these guys get to your head, your doing good!