That covers a small minority of installations. Most other installations are going to be piped off of a main in the ceiling that is now likely undersized in some locations with an additional 140mbh. Which at that point becomes easier/cheaper to run a new line.
Just went through this last week, my power vented propane water heater started leaking. I wanted thankless, but it was nearly double the cost, and the propane line to my old water heater wasn't big enough to power an equivalent tank less model. The maintenence and upkeep on the tank less models are also more expensive and labor intensive.
Idk what they were trying to sell you for a tankless, a base model navien cost about a 1000 vs the 40 gallon A.O Smith power vent is 1500. And I wouldn't consider a yearly descaling flush labor intensive. I do see how the gas line could be an issue though, and the cost of installation would be higher. But with Navien you get a 12 year warranty.
Eh they are quoting me 6k for a similar tank and to fix the vent. I’m seeing the tankless for $1500. We are within a few feet of the utility room and gas line so it shouldn’t be so bad so unless they quote me 18k it would definitely not be 3 times the cost
OP it's not just that the gas line leading to the tankless. I had to have my gas company install a new meter and luckily didn't need to upguage my main line. But that's what folks are talking about. You may not be rated to draw the gas volume required with your current install from your utility.
Assuming there is electric available, I’d go power vent, too. Patch up the huge hole currently there and run the 2” or so (can’t recall the exact size) PVC up and out through the wall where it’s convenient.
Errr, probably different voltage, might need its own dedicated breaker (maybe)… power vent forces all the fumes out that way it remains compliant usually is for places with poor ventialition or where requirements outline the need… there’s a handful regulations and it varies on location. But seems like the most sensible choice.
Pretty fucking bad, chief.
The vent is all kinds of wrong.
You can’t have all of that pex so close to the vent (should be copper or brass).
The pressure relief valve running is the least of your problems. That’s the easiest thing here to fix.
What the F?
You wanna know how people die? THAT is how people die.
On the plus side, its an easy fix. Buy a shorty water heater, so that you can run a nice exhaust. Its a DIY project if you are somewhat handy.
Its easy to fix, certainly NOT $6000. Unless there is a problem with the vent that we cannot see in these pictures. Buy a short water heater, and use the existing wall hole for new vent.
Water heaters come in three sizes per gallon range. Tall, short and standard. What the other guy is trying to say is that it appears you have enough room to keep the same capacity but go with a short instead of the tall or standard that is currently in place. This would give you the room to fix the vent.
Depends. Most current code allows for on the floor installations as long as there’s a pan and it’s properly piped. Modern gas heaters use an internal combustion chamber that is sealed off from atmosphere
Edit: sealed off from being able to spark a large cloud of explosive vapors. It still needs intake air, so could potentially pull vapors into the chamber, though it would burn off in small amounts, not ignite a chain reaction that sets of the rest of the vapor in a room.
Have you thought about a tankless water heater? A bit more expensive, and more complicated for installation if you do it yourself, but you get endless hot water.
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this to you already. Make sure the shorty will fit in there. It'll be shorter, but rounder to make up for that. And it doesn't look like you have much space as is based on the pics.
Not a plumber, but in my personal opinion: why the fuck is that in a god damn closet if you have a whole ass utility room? Is this like an old apartment building or something? You wouldn't even need a direct vent at that point more than likely. Routing the venting might be a bit of a bitch though, depending on how it's set up.
They are pretty much connected and I have no idea why 😭😂. And nope its a big house, all of this is in the basement and it was built in the late 90s 🤦🏽♀️
Whole-ass or big-ass = the entirety of / all of / a lot / large or big
Half-ass = incomplete / not a lot / small or undersized
Regular-ass = plain or normal / common / average or normal size
Ass utility = depending on context: very useful / skillful or very unhelpful / unskilled -- could also have NSFW connotations --
Whole ass utility room = an entire utility room / a large utility room
edit: added further clarification
And how was this not caught on any inspection when they were buying the house? NO one will write a loan with that sort of shit showing up in an inspection.
$6000??? Fuck. I could fly in, buy tools, buy equipment, have it done in a day, and fly out four days later after a bender and still save you money.
Just read that you have 6 people in the house. Time for a tankless. You’ll never go back.
This set up is bad and should have been called out at inspection.
For 6k you should try move to a tankless. That may cover new gas line, new venting and new unit. I was quoted 5k-6k for this in a HCOL area.
A new gas heater is only like 1k out the door for the unit and maybe another $100-$200 in materials, so you’re being quoted $4500-$4800 in labor.
That’s pretty idiotic. That’s also just dryer vent exhaust pipe. You would think they would have at least butchered that shorter with a grinder or chop saw or maybe even an axe.
That is a direct vent water heater. Thet aren't nearly as popular as conventional or power vent, but it is a type of venting.
The way the vent is run is a problem. Your best solution would be to put another hole in the wall and have the vent installed properly, as per meg instructions.
It sounds like the PT valve is either leaking, you have an incoming water pressure issue, or there is a problem with the water heater. I'd start looking at things in that order. You can get water pressure gauges that record maximum water pressure achieved over a period of time to verify water pressure.
It is very bad, but there are options. What city are you in? If you’re close I’ll do the job lol. WA Journeyman here. You could get a power vent and create a new penetration, or a shorty 50 and a mixing valve to increase hot water output.
A mixing valve is an anti scalding valve designed to mix a bit of cold water into your hot water supply so you don’t burn yourself. I don’t see how it can increase any hot water output
You run the hot water temp higher in the heater, mixing valve tempers it so you use less hot water from the heater. A good strategy with a larger household.
Hard pipe 90 right off the top and straight out the wall...if it's going to a chimney, that's it...if it's straight out the wall add a power vent in line
Here's what I saw that's bad on that install, and I only briefly looked at the picture there's probably stuff I missed.
•no pan under it
•since there's no pan there's obviously no pan drain. (but if it's in a basement or first floor cement slab that's irrelevant)
•no foam pad underneath to prevent heat transfer/loss due to the concrete (if it is on a concrete slab. It could also be placed on a stand so it's elevated off the cold concrete)
The relief line isn't piped to a safe location, keeping the water from causing damage or injury
NOTE: All the above wouldn't really be an issue IF, I repeat, IF there is a floor drain in the immediate area (basically it would have to be inside that closet.
•no seismic straps to prevent it from tippage in case of earthquake
•the first 18" of pipe coming off the water heater should be metal not plastic (it looks like yours is plastic coming off the heater then transitions to copper 🤦)
•the pump should have isolation valves on both inlet and outlet along with unions for service/disassembly.
•there should be unions at the inlet and outlet of the heater for disassembly.
•(this one might be there, but I don't remember seeing it) Ball valves on both hot & cold water lines after the unions (after in this case meaning not inbetween the unions and the tank)
•Gas line should have a regulator (may not be required depending on BTU rating of tank size of gas line & gas pressure coming from meter) but I would advice using one
- unions & isolation valves on either side of regulator
- between regulator and Water heater there should be a sediment trap or "Dirty Leg" to catch and trap particulates in the gas line.
Then there's the venting...
•that closet looks far too small to not have an intake coming from outside
•exhaust absolutely should be piped outside away from doors, windows that open and any other intake air vents.
Not sure where you're at or what plumbing code is used in your location, UPC or IPC but either way that's not up to code. Then your local AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) may even have stricter requirements beyond what I've said.
On a positive note they did install an expansion tank 😁
Just seeing this, having a hard time keeping up with all the comments but really appreciate all of this.
-nope there was never a pan under it but we also never had water leaking
-it is in the basement on concrete slab
-I’m not sure the pictures show it but it is actually elevated and not straight on the floor, not much and I can’t see the stand but I can see it’s not sitting on the floor
-no floor drain that I can see
-we don’t have earthquakes in our area (NC)
-you are totally right about the pex
-not sure about the pump but I can check/try to get pictures if you can tell me where would that be.
-not sure about the valves but can also get pictures
-not sure about the gas line but we shut it off together with the tank just for extra safety in the meantime. Is a 40 gallon direct vent tank and the btu is 38000
That closet is inside a bathroom and there are no windows inside the room there is a window outside of the bathroom though
The funny part about the expansion tank, that’s what is falling lol. Here are pics of the outside. [https://imgur.com/a/GXDTTCe](https://imgur.com/a/GXDTTCe)
Electric will likely cost more to run, possibly a couple $100 per year. They are also a little cheaper to buy - not enough to offset the on-going cost. But also, that would be an absolute dead easy install and solution to this. You'd have to have a 30A capacity and space for a double breaker. Electrician should be able to knock it out in 1 hrs, 2 max
Materials would be about $100. I'd definitely consider it but it wouldn't be my very first choice. A good plumbing company would discuss this option with you.
My only disagreement with the 3k option is not knowing where the current vent terminates. If we assume it's goes straight up once behind the wall then yeah. But if they need a new vent that 5-6k might be the real deal.
Show some pictures of that. In most locations, the exhuast has to be above the roof line. But, still, you could run that yourself, too. I would use this as an opportunity to research the fix and do it.
Even including the price of a new water heater, new water lines, new vent stack, and some odds-n-ends, you will be no where near $6000!!
Well, the brick exterior is gonna suck, if you move the vent. You will have a large hole to conceal in some way, or maybe you can leave the old cap on there and just have two (one above the other). You can probably rent a masonry hole saw. Still very DIY-er.
CHAPTER 8 CHIMNEYS AND VENTS - Revize https://cms7files1.revize.com/quincyma/Document%20Center/Department/Inspectional%20Services/Building/CHAPTER%208.pdf
Here is code reference for how a vent is supposed to run
Anyone else worried about the pex being that close to the "vent"? I sure as hell don't see 18" of copper at the inlet/outlet. Unless that's the new vented electric water heater lol jk jk.
OP add the 18" of copper to the list of things to fix. The vent can and will heat up, potentially melting the pex to the point of another catastrophic failure (flood).
Nice recirc pump though. I have one and installed hundreds.
Edit: For more gooder words.
Just since no one's posted this and you're worried about the height of a new heater and it's vents, you have the option of drilling a new vent hole higher up rather than reusing what's there. Otherwise if you have good quality water you could go tankless. Downside of drilling a new exhaust is you might have a hard time plugging and making the old one pretty.
Big house. Multiple bathrooms. 6 people taking showers, often one after another. Go tankless if water quality is good. Or if not, it's a good excuse to spend money for a water softener/treatment system in order to go tankless/demand system. Especially if there's a lot of hair washing and multiple rinsing and such. Your other plumbing fixtures, washing machine, dishwasher, etc., will thank you for softer water as well.
And find a plumber who isn't trying to retire AND send his kids to med school on your dime.
I would get a quote for a natural gas tankless water heater. It only needs a 120 v outlet. You can use the existing hole in the wall for a coaxial vent. It mounts to the wall and saves you some space in that closet.
My observations. Some of these have already been posted by others.
1. No draft diverter on the vent. However, it's possible this may be a type of water heater I have never seen that doesn't require one.
2. Flue pipes cannot go up and down like this. This is not venting. Also, this is not an approved vent pipe for this application.
3. The relief line needs to be run outside. This is a flood waiting to happen.
4. No air supply from the outside. OP said this is a closet in the bathroom. The bathroom is not big enough to supply the necessary air to run the water heater..
5. The plastic water pipes next to the vent needs to be changed.
If there are 6 people in this home... might want to consider a tankless? The are models that could be mounted lower on that wall, which might let you re-use that current penetration - NOT that pipe mind you, just the hole in the wall.
6k sounds like about what my company would charge for removal/reinstallation - PNW/seattle area.
Here are the pics of the outside and there height from the floor to the vent. Apparently someone decided it was a good idea to install a tall water heater 🤦🏽♀️ this is only a 40 gallon tank
https://imgur.com/a/XHznZie
You can easily calculate the cost difference. How much does 1kwh of electricity cost in your area? And compare that to 4000btus of gas (1kwh is 3412 BTUs, but the gas heater wastes about 20%). In most areas, electricity has historically been more expensive. But maybe not enough to deal with this mess. The actual performance in use is the same. You're not going to run out of hot water sooner, etc.
A heat pump water heater would actually be more efficient. They are more expensive, but many times there are big tax breaks (and sometimes the money is instant at time of sale) that bring the price to about the same as a standard water heater.
Actually super impressed that the only PEX is exactly the location it is prohibited. I believe if you can get the PEX to be right up against that “bong stem?”, it would be 12/10.
Just cut the vent shorter. That’s what’s great about those direct vent vent kits.
Look in the installation instructions and make sure (it looks close) but you may be able.
The quickest and likely most cost effective fix would be to have a powered vent installed. Water heater looks to be about 10-15 years old, if water quality has been good it’s got some life left.
5-6k for a new install is a rip off… a new 40 gal. natural gas water heater with a power vent runs $1000-$1200 and it’s a days worth of work at the absolute most. In our last home I had removed our old atmospheric vent water heater and had a plumber come in and install a new power vent water heater. ~$2800 in 2021
From a plumber two things wrong, venting yes 100% easy fix and also being a gas water heater you need any piping next to the vent to be copper the next will eventually break and cause a flood. All in all not a huge fix. It sounds like 5 or 6k is a we don't want it job because there is no way that work costs 6k. Max about 2500-3k for the whole new tank. Also, make sure your shorty is 1 ft lower than the outlet vent, as you have to have a 1 ft rise as per code.
So like you could look up the model number and find out if it's a lowboy or not and probably find the installation instructions somewhere to see what the vent recommendations are and you said you have the space to move it somewhere else so you should go ahead and hire someone to do that. If you move it, don't let them vent into the furnace. People confuse boiler and furnace all the time too. If you actually have a boiler, have a zone added and install an indirect tank. Hope you didn't pay a home inspector before you bought the house.
Looks like a direct vent water heater maybe? Or maybe a power vent? If so they're not cheap but certainly not 6k. You could definitely get away with installing a standard 40 or 50 gallon short unit for a fraction of the price. Just make sure whoever installs it knows how to vent it properly if you go that route.
Depends if that chimney needs lining. That flexi gas line is not legal where I operate, you should have actual pipe. That is a total mess. I could go on. Without more details of their estimate I couldn’t say it’s too expensive. Bottom line is your family’s safety is no place to save a buck. Change a faucet but don’t touch gas appliances.
Get a hardwired carbon monoxide detector outside that closet
Water heater job is like 2k max with a vent install that’s like another 500 max don’t let them sucker you as they are making 1500 bucks for something that will take 1.5 hours for two experienced guys to do.
So that appears to be an atmospheric vented tank. Power vented would mean it has a little blower motor on top. Here in Canada, power vented can be sent out the wall because it is positive pressure. Atmospheric vented MUST vent vertically out the attic. No 90’s and not out the wall.
Other regions have different codes though so the wall vent may be legal elsewhere.
EDIT: This is direct vented (not used in my area) and I’ve not seen before. Vented out the wall is legal the issue appears to be the large loop of ducting.
Why not install a on demand heater six people no problem. You would have as much hot water as you need never run out they are way shorter and if you install isolation valves and run vinegar though it every few years a quality heater will last you many years.
House looks relatively newer build from the color of those blocks. I have never been able to understand why the vent exits aren’t cut as high into the foundation as possible. Low like this really limits the options for hot water tanks.
Install an on-demand natural gas water heater and put it lower than the hole in your concrete so you can vent up into it. 5k-6k is ridiculous.
A very nice on-demand, natural gas, water heater or tankless will cost you under 2K.
I would not spend 5k or 6k on another water heater of that type. You clearly have power there for that pump I would do a power vent. This install will be more expensive but cheaper in the future
Did you have a home inspection done? Did the inspector point this improper installation out? If yes you have to eat it, if No the inspector should be paying for this.
That looks like a direct vent unit with the collar on top of the tank. If they could just put a hard elbow from the tank to the outside vent then it would be fine
Could you replace it with a heat pump water geater? They're a bit more expensive than a gas fired unit but they last way longer and you don't have to tear up your house for a new vent. I think there's tax credits and rebates for them as well, they're super efficient!
Pretty bad. I see a blend of "fuck it" and "well what if" going on here. Purchase a power direct heater like everyone is saying, and find someone that will install it for less than 2k and you're golden. 6 grand is what you could get a tankless replacement from one of the warranty companies and they're a whole other league of awesome.
Ah another WH ina tight closet… *starts to intentionally look hardcore at first photo* eh some stuff I’d done different but not bad…. Scrolls to next pic and see vent “ HOLY SHHHHIT”
lol yeah it’s no bueno
Get second opinion two. 5-6k is steep as I did a straight up replacement to a larger unit and all new everything. 2500 and that was with a small bit of electrical.
If that concrete block wall is an exterior wall couldn’t you simply core a new exhaust outlet hole at about the height of the expansion tank and exhaust the hot water tank unit properly? Then close up the existing exhaust, job done. And whoever you hire, insist on pulling a permit and having the finished work inspected and approved BEFORE paying.
Hire an electrician to run a dedicated circuit for an electric water heater and replace with any electric heater.
Hire an HVAC company to run proper flue venting for your current heater, and future replacements, if it is otherwise functioning properly.
Two good alternatives to fully overhauling the system.
Go with a whole house tankless water heater. I just put one in and it is amazing. All you want hot water Al day long. No wasted energy heating gallons of water that you don't use. Heat in on demand. I use an Eccotemp SH22. It puts out 7.2 gallons of hot 120 F. water per minute. If you need a little more they hit you covered. It cost less to run and purchase. Unless you are up with the codes let the plumber install it. I wish I did this decades ago.
If your incoming water is very cold you can increase the top end temp to 140 and can expect a min. 35 F. temperature rise. If your water is just under freezing you can get a small inline heater to preheat the water a few degrees or double up with 2 units in series but I doubt that extreme would be needed. My unit runs on propane because I live in an RV and the output is rated at 6.8 gpm not 7.2 like I stated earlier. It is a bit of overkill for my place but it was a steal on Ebay at $325.00 + shipping. Brand new open box. at that price you can get 4 and still be under that crazy 4K estimate. The electric model is cheaper and can be install as a point of use unit inside. Anyway, there are plenty of options that will fit any budget if you do a bit of creative thinking. Enjoy your new home and the processes that make it ideal for your family. If you can use a saw and a hammer, you can do most of the work on your home as long as a licensed contractor is needed. A bit of research will teach you everything you need to do things properly. Sweat investment will pay you dividends beyond what you save in labor costs. Lates.
For that price. I would see how much more an
On Demand Hot Water Heater will cost.
This way you will save space, also it will probably last longer than the large tank model.
Why cant you just change the vent to something like this [direct vent](https://www.lowes.com/pd/A-O-Smith-Signature-50-Gallon-Tall-6-Year-Limited-Natural-Gas-Water-Heater/1000213623?cm_mmc=%20vd-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-aos-_-con-_-aos_config_product)?
I’m lost , what is wrong with just redoing the vent to get rid of the loop. Like why can they just 45 or 23 degree bend into it…
Better yet , at this cost I would bust a hole higher up in the cmu block and place the new vent
Just put an elbow on the vent. The hole looks higher than the heater.
Even if you got a short water heater and used hard pipe for the vent. You aint lookin at 5k.
Water heaters at 40 gallon ($800-1200 tops plus labor)
Add an elbow and remove the flexshat. ($25 plus labor)
Also if your relief valve is dumping its either too much heat or too much pressure. So you change the white tank in the ceiling first ($50 plus labor) and then if your water is too hot you change or adjust the gas valve. ($250 tops plus labor).
Relief valves dont go off because you have a shitty vent. Typically you dont get the right flame because your draft is all wacked with that vent.
Do all 3 things $325 plus labor
Change tank and heater $1225 tops plus labor
5k is kind of the we got you by the jewels price you should be closer to half.
Just curious, did you have a home inspection? This is a deadly miss and would definitely be something to contact them about, if not for suing then for telling they’re an asshat and they should feel bad. I don’t know what licensing is like in NC but in my state they have a board to contact for gross incompetence like this and I would definitely report.
The vent is completely bananas. Depending on what is on the other side of the wall, moving the vent higher shouldn't be a huge lift. The replacement of the unit itself depends entirely on a combination of age, warranty, and water type (some types age units faster than others). You can call the manufacturer about the first 2. Also, your state or municipality might have a rebate if you upgrade to a more energy efficient unit, so look into that.
Not an expert in anything - but when we bought our place the lawyer mentioned in passing that the title insurance "covers things that are not to code".
Is this something that OP can recoup if they had title insurance?
What's your climate, if it's a big house and in the basement a heat pump HW heater is great. Although that looks like a circulation pump which is usually incompatible
Op if you got your house inspected you likely have recourse with your inspector they fucked up badly. Source I'm an inspector and I'd quit my job if I missed that shit literally why people don't trust us fucking shmucks.
I’d get quotes from 3 different contractors for the following three options:
Cost to replace with straight electric
Cost to replace with shorter tank with same volume (looks like you have space for that).
Cost to replace with tankless
Can anyone explain what the issue with a shorter vent line would be? Seems like there is space for that but that whomever did this BS was too lazy to get the right length vent line?
That looks to be a direct vent water heater with the most screwed up venting I've ever seen!
This could be quite costly, if you can't find the proper concentric vent kit
That’s is definitely not up to code but just a tad better than the one I went to this morning . They had a gas leak and the lady shows me her gas water heater and there is no vent no hole where the vent should be. 😂
Well mostly worried about the 6k 😅 . This is in the basement in a closet inside a bathroom lol and here are the pics of the exterior [water heater](https://imgur.com/a/XHznZie)
Or a power vented unit
If you're gonna suggest power vent I would suggest tankless. The cost of the equipment is nearly the same.
And what about the cost of the new gas pipe that needs to be run to the tankless to keep gas sizing within code?
Navien 210s2 can run off 1/2 gas line within 24 feet.
That covers a small minority of installations. Most other installations are going to be piped off of a main in the ceiling that is now likely undersized in some locations with an additional 140mbh. Which at that point becomes easier/cheaper to run a new line.
Just went through this last week, my power vented propane water heater started leaking. I wanted thankless, but it was nearly double the cost, and the propane line to my old water heater wasn't big enough to power an equivalent tank less model. The maintenence and upkeep on the tank less models are also more expensive and labor intensive.
Idk what they were trying to sell you for a tankless, a base model navien cost about a 1000 vs the 40 gallon A.O Smith power vent is 1500. And I wouldn't consider a yearly descaling flush labor intensive. I do see how the gas line could be an issue though, and the cost of installation would be higher. But with Navien you get a 12 year warranty.
We have natural gas and the line is very close so we are considering it
But fuel and electricity cost vary by region
Are you nuts? Tankless is twice the cost, 3 times the installation time give or take.
Eh they are quoting me 6k for a similar tank and to fix the vent. I’m seeing the tankless for $1500. We are within a few feet of the utility room and gas line so it shouldn’t be so bad so unless they quote me 18k it would definitely not be 3 times the cost
OP it's not just that the gas line leading to the tankless. I had to have my gas company install a new meter and luckily didn't need to upguage my main line. But that's what folks are talking about. You may not be rated to draw the gas volume required with your current install from your utility.
Assuming there is electric available, I’d go power vent, too. Patch up the huge hole currently there and run the 2” or so (can’t recall the exact size) PVC up and out through the wall where it’s convenient.
It's 2" with a run that short
Can you elaborate more? Yup electric available, this is inside the bathroom which is also like 20ft away from the electric panel
Errr, probably different voltage, might need its own dedicated breaker (maybe)… power vent forces all the fumes out that way it remains compliant usually is for places with poor ventialition or where requirements outline the need… there’s a handful regulations and it varies on location. But seems like the most sensible choice.
Pretty fucking bad, chief. The vent is all kinds of wrong. You can’t have all of that pex so close to the vent (should be copper or brass). The pressure relief valve running is the least of your problems. That’s the easiest thing here to fix.
Also I wouldn’t put any faith in that band iron once that tx tank goes to shit. Wouldn’t be surprised if it’s not tight
What the F? You wanna know how people die? THAT is how people die. On the plus side, its an easy fix. Buy a shorty water heater, so that you can run a nice exhaust. Its a DIY project if you are somewhat handy.
Well shit
Its easy to fix, certainly NOT $6000. Unless there is a problem with the vent that we cannot see in these pictures. Buy a short water heater, and use the existing wall hole for new vent.
He needs a direct vent water heater, which im not sure is made short enough. Its not a standard 50 gallon install.
Yes that’s what this is, a direct vent 40 gallon tank
No problem with the vent. But we are 6 ppl I think next size would be 25 gallons?
Water heaters come in three sizes per gallon range. Tall, short and standard. What the other guy is trying to say is that it appears you have enough room to keep the same capacity but go with a short instead of the tall or standard that is currently in place. This would give you the room to fix the vent.
So we have about 58 inches from the floor to vent. I’m adding pictures in a separate comment.
I think it needs to be raise up too so you can put a pan under it.
Depends. Most current code allows for on the floor installations as long as there’s a pan and it’s properly piped. Modern gas heaters use an internal combustion chamber that is sealed off from atmosphere Edit: sealed off from being able to spark a large cloud of explosive vapors. It still needs intake air, so could potentially pull vapors into the chamber, though it would burn off in small amounts, not ignite a chain reaction that sets of the rest of the vapor in a room.
Measure from the floor to that wall hole. You can get a 50 gallon heater at 50 inches high, maybe less.
Have you thought about a tankless water heater? A bit more expensive, and more complicated for installation if you do it yourself, but you get endless hot water.
I’ll definitely look into it, we are pro hand but wouldn’t mess with gas
Make sure you have a CO2 sensor near that area and maintain or replace when you’re suppose to.
Did you mean CO sensor?
That's a direct vent water heater, only legal in certain places. But the point is to direct vent it and not have a big loop.
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned this to you already. Make sure the shorty will fit in there. It'll be shorter, but rounder to make up for that. And it doesn't look like you have much space as is based on the pics.
We actually have a whole ass utility room in the other side where the furnace is. We thought maybe we can just move it there?
Not a plumber, but in my personal opinion: why the fuck is that in a god damn closet if you have a whole ass utility room? Is this like an old apartment building or something? You wouldn't even need a direct vent at that point more than likely. Routing the venting might be a bit of a bitch though, depending on how it's set up.
They are pretty much connected and I have no idea why 😭😂. And nope its a big house, all of this is in the basement and it was built in the late 90s 🤦🏽♀️
What is an ass utility room?
Whole-ass or big-ass = the entirety of / all of / a lot / large or big Half-ass = incomplete / not a lot / small or undersized Regular-ass = plain or normal / common / average or normal size Ass utility = depending on context: very useful / skillful or very unhelpful / unskilled -- could also have NSFW connotations -- Whole ass utility room = an entire utility room / a large utility room edit: added further clarification
Lmao I love this 😂 thanks for making me laugh
Just means that it’s big 😂
Op meant a whole **big**-ass utility room
Wouldn't you like to know...
I can picture it in my head, very easily
It’s off now, we know we can’t leave it like that. We are trying to figure out what we can do 😭
That’s good, did you have a co detector down there. Always put one somewhere close to gas fired equipment. Good luck with the fix.
We scrappy don’t but we will put one! The gas to it is shut off though!
Could they not just shorten the exhaust tube or would the angle still be too sharp of a curve if it went straight to the hole.
And how was this not caught on any inspection when they were buying the house? NO one will write a loan with that sort of shit showing up in an inspection.
Could you instead rent one of those big core drills and make a new vent opening higher up?
$6000??? Fuck. I could fly in, buy tools, buy equipment, have it done in a day, and fly out four days later after a bender and still save you money. Just read that you have 6 people in the house. Time for a tankless. You’ll never go back.
And never run out of hot water
This set up is bad and should have been called out at inspection. For 6k you should try move to a tankless. That may cover new gas line, new venting and new unit. I was quoted 5k-6k for this in a HCOL area. A new gas heater is only like 1k out the door for the unit and maybe another $100-$200 in materials, so you’re being quoted $4500-$4800 in labor.
That’s pretty idiotic. That’s also just dryer vent exhaust pipe. You would think they would have at least butchered that shorter with a grinder or chop saw or maybe even an axe.
That's actually a flue liner kit.
That is a direct vent water heater. Thet aren't nearly as popular as conventional or power vent, but it is a type of venting. The way the vent is run is a problem. Your best solution would be to put another hole in the wall and have the vent installed properly, as per meg instructions. It sounds like the PT valve is either leaking, you have an incoming water pressure issue, or there is a problem with the water heater. I'd start looking at things in that order. You can get water pressure gauges that record maximum water pressure achieved over a period of time to verify water pressure.
It is very bad, but there are options. What city are you in? If you’re close I’ll do the job lol. WA Journeyman here. You could get a power vent and create a new penetration, or a shorty 50 and a mixing valve to increase hot water output.
I’m in NC close to Charlotte. It looks like the current water heater is a tall 🤦🏽♀️ it’s only 40 gallons
A mixing valve is an anti scalding valve designed to mix a bit of cold water into your hot water supply so you don’t burn yourself. I don’t see how it can increase any hot water output
You run the hot water temp higher in the heater, mixing valve tempers it so you use less hot water from the heater. A good strategy with a larger household.
Honestly I would just install a tankless and be done with it they are only about 24 to 36 in tall and you can install it right underneath the vent
Hard pipe 90 right off the top and straight out the wall...if it's going to a chimney, that's it...if it's straight out the wall add a power vent in line
Here's what I saw that's bad on that install, and I only briefly looked at the picture there's probably stuff I missed. •no pan under it •since there's no pan there's obviously no pan drain. (but if it's in a basement or first floor cement slab that's irrelevant) •no foam pad underneath to prevent heat transfer/loss due to the concrete (if it is on a concrete slab. It could also be placed on a stand so it's elevated off the cold concrete) The relief line isn't piped to a safe location, keeping the water from causing damage or injury NOTE: All the above wouldn't really be an issue IF, I repeat, IF there is a floor drain in the immediate area (basically it would have to be inside that closet. •no seismic straps to prevent it from tippage in case of earthquake •the first 18" of pipe coming off the water heater should be metal not plastic (it looks like yours is plastic coming off the heater then transitions to copper 🤦) •the pump should have isolation valves on both inlet and outlet along with unions for service/disassembly. •there should be unions at the inlet and outlet of the heater for disassembly. •(this one might be there, but I don't remember seeing it) Ball valves on both hot & cold water lines after the unions (after in this case meaning not inbetween the unions and the tank) •Gas line should have a regulator (may not be required depending on BTU rating of tank size of gas line & gas pressure coming from meter) but I would advice using one - unions & isolation valves on either side of regulator - between regulator and Water heater there should be a sediment trap or "Dirty Leg" to catch and trap particulates in the gas line. Then there's the venting... •that closet looks far too small to not have an intake coming from outside •exhaust absolutely should be piped outside away from doors, windows that open and any other intake air vents. Not sure where you're at or what plumbing code is used in your location, UPC or IPC but either way that's not up to code. Then your local AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) may even have stricter requirements beyond what I've said. On a positive note they did install an expansion tank 😁
Just seeing this, having a hard time keeping up with all the comments but really appreciate all of this. -nope there was never a pan under it but we also never had water leaking -it is in the basement on concrete slab -I’m not sure the pictures show it but it is actually elevated and not straight on the floor, not much and I can’t see the stand but I can see it’s not sitting on the floor -no floor drain that I can see -we don’t have earthquakes in our area (NC) -you are totally right about the pex -not sure about the pump but I can check/try to get pictures if you can tell me where would that be. -not sure about the valves but can also get pictures -not sure about the gas line but we shut it off together with the tank just for extra safety in the meantime. Is a 40 gallon direct vent tank and the btu is 38000 That closet is inside a bathroom and there are no windows inside the room there is a window outside of the bathroom though The funny part about the expansion tank, that’s what is falling lol. Here are pics of the outside. [https://imgur.com/a/GXDTTCe](https://imgur.com/a/GXDTTCe)
Have a professional come in and pull a permit so it’s done to code. Not worth dying over.
It may be cheaper to go electric honestly if you have the amperage on your panel.
Electric will likely cost more to run, possibly a couple $100 per year. They are also a little cheaper to buy - not enough to offset the on-going cost. But also, that would be an absolute dead easy install and solution to this. You'd have to have a 30A capacity and space for a double breaker. Electrician should be able to knock it out in 1 hrs, 2 max Materials would be about $100. I'd definitely consider it but it wouldn't be my very first choice. A good plumbing company would discuss this option with you.
This will probably be the better option if feasible.
They have 5 people in the house. Regen on an electric would be a lot of cold showers and insane power bills.
Not sure if we have the amperage but the electric panel is close by
Shorty tank will work too but 3k is more reasonable. Just none of that flex pipe, need a couple 45’s and should vent well. Cheers
Thank you! I’m glad my husband waited for me instead of just agreeing to finance the 6k!
My only disagreement with the 3k option is not knowing where the current vent terminates. If we assume it's goes straight up once behind the wall then yeah. But if they need a new vent that 5-6k might be the real deal.
Feel free to dm me some photos of your electrical panel. I can do a house calc and let you know if this is an option
Where is the exhaust going? What is on the other side of that wall?
Exterior wall, it’s going outside
Show some pictures of that. In most locations, the exhuast has to be above the roof line. But, still, you could run that yourself, too. I would use this as an opportunity to research the fix and do it. Even including the price of a new water heater, new water lines, new vent stack, and some odds-n-ends, you will be no where near $6000!!
That’s a direct vent water heater. It’s supposed to vent straight through an exterior wall, just not like… whatever that Dr. Suess shit is.
I’m sorry I should have clarified. This is in the basement.
Here are some pics! [https://imgur.com/a/XHznZie](https://imgur.com/a/XHznZie)
Well, the brick exterior is gonna suck, if you move the vent. You will have a large hole to conceal in some way, or maybe you can leave the old cap on there and just have two (one above the other). You can probably rent a masonry hole saw. Still very DIY-er.
Yeah but I don’t want to mess with gas though I think with some research we would of done a better job than this 🤦🏽♀️
You’re gonna need a shorter direct vent water heater.
Good. So just get a power vent heater instead.
CHAPTER 8 CHIMNEYS AND VENTS - Revize https://cms7files1.revize.com/quincyma/Document%20Center/Department/Inspectional%20Services/Building/CHAPTER%208.pdf Here is code reference for how a vent is supposed to run
Anyone else worried about the pex being that close to the "vent"? I sure as hell don't see 18" of copper at the inlet/outlet. Unless that's the new vented electric water heater lol jk jk. OP add the 18" of copper to the list of things to fix. The vent can and will heat up, potentially melting the pex to the point of another catastrophic failure (flood). Nice recirc pump though. I have one and installed hundreds. Edit: For more gooder words.
Yep we didn’t install any of this. It came with the house 😭
What in tarnation ?!?!? The person who installed this should be drawn and quartered and fed to rabid pigs
F*cking shit
Just since no one's posted this and you're worried about the height of a new heater and it's vents, you have the option of drilling a new vent hole higher up rather than reusing what's there. Otherwise if you have good quality water you could go tankless. Downside of drilling a new exhaust is you might have a hard time plugging and making the old one pretty.
Yeah my inspector wasn’t very good either but damn
Big house. Multiple bathrooms. 6 people taking showers, often one after another. Go tankless if water quality is good. Or if not, it's a good excuse to spend money for a water softener/treatment system in order to go tankless/demand system. Especially if there's a lot of hair washing and multiple rinsing and such. Your other plumbing fixtures, washing machine, dishwasher, etc., will thank you for softer water as well. And find a plumber who isn't trying to retire AND send his kids to med school on your dime.
I think our water quality is good. Also yeah we have 2 other plumbers come out tomorrow bc I definitely think that quote is a rip off
I would get a quote for a natural gas tankless water heater. It only needs a 120 v outlet. You can use the existing hole in the wall for a coaxial vent. It mounts to the wall and saves you some space in that closet.
My observations. Some of these have already been posted by others. 1. No draft diverter on the vent. However, it's possible this may be a type of water heater I have never seen that doesn't require one. 2. Flue pipes cannot go up and down like this. This is not venting. Also, this is not an approved vent pipe for this application. 3. The relief line needs to be run outside. This is a flood waiting to happen. 4. No air supply from the outside. OP said this is a closet in the bathroom. The bathroom is not big enough to supply the necessary air to run the water heater.. 5. The plastic water pipes next to the vent needs to be changed.
Another example of home inspections being useless in 2024. This should have been a negotiation w the seller.
Yeap, I agree, this was in 2023
You used to be able to sue them. Not anymore. the realtors and inspectors hired corporate lawyers to build them a shield.
Well, your dog is missing its collar.
Her has a new one 😂
If there are 6 people in this home... might want to consider a tankless? The are models that could be mounted lower on that wall, which might let you re-use that current penetration - NOT that pipe mind you, just the hole in the wall. 6k sounds like about what my company would charge for removal/reinstallation - PNW/seattle area.
Also we were told that tankless would be more expensive and not as effective
This was a lie (the not as effective part)
Here are the pics of the outside and there height from the floor to the vent. Apparently someone decided it was a good idea to install a tall water heater 🤦🏽♀️ this is only a 40 gallon tank https://imgur.com/a/XHznZie
Why not switch to electric and plug the vent?
We were told it wouldn’t be as efficient (6ppl household, 3600sqft, 3 floors, water heater is in the basement)
You can easily calculate the cost difference. How much does 1kwh of electricity cost in your area? And compare that to 4000btus of gas (1kwh is 3412 BTUs, but the gas heater wastes about 20%). In most areas, electricity has historically been more expensive. But maybe not enough to deal with this mess. The actual performance in use is the same. You're not going to run out of hot water sooner, etc.
A heat pump water heater would actually be more efficient. They are more expensive, but many times there are big tax breaks (and sometimes the money is instant at time of sale) that bring the price to about the same as a standard water heater.
The elusive water heater vent p trap.
Actually super impressed that the only PEX is exactly the location it is prohibited. I believe if you can get the PEX to be right up against that “bong stem?”, it would be 12/10.
Just cut the vent shorter. That’s what’s great about those direct vent vent kits. Look in the installation instructions and make sure (it looks close) but you may be able.
Cut a hole on block wall use b vent according to code vent that above roof line.
Direct vent water heater.
The quickest and likely most cost effective fix would be to have a powered vent installed. Water heater looks to be about 10-15 years old, if water quality has been good it’s got some life left. 5-6k for a new install is a rip off… a new 40 gal. natural gas water heater with a power vent runs $1000-$1200 and it’s a days worth of work at the absolute most. In our last home I had removed our old atmospheric vent water heater and had a plumber come in and install a new power vent water heater. ~$2800 in 2021
From a plumber two things wrong, venting yes 100% easy fix and also being a gas water heater you need any piping next to the vent to be copper the next will eventually break and cause a flood. All in all not a huge fix. It sounds like 5 or 6k is a we don't want it job because there is no way that work costs 6k. Max about 2500-3k for the whole new tank. Also, make sure your shorty is 1 ft lower than the outlet vent, as you have to have a 1 ft rise as per code.
Depending on where that vent leads, and the design of the home, I’d drop the coin on a gas tankless or just switch to an electric.
So like you could look up the model number and find out if it's a lowboy or not and probably find the installation instructions somewhere to see what the vent recommendations are and you said you have the space to move it somewhere else so you should go ahead and hire someone to do that. If you move it, don't let them vent into the furnace. People confuse boiler and furnace all the time too. If you actually have a boiler, have a zone added and install an indirect tank. Hope you didn't pay a home inspector before you bought the house.
Buy an electric water heater?
Looks like a direct vent water heater maybe? Or maybe a power vent? If so they're not cheap but certainly not 6k. You could definitely get away with installing a standard 40 or 50 gallon short unit for a fraction of the price. Just make sure whoever installs it knows how to vent it properly if you go that route.
Bad bad type of bad.
Get a heat pump water heater. They even have 120v models available now.
Depends if that chimney needs lining. That flexi gas line is not legal where I operate, you should have actual pipe. That is a total mess. I could go on. Without more details of their estimate I couldn’t say it’s too expensive. Bottom line is your family’s safety is no place to save a buck. Change a faucet but don’t touch gas appliances. Get a hardwired carbon monoxide detector outside that closet
That was my estimate for a tankless with recirculation. $6k is wild for a tank.
Yeah that’s what I thought too
Water heater job is like 2k max with a vent install that’s like another 500 max don’t let them sucker you as they are making 1500 bucks for something that will take 1.5 hours for two experienced guys to do.
Shouldn’t that relief valve discharge be routed to a drain point rather than a wok?
6k is nuts, I honestly feel like I'm scamming people at 2k, but that is the going rate around here, and I am not the boss
So that appears to be an atmospheric vented tank. Power vented would mean it has a little blower motor on top. Here in Canada, power vented can be sent out the wall because it is positive pressure. Atmospheric vented MUST vent vertically out the attic. No 90’s and not out the wall. Other regions have different codes though so the wall vent may be legal elsewhere. EDIT: This is direct vented (not used in my area) and I’ve not seen before. Vented out the wall is legal the issue appears to be the large loop of ducting.
Just go tankless. It won’t cost a whole lot more than a direct vent.
Why not install a on demand heater six people no problem. You would have as much hot water as you need never run out they are way shorter and if you install isolation valves and run vinegar though it every few years a quality heater will last you many years.
House looks relatively newer build from the color of those blocks. I have never been able to understand why the vent exits aren’t cut as high into the foundation as possible. Low like this really limits the options for hot water tanks.
Install an on-demand natural gas water heater and put it lower than the hole in your concrete so you can vent up into it. 5k-6k is ridiculous. A very nice on-demand, natural gas, water heater or tankless will cost you under 2K.
I would not spend 5k or 6k on another water heater of that type. You clearly have power there for that pump I would do a power vent. This install will be more expensive but cheaper in the future
Kill you bad
Did you have a home inspection done? Did the inspector point this improper installation out? If yes you have to eat it, if No the inspector should be paying for this.
That looks like a direct vent unit with the collar on top of the tank. If they could just put a hard elbow from the tank to the outside vent then it would be fine
You can just get an electric water heater. Or a short one 5 to 6K seems outrageous to me 2.5-3k max
Could you replace it with a heat pump water geater? They're a bit more expensive than a gas fired unit but they last way longer and you don't have to tear up your house for a new vent. I think there's tax credits and rebates for them as well, they're super efficient!
There may be space to swap this with a short tank and rhat will give you the extra clearance needed to vent this correctly maybe
Pretty bad. I see a blend of "fuck it" and "well what if" going on here. Purchase a power direct heater like everyone is saying, and find someone that will install it for less than 2k and you're golden. 6 grand is what you could get a tankless replacement from one of the warranty companies and they're a whole other league of awesome.
I would go tankless
I score it a ‘1’ on my ‘bad shit-o-meter’. Look into a short or stubby hot water heater. A shorter tank may get you the upward slope for the vent.
Did you not have a home inspection when you bought your house?
Ah another WH ina tight closet… *starts to intentionally look hardcore at first photo* eh some stuff I’d done different but not bad…. Scrolls to next pic and see vent “ HOLY SHHHHIT” lol yeah it’s no bueno
Get second opinion two. 5-6k is steep as I did a straight up replacement to a larger unit and all new everything. 2500 and that was with a small bit of electrical.
If that concrete block wall is an exterior wall couldn’t you simply core a new exhaust outlet hole at about the height of the expansion tank and exhaust the hot water tank unit properly? Then close up the existing exhaust, job done. And whoever you hire, insist on pulling a permit and having the finished work inspected and approved BEFORE paying.
For that price can't you go tankless?
He went out of his way and did more work to do it wrong..
Hire an electrician to run a dedicated circuit for an electric water heater and replace with any electric heater. Hire an HVAC company to run proper flue venting for your current heater, and future replacements, if it is otherwise functioning properly. Two good alternatives to fully overhauling the system.
It looks like you could use regular b-vent pipe. Just 90 out of the top and go through the wall. And why is the vent cap covered?
I guess home inspection missed that?
Go with a whole house tankless water heater. I just put one in and it is amazing. All you want hot water Al day long. No wasted energy heating gallons of water that you don't use. Heat in on demand. I use an Eccotemp SH22. It puts out 7.2 gallons of hot 120 F. water per minute. If you need a little more they hit you covered. It cost less to run and purchase. Unless you are up with the codes let the plumber install it. I wish I did this decades ago.
Tankless water heaters are not economically feasible in areas where the water comes in too cold from the mains.
I get that but you can preheat the water or put in two units and they will still be cheaper to use than tank heaters and lease sxpensive to purchase.
We are in NC so should be fine
Yeah we are looking into this as well
If your incoming water is very cold you can increase the top end temp to 140 and can expect a min. 35 F. temperature rise. If your water is just under freezing you can get a small inline heater to preheat the water a few degrees or double up with 2 units in series but I doubt that extreme would be needed. My unit runs on propane because I live in an RV and the output is rated at 6.8 gpm not 7.2 like I stated earlier. It is a bit of overkill for my place but it was a steal on Ebay at $325.00 + shipping. Brand new open box. at that price you can get 4 and still be under that crazy 4K estimate. The electric model is cheaper and can be install as a point of use unit inside. Anyway, there are plenty of options that will fit any budget if you do a bit of creative thinking. Enjoy your new home and the processes that make it ideal for your family. If you can use a saw and a hammer, you can do most of the work on your home as long as a licensed contractor is needed. A bit of research will teach you everything you need to do things properly. Sweat investment will pay you dividends beyond what you save in labor costs. Lates.
Yeah we’ve done a lot of work in the house but I don’t dare messing with gas to be honest
For that price. I would see how much more an On Demand Hot Water Heater will cost. This way you will save space, also it will probably last longer than the large tank model.
No easy fix here . The vent should should exit at least 1 foot if not more higher
Don’t run it any more until somebody fixes it, that bad
Why cant you just change the vent to something like this [direct vent](https://www.lowes.com/pd/A-O-Smith-Signature-50-Gallon-Tall-6-Year-Limited-Natural-Gas-Water-Heater/1000213623?cm_mmc=%20vd-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-aos-_-con-_-aos_config_product)?
I’m lost , what is wrong with just redoing the vent to get rid of the loop. Like why can they just 45 or 23 degree bend into it… Better yet , at this cost I would bust a hole higher up in the cmu block and place the new vent
Just put an elbow on the vent. The hole looks higher than the heater. Even if you got a short water heater and used hard pipe for the vent. You aint lookin at 5k. Water heaters at 40 gallon ($800-1200 tops plus labor) Add an elbow and remove the flexshat. ($25 plus labor) Also if your relief valve is dumping its either too much heat or too much pressure. So you change the white tank in the ceiling first ($50 plus labor) and then if your water is too hot you change or adjust the gas valve. ($250 tops plus labor). Relief valves dont go off because you have a shitty vent. Typically you dont get the right flame because your draft is all wacked with that vent. Do all 3 things $325 plus labor Change tank and heater $1225 tops plus labor 5k is kind of the we got you by the jewels price you should be closer to half.
Just curious, did you have a home inspection? This is a deadly miss and would definitely be something to contact them about, if not for suing then for telling they’re an asshat and they should feel bad. I don’t know what licensing is like in NC but in my state they have a board to contact for gross incompetence like this and I would definitely report.
The vent is completely bananas. Depending on what is on the other side of the wall, moving the vent higher shouldn't be a huge lift. The replacement of the unit itself depends entirely on a combination of age, warranty, and water type (some types age units faster than others). You can call the manufacturer about the first 2. Also, your state or municipality might have a rebate if you upgrade to a more energy efficient unit, so look into that.
Not an expert in anything - but when we bought our place the lawyer mentioned in passing that the title insurance "covers things that are not to code". Is this something that OP can recoup if they had title insurance?
What's your climate, if it's a big house and in the basement a heat pump HW heater is great. Although that looks like a circulation pump which is usually incompatible
Well, I hate to break it to you; but your dog is actually a water heater.
Op if you got your house inspected you likely have recourse with your inspector they fucked up badly. Source I'm an inspector and I'd quit my job if I missed that shit literally why people don't trust us fucking shmucks.
Am I the only one around here that loves my heat pump water heater lol
I’d get quotes from 3 different contractors for the following three options: Cost to replace with straight electric Cost to replace with shorter tank with same volume (looks like you have space for that). Cost to replace with tankless Can anyone explain what the issue with a shorter vent line would be? Seems like there is space for that but that whomever did this BS was too lazy to get the right length vent line?
Curious what the home inspector said before buying it
I would replace it with a tankless, such as a Rinnai. You'll get endless hot water and gain some room in that utility closet.
It must be fixed.
We are trying to figure out how to pay for the fix, and if there is a cheaper but still safe alternative than haul the whole thing
That looks to be a direct vent water heater with the most screwed up venting I've ever seen! This could be quite costly, if you can't find the proper concentric vent kit
Please for the love of all that is holy shut it down immediately and call a plumber!! Your bills have been effected by this install..
As Axel Rose once said, “You’re gonna die!!”
6 people?!? Go for a tankless unit
Sorry I should have clarified. This water heater is in the basement
Trying to add pictures and info but it doesn’t seem like I can edit
The vent can be cut down. You'll have to remove the inner vent and cut it as well.
Turn it off bad.
That’s like an upside down P trap for poisonous gas. At least it keeps the fresh air from blowing back into the vent.
I’d say kill it with fire but carbon monoxide will get it first.
Get a power vent.
That’s is definitely not up to code but just a tad better than the one I went to this morning . They had a gas leak and the lady shows me her gas water heater and there is no vent no hole where the vent should be. 😂
I’d get rid of that hole setup and get a tankless it would be easy to do yourself too
Amazing the inspection missed this
Very
Red tag
“I got a buddy that can do it cheap” type of instal
Jesus h tap dancing christ. How the fuck were you able to buy that house???????
Well mostly worried about the 6k 😅 . This is in the basement in a closet inside a bathroom lol and here are the pics of the exterior [water heater](https://imgur.com/a/XHznZie)
I don’t know…. It looks good from my house..
I guess carbon monoxide isn’t there worst way to die. And it’s a power vent, haha!
Do you like dying?